Important nuances and features of the choice of materials in the manufacture of a fence with brick pillars. Do-it-yourself brick fence - step by step instructions! We build a brick fence with our own hands

Aesthetic and beautiful fencing gives the landscape of the site a finished and attractive look. In order for the design of the fence to perform not only decorative functions, but also to protect the territory from unwanted visitors and illegal intrusions, the fence must be of high quality, durable and reliable.

All these requirements are met by such a constructive material as brick. And if there is no desire or opportunity to build a fence made entirely of bricks, a fence with brick pillars will be an excellent solution. They increase the durability of any type of fence, and also give the landscape of the site an element of solidity.

It may seem that only a professional bricklayer can build brick pillars for a fence with his own hands. However, this impression is erroneous. Of course, an inexperienced home master will spend more time on brickwork than a master with many years of experience. However, with careful observance of technology, it is possible not only to build mine fence yourself, but also save a significant amount of money.

Brick for fence posts must be chosen carefully, and approach the issue of choice responsibly, since the strength of the entire structure depends on it. Most often, the two most popular types of bricks are used, the features of each of which are worth considering in more detail.

As a compromise option, a combination of two types of bricks is often used at once - this allows you to build reliable and beautiful brick pillars at no extra cost.

Having decided to equip a fence with brick pillars on your site, you must also determine what material the sections will be made of. There are a number of common options, such as:

The choice of material for filling sections directly depends both on the aesthetic preferences and financial capabilities of the owner, and on the design style of buildings and structures in the fenced area.

A few important nuances in the manufacture of a fence with brick pillars

Preparing tools and accessories for work

In order to perform high-quality laying of brick pillars for the fence, you will need a set of professional tools. You will definitely need:

10. Rubberized gloves. Without them, working with cement mortar is very harmful to the skin of the hands.

The construction of brick columns - detailed instructions

How to fold a brick column without experience in such work? You should carefully read each of the stages of work. When erecting brick columns, in addition to the recommendations of this instruction, one should take into account the individual features of the plan for installing the fence.

Terrain marking

1. It is necessary to prepare a site plan - a “red line” should be marked on it (a fence will be installed along it).
2. Determine the anchor point (usually one of the corners of the future fence) and drive in a piece of reinforcement or a small peg.
3. Determine the required width of the trench for the foundation and drive in the second peg at the required distance from the first.
4. At the opposite end of the future fence, you need to drive in two similar pegs.
5. Stretch and fasten two strings between the anchor points (if the fence is planned to be installed not on one, but on several sides of the site, these steps will need to be repeated for each of them).

trench preparation

1. It is necessary to dig a trench on the strip, which was determined in the process of marking the area. Its depth should be 350 - 450 mm.
2. Drill holes for reinforcing bars or metal support posts. The depth of each should be 50 - 70 cm, the width is calculated as the diameter of the support post plus 15 - 20 cm, the distance between the holes should be 2 - 2.5 m.
3. Pour a mixture of sand and gravel into the bottom of the trench, compact it as much as possible. The thickness of this pillow should be between 10 and 15 cm.
4. Sand should also be poured into the bottom of the holes - a layer 8–10 cm thick is enough. It also needs to be compacted.

1. Lay a layer of waterproofing material in the prepared holes.
2. Fasten from below on the sides of the metal cross-beam rack (this can be done by welding several pieces of large diameter reinforcement, metal corners or pipes).
3. Install the support vertically in the prepared hole (check the correct installation with a plumb line or level) and fix it.
4. Pour a solution into the hole around the rack - it will consist of a mixture of concrete with crushed stone.
5. Tamp the solution to remove air voids from it.
6. Allow the crushed stone-concrete mixture around the supports to harden.

Fence frame device

Curing concrete

1. Solidification and curing of concrete lasts about a month. For this period, work with the foundation tape must be suspended.
2. The next day after pouring the formwork, you need to pour the foundation with water. The procedure is repeated every day for two weeks.
3. After two weeks, the formwork can be removed.

Jumper device

These works can be carried out during the foundation curing period, but not earlier than 10 days after pouring.

