Typical mistakes in the construction of brick walls. Overlapping and its types. Installation of ceilings Why blowing in brick cladding is needed

During construction residential buildings often use concrete plates overlap. These reinforced concrete products are used both for and in the construction of walls. They are made from high quality concrete using reinforced frame. The reliability and durability of buildings mainly depends on the quality of the materials used.

Floor slab structures

Overlapping with a monolithic slab

Is different reinforced strength, which allows them to be used in places with an increased risk of sagging. Maximum protection against various deformations, but poor sound insulation. It has a large weight, which is a significant disadvantage of this type during construction.

Hollow structures

The most popular, due to the lightening of the mass of the product. Due to the voids, these plates have low thermal conductivity and good sound insulation. Manufacturing costs are significantly lower than manufacturing costs monolithic slabs. They are often made of ribbed or cellular concrete.

Mostly made in fixed sizes. And when designing a building, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of standard manufactured plates. Depending on the requirements for future construction, the slabs are also classified by weight. Their average weight varies from 500 kg to 4 tons.

The use of concrete hollow-core slabs in the construction of the foundation has been carried out for quite a long time. But the installation of frost protection for floor slabs is not always thought out.

Damp and freezing walls are one of the most serious factors in the fragility of buildings.

The appearance of mold significantly affects the health of the inhabitants of the houses.

Wall freezing factors

Incorrect filling of joints between plates. Poorly filled joints lead to a violation of the heat-shielding properties of the floors. Increases the chance of cracking. Through them, the plate gains moisture.
Poor quality solution in the production of products. The choice of cheap or dilute solutions results in frequent moisture penetration. Usually they have a very loose structure and do not withstand pressure.
Errors in the design of the heating system. Poorly heated rooms are much more prone to frostbite on the walls. After the accumulation of moisture, they begin to freeze both from the outside and from inside.
Subcooling of metal reinforcing elements and anchors. When various cracks appear, moisture begins to get into the metal components of hollow-core slabs. As a result, corrosion may occur. The structure of such plates softens and is more prone to decay from low temperatures.
Exhaust pipes collect condensate. With weak traction, moisture accumulates inside exhaust pipes, which leads to their icing and a decrease in work efficiency. At the same time, poor air circulation contributes to the accumulation of unnecessary moisture.
Small wall thickness. The thickness of the walls for their use in climatic conditions this region.
Low thermal properties of the materials used. When choosing materials, the balance is generally outweighed in the direction of strength, while often, when installing insulation, the low level of thermal insulation is simply not taken into account.
Insufficient through ventilation. In poorly ventilated rooms, the outer walls freeze through much more, losing their heat-shielding properties. Unsatisfactory internal waterproofing between the wall and the insulation leads to freezing of the outer surface, and then to the destruction of the masonry.
Foundation with poor waterproofing, especially in houses without basements.
Violation of the vapor barrier structure in attic floors. Poorly executed thermal insulation transfers the performance of its functions to a cement screed. concrete surface collects moisture, accumulating condensate, and moisturizes the insulation. The heat-shielding material begins to lose its original properties, which are significantly reduced, as a result of which the floor slabs begin to freeze through. The insulation also increases its weight due to the accumulated fluid.
Frequently flooded basements.
The blind areas are incorrect or missing.
The vertical waterproofing of the basement walls is not done correctly. Low air circulation leads to mold and condensation.
Bad in the production process. The quality of concrete compaction determines the frost resistance and water tightness of the structure of manufactured hollow core slabs. A poorly compacted compound becomes too porous and the protection of the substrate is greatly reduced.
Installation of insufficient thickness of the finishing layer.

Saving on the finishing layer, as a result, you can get global destruction. When the air temperature fluctuates, the lining gradually crumbles, reducing the protection of the wall from getting wet and frost. And as a result, the fortress of the entire building is broken, increasing the chances of emergency situations.

Prevention measures

To protect floor slabs from freezing, you need to take the following measures:

Carefully and tightly fill the gap between the plates.
High-quality installation of sealing joints must be waterproof (due to sealing mastics) and heat-shielding (using insulation packages). With air protection, the distance between the plates is filled with sealing gaskets. Compression of the material of such gaskets should be at least 30-50%.
Monitor and check the ventilation of the building as often as possible.
Poor air circulation in the premises contributes to the long drying of heat-insulating layers, the accumulation excess moisture and mold growth. Heaving soil should not be allowed to freeze under the base of the foundation and the walls of the basement floor, and the air temperature should not be allowed to ground floor fall below zero.
If the building does not have a basement, then it is necessary to install horizontal waterproofing between the ground and the basement surface.
Increase the layer of thermal insulation on attic floors.
Maintain vents and drains in good condition. The reduction in the probability of freezing of hollow core slabs depends on the efficiency of their work.
For the first 3 years of operation of the building, it is necessary to clear the distance drainage systems at least twice a year, and thereafter once every three years.
On damp sections of the walls, carry out drying without starting their condition.
Try to reduce humidity in rooms with poor ventilation. In any room, the humidity of the air should not exceed 60%.

