Correct floor cake on wooden logs: laying options on various bases. Floor insulation in a wooden house: types of heaters and the procedure for work Floor in a wooden house with an underground

For a number of reasons, wooden houses and concrete slabs with cement-sand screeds do not combine well. In the vast majority of cases, floors in buildings built of wood are performed using wooden beams. Accordingly, the floors here are special. We will talk further about how they work, what options exist, and what floor design will be most effective.

Principles of implementation of floors in wood construction technologies

Note that beamed ceilings are typical not only for frame, log or timber houses, in the same way they create a very large percentage of private cottages built of bricks, various blocks, or cast concrete in one way or another. That is, almost everything stated below will be relevant for private construction in general. Modern Requirements to comfort, energy efficiency and durability of residential buildings are growing every year. In order for the house to serve as long as possible and without problems, you need to pay due attention to all its elements, without exception. It may seem that the floor is a kind of secondary structure, but this is far from the case. Wooden floors must be considered in combination with ceilings, because they, in fact, function as a whole.

When considering the construction of wooden floors in a cottage, two types of systems should be distinguished:

• floors of the 1st floor,
• floor on interfloor ceilings (one and a half, second, third level ...).

They will work differently, and the requirements for them will be different. In the first case, we have an enclosing outer structure, regardless of what is under them - ground preparation air-cushioned or basement/cellar. Here it is necessary to protect the interior from the cold, as well as from moisture, which tends to penetrate into the room from below. The floors of the second or third floor do not need insulation and waterproofing (with the exception of those located above the bathrooms, pools, steam rooms ...), but it is extremely important to create a system that will prevent the spread of impact, airborne and structural noise.

In both cases, the task is to obtain the construction:

• in terms of performance, it complies with all applicable building codes;
• able to live no less than the whole house;
• as light, simple and inexpensive as possible;
• technological in terms of installation and maintenance;
• environmentally friendly;
• ensuring the correct functioning and aesthetics of the finished floor covering.

Many have topical issues on the assembly of a wooden floor, which we have to answer very often. We will try to outline the main ones below. Same way Additional materials on this topic can be found in the sections - wooden structures and floorboards.

On the lags or on the beams

Obviously, it's faster and cheaper for the homeowner to lay the deck straight over the floor joists and then lay down the top coat. But the problem is that the beams are usually rigidly tied to the load-bearing walls. Because of this, any impact noise: walking, moving heavy objects, work engineering equipment and household appliances- all this is immediately “given” to adjacent structures and disperses around the house. That is, there is a huge risk of generating structure-borne noise. In addition, some shifts are possible in a wooden house (this is even if we do not take into account the shrinkage of the "logs"), they can affect the quality of the fit of the flooring elements, cause gaps, creaks, and deformation of the planes. In some cases (especially in the basement), the step between the beams is too large to be sewn directly to them without using a board with an exorbitantly large cross section and mass. Very often, the upper edges of the beams lie relative to each other with a rather large horizontal difference, which greatly complicates or makes it impossible to create an even floor over them. The use of logs perpendicular to the floor elements helps to avoid such problems, since they can not be fixed rigidly to the beams, moreover, it is recommended to expose them through elastic damper pads without using any fixing brackets or through metal fasteners. Logs are not tied up with load-bearing walls and other stationary structures, such as flights of stairs, colon etc. They are not even brought close, leaving a technological gap of 10-15 mm between the ends of the bars and the walls, and the extreme logs in the room are placed at a distance from the walls (up to 10 centimeters).

In essence, this forms a "floating" floor base, which is valued for its soundproofing capabilities and stability.

Important! Some craftsmen offer customers to make floors in which "lags" run along the floor beams (sewn to them from the side). Thus, they get the opportunity to level the draft plane, but even when using vibration damping pads, the noise level of such floors is too high. The secondary role of installing the lag in this way is to create a ventilation gap (in our diagram above, this is already provided).

The optimal spacing of the lag, as well as the appropriate section of lumber for their creation, depends on many variables (material and thickness of the flooring, the distance between the support points - beams, design loads ...) and is determined in each specific case separately.

If we talk about the type and quality of the lumber used, then they are usually produced from a bar or board of the 1st grade in such a length that they are enough from wall to wall without joints. Basically, products of natural moisture or “dried” are used, how to dry lumber you can find in the article Atmospheric drying, ideally planed. Pine or spruce as a raw material for logs has proven to be excellent, primarily because of the good ratio of cost, moisture resistance and strength characteristics. An integral rule when working with lumber is antiseptic treatment of all wooden elements. We recommend using OZONE -007. You can also use aspen boards, which are usually easy to buy.

Why and how to make a draft floor

When talking about the subfloor, then we can talk about two things. Or about flooring over beams or a log, which carries one or two more layers (depending on the option you choose - fine flooring and topcoat); or about filing from the bottom of the floor beams.

We will consider the first version of the subfloor below, but let's talk about the filing here.

Beam hemming performs several functions:

• It is a supporting carrier for insulating materials, because in most cases they are located just between the beams. Not only the insulation relies on the lining, but also sound insulation, films and membranes - the whole technological pie.
• It can simultaneously be the finishing lining of the ceiling, both with solid cladding, when the ceiling is hidden, and in such interiors where the beams remain visible on the lower floor (a rather fashionable country-style solution today). In both cases, the binder material hides the "contents" of the overlap - the frame elements, hidden communications, insulating layers.
• Due to the high coefficient of heat transfer resistance of wood, the filing works as an element that reduces the amount of heat loss. As part of a complex multi-layer construction, it helps to stop the flow airborne noise between floors.

Technically, the filing can be made from any materials intended to create planes. But when implementing the carrier base, it is most advantageous to use a grade 2 edged board, with a thickness of 20-25 mm and a face width of 100 to 200 mm. If it will play the role of a ceiling, then it makes sense to use a lining with a “classic”, “softline” or “calm” profile, the front side of which will be turned down. Installation of a rough filing or "facing" is sometimes carried out using cranial bars, which are fixed between the beams. This option is quite complicated, since the master has to fasten a lot, measure out and very accurately cut a large number of boards of small length so that it becomes as tightly as possible between the supporting elements of the floor. It is more convenient and faster to hem the beams along the lower edge with long lumber, getting a solid plane. But, it should be noted that sometimes it makes sense to use boards 3 meters long, which will be easy to get under the beams (especially important when filing the basement, where there is quite a bit of space), but at the same time it will be possible to fix the part on several beams at once.

Types of flooring, what to do

Finish coating. A solid grooved board with a thickness of 28 to 45 mm and a width of 110 to 140 mm can be considered a classic of the genre. This type of lumber is specially designed to create a wooden floor, it is made of needles dried to 12-15 percent moisture, usually has a well-planed front surface. This material is made from high-grade raw materials (products belong to category “A”), environmentally friendly without any compromises.

But the main advantage of such products is the presence of a groove and a ridge. Firstly, we get a flooring that does not have through gaps along the plane, in contrast to technologies using edged boards. The lock prevents blowing, the spread of sounds and cold. Secondly, the elements of the tongue and groove make it possible to fasten the finished floorboard to the joists hidden when a nail or screw is installed at an angle through a groove or tongue, the so-called "parquet" method. Thirdly, most models of floor piling are endowed with a groove on the back side, which, in any design, provides ventilation for the flooring.

Draft flooring (floor). It is not necessary to use a tongue-and-groove planed board to form the base for laying the final flooring, although it is of course also excellent. AT this case the edged board of the first and even the second grade will show itself normally.

Important! A rough flooring (floor) from edged boards is made even before the creation of wooden floors from tongue-and-groove solid wood. By mounting the floor tongue across the solid rough flooring, it is possible to obtain a structure that is very resistant to bending loads and completely eliminate the appearance of creaking in the future. After all, its cause is usually the friction of adjacent lamellas against each other when the fixation is weakened and the boards deflect when walking.

Also, when choosing components for assembling a finishing floor, you should pay attention to sheet materials, which make it possible to make the floor quickly and with a minimum of joints. These include:

Is wood floor insulation necessary?

