How to build a summer kitchen (40 photos). Summer kitchen in the country and in a private house: types and options with photos Summer kitchen near the house

In the fresh air, not only the appetite is stronger, but food is digested much better. In warm weather, you do not want to sit indoors at all. Preservation for the winter is also easier to do outside. In the article we will tell you how to build a summer kitchen in a summer house with your own hands, we will demonstrate diagrams, drawings, photo and video instructions.

Choose a type

All types of summer kitchens can be classified into two categories:

open;
closed.

Closed kitchens are like a small house-like structure that often doesn't have much insulation. The advantage of this solution will be protection from insects, the best protection from the weather, as well as from the wind. An open kitchen option on one or more sides can be protected with a fabric, wood or other wall. The advantage of such a solution will be greater unity with nature. Among the open types of buildings, there are options:

With barbecue. In this case, you have the advantage of cooking your favorite dish on an open fire. Barbecue will be available in any weather. If you additionally mount the oven, then you can please your friends with pizza.
With gazebo or pergola. Nice to sit among the greenery. This is exactly the solution in which the entire structure will eventually be shrouded in grapes, ivy or other climbing plants.
Canopy adjoining the house. The easiest way to build. Requires the least investment. But there is a downside. When cooking, all fumes and smoke will go towards the house. This can lead to damage to walls or other finishing material.

Stages of preparation

Once you have chosen one of the possible options, it's time to create a small project.

We choose a location. It is good when it is possible to place the kitchen in a cozy garden, where there is a pleasant atmosphere of tranquility. At this stage, it is necessary to take into account the proximity of the location of various communications. They will definitely be needed. Electrical appliances will require wiring. When cooking, you can’t do without water and after it you need to put it somewhere. Do not place the building close to driveways and roads. Then your meal will not be spoiled by unpleasant odors. If there is a toilet outside, then it is better to leave it as far away as possible.
We stop at the material for construction. If a closed kitchen is planned, then you can approach it as a frame building, in which case you will need wood. A good option would be a building made of foam blocks or bricks. The open one will most likely be made of wood, or one or two of its walls will be made of the material that was listed earlier.
Decide on the roof. Soft tiles will look great on an open building, but this is a rather expensive solution, although it cannot be ruled out, because the roof area will be small. A good option would be metal tile or corrugated board. Perhaps, while waiting for your turn, you have sheets of slate or ondulin - they will also work.
The project should also take into account what equipment is planned to be purchased for the summer kitchen.

Foundation

The summer kitchen is usually conceived as a lightweight structure. This means that the foundation can immediately act as a floor, and, perhaps, pouring is not required at all.

First you need to clear the selected area of all debris and vegetation.
A small layer of top soil is removed.
One of the corners of the future building is indicated with a wooden peg or a metal rod. Next, three more elements are installed. To correctly position them, it is necessary to measure the diagonals for identity. A fishing line or strong twine is stretched between them, which will serve as a guide.

If the building will consist of a canopy, then after these steps you can proceed as follows:

The entire perimeter of the marked area is dug to a depth of 30 cm.
The bottom is leveled and compacted.
Sand is poured inside with a layer of 10-15 cm. It is also leveled and well rammed.
The remaining space is filled with screenings and the final leveling is performed.
Further, on our “pie”, which has been prepared, paving or other tiles, which are intended for the street, are laid. This can be done on a dry cement mortar, which, after spilling with water, will fix the entire base well.
Pits are dug at four corners, their depth should be at least 50 cm. Formwork is installed inside. A crate is made from the reinforcement, which will be the basis of the reinforced concrete structure. It is placed inside and filled with a solution. With the help of a vibrator, the entire mixture is rammed. While the concrete has not yet hardened, two metal plates are inserted into the middle, to which we can fix wooden poles that will support the walls and roof.

This version of the base will be relevant in the case when the soil is sufficiently dense. In cases where groundwater can come very close to the surface or displacements of the upper layer are noticed, it is necessary to provide a more solid foundation. Also, if you plan to build a stove or barbecue on such a foundation, then you will need to lay separate concrete supports for them.

In order to make a foundation slab, we will need to follow the first three steps from the previous instructions. Next, we take on the following:

We prepare 8 pieces of reinforcing bars. Four of them should be 10 cm shorter than one of the sides of the future building, 4 others 10 cm shorter than the other. If the building is square, then they will all be the same size.
We lay four of them in the form of our future structure and fix them together. Further, every 40 cm we tie longitudinal and transverse jumpers. In the same way we prepare the second grid. We connect the two gratings with jumpers to such a height that the future plate rises above the surface by at least 5 cm.
We lower the entire structure into the middle of the dug hole, install the formwork and fill it with concrete. We ram with a vibrator. We level with slats and let it stand for several weeks.
In fresh concrete around the perimeter, in increments of a meter, metal plates can be placed to the width of the future beam for the walls. Or it can be done only in the corners.

It is very important that the floor is above the ground. This will prevent rainwater from seeping in. It is also good to make a slight slope of the floor so that the precipitation that is carried by the wind can flow freely into the drain or simply through the door.

In the case when it is planned to build a closed kitchen made of brick or foam block, this version of the foundation may be enough. Also, for these needs, you can build a tape shallow or columnar foundation. In this case, such a large-scale excavation is not carried out.