Ways to fix

Of course, it is always better to prevent a problem than to fix its consequences. But if the measures were not taken on time and freezing nevertheless began, you need to take up the correction of errors as soon as possible. There are a number various methods fixes troubles with freezing walls.

Depending on causes and locations

The appearance of dampness and black spots in the area top floors, as a rule, occurs if the installation of insulation of the attic floor is insufficiently or poorly performed. First of all, defects in the joints between the plates are eliminated, which reduces the appearance of moisture on the internal walls. Typically, expanded clay is used as insulation on attic floors. According to the norms, for its productive action, it must be at least 30 cm.

Be sure to check if there are any problems with the ventilation of the attic space. The lack of high-quality air exchange leads to the appearance of condensate and hypothermia of the floor slabs. Check for roof leaks.
Problems can also arise due to poor-quality sealing of seams in the walls and balcony slabs. Moisture can penetrate into the seams between the wall and the slabs, which contributes to damp spots. Dry the walls as soon as possible and close up any moisture ingress.

If the gap is not more than 8 cm, then you can use mounting foam. To use it, you must first clean the edges of the gap from concrete crumbs. Polyethylene and silicone surfaces require additional treatment with acetone. The hardening of the foam occurs during the day. Then the excess foam must be cut off, you can use a clerical knife, and the surface should be plastered, thereby closing the bridge of cold. If the gap at the junction is more than 8 cm, then you will have to use thick cement mortar.

Check the effectiveness of balcony drains. If the sealing of the joints of the seams is broken, it is best to carry it out again using newer and quality materials. The strength of the building structure largely depends on the quality of the filling of the seams. Proper sealing should be carried out only after careful preparation of the surface:

repair the outer surfaces of the wall panels;
dry all wet and damp areas;
remove any damaged sealant before applying a new coat.

In no case should mastic be allowed to be applied to wet and untreated areas. It is best to repair joints in positive and dry weather.
If an imbalance in the thermal protection of the walls is detected, insulation should be taken up due to their expansion.

Wall insulation options

For example, using a layer of brickwork, you can veneer outside walls. This can be done without special skills. For this you will need:

bricks;
level, tape measure and ordering, if the wall needs to be built high;
sand-cement mortar in a ratio of 4: 1 or adhesive mortar for masonry;
drill with mixer;
trowel and mortar container;
access to electricity.

You can also insulate the walls with stucco insulation on reinforcing mesh. To do this, with the help of dowels, the reinforcing mesh is mounted to the wall. The latter does not have to be metal. Plaster is applied between the wall and the mesh and on top. It can be a cement mortar, and a ready-made dry mix for wet rooms. they are more expensive, but serve much longer than usual, because they have special additives in their composition.

Another one of the most qualitative methods is mounting vapor barrier material and insulation on the inside concrete wall. Installation is carried out by installing a frame lined with tiled insulation. To make such a frame and fill the distance with insulation between the wall and finishing material, you can use various clamps and hardware. These can be mounting brackets, and plastic dowels, “fungi”, and glue, as in ready-made, and in the form of a dry mixture that requires preparation. After that, it is imperative to make the cladding with plaster or any other finishing material.

Materials for the frame and insulation:

metal profiles or wooden slats;
self-tapping screws for metal or wood;
sealant and polyurethane foam;
vapor barrier membrane or aluminium foil on isoplene;
sheet insulation, mineral or fiberglass wool;
dry mix for plaster.

Tools for mounting the frame and insulation:

grinder with circles for cutting metal or special scissors;
drill with mixer nozzle;
screwdriver or screwdriver;
tape measure, level and pencil;
spatulas and graters for grinding;
solution container.

Between the frame and the wall, you need to leave a place of about 50 mm and fill it with expanded clay. This material will perfectly absorb the remaining moisture from the wall and stop the appearance of mold. Thus, the wall thickness is increased by 150 mm. There are 80 mm foam blocks that successfully replace such frame structures. Installation is carried out on a conventional cement-sand mortar (1:4).