1. At a height of 35 - 40 cm from the top of the racks, fix metal jumpers in a horizontal position.
2. Perform a similar operation at a height of 35 - 40 cm from the level of the foundation.
3. If the fence is planned to be of great height, you can arrange an additional row of jumpers in the middle.

Fence brick posts

These works are carried out only after the end of the "maturation" of the foundation tape.

1. Lay pieces of reinforcement along the perimeter of the planned row of bricks from all four sides.
2. While holding the segments, apply a layer of mortar to the foundation within the indicated perimeter and level it along the thickness of the reinforcement.
3. Lay the brick (the position can be checked with a level), to achieve a perfect result, it can be lightly tapped with a rubber mallet.
4. Set the fifth segment at the level of the outer edge of the brick.
5. While holding the reinforcement, grease the side of the brick with mortar.
6. Lay the next brick next to the first.
7. Remove the vertical piece of reinforcement from the seam, move it to the edge of the second brick, grease this edge with mortar and install the next brick.
8. Repeat the operation from paragraph 7 until the end of laying the horizontal row.
9. Remove the reinforcement from the seams - the remaining empty space between the bricks will need to be filled with mortar and the seams will be “jointed” after four rows have been laid out.
10. Lay the pieces of reinforcement on the finished row and apply a layer of mortar.
11. Repeat steps 3 - 10 until the masonry level reaches the planned post height.
12. Close the hole at the top of the support post with a metal plate, apply a layer of cement mortar on top.
13. On the laid out column, mount a protective cap on top of the column (the metal one must be fixed with dowels, and the concrete one must be fixed on the solution layer).

For clarity, we suggest watching a video on the construction of brick pillars for a fence:

Brick fence posts are ready. You can begin to install the fence spans on the previously mounted metal lintels.

*Note:

- bricklaying is carried out around the support posts;

- the consistency of the masonry mortar must be homogeneous, it must be applied in a thin layer. To achieve this effect, the sand must be carefully sifted through a sieve with small cells before being introduced into the masonry mortar.

If there is no experience at all with brickwork, then you should not immediately start laying out posts for the fence. You can practice a little - for example, lay out a small test brick wall or lay down a post in an inconspicuous place. The acquired skills will help you make beautiful and neat brick columns.

Currently, very often, in order to fence off the encroachments of intruders and just prying eyes, the owners of suburban areas erect brick fences. Practice shows that it is not so difficult to build a brick fence with your own hands, compared to the same stone fence.

It looks like a red brick fence

Due to the fact that brick blocks are very affordable, strong and durable, brick fences can be found everywhere. In addition, on the Internet you can find many building instructions, backed up by photos and videos, which explain in detail how to build a brick fence yourself.

Advantages of brick fences

Disadvantages of brick fences for the house

Let's consider how brick fences are inferior to other types of similar structures:

Differences of brick fences

Considering brick fences, there are several criteria by which they will differ:

Different types of fences made of brick blocks

Very often on personal plots you can see fences made not entirely of brick, but combined with other building materials. Such a device of fences can significantly reduce the cost of the structure. And if you consider that the brick is perfectly combined with all types of materials, then we can say that such combinations can make the fence more interesting and original.

An example of a combined fence made of decorative bricks and a forged fence

Here is an example of the most successful tandems:

• Fencing with brick pillars and wooden canvas;
• Fence with brick pillars and forged canvas;
• Fence with brick pillars and profiled sheets.

Combined fences can make the site unique, and the design of the fence - not so cluttered. Since combinations of materials significantly reduce the weight of the structure, the foundation for a brick fence can be columnar, which will save money.

Construction of a brick fence

In order to build a fence, you must have some building skills, as well as carefully study the process itself. In order not to lose sight of the important nuances, we will break the entire construction process into stages and consider each in detail.

• Preparatory work;
• foundation device;
• Fencing decoration.

Preparatory work

In order not to be distracted by trifles and speed up the construction process, it is best to take care of the availability of all the necessary fixtures and materials in advance.

At the preparatory stage, fence projects are often carried out in order to more clearly represent how the structure will look like, as well as to more accurately calculate the necessary materials and find out how many brick blocks are needed.

Foundation device

As already noted, the foundation for brick fences is usually made tape or columnar. Which foundation is best depends on the particular case. Let us analyze in detail the arrangement of the strip foundation.