A trench is dug to a depth of 50 cm around the entire perimeter of the future kitchen. The width will depend on the thickness of the walls. In any case, the foundation should be 10–15 cm wider.
A layer of sand is poured to the bottom, which is leveled and spilled with water.
A metal base-lattice is made according to the principle, as in the previous instructions. She fits into the trench.
Formwork is installed with the expectation that the future foundation rises 20–30 cm above the ground.
Pour the cement mortar, ram and level it. Let stand 2-3 weeks.

The supply of all communications must be carried out in parallel with the laying of the foundation, so that later you do not have to hammer holes in it or dig under it. So that the pipes are not clogged with mortar, they must be closed in advance with a cloth and plastic oilcloth.

open kitchen

This option can be built most quickly. We have already laid the foundation and the anchorage for the supports. If you are planning for the kitchen to be closed on one or both sides with walls made of brick or other material, then the first step is to start building these partitions.

At the corners of future walls, we dig into the ground a metal square pipe or a profile measuring 50 × 50 mm. Let's level it up. We do this so that the planks are close to the masonry. They will serve as our guide.
We stretch the line between them. We raise it to the height of the first row of bricks to be laid. Let's level it up.
We prepare a cement-sand mortar in a ratio of 1: 3. This will be sufficient for our purposes.
We produce masonry, focusing on a stretched fishing line, and also periodically recheck ourselves with a level.
As soon as the first row is completed, we raise the fishing line for the next and so on until the very end.
In order to make the structure more stable, a reinforcing mesh can be laid in the seams.

If you do not plan on having walls of this nature, then the process will be much easier.

To the metal plates that we laid during the manufacture of the foundation, we fasten the beam, which will serve as a support. When the whole structure is of great length, then it is necessary to foresee the need to install 3-4 pillars on one side. Their length should be equal to the height of our building, and the dimensions of the sides should be 15 × 15 cm or 15 × 10 cm.
We expose them by level so that they are strictly vertical. The bars of one wall should be longer so that we can organize the roof slope.
We immediately strengthen our columns with the help of the upper strapping. It can be made from the same logs. We fix it with metal corners.
To give greater stability to the entire structure, you can install two jibs near each column. They can be fixed to the support with self-tapping screws, and to the base - with an anchor bolt.
We mount beams for our future roof. In order for them to better hold in the places where they adjoin the harness, it is better to perform gashes. We fix with metal corners.
We make a crate for flooring, as recommended by the manufacturer. We lay roofing material.
To create more comfort, one side (or more) can be sewn up with a wooden clapboard or block house. On the other - to make a wooden lattice. You can equip supports for climbing green plants.

In the case when it is planned to build a pergola, nothing more needs to be done after laying the ceiling beams. They can be covered with stain or varnish. Further, the plants themselves will do their job, creating a shadow when they are fully grown.

closed kitchen

At the design stage, it may have been decided to build walls from foam blocks or bricks, then this can be done according to the same principle with the installation of vertical landmarks, which was mentioned above. The thickness of the walls may not be too large. In some cases, laying in half a brick is allowed. But always consider the weight of the future roof. In the future, the outside of the building can be sheathed with siding or a block house. For interior decoration, a block house, lining or other material that will be resistant to frost is also suitable, because it is unlikely that someone will constantly heat the room in winter.

A bar is laid on the walls, which will act as a Mauerlat. Its size can be 10 × 15 cm. It is fixed with anchor bolts or studs, which must be walled up during the construction of walls. Under it, it is imperative to lay waterproofing in the form of roofing material or bikrost. A truss system is installed on the logs. It can be both for a gable and for a shed roof (for this option it will be enough to make one wall higher than the other, then beams are simply installed between them). A crate is mounted on the beams and the roofing is laid. From the inside, the ceiling is hemmed.

You can go simpler and stop at the wireframe version. For it, we need bars of the same size as for the vertical posts from the instructions for the open kitchen. From them we make the foundation. We lay them around the perimeter of our foundation on two layers of roofing material or bicrost, which will serve as waterproofing. We make a dressing between them. To do this, on the edge of each log there is a recess half the depth and a width equal to the width of the log. Checking diagonals. We fix them together with self-tapping screws and internal metal corners. Next, we fix it to pre-prepared plates or anchors to the foundation.

We mount the corner support pillars from the same timber. In increments of 60 cm, we install additional vertical supports from a board measuring 10 × 5 cm. For greater rigidity, we fasten the jibs for each main support. We carry out the upper trim and install the truss system for the future roof. We do this by analogy with the option of an open kitchen.

finish line

Even if our kitchen is planned to have a barbecue or stove, this does not exclude the presence of a gas or electric stove, which is much more convenient to use. It is necessary to take care of the installation of a sink, a mixer, as well as a stand for dishes on which it will dry. It would be nice if there is a locker in which you can hide cutlery, as well as pots. You need to take care of the dining table, as well as comfortable furniture on which you can relax. For greater comfort, it is better to carry out the main and decorative lighting.

For an open kitchen project, it is best to ensure that all lighting fixtures are preferably IP68 rated. In this case, you do not have to worry about any elements being damaged by rainwater.

Don't approach your summer kitchen project casually. Let it in some sense be a design decision. After all, it will serve not only as a place for eating, but also as a recreation area with family and friends.