On especially cold and damp walls, you can install a system called "warm floor", or run along the perimeter warm plinth. This solution is best for corner rooms. When choosing a method for heating walls, the most suitable option is an electric film version, or an infrared floor. It should not be installed by yourself. To heat the seam under the plinth, you can use a warm floor, where as heating element cable is used.

Installation of a stationary wall electric heater does not completely solve the problem of poor-quality insulation between the plates, but it can be installed independently.

For this you will need:

drill or perforator;
anchors or dowels;
a hammer;
socket.

Whatever the reason for the freezing of hollow core slabs, it is necessary to significantly reduce the humidity in the premises, it is imperative to check the efficiency of ventilation and control quality work heating systems. All work to repair the building and eliminate the causes of freezing should be carried out carefully and accurately. Forgetting about some detail, you run the risk of facing this problem again, and very soon.

Foam concrete in recent times is in high demand among developers. They build from it residential buildings different heights, outbuildings, garages. The material is durable, environmentally friendly, light weight, warm and easy to process. However, during the operation of a foam block house, one unpleasant defect may appear - cracks in the walls. The purpose of this article is to acquaint readers with the causes of cracks in foam concrete walls and ways to eliminate the problem.

Causes of cracks

If a crack appears in the wall of foam blocks, it is necessary to find out the cause of its occurrence. Thus, in most cases, it is possible to prevent its further spread. The wall cracks for the following reasons:

Errors in the construction of the foundation. Many inexperienced builders naively believe that lightweight foam concrete does not require the construction of a powerful foundation. In fact, the life of the entire structure depends on the quality of the foundation. It is necessary to ensure that the foundation is laid to the depth of freezing of the soil, and its width slightly exceeds the width of the foam blocks. In addition, under the foundation should be laid sand cushion layer 8–10 cm.
The technology of laying blocks is broken. For this, cement mortar was used instead of glue. The resulting cold bridges could well provoke the appearance of cracks due to the temperature difference.
Foam concrete blocks were used wet. In the process of their drying, the process of shrinkage of the material is observed, which contributes to the appearance of cracks. And if wet blocks were laid on the eve of frost, then the wet material will literally be torn when it freezes.
Cracked material may indicate that the reinforcement of every 4th row of blocks was not applied during the masonry process.
If the height of the house exceeds 1 floor, it is necessary to interfloor overlap mount a reinforced concrete belt on the walls. If such a belt is not erected, then the walls crack, perhaps due to uneven stress on their various parts.
The foundation is being built under the external and interior walls at home. If the depth of its occurrence under the inner walls is less than under the outer ones, then a gap can easily appear.
It is necessary to use material with the same density for laying walls. That is, you need to purchase it in one place and one brand. It is undesirable to use foam blocks for one masonry different manufacturers or use compound materials.

Attention! If a vertical cracks appeared mainly in the middle of the wall, then, most likely, the weak foundation is to blame. In this case, it is necessary to strengthen it, and only then proceed to eliminate cracks.

In any case, if a foam concrete wall cracked, you can restore the integrity of the structure even on your own. Below will be described how to repair cracks in a foam block house.

Classification of cracks in a foam concrete wall

mechanical cracks. They differ from shrinkage cracks in their greater width and length. In the vast majority of cases, they arise as a result of movements or destruction of the foundation. Less commonly, they can occur due to subsidence of the entire structure on quicksand. To eliminate the cause of the crack, it is necessary to examine the foundation under the crack. To do this, it is desirable to bare. If there are problems, then the foundation is reinforced with a concrete pad.
Shrinkage cracks. They are less dangerous. They are small in width. They are often horizontal. Closing such gaps is not difficult.

Depending on the type of crack, they are sealed in different ways.

Methods for sealing cracks in concrete walls

First of all, it is necessary to determine the reason why the wall bursts. Then try to eliminate this cause. After that, you can start sealing the cracks. There are several ways to do this.

Small cracks (shrinkage)

The place of crack formation is cleaned of plaster, dusted with water and primed.
Seams are being stitched. They are expanded with a metal spatula to the required width. The length of the seam is also forcibly increased.
We seal the seam with an adhesive for foam concrete or a mixture consisting of foam concrete chips, water and cement.
Aged certain time needed to set the grout.

Large mechanical cracks

To eliminate wide cracks, it is necessary to reinforce them, and seal the seams themselves with one of the following materials:

Adhesive composition for laying foam concrete.
Cement mortar with silicate chips.
Mounting foam.
Epoxy adhesive.