Bricklaying

Since this stage of construction is the most important, it is necessary to provide all the conditions for its start, including waiting for the foundation to completely solidify. Usually they wait about a day, and in the case of the construction of powerful and high fences - two to three days. Let's discuss some of the subtleties of how to build a brick fence.

The laying of a brick fence is carried out according to the standard scheme.

1. The corners are drawn first. To do this, you must have a building level at hand.
2. Next, the construction of the walls begins. The first row is laid directly on the base, or plinth. Its horizontal position must be carefully controlled, because the quality of subsequent rows will depend on it.
3. After a certain distance - usually two meters - pillars are erected. The lower part of the fence provides for the design of the basement.
4. After laying, it remains to embroider the seams, as well as treat them with a special composition.

Fence decoration

When the fence laying process is completed, you can start decorating work if the projects require it. If facing brick was used for construction, then any finishing work can be completely excluded. This is because a red or yellow facing brick fence looks great on its own.

A white brick fence can be trimmed with natural stone or its artificial counterpart, similar to torn stone.

In addition, you can experiment with different facing materials, creating an unusual and original pattern.

A sand-lime brick fence can be combined with corrugated board or wooden structures, which will blend perfectly together. Trying to combine various building materials for the construction of a fence, you can achieve not only improvements in the appearance of the structure, but also save a lot.

An example of a decorative brick fence

A fence made of bricks and corrugated board, for example, is built much faster than a completely brick fence, and at the same time is not inferior in terms of durability and quality.

The construction of a brick fence can be supplemented with forging elements. can completely replace the fence canvas. Also, forging elements can decorate only the upper part of the canvas. Fences made of yellow and red brick are best combined with forged products.

Of course, the price of such designs will be much higher, however, its originality will be beyond praise.

You can make a reliable and relatively inexpensive fence for the site using a combined fence - the pillars are made of brick, and the filling (spans) and any light material - wood, profiled sheet, forged fences. The view turns out to be solid, and the costs are much less than for a “pure” brick fence. Moreover, laying pillars is not the most difficult thing, but profitable. Masters two years ago asked from 2,000 rubles per pole, and today prices have more than doubled. You can fold brick columns for a fence with your own hands without the skills of a bricklayer. It is important to follow the technology and everything will work out.

Fence foundation with brick pillars

The choice of the type of foundation for brick pillars depends on what material the filling will be from and also on the type of soil. If the span of the fence will be made of light material (corrugated board, wood), you can make a pile foundation for each pillar. The depth to which the pile must be driven / twisted depends on the type of soil and the height of the groundwater. If soils are prone to winter heaving (clay or loam) with high groundwater, it is necessary to dig in 15-20 cm below the freezing depth of the soil. On well-drained soils (sands and sandy loams), it is enough to dig in 80 cm.

A pile foundation for a brick pillar is made according to standard technology:

• drill a hole of the required depth (diameter 25-35 cm);
• a bucket or two gravel is poured to the bottom;
• compact;
• they put a pipe around which they will subsequently lay the pillar (on heaving soils, several pieces of metal bars, tapes, corners are often welded to the buried part for greater stability);
• the pipe is set strictly vertically, fixed;
• for heaving soils, if metal pieces are not welded to the pipe, you can stick several reinforcing bars into the hole; for very difficult soils, you can tie a frame;
• high-grade concrete is poured - M300 or higher (read about grades and composition).

The length of the pipes consists of two quantities: from the part that is walled up in concrete and the part that will stick out from above. Moreover, the upper section of the pipe is not at all necessary in this case should be up to the very top of the column. It can be 40-50 cm shorter. An exception is the poles on which the gate and / or gate will be hung. Here the internal reinforcement should be almost to the very top.

If the fence is planned to be completely brick or there are large wind loads in the region, most likely you will need to make a full-fledged strip foundation. Another option is piles connected with a shallow tape.

Fence construction with brick pillars on a monolithic reinforced concrete foundation

Mortar and brick for posts

The mortar is made cement-sand with a ratio of 1:5 (or 1:6). Sand is better to take a fine fraction, high-grade cement - not lower than M400. For plasticity, you can add a little liquid hand soap or dish detergent (20-30 gr. For a standard batch - 1 bucket).

