Even the highest quality heated towel rail will leak or stop working altogether if it is connected incorrectly. Unskilled intervention in the operation of common house systems is a big problem when installing or remodeling heated towel rails connected to hot water risers.

This article will talk about the principles of operation of heated towel rails, examples of competent connection and how best to avoid technical errors.

A bit of history: old types of heated towel rails

Twenty years ago, a heated towel rail "from the developer" was a monolithic riser pipe, curved in the form of the letters P or M. The heated towel rail served as a compensation loop and leveled linear thermal expansions on the riser.

U- and M-shaped heated towel rail as part of the riser

right)

Despite the unsightly appearance, this type had undeniable advantages: it was constantly hot, did not introduce any noticeable hydraulic resistance, and did not allow residents to disrupt the operation of the hot water riser.

However, time passed, and the tenants in the old housing stock, changed the old and ugly heated towel rail to a new and shiny one.

The installation was successful if the diameter of the heated towel rail corresponded to the diameter of the riser, and the connection was made without constrictions and stop valves (taps).

In case of an unsuccessful scenario, the result was the following:

not properly)

Attentive readers will notice that four extra constrictions from the applied fittings appeared in the riser.

But this is not the worst case either. Sometimes it happens:

In addition to the narrowing already mentioned above, shut-off valves have been added. When any of them is blocked in the riser, the circulation stops completely, the pressure in the apartments following in the direction of supply drops, the riser cools quickly if there is no water intake, and cold water has to be drained for a long time when the mixers are opened. Not the most pleasant picture, which also promises a showdown with neighbors!

It is important to remember: the installation of shut-off and control valves on risers is strictly prohibited!

Taps from the riser and bypass for heated towel rails

Over time, developers began to use more modern technologies and, instead of a compensation loop, they began to make two outlets from the riser to connect a heated towel rail at the choice of the residents themselves.

In this case, there is always a bypass between the taps - the closing section of the pipe with a diameter equal to the diameter of the riser or one step less.

The bypass at the heated towel rail solves several problems:

• 1. Maintaining normal circulation speed throughout the hot water riser. Forced circulation in the riser ensures the supply of evenly hot water (according to the norms - at least 60 ° C) to any apartment, on any floor, regardless of its distance from the start of supply to the riser, the time of day and the presence or absence of water intake in the apartments of residents.
• 2. Only a part of the total heat carrier (water) flow passes through one heated towel rail. The other part goes by, keeping more heat for the next bathrooms, because one or two dozen heated towel rails can work from one riser.
• 3. It is possible to completely turn off the heated towel rail or adjust its temperature by residents without negative consequences for other apartments. The ability to adjust the temperature requires the installation of an additional control valve on one of the outlets, since it is impossible to regulate anything using a ball valve.

But even here there is a problem: the height of the taps from the floor, the distance between them, the diameter and type of bypass are not standardized in any way. This leads to massive problems when connecting heated towel rails, which will be discussed below.

Three basic versions of bypass with taps:

1. Unbiased and unconstricted bypass. The outlets are welded directly to the riser pipe. Between the branches, the geometry of the riser (this is the diameter of the pipe and its direction) remains unchanged. You can often hear “oh, but I don’t have a bypass!” - but in fact, here the bypass is just part of the riser.

2. Unbiased narrowed bypass. Between the branches, the diameter of the riser is reduced by one pipe size (for example, for a 1” riser, a 3/4” bypass is performed), the riser itself still remains straight. Perhaps the most common option, which, alas, brings a lot of problems under certain conditions.

3. Offset narrow or open bypass. Between the taps, the section of the riser is shifted towards the heated towel rail, and the displaced section can be additionally narrowed by one diameter step. Also problematic in many cases.

And here are the approximate coefficients for the flow of water into the heated towel rail for different bypass configurations. Remember that they are valid only when choosing a uniquely working connection scheme from the options presented below.

• Offset bypass: 0.33-0.4.
• Offset and at the same time narrowed by one diameter step bypass: 0.48-0.52.
• Unbiased narrow bypass: 0.4.

That is, the bypass offset in terms of efficiency is almost equivalent to its narrowing.

Let's talk about physics: a gravity pump in a heated towel rail

If the performance of a heated towel rail with a narrowed or displaced bypass still somehow fits in the heads of plumbers who think in terms of “push through or not push through”, then the scheme without shifting the bypass and without narrowing the riser between the taps plunges them into a complete stupor: “All water passes by the towel! It won't go there! The device will never work!”

However, devices with this connection work fine. Why? It's simple: the so-called gravity pump is at the heart of the performance of the heated towel rail. The cooling coolant (water) tends under the influence of gravity downwards, since it has a higher density relative to the hotter coolant. As a result, chilled water is pushed out from the bottom point of the heated towel rail into the riser - and at the same time, a hotter coolant flows from the riser to the upper point of the device. It cools again and goes down - that's how the gravity pump turns out, the perpetual motion of which is cooled hot water.

How to connect a heated towel rail?

Consider several guaranteed working schemes for connecting this device.

Scheme No. 1

(Side or diagonal connection, unconstricted unbiased bypass)

This scheme provides the supply of coolant to the upper part and the release of the cooled coolant back to the riser from below. Circulation through the heated towel rail is provided only by the gravitational pressure of the water cooling in it.

The diagonal option for connecting a heated towel rail does not have any advantages over the side one.

This wiring diagram is universal:

• Does not depend on the circulation rate in the riser.
• It is not required to bleed air from the heated towel rail after turning off the water.
• Distance from the riser - up to 4-5 meters.

• The lower outlet of the riser must be below the bottom of the heated towel rail or on a par with it, and the upper outlet of the riser must be above the top of the appliance or on a par with it.
• With a bottom feed, there should definitely not be any narrowing between the taps. It will interfere with the operation of the heated towel rail up to complete inoperability! At the top feed, it is permissible to narrow the bypass by one step of the diameter of the riser (this option will be discussed in detail a little later), but it is not required for the operation of the device.

Connection according to this scheme with bottom feed in riser very critical to the quality of installation. Any narrowing between the taps, which, for example, occur when the polypropylene welding technology is violated, harms its work. These are nozzle overheating, exceeding the heating time of the pipe and fitting, pushing the pipe into the fitting with excessive force without depth control. Narrowing can occur if there are welds on the riser between the bends or if there are displacements of the riser pipe relative to its axis between the bends.