Unfortunately, a wood floor can only be considered “warm” figuratively. If it is operated on the ground floor, then insulation is indispensable. Whichever of the modern insulators is used, with indicators of 0.3-0.44 W / (m * C), its thickness should be from 100 mm. Styrofoam, cotton wool or XPS is available in this thickness, but it is better to apply 2-3 or even 4 layers of 50 mm each to arrange the plates in a “staggered pattern” and close all the gaps. If we consider the working properties and practicality of different types of insulation, then the clear leader (many experts believe that the only option for a wooden floor in a wooden house) will be mineral wool. It is distinguished by elasticity and some compressibility, therefore it can be easily adjusted to any step of the beams, where it becomes completely open without obvious gaps. It is vapor-permeable, therefore it is able to remove excess moisture from the room without causing condensation inside the structures. It does not burn, therefore it significantly increases the fire resistance of wooden floors, becoming a fire barrier. Mineral wool slabs are absolutely safe for humans and can be used in residential areas without any problems. Due to its fibrous structure, it is cotton wool that absorbs sound air waves and impact noise in the best way. Therefore, it is this material that is placed in the ceilings of the upper levels to ensure proper sound insulation. These can be both universal models and products specially tailored to combat noise.

Inside the construction of a frame wooden floor, it is allowed to use both fiberglass-based wool and basalt rock wool (stone wool). Considering that there is no pressure on the insulation, products of relatively low density (from 23 kg / m3) are suitable for installation in such systems. And since the orientation of the thermal insulation is purely horizontal, and no slipping is expected, there are no contraindications to the use of wool mats supplied in rolls.

It should be said that for the normal operation of mineral wool, it must be supplemented with building films. In the floor of the first floor and in the floors above wet rooms, before laying the insulation on the rough filing, a waterproofing sheet is first laid. As a rule, such is reinforced polyethylene, which differs from the usual one in increased strength and durability.

Important! No matter how perfect the hydro and vapor barrier measures are, all elements hardwood floor and wooden floors must be treated with impregnating compounds with an antiseptic effect, which in the event of an “accident” will help to avoid the spread of rot or fungus, for example, OZONE 007.

On top of the wool, to prevent the emission of fibers into the room and protect the insulator from external moisture from the side of the room, the insulation layer is covered with special membranes, including superdiffusion ones, which allow the wool to always be dry. There is one very important point: the finishing flooring of a wooden floor should not touch the insulation or any of the films with the back side, otherwise there will be problems with the ventilation of the subfloor and the durability and efficiency of the structure may be reduced. Therefore, there is a need for additional spacers create ventilation gap. This can be a rough flooring (floor) under a grooved floor board, logs, or a counter rail up to 40 mm thick, if the floors are laid directly along the floor beams.

The construction of any house is a complex process that includes several stages. Among these stages, the process of erecting floors stands out separately. In wooden structures, many prefer a wooden floor. This decision is quite justified, because a country house implies closeness to the surrounding nature, so natural material will look most impressive compared to concrete screed and synthetic finishes. The device of the floor in a wooden house is characterized by its own characteristics, so the installation of the floor structure should be taken seriously. What floor can be built in a private house?

Floor types

According to experts, the floors in a wooden house can be either concrete or wood, as these two materials are suitable for use in the construction of private houses. The floor in a log house can be made using technology warm floors – modern technologies allow this option to be implemented.

The concrete floor is a pouring of the screed, which can be done independently. The choice of this option for the floor in a wooden house in individual cases allows you to save some time. It takes almost a month to completely dry the screed, and it may take even more time to install a quality lumber floor from scratch.

The benefits of concrete flooring log houses should include a reduction in the cost of work on fine finish coatings. A properly made screed has a flat surface on which you can mount any finishing coating. Possibility to cover the screed without additional work on leveling the working base reduces the time of work and the cost of materials. The screed process itself technical terms is not difficult, you do not need special skills here.

When installing floors in a wooden house made of concrete, it is necessary to take into account the possibility of cracking the screed under the influence of vibrations of the walls of the structure. The cracks formed during the operation of the concrete floor will not lead to serious consequences, but they can increase heat loss. In order to keep heat losses at a minimum level, during the installation of a cement screed, it is recommended that you carefully consider laying high-quality insulation.

The cement floor in a wooden house has another drawback: it itself presses with its weight on the foundation. Before construction works experts recommend making the necessary calculations so that during the operation of the house the foundation can withstand a heavy concrete screed. If you can't do it yourself, contact an experienced builder.

Another type of flooring in a wooden house is the flooring of the same wood. The advantages of such a floor structure include the environmental friendliness of the material and aesthetic appearance. Wood - natural natural material, which does not contain synthetic additives and does not emit substances harmful to the human body during operation. The appearance of the wooden floor is in perfect harmony with the building itself and the surrounding environment. For country house a cement floor, unlike wood, will seem superfluous, even foreign.

Modern means of protecting wooden floors, which include various oils, varnishes and impregnations, allow not only to provide the floors in a wooden house with a long service life, but also a beautiful appearance in accordance with common interior rooms. In the process of work, the wood floor can be given the desired shade or emphasize its original texture and color. Natural wood provides a feeling of warmth and comfort in the room, contributes to the creation comfortable atmosphere throughout the house.

The advantage of a wooden floor is the ease of its repair. If necessary, you can replace the damaged part yourself using a standard set of tools.

The disadvantages of a wooden floor usually include high costs finance and labor. Installation of the floor in a wooden house is quite difficult: sometimes a large amount of work cannot be done alone. Achieving a perfectly flat surface at such a cost can be problematic.

Ways to install wooden floors

Wood floor can be made in country house in three ways. The first method is used in cases where laying the floor in a wooden house is not associated with the installation of load-bearing beams in the log house itself. The resulting wood flooring will be a floating structure that is not connected to the walls. This coating is going to support pillars.

The second and third methods of organizing wooden floors are used when the log house is assembled with the installation of load-bearing beams. Based on these beams, either a single or double plank floor is laid. The arrangement of a single-layer floor in a wooden house is not difficult even for a beginner. This method of installing the coating is easy to implement in practice, but is only suitable for houses that are operated during the warm season. A single coating can be assembled in the country or in summer house, for buildings in which year-round living is planned, such a design is unacceptable.

For frequent home, being built for living throughout the year, only a double wooden floor will do. Such a floor construction in a wooden house consists of the installation of rough and finishing flooring, between which hydro- and heat-insulating materials are laid. The upper finishing floor is usually assembled from a grooved board.

How is the floor on the supports?

The erection of the floor on the supporting columns begins with the preparation of the base. For this, it is necessary to remove upper layer earth, and then fill in its place with gravel, crushed stone or sand. The best option would be a base of crushed stone, and on top of it - tightly packed sand. Next, brick support pillars are placed on the base, for which standard red bricks are most often used. Laying the floor in a wooden house must be done taking into account all the basic requirements, therefore, when assembling the supporting posts, it is necessary to correlate their height and cross section. The higher you raise the level of the pillars, the larger their cross section should be. For supports with a height of more than 25 cm, a width of two bricks is recommended.

The installation of pillars for floors in a wooden house starts from the perimeter of the room, after which they proceed to the installation of the same structures in the middle working surface. A roofing material is laid on the ends of the supports, which acts as a waterproofing material. On top of it, wooden linings are mounted on the poles, on which logs made of timber or logs are installed.

Logs are placed when installing the floor in a wooden house at a certain distance from each other, the step between the lags depends on the width of the boards that are supposed to be used in the future. To prevent displacement of the floor structure in winter time due to freezing of the soil, it is recommended to fill the space under the lags with slag. The embankment should not reach the lag by about 5 cm - that air layer left specifically for ventilation processes.

The floor itself is laid on mounted logs, and it is recommended to place the boards in the direction of light from the windows or in the direction of travel. Experts advise starting the flooring 1.5 cm from the wall, such gaps around the perimeter of the floor in a wooden house are made on purpose - to ensure the required level of ventilation.