It is important when preparing the solution to obtain the desired fluidity. It should not be dry, but it is also inconvenient to work with liquid, because water is added gradually, monitoring the consistency of the solution. The desired state can be controlled as follows: spread a certain amount of solution on some surface, put a cross on it with a trowel. Then take the marked area on the trowel and watch the cross: it should not “float”.

If desired, you can get a black solution: add soot to it. It is sold in bags in hardware stores. Add a small amount of soot and get decorative seams without painting.

Any brick is used for poles, just pay attention to the number of defrosting-freezing cycles (the more, the better) and to the geometry. Ideally, deviations in size should not be more than a couple of millimeters. Then it will be easy for you to work. If the batch is of different sizes, carefully sort by size so that the bricks in one column have a minimum discrepancy.

Masonry fence posts: technology

In most cases, fence posts are made of 1.5 or 2 bricks, section 380 * 380 mm and 510 * 510 mm, respectively, height - up to 3 meters.

The masonry is carried out with dressing (displacement) - the seam of the bottom row is blocked by the "body" of the brick lying on top. The seam is standard - 8-10 mm. The scheme of laying columns in one and a half and two bricks in the photo below.

Pillar laying: work order

Cut-off waterproofing is spread on the finished foundation. It can be roofing material in two layers, but waterproofing on bituminous mastic is better. This layer is necessary so that the brick does not "pull" moisture from the ground. If wet brick freezes, it quickly begins to crack and crumble. Therefore, waterproofing is necessary. Rolled waterproofing can be replaced - coat the foundation twice with bituminous mastic, and in areas with high humidity it is better to make double waterproofing - coat with mastic, and then lay Hydroisol as well.

According to the size of the column, a solution is applied to the waterproofing with a layer of a little more than 1 cm. Bricks are laid on it, according to the scheme. They are aligned in the vertical and horizontal planes by tapping with a special rubber hammer. Craftsmen can use the handle of the trowel, but, in this case, the remains of the mortar can fly off the plane of the trowel, dirtying their hands and brick, and it is poorly rubbed off the cement.

Ceramic brick absorbs moisture very quickly, so if you hesitate a little, it will be difficult for you to “put” it in place. In order for the mortar to retain plasticity longer, the brick is dipped in water for a few seconds before laying. The same maneuver makes it easier to wipe the solution from the surface (it is removed immediately with a dry cloth).

The second row is also laid: a mortar is spread on the bricks, bricks are placed on it, but already with dressing - unfolded so that the seam is blocked. Align again. Then they take a tape measure and check the dimensions of the stacked rows. Even a small displacement of 1-2 mm is eliminated. They tap on the end of the brick (called a “poke”), moving the bricks closer. Then, if the side faces were not smeared, the vertical seams are filled. All subsequent rows are placed in the same way.

If there is a void between the inner reinforcement pipe and the brickwork, it is filled. If the distance is small, you can use a masonry mortar, if the void is significant, to save space, you can fill it with rubble, tamp, then spill it with a liquid cement-sand mortar.

Masonry under the bar

The masonry of the pillars described above has long been tested, but for beginners, when making it on their own, it is difficult to maintain an even seam. Another problem is that the solution crawls out of the seam, staining the surface. It doesn't turn out very pretty. To facilitate the work, they came up with a masonry under the bar. They take a square metal bar with a side of 8-10 mm, cut it into pieces, 10-15 cm longer than the dimensions of the column.

Having laid the first row, a bar is laid out on it along the edge of the brick. The site is filled with a solution with a small margin, and the layer is made larger closer to the pipe. Then, leading the trowel along the bar, remove the excess, cleaning the bar from the solution. But at the same time, the slope of the solution is preserved. They put a brick, align it in level. At the same time, the bar does not allow it to settle much, and the position of the other end is controlled by the level.

Then they take a short piece of the bar about 10 cm (for a vertical seam), put it along the poke, apply the mortar on the side of the laid brick with a trowel, also removing the excess along the bar. The second brick is put and leveled. After the level is set, the seam is pressed from above with a trowel, and the vertical bar is removed.