Why does the narrowing/displacement between the taps at the bottom feed interfere with the operation of the heated towel rail? Because it creates an additional pressure drop due to the movement of water in the riser (the lower outlet has more than the upper one), which counteracts natural circulation, which pushes water back into the riser through the lower outlet.

Important note: since natural circulation is provided by cooling the water in the appliance, with this connection there will always be a temperature difference between the top and bottom of the heated towel rail. However, in a well-mounted device, it is only 3-4 ° C, which cannot be felt by hand - above a certain threshold, the temperature is perceived as “equally hot”. If the difference is greater, then either an installation error was made, or the temperature of the hot water supply system was overestimated. Try to measure the temperature of the hot water in the system, as well as the temperature of the top and bottom of the heated towel rail.

Permissible options for the execution of scheme No. 1

Side connection ( example of correct execution)

The entire heated towel rail is vertically placed strictly between the outlets, the correct slopes of the supply pipes are observed, and no working conditions are violated.

Side connection ()

The heated towel rail is located above the top outlet. You will need to bleed air from the upper left corner of the instrument. An ordinary radiator will not allow this to be done without very inconvenient tricks (for example, loosening the union nut of the upper water outlet), air will stand above the dotted line, and the device will not work.

For the full operation of this option, it is mandatory to install an air valve strictly in the upper corner for water supply. Only a few models of heated towel rails allow you to do this, in particular, the Sunerzha brand of the “+” series (“Bohemia +”, “Galant +”, etc.).

The air valve in the opposite corner from the water connection point cannot bleed all the air out of the appliance!

Scheme No. 2

(bottom connection)

Slightly less effective than the side, but has its advantages.

The distance between the branches is any, in order to normally weld the pipes and screw on the taps so that their handles do not interfere with each other during rotation. For example, 15-20 centimeters.

Benefits of the scheme:

• Works with any direction of supply in the riser.
• It is possible to run pipes discreetly under the bathroom, without chasing the walls.

The disadvantages of the scheme:

• It is required to bleed air through Mayevsky's taps.
• Slightly less efficient than side connection.

Conditions for the scheme to work:

• The top outlet of a riser with an offset or narrowed bypass must be lower than or level with the bottom of the appliance. This guarantees the independence of the heated towel rail from the direction of supply. For top feed, the top outlet can be positioned above the lower edge of the instrument.
• The lower outlet must be lower than the heated towel rail in all variants of this scheme so that a dirt pit does not form from the supply pipe and the device itself.

Bottom connection ( example of conditional execution)

The bottom of the device is between the taps. With a bottom supply in the riser, a low height of the heated towel rail, or a large distance between the taps, this circuit may not work or be unstable.

Scheme No. 3

(Side and diagonal connections with reduced and/or offset bypass)

The vast majority of plumbers believe that there must be a narrowing between the taps on the heated towel rail - otherwise nothing will work. Firstly, this is not the case (see the diagrams above), and secondly, in the case of a lower water supply in the riser, the narrowing will prevent the heated towel rail from working.

with bypass reduction

Lateral connection of the ladder, working on a combination of forced and natural circulation, with bypass offset

with bypass offset

Lateral connection of the P / M-shaped heated towel rail, working on a combination of forced and natural circulation, with bypass reduction

with bypass reduction

Diagonal connection of the ladder, working on a combination of forced and natural circulation, with bypass offset

Diagonal options for connecting a heated towel rail do not have any advantages over lateral ones.

Note that the direction of supply in the riser is now unambiguously indicated by the top. With the bottom feed, these options are categorically not recommended!

Benefits of the scheme:

• Works great with top feed in the riser.
• It is not required to bleed air from the device after turning off the water.
• The distance of the towel warmer from the riser is up to 8-10 meters.

The disadvantages of the scheme:

• Stable operation is guaranteed for top feed only.

Conditions for the scheme to work:

• Strictly top feed in the riser! In general, you should consider the direction of supply always unknown (despite the statements of local plumbers) and use any of the universal schemes that do not depend on the supply.
• The lower outlet of the riser must be below or on a par with the bottom of the appliance, and the upper outlet of the riser must be above or on a par with the top of the heated towel rail.

Rules for installing a heated towel rail common to all schemes

The slope of the supply pipes must be observed (the direction is shown in the figures). For definiteness, you can take a difference of 3-30 mm per meter. With small distances from the riser (several meters) and a large diameter of the supply pipes (PPR 25-32 mm), strictly horizontal laying is permissible.

There should be no "humps" in horizontal sections! Air will accumulate in them and circulation will stop. Dips are allowed only within small limits, deep "pits" will interfere with circulation and become dirt collectors.

Pipe diameter for efficient circulation: at least DN20 (3/4” for galvanized steel pipe, 25 mm for good reinforced PPR, 20 mm for stainless steel pipe), ball valves – at least 3/4”.

The use of pipes and valves of a smaller cross section is only allowed on supply pipes of short length.

It is highly desirable to place the supply pipes in thermal insulation. This is a prerequisite for installation when embedding any plastic pipes: thermal insulation provides their mechanical protection and compensation for thermal expansion. It also improves the performance of the heated towel rail, which receives hotter water.

It is strictly forbidden to install any taps on the bypass - this is vandalism and sabotage to yourself and your neighbors. Closing or excessively narrowing the bypass slows down circulation throughout the riser. Wherein:

• The temperature of hot water drops, as it has time to cool down, reaching the consumer.
• The water pressure in all apartments located further in the direction of supply is drastically deteriorating. And with a certain location of the hot water outlet - and at the very owner of the heated towel rail. Indeed, when the bypass is narrowed by one pipe size, its throughput becomes approximately half as much.
• The effectiveness of the above schemes does not improve.

Typical errors for connecting a heated towel rail

Bottom connection ()

Side connection ( example of incorrect execution)

The heated towel rail is located below the lower outlet. The device connected with such a violation works until a certain height difference “lower outlet - bottom of the heated towel rail” is exceeded, then the circulation stops.

It is undesirable to lower the device below the taps for two reasons:

• The water that has cooled and descended is trapped by the lower part of the device and the pipe (the stagnant zone is from the bottom of the heated towel rail to the lower outlet) and is poorly pushed back into the riser, as lighter hot water presses on it.
• In the resulting "pits" from the pipes, dirt from the riser will accumulate. In the future, with low water quality, you can get a clogged pipe, as well as under-sludge corrosion, if the dirt collector falls on a section of a metal pipe or on the device itself.