Cooking in a small kitchen is no fun. Hot air, tightness, constant lack of free space make the cooking process difficult and sometimes unbearable. There is only one way out - to build a separate spacious summer kitchen in the country house, where there is enough space not only to accommodate the working, but also the dining area, with a large and comfortable dining table. About which summer kitchen is most in demand today, and whether it is possible to build it yourself using standard projects and a regular photo, later in our article.

What is a summer kitchen

The summer kitchen in the country is an attached to the house or a separate building designed for cooking and relaxing. Depending on the choice of materials and the method of insulation, it can be used both during the warm season and constantly.

The type of construction of the summer kitchen can be open and closed. In the first case, the walls of the building are completely or partially absent. They can be replaced by light curtains or. The closed type has solid walls and windows that reliably cover the kitchen from rain and wind.

For an experienced carpenter, it will not be difficult to build a canopy from the rain over the summer kitchen

A summer kitchen with a simple project can be safely built in just one summer. This will require basic construction skills, the necessary material and tools. Well, for safety net, it is desirable to have one or two assistants, since some types of work will be carried out at height.

Important! Before you start building an object, you should choose a suitable place for it. Not only the aesthetic, but also the practical side of the issue will depend on how correctly this will be done.

We select a place for construction

When choosing a suitable place, first of all, you need to consider that the kitchen should not be too remote at home. And the point is not even that it will be easier and cheaper to bring communications, but that it should be within walking distance from the main building. After all, you must admit that every day it is not very convenient to go to cook breakfast, lunch and dinner on the opposite side of the site.

In addition, next to the summer kitchen, there should be no sources that have an unpleasant odor. These include sheds and cages with animals, fertilizer pits, compost heaps, sewer wells, septic tanks, etc.

Having your own outdoor kitchen is every housewife's dream.

If there is a tree on the site, it is advisable to plan a summer kitchen in the immediate vicinity of it. On hot days, a table and chairs can be placed under its dense crown. It's no secret that breakfast in the fresh air is doubly pleasant.

However, carried away by the planning of the future building, do not forget about the fire safety rules, the neglect of which can lead to not the best consequences.

The presence of an open flame in the summer kitchen is allowed if it is at least 8-10 meters away from flammable buildings.

We decide on the kitchen project (photo)

In order for the cooking extension to be practical, functional and comfortable, and also to have an attractive appearance, it is important to choose the right project for it, in which all the nuances and design features will be painted to the smallest detail.

In addition, it is important that the kitchen organically fit into the overall building and does not disturb the surrounding landscape, so it is advisable to choose the same materials for its construction as for the house itself. So you will achieve perfect harmony between the two buildings.

As you may have noticed, many summer kitchen projects whose photos are posted in the article have an original and non-standard design. This suggests that today the aesthetic component is no less important than the functional one.

Building a building on your own

When the place and project for the summer kitchen are chosen, you can safely proceed to its construction. Like any building, the construction of a summer kitchen is carried out in four stages:

Marking the site and pouring the foundation.
The erection of walls (if provided for by the project) or supporting pillars.
Roof construction.
Internal and external finishing.

Foundation

Since this building is relatively light, there is no need to pour a capital foundation. It is quite possible to get by or, most importantly, to be carried out in compliance with the technology.

Important! For those who subsequently do not want to mess with the floor device, it is perfect, the upper base of which will be the floor.

For the construction of a summer kitchen made of glass - the foundation may not be required at all

Strip foundation. First, a markup is made on the site, which is marked on the plane with fixed pegs with a rope stretched between them. Next, a foundation pit is dug (depth 40-60 cm), along the perimeter of which formwork from boards or moisture-resistant plywood is installed on both sides. Then, in order to avoid heaving of the soil, a backfill is made of compacted seeded sand and crushed stone. Before concrete is poured, reinforcement is lowered into the trench and tied with wire using a special hook. The foundation must stand for at least 30 days. If you are lucky with the weather, you can start construction in 2 weeks.
monolithic foundation. Having previously marked the site, a foundation pit is dug to a depth of 15-20 cm. To strengthen the soil and protect the slab from groundwater, geotextiles are laid at the bottom of the pit, on top of which a sand cushion is made. Further, the sand is well leveled and tightly compacted by a tamping machine. It remains to put the formwork, tie the reinforcing cage, pour the concrete solution. After complete drying, a reliable and high-quality base for the summer kitchen is ready.

Important! If you plan to use an open type of summer kitchen, it is recommended to make a slab from a monolithic foundation with a slight slope of 1.5º-2º so that rainwater can flow down it on its own.

Walls and roof

If the walls of the summer kitchen are wooden, their construction begins with the construction of a frame, which is made of metal or wooden bars.

Large (support) racks are installed in the corners - 200 × 200 mm in size, and additional ones between them - 150 × 150 mm in size.
The upper strapping beams are placed on the support bars, which will also serve as the basis for installing the rafters.
After the rafters are installed, from bars measuring 50 × 50 mm. a crate and a counter-lattice are made.
Further, the entire structure is treated with a special compound from fungus and mold, after which installation is carried out.

Often, rounded logs, bricks or stone are used as wall material, which is ideal for this type of building. With such walls, the building can be used year-round, the main thing is to produce them of high quality.