As fixtures for wooden floors, long nails are used, which should be hammered into the board at an angle. After painting work, the nail heads will no longer be visible. When the floor is fully assembled, temporary skirting boards are attached to opposite sides of the room. The slots of these skirting boards, when laying the floor in a wooden house, are used as buffer zones, which are necessary for a while until the wood is completely dry. When the lumber is completely dry, these skirting boards can be replaced with conventional structures. In order to understand the procedure installation work to create a floor on supports, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the photos depicting each stage of the process.

Single board covering

A single floor can be implemented on a structure of supporting pillars. In this case, beams are attached to the support pillars, and a tongue-and-groove board is laid on top of the beams. Such a floor in a wooden house is fully consistent with the above-described design, assembled on pillars.

There is another option for single flooring: when the coating is mounted on beams embedded with bearing walls. In such a situation, the construction of brick supports is not necessary. The role of the working base will be performed by the supporting beams. Since the distance between them is usually very large, before working on the plank floor, a crate of logs should be built.

The design of the floor involves the use of a beam with a square section of 5-6 cm as a lag. In a wooden house, the step between the lags is determined by the thickness of the board of the final coating. The thicker the grooved board, the greater the step between the lags can be. When installing the crate, experts recommend constantly monitoring the evenness of its surface. Only a well-assembled crate will allow you to lay an even plank flooring without any problems.

When the logs are assembled and fixed with nails, you can proceed to the installation of the single deck itself. The flooring can play the role of both a rough and a finishing coating. If you are not going to additionally lay a decorative coating in the form of linoleum or other material on the floors in a wooden house, then the boardwalk will be considered fine. After completion of all work, it is recommended to cover the finished surface in several layers with a protective varnish.

If you cover the wood floor with some other material, then in fact it will play the role of a rough flooring. For the installation of a rough coating, it will be enough to use unedged material.

Installation of single floors on supporting columns or on a log crate is quite simple to do it yourself. Such a coating is done quickly and easily, and also does not require serious expenses. The disadvantage of single-layer floors in a wooden house is their low degree of thermal insulation. In winter, the ground in the underground will freeze. In the case of using pillars, this can cause displacement of the brick columns and the coating itself. A single floor can be used either for houses that are intended to be lived in during the summer, or if heating is available during the cold season.

Double floor decking

A double floor in a wooden house can be considered the best solution for year-round living in the countryside. Such a coating is called double, as it consists of two obligatory layers - roughing and finishing. How is the installation carried out?

First, a rough coating of unedged lumber up to 0.45 cm thick is assembled on the beams. Since this floor layer is at the bottom, when arranging it, you can save on the purchase of materials. It is not necessary to use expensive boards for the subfloor in a wooden house; slab or low-grade materials are suitable here. This does not mean that the draft layer can be made of poor quality. For him, it is recommended to choose boards of coniferous trees, as well as pre-impregnate them with antiseptic solutions.

The boards of the rough coating should lie close to each other. When this layer of construction is ready, it is necessary to lay on top of it thermal insulation material. For these purposes, mineral wool, polystyrene foam, expanded clay, sawdust or others are suitable. modern views heaters.

Floor arrangement in a wooden house in without fail includes not only accommodation insulation material, but also a layer of waterproofing. All these components of the design provide the future coating with a long service life. The final coating is mounted after laying the thermal insulation, a gap of 1.5 cm should be left between these two layers. The fastening of the boards is carried out in the same way as in the construction of other types of floors.

On the finished double floors in a wooden house, you can lay a finishing coating, and also use the finishing layer of the structure as a decor. To do this, the wood must be treated with protective varnishes or other special formulations with tint effect.

Eco-friendly is becoming more and more popular nowadays. low-rise construction houses from wood materials. Traditional log cabins made of rounded logs, cottages made of timber and even houses built from lightweight materials, their owners try to sheathe them with a board or clapboard. The same considerations, in order to create a microclimate closer to nature in a dwelling, are also guided by the choice of material for floors, giving preference to wood as a lighter, but sufficiently durable material.

By virtue of natural origin wood has a fairly low thermal conductivity, but in the Russian climate it still needs additional thermal insulation.

Options

There is enough big choice fillers for insulation of interfloor ceilings, floors and ceilings. It can be difficult for an inexperienced builder to understand the properties of one or another insulation, objectively assess their advantages and disadvantages, and make the right choice.

The thing is that different heat-insulating materials are more applicable for some operating conditions and less suitable for others. Insulation of such specific premises as attic, underground, veranda requires a special approach, so it is worth studying all the properties of materials in order to produce the insulation device as efficiently as possible.

The following factors influence the choice of heat-insulating material:

• Humidity. Constant dampness in the room (basements with open ground or insufficient waterproofing of the foundation, bathrooms, winter gardens or home greenhouses) or the likelihood of an increase in humidity in it (balconies, rooms for drying clothes, bathrooms or steam rooms);
• Purpose of the premises. Some types of materials contain certain resins or adhesives in their composition, which, for safety reasons, are not suitable for bedrooms or children's rooms.
• Possibility of damage by rodents or insects, resistance to fungal attack. Some of the materials appeal to rodents, while others are repulsive to them.
• Lower and upper temperature limits. Some thermal insulators are not resistant to severe frosts, while others lose their properties or are completely deformed and become unusable with significant heating.

It should be borne in mind that the heat-insulating material should “work in both directions” - not only protect the home from low temperatures in winter, but also maintain a comfortable environment for humans and pets in the summer heat.

Last but not least, the general condition of the house also affects the choice of insulation and the method of performing thermal insulation:

• the age of the building - in an old house one method is required, in a newly built one - another;
• foundation construction method - on bored or screw piles, on reinforced concrete blocks or on light foundations of small depth;
• the number of storeys of the building and the site of work - whether the floor is insulated for the 1st or 2nd floor.

Bottom

In most cases, wooden houses are built with a high base, that is, the height of the subfloor allows insulation from below. The only exception may be the southern regions, where private houses are being built on stable soils using the technology of erecting low-rise buildings on shallow piles. But even there, in most cases, they try to comply with the traditional construction of houses with a high base.

Otherwise, if the subfloor is not high enough, to insulate the floor of the first floor, it will be necessary to remove the floor board to the log or other supporting structure.

Thus, it is possible to insulate from below with a sufficiently high subfloor for the first floor or insulation of the floor of the second floor, which, accordingly, is the ceiling for the first floor.

Performance thermal insulation works in the underground is not much more complicated than the same work when insulating the floor of the second floor, but it has a number of features. Before starting work, you need to prepare the place and provide yourself with both the minimum comfort and the necessary level of security.

Most likely, there are no windows in the basement, so first of all you need to take care of sufficient lighting. If there are no stationary lamps, waterproof portable light sources on a flexible cord of sufficient length should be used.

For the same reason, in the underground space there is extremely poor natural ventilation, and sometimes it is completely absent. Unfortunately, many builders do not take this factor into account, which has an extremely negative impact on labor productivity. exhaled carbon dioxide heavier than other gases that make up atmospheric air, and therefore tends to the bottom.

And since the underground is the lowest point, carbon dioxide accumulates here, disrupts the full breathing of the worker, causes increased fatigue, drowsiness and, in especially severe cases, fainting. That's why it is very important to ensure sufficient supply ventilation from inside the house or from the street.

Of course, for the duration of the work in the basement, it is necessary to remove all things stored there, products and other objects that interfere with the free movement of the repairman.

If there is open ground in the subfield, it should be leveled and compacted if possible. In the best case, if the budget allows, pour concrete at least 10 cm high with reinforcement, thereby significantly reducing the humidity in the underground space. This will significantly extend the service life load-bearing elements plinth, and wooden floor structures.

In the absence of natural passive ventilation of the subfloor, it will not be superfluous to make outer walls small (about 10 * 10 cm) ventilation vents. This will improve the microclimate in the cellar, additionally prevent an increase in humidity and, as a result, avoid damage. mold fungus wooden structures.