Side connection ( example of incorrect execution)

Side connection ( example of incorrect execution)

The top tube forms a rise (above the dotted line in the illustrations) in which air stands. The circulation in the device stops. Theoretically, operation is possible if there is an automatic bleed valve for air at the highest point of the pipe (however, they regularly leak) or a Mayevsky tap.

Lateral connection with offset bypass ( example of incorrect execution)

Lateral connection with reduced bypass ( example of incorrect execution)

The performance of the side connection with an offset or narrowed bypass and bottom delivery depends on the circulation rate in the riser.

At a low or normal circulation rate, the device does not work, since the pressure in the lower outlet is greater due to displacement / narrowing of the bypass than in the upper one. The circulation pump tends to supply water through the lower outlet, and the "gravity pump" inside the device tends to lower the water cooled in the heated towel rail down. Mutually opposite flows decelerate each other, and the circulation stops.

If the riser has not yet been mutilated by neighbors, and there is a powerful circulation pump in the basement, then it happens that the pump wins, and circular circulation starts in the device. Hot water rises along the left collector, while cooling water descends along the right collector, gradually mixing with the hot water in the left collector through horizontal bridges. However, as soon as someone puts, for example, a barbaric tap on the bypass or connects a forbidden warm floor to the riser, the circulation rate may drop so much that the heated towel rail will stop working. Or it will work unstably - depending on the time of day and the water intake from the riser.

A diagonal connection in this situation is no better than a side connection.

Bottom connection with reduced bypass ( example of incorrect execution)

One of the most common mistakes is that it is so tempting to run pipes in the floor screed without tiring wall chasing...

A device connected with such a violation can only work with a very good circulation rate in the riser. But, as a rule, such a connection is inoperative, because the circulation pressure first needs to raise the water from the pit up into the device, and then raise the cooled and heavier water from the same pit up to the riser outlet.

Also, in the resulting pits, dirt from the riser will accumulate. In the future, with low water quality, pipes clogged with sludge can be obtained.

Frequently asked Questions

The plumber says that the cold towel warmer will start working as soon as more tenants move in or as soon as the pump is turned on at full capacity. Is it true?

No it is not true. A correctly connected device has a temperature equal to the temperature of the riser minus 1-5°C, and always works when the riser itself is hot.

An incorrectly connected heated towel rail either does not work right away, or works depending on the time of day, or stops heating after months or years with changes that are in no way dependent on the owner - for example, due to a drop in the temperature of the coolant or a decrease in the circulation rate.

It happens that an illiterately connected device warms up only with intensive water intake, when the pressure difference between the outlets increases. Hence the popular excuse: “Well, there are few tenants, when everyone moves in, then it will work!”. But in a working hot water supply system, recirculation always works - continuous round-the-clock movement and heating of water in the riser pipe. It does not depend on the presence of tenants and the time of day.

Is the stand hot? If so, the heated towel rail must also be hot!

Five turns are planned from the riser to the heated towel rail, will the device work?

The speed of water movement in the heated towel rail circuit is rather small, so turning the supply pipes does not have a noticeable effect on the operation of the device.

What material to choose for supply pipes?

In descending order of quality and durability:

• Stainless pipe for press (for example, Valtec VT.INOX-PRESS).
• XLPE pipe (TECE, REHAU, STOUT).
• Reinforced polypropylene pipe (Czech or German: Ekoplastik, T3S, FV-Plast, Baenninger, Aquatherm or Wefatherm).

My heated towel rail doesn't work and everything is already tiled. I want to put a pump on it - which one?

Pump - Grundfos UP 15-14 or Wilo Star-Z Nova. Overhead thermostat - PF TC 640.

Which water outlets should be used to connect the heated towel rail: 1/2 or 3/4?

For circuits operating only on natural circulation - that is, without narrowing and / or displacement of the bypass - it is advisable to use ¾ water sockets and eliminate eccentrics, replacing them with elongated nipples or ¾ kegs. This will require special installation care so that the center-to-center distance of the water outlets strictly coincides with the conclusions of the heated towel rail. For Sunerzh devices, eccentrics have a very decent internal section.

"Americans" for connecting pipes to a riser or to a heated towel rail: which ones to choose?

On the side of the riser branches, ball valves can be used immediately with a built-in half-grip ("American"). They should be connected to pipes with combined couplings with internal thread (for PPR). If a conventional ball valve is already installed, then you need to use the transition from a completely brass cone "American" and a threaded PPR coupling.

When connected to a hot water supply system, such “Americans” constantly flow, because due to the increased coefficient of thermal expansion of the plastic part, the flat gasket between it and the counterpart is cyclically compressed with temperature fluctuations and becomes thinner, after which it starts to flow. Especially often this happens after the hot water is turned off, that is, after the temperature of the entire riser decreases and after the completion of thermal deformations. Tightening the union nut either does not help at all, or helps for a short time.

Why does my heated towel rail work, the connection diagram of which is indicated in this article as non-working?

Deviation from the schemes recommended above does not necessarily immediately stop the operation of the heated towel rail. For example, if a lateral connection is made with a narrowed bypass and bottom supply in the riser, then the device may be hot if the circulation rate in the riser is known to be high or the bypass is critically narrowed.

My heated towel rail doesn't work and everything is already tiled. I want to put an electric heated towel rail in its place - which one?

The heated towel rail, as a rule, should work around the clock, providing not only rare drying of clothes, but also a comfortable temperature in the bathroom.

Electric heated towel rails with a power of up to 250 W, most likely, will not be able to provide full-fledged heating of the bathroom, but they will quite cope with drying clothes. But more powerful models (from 300 W) effectively cope with both tasks at the same time.

Text editing: Sunerzha LLC

A heated towel rail is a useful device, and in many cases a necessary one. It does not take up much space, does not require complex maintenance, and at the same time dries wet towels perfectly without much additional cost.

In some houses of the old building, the installation of a heated towel rail was provided for by the project, but such devices, for the most part, have long been outdated both morally and technically. Modern models are much more convenient and reliable.

There are two main types of heated towel rails: electric and water. Both the first and the second are made in the most varied design, different sizes, colors, configurations: from a simple curved tube to exquisite models that look more like an interior decoration, but they do their job quite well.