Another undeniable advantage is that facade of the summer kitchen from a log, facing brick or decorative stone does not require additional finishing. Extra costs come down only to the fact that wood is needed and, and stone and brick.

We decide on the design of the facade

When choosing a summer kitchen project from photos that you like, you need to pay attention not only to its shape, size, and functional component, but also to the design of the building. For a summer residence, it is very important that the style of the outbuildings correspond to the general layout of the entire site as a whole.

This does not mean at all that the building should be a kind of clone of the main structure. Rather, on the contrary, they should not replace, but complement each other, creating common stylistic touches.

Particular attention in the summer kitchen should also be given to the working and dining area, where everything should be as rational and convenient as possible. Properly organize the space will help you placed below photo of summer kitchens, where it is clearly demonstrated how beautifully and correctly design various zones.

The work area is an important element in the interior. Try to keep it comfortable and practical

Furniture. Using upholstered furniture in an open-type summer kitchen is not a good idea. In most cases, it is made of foam rubber, which absorbs moisture well. Therefore, it is better to use wooden or plastic benches and chairs with removable cushions. Also, various types of wicker furniture will fit well into the interior, which goes well with any finishing materials. For example, a rattan chair or a wicker chair will look very nice. If a closed type of kitchen is used, then the flight of fancy should not be limited by anything. In this case, you can use any furniture, including upholstered.
Lighting. Proper lighting of the summer kitchen in the country, regardless of its size, is an important stage of repair work. A chandelier suspended in the center or a single lamp cannot always cope with the task assigned to it. To illuminate all zones, it is desirable to use more than one type of lighting. Above the working area, it is appropriate to place spotlights in tandem with, and hang a large chandelier above the table.

We hope that this article will help you to competently approach the issue of choosing the right project for your summer kitchen. As you can see, there are plenty of sources for inspiration and fresh ideas for the implementation of our plans. Good luck with your construction.

In the warm season, especially during the conservation period, the presence of a summer kitchen greatly facilitates the cooking process and makes it more enjoyable. For construction, it is not necessary to hire specialists - all stages can be completed independently. If you choose the right materials, the summer kitchen will not cost too much, which is of great importance for the economical owner.

Types of summer kitchens

Summer kitchens can have a closed and open design. Both species are widely used in suburban and suburban areas. To decide which type to opt for, you should study all the advantages and disadvantages of such buildings.

Closed kitchen

This kitchen has windows, doors and a roof like a complete home. There are options combined with a bathhouse or a summer shower, a cellar, a workshop, with an attached veranda for eating and relaxing. Usually, light materials are chosen for construction and they do not insulate the building, so the room is not used in winter. At the same time, there are kitchens made of bricks and foam blocks, which are more durable and can be insulated if necessary.

Advantages of closed structures:

a closed kitchen requires more materials, so it is more expensive;
the project will require additional calculations;
the construction process is more laborious and lengthy.

This option is more suitable for country houses where the owners live permanently. But in the country, which is empty in winter, the construction of a closed kitchen is not always justified.

Open kitchens are built according to the principle: a concrete or tiled base, supporting pillars along the perimeter, a canopy roof. Under the canopy, a stove, a kitchen table, and benches are installed. Sometimes the kitchen is made without a canopy if it is used exclusively for cooking on vacation on clear days. The building material for an open kitchen is most often wood, brick, natural stone.

Summer kitchen - a project with a barbecue

Advantages:

do not use the room during the cold period;
no protection from wind and insects;
poor protection against rain and dampness;
no food left.
all the furniture that will be there must be hidden for the winter in closed, dry rooms, otherwise it will quickly rot.

Where to build

The location of the kitchen matters a lot. The utility yard and cesspools should be as far away as possible, but communications, on the contrary, are closer. You will have to supply water to the kitchen, connect electricity, so it is best if the building site is near the house. You can not choose a place in the lowland, otherwise the floor will be damp. A closed kitchen can be attached to the house, and it is better to place an open one in a garden or near a pond, away from the road.

Construction of an open kitchen

There are many options for building an open kitchen, but the main stages are always the same: marking and preparing the site, laying the foundation, installing load-bearing supports, installing the roof and interior design.

For work you will need:

level;
shovel;
pegs and twine;
tape measure; sand and gravel;
cement mortar;
pieces of reinforcement;
timber 150x150 mm;
Circular Saw;
drill;
screwdriver;
hammer and nails;
metal squares;
self-tapping screws;
boards 25 mm thick;
primer.

Step 1. Markup

The selected area is cleared of all unnecessary and the sod is removed. One of the corners of the building is determined and a peg is driven into the ground, and then the width and length of the platform for the kitchen are measured from it. Beacons-pegs are placed in each of the corners and a twine is pulled between them. Check the correct markings on the diagonals - they must be the same length. After that, inside the markup, the soil is selected to a depth of 15-20 cm, leveled and rammed.

Step 2. Foundation pouring

The bottom of the pit is covered with an even layer of sand, leveled, well compacted. If necessary, communication pipes are laid along the bottom, crushed stone is poured from above. A reinforcing mesh is laid, metal rods 20 cm high are inserted at the corners of the site, formwork from boards is installed around the perimeter. The height of the formwork above the ground should be about 10 cm; using a level on the inside of the formwork, mark the line for pouring the solution so that the site is even. Knead and pour it into the formwork, guided by the markup. The communication pipes are closed with plugs, otherwise the solution may get inside. The surface is leveled with a rule, after which the foundation is left until it dries completely.

