Distance from radiator to wall snip. Distance from the radiator to the wall: fastening, determining the required gap, installation of floor and wall types. Where and how to place

Choosing a radiator
What type of radiator to choose
Required number of sections
Preliminary work
What tools will you need?
Let's start installation
Installation sequence
How to improve the quality of radiator operation
Bottom line
Video

Installation process heating batteries in an apartment or private house is not very difficult for any owner. However, there are certain rules for installing batteries that must be followed in order for the heating to function properly. This will be discussed further in the material.

There is a wide variety of options available for consumers to choose from heating devices, which can sometimes be quite difficult to understand. Moreover, products from different categories are aimed at buyers with different income levels, that is, they can differ significantly in price. However, in any case, it is worth understanding the rules for installing radiators, since even a fairly cheap device can be as efficient as an expensive one if it is installed correctly.

Please note that the price factor is not fundamental in the process of choosing a heating radiator.

In this case, the following conditions should be taken into account:

Region of residence.
Type of heating wiring.
Suggested method of radiator installation.
Temperature regime of the heating system.
Material heating pipes.
Placement of a heated room in the house.
The need for fittings and control elements.

After considering all these factors, you can proceed directly to the selection of heating devices. If you are not confident in your abilities, it is advisable to consult with professionals and read about the characteristics of certain devices.

What type of radiator to choose

All heating devices offered on the market can be divided into several categories:

aluminum;
bimetallic;
vacuum;
steel;
cast iron.

Please note that when choosing a specific type of heating radiator, it is advisable to look at descriptions and consumer reviews of several models from the same category. This will allow you to get an idea of the functionality of a particular type of battery and choose the one that suits you best.

After you decide, ask for the opinion of experienced specialists. If your points of view coincide, you are on the right path.

Required number of sections

Before you start installing radiators of any type, you need to calculate the number of sections. At points of sale, they can roughly guide you by the number of teeth, based on the size of the room. Using the calculation formula, you can decide on the number of sections yourself.

So, if the ceiling height in the apartment does not exceed 3 m, then 1 radiator section should be enough to heat 2 m2 of room area. By dividing total area rooms at the specified rate and, rounding it up to a whole number, you can get the number of sections.

However, the calculation example described above is not entirely correct, since the level of insulation and the location of the room are individual in each case. For example, in a carefully insulated apartment and in an old Khrushchev building, the temperature of the air heated by the same radiators will be different. Consequently, the number of sections and the total cost of the heating system in each case differs significantly.

Preliminary work

Before we begin describing the rules for installing heating radiators, let us dwell in more detail on some preliminary measures:

We prepare a set of tools that we will need during the work process;
We measure the area of the room and calculate the number of radiator sections;
we are considering additional mechanisms that may be needed for repairs in the future;
we study the installation diagram of heating radiators (one-sided, diagonal or other options), and also study the basic rules, in particular, at what height to install heating radiators, what gaps and indentations to observe, etc.;
We prepare ourselves mentally for the fact that the process of dismantling and replacing batteries will take a lot of time and effort.

What tools will you need?

To correctly install heating radiators, you will need the following set of tools:

a set of open-end wrenches or an adjustable wrench;
pliers;
impact drill and drill bits with pobedit tips;
screwdriver;
hydraulic level;
pencil and tape measure.

Please note that cleaning of mating surfaces cannot be carried out sandpaper or files, as this will reduce the tightness of the connection.

Let's start installation

Whatever type of heating radiators they are, the installation rules for them will be the same. All of the following requirements are regulated by SNiP.

So, to ensure proper circulation air and increase the efficiency of the radiator, the following standards must be observed:

provided that the batteries are located under the window, the gap between the device and the window sill should be within 5-10 cm;
a gap of at least 10 cm must be provided from the floor to the heating device;
the distance from the radiator to the wall should be at least 2 cm, but not more than 5 cm (for more details: “What should be the distance from the wall to the radiator - rules for attaching heating radiators”). In cases where a layer of thermal insulation with a reflective surface is placed on the walls, brackets that are slightly longer than usual can be purchased to position heating radiators under the window.

Installation sequence

Very often, consumers ask questions about how and at what distance to hang heating radiators so that the system functions correctly.

Here is the sequence of work to make it clear when and what needs to be done:

First you need to prepare workplace– drain the water from the system and, if necessary, remove old batteries.
Next, they begin marking the wall for attaching brackets for radiators.
The next step is to fix the brackets in the wall.
Now you can hang the radiator.
Next, they proceed to connecting heating pipes and fittings to the battery. This work should be performed especially carefully to avoid depressurization of seams and possible coolant leaks.
At the final stage, the heating system is filled with water and the connections are checked for tightness. To do this, it is better to invite an assistant.

If for some reason you do not want or are unable to install radiators yourself, you can order this service directly when purchasing heating devices.

How to improve the quality of radiator operation

Of course, every owner wants installed batteries lasted as long as possible and provided sufficient heat for comfortable stay. To achieve this, it is recommended to install thermostatic devices. In addition, when starting work, do not neglect consultations with experienced specialists.

Bottom line

We hope that the above information about the rules for installing heating radiators will be useful to you. Provided that all standards are followed, the heating will function correctly, and the installation process itself will not be difficult for you.

To ensure the necessary heat exchange in the room, when installing a heating radiator, you should be guided by the following standard installation dimensions.