Having finished preparatory work, first of all, you need to check the condition of the supporting elements - beams, logs, support columns.

Having identified areas of mold damage, carefully clean the surface with a spatula, sandpaper (popularly called “skin”), and then soak twice with antiseptic solutions. Then all accessible wooden elements should be abundantly impregnated with fire and bio-protective compositions and dried thoroughly.

If the foundation and plinth are built using concrete or brick (block), these areas need to be processed bituminous mastic to protect against moisture. If the works are carried out on days of high atmospheric humidity, it may be necessary to additionally dry them using heating equipment.

In some cases, a conventional household fan heater will suffice, but with large spaces subfloors may require a building heat gun. In no case do not use a gas or petrol / diesel heat gun, it is permissible to use only electric, and that should not be left unattended for safety reasons.

For insulation from below, it is rather inconvenient to perform work with rolled heat-insulating materials, such as mineral wool or isolon. And even more so, bulk materials are not suitable for these purposes - sawdust, expanded clay and the like. Therefore, preference should be given to insulation in sheets - foam, foam, and so on.

First of all, it is necessary to fix the vapor barrier material, in most cases it is a polyethylene film. For underfloor conditions, it is preferable to choose a film with a thickness of 350 microns or more, if possible even denser.

It must be fixed, observing a full fit with a construction stapler along the logs (beams), taking into account all irregularities, bends and height differences, in places of sagging, additionally fix it along the floor boards. Fragments of the film must be laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm on one another, fasten the edges with a wide adhesive tape. Overlap on walls and vertical structures - at least 25 cm.

After that, you need to proceed with the installation of heat-insulating material in the intervals between the lags. If possible, fragments of the heat insulator should be cut so that there are no extra gaps between them and the lags, and the insulation itself does not fall out. If necessary, if the fragment does not hold the edges of the logs, it can be temporarily fixed with self-tapping screws, and the gap between its edges and the logs can be filled with mounting foam.

It should be remembered that the metal self-tapping screw has a very high thermal conductivity, therefore, after the building foam has hardened, they must all be removed.

Also, after the flooring of the heat-insulating material over the entire surface of the ceiling, all inevitably occurring gaps must be filled with mounting foam, and after it has hardened, cut off the protruding excess.

After that, to ensure a more reliable retention of the heat-insulating material, it is necessary to fix it from below with a light filing. Most economical option- fiberboard sheets, but low-grade plywood, edged boards and a number of other materials are also suitable. Do not use GKL ( drywall sheet) due to its high hygroscopicity and brittleness.

After completing the filing, you should fix another layer of vapor and waterproofing. You can also use plastic wrap. In this case, it is permissible to use isolon, foilizol and other composite materials.

Above

In this case, there are two options for insulation, radically different from one another:

• Without dismantling the floor covering. Logs are laid on the old floor, insulation is placed between them and a new floor covering is placed on top.
• With dismantling. In this case, the boards are marked, dismantled and taken out of the room where they are being repaired. The insulation is mounted between the existing joists, then the floor boards are installed back.

In the first case, the level of the floor rises - depending on the technology used, by a height of 10 to 25, and in some cases even 30 cm. This method is more cost-effective and reduces the usable volume of the room. But if the budget allows and the ceilings are high enough, this option can significantly reduce the time to complete the work.

In the second case, the floor height remains at the same level, but the builder will need more work and time.

Whichever option is chosen, before starting all work, all furniture must be removed from the room, the floor must be freed from carpet or other covering, and the baseboard must be removed.

First you need to check the condition of the floor boards. Elements damaged by rotting or affected by mold must be replaced, unstable elements must be fixed. Primer should be applied to old boards, antiseptic impregnations and dry, if necessary, use additional heat sources for this.

As with the inspection of the underground space, areas affected by the fungus, but retaining their strength, must be cleaned to healthy wood and soaked abundantly with antiseptics.

Experienced builders recommend using for these purposes a composition that is practical and completely safe for humans and pets, but so unloved by rodents and woodworm insects - a cool solution of ordinary table salt. To prepare it, salt is added to hot water until it stops stirring.

The parts of the board previously cleaned from mold damage from the outside are thickly spilled with hot saline. The gaps found between the boards or cracks in them must be filled with construction foam, leveled on top with an oil or acrylic-based putty. After drying, lay a waterproofing material - a plastic film or penofol, glue the joints with a wide adhesive tape.

After that, the lags are laid. You should choose a timber from coniferous wood, the minimum section of which is 50 * 50mm. However, if the floor of the lower floor is insulated and at the same time enhanced thermal insulation is required, then, accordingly, a beam of a larger section is required.

Preferred dried timber without visible deformations (without bends along any of the axes), chips and other damage. It is important to consider that between the insulation and the top board there should be a gap of 1 - 2 cm for natural air microcirculation and humidity compensation, so the height of the material for the log must be calculated with a margin.

As a frame, in addition to timber, it is permissible to use an edged board with a thickness of 50 mm or more of the appropriate width, mounted on an edge (the wider side will be located vertically) - in this case, a more rigid fastening of the boards to the floor is required. You may need metal corners with a shelf length of at least half the width of the board: for example, if a board with a section of 50 * 120 mm is selected for installation on an edge, then the length of the metal corner shelf must be at least 60 mm. The installation step of the corners is no more than 1 meter.

It is strongly not recommended to use unedged materials, since larvae or even adults of wood-boring insects can be preserved in wane (bark residues) on wood, and, unfortunately, it is not always possible to eliminate them with the help of bioprotective impregnations.

Laying should begin from the highest site selected using the building level. The lag laying scheme is quite simple. The step must be kept constant - from 50 to 60 cm. Horizontalness should be observed as far as possible, if necessary, placing rigid inserts resistant to moisture and fungus from below. Logs are attached to the floor with self-tapping screws in increments of 100-120 cm.

Heat-insulating material is placed in the space between the lags. When insulating from above, the choice is no longer limited to sheet insulation. In this case, it is possible to lay not boards on the floor, but plywood of sufficient thickness, then the floor will last even a little longer.

Do-it-yourself algorithm

Insulation from above with the dismantling of the floor boards implies that the floor boards have been checked, their condition is satisfactory and they do not need to be replaced.

Before dismantling, the boards must be marked, indicating their order and orientation, since in the case of tongue-and-groove boards or tongue-and-groove fastening, an orientation error will violate their mutual fastening. The indication of the upper side will be the surface on which the marking is applied.

Dismantling must be done with the utmost care, without damaging the material. If the boards are screwed with self-tapping screws, they all need to be unscrewed and only then lifted one at a time, starting from the edge of the room.

Some difficulty in finding attachment points with self-tapping screws can create old paint if the floor has been painted. A simple way will help with this - using a magnet, possibly from an old speaker (column). Although today a more powerful neodymium magnet is relatively inexpensive. With its help, there is a self-tapping screw head, the paint is peeled off with a spatula and the self-tapping screw is unscrewed.

Dismantling is performed a little differently if the boards are nailed. In no case should you try to remove the nails with pliers or a nail puller, this will only damage the board. Nail heads are also easily located with a magnet, these places are marked with a marker.

The builders of the “old school” use an ax to dismantle the boards: they carefully wedge it between the lag and the board, without damaging either one or the other, and lift the edge of the board with a slight wiggle.

You can use a pry bar or a flat-tipped nail puller. There is no need to try to lift the entire board at once, wedging with an ax in only one place, the wood can split from this.

It is necessary to raise the board at each attachment point to a small height, then go along the board again, repeating this operation. When the edge is already noticeably raised, place an additional support under the tool and raise the entire board. Wherein it is important to ensure that the tongue or tongue of the board is not damaged.

Old nails must be knocked out with a hammer from the side of the point, and when the head of the nail rises above the board, remove it with tongs or pliers. Having removed the boards, the builder opens the logs and, if their condition is satisfactory, lays a plastic film using a construction stapler, fastens the joints with adhesive tape and mounts the heat-insulating material.