A beautiful heated towel rail can become a stylish decoration of the bathroom interior. It is believed that chrome models last longer and are somewhat more efficient.

The device of heated towel rails of different types, of course, is fundamentally different.

In the first case, the device is heated by electricity, in the second, hot water circulates through the pipes. The installation procedure for electric and water models also has significant differences.

What should be considered before mounting a water model?

The heat carrier in water models of heated towel rails is hot water. Most often, the device is connected to a hot water supply system, but this is not always possible. When deciding how to properly install a heated towel rail in the bathroom, such points should be clarified in advance.

For example, in houses where there is no central heating, gas water heaters are used. In such premises, water heated towel rails are connected to the central heating system. This is not very convenient, since the device only works for heating during the heating period, the rest of the time it is a regular towel rack.

If an electric boiler is used to heat water in the house, it makes sense to purchase a special double-circuit model.

In such boilers, one circuit is used to heat tap water, and the second is designed specifically for a heated towel rail.

But the owners of private houses with a completely autonomous heating and hot water supply system are much more free to choose.

If it is decided to make a heated towel rail part of the heating system of an apartment building, it should be installed in the summer, while the heating season has not yet begun. Usually, utility companies are extremely reluctant to agree to turn off the heating of the entire house in the winter cold for the sake of installing this unnecessary device for life. And the neighbors will hardly be pleased with the lack of heating for several hours.

Before installing a heated towel rail, you need to find out if there is water in the heating system. Usually it is drained for the summer, but this is not always done. You will have to ask local utilities to check this and turn off the water if necessary.

When installing a heated towel rail as part of the house plumbing, you will also need to turn off the hot water entering the house. Older models of heated towel rails are usually not equipped with taps and a bypass that allows water to bypass the device, so you can’t just remove it, you will have to ask local plumbers for help.

In some cases, you can turn off the water in the water supply or heating system on your own, but for this you need to know exactly how to do it, as well as inform local utilities about your “amateur activity” and obtain their consent.

When figuring out how to install a suitable heated towel rail in the bathroom, even before purchasing it, you need to decide on how to connect it. It can be:

• bottom;
• side;
• diagonal (for models of the “ladder” type);
• centered on the bottom.

In the first case, the connection point of the device to the water supply is at the bottom, and in the second - on the side. Today, water pipes are hidden in the wall or masked with a partition, leaving only places outside for connecting the necessary plumbing. This is how side-connected models are installed, although the process is quite laborious. Still, it makes sense to try: the bathroom looks much more attractive this way.

A heated towel rail with side connection is installed on the wall so that the DHW pipes are hidden. It is important to carefully seal all connections.

The lower connection is typical for old houses in which the project provides for the installation of a heated towel rail. The power of models with bottom connection is approximately 10% lower than that of analogues with side connection.

To increase the efficiency of the equipment, it makes sense to consider modifying the water supply and put a model with a side connection.

The power of a heated towel rail with a bottom connection is usually about 10% lower than that of a similar device with a side connection, however, these models are usually installed in older houses

Sometimes the diameter of the nozzles of the heated towel rail and the cadaver duct does not match. To connect them, special adapters are used. The diameter of such an adapter must necessarily be equal to or greater than the diameter of the water pipes. Otherwise, excessive pressure may occur in the system, which is fraught with an accident, leaks and other unpleasant problems.

An important parameter is the axial dimensions of the heated towel rail, i.e. the distance separating its entrance and exit. Be sure to take into account the diameter of the water pipe in order to select the model of the heated towel rail of the appropriate size. The presence of adapters complicates the installation process and worsens the appearance of the device.

In addition, the risk of leaks also increases. If you can’t do without adapters, you should pay special attention to sealing each connection. When selecting taps and fittings, you should consider the material from which the water pipes are made.

The combination of different metals can cause their electrochemical corrosion. Plastic pipes are much easier to work with in this regard.

It is believed that chrome models of heated towel rails are more durable than other options. In addition, such devices are characterized by higher heat dissipation.

How to install a water heated towel rail

Installation of a water model of a heated towel rail is carried out in several main stages:

• Removing the old device.
• Bypass installation.
• Installing the top and bottom faucet.
• Towel dryer installation.
• Check connections for tightness.

Step #1: Removing the old device

So, by the beginning of work, the water in the system should already be reliably blocked. You can remove the old heated towel rail, if it is welded to the pipes, using an ordinary grinder, simply by cutting it off. It should be remembered that parts of the pipes will have to be threaded, so you need to cut them off taking into account these dimensions.

A grinder will also be needed to remove a device with a threaded connection, if it “sticks” to the pipes over time. In other cases, the old heated towel rail is simply unscrewed from the pipes and removed from the brackets on which it hung.

Step #2: Installing the Bypass

A bypass is a special jumper connecting the inlet and outlet of the pipe to which the heated towel rail is connected. It is installed in front of the taps so that the flow of hot water through the pipes is not interrupted when the taps that separate the device from the hot water supply system are closed.

If there is no bypass in the system, for repairs or other manipulations with the device, you will have to turn off the water.

The bypass can be welded to the pipes of the main line or screwed using triple threaded adapters. The diameter of the bypass pipe must be smaller than the dimensions of the main line

To install a jumper, you will need a piece of pipe of a suitable size and diameter. Usually, a pipe of smaller diameter is used than the dimensions of the pipes of the main line.

The bypass is welded to the pipes of the main line or screwed using a threaded connection.

As a reliable sealant for threaded connections, ordinary linen winding is most often used. If the amount of winding is sufficient, screwing occurs with little effort.

Step #3: Installing the top and bottom faucet

Before installation, two stopcocks should be purchased, the thread diameter of which matches the diameter of the pipes on which it will be installed.

You can choose ordinary taps that translate only into two positions: “open” and “closed” or use screw structures to regulate the flow of coolant entering the device, i.e. degree of heating.

To be able to shut off the water supply to the heated towel rail at any time, you can use conventional shut-off valves that switch to the “open” or “closed” position

Such a valve is designed to remove air from the device that has entered the system. It is mounted at the top of the heated towel rail. If an air lock has formed in the device that prevents the circulation of hot water, it is enough to open such a tap and bleed excess air

Automatic models of the Mayevsky crane cope with this task even without human intervention. It is very easy to determine that air has entered the device; in this case, the heated towel rail does not heat up enough or completely cools down.