	Magnitude	Source of standard
	Not less than 25 mm. For medical and children's institutions not less than 60 mm.	clause 3.20. SNiP 3.05.01-85 “Internal sanitary systems”
	Not less than 60 mm. For medical and children's institutions not less than 100 mm.
	Not less than 50 mm. If there is no window sill board, to the bottom of the window opening.
	No more than 400 mm.
	150 ±50 mm
	Not less than 100 mm.
	The connection of heating devices “on a coupling” may be provided within the same room. Heating appliances in dressing rooms, corridors, restrooms, washrooms, and storage rooms may be connected “on a hitch” to appliances in adjacent rooms. It is recommended to connect radiators using pipes with a diameter equal to the diameter connecting radiator intersection nipples (cast iron - D32 (1¼″), aluminum D25 (1″)). It is not recommended to make the hitch longer than 1.5 meters.
	Center distance between pipe connections to the radiator. As a rule, these are 300, 400, 500, 600,800 mm. There are currently many on sale various designs radiators with a center distance of 50 mm, so now the best-selling radiators with a center distance of 350 and 500 mm.	clause 4.1. GOST 8690-94 “Cast iron heating radiators”
	AND evil . – amount (in%) of heat transferred from the device in the form of radiation energy (infrared waves); TO onv . – the amount (in%) of heat transferred from the device in the form of convection (upward movement of warm air) For radiators I/C= 80 / 20 (%). For convectors I/C = 20 / 80 (%).

The following regulatory requirements also apply for the installation of a heating system:

	Source of standard
It is recommended to use two-pipe heating systems. In floor-to-floor pipe distributions, it is recommended to use: a “radial” scheme with centrally located supply and return collectors; two-pipe scheme with wiring around the perimeter of the house.	clause 7.2.2 SP 31-106-2002 “Design and construction engineering systems single-family residential buildings"
The temperature of the open surface of a water heating radiator, unless measures are taken to prevent accidental human touching it, should not exceed 70 °C.	clause 7.2.4 SP 31-106-2002 “Design and construction of engineering systems of single-apartment residential buildings”
Heating appliances in rooms of categories A, B, C should be placed at a distance (clear) of at least 100 mm from the surface of the walls. It is not allowed to place heating devices in niches.	clause 3.45. SNiP 2.04.05-91* “Heating, ventilation, air conditioning” Clause 6.5.2 SNiP 41-01-2003 “Heating, ventilation and air conditioning”
When calculating heating devices, 90% of the heat flow entering the room from heating pipelines should be taken into account.	clause 3.46. SNiP 2.04.05-91* “Heating, ventilation, air conditioning”
The rated heat flux of the heating device should not be taken less than 5% or 60 W required by calculation.	clause 3.47. SNiP 2.04.05-91* “Heating, ventilation, air conditioning”
Heating devices should be placed, as a rule, under light openings in places accessible for inspection, repair and cleaning. The length of the heating device should, as a rule, be at least 75% of the length of the light opening in hospitals, children's preschool institutions, schools, homes for the elderly and disabled, and 50% in residential and public buildings.	clause 3.48. SNiP 2.04.05-91* “Heating, ventilation, air conditioning” P.6.5.5. SNiP 41-01-2003 “Heating, ventilation and air conditioning”
The connection of heating devices “on a coupling” may be provided within the same room. Heating appliances in dressing rooms, corridors, restrooms, washrooms, and storage rooms may be connected “on a hitch” to appliances in adjacent rooms.	clause 3.52. SNiP 2.04.05-91* “Heating, ventilation, air conditioning”
Versatile connections of pipelines should be provided for radiators with more than 20 sections (more than 15 in systems with natural circulation), as well as to radiators connected “on a hitch”, if there are more than two of them.	clause 3.54. SNiP 2.04.05-91* “Heating, ventilation, air conditioning”
Decorative screens (grids) may be provided for heating appliances (except for convectors with casings) in public buildings, taking into account access to heating appliances for cleaning them. The rated heat flow of a heating device when using a screen (grid) should not exceed by more than 10% the rated heat flow of an openly installed heating device.	clause 3.58. SNiP 2.04.05-91* “Heating, ventilation, air conditioning”
Heating devices should have control valves installed, with the exception of devices in dressing rooms, showers, sanitary facilities, storerooms, as well as in rooms where there is a danger of freezing of the coolant (at stairwells, in vestibules, etc.).In residential and public buildings, automatic thermostats should, as a rule, be installed near heating devices.	Radiator height from floor 3.59. SNiP 2.04.05-91 “Heating, ventilation, air conditioning” clause 6.5.13 SNiP 41-01-2003 “Heating, ventilation and air conditioning”
Control valves for heating devices of single-pipe heating systems should be taken with minimal hydraulic resistance, and for devices of two-pipe systems - with increased resistance.	clause 3.60. SNiP 2.04.05-91* “Heating, ventilation, air conditioning” Clause 7.2.8.2 SP 31-106-2002 “Design and construction of engineering systems of single-apartment residential buildings”
Shut-off valves should be provided: to shut off and drain water from individual rings, branches and risers of heating systems; for condensate drains and automatically or remotely controlled valves. For other equipment, shut-off valves should be provided during a feasibility study; to turn off part or all heating devices in rooms in which heating is used periodically or partially. Shut-off valves may not be provided on risers in buildings with three or fewer floors.	clause 3.61. SNiP 2.04.05-91* “Heating, ventilation, air conditioning”
The slopes of the lines to the heating devices should be made from 5 to 10 mm per length of the line in the direction of movement of the coolant. For line lengths up to 500 mm, the pipes should not be sloped.	clause 3.18 SNiP 3.05.01-85 Internal sanitary systems
Radiators of all types should be installed at distances, mm, not less than: 60 - from the floor, 50 - from the bottom surface of the window sill boards and 25 - from the surface of the plaster walls. In the premises of medical, preventive and children's institutions, radiators should be installed at a distance of at least 100 mm from the floor and 60 mm from the wall surface. In the absence of a window sill board, a distance of 50 mm should be taken from the top of the device to the bottom of the window opening. When laying pipelines openly, the distance from the surface of the niche to the heating devices should ensure the possibility of laying connections to the heating devices in a straight line.	clause 3.20. SNiP 3.05.01-85 Internal sanitary systems
To join copper pipes with a heating device made of aluminum and its alloys, threaded adapters made of stainless steel or bronze should be used	clause 3.2.1 SP 40-108-2004 Design and installation internal systems water supply and heating of buildings from copper pipes
When installing a heating device under a window, its edge on the riser side, as a rule, should not extend beyond the window opening. At the same time, the combination of the vertical axes of symmetry of heating devices and window openings not necessary.	clause 3.23. SNiP 3.05.01-85 Internal sanitary systems
When air is released from aluminum radiators It is not allowed to bring an open flame to the air outlet valve	clause 6.4. GOST 31311-2005 Heating devices. General technical conditions.
Heating appliances must be constantly filled with water, both during heating and non-heating periods. Emptying the heating system is allowed only in emergency cases for the minimum period necessary to eliminate the emergency, but not more than 15 days during the year	clause 10.2. GOST 31311-2005 Heating devices. General technical conditions.
Heating appliances must be cleaned of dust before starting heating season and every 3 - 4 months of work	clause 10.4. GOST 31311-2005 Heating devices. General technical conditions.
In a one-pipe heating system with one-sided connection of heating devices, the open riser should be located at a distance of 150 ± 50 mm from the edge of the window opening, and the length of the connections to the heating devices should be no more than 400 mm.	clause 3.24. SNiP 3.05.01-85 Internal sanitary systems