So all the bricks in a row are laid out. Then the bars are removed, proceed to the next row. This technology of laying brick pillars allows you to control the seams and make them neat. So even a novice amateur bricklayer can fold a pole with his own hands. It is important only in the process to control the parameters of each row (so that the column in the section is of the same size).

Video lessons

A more complex version of a brick pillar - screwed

Features of working with ceramic bricks

Possible problems and solutions

The main problems that can arise when laying poles with your own hands are resizing and “twisting”. Both defects arise from insufficient control.

When laying pillars with your own hands, often the upper rows become much wider than the lower ones. This happens gradually, a millimeter or even less is added, but in almost every row. As a result, at a height of 2 m, the column width is 400 mm and even more. This is instead of 380 mm instead. The fix for this bug is to control the size of each row.

It is not enough to control the dimensions of the column only with the building level. A household tool (yellow) is mainly used, and it has a rather large error. And if the level has a length of 60-80 cm, you simply will not see slight vertical deviations. Therefore, they additionally use a tape measure - measuring each row. To reduce the time it takes to control, you can make a template according to the size of the post (for example, from even strips) with which to check for deviations.

Fence posts are laid around a metal reinforcing pipe, verticality is checked after laying each row

Self-laying pillars without experience in such work can lead to another mistake: the edges of the pillar can move, while the pillar twists around its axis. This shortcoming is much more unpleasant: try attaching spans to such pillars. There will be many problems. Therefore, when laying each row, it is necessary to strictly ensure that the corners are located strictly one above the other.

To facilitate the task, you can use two corners screwed to opposite corners. They are temporarily attached to the lower rows (with bolts or self-tapping screws in the seam) and then used as a guideline, placing the bricks strictly in the corner.

Embedded elements and fastening of the gate

When laying brick pillars, you need to think about how you will attach the span to them. In order to be able to fix horizontal guides for filling the fence, mortgages are pre-welded to the pipes located in the middle of the column. These can be corners, studs, "ears" for attaching wooden planks, etc. They are welded at the same height so that the attached crossbars are strictly horizontal.

One of the options is suitable for fastening corrugated board, picket fence

Mortgage options may vary. Someone makes from a corner, someone has enough hairpins. It all depends on the type of filling the fence (from which spans will be made) or mass.

Under gates or gates, at least three metal parts with a metal thickness of at least 3 mm (preferably 4 mm or even more) are required.

We make a cap on a brick pillar

To protect the brick from moisture, the top of the pillar is covered with a cap. They are sold in large quantities, there are metal, concrete or composite. If desired, a cap on a roofing iron pole can be made with your own hands. Below is a diagram. You just have to substitute the dimensions, and then bend along the marked lines. The product is fastened with special rivets, but self-tapping screws can also be used. Only it will be necessary to pre-drill the holes, coat them with anti-rust, then paint.

Photo ideas of fences with brick pillars

The most popular option is a corrugated fence with brick pillars.

Ragged stone and picket fence - combined fence

Special monumentality and reliability always emanates from brick fences. Such fences not only look aesthetically attractive, but also provide protection to the whole house, they are not afraid of various natural disasters.

Design advantages

Brick fence is a fairly strong and reliable design. It is fire resistant, durable, withstands the effects of natural factors. For example, if you build a wall with one brick masonry, then it will easily withstand the wind load at wind speeds up to 15 m / s. The protection is unpretentious in leaving, does not need special cleaning or coloring.

A variety of blocks that differ in shape and size will allow you to choose the right stylistic solution and successfully fit the fence into the landscape and interior of the house. So, the original fence with brick pillars will be a wonderful decoration for a country plot.

But there are, of course, some disadvantages that must be considered when planning construction work:

• the possibility of efflorescence in the form of white plaque;
• the need to use only high-quality masonry material;
• high cost and complexity of construction.

Preparatory work

To build a fence, you need to prepare the necessary material in advance - gravel with sand, reinforcing bars, cement composition and brick blocks. For brickwork, you will need to dilute a special solution of cement, sand and water. Sometimes plasticizers are added. The batch volume is calculated based on the hour of continuous operation.

It is important to choose the right brick. The material must be of high quality. More expensive and reliable facing brick does not require additional finishing work. The wall will be aesthetically pleasing.