In both cases, with open logs, they should be impregnated with fire and bioprotective substances and dried thoroughly before laying the insulation.

If bulk material is used - whether it be sawdust, wood concrete granules, expanded clay or any other, it is necessary to carefully level the layer of insulating material, avoiding too loose laying or, conversely, excessive compaction, fill in all irregularities and cracks. In the case of using rolled materials, you should try to cut in accordance with the geometry of the space between the lags, avoid tearing and crushing, and do not leave voids.

It should be remembered that many rolled heat-insulating materials lose their properties when wet and turn from a heat insulator into heat conductors. When working with sheet material, you should try to cut as accurately as possible, avoid bending sheets, fill gaps and voids with mounting foam.

At the end of the laying of the heat insulator, regardless of how hygroscopic the material is, it is necessary to lay a polyethylene or other moisture-proof film again, and only after that mount the boards.

Thermal insulation materials

The modern market offers a fairly wide selection of materials for thermal insulation, and the inexperienced home master it can be difficult to choose the most suitable wood floor insulation.

In addition to the price, each type of material has its own advantages, and some have obvious disadvantages:

• Penoplex. Sheet insulation, produced in a fairly wide range of thicknesses. Sufficiently durable and at the same time easily processed material with high heat-insulating characteristics, resistant to moisture and mechanical stress. For ease of installation, it is available in a tongue-and-groove version. Afraid of high temperatures and organic solvents. Unattractive to rodents and insects.
• Styrofoam. Unlike the older brother - penoplex, it is softer, less resistant to moisture, and can crumble when cutting. At the same time, it has a much lower density and, as a result, a somewhat greater heat-insulating ability. Unlike penoplex and EPPS, it does not contain styrenes in its composition, that is, it is somewhat safer when used in living rooms.

• EPPS- extruded polystyrene foam. In fact, this is the same penoplex, but with slight differences in production technology. In terms of characteristics, it is neither inferior nor superior to it.
• Sawdust. This bulk material is very cheap, in some cases even free, as it is actually a waste product. One of the most environmentally friendly and safe materials for humans and pets. It should be remembered that sawdust cannot be laid in its pure form, otherwise the invasion of rodents and insects cannot be avoided. Sawdust must be mixed with cement or clay, while adding fire retardant, antiseptic and antifungal solutions. Sawdust is intolerant of dampness and, without proper processing and moisture insulation, is easily susceptible to rotting and mold damage. Over time, they become caked, losing their insulating qualities.
• Expanded clay. Lightweight porous bulk material made of baked clay, which is why it is absolutely harmless. Resistant to high temperatures. Expanded clay does not have closed pores, which is why it is hygroscopic and needs high-quality waterproofing.

• Penofol. It is a foamed polyethylene coated on one side (rarely on both sides) aluminum foil. It has high moisture resistance, in terms of heat-insulating characteristics it is noticeably inferior to polystyrene foam. Very sensitive to even slight heat. It is not damaged by a fungus, it is not subject to rotting. When using, one feature should be taken into account - the foil side should be facing a warm room.
• Izospan. High-quality material for vapor and waterproofing. Used as a protection against moisture, it allows wooden structures to "breathe", that is, it does not interfere with air exchange with the environment. combustible Resistant to fungal attack.
• Izolon. Foamed polyethylene without foil. Due to the peculiarities of production, it is not produced with a thickness of more than 7 mm, therefore, it does not have a heat insulator practical application. At the same time, it is a high-quality waterproofing material with some soundproofing properties. Sensitive to high temperatures, resistant to fungus, not damaged by rodents or insects.

• Ecowool. Cellulose-based extrusion material. It is rarely used in private housing construction, as it requires specialized equipment and trained personnel for application. Unfortunately, it is not uncommon for a contractor to violate the formulation of the original composition in order to reduce the cost, as a result of which this material is of high thermal insulation characteristics over time, it begins to evaporate toxic substances into the environment.
• polyurethane foam, like cellulose ecowool, requires specialized equipment for application. The composition does not use harmful substances. During hardening, it forms closed pores, which excludes any evaporation of substances into the environment. On the part of the contractor is not subject to violation of the recipe. Frost- and heat-resistant, not subject to rotting, mold, fungal attack. It has high noise and heat insulating characteristics.
• Mineral wool. One of the most undemanding and easy to use heat-insulating materials. It is afraid of moisture, but after drying it restores its properties. Thanks to the filling with mineral chips, it eliminates damage by rodents or insects, and the absence of organic fillers prevents rotting or mold damage. Easily wrinkled material, therefore requires careful handling

When choosing an insulating material, it is imperative to read the instructions for use attached to it. This document details the characteristics: thermal conductivity, allowable temperature range, humidity, and so on.

Typical mistakes

In some cases, builders, relying on the moisture resistance of the material declared by the manufacturer, neglect additional waterproofing. At sharp drops temperatures in high humidity environments, condensation can form, as can water flowing directly from the room through cracks in the floor. When freezing, water causes cracking or rupture of pores in the material, which drastically reduces the heat-insulating qualities.

When insulating the floor of the first floor with foam, the material is sometimes left open. The fact is that mice often gnaw on foam plastic, taking away its crumbs and “insulating” their holes with it. This approach helps to preserve the vapor barrier layer and, if necessary, update the heat insulator sheets without any problems.

It happens that the builder saves on adhesive tape and leaves an overlap polyethylene film loose. The moisture contained in the air penetrates through the edges of the film into the mineral wool and it becomes damp. That's why It is important to monitor compliance with the technology of work by employees.

Examples of successful designs

Consider the following:

• The classic "pie" when insulated from above with the use of a screed under the finished floor.

• Installation of the log "in a row", backfilling with expanded clay on top of the film, covered with plywood.

• High-quality filling of gaps between lags and sheets with construction foam.
• Laying slabs in the space between the beams on top of the isospan layer.

• The use of wide boards mounted on the edge.
• Double-sided mineral wool waterproofing.

The process of building a private wooden house consists of several stages, one of which is associated with the device of the floor structure. Its variety is chosen at the design stage of the structure and many factors are taken into account. About what are the floors in a wooden house, and the features of their designs will be discussed in this article.

The floor on the ground floor in a wooden house, when unheated basement, has its own characteristics. In this regard, several types of structures can be distinguished:

1. Cold floor construction, arranged on an earthen base (without underground). The device of this kind of cold floor is possible only if there is dry soil under the building and a high location of the floors of the lower floor, under which a layer of compacted sand is laid. On top of it is poured another layer of clean, calcined, dry sand. Logs made of coniferous timber with a thickness of more than 150 mm are buried in the formed soil base and abut against special recesses in the walls of the house. From above, a single boardwalk is performed, the thickness of which is from 30 to 40 mm.

2. A warm floor with a cold underground is recommended in areas where there is a high level of groundwater. Such a construction is arranged as follows:

• cleaned sand with a layer of 10 - 15 cm is laid on the ground in the underground and rammed;
• install supports with a height of at least 50 cm. To do this, you can pour concrete mortar in vertically buried pipes metal frame required height;
• a double layer of waterproofing material and wooden slabs 3 cm thick are laid on top of the supports;
• load-bearing beams are laid.

For thermal insulation, it is necessary to mount a subfloor laid on rails nailed to the ends of the log. For flooring, cut unedged boards are used. Then a layer of vapor barrier and insulation are laid. After that, a plank floor is laid over the beams.

3. The device of a cold floor with a warm underfloor is recommended where the soil has a low level of soil water. In the same way as in the previously described method, the structure is installed, but the stage of installing a subfloor with insulation is skipped and a clean floor is installed.

What should be a wooden house

The floor in a wooden house must be strong, durable, warm and even, with an aesthetic appearance.

When performing work on the installation of the floor in a wooden house on their own, they take into account the above requirements, and also determine the procedure for performing the upcoming work, take into account the characteristics of the structure of the building and the individual characteristics of the operation of the house. First, you need to consider different floor options that can be installed in a wooden house, study their pros and cons, and, taking into account the operating conditions, choose the appropriate option.