Rules for successfully installing batteries in the house.

At what height should radiators be hung?

Choosing the right power heating radiators we often do not get the desired warmth in the house. What does their effective work depend on?

In order for the heating system to work correctly and efficiently, radiators must be correctly placed and mounted. Regardless of what heating system you use (autonomous or centralized), the rules for installing radiators are the same.

Location of heating radiators

The radiator must be installed so that it works with 100% efficiency. The best option installations - under the window. The greatest heat loss in the house occurs through the windows. The location of heating radiators under the window prevents heat loss and the appearance of condensation on the glass. At large windows use radiators 30 cm high, or place them directly next to the window.

The recommended distance from the floor to the radiator is 5-10 cm, from the radiator to the window sill - 3-5 cm. From the wall to the back surface of the battery is 3-5 cm. If you plan to stick some kind of heat-reflecting material behind the radiator, you can reduce the distance between wall and battery to a minimum (3 cm).

The radiator must be installed strictly at right angles, both horizontally and vertically - any deviation leads to air accumulation, which leads to corrosion of the radiator.

Pipes in the heating system

Advice for those who have central heating in their home. Usually for heating systems apartment buildings metal pipes are used.

If the apartment has a metal riser pipe, you cannot switch to polypropylene heating pipes!

In central heating, changes in coolant temperature and pressure often occur - apartment wiring and radiators will fail within a year.

Also, never use unreinforced polypropylene pipes– they are designed for use for water supply and are destroyed at a coolant temperature of +90°C.

Fittings for heating radiators

In order to make you comfortable during the heating season, you need to install thermostats on each radiator. This way you can save money by shutting off batteries in unused rooms and control the temperature in the house. You can purchase programmable thermostats - they will turn the radiator off/on, maintaining the required temperature.

Installation of thermostats on each radiator is possible in two-pipe system heating. In single-pipe (in multi-apartment and high-rise buildings) The thermoregulation system is equipped with a jumper in front of the battery - a bypass. A bypass is a pipe installed perpendicularly between the supply and return. The bypass pipe must be smaller in diameter than the pipes used in the heating system wiring.

A Mayevsky valve is also installed on the battery - a valve for removing air from the system. These elements simplify radiator management and facilitate their repair.

Obstacles to room heating

Effective heat transfer is also affected by barriers that we ourselves create. This may include long curtains(70% heat loss), protruding window sills (10%) and decorative grilles. Blackout curtains to the floor prevent air circulation in the room - you simply heat the window and flowers on the windowsill. The same effect, but with less consequences, is created by a window sill that completely covers the battery on top. A dense decorative screen (especially with a top panel) and placement of the battery in a niche reduce the efficiency of the radiator by 20%.

Correct installation of heating radiators is one of the main components of the high-quality functioning of the heating system as a whole. You should not be led by savings at the expense of comfortable heating.

Why is it important to maintain the dimensions of the gap between the radiator and the wall?
How to properly install a radiator with a wall mounting option
How to attach a floor battery
Conclusions
Video

In order for the heating system to work with the greatest heat transfer, it is important not only to select highly efficient equipment, but also to install it efficiently. Great value has correct installation radiators. And here there can be no trifles, you need to maintain all the parameters: angle of inclination, choice of mounting system, but it is especially important to consider what the distance from the wall to the radiator should be.

Why is it important to maintain the dimensions of the gap between the radiator and the wall?

When installing a heating system, you need to adhere to the following scheme: the more powerful the radiator in terms of its thermal characteristics, the wider the gap to the wall will be. As a rule, its size ranges from 2.5 cm to 6 cm.

Specific dimensions consist of two parameters:

real possibility of installation (window sill width, niche dimensions);
power of the heating device.

If foil heat-reflecting material is glued to the wall, the distance can be minimal (2.5 cm - 3 cm).

It is not recommended to install a heating device close to the wall for many reasons:

to ensure free heat transfer from the entire surface of the radiator, conditions must be created for free air circulation around the device; if you place the radiator close to the wall, this process will be disrupted and the heat will be partially lost;
when the radiator is “pressed” to the wall, there will be a constant hold on its back surface high level temperature, as a result the device will fail faster due to overheating;
in the narrow gap between the radiator and the wall, debris and dust will accumulate, which will also impede heat exchange;
if not glued heat reflecting plate, the radiator will “waste” heat the external walls, and in apartment buildings they are usually concrete and have low thermal insulation properties.