Also, the foundation for the kitchen can be made of a columnar type using bricks. The marking is carried out similarly to a monolithic foundation, after which square-shaped pits are dug up to a depth of 50 cm. The bottom of the pits is covered with sand and rammed, then a metal bar is inserted, around which brickwork is made. The height of the foundation columns is checked by level. If necessary, the columns are leveled with an additional layer of cement.

A lower trim made of timber will be attached to the reinforcement bars, which is joined using the “paw” method. The beam is laid on roofing material, previously glued with bitumen to each column. Logs of the subfloor from the edged board are mounted on the lower trim.

Step 3. Installation of bearing supports

In the lower ends of the timber, holes are drilled for reinforcing bars protruding from the foundation. The front racks are made 20 cm higher than the rear ones, so that it is more convenient to mount the canopy. The bars are installed at the corners of the site, leveled, and then fixed to the base with metal plates on anchor bolts. Along the upper edge, the pillars are connected with a strapping of timber, and horizontal jumpers are mounted at a height of 70-80 cm from the floor.

Table. Roof slope depending on the coverage

Roof material	Weight sq. m (without base), kg	Approximate durability, years	Roof pitch, deg.
Sheet black steel	3-5	20-25	16-30
Cink Steel	3,5-6	30-40	16-30
Ruberoid	4-13	13-15	4-27
Roof tiles	40-50	60 and over	30-45
asbestos cement	14-20	40-45	27-50

Step 4. Mounting the canopy

The boards treated with a primer are nailed to the upper harness along the width of the structure every 50 cm. The internal joints must be reinforced with metal squares so that the canopy does not disperse in strong winds. A waterproofing material is laid on top of the boards, thin slats are stuffed and sheets of slate or

Step 5. Floor arrangement

The best solution would be tiling. It is not afraid of moisture, is easily cleaned of dirt, easily tolerates temperature changes. Wooden flooring in an open kitchen quickly becomes unusable under the influence of atmospheric moisture, cracks from the sun, is damaged by insects, and therefore requires regular maintenance. So, take the tile, tile adhesive, notched trowel and start laying the floor. Lay out the tiles from the corner: apply a little solution to the back surface, apply to the floor and level.

In the photo - porcelain tiles for the street

To make the seams as even as possible, special plastic crosses are used, which are inserted at the joints. Laying is constantly controlled by the level, otherwise the coating will be uneven. If installation or a barbecue is planned in the kitchen, it is not necessary to veneer the floor under them. After completion of work, the seams are cleaned of dust and residues of the solution, and then rubbed with a special mixture.

Step 6. Arrangement of the kitchen

For greater comfort, the space between the floor and horizontal lintels can be sheathed with boards or closed with wooden curly grates, leaving the doorway free. They install a stove, benches and a table, supply electricity and water. In conclusion, wooden surfaces are stained and varnished or painted, protecting the wood from environmental influences.

Prices for different types of building boards

Building boards

Construction of a closed kitchen

Closed kitchens are also very diverse, but the most convenient and easy to implement is a frame structure made of timber on a columnar foundation. For sheathing, it is recommended to use clapboard or OSB boards.

In the process of work you will need:

Circular Saw;
jigsaw;
drill and screwdriver;
building level;
shovel;
a hammer;
roulette;
dry planed timber 100x100 mm;
boards 25 mm thick;
long cord and pegs for beacons;
ruberoid;
cement mortar;
building studs;
working out;
nails and screws;
sand.

Step 1. Marking the site

The selected site needs to be prepared: level the hills, remove tall grass, stones, debris. Now you need to determine where the facade line will be located, and put 2 beacons on it. The distance between the pegs is equal to the length of the facade. Perpendicular to this line, the length of the side walls is measured from each beacon and marks are also placed. A cord is pulled between the beacons, and diagonals are measured in the resulting rectangle. If they are equal, the markup is correct. In the center of each side of the future kitchen and at the intersection of the diagonals, it is also necessary to drive in pegs - these are marks for intermediate pillars.

Step 2. Foundation preparation

They dig holes with a shovel in places marked with pegs to a depth of 40 cm; the dimensions of the pit should correspond to two cinder blocks laid flat. The walls and bottom of the pits are leveled, a 10 cm layer of sand is covered and rammed. 2 lower cinder blocks are laid on the sand, covered with a solution, a construction pin is inserted in the center so that it rises about 25-30 cm above the soil surface. Then the second row of the cinder block is placed on top across the first, again the solution and the third row. Finished poles must have the same height and be located on the same level.

Step 3. Mounting the bottom trim

The lower harness consists of two rows of timber, knocked together. All bars are generously coated with used oil, paying special attention to cuts, and then dried. In the beams of the lower row, you need to make holes for the studs, and in the upper row, cut grooves for the floor beams. The depth of the grooves corresponds to half the thickness of the beam, and the width is equal to the thickness of the crossbar.