Reinforcement is carried out over the entire area of the crack with an indent from it on the sides of at least 40 cm. This can be done in several ways:

The place of reinforcement is freed from plaster. At equal distances on the sides of the seam, anchors are driven in, between which a wire or mesh is stretched. You can use chain-link mesh or metal construction mesh. On top, the mesh or wire is plastered. The thickness of the plaster layer is about 2–3 cm.
All plaster is removed from the crack area. A reinforcing fiberglass mesh is glued onto the crack. For this, it is used adhesive composition used for laying foam concrete. From above, the reinforcing mesh is sealed with the same solution. After it dries, the wall is puttied and plastered.

The appearance of cracks on the walls in a house built from foam blocks is a frequent occurrence. In the vast majority of cases, this phenomenon is not dangerous, as it is a natural process of shrinkage and drying of building materials. It is recommended to adhere to certain building codes in the process of building houses to prevent the appearance of cracks. Well, in case of their occurrence, take measures to eliminate this unpleasant phenomenon in one of the ways described above.

When designing, and especially the implementation of a house, that is, a construction site, there are many nuances that generally affect the strength of the entire structure. The floor nodes were no exception, because they are entirely responsible for what kind of load the laid structures will withstand.

Between the end of the timber floor beam and brick wall need to be ventilated air gap.

So, let's consider what the nodes of these systems are and how they are mounted.

Some characteristics

The ceilings themselves, as a rule, are made of reinforced concrete slabs, which are produced in a special way in factory conditions.

According to the type of material from which they are made, they can be divided into:

cellular concrete;
multi-hollow;
made of heavy concrete;
as well as prefabricated monolithic structures.

In each case of construction, the floor material is selected individually, in connection with the tasks assigned to the planned device, as well as the width of the span, etc.

Similar products according to their design can be divided into:

interfloor;
attic.

Scheme of sealing the floor in outer wall: 1 - wall; 2 - lining; 3 - embedded end of the beam; 4 - floor slab.

In brick houses with more than two floors, it is planned to use precast concrete floors. The indisputable advantage of such reinforced concrete structures is their enormous strength and load-bearing capacity. When using reinforced concrete elements, you can safely make a basement.

Interfloor systems located on different height, may have small design features associated with the need for heat or sound insulation. For example, if the element is between unheated attic and living quarters or between the basement and the first floor of a residential building.

The ceilings that separate the attic from the living quarters do not bear heavy loads during operation, which means that their design is lightweight.

During installation reinforced concrete slabs must be laid tightly to each other, and the seams are filled with cement mortar.

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Features of these systems

In order for the floor to hold tightly and be able to withstand large and even excessive loads, it is necessary to correctly calculate the support unit of the floor slab on the brick wall. Depending on how it is implemented, it will be possible to give a certain load to a given floor of the building. By the way, please note: a slab support unit cannot be designed on the basis of lintels, rather than load-bearing walls.

Scheme for embedding a wooden floor beam into a brick wall: 1 - wooden beam; 2 - the end of the beam, smeared with resin and wrapped with roofing felt;
3 - waterproofing; 4 - brick wall; 5 - air gap between the wall and the beveled end of the beam.

In construction, as in any industry, there are special regulations, regulating the norms for mounting support nodes on various, including brick, walls.

In order to accurately determine the "depth of support", it is necessary not only to take into account the direct length of the selected slab, but also the material itself, on which this slab will rest. Therefore, all products, as a rule, are marked, that is, they indicate the maximum bearing capacity, as well as the level of minimum seismic resistance.

Construction supervising authorities carefully monitor exactly how these structures are laid and what is the bearing area of the bearing wall of the building.

This is of great importance, since an improperly mounted assembly on a brick wall will be a violation, which will lead to a ban on construction or the remodeling of a completely already built part of the building.

At the same time, the regulatory authorities are guided by modern, existing on this moment GOSTs, as well as a series project documentation, where the value of support is exactly indicated. In accordance with the existing GOST 956-91, which regulates the depth of support of a floor of any length on a load-bearing brick wall, this value is 10 mm, excluding the length of the device itself. Therefore, when choosing a reinforced concrete slab for organization, it is necessary to carefully study the marking applied to it, as it will give all the necessary information about this reinforced concrete product.

As a rule, plate marking consists of a group of letters and numbers. For example, PK 42.15-8T plate. The letters PK are the name of the product itself, in this case it is a floor slab with round voids; the numbers 42.15 indicate the dimensions of the reinforced concrete products in decimeters (the constructive length is 4180, and the width is 1490); the number 8 indicates the maximum load on this plate - 800 kgf / sq.m; the letter T is an index for the heavy concrete used in the manufacture of the slab.