If the pipes are not threaded, they should be cut using a die with the appropriate specifications. If the thread is there but looks old and worn, it also does not hurt to update it with a special tool to improve the quality of the connection.

Step #4: Installing the heated towel rail

Before installing a heated towel rail, you should consider its placement on the wall. To do this, use special brackets, telescopic holders or clamps. Usually, models of good manufacturers are equipped with the necessary materials and fasteners.

The brackets should be mounted on the wall. Usually, for this, attachment points are marked on the wall, holes are made with a drill, then the brackets are screwed. Read the manufacturer's instructions before starting work.

In some cases, first install a heated towel rail, and only then fix it on the wall.

Straight or angle fittings for a wall-mounted towel warmer should be selected taking into account the size of the device and the aesthetics of their appearance

When installing a heated towel rail, special regulations must be remembered. With a pipe diameter of less than 23 mm, a distance of more than 35 mm should be left between the pipe and the wall, and if the pipes of the device are thicker - more than 40 mm - the distance to the wall must be increased to 50 mm.

Fittings are required to connect the heated towel rail to the hot water supply system. Angled or straight fittings are used, it depends on the design of the device and the type of its connection. Of course, all connections must be properly sealed to prevent leakage.

Ordinary threads are traditionally sealed with linen winding. If enough material is used for this, it will protrude slightly from the thread after screwing.

If screwing is significantly difficult, there may be too much winding, but if the connection is easily screwed in, most likely, you need to add a little more linen sealant. For threaded connections of a conical shape, FUM tape is used.

When installing the heated towel rail, do not use excessive force to screw in all connections, so as not to accidentally damage the threads. In more detail, the installation process of a water heated towel rail is presented in the following video:

Step #5: Check connections for leaks

After all work is completed, you should again supply water to the system and check the operation of the device. It is desirable to ensure the maximum load on the device in order to detect even small leaks. In a situation where a heated towel rail is built into the heating system at home, it is difficult to carry out such a check, because installation is usually carried out in the summer.

Leaks can appear only before the start of the heating season, when utility workers check the readiness of the system for winter, exposing it to increased loads. To prevent leakage at a time when the tenants of the apartment are absent, the taps of the heated towel rail should always be kept closed.

Although the description of the procedure for connecting a heated towel rail looks simple, in practice, the implementation of all operations requires a professional approach. If the owners of the house do not have the appropriate skills, it makes sense to consult with an experienced plumber or entrust him with the entire range of work.

Installing an electric towel warmer

The main advantage of an electric heated towel rail is the ease of installation. Like any wall-mounted electrical appliance, it must be hung on the wall and connected to the power supply. It remains to turn on the device itself and use it for its intended purpose. An important requirement is compliance with electrical safety rules.

Such a device should be connected only through the so-called “automatic device” or RCD - a residual current device. If the outlet for connecting the device will be installed directly in the bathroom, be sure to use a special device with protection against moisture.

Such a socket is mounted in the thickness of the wall, it has a special cover. In addition, the appliance must be grounded.

When installing an electric heated towel rail, special sockets with increased moisture protection should be used. Connect such a device through an RCD

It is believed that the option with an electric heated towel rail is not economically viable compared to water models, as it increases heat bills. However, the power of such devices is not so great, as is the consumption of electricity.

This is enough to dry a damp terry cloth, but it does not do very well as a bathroom heater.

To increase comfort and make hygiene procedures even more enjoyable, installing a heated towel rail in the bathroom with your own hands will help. You can perform all operations on your own if you follow the safety rules and follow the advice of specialists. And it is equally important to choose the right product.

To classify heated towel rails, first of all, should be in terms of the type of energy used.

• To the heating system or hot water supply lines are connected water models.
• Do not depend on the mode of hot water supply and function at any time electrical products.
• Combined modifications have the advantages of both water and electric, being, thus, universal. They will continue to work even during periods of hot water shutdown.

Structurally, there are two most common types of products:

• familiar to all coil,
• models resembling a staircase with horizontal steps.

Choosing a connection method for heated towel rails

Installation of a water heated towel rail or its equivalent with a combined principle of operation can be carried out by connecting to a hot water supply or heating system. Experts recommend giving preference to the first method.

• Hot water supply is supplied year-round, except for periods of repair and pressure testing. It is possible to use the coolant of the heating system only in the cold season.
• Do-it-yourself installation of a heated towel rail with a tie-in into the heating system must be carried out without fail with the installation of a bypass. Otherwise, repair or replacement of the product in winter becomes impossible - turning off the heating riser at sub-zero temperatures can lead to freezing of the system.

Important: Installing a bypass is recommended in any case. The ability to disconnect the device from the system (DHW or heating) without disturbing the circulation allows, if necessary, to perform any work without coordination with the utilities.

Equipment and materials

When thinking about how to install a heated towel rail, you should take into account that the work will require a temporary shutdown of hot water supply. To do this, you will need to contact the utility service with an application and pay the cost of the service. The price directly depends on the duration of the shutdown period. Therefore, it is important not only to agree on the shutdown time, but also to prepare everything necessary for the installation in advance in order to avoid unnecessary delays.

The dismantling of the old design can be done using ring wrenches of the appropriate diameter, however, in the absence of threaded connections or in the case when they have become “sticky” during many years of operation, it may be necessary to cut the old heated towel rail out of the system (using a grinder, hacksaw, etc.).

Experts recommend when replacing a heated towel rail replace all old supply pipes with polypropylene ones. They are durable and not subject to corrosion, while they cost much less than copper, which have similar performance.

Thus, in addition to the product itself and the brackets for mounting it (they are usually included in the kit, but this must be checked upon purchase), you will need:

• soldering iron for their installation,
• special scissors or a knife for cutting,
• ball valves to turn off the water supply to the heated towel rail (2 or 3 pieces),
• fitting,
• sanitary sealing paste, sanitary flax.

Read also: We choose in the water main.

Connectivity technology

After turning off the water supply, the installation of a heated towel rail is carried out in stages.

Important: Installation of a heated towel rail and connection to communications is carried out with sealing of joints.

The installation of a heated towel rail in the bathroom can be considered of high quality if all connections remain dry when connecting the water supply.

If a combined model is chosen, then installing a heated towel rail in the bathroom with your own hands also includes connecting to the mains. The work is carried out according to the same rules as the installation of electrical models.