An important criterion that the floor must meet is its evenness. Regardless of the floor material, it must meet the standards of sanitary and hygienic, constructive, operational and aesthetic requirements.

Floor types

Floors in wooden houses are made of wood or concrete - the most common building materials. The technology of the “heat-insulated floor system” device can also be implemented.

Now in the construction market there are several varieties of "warm floors". They differ in the type of coolant and work efficiency. We will tell in our article.

Concrete floor

A popular way to obtain an even base in a relatively short time consists in pouring concrete screed. If it may take a month to completely dry the screed, then the installation of a new wooden one will take longer.

The advantages of concrete floors are as follows:

1. In a significant reduction in the cost of the finishing coating device.
2. After the screed dries, an even base is obtained, but which can be laid with any finishing material.
3. With an initially high-quality screed, additional alignment before the finishing stage of work may not be necessary, which will save time, physical strength and material costs.
4. The screed device can be done independently, without the involvement of specialists.

How to equip a concrete floor in a private house on your own in two main options - on the ground and on the floors - you will learn

Among the shortcomings can be noted big weight monolithic floor structure and, as a result, an increase in the load on the foundation. Therefore, the necessary calculations of the foundation are performed at the design stage of the house. Another nuance is that when the walls vibrate, cracking of the screed is possible, which will lead to heat loss. Therefore, when installing a warm floor, it is necessary to perform high-quality thermal insulation of the base.

Wooden floor

Another common material for flooring in a wooden house is natural wood. Its advantages include the following:

1. Environmentally friendly material with a rich natural pattern.
2. Wood is safe because it does not contain harmful additives, it is completely natural and does not release harmful toxins into the environment.
3. Aesthetic appearance and organic combination of wood with the rest of the building surfaces, while the concrete floor will look unnatural.
4. When installing a wooden floor, you can refuse other finishing materials. With the help of varnishes, oils, stains and other impregnations, a wooden finishing base can become stronger, more durable and acquire an original, noble appearance.
5. Wood is very durable and, depending on the breed, you can choose a material with one or another operational properties and invoice.

The undeniable quality of natural wood gives an atmosphere of warmth and comfort, creates an optimal microclimate and comfort in the house.

Important! The wooden floor is repairable. For current repair its fragment does not require the dismantling of the entire flooring; a separate fragment can be replaced. This will require a minimum set of tools and construction skills.

Of the minuses of a wooden floor, the high cost of the material is noted, the laboriousness of its installation. In addition, getting a perfectly even base can be quite difficult.

Which is better - concrete or wood

At the design stage of a private house, it is necessary to immediately decide what the floor will be - wooden or concrete. To choose the most suitable option, you need to know what the difference between such floors is.

Price

To pour a 5 cm thick screed, you will need 0.5 bags of cement (300 rubles / mesh) and 1.5 (50 rubles / mesh) bags of sand. Thus, 1 m 2 of the screed will cost an average of 225 rubles. If the work will be performed by a hired person, then the cost of the work must be added to this amount - 250 rubles / m 2.

If we take a dry timber 10 x 10 cm as a basis, in increments of 40 cm (400 rubles / m 2) and OSB boards(600 rubles / m 2) 18 mm thick. With the work of a carpenter, the cost will be 1250 rubles / m 2.

Communications

AT modern houses the heating, water supply and sewerage system is laid inside the floor structure. In the event of a pipe break, wooden ones can be quickly cut and accessed to communications. With concrete floors it is more difficult - to remove the screed you will have to use professional tool, and the process itself will take a lot of time and effort.

Timing

The screed gains full strength within 28 days from the date of pouring. Moreover, it gains 70% strength in the first week. All this time, the solution gives off moisture and nothing can be laid on it.

The wooden floor can be used immediately after installation.

Durability

If the laying of the wooden floor is not carried out by a professional master, then after a couple of weeks you can hear a characteristic creak when walking on the floor. This disadvantage is deprived of a concrete screed. Moreover, when the work is performed by hired workers, the result and the quality of their work can be assessed immediately.

Weight

The weight of 1m 2 OSB-sheet 18 mm thick is 12 kg, logs per 1 m 2 weigh about 25 kg, depending on the type of wood. Thus, 1 m 2 of a wooden floor will weigh about 40 kg. A 1m 2 screed with a thickness of 5 cm weighs 100 kg.

The process of erecting floors on poles

When erecting such a floor, the following procedure must be followed:

1. Prepare the base. For this, marking and excavation of the soil with a plant layer is carried out. The resulting recess is covered with rubble, and on top with sand, which is then rammed.
2. Then, brick support pillars are installed, taking into account the basic design requirements regarding the height of the mark of the finished floor and the structure below it.
3. It is mandatory to take into account the ratio of the height of the supporting column and the section of the brick. So, with a support height of 25 cm and above, the recommended width of the support column is equal to two bricks.
4. It is necessary to start installing supports first along the perimeter of the future premises, and then within the specified boundaries.
5. On the upper plane of each column I lay two layers of roofing material to ensure the waterproofing of the structure.
6. Then the wooden linings are fixed. Logs from logs or timber are installed on them. The width of their spacing relative to each other is chosen depending on the width of the floor boards to be laid.
7. Slag filling, which does not reach a lag of 5 cm in height, is used in order to exclude the mobility of the floor structure in the cold season when the soil freezes. The remaining free space provides ventilation of the structure.

Flooring on top of the installed logs is done with the help of boards, which begin to be laid, stepping back 1.5 cm from the wall. The resulting gap performs a ventilation function, which is very important for the correct and long-term operation of a natural wood floor.

Boards are attached to the joists with long nails hammered at an angle of 45 degrees. While the wood is not completely dry, install temporary skirting boards.

Single layer floor

The single floor structure can be placed on pillars as described above. Only on top of the sopors are beams, on top of which the flooring is made of tongue and groove boards.

The second option is to install the floor along the beams cut into the body of the load-bearing enclosing structures of the building. Beams act as the basis for the floor, and brick supports are no longer required.

Due to the large free distance between the beams, the fastening of the flooring from the boards is carried out along the crate:

1. The crate is made from timber with square section 5-6 cm.
2. The step of the timber in the crate depends on the thickness of the floor board. The smaller the thickness of the board, the smaller the distance between the lags.
3. It is important to control its horizontal position during the installation of the crate, so that in the end you get an even plank covering.
4. The fastening of the boards begins after all the logs are installed in their places and securely fixed with nails.
5. If it is not intended to lay additional flooring on top decorative coating- laminate, tile, linoleum, then it is fair.
6. After the single flooring is mounted, it is covered with two layers of protective varnish.

Advice. If the flooring is rough, then an unedged board can be used for its installation.

In the manufacture of a single floor, serious professional skills, serious time and financial costs are not required. But its disadvantage is low thermal insulation properties.

The optimal solution for arranging the floor in a wooden house is a two-layer structure, consisting of a rough and finishing layer. Installation of such a structure occurs in the following way:

1. The black floor is mounted from an unedged board up to 4.5 cm thick, treated with an antiseptic composition. In this case, preference should be given to coniferous wood - it is durable, resistant to moisture, dampness and decay.
2. The boards are laid tightly to each other, and a layer of thermal insulation made of mineral wool, foam plastic, expanded clay or sawdust is laid on top.
3. In addition to insulation, it is necessary to perform vapor and waterproofing of the structure in order to extend its service life.
4. Clean floor boards are laid, as for other types of structures, leaving a gap between them with a black floor of 1.5 cm.

A clean floor can function finish coat or serve as a basis for laying a decorative floor covering, which will not only decorate the room, but also increase the thermal insulation properties of the floor.

Start of work - installation of the subfloor

Draft floor at the device boardwalk is needed for several reasons:

1. To increase the operational life of the structure due to the presence good ventilation gender.
2. It performs the function of a solid base for laying insulation and finishing floor.
3. Makes the frame of the structure more rigid.