This article will focus on common mistakes made when erection brick walls .

It is no secret that the quality of other country houses, to put it mildly, leaves much to be desired. Due to negligence or ignorance, builders make unacceptable mistakes, which sometimes lead to accidental consequences. Moreover, the denial of norms and rules becomes hardly unsystematic.

In such conditions, customers have a hard time. For any question, they receive a “comprehensive” answer something like this: “We have always done this, and no one complained.” It is difficult for a person who, by the nature of his activity, is far from construction, to defend his point of view, find convincing arguments and convict hacks of poor-quality work. As a result, the house was built, but it is uncomfortable or even unsafe to live in it. Money wasted, materials wasted, time wasted.

You can, of course, give advice from the very beginning to keep an eye on the builders, constantly monitor the progress of work, and invite independent experts to resolve disputes. But not all customers have the opportunity to regularly visit their suburban property. In addition, only a specialist can detect many errors. The best option is to organize independent technical supervision of the construction process. Such services are offered by specialized firms that have the appropriate license.

AT last years low quality brickwork has become a mass phenomenon. The use of a substandard solution, non-compliance with technological standards and other gross violations lead to catastrophic consequences. The walls literally burst at the seams, the lining peels off, and there is a threat to the health and life of the inhabitants of the house. In such cases, there is only one way out: partial (in combination with repair and strengthening) or complete demolition of the defective structure. Meanwhile, even safe, but crooked masonry can create many problems. Curved surfaces are very difficult to finish - apply plaster, veneer with stone, etc.

Errors in design and construction often lead to wetting and freezing of the outer walls. As a result - high heat losses, dampness, mold and slow but sure destruction of bricks. There can be no question of any comfortable and serene living in such a house. And the correction of such, so to speak, shortcomings requires huge financial, labor and time costs. I'm not talking about the moral damage caused to the owners.

	Masonry on the principle of "tyap-blunder". Brickwork is made in violation of technological standards. The bricks are stacked at random. The seams are uneven, in some places their thickness reaches 30 mm, while the norm is not more than 15 mm. At the same time, the vertical seams were completely left without mortar. What kind of energy saving can we talk about if cracks gape in the wall!
	Obliquely. And here the builders, without further ado, slyly laid out the wall along an inclined line. The quality of work does not stand up to criticism. But the unfortunate masons did not have to lead the wall under the inclined rafters with ledges pitched roof. But at the same time, an emergency situation was created: the inclined section can fall out at any moment
	Wall "shrapnel". This wall is a victim of unscrupulous manufacturers. This is what happens to bricks that contain too much lime. In damp weather there was a "shooting" of lime. The process is extended in time and it is not known when it will end. You can stop the "shooting" by finishing. But do not forget that plastering is a “wet” process.
	Wall in hoarfrost. The freezing of the walls of this respectable mansion occurred for two reasons: due to insufficient thickness and the wrong combination of hollow and facing brick. If the problem is not fixed soon, then the house will face big troubles: destruction of the cladding, dampness, mold, discomfort, heat loss.
	Insidious condensate. This is what happens as a result of the wrong construction of a three-layer wall. The builders forgot to leave ventilation gap between lining and insulation. And besides, they saved on thermal insulation. Condensation has accumulated on the inside of the front brick, which has leaked out. In winter, the walls will freeze, which will lead to the destruction of the brick
	Curved tracks. uneven seams on brick cladding spoil the whole appearance of the facade. Of course, the walls will not fall apart from this. However, it is easy to understand the disappointment of the owners, who spent a lot of money on expensive home decoration and received a very mediocre result. In Soviet times, experienced builders called such seams between bricks "advance pay"
	Natural ventilation. And here the builders took it and filled the gap between the window and the ceiling with hollow bricks. Everything would be fine, but they put the brick on spoons - they saved on the material (they saved two whole bricks). And along the way, provided the room with constant ventilation. Even if the holes are then sealed with mortar, this section of the wall will freeze through (the thickness is only 65 mm)
	"Infernal Portal" Above this doorway fit to write: "Abandon hope, ye who enter here." Trying to "correct" the structure, the builders actually deprived the reinforced concrete lintel of the fulcrum. Those miserable 5 cm walls (at a norm of 15-25 cm), on which the element now rests on one side, will soon collapse, unable to withstand the pressure of reinforced concrete
	Who builds like that? Water won't have to find a hole in this basement wall. The brickwork is full of holes. Moreover, the builders not only violated the current norm (it is forbidden to use hollow bricks when building a basement). but also went against common sense. They laid the bricks as if they wanted to show off the voids on purpose.
	Escaped beauty. Another example of the incorrect use of hollow bricks. When decorating platbands, products not intended for facade cladding were used. In addition, the voids "look out" on the street. Mounting foam itself needs protection from rain, snow and sun. But the builders did not bother to fill the bricks with mortar
	All wrong. This steel jumper was mounted incorrectly from the very beginning. Main mistake- Insufficient support width. Support nodes should include concrete pads that would ensure uniform load distribution and prevent local destruction of the brick. In addition, steel lintels need to be insulated (with the same brick)
	Zigzag of failure. Such serious cracks in the brick cladding occur due to different reasons. Most likely, the deformations are caused by movements of the foundation, built without taking into account the hydrogeology of the site. It is also possible that during the construction of two-layer walls, the correct relationship between the foam concrete base and the brick cladding was not ensured.