Pieces of roofing material are laid on top of the pillars, putting them directly on the studs. The lower bars are applied to the pillars, the location of the stud is marked, holes of the appropriate diameter are drilled. Then they are laid on the foundation, the studs are threaded into the holes and the nuts are tightened. The ends of the studs should not protrude above the surface of the beam, on the contrary, it is better when they are slightly recessed into the tree. Check the strapping with a level around the entire perimeter to avoid distortions. Now you need to lay the top row of beams, nail them, insert the floor beams into the grooves. For greater reliability, it is better to strengthen the internal joints with metal plates with screws.

Step 4. Summer kitchen - log house

Such a summer kitchen has a beautiful appearance, is environmentally friendly and retains heat well indoors. However, it is extremely important to treat the material with fire-retardant impregnation in order to exclude the possibility of wood damage by insects.

It is worth remembering that the log house will shrink for several years, so it is not recommended to additionally sheathe the walls of the summer kitchen.

In order for the walls to be even inside the room, each log is hewn along the entire length with a planer or grinder. At the ends of the logs, grooves are cut for joining (the "paw" method). This method was not chosen by chance. Firstly, the logs will be used without residue, and secondly, even if the corner joint has a small gap, this will not affect the functionality and convenience of the summer kitchen.

To build a mortgage crown, we lay two logs opposite each other. We put two more perpendicularly on them. We adjust this square to a single plane so that it clearly lies horizontally on the lower trim of the future summer kitchen. Next, the following logs are marked, cut down and laid, between which we lay a heater, for example, moss or felt.

The openings for the doors and windows of the summer kitchen will be cut down in the future. The double-glazed windows themselves and the front door, together with the components, will be installed after the completion of the roof installation process. We bring to your attention a photo report of the construction of a summer kitchen 7x3 m.

Video - Cutting "in the paw"

Step 5 Mounting the roof

Roof trusses are knocked down from boards with a section of 150x50 mm, reinforced inside with spacers and mounted to the upper trim. The ends should protrude beyond the perimeter of the walls by 10-15 cm. The distance between the trusses is approximately 1.5 m. The roof elements are fastened to the trim using metal plates and bolts. After installing the rafters, a ridge is stuffed along the trusses, and then the roof frame is sheathed with boards. A corrugated board, slate or other roofing material is laid on the crate.

The roof is covered with ondulin

How Wrong Windows Installed

Summer kitchen 7x3 m	Project
Kitchen height	Height from floor to ceiling: 2.15 m. (+-5 cm). Skate height: 1.5 m (+-5 cm)
	Support-columnar blocks (one bedside table measuring 400x400x4000 mm consists of four cement blocks measuring 200x200x400, interconnected by a sand-cement mixture).
Base binding	Unplaned timber with a section of 100x150mm. The harness is laid in 1 row on the edge.
Sexual lags	Unplaned timber 40x150 mm. with a laying step of 700 mm.
log cabin	Profiled timber with a section of 90x140 mm, natural humidity
Log house assembly	The log house is assembled on metal dowels (nails 200 mm).
Assembly of log corners	Assembling the corner into a "warm corner"
Mezhventsovye warming	A flax-jute cloth is laid between the crowns
Partitions	Partition timber 90x140 natural humidity.
Floor	Double floor: draft floor: edged board 20 mm; finished floor: grooved floorboard 36 mm. (chamber drying). It is insulated with KNAUF mineral wool 50 mm., ONDUTIS insulation is laid in 2 layers.
Ceiling beams	Unplaned timber 40x100 mm. with a laying step of 700 mm.
Ceiling	The ceiling is hemmed with clapboard of coniferous species (chamber drying). The ceiling is insulated with 50 mm KNAUF mineral wool, ONDUTIS insulation is laid.
truss construction	Bar 40x100 mm. with a laying step of 1000 mm.
roof lathing	The crate is made from a 20 mm edged board. (through the board).
Terrace
	According to the project of the kitchen - gable.
Gables	Sheathed with clapboard of coniferous species (chamber drying). Ventilation grilles are installed in the kitchen gables (prevent the formation of condensate).
Celestials and cornices (roof overhangs)	They are sewn up with clapboard of coniferous species (chamber drying). Overhang width: 350 - 450 mm (4 linings).
roofing material	Ondulin, color to choose from: red, brown, green.
Window	Wooden with double glazing, installed according to the project. The size of window blocks is 1x1.2 m. Casing bars (swarms) are installed in the openings.
doors	Paneled. Casing bars (swarms) are installed in the openings.
Room decoration	All corners and joints in the kitchen are sealed with plinth; window, doorways are surrounded by a platband.
Terrace	Support poles are installed with compensation lifts (jacks) for shrinkage. Terrace finishing: railings - carved, balusters - chiselled. Steps are installed at the entrance.

Step 6. Arrangement of the kitchen

When the basic processes are completed, you should come to grips with the internal arrangement of the kitchen. The walls can be sheathed with plastic or, since the frame sheathed with plywood does not look very aesthetically pleasing. Then they install a stove, a sink, connect electricity and water, and arrange kitchen furniture. On this, the construction of a closed kitchen can be considered completed.

Prices for drywall and sheet materials

Drywall and sheet materials

Video - Do-it-yourself summer kitchen

What elements should a summer kitchen consist of?

If you properly equip the summer kitchen, then being in it in the summer will be a real pleasure. It is not hot to cook there, it is convenient to preserve, the floor in the house does not get dirty with dirty shoes, and it is completely pleasant to dine outdoors.