I would like to note why it may be interesting to independently replace the heated towel rail in the bathroom - the price for work from various companies will be approximately 500 rubles for dismantling and from 1200/4800 rubles for installing a heated towel rail without a bypass and with it, respectively.

Connecting power-consuming models

Energy-consuming (electric and combined heated towel rails) require electrical wiring in a room with high humidity, so it is worth taking on such work only if you have the appropriate experience and with an understanding of the degree of responsibility. When in doubt, it is better to consult a specialist.

Selection Criteria for Electric Towel Warmers

In the bathroom, do-it-yourself towel warmer replacement is carried out in order to increase comfort, which means that when choosing a model, its technical characteristics and requirements should be taken into account.

You can buy a cheaper, but less powerful unit if it is supposed to be used only for its intended purpose. If you expect that the heated towel rail will also heat the air in the bathroom, choose a more powerful model.

Different types of products have their own nuances of operation:

• Oil-filled products warm up for a long time, but when turned off, they retain the temperature for a long time.
• Cable heated towel rails have much shorter warm-up and cool-down periods.

The installation of various products also has its own characteristics, which should be considered when buying so that there are no problems during the installation stage:

• Oil products must be fixed in a certain position and must be grounded.
• Cable models are not demanding on the choice of position, and for their safety, if it is impossible to ground, you can ground the equipment.

To increase safety, it is preferable to choose a hidden type of wiring.

General rules for the installation of volatile heated towel rails

Do-it-yourself connection of a heated towel rail of this type provides for a separate (as for a powerful consumer) outlet and an automatic machine (for protective shutdown of equipment).

If the outlet of the heated towel rail will be placed in the bathroom, be sure to choose a waterproof model (they always have a protective cover, and during installation they are “recessed” into the surface).

If you are thinking about how to do it, then our instruction article will be useful to you.

You can talk about shower cabin repairs. The most common problems and how to solve them are described.

And this material will help you make a choice between an acrylic and a cast-iron bath. We compare the pros and cons of each option.

Installing a heated towel rail: video

Self-installation of the coil in the bathroom is shown in the video.

A photo

Here are the photo wall heated towel rails in the bathroom and their installation.

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How to install a heated towel rail in the bathroom yourself - 6 steps to replace an old towel dryer

A major overhaul in the bathroom means not only laying floor tiles and cosmetic finishing of walls and ceilings, but also a complete or partial replacement of all plumbing fixtures. Agree, it is unlikely that any of the tenants will want to use outdated and outdated plumbing in a renovated and updated bathroom.

Along with the installation of a new washbasin, bathtub or shower, replacing the heated towel rail in the bathroom is no less important and responsible task, since the old towel dryer loses its former beauty over time and gradually becomes unusable.

What is a heated towel rail for?

Despite the obvious and understandable name of this plumbing fixture, it should be borne in mind that its functional purpose is not limited to drying wet towels after taking a shower, or drying small wearable items after hand washing.

1. First of all, I want to draw attention to the fact that the bathroom usually does not have its own, and the heated towel rail is often the only heating device;
2. In addition to heating the room itself, it improves the natural circulation of air, and helps to ventilate the room faster.
3. This allows you to get rid of water vapor and condensate in a short time, which will certainly form on the walls after taking a hot bath;
4. Taken together, all these factors make it possible to maintain an optimal microclimate in the room, and not to freeze during the adoption of water procedures, and after their completion, to normalize the increased humidity of the air, which can lead to the appearance of an unpleasant odor and the development of mold fungus;

For those who do not know at what height to hang a heated towel rail in the bathroom, I recommend doing it in such a way that any adult family member can freely reach the topmost crossbar or shelf with his hand, while the optimal distance from the bottom edge to the floor should be within 1100-1200 mm.

Stage 1. Buying a heated towel rail

In fact, all household heated towel rails are universal, and can be used for installation in almost any bathroom or combined bathroom, however, according to the connection method and the type of coolant used, they can be divided into three types:

1. Water models of heated towel rails are connected to a common vertical heating or hot water riser, therefore, the coolant in this case is circulating hot water:

• The advantage of such systems is their high reliability and durability, good heat transfer and high energy efficiency, as well as relatively low operating costs;
• The main disadvantages of such models, I can attribute the rather high complexity of installation and connection, as well as the fact that during a seasonal or unscheduled shutdown of hot water supply and central heating, the heated towel rail pipes will also remain cold;

1. Electric models are connected to the household power supply, and their heating is carried out exclusively by built-in tubular electric heaters (heaters). Such devices cannot be called plumbing fixtures, since they do not require connection to a hot water supply or central heating system, and have nothing to do with domestic plumbing;

• The main advantage of such a heating device is that it can operate practically without restrictions at any time of the year, regardless of the presence of water pressure in the pipes of central heating or hot water supply;
• Also, the advantages of electric models include simple and quick do-it-yourself installation, since no plumbing work is required to install and connect it;
• The main disadvantage of an electric heater is that during operation it constantly consumes expensive electricity, so the total average annual cost of operating such devices will be much more expensive than water ones;

1. Combined heated towel rails are not often found on sale, however, in my opinion, this option can be considered the most successful, since it combines all the positive qualities of the two previous models. The fact is that such devices can be connected at the same time, and to the hot water supply or central heating system, and to the household electrical network;

• During the heating season, heating is carried out from circulating hot water, so most of the time the device operates in normal mode and does not require any additional costs;
• After the end of the heating season, or in the event of an unscheduled shutdown of hot water, electricity is connected to it, and further heating occurs from tubular electric heaters;
• The only drawback of combined models, at first glance, may seem to be their rather high price, but this disadvantage is offset by ease of use and economical mode of operation.

Flowing water heated towel rails can be connected not only to a centralized heating system, but also to the water circuit of an autonomous heating system for residential buildings, along with conventional heating radiators or a floor heating system.

Stage 2. Selecting a connection method

Having decided on the purchase of a suitable option, and having opted for a water or combined model, you need to understand how to properly install a heated towel rail in the bathroom, since you can use one of the two methods below to connect it to home communications.

1. Connecting to a central heating riser, in my opinion, is an undesirable option, because in this case, for several months of the year, the pipes of the heated towel rail will remain cold. Such a connection can be found in old houses of the Soviet period of construction, but at present such a scheme is practically not used anywhere;

1. Connection to a centralized or autonomous hot water supply system is considered the preferred option. With such a connection scheme, the heating of the pipes of the heated towel rail occurs uninterruptedly throughout the year, since the coolant circulates in them constantly, as hot water is consumed by household consumers.