Overlap - horizontal Basic structure, which is created between two vertical rooms separating them by height. Wherein top part The slab usually acts as the floor for the upper room, and the bottom of the slab acts as the ceiling for the lower room.

Conventionally, overlaps can be divided into:

Basement - a structure that separates the basement and first floors.
Interfloor - a structure located between two floors.
Mansard - separates the floor from the attic.
Attic - separates the floor from the attic.

The floor can be a horizontally located structure made of building materials such as wood, metal, concrete, reinforced concrete, and meeting certain engineering and construction requirements. These requirements usually include the ability of the floor to withstand permanent and temporary loads, i.e. have increased strength, as well as have sound, heat and waterproofing functions.

Types of floors and their technological features

Depending on the material used, the floors are divided into:

Wooden
Reinforced concrete

The above types of floors can be used depending on their purpose and design features buildings.

Wooden floors

Installation of beams
Beamed or wooden floors are often used in the construction of wooden or traditional private houses. In this case, the floor beams must be made of hardwood or conifers wood.

The essence of wooden floors is simple. Are taken wooden beams or glued timber with the following dimensions:

height 150-300 mm;
100-250 mm wide,

cut off the ends at an angle - 60-80 o, treat with an antiseptic and tar. After that, the ends of the beams are wrapped with roofing material and placed in niches with a depth of 150 mm, leaving a gap of 30-50 mm between the wall and the beam. The resulting gap is filled with mineral wool.

It should be remembered that the beams are installed on bearing walls structures at a distance of 600 mm and up to 1.5 m from each other.

During installation, the beams are installed, starting from the extreme ones, having previously retreated at least 50 mm from the walls of the structure. Then intermediate beams are evenly installed in the remaining space.

After distributing all the beams over the surface, it is necessary to check them for horizontal position. For leveling, tarred boards of the required thickness are usually used. It must be remembered when leveling that all beams in horizontal plane should be on the same level.

To create additional rigidity for the future floor, the beams can be reinforced with special steel anchors, nails and steel plates. Similar to brick houses is done extremely rarely, so we will not focus on this. But in wooden houses beams are fastened with special connecting brackets.

After preparing the base of the floor, you can proceed to its coating.

Installation of wooden floors
Planed boards (25-45 mm thick), OSB panels or thick plywood are usually used as flooring for wooden floors.

Installation takes place as follows. First, cranial bars with a section of 50x50 mm are attached to the beams, on which a draft floor is laid *. Layers of steam and thermal insulation are laid successively over the subfloor, and after that, a finishing floor *. This method is used when mounting the basement.

Mounting floors happens a little differently. The cranial bars are attached, to which a layer of vapor barrier is attached from below, and then the ceiling material for the lower floor. Further, on the inside of the cranial bars, between the beams, noise and thermal insulation material. Mineral wool or expanded clay can act as such material.

After that, another layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of the beams, and on top of it, either planed boards or OSB boards or thick plywood.

In rare cases, when the distance between the beams is large, then before laying boards or slabs, logs are first laid perpendicular to the beams, placing them closer to each other than the beams.

Installation of attic and attic floors about the same as the installation of interfloor ceilings. In all three cases, the thickness of the beam must be at least 1/24 of the length of the beam itself.

The floor surface formed as a result of the installation of a wooden floor, depending on the flooring material, is covered with a top coat *. If planed boards were used as the material, then the best option will cover them with paints and varnishes, and not lay anything on top of them.