But, if you choose the wrong location, then instead of convenience, you will get an extra headache and unnecessary fuss: carrying dishes, cans over a long distance, running back and forth.

Therefore, let's immediately decide what must certainly be present in the summer kitchen:

Cooking oven
Brazier
Dishwasher
Working table for cooking
Cupboards for dishes and jars
Shelves or hanging drawers for dishes
Dining table and chairs

These are all the main elements, without which it will not be very comfortable to use the room, and they should be in any case. And there are also auxiliary ones, without which it is quite possible to do, but if they are present, then it will definitely not be worse, only better.

Cellar adjoining the summer kitchen
small woodcutter
Sofa
Television
Swing

As you can see, if you add these modules, then the summer kitchen will be multifunctional, cozy and you can spend almost all day outdoors.

Where should the summer kitchen be located?

But not only the choice of elements depends on success. The main thing is the location! It used to be customary to build a summer kitchen as a separate house without heating, away from the main building.

Now it does not seem convenient anymore, since it is difficult to bring communications and the building itself does not look very harmonious in the middle of the yard.

The best solution is the location of the summer kitchen - adjacent to the main house, and in such a way that you can go into it from there. Or from the main door, or from the side entrance. Also good options were discussed in the article "".

Also, choose the right wall to which the summer kitchen will adjoin. If you attach it to the one where the main windows of the room are located, then the house will become dark and damp, from the fact that sunlight does not fall. It is better that it be a blank wall with a side exit.

If you want to equip a cellar adjacent to the summer kitchen, then do not forget an important thing: you cannot dig a large hole near the foundation of the house, since in this case the earth layer may subside and the building will roll. Therefore, you need to dig it at least 3.5 meters further from the foundation.

Another important point: what type of room you will have. An open area or a full extension in the form of a veranda. Let's take a closer look at this, because hasty savings at the planning stage can then turn into many years of annoyance and regrets.

Summer open kitchens

They have their advantages, the main of which is budget. In order to organize such a zone, a lot of expenses are not needed, there is no need to fill the foundation, put windows, erect walls. The only thing you need:

Concreting of the area under the kitchen
The erection of supporting pillars under a canopy
Roof decking
Construction of the oven and barbecue
Organization of the working area and washing

That is, at least twice the consumption is reduced. But besides the budget, there is another plus here: the space is open, which is a pleasure.

True, only in good weather. But for bad weather there is a main kitchen in the house! And does it make sense to equip another one? Let's clear this up as well.

Summer kitchens

Why did summer kitchens used to be made separately from the house, in the form of separate houses? Mainly because stove heating was used and during the conservation season, during cooking, the walls of the summer kitchen were very hot. And if the main house were so fired up, then it would be simply impossible to sleep in it. To lay out outdoor stoves, like "Finnish", then they did not guess, apparently.

Also, the summer kitchen was used as a guest house, in case guests arrived. They put a sofa, a wardrobe, and also made a separate utility block for storing boxes, glass jars, nets for drying fruits, herbs and other equipment for harvesting, which was quite a lot.

And besides this, they made animal feed, stirred and crushed grain, beat butter, etc. Therefore, the premises had to be closed, so that in case of bad weather the mass of provisions would not be damaged.

Now, few people are engaged in raising livestock and the original purpose of the closed kitchen has lost its rationality. Yes, and a guest house is not always needed, since for these purposes you can use any extra room in the house.

So, now there is no particular need to build a capital structure, but making a summer kitchen completely open is also not an option. Best of all - the combined type and below you will find out why.

Combined summer kitchens

You can combine in different ways. You can make an area with a stove, a desktop and a small utility block indoors, and leave the dining table under a canopy, or vice versa. Some people really enjoy cooking outdoors.

But the best option is to make the hozblok in the form of a closed room adjacent to the terrace, and leave the stove, work table and dining table just under a canopy, but with a slight amendment: fix sliding shutters under the roof, which can be closed in case of bad weather. Or, immediately make glazed frames, some of them to move apart, forming an open area.

But the hozblok should be with walls, since during long rains the vegetables that are stored there can become damp. If you have a cellar instead of a hozblok, then even better!

What is the best way to make a roof?

Of course, it would be nice if the roof of the summer kitchen was combined with the main floor of the house. Especially if the summer kitchen is adjacent to it.

But to do this does not always work out for only one reason: now metal roofs, such as metal tiles, are not uncommon. And if on the main house they are insulated from below, sheathed with wood, which guarantees some sound insulation, then in the summer kitchen there is no need for such things.

And if the canopy is made of metal, then you simply cannot be there in the rainy season. The knock will be so strong, peculiar and unpleasant that all the charm of eating in the open air will be nullified and you will have to urgently retreat to the house.

Therefore, the main thing: choose a roof that does not knock even without additional sound insulation: slate, tiles, shingles.

What floor should be in the summer kitchen?

Do not forget that the summer kitchen is designed to make it comfortable for you to use it in the summer. And in the summer, as a rule, all owners of private houses spend a lot of time in the garden, and then, with dirty feet, go to the summer kitchen.

Therefore, there can be no talk of any wooden flooring, it is simply impractical. The best option is tile for the street. It can be soiled three times, and then easily washed even with a hose (provided, of course, that your area is open and without large sides).