In the event that the bathroom is being renovated in an old housing stock, where the coil is connected to the heating riser, I recommend that you immediately abandon such a scheme. To do this, before replacing the old heated towel rail with a new one with your own hands, connect the supply and return pipes to the hot water system of a residential building.

Stage 3. Dismantling the old coil

Despite the fact that primary housing in new buildings is most often sold without plumbing fixtures, almost all bathrooms in residential apartments of the secondary real estate market are initially already equipped with all household plumbing. For this reason, before changing the towel dryer with your own hands, in most cases you must first dismantle the old coil pipe:

1. First of all, it is necessary to completely shut off the water supply to the common vertical riser. to which the old heated towel rail is connected, and wait a while until the pressure in the system decreases;

1. If the existing pipe is installed relatively recently, and is attached to the main riser with union nuts, you just need to unscrew the threaded connection, and, if necessary, cut off the old mounting brackets with a grinder, and then remove the old coil from the wall;
2. In houses of an earlier period of construction, the supply pipes are in most cases welded to a common riser using gas welding. In this case, they must be carefully cut with a grinder, then also cut off the mounting brackets, and remove the old heated towel rail;

1. If the old pipe is connected to the DHW riser, it must be cut in such a way that small bends 80-100 mm long remain near the riser, on which threads can be cut, or new threaded pipes can be welded to them;
2. If the old coil was connected to the heating system, the pipe can be cut off at the very base, and the holes formed in the riser can be hermetically sealed with plugs.

To replace a heated towel rail connected to a centralized heating system, I advise you to plan work for the spring and summer period. This is explained by the fact that in the absence of an emergency, the housing maintenance management company is unlikely to agree to turn off the entire heating riser during the cold season.

Stage 4. Connecting water pipes

If you have the opportunity to use gas acetylene welding, then the supply and removal of hot water to the heated towel rail is best done using metal water pipes. If this is not possible, then polypropylene water pipes with appropriate shutoff valves can be used to connect the coil to a common riser.

1. On the outer part of the remaining metal bends, it is necessary to cut an external thread with a length of at least 40 mm, and then screw shut-off ball valves onto them;

1. If for some reason it is difficult to do this, ready-made threaded pipes can be welded to them, after which ball valves can also be installed on them;
2. Often there are situations when the heated towel rail coil is connected in series, into a break in the pipeline of the DHW riser. In this case, between the inlet and outlet pipes, in front of the stopcocks, you need to install a jumper (bypass) from the same water pipe with another stopcock in the middle. It is necessary for the free passage of hot water bypassing the coil, in case of failure or dismantling of the heated towel rail;

1. Before you hang the coil in its place, you need to attach it to the wall, and mark the location of the inlet and outlet pipes, and then mark up for laying water pipes;
2. In order to perform a hidden laying of supply pipes, you need to drill shallow channels in the wall with a puncher and a grinder, and after laying the pipes, putty them with a gypsum putty mixture.

After connecting, laying and connecting the supply pipes, it is necessary to install hermetic plugs on the outlet holes, and test the system under the working water pressure. I strongly recommend that this be done prior to the final finish, as if there are any defects or leaks, it will be very difficult to fix them behind the installed wall tiles.

Stage 5. Installing a new heated towel rail

Different types of heated towel rails may have different wall mounting options, and different sizes of threaded pipes, but in general, the general principle of installation and connection for all models is approximately the same.

Wall mounting is most often presented in the form of clamps or telescopic brackets that allow you to adjust the relative distance from the wall, as well as the position of the coil relative to the vertical and horizontal. For connection to water threaded pipes, union nuts with a rubber gasket are used, which are popularly called "American".

To adjust the horizontal and vertical position, eccentric threaded adapters are installed. At the same time, I must remind you that the final installation and connection of the heated towel rail can only be carried out after the complete completion of the interior decoration of the bathroom walls:

1. After the appropriate threaded adapters are installed at the outlet of the supply pipes, the heated towel rail must be put in its place, and after making sure that the supply pipes are coaxially positioned, first fix it to the wall using mounting brackets from the standard delivery set;

1. The union nuts located on the nozzles of the coil must be screwed onto the threaded outlets that protrude from the wall, and if everything went well the first time, tighten them to the right moment using an adjustable wrench;
2. If, for some reason, a distortion occurs, then before installing the coil, a threaded eccentric adapter must be installed between each union nut and the supply pipe. It will allow, within acceptable limits, to correct the position of the heated towel rail relative to the horizon;
3. After connecting and aligning the coil, it is necessary to tighten the threaded pipes, and finally fix the adjusting screws of the mounting brackets in the desired position;

1. This must be done in such a way that the distance between the wall tiles and the rear surface of the heated towel rail is at least 35 mm for a coil with a diameter of less than 23 mm, and 45 mm for a coil with a diameter of more than 23 mm;
2. Before you connect the hot water supply to the common riser, you need to slightly open the air bleed valve (Mayevsky tap), located in the upper part of the device, in order to release the air accumulated in the pipes;
3. After de-airing and flushing the system by draining some hot water from the nearest tap, the water heated towel rail will be completely ready for operation.

All connecting and shut-off valves, during the operation of the heated towel rail, are under the operating pressure of hot water, therefore soldering and crimping of polypropylene pipes must be carried out in full compliance with the technology, and when assembling all threaded connections, use fluoroplastic sealing tape (FUM).

Stage 6. Installation and connection of models with an electric heater

As for the installation and connection of electric models, in this case, installing a heated towel rail in the bathroom with your own hands is considered much simpler, since it does not require plumbing pipes, and does not limit the choice of the location of the device in any way.

The only difficulty lies in the installation of hidden electrical wiring, but if the bathroom has not yet been finished, then this should not be a problem at all.