Before starting work on the installation of a draft structure, check the following:

1. The wood chosen as the material for the subfloor device must have an optimal moisture level - this will eliminate the possible deformation of the structure during its subsequent operation.
2. Boards should not have pronounced defects.
3. If an inexpensive board can be used for a subfloor, then for a finished floor it is purchased with a margin so that later you do not have to look for material of the same shade.

Training

Installation of the subfloor can be carried out both on the ground and on floors. In any case, it is necessary to perform a set of preparatory measures:

1. The walls of the building must be equipped with ventilation windows, closed from the outside with special gratings.
2. All wooden details treated with antiseptic compounds to increase the service life of the structure.
3. Given the size of the room in which the floor will be mounted, calculate the required amount of material.
4. Throughout all work, it is important to monitor the horizontal position of the floor structure in order to exclude the formation of a slope.
5. The beam and logs are subject to processing, in which they are cut to eliminate slopes and bevels.

Subfloor laying

So that the floor does not creak, does not vibrate, is even and warm, it is necessary to give Special attention laying the subfloor and, first of all, the lags.

The logs should be hung on the beam supports in increments of 60 cm - a heater will be laid in the formed gap. It is not worth saving on beams in order to avoid deflection and vibration of the floor during operation.

Where heavy equipment, such as a stove or fireplace, will subsequently be installed, the floor is reinforced by placing beams in 30 cm increments.

Fastenings in such places are also additionally reinforced.

At the bottom, bars are nailed across the beams. Between floors, the beams are nailed along the beams - this will save the height of the room and, if necessary, use the upper beams as a decorative element in the interior after their additional finishing.

An OSB sheet is laid on the bars in the gap.

After that, mineral wool slabs are laid in a checkerboard pattern, and on top there is a continuous layer of vapor barrier, which covers the logs and is fixed with a construction stapler. The seam of the vapor barrier is glued with adhesive tape.

The second layer of vapor barrier is overlapped, and a ventilation gap is formed on top. To do this, use a bar 40 x 100 mm, screwed to the floor logs. A finishing floor will be mounted on top of these bars.

Important! All wooden elements must be treated with antiseptic compounds.

Video - Wooden floor insulation

Finished floor laying

To obtain an aesthetically attractive and durable finished floor, it is recommended to use a milled board with a tongue and groove fastening.

Table 1. Instructions for laying a finished floorboard

Illustration	Description
	The first board is laid with a groove against the wall, leaving a compensation gap.
	It must be fixed with self-tapping screws so that you can later close the attachment point with a plinth. There are 2 options for further fastening the boards.
	In the first option, self-tapping screws are used, which are twice as long as the floor board.
	Self-tapping screws are screwed into each lag in the center of the board. Subsequently, the hats can be masked with wood putty.
	Then take the next board and combine the spike with the groove.
	If necessary, the boards are adjusted by hitting the block with a mallet.
	Or pressed with a chisel.
	The second mounting option is to screw the screws at an angle of 45 degrees into the spike. To prevent the board from bursting, you must first drill a hole for the self-tapping screw.
	With this option, the boards adjoin each other more tightly, and the fasteners are invisible.

After all the boards are laid, their surface is sanded and coated with wear-resistant varnish in several layers.

Concrete floor in a wooden house

The most common way to install a concrete floor in a wooden house is to pour it over the ground, but with the obligatory condition that the ground must be dry.

Stage 1 - preparation

Preparatory work includes the following steps:

1. Using a level, determine the main indicators and calculate earthworks.
2. In order to prevent soil subsidence and cracking of the concrete floor in the future, the soil is carefully rammed with the help of special devices.
3. A well-packed sand cushion is made on the ground. The bedding will be denser if the material is poured in excess of the required volume by 25%, moistened and thoroughly compacted with a roller or vibrator.
4. Expanded clay or gravel layer is laid on the sand.

Stage 2 - waterproofing

The next step is to perform , so that it does not absorb moisture from the concrete screed, and it will also protect the floor from ground moisture. For this, bitumen-based roll materials are used. You can use a thick plastic film.

The waterproofing material is laid with an overlap, leading it to the wall by 20 cm, and then the joints are glued with adhesive tape. It is important that the material is homogeneous, without damage.

An alternative method is the coating method, when mastic waterproofing is applied at the stage of filling the subfloor.

Stage 3 - pouring the black floor

A black or technological floor serves as the basis for a hydro- and vapor barrier layer. For its manufacture, concrete of class B7.5 - B10 and crushed stone 50-20 in size are used. There are no strict rules for pouring the rough layer, the main thing is that its thickness is about 50 mm, and the difference does not exceed 4 mm.

Stage 4 - vapor barrier and insulation

A vapor barrier material is laid on top of the subfloor in the form of inexpensive fiberglass or polyester membranes. durable material, not afraid of rotting, are PVC membranes. Insulation is laid on the vapor barrier - this allows you to increase the energy efficiency of the dwelling by 20%. The following materials can be used as a heater:

1. Mineral wool, the density of which does not exceed 120 kg / m 3. So that it does not accumulate cotton wool, it is isolated with polyethylene.
2. Where the floor is subjected to heavy loads, it is recommended to use extruded polystyrene foam, which deforms during compression and then returns to its original state.
3. When using foam to give strength, it is covered on all sides with polyethylene.

Stage 5 - final screed

At the final stage, the final screed is performed, which will become the basis for the decorative floor covering. It can be monolithic or dry. In the first case, a solution with a large filler in the form of crushed stone, stones, small pebbles or a cement-sand composition (quartz sand) is poured using lighthouses. Start pouring the screed from the far corner of the room, leveling the solution with the rule. Complete drying of the screed occurs after 30 days.

An alternative is a dry screed based on fiberboard, plywood and asbestos-cement sheets, GKLV. The technology is simple and fast:

1. Lined with plastic wrap.
2. A technological gap of 1 cm is left along the walls, into which soundproofing material is placed.
3. Perform a sand backfill 5 cm thick.
4. The sheet material is laid in two layers and securely fixed to each other using self-tapping screws or building glue.
5. Perform puttying and grinding of joints.

Finishing materials

The material for finishing the floor in a wooden house is selected depending on the interior solution. If the appearance of the house inside retains the flavor of natural wood, which is not hidden behind other finishes on the walls and ceiling, then the flooring should be organically combined with it.

Table 2. Types of flooring

Prices for popular types of piece parquet

piece parquet

A wooden house is distinguished by a special atmosphere of home comfort and warmth, so natural, natural materials look natural in its walls.

Wooden floors allow you to keep warm in the house with the use of minimal technical and material means. It is thanks to this feature that such floors have remained and remain the most common throughout their centuries-old history and do not yield their leadership even to the most modern high-tech flooring and coatings.

Floors made of high-quality wood, with proper care, retain their performance characteristics for centuries, are relatively inexpensive, versatile (they can be installed on any type of base), harmless to the human body and look very impressive. If necessary, they themselves can serve as the basis for a different type of flooring. In addition, wooden floors are quite easy to install and can be installed in a private house or apartment by just one person.

General principles for wooden floors

Directly sexual boards are always laid on logs, but the logs themselves can be laid both on a concrete or even earthen base, and on supports - usually they are brick, wooden or metal poles. Rarely, but still, a technology is used in which the ends of the log are embedded in opposite walls or laid on specially provided ledges near the walls and are operated without intermediate supports. However, in this case, it is very difficult to block wide spans - logs of a very large cross section and weight are required, and it is almost impossible to install them correctly alone ...

Installation of wooden floors concrete base practically no different from the arrangement of floors in an apartment with floors made of reinforced concrete slabs. Much more difficult is the case with floor installation on the first floor of a private house, since in this case it is highly desirable to arrange a ventilated and DRY underground. Its presence largely determines the strength and durability of the finished floor, especially in cases of high groundwater.

A few words about the tool

From the chosen method of floor installation depends on what tool you need for work. But in any case, you can not do without:

• laser level; in extreme cases, you can use the hydraulic level, but you will need an assistant to work with it;
• conventional or cross construction bubble level not less than 1 meter long; the cross level is preferable, since it allows you to align the plane simultaneously in two directions;
• hammer weighing no more than 500 g;
• chain or circular saw, or a good hacksaw.
• jointer and (or) grinders.