But ceramic bricks with a rough surface can give your building an original look. Standard red brick is subsequently plastered or left unfinished. Fire-resistant or frost-resistant material gives the fence greater strength and resistance to weather factors.

In order for the structure to have a high-quality appearance, as in the photo of brick fences, it is advisable to correctly calculate the need for blocks. For single-type masonry, 100 pieces per 1 sq. m, and for a double - already 200 units.

Decorative fences are built in one or one and a half bricks, but for more durable fences with a protective function, double masonry is required. Height can be from half a meter to 3.5 m.

Before starting work, it is necessary to make measurements taking into account the perimeter of the structure, the quality of the soil, and the presence of drops. In order for the structure to be rigid and durable, it is advisable to specify the design of brick pillars already in the drawings.

The installation step of such poles can be within 2-3 m and even up to 6 m. The installation site must be cleared of debris, grass and other vegetation.

Foundation arrangement

For those masters who decide to independently answer the question of how to make a brick fence with their own hands, our simple instructions will help. In this case, the first very important stage is the construction of the foundation.

Plot marking

Along the walls of the planned trench, pegs should be driven in at intervals of up to 1 m. A string is stretched between them. It is important to mark in a timely manner the mounting points of the pillars, as well as the fastening of the gate and gate. All corners must have a 90 degree parameter, for which a square is used.

Foundation creation

The foundation for a brick fence is chosen, as a rule, of a tape type. However, if there are differences in the height of the site, it is advisable to build a columnar foundation.

The depth of the tape structure should be at least 60-70 cm, but many professionals recommend increasing it to 1 m. The width of the trench is determined by the characteristics of the masonry, but 60-65 cm wider than the structure itself. Metal pipes are driven in at the points of installation of pillars to strengthen the structure.

At the bottom of the trench, it is advisable to build a drainage cushion from a 10-15 cm layer of sand and gravel. After that, the formwork from the boards is installed to obtain an even upper face. A reinforcing mesh is laid on the drainage cushion - rods woven into a mesh using steel wire.

A concrete solution is poured into the trench from above. For its manufacture, cement, crushed stone and sand are taken in a ratio of 1: 3: 3. The surface is then leveled and air is released. To do this, the surface is pierced with a rod in several places.

The filling should be covered and left for 7-10 days to gain strength, after which the formwork can be removed. Full hardening occurs after 3-4 weeks.

Installation of supports

Pillars can be one and a half in 1.5 bricks or double in 2 blocks. For strength, reinforcing reinforcement is used. The gaps between the installed pipes and the brick casing are filled with concrete. Sometimes broken bricks are added to these spaces, and only then mortar. The design of the supports must be strictly vertical.

After 2-2.5 weeks, the masonry should be treated with a solution from white spots, and covered with caps from above against the accumulation of water.

Features of masonry fencing

Before starting work, the brick should be soaked in water. Laying is done with a trowel on a solution of cement, sand and water. Single-row masonry is the standard solution for arranging a fence, however, when planning tall structures, it is advisable to use a double one.

The brick is first laid out around the entire perimeter of the foundation in several rows. At the same time, orders are arranged with nails in the corners.

The correctness of the work can be controlled with twine or a constantly moving board. Seams are processed with a standard solution or special compounds. The entire fencing fabric must be reliably waterproofed.

A brick fence with corrugated board is popular. If the spans are made of this material or, for example, of wood, then a frame should first be built from a 20x40 mm pipe. Then 2 jumpers are fixed on it. All seams are cleaned, polished, and the sheets are primed and treated with enamel. The corrugated board is attached to the lintels using self-tapping screws with a gasket through the wave.

The brick fence with forging also looks quite attractive. This method is suitable for decorating corrugated spans. Forging elements will also decorate the gate or gate.

Sometimes the fence needs to be lined with stone, beads, granite. A mesh of cellular or welded type is laid on the surface of the fence. Then the plane is plastered with the addition of coarse-grained filler to visualize the roughness.

When the plaster dries, it is cleaned and the cladding is started with a stone and a mortar of sand and cement in a ratio of 2: 1. The mixture is applied to the tiles, while the size of the seams should be no more than 1.5 cm. As a result of such work, you can build an aesthetically attractive and reliable brick fence.