Advantages
The advantages of wood flooring are:

Significantly small weight of a wooden floor compared to reinforced concrete, which reduces the load on the walls and foundation of the building structure.
Comparative simplicity and speed of installation.
Installation of a wooden floor can be done on your own.
The low cost of such an overlap compared to monolithic or reinforced concrete.

Flaws
There are disadvantages of wooden floors. These include:

Slightly flammable material.
Regular processing of floor wood with fire retardant impregnations and paints and varnishes.
The fluctuation of wooden floors.
Wood needs air circulation.
fragility.

Make hardwood floors where needed, not where you want.
All wooden elements ceilings should be located from smoke ventilation ducts at a distance of at least 250 mm.
All floor wood must be treated with fire and bioprotective agents.
Beams in contact with brick or concrete must be processed protective compounds and wrap with ruberoid.
Do not make the distance between the beams more than 1000 mm.
Do not exceed the width between beam supports by more than 6 m.

Reinforced concrete floors

Reinforced concrete floors - ceilings with reliability, durability, as well as good strength and fire resistance. Probably the most significant drawback of this type of flooring is its heavy weight.

Reinforced concrete floors can be conditionally divided into monolithic reinforced concrete and prefabricated reinforced concrete slabs.

Monolithic reinforced concrete floors

Monolithic reinforced concrete slabs are slabs in which a reinforcement frame filled with concrete mixture is used as a base.

Floor reinforcement
Reinforcement of interfloor ceilings begins with the fact that the reinforcement is welded to the ends of the reinforcement or wire rod with a diameter of at least 10 mm released from the armored belt. Of course, it is better to immediately calculate and release the ends of the reinforcement with a diameter of 14 mm or more. At the same time, the ends of the reinforcement are produced so that subsequently the reinforcement to be welded over the entire surface forms a grid with cells of 200x200 mm.

The welded fittings are connected or welded together at the junctions. The end result should be a mesh.

The diameter of the reinforcement used is calculated based on the design loads. For these purposes, there are special tables by which you can calculate which reinforcement should be used for floors with certain parameters. However, from personal experience I’ll say, it’s better to play it safe and take reinforcement larger diameter than necessary. After all, all now existing tables and building codes are interpreted on the basis of the material, the quality of which is equal to the quality Soviet Union. But everyone should understand that the quality of current materials is far from ideal.

As my grandfather used to say: Better to play it safe and sleep well than save money and sleep poorly."

So, when pouring a ceiling with a slab thickness of up to 150 mm, it is recommended to use reinforcement with a diameter of at least 14 mm, and with a mesh cell size of no more than 200x200 mm. If the span is more than 4.5 m, then it is better to take reinforcement with a diameter of 20 mm or more, and leave the cells the same.

Another important point. For reinforcement of interfloor ceilings, it is desirable to use solid reinforcement rods. If the spans are large, then it is better to weld the reinforcement together.

After the reinforcement has been completed, you can proceed with the installation of the formwork.

Installation of formwork for overlapping
Correct installation formwork is a guarantee of high-quality overlapping.

For formwork, you can use boards or boards made of boards, OSB boards or metal sheets. It is better to wrap boards, shields or OSB-plates with polyethylene and attach it with a stapler, and metal sheets can be oiled or worked off. This will further ensure easy separation of the formwork from concrete, and will not allow the material to deteriorate from moisture.

We attach the prepared formwork or formwork material to the reinforcing mesh with wire. It is recommended to install formwork on the entire surface of the floor to be poured.

At this stage, it is worth remembering that the attached formwork must be suspended 30-50 mm below the reinforcing cage. For these purposes, special clamps or brick fragments are installed between the formwork and reinforcement at a distance of 1-1.2 m. the same size. These clamps must be installed precisely at the intersections of the reinforcing bars.

After attaching the entire formwork and thus installing the clamps, we check that the wire is tightened well, without letting the formwork sag. For safety, the installed formwork can be additionally supported from below with spacers. After these steps, you can proceed directly to the concreting of the floor.

Floor concreting
To fill the floor with concrete mix, you must first calculate the thickness of the future floor. According to the documentation, the thickness of the slab is calculated based on the span, and is taken in a ratio of 1:30. For example, for a span of 6 m, the thickness of the ceiling will be 200 mm.

The thickness of the floor can be determined by measuring the required 200 mm from the formwork upwards, after which, using the water level, make markings along the perimeter of the walls, and then highlight it with the help of beating and blue.

Having decided on the thickness and having made the necessary markup, you can start concreting. The entire process must be completed in one go. If it is not possible to concrete at a time, then at the place of the gap it is laid metal grid from wire with a diameter of 2-3 mm with a cell of 10x20 or 20x20 mm. However, this is an extreme case.