The usual carpentry tool will not be superfluous - a square, a small ax, a planer, a chisel, a nail puller.

Floor installation on support poles

Traditionally, a wooden floor is assembled from the following "layers" (from bottom to top):

• the basis of all flooring is logs;
• rough ("lower") floor;
• waterproofing layer;
• thermal insulation layer;
• directly wooden floor (finishing flooring);
• finishing flooring.

This whole multi-layered "sandwich" is usually kept on supporting pillars - concrete, brick, wood or metal.

Installation of brick pillars

The best choice today is brick pillars that have acceptable strength characteristics, are quite affordable from a financial point of view and do not require much labor during construction. The only limitation is the height of such supporting pillars should not exceed 1.5 m; if it is larger, in order to maintain the strength of the supports, it will be necessary to increase their cross section, which will lead to a sharp increase in the required amount of bricks and, accordingly, an increase in material costs for construction. With a height of pillars up to 50-60 cm, a section of 1x1 brick is enough, with a height of 0.6-1.2 m, the section is made at least 1.5x1.5 bricks, columns up to 1.5 m high are laid out at least 2x2 bricks.

Anyway under the brick supports it is necessary to pour concrete "pyataks", the area of ​​​​which exceeds the cross-sectional area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe columns by at least 10 cm in each direction. The distance between the centers of the platforms is selected within 0.7-1 m ALONG the log and 0.8-1.2 m BETWEEN the logs with a section of 100 ... 150x150 mm. After marking, holes about half a meter deep are pulled out in the places where the pillars are erected; the main thing is that the bottom should be below the fertile layer of the earth. At the bottom of these mini-pits, a sand and gravel "cushion" is made, on which the concrete mixture is poured. It is desirable that the surface of the resulting "penny" is a few centimeters above ground level.

It is at the stage of laying out the supporting pillars the horizontality of the future floor is laid, and it is at this stage that it is best to use laser level. With its help, the level of the LOWER EDGE of the LAG plus 1 cm is marked on the walls, a construction cord is stretched between opposite walls along this level, and the height of the pillars is already adjusted to its level. It is not necessary to bring it strictly down to a millimeter - a gap of a couple of centimeters is quite acceptable. When calculating the total thickness of the floor, it should be taken into account that at least its upper plane must be above the level of the basement of the building - otherwise it will be extremely difficult to avoid "cold bridges".

Some features of the pillars

It is worth considering them the presence of fasteners for beams-lag. Usually, as such fasteners, vertical “studs” imbedded in 10-20 cm with thread or anchor bolts- later, through holes are drilled in the logs in the appropriate places, with which the beams are “put on” on the resulting pins, and are attracted by nuts with washers. The protruding excess of the "thread" is cut off by the "grinder".

The lateral surfaces of the columns and, especially, their upper plane on which the lag will be laid, preferably cover with a layer of durable plaster- it will additionally strengthen the structure and play the role of additional waterproofing. On the surface of the finished columns is laid 2-3 layers of small pieces of roofing material.

After the masonry mortar has completely dried and hardened (it takes about a week), logs can already be laid on the finished support pillars.

Laying lag on brick columns

The length of the lag is selected depending on the design of the floor. When laying on supporting pillars, there are only two options for such structures - “floating” and rigid.

Floating or hard floors?

In the first case, the entire "sandwich" of the floor lies and rests exclusively on the posts, without being rigidly tied to the walls or. In the second, the ends of the log are rigidly attached to the walls in one way or another; this design virtually eliminates the “walking” of the flooring, but when the building subsides, it may well lead to deformation of the finished floors.

With a "floating" version of the floor, the length of the log is 3-5 cm less than the distance from wall to wall. In the second case, the gap should be no more than 2 cm - otherwise the logs will be difficult to rigidly attach to the walls. If necessary, logs can be made from two or more pieces, connecting them into "half-paws" - but the joint must necessarily fall on the support post and be nailed or (for a lag section of up to 10x100 mm) screwed with self-tapping screws.

If the final length of the lag is less than three meters, then they can be laid directly on the supports (not forgetting the roofing material waterproofing gaskets!); however, it is much better between the roofing material and the lower plane of the beam-lag to lay flat a piece of board with a thickness of 25-50 mm. In the case of butt lags, this must be done!

Log alignment

After laying out the lag on the prepared support pillars, they must be "set" in level. This is done as follows: using wooden spacers small thickness two extreme beams are laid strictly horizontally, according to a pre-calculated and marked height level. Gaskets are still used only on the extreme support pillars, while you can ignore the intermediate ones. The ends of the exposed logs are nailed to the walls; in the case of "floating" floors, this fastening will be temporary.

On both sides, at a distance of 0.3-0.5 m from the walls, on the upper planes of the laid lag tightly the construction cord is pulled. All other intermediate beams are displayed on it; then, if necessary, gaskets are installed between the remaining posts and lags. ALL gaskets must be RIGIDLY tied (nailed) to the joists, and, if possible, to the support posts. The beams should lie tightly on the pillars, in extreme cases, gaps of no more than 2 mm are allowed - but not on adjacent pillars.

Draft floor

After laying the log, a draft floor is made. To do this, along the entire length of the lower cut of the log, a narrow bar (“cranial” bar) is nailed on each side of it. Raw boards are laid on it between the lags, equal to the distance between the lags. After laying, these boards are “solid” covered with a vapor barrier film, on which insulation is applied or poured. From above, everything is completely covered with a windproof cloth.

Underfloor ventilation

When installing the floor on brick pillars in underground space ventilation must be provided- forced (with a large cubic capacity of the underground) or natural. An obligatory element of such ventilation is the so-called "perfume": Through holes in or walls below floor level. Such openings should be available around the perimeter of the building and under internal partitions, the distance between them should not exceed 3 m.

The dimensions of the vents are usually chosen 10x10 cm, the center of the hole should be at a height of 0.3-0.4 m from the ground level (above the thickness of the winter snow cover). Be sure to provide for the possibility of overlapping the ducts in the winter. In addition, in order to protect against rodents, the openings of the vents are closed with a mesh with a fine mesh.

When unless the underground is too deep(no more than 0.5 m) and the installation of products is difficult, ventilation holes are made in the floor itself - usually in the corners. These openings are covered with decorative grilles and must always be open.

How to properly lay floors

Before laying the floorboards, the insulation is covered with a windproof sheet. The choice of board depends on what kind of surface the finished floor will be. If it is conceived as natural, a tongue-and-groove floorboard (with a lock) is required; if linoleum or laminate is to be laid, it is quite possible to get by with the usual edged board. BUT IN ANY CASE THE WOOD MUST BE WELL DRY!

We fasten the grooved board to the lags

The first board is placed with a gap of 1-1.5 cm from the wall, and not close to it, with a spike to the wall. Next boards they are pressed against the previous ones with the help of some kind of stop (clamps, for example) and a pair of wooden wedges. Boards, especially if they are thicker than 25 mm, are nailed - self-tapping screws are not suitable in this case, they do not attract the board to upper surface lags. The specified gap of 1-1.5 cm must be maintained around the entire perimeter of the room. The existing joints of the ends of the floorboards must be staggered.

Floor finishing

After laying the floorboard, the floor is ready for finishing, which consists in its sanding (sanding) and coating with paint or varnish. It is almost impossible to do this manually - you should use an electric jointer or grinder. After this very dusty procedure, all “opened” Treat cracks and crevices between boards with wood putty made on the basis of drying oil. The last operation before painting is fixing the baseboard around the perimeter of the room.

The polished surface is painted or varnished, for example, yacht; modern paints and varnishes allow you to imitate almost any type of wood or material surface. Usually at least two layers of coating are applied, a paint roller and a good respirator are used for work. If you want to get not a glossy, but a matte floor surface, you can use wax or oil.