Photo of brick fences

The land is traditionally surrounded by a fence. The fence is made from different materials. One option is a fence with a base of brick pillars with spans of corrugated board, forged elements, wooden picket fence or brickwork. Such a fence looks solid, it reliably protects the territory and is decorative with its finish.

The brickwork of the pillars is quite simple for self-production, if you familiarize yourself with the technology for erecting such pillars. Consider the details of this type of construction work.

Peculiarities

A fence with brick pillars provides the necessary level of security from unwanted intrusions into the estate. Corrugated or masonry spans supported by brick pillars can add impermeability and reliability to the protective function of the fence.

Forged and wooden spans will give external lightness to the structure, while maintaining the necessary level of isolation from the external environment.

Brick supports are durable and weather resistant. They are sufficiently resistant to increased payload to install massive gates with automatic sliding or mechanical swing devices.

To extend the life of the pillars, they need to be covered with caps made of metal or concrete. It should be borne in mind that concrete caps have a greater variety of shapes, but they themselves are destroyed by changes in temperature and humidity.

Metal caps better isolate the brickwork from moisture.

Fencing on brick pillars, while providing a sufficient level of protection, is more affordable than a completely brick fence. Types of bricks, masonry pattern and span material give a lot of room for decorative creativity in the design of such a fence. Brick poles can be safely equipped with an electrical cable to organize the lighting of individual poles, which will be convenient for the owners and serve as an additional decor.

Types of structures

To build a fence with brick supports, you need to decide on the type and height of the structure. The optimal height of the supports is chosen about two meters, then the pillar is laid out with a width of 1.5 bricks, together with the seams, this is equal to 38 centimeters.

If necessary, you can increase the height to 3-4 meters, then it is better to lay the masonry in two or more bricks. In this case, the size of the column will be about 50 by 50 centimeters. The span width ranges from 2.5 to 6 meters, the dimensions are selected according to the relief or according to the composition of the fence.

The type of foundation depends on the type of construction: tape or point. For spans of lighter materials, a point foundation is chosen for brick columns, for heavy ones, a strip foundation.

Spans of corrugated board - the most common option.

Advantages:

• Such a fence has an external conciseness and ease of installation.
• You can choose the desired color scheme.
• With such spans, geometric caps look beautiful.
• Easy to install gate.

Under this type of fence, a strip foundation is made. You can stop at point supports, but wear resistance and decorative qualities will be reduced.

For a fence with forged inserts, you can also use the first and second versions of the supports. Of course, forging gives the fence artistic value and emphasizes the well-being of the owners. A strip foundation with several rows of bricks will give solidity to the fence. The airiness of the structure appears when the strip foundation is abandoned, but the functions of durability, reliable protection and decorativeness are preserved.

The fence can be completely lined with brick or torn decorative stone, such fences are made on a reinforced foundation, they reliably isolate the territory of land ownership. For a decorative effect, combined fences are performed.

After choosing the type of fence, proceed to the selection of material.

Material selection

The material for spans is chosen according to the degree of protection required: for better insulation - profiled sheet or brick, for a decorative effect - metal forging, in rural farmsteads a wooden or metal picket fence has proven itself well as protection from cold winds and unwanted intrusions.

The material of the fence should be in harmony with the architecture of the outbuildings and the general concept of the design of the site. Classical mansions look harmoniously with wrought iron or stone fences. It is better to enclose an ethnic-style house with a fence using a wooden picket fence. In areas where poultry or other animals are kept, solid corrugated fences will be optimal.

In modern minimalist trends, it is better to use a fence with a minimum of decor. Simple and graceful. Such fences are decorated with spans of special glass or plastic.

Brick for posts is selected based on the overall design of the fence. For the first two or three rows, an ordinary clay brick is required, then a hollow one or the same as in the bottom row is used. To enhance the decorative effect, the columns are laid out with clinker bricks or facing bricks of the desired color in various combinations.

Embossed brick gives more expressiveness to the architecture of the fence. Decorative trim can be applied only on the front side of the fence, and the inside can be left in the form of a simple brickwork. This will provide significant savings.