Important. Due to an incorrectly set distance to the wall, both the water radiator and the electric one will overheat. Moreover, electric ones run the risk of shorting, while water ones will be susceptible to corrosion.

The distance from the floor to the heating radiator is also kept optimal for each heating device. Therefore, proper installation of the radiator is important for efficient heating premises.

How to properly install a radiator with a wall mounting option

Installing a battery with wall mounting is easier than with floor version. Here it is important to know not only the size of the gap to the wall, but also the height of the heating radiators from the floor.

Installation steps for wall mounting:

They start by preparing the attachment site. Wall-mounted radiators are usually placed under window sills or attached to walls away from front door in order to rationally distribute the heat flow. First, a pipe is brought to the radiator installation site heating circuit. The wall behind the radiator is covered with foil insulation.
Basic rules for installing heating radiators - step-by-step guide

It will reflect heat back into the room.
It is necessary to make preliminary markings where the radiator will be mounted. Withstand following parameters: the distance from the floor to the radiator (bottom edge) and from the top edge of the radiator to the window sill is from 8 to 10 cm, but the width of the heating device itself should be 80 percent of the size of the window opening.
Then, using dowels, with a depth of at least 6 cm into the wall, fasteners are installed according to the marked marks.
The radiator is placed on the brackets, fixed and leveled.
The last point is connecting to the pipes. You can do a test run of the system to check the tightness of all connections.

Advice. The horizontal alignment of the radiator is very important point during installation. If this is not done, air will accumulate in the radiator. And this will lead not only to a decrease in energy efficiency, but also to corrosion of the device.

When using the wall mounting method under the windows, one more condition is observed: the centers of the radiator and window opening must match. Mounting systems vary in design (for example, the shape of the hangers), but they have the same task: to securely mount the radiator to the wall. Most often, fasteners are included with heating devices, and instructions are attached to them.

The entire installation process is not complicated, you just need to approach each stage responsibly.

How to attach a floor battery

You have to mount the battery on the floor if it is very heavy and hanging it on the wall is simply dangerous. There are special floor brackets for this purpose.

They are more expensive than wall-mounted ones, but they have no equal in terms of reliability of fastening. Most often, long heating radiators made of cast iron are attached to the floor, but sometimes aluminum and steel radiators also provide floor mounting.

It is most convenient to attach brackets intended for mounting floor radiators before pouring the screed to cover the fastening point.

Action steps for floor installation radiator:

select two brackets that are suitable for a given battery weight;
racks are installed on the base allocated for the battery using anchor bolts, maintaining a distance to the wall of at least 6 cm;
perform concrete work, covering the base of the brackets and bolt heads with a tie;
hooks placed on the racks are placed on required height, fix them with bolts (metal gaskets are also installed for protection, if provided for in the package);
The radiator is hung on the hooks, carefully aligning it horizontally.

The floor mounting system has great benefits, since all the weight from the battery falls on the floor. The remaining distance from the floor to the battery allows air flow to circulate.

Conclusions

Withstand correct distance from the wall to the heating radiator is always necessary, regardless of the design of the product, its shape or other operational characteristics.

It doesn’t matter what kind of heating system in a house or apartment: single-pipe or two-pipe, central or independent heating. In any case, space is needed for heat exchange between the air and the radiator.

If this rule is not followed, the energy efficiency of the heating system will be significantly reduced, and the radiators will last longer. short term. As a result, costs for energy resources, repairs or replacement of heating system components will increase.

Content

When installing or reconstructing a heating system, replacement or installation of batteries is often required. Installation of heating radiators can be done on your own, without resorting to the help of specialists, but only by strictly observing the requirements of SNiP. When performing work, both theoretical knowledge and practical experience, because even the slightest mistake can lead to problems during operation of the heating system.

Installation radiator battery

Necessary theory

There are two types of heating systems that are most widely used these days:

single-pipe;
two-pipe.

A special feature of single-pipe systems is the supply of coolant to the house from top to bottom. This scheme is used in most standard apartment buildings. The disadvantage of the system is the inability to control temperature conditions in the home without installing additional equipment. With this heating method, the water in the radiators on the upper floors will be significantly warmer than on those located below.

Heating system installation

With two-pipe heating, the heated coolant is supplied through one pipe, and the water that has given up its heat circulates through the second (return) pipe. This heating system is used in cottages and private houses. The advantage of two-pipe systems is the relative constancy of the temperature of the batteries and the ability to regulate the heating mode.

Radiator installation diagrams

The differences in installation schemes lie in the way they are connected to a private or centralized network.

The most common schemes are the following:

Lateral connection. Allows you to achieve the greatest heat transfer.
The supply pipe is connected to the pipe located at the top, and the return pipe is connected to the bottom. When connected in reverse (water supply from below), the power of the system is reduced.
The connection is diagonal. Optimal for batteries of considerable length, characterized by minimal heat loss.
In this case, the radiators are heated evenly. The inlet pipe is connected to one side of the upper pipe, and the outlet pipe is connected to the reverse side of the bottom pipe.
The lower connection (“Leningradka”) is used for hidden pipe laying.

Connection diagram options

Installation of heating devices according to this scheme, characterized by significant heat loss, is used when laying heating pipes in the area of the lower ceiling.

What is needed for installation

To secure heating devices, you will need to purchase various materials and additional devices. Their kit is almost identical, but for cast iron batteries, for example, stubs will be required larger diameter, installation of an air vent instead of a Mayevsky tap.

Installation of bimetallic and aluminum batteries absolutely the same.