Stove in the summer kitchen

There are many options here. The simplest of them is the installation of a conventional gas furnace and cylinder. But still, it is better to spend a little more effort initially and lay out a real, wood-burning stove. It is much more economical during the conservation season, while building it is not as difficult as homemade. And she looks much more comfortable, whatever one may say.

You can make a very budgetary "Finnish", or you can make a whole complex, including a barbecue, a place for cooking, a built-in cauldron, a place for firewood. Everything here depends on your imagination and financial limit.

A brick chimney, which, when building a home stove, is more expensive than the cooking surface itself, can be replaced in the summer version with an inexpensive galvanized pipe.

Cellar in the summer kitchen

Believe me, this is a very, very convenient solution! If you still do not have a cellar, then it is difficult to think of a better place for it.

And most importantly, do not save on its area inside and ease of descent. Dig a small hole, then to go down the wooden stairs, standing upright - stupid. Then you will regret your hasty decision ten times over.

It is better to make the cellar large, wide and with a gentle slope. Let it be initially more expensive and more difficult, but then it will delight you all your life.

The optimal depth of the cellar is 3 meters down. You should not do less, otherwise it will always be damp and there will not be a stable temperature.

Width - about three by three meters. For the descent - about 1.5 meters, while the entrance should be from above, in the form of a separate entrance. That is, a hole is dug, and walls are formed at the place of descent, which gradually come to naught.

Be sure to consider the location of groundwater on the site. If they are close, then the cellar is not worth digging at all, since at a shallow depth it makes no special sense.

Sink in the summer kitchen

Without her - nowhere! Running to the house or to the well is inconvenient. Try to install a double sink at once, since one compartment is never enough in the open air.

Also, be sure to put a small water heater above it. And even better, put a 100-liter tank on the roof of the building for heating by the sun, or bring the sink to the summer shower tank.

Work table in the summer kitchen

Here it is necessary to make not only a countertop, but also cabinets with shelves. Without them, it will be difficult to accommodate comfortably. Moreover, if you do not do this, then in case of bad weather or hail, you will have to immediately bring all the dishes and equipment into the house, which will cause a lot of trouble.

Also, if there are no shelves and cabinets, you will have to take the necessary cooking equipment out of the house all the time, and if there are convenient storage places, they can be there all season.

Dining area in the summer kitchen

One thing can be said here: always count on the maximum number of people who can accommodate at your table, and not only on weekdays, but also on holidays.

Don't make this place too narrow. The minimum width should be 3 meters, and the length is already at your discretion, but approximately, about the same 3 meters.

Here are examples of the successful arrangement of tables in the summer kitchen:

Swing in the summer kitchen

A very unusual solution, while adding comfort. In America, swings are usually hung on the terrace, but we can easily place them in the summer kitchen, especially if it is open. See how wonderful it looks in the interior:

They can be placed in any convenient corner of the summer kitchen. The main thing is that they do not interfere with sitting at the table and cooking.

Summer kitchen design in a private house

The most important thing, namely functionality - we discussed. Now let's talk about beauty, which is equally important. The design of a summer kitchen in a private house can be so interesting and unusual that it will make all passers-by stop and look at your building.

Here are examples of interesting summer kitchen options that you can take as a basis for planning:

In conclusion, I would like to say that a summer kitchen in a private house is a necessary thing, and if you have a question whether it is needed at all, then we can answer: it is absolutely necessary!

A beautiful, practical and cozy summer kitchen is needed in every country house. We will show step by step and in detail the construction of a summer kitchen with our own hands.

Do-it-yourself modern summer kitchen in the country house.

If you want to place a summer kitchen on a veranda or terrace that has already been built, then preparatory work will be kept to a minimum.

But if you are going to place the kitchen separately, then you need to make a foundation for it.

The shape and size of the foundation depends on the kitchen layout you choose. It is not necessary to deeply deepen the foundation, because. the load on it will be relatively small. Already at this stage, you can supply water and electricity.

A drain for waste water should also be provided. If you have sandy or sandy soil, then a simple filtration well is enough to drain from the sink. And since this will not be the main sink, and the volume of wastewater will be small, an old barrel or other container is quite suitable for arranging such a well.

Holes are drilled in the bottom and walls of the barrel to make a sieve, and crushed stone is poured under and around it.

At the top, the formwork is being built again. We will pour concrete into it, and thus get the basis for the future work surface.

But first you need to separate communications.

We pour concrete and wait until it hardens.

You can proceed to the installation of equipment and decoration.

For surface finishing, we chose tiles - they are practical and durable. And we plastered and painted the walls of the blocks.

In our project, we decided to install a small canopy over the working area.

The canopy will protect us from the sun, in addition, lighting is mounted on it.

If you prefer to shelter from the weather, then you can modify this version of the summer kitchen by installing a more substantial canopy.

A modern summer kitchen made by yourself will become a favorite place for the whole family in your country house.

A simple DIY summer kitchen project

If the prospect of such capital construction scares you, then you can build a summer kitchen on a frame made of wood or a metal profile that is used to install drywall.

This method is much faster and easier, but it is desirable to place such kitchens under a canopy and on a prepared surface (on a terrace, on a tiled courtyard, etc.)