1. First of all, you need to decide on the exact location of the heated towel rail., and bring to one of the attachment points, near which the terminal block is located, a three-core electric cable of a suitable section;

1. The cable for hidden electrical wiring should be laid in a plastic corrugation laid in a pre-cut strobe, by analogy with the hidden laying of water pipes;
2. Safety regulations and the rules for installing household electrical equipment in the bathroom require the mandatory use of protective grounding, therefore, the connection of such devices must be carried out with a three-wire cable through a separate differentiated circuit breaker or residual current device (RCD);

1. Upon completion of the fine finishing of the walls, it is necessary to connect the power cable to the terminal block. At the same time, I want to remind you that the conductor in brown insulation is connected to the phase terminal, the conductor in blue insulation is connected to the operating zero terminal, and the wire with yellow-green insulation is connected to the protective earth screw;
2. After connecting the wires, you need to perform a control connection of the device to the electrical network, and after making sure that it works properly, mount it on the wall using the mounting brackets that come with the delivery.

Some potential buyers are wondering if the heating of an electric towel warmer can be removed or reduced to reduce electricity consumption. I can say that many models are equipped with a built-in thermostat and voltage regulator, which allows you to either turn it off completely, or perform step temperature control.

Conclusion

After reading this article, it is easy to see that detailed instructions for installing and connecting water and electric models of heated towel rails were presented here. As for the combined models, their installation and connection should be carried out in exactly the same way, taking into account all the tips and recommendations described. The main difference is only that they will need to be connected to both water pipes and a power cable.

If, after reading this material, readers have any additional questions, I will be happy to answer them at the bottom of this article, in the comment form, at any time.

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

The question of how to properly install a heated towel rail in the bathroom is important from the standpoint of efficiency. Although this simple device is available in every home, in some cases it needs improvement. For example, if, when planning a bathroom, this pipe bend was placed in a conspicuous place and it spoils the interior of the room. Periodically, a blockage occurs in the device itself, and the drying process is not as efficient as before.

Therefore, it is worth considering how the heated towel rail works, what varieties of it can be chosen for the bathroom and what to consider during the installation process.

Types of heated towel rails

Often homes have a place to dry towels or certain types of clothing, where constant heating ensures that moisture is quickly removed from everything that is on it. It is convenient in large families with small children, where clean things are required very often. And in the cold season, it serves as an additional source of heat. Therefore, its efficient operation is very important.

According to the type of energy used, there are several types of heated towel rails. Less common in homes is an electrical appliance for this function. It is efficient to use and runs on a regular electrical outlet. Installing an electric heated towel rail with your own hands differs little from installing a lamp or other electrical appliance. But if you put such a device in the bathroom, you need to take into account all fire safety measures. For example, make it so that water does not get on it.

Most often, heated towel rails are used in homes connected to a heating pipe. Their principle of operation is simple: hot water rises through the heating pipes and radiators in a multi-storey building, providing heat to everyone equally. And in the opposite direction, this water descends through a pipe with many bends that form heated towel rails in each apartment in the riser. This ensures rational use of heat.

Since the heating system is designed for more than one family, any change in it will affect other users. Therefore, the correct reinstallation of the heated towel rail should be not only effective in a particular apartment, but also safe for the rest.

There are towel warmers of the so-called combined type, combining water and electric heating. If necessary, you can connect any of them. This option is convenient, since the heated towel rail will work effectively even when the heating is turned off.

Installation principles

When deciding how to install a heated towel rail in the bathroom with your own hands, it is worth considering a few important points:

There are two main ways to install a heated towel rail powered by a hot water pipe. The structure can be connected in a straight or corner connection. Each of these methods has its own characteristics and conditions that contribute to their effective operation.

Direct connection installation

This method is used when there is a severe blockage of the heated towel rail pipe and a pipe fragment needs to be replaced without moving the device to another location. This procedure does not require a lot of time or special professional skills.


Before starting the dismantling of the old pipe, you need to take care of turning off and draining the hot water from the system. Otherwise, there is a high chance of getting burned. After that, an unnecessary piece is cut off and a new one is fixed in its place. Depending on the conditions, it is either simply welded or fixed with threaded pipes.

If the connection is direct in the installation of the device, it is worth considering 2 main points:

In this case, it is allowed to install taps that will allow you to disconnect the device from the network if not needed or dismantle it completely. If desired, a thermostatic regulator can be installed in the system, which will maintain a certain temperature in the device.

To make the new system look good in the interior of the bathroom, you can use a decorative box to hide the riser pipe.

Installation with corner connection

This method is used by those who want to not only update the pipe of this device, but also change its location. According to the principle of installation, the angular connection is not much different from the direct one. But the installation of a heated towel rail in the bathroom should be carried out taking into account several important points:

An alternative is the diagonal connection of a heated towel rail. But it does not bring much efficiency. Heat transfer with this method of installation can increase by 5-7%.

Offset bypass heated towel rail circuits are used as an alternative to riser replacement. However, it is worth remembering that this approach is applicable when the water flow is directed downward. If the pipe arrangement involves an upward movement of flow, such a do-it-yourself installation of a heated towel rail in the bathroom will be ineffective. Also, with this choice, you should not use narrowed pipes.

Advantages and features of the bottom connection

Such unit installation schemes have been popular in recent years. Because by fixing the heated towel rail from below, you can hide the extra pipes with various accessories or interior items. In stores you can find a large assortment of models that will be installed in this way. But with external attractiveness, the bottom connection scheme is less effective than a direct or side connection. And for it to work, it is worth considering a number of points:

In view of the existing conditions, it is worth paying attention to the popular heated towel rail connection schemes. Some of them may be known to be non-working due to non-compliance with the rules. Therefore, if the master offers you options with bends in the supply, narrowed or displaced bypass, be careful. So you will avoid disappointment when, with a working hot water system, the heated towel rail remains cold.

To summarize: install or can, not the name of the special skills. The easiest option to connect may be a device powered by electrical energy.


If you choose a device powered by a heating system or hot water supply, consider some details. First, find out how often heating or hot water is turned off in your area. The time when the heated towel rail will be useless will depend on this. This does not apply to persons living in houses where water is heated by a column or boiler.

When choosing the type of connection, set the direction of water flow. The options used will depend on this. Be sure to use models with a bypass if you want to block the device with taps when not needed.

Since there are several main options for connecting a heated towel rail to a riser: straight, side, diagonal or bottom, the choice should be made based on the initial position of the device and its height. The easiest to implement is a direct connection.

Several conditions should be considered when choosing a side or bottom method, especially if an offset bypass or constricted pipes are used. When choosing one of the last methods, analyze and discard options that will obviously not work. And then your heated towel rail will be a beautiful and functional piece of furniture.

Video instruction