When choosing a radiator, you should take into account that many manufacturers provide a warranty on devices only when installed by organizations that have the appropriate license.

Required tools and materials

When installing radiators with your own hands, you will definitely need to use brackets or holders. Their number is determined depending on the size of the radiators:

if you plan to install the device in no more than eight sections or up to 1.2 m in length, two points will be enough for reliable fastening - above and below;
Every subsequent 5-6 sections or 50 cm of battery length requires adding another pair of fasteners.

To install batteries you also need to purchase:

linen winding or fum tape;
drill with a set of drills;
level;
dowels;
elements for connecting fittings and pipes.

Mayevsky crane or automatic air vent

The Mayevsky tap is a device that is used at an unoccupied upper outlet. Serves to remove accumulated air. Such a device must be installed on each heating device when installing aluminum or bimetallic batteries. The cross-section of the Mayevsky tap is much smaller than the cross-section of the collector, therefore the connection is made using an adapter device supplied in the kit.

Mayevsky crane

In addition to the Mayevsky tap, you can also install automatic air vents on the battery, manufactured in nickel-plated or brass. For standard batteries, devices in white enamel housing are not available.

Stub

When connected to the side, the radiator has four outlets. Two of them are for supply and return, the third is occupied by the Mayevsky valve or air vent, and the fourth needs to be closed with a plug. They are made from a variety of materials to suit any type of battery.

Shut-off and control valves

To install and connect the battery correctly, you will also need a pair of shut-off or control valves installed at the inlet and outlet of each battery. Ordinary ball valves are required to quickly disconnect the device from the network during dismantling. The system will continue to work.

The advantage of ball valves is their low cost, the disadvantage is the inability to regulate heat transfer.

Ball valves

The same functions, but with the ability to regulate the intensity of the coolant flow, can be performed by regulating shut-off valves. Their cost differs greatly, but at the same time, their aesthetic characteristics are higher. They can be angular or straight.

You can also place a thermostat on the supply pipe behind the ball valve - a small device that allows you to change the heat transfer of the radiator. However, if the battery does not heat well, thermostats cannot be installed, as they will reduce the already low flow. Heat transfer can be controlled by turning the knob to the required division ( mechanical devices) or by programming the radiator operating mode in advance (electronic thermostats).

Rules and installation procedure

As a rule, a heating device is installed under the window, since the rising heated air cuts off the cold coming from the opening. To prevent glass fogging, the width of the radiator must be chosen to be 70–75% of the width of the window.

Basic installation rules

SNiP recommends the following rules for installing heating radiators to indentations:

The heating radiator is installed exactly in the middle of the window opening. Before installation, the width is divided into two, then the distances to the points of location of fasteners are set aside on the right and left sides.
The radiator should retreat from the floor level to a height of 8–14 cm. A smaller interval will lead to difficulties during cleaning, and a larger interval will lead to the formation of zones of unheated air.
Radiators should be hung at a distance of 10–12 cm from the windowsill. If you place the device closer, convection will worsen and heat transfer will decrease.
The distance from the wall to the radiator should be about 3–5 cm; this is the gap size that can ensure unhindered heat distribution and normal convection. If the location is too close to the walls, dust will accumulate on the back surface of the batteries, which is quite difficult to remove.

Taking into account the requirements of SNiP, it is possible to determine the optimal length of the battery and select the appropriate specific conditions model.

Distance from battery to window sill and floor

The above rules are the same for all types of radiators. Individual manufacturers set their own standards, which must be followed. Therefore, before purchasing, it is necessary to study the installation requirements and make sure that they can be met in specific conditions.

Work order

Installing a heating radiator with your own hands requires careful attention to each stage of work, taking into account every detail. To hang sections, experts recommend using three attachment points: two upper and one lower.

Any sectional battery is hung on holders through the upper collector. Thus, the mount located at the top bears the main load, and the holder located at the bottom serves as a guide and fixing element.

Features of the work

The process of installing heating batteries is carried out in several stages:

Marking and installing holders.
Installation of components on the battery.
Modern heating systems require mandatory installation automatic or manual air vent. The device is screwed into the adapter and placed on the upper manifold opposite the connection point of the supply pipe.
Unused collectors must have plugs installed.
If the diameters of the supply and return pipes differ from the cross-section of the collectors, adapters supplied as part of the standard kit should be installed.
Installation of regulating and locking devices.
Regardless of the adopted connection diagram, in any system, a shut-off valves in the form of full-bore ball valves, allowing battery dismantling without stopping the system in case of repair work or maintenance. The only condition is the presence of a bypass when installing the battery in apartments with a vertical type of wiring.
According to expert recommendations, an automatic or manual thermostat should be installed as a control device. The standards for installing heating radiators do not classify these devices as mandatory; they are required to maintain a temperature in the room that is comfortable for the owners.
Hanging on brackets.
Radiators are supplied in protective film. Before installing the heating radiator, you should not remove the film from the surface - it will protect from dirt and scratches, since the battery is usually installed at the beginning of repair work. If the radiator is installed to replace the old one, the film can be removed immediately after hanging.
Connecting the supply and return pipes.
The connection depends on the circuit. The type of connection (crimped, threaded, welded or pressed) is selected based on the pipes and fittings used.
Pressure testing of the system or radiator.

When filling the system with coolant yourself, the taps should be opened little by little. Rapid opening of the taps will lead to water hammer, which can disable the battery and destroy the fittings.

Subtleties of attaching to the wall

Each battery manufacturer provides its own instructions, which outline requirements and installation tips. But one requirement is the same: the radiator should be mounted on a pre-leveled and cleaned wall.