By the number of pillars, steel pipes are purchased, which will become a vertical axis for reinforcing brickwork. It should be noted that in the pillars for gates and gates, supporting reinforcement is purchased with a reinforced profile. Reinforcement will be required to strengthen the foundation, its quantity is calculated based on the need for a tape or point location.

Building fillers will be needed: cement, sand, crushed stone or expanded clay. It will be necessary to stock up on boards for the manufacture of formwork. Since the brick absorbs moisture very well, and when it freezes, it destroys the structure of the material, all brick structures will have to be protected from soil moisture, so waterproofing material will be needed.

The calculation of the amount of necessary materials is carried out according to the length of the fence, the step of the brick supports and their size.

For a standard column of one and a half bricks 2 meters high, 110 bricks are required.

Laying technology

Sequencing:

• The first step is to mark the contour of the fence with twine. In places of future supports, pegs are driven in. For a pile foundation, according to the marks with pegs, using a drill, a hole is made 30-35 centimeters wide and 80 centimeters deep for sandy soil, and for clay soil - up to a freezing layer plus 20 centimeters.

In central Russia, it is best to maintain a depth of 1 meter or 1 meter 20 centimeters. A bucket of rubble is poured into this pit and tamped down. Formwork is made according to the diameter of the pit, it is possible to roll a tube of the desired diameter from the roofing material. A steel pipe is inserted into this formwork and poured with a cement mixture.

A mixture of cement and sand is made in a ratio of 1: 5 or 1: 6; for plasticity, you can add a little liquid soap. The solution should not be liquid and not dry, so water is added gradually. The upper part of the foundation is poured into the formwork along the width of the column. For a strip foundation, a trench 50 cm deep and 40 cm wide is dug between the posts.

• After pouring the foundation, brickwork is started no earlier than 2 weeks later. The surface of the foundation is covered with a waterproofing material so that the brick does not absorb moisture from the soil. Here you can apply roofing material, but a more modern material is bitumen-based waterproofing.
• Mortgage corners, eyelets for a gate canopy are welded onto a steel pipe, or transverse pipes are welded to secure the span material - picket fence, profiled sheet or forging.

• The next stage of work is brickwork. Here you need to carefully consider the quality of the solution, its density. For testing, put a little mortar on the brick, it should not spread. Bricks are laid according to the masonry pattern with bandaging through a row around a steel pipe. The first and second rows are laid with ordinary full bricks, for the following you can use lightweight hollow ones.

• A layer of cement mortar 1 centimeter thick is applied to the waterproofing, and bricks are laid on this layer, each brick is tapped for compaction with a rubber mallet. For uniform adhesion to the mortar, the brick is pre-dipped in water. It is better to measure each row with a tape measure, since a shift of even a few millimeters in each row can lead to a skew of the post or expansion by several centimeters.

Each side should be regularly checked with a level to avoid deviation from the vertical.

• If desired, you can make a decorative finish on the seams, usually a dye or textured crumb is added to the cement mortar, and after the masonry is finished, the seams are separately coated. This gives accuracy and completeness to the entire building.
• After laying the entire column, the middle part around the pipe is filled with mortar, it can be filled with gravel and poured with a more liquid solution. The top is again covered with a waterproofing layer.

• A cap made of metal or concrete is fixed to the top of the structure. Manufacturers offer a wide variety of shapes, colors and materials for the manufacture of such caps. A simple rectangular cap can be made from a sheet of metal yourself according to a pattern. The color is selected according to the color of the fence design.

• If the project provides for combined masonry, then you must carefully select the dimensions of the main and finishing bricks. If the brick pillar is finished with natural stone, then after the masonry has dried, a finishing layer is applied.
• The next stage consists in hanging the material of the span: profiled sheet, metal grating, picket fence or laying out the span with decorative bricks.
• The final type of work is the installation of gates and gates, installation of lighting.

A few tips for doing masonry will help you do it efficiently even for a novice master:

• To ensure that the seams between the rows of bricks are of the same thickness, a metal bar of the desired diameter is laid along the edge. Cement mortar is leveled on it, bricks are laid on top, tapped with a rubber mallet, then the rod is removed and laid on the next row.