During the laying of concrete, it must be vibrated very well so that the concrete fills all the voids and lays down as tightly as possible. The quality of the concrete floor will depend on this.

For vibration, you can use a stick in the form of a handle from a shovel, or, if possible, special vibrators. For leveling concrete, it is better to use a long rule, or a smooth, polished beam.

Bay in this way the entire surface of the overlap, leave it for 28 days until it completely hardens and acquires the necessary concrete strength. You can, of course, remove the formwork earlier, it depends on the ambient temperature.

After this time, we remove the formwork, first removing the supports, and then, biting the wire, remove the formwork panels. The resulting irregularities on the lower part of the floor are eliminated with a pick.

Advantages
The advantages of a monolithic reinforced concrete floor are:

Possibility to make a cover various forms and sizes.
These overlaps do not have deflections, or in rare cases they are minimal, imperceptible to the eye.

Flaws
There are disadvantages of monolithic reinforced concrete floors. These include:

The complexity of the process.
Necessary care for the floor during the acquisition of concrete of the desired design strength.
A minimum of three people are required for pouring.
Requires special equipment, possibly mechanisms.
The high cost of work relative to wooden floors.
The need to buy ready-mixed concrete, or prepare it yourself.

For reinforcement, use reinforcement not of the diameter that is advised to you, but one or two sizes thicker.
For tying reinforcement, it is better to use a special strapping wire.
As formwork, it is better to use downed wooden shields from 25 mm thick, or metal sheets, which are supported from below by boards for more reliable fastening.
The wooden parts of the formwork can be packed in a plastic film, and the metal parts can be oiled or worked off. This will prevent spoiling construction material, and it will be easier to separate the formwork from the floor solution.
It is better to install the formwork immediately on the entire surface to be poured.
Filling the floor is recommended to be done at a time.
AT hot weather the overlap must be watered with water (do not fill) in order to avoid the appearance of cracks, and in winter time- such a ceiling needs heating, and it is better to add special antifreeze additives to the concrete solution.

Precast concrete slabs

Prefabricated reinforced concrete slabs are perhaps the most common building material used for flooring. These slabs are of different sizes and consist of a reinforcing cage, poured with concrete on top. In most cases, these plates are hollow.

The essence of the installation of floors from reinforced concrete slabs comes down to several points:

Measure the surface of the future floor (length and width).
Find optimal solution according to the size of the plates, their location and number.
Find a company for the production, delivery and installation of plates.
Pay for the brought material and installation of the product.

That's actually all that is needed for the installation of floors from factory reinforced concrete slabs.

Advantages
Advantages of precast concrete slabs:

High bearing capacity slabs that can be subjected to design loads immediately after installation.
These floors have a high bearing capacity.
No deflections.
High speed of installation work.

Flaws
Cons of precast concrete floor:

The need for monolithic belt in places where the plates rest on the walls.
Impossibility of self-assembly.
Availability of qualified installers.
Availability of special equipment for the delivery and installation of plates.
The high cost of plates.
Cash costs for the plates themselves, their delivery and installation.

When making a ceiling from factory reinforced concrete slabs, consult with specialists.
Lay floor slabs only on a pre-created armored belt.
Do not lay reinforced concrete floor slabs on walls less than 200 mm thick.
If you decide to use precast concrete floor slabs, find and contact a company with intelligent specialists.

Summing up

Each type of overlap is good for certain structures. During the review, it turned out that the cheapest and least labor-intensive for installation are wooden floors. However, this type of flooring can not be used in all types of structures, but only in wooden buildings and traditional private houses. Wooden floors can be used for any of the four types of floors - basement, interfloor, attic and attic.

A monolithic reinforced concrete floor can be used in the construction of buildings of almost any design, except for wooden structures. Such floors are more expensive than wooden ones, they require certain material and physical costs. However, they are more resilient and more benefits, compared with wooden floors. Depending on the type of bulk fillers in the concrete mixture, this flooring can be used for all types of floors.

Precast concrete slabs are the simplest, but the most expensive type of flooring, which also has restrictions on installation on some types of structures (wooden, with walls less than 200 mm thick). They are installed mainly as a ceiling between the 0th and 1st floor, as well as between the 1st and 2nd floors.

* Draft floor - a horizontally flat plane that serves as the basis for finish coating, and made of boards, chipboard, OSB or thick plywood.
* Finished floor - top coat floors such as tiles, parquet, laminate, linoleum, etc.