Wall mount

Correct fastening brackets affects the efficiency of the heating system. Too much slope or skew in any direction can lead to incomplete heating of the battery, to eliminate which you will have to rehang the device. Therefore, when preparing the surface and making markings, the vertical and horizontal positions should be strictly observed. The battery must be hung evenly relative to all planes.

It is allowed to lift it by 1 cm from the side where the air vent is installed, which will cause air to accumulate in this area and make it easier to remove. Sloping in the opposite direction is not allowed.

Installing bimetallic radiators and other types of batteries with a small mass, hanging should be done on a pair of hooks located on top. If the length of the device is short, they should be placed between the last two sections. The location of the third bracket must be selected in the middle from the bottom. The hooks can be sealed with mortar after installation.

Hooks for fastening aluminum and bimetallic sections

When placing the brackets yourself, holes are drilled at the designated points and wooden plugs or dowels are installed. The holders are fastened with self-tapping screws with a length of 35 mm and a diameter of at least 6 mm. Such requirements are standard; the norm for a specific battery model is indicated in the technical data sheet.

Panel radiators are installed a little differently. Such devices are supplied with special fastening elements, the number of which depends on the size of the device.

To hang the heating radiator on its rear surface there are special brackets. To install fasteners, you need to know the distance from the center of the battery to the brackets and transfer it as marks on the wall. Next, applying fasteners, holes for dowels are marked. The steps are simple: drilling, installing dowels, securing the brackets with self-tapping screws.

Features of installing radiators in an apartment

Rules reviewed self-installation allow you to connect batteries in autonomous and centralized heating systems.

Before replacing or installing batteries, please note that work must be carried out after obtaining permission from the operator or management company– the heating system is considered common property. A significant change in network characteristics leads to system imbalance.

Bypass installation

Installing heating radiators in an apartment has another feature. Vertical single-pipe distribution requires the installation of a bypass - a special jumper between the supply pipe and the return pipe. In combination with ball valves, the bypass allows you to turn off the battery in case of an emergency or other urgent need. The system continues to function, as the heated water passes through the bypass.

A bypass will also be required when installing a battery with a thermostat.

Conclusion on the topic

The process of installing heating radiators, if you follow the instructions outlined in the article, should not raise any additional questions. With proper preparation, compliance with the sequence of work and a responsible attitude, the system will effectively serve for several decades.

For any type of radiator there is general rules for placing them indoors. There is also a certain sequence of actions that must be followed. The technology is simple, but there are many nuances.

How to place batteries

First of all, recommendations concern the installation location. Most often, heating devices are installed where heat loss is the most significant. And first of all these are windows. Even with modern energy-saving double-glazed windows, it is in these places that the most heat is lost. What can we say about old wooden frames?

If there is no radiator under the window, then cold air falls along the wall and spreads across the floor. Installing a battery changes the situation: warm air, rising up, prevents cold “draining” onto the floor. It must be remembered that in order for such protection to be effective, the radiator must occupy at least 70% of the width of the window. This norm is prescribed in SNiP. Therefore, when choosing radiators, keep in mind that a small radiator under the window will not provide the required level of comfort. In this case, there will be zones on the sides where the cold air will go down, and there will be cold zones on the floor. In this case, the window may often “sweat”, condensation will form on the walls in the place where warm and cold air collide, and dampness will appear.

For this reason, do not try to find the model with the highest heat output. This is justified only for regions with a very harsh climate. But in the north, even from the most powerful sections there are large size radiators. For central Russia, average heat transfer is required, for southern regions, low radiators are generally needed (with a small center distance). This is the only way you can fulfill the key rule for installing batteries: blocking most of the window opening.

In cold climates it makes sense to arrange thermal curtain and near the front door. This is the second problem area, but it is more typical for private houses. This problem may occur in ground floor apartments. The rules here are simple: you need to place the radiator as close to the door as possible. Choose a location depending on the layout, also taking into account the possibilities of piping.

Rules for installing heating radiators

The heating device must be located strictly in the middle of the window opening. When editing, find the middle and mark it. Then to the right and left you set the distance to the location of the fasteners.
The distance from the floor is 8-14 cm. If you make it smaller, it will be difficult to clean; if you make it larger, zones of cold air will form below.
The radiator should be 10-12 cm away from the window sill. With a closer location, convection worsens and thermal output decreases.
From the wall to back wall the distance should be 3-5 cm. This gap ensures normal convection and heat distribution. And one more thing: at a short distance, dust will settle on the wall.

Based on these requirements, determine the most suitable size radiator, and then look for a model that satisfies them.

These are general rules. Some manufacturers have their own recommendations. And take it as advice: before purchasing, carefully study the installation requirements. Make sure that all conditions suit you. Only then buy.

To reduce non-productive losses - due to heating the wall - attach foil or a thin foil heat insulator behind the radiator on the wall. This simple measure will save 10-15% on heating costs. This is how much heat transfer increases. But keep in mind that for normal “work,” there must be a distance of at least 2-3 cm from the shiny surface to the back wall of the radiator. Therefore, the heat insulator or foil must be fixed to the wall, and not just leaned against the radiator.

When should radiators be installed? At what stage of system installation? When using radiators with side connections, you can first hang them, then start laying out the pipeline. For bottom connection the picture is different: you only need to know center distance pipes In this case, radiators can be installed after the repair is completed.

Work order

When installing radiators with your own hands, it is important to do everything correctly and take into account all the little details. Experts advise using at least three fasteners when installing sectional batteries: two on top, one on the bottom. All sectional radiators, regardless of type, are hung on mounts with an upper manifold. It turns out that the upper holders bear the main load, the lower one serves to give direction.

The installation procedure is as follows:

We tried to describe in as much detail as possible the entire technology for installing heating radiators. It remains to clarify some points.

The most common. They are used for lateral connection heating devices of any type, sectional, panel, and tubular (click on the picture to enlarge its size)

Mounting the radiator to the wall

All manufacturers require installation of heating radiators on a prepared, level and clean wall. From correct location holders depends on the efficiency of heating. A skew in one direction or another will lead to the fact that the radiator will not heat and will have to be rebalanced. Therefore, when marking, be sure to maintain horizontal and vertical lines. The radiator must be installed level in any plane (check with a building level).

You can slightly raise the edge where the air vent is installed (about 1 cm). This way the air will predominantly accumulate in this part and it will be easier and faster to release it. Reverse tilt is not permitted.

Now about how to position the brackets. Sectional radiators of small mass - aluminum, bimetallic and tubular steel - are hung from above on two holders (hooks). If the batteries are short, they can be placed between the two outer sections. The third bracket is placed at the bottom in the middle. If the number of sections is odd, place it to the right or left on the nearest section. Usually, when installing hooks, mortar sealing is allowed.

To install the brackets, holes are drilled in the marked places, dowels or wooden plugs are installed. The holders are secured with self-tapping screws with a diameter of at least 6 mm and a length of at least 35 mm. But these are standard requirements; read the passport for the heating device for more details.

The installation of the holders is different, but not radically. For such devices, standard fasteners are usually included. There can be from two to four of them, depending on the length of the radiator (it can be three meters long).

There are brackets on the back panel with which they are hung. To install the mount, you need to measure the distance from the center of the radiator to the brackets. Set aside a similar distance on the wall (preliminarily mark where the middle of the battery will be located). Then we apply fasteners and mark the holes for the dowels. The next steps are standard: drill, install dowels, attach brackets and secure with self-tapping screws.

Features of installing radiators in an apartment

The given rules for installing heating radiators are general for individual systems and for centralized ones. But before installing new radiators, you must obtain permission from the management or operational company. The heating system is common property and all unauthorized alterations have consequences - administrative fines. The fact is that with a massive change in the parameters of the heating network (replacing pipes, radiators, installing thermostats, etc.), the system becomes unbalanced. This can lead to the entire riser (entrance) freezing in winter. Therefore, all changes require approval.

Types of wiring and connections of radiators in apartments (click on the picture to enlarge its size)

Another feature is of a technical nature. If it is vertical (one pipe enters through the ceiling, goes to the radiator, then exits and goes to the floor), when installing the radiator, install a bypass - a jumper between the supply and discharge pipelines. Paired with ball valves, this will give you the opportunity to turn off the radiator if desired (or in an emergency). In this case, no approval or permission from the manager is required: you have turned off your radiator, but the coolant continues to circulate through the riser through the bypass (that same jumper). You don't need to stop the system, pay for it, or listen to your neighbors' complaints.

A bypass is also needed when installing a radiator with a regulator in an apartment (the installation of the regulator also needs to be coordinated - it makes a big difference hydraulic resistance systems). The peculiarity of its operation is that it blocks the flow of coolant. If there is no jumper, the entire riser is blocked. Can you imagine the consequences...

Results

Installing heating radiators with your own hands is not the easiest, but also not the most difficult task. You just need to take into account that most manufacturers give guarantees only if heating devices are installed by representatives of organizations that have a license to do so. The fact of installation and crimping must be noted in the radiator’s passport, the installer’s signature and the company’s seal must be on it. If you don’t need a guarantee, your hands are in place, it’s quite possible to handle it.

Sooner or later, any heating radiator will have to be replaced. This happens if it fails and begins to leak. Or if such a quantity has accumulated on its inner surface over many years of operation lime deposits that it cannot cope with the heating function. This requires high-quality installation of heating radiators that meets the standards established by SNiP.

In a private house, installation can be performed by the owner. Even if a leak is detected when starting the system, it is easy to turn off individual heating to eliminate defects. IN multi-storey buildings everything is more complicated. If coolant begins to leak out at the junction of pipes and radiators 2-3 weeks after the start of the heating season, it will be difficult to turn off the heating system of the entire house. In addition, neighbors will suffer due to lack of heating or due to flooding.

Plumber specialists know how to properly install heating radiators in an apartment, so it is better to entrust this work to them.

Even if an accident occurs after the system is launched, they will be held responsible for what happened. They will have to fix it at their own expense, as well as pay for the damage caused to the residents. If the installation of heating radiators carried out by specialists turns out to be too high for the consumer, the work will have to be done independently. To do this, you need to read the instructions supplied with the new heating device and study the installation diagram.

Before installing heating radiators with your own hands, read the following standards SNiP 41-01-2003 “Heating, ventilation and air conditioning”:

After purchasing a heating radiator, installation is carried out depending on the type of system and connection diagram.

Types of heating systems

The level of heat supply directly depends on the type of heating system in an apartment or house. According to the pipe connection diagram, 3 types of systems can be distinguished: one-pipe, two-pipe systems and using a manifold.

Single pipe system

The single-pipe system is installed in such a way that the coolant flows through one pipe (sequentially) into each radiator, after which it cools down and returns to the boiler. This system is the easiest to install. Installed everywhere in multi-storey buildings. Its disadvantage is that each subsequent radiator receives cooler coolant and warms up the room worse. There is also no possibility of local repair of one battery. If necessary, you will have to turn off the entire riser.

Two-pipe system

involves the supply of hot coolant to each radiator separately (parallel connection), through one pipe. Thus, they all warm up to the same temperature. And the cooled liquid enters a separate return pipe and moves to the boiler for reheating. In this case, the rules for installing heating radiators are simplified. After all, for replacement it is possible to disconnect only one old radiator from the system.

Collector system

The collector system is very complex. It is intended for cottages. It involves a large consumption of pipes, since separate pipes are supplied to each battery. Only professionals can install such a system.

Connection diagrams

Before installing a heating radiator yourself, decide on the method of connecting it to the network. The most commonly used schemes are:

You can ask specialists how much it costs to install a heating radiator, and perhaps agree to their services. Experienced craftsmen They will tell you which connection scheme to choose and what auxiliary elements will be needed for installation.

Installation

Performed at any time of the year. You cannot install more than twelve battery sections in a system with natural circulation of liquid, and more than 24 with artificial circulation. Before installation, you need to purchase tow or sealing tape, sealant, shut-off and temperature control equipment, as well as fasteners made of appropriate material, for example, brackets of a certain length, bends different sizes. The thread size of the pipes must correspond to the size of the batteries and pipes.

Since additional parts are not cheap, and the cost of installing heating radiators is also not low, hiring specialists can be problematic. In addition, this work also includes the dismantling of heating radiators, the price for which, although not high, still affects total cost. And therefore, in any case, it is better to do the dismantling yourself, so as not to overpay.

To do this, first drain the coolant from one radiator, which is changed if it can be localized by closing the valves at the inlet; or from all single pipe system. When performing work in apartment building You should contact the housing department so that its employees drain the water from the riser where the replacement is being made. After this, you can remove the old radiator.

To install a heating radiator yourself, you first need to install shut-off and control equipment on it.

And also install a Mayevsky tap, with the help of which it will subsequently be possible to bleed air from the batteries. Brackets are installed on the wall, after carefully marking the installation location. It is believed that to install an average-sized radiator, you will need 2-3 brackets to hold its upper part, and 2 to fix the lower part.

The fasteners are leveled and the battery is installed on it. If the brackets are installed correctly, it should fit snugly against the supports and not wobble. A small detail: the heating device is installed with a small slope (0.3 cm for each meter of its length) so that the Mayevsky tap is located near the highest point. The actual installation of the heating radiator, the price of which is reduced thanks to self-installation, begins by unscrewing the plugs from the battery.

If, install a bypass with a valve. With a two-pipe system, only the outlet on which the valve is installed is connected. Then the pipes are connected to the pipes. For this we need torque wrenches. You will have to buy them, which will increase the cost of installing a heating radiator, but you can’t do without them. They will allow you not to overdo it when tightening nuts and other fasteners, since the instructions for each auxiliary element indicate the permissible torque.

A loose connection is also dangerous due to the possibility of leaks. The joints are sealed with tow moistened oil paint, or a special seal. They can also be boiled. After installation, the connections need to be crimped. It will be carried out by a called plumber, since buying a crimping tool is expensive. At the end of the work, you need to carry out a test run of the system, and, if necessary, immediately eliminate any defects.

Having familiarized yourself with how to properly install heating radiators, you should think about whether you need to do this work yourself. If you do not have the skills to install heating devices, it is better to hire professionals, having first found out the prices for installing heating radiators in locality where they will be mounted.

If aluminum or are installed, leave them in the packaging until installation is complete to avoid damaging the surface in case of an accidental impact. It is noteworthy that the installation of cast iron heating radiators also has its own characteristics. They are heavy and require installation. more brackets. In addition, these parts should be embedded deeper into the wall, especially if it is brick.

If the wall is made of plasterboard, the heavy battery is not hung on it, but is installed on special floor stands, and a pair of wall brackets are needed to prevent the structure from falling. In addition, if the mounted device is cast iron, then its connection to the pipes is made welding machine. That is, in this case, the installation of heating radiators by gas welding is almost always used, and this should not be neglected.

From all of the above it follows that the installation of heating batteries can be quite simple if you initially prepare well for it and study all the instructions supplied with the device. After completing all procedures in the established sequence, the heating system will be durable and will last for decades.

Rules for successfully installing batteries in the house. Having correctly chosen the power of heating radiators, we often do not get the desired heat in the house. What does their effective work depend on?

Location of heating radiators

The radiator must be installed so that it works with 100% efficiency. The optimal installation option is under the window. The greatest heat loss in the house occurs through the windows. The location of heating radiators under the window prevents heat loss and the appearance of condensation on the glass. For large windows, use radiators 30 cm high, or place them directly next to the window.

The radiator must be installed strictly at right angles, both horizontally and vertically - any deviation leads to air accumulation, which leads to corrosion of the radiator.

Pipes in the heating system

Advice for those who have central heating in their home. Typically, metal pipes are used for heating systems in apartment buildings.

If the apartment has a metal riser pipe, you cannot switch to polypropylene heating pipes!

In central heating, changes in coolant temperature and pressure often occur - apartment wiring and radiators will fail within a year.

Also, under no circumstances use unreinforced polypropylene pipes - they are designed for use for water supply and are destroyed at a coolant temperature of +90°C.

Fittings for heating radiators

Installation of thermostats on each radiator is possible in a two-pipe heating system. In a single-pipe system (in apartment buildings and high-rise buildings) for thermoregulation, a jumper is installed in front of the battery - a bypass. A bypass is a pipe installed perpendicularly between the supply and return. The bypass pipe must be smaller in diameter than the pipes used in the heating system wiring.

A Mayevsky valve is also installed on the battery - a valve for removing air from the system. These elements simplify radiator management and facilitate their repair.

Obstacles to room heating

Effective heat transfer is also affected by barriers that we ourselves create. This includes long curtains (70% of heat loss), protruding window sills (10%) and decorative grilles. Thick floor-length curtains prevent air circulation in the room - you simply heat the window and the flowers on the windowsill. The same effect, but with less consequences, is created by a window sill that completely covers the battery on top. A dense decorative screen (especially with a top panel) and placement of the battery in a niche reduce the efficiency of the radiator by 20%.