Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators: instructions for an apartment. Do-it-yourself battery installation: rules and technology How to install a heating battery

The device or reconstruction of the heating system involves the installation or replacement of heating devices. The good news is that if you wish, you can do it yourself without involving specialists. How the installation of heating radiators should take place, where and how to locate them, what is needed for the work - all this is in the article.

What is needed for installation

Installation of heating radiators of any type requires devices and consumables. The set of necessary materials is almost the same, but for cast-iron batteries, for example, the plugs are large, and the Mayevsky tap is not installed, but, somewhere at the highest point of the system, an automatic air vent is installed. But the installation of aluminum and bimetallic heating radiators is absolutely the same.

Steel panel ones also have some differences, but only in terms of hanging - brackets are included with them, and on the back panel there are special metal-cast shackles with which the heater clings to the hooks of the brackets.

Mayevsky crane or automatic air vent

This is a small device for venting air that can accumulate in the radiator. It is placed on a free upper outlet (collector). Must be on every heater when installing aluminum and bimetallic radiators. The size of this device is much smaller than the diameter of the manifold, so another adapter is required, but Mayevsky taps usually come with adapters, you just need to know the diameter of the manifold (connecting dimensions).

In addition to the Mayevsky tap, there are also automatic air vents. They can also be placed on radiators, but they are slightly larger and for some reason are only available in a brass or nickel-plated case. Not in white enamel. In general, the picture is unattractive and, although they deflate automatically, they are rarely installed.

Stub

There are four outlets for the radiator with lateral connection. Two of them are occupied by the supply and return pipelines, on the third they put a Mayevsky crane. The fourth entrance is closed with a plug. It, like most modern batteries, is most often painted with white enamel and does not spoil the appearance at all.

Shut-off valves

You will need two more ball valves or shut-off valves with the ability to adjust. They are placed on each battery at the input and output. If these are ordinary ball valves, they are needed so that, if necessary, you can turn off the radiator and remove it (emergency repair, replacement during the heating season). In this case, even if something happened to the radiator, you will cut it off, and the rest of the system will work. The advantage of this solution is the low price of ball valves, the minus is the impossibility of adjusting heat transfer.

Almost the same tasks, but with the ability to change the intensity of the coolant flow, are performed by shut-off control valves. They are more expensive, but they also allow you to adjust the heat transfer (make it smaller), and they look better outwardly, they are available in straight and angular versions, so the strapping itself is more accurate.

If desired, you can put a thermostat on the coolant supply after the ball valve. This is a relatively small device that allows you to change the heat output of the heater. If the radiator does not heat well, they cannot be installed - it will be even worse, since they can only reduce the flow. There are different temperature controllers for batteries - automatic electronic, but more often they use the simplest - mechanical.

Related materials and tools

You will also need hooks or brackets for hanging on the walls. Their number depends on the size of the batteries:

• if the sections are not more than 8 or the length of the radiator is not more than 1.2 m, two attachment points from above and one from below are sufficient;
• for every next 50 cm or 5-6 sections, add one fastener at the top and bottom.

Takde need a fum tape or linen winding, plumbing paste to seal the joints. You will also need a drill with drills, a level (a level is better, but a regular bubble one is also suitable), a certain number of dowels. You will also need equipment for connecting pipes and fittings, but it depends on the type of pipes. That's all.

Where and how to place

Traditionally, heating radiators are installed under the window. This is necessary so that the rising warm air cuts off the cold from the window. In order to prevent the glass from sweating, the width of the heater must be at least 70-75% of the width of the window. It needs to be installed:

How to install

Now about how to hang the radiator. It is highly desirable that the wall behind the radiator be flat - it is easier to work this way. The middle of the opening is marked on the wall, a horizontal line is drawn 10-12 cm below the window sill line. This is the line along which the upper edge of the heater is leveled. The brackets must be installed so that the upper edge coincides with the drawn line, that is, it is horizontal. This arrangement is suitable for heating systems with forced circulation (with a pump) or for apartments. For systems with natural circulation, a slight slope is made - 1-1.5% - along the course of the coolant. You can’t do more - there will be stagnation.

wall mount

This must be taken into account when mounting hooks or brackets for heating radiators. Hooks are installed like dowels - a hole of a suitable diameter is drilled in the wall, a plastic dowel is installed in it, and the hook is screwed into it. The distance from the wall to the heater is easily adjusted by screwing and unscrewing the hook body.

Hooks for cast iron batteries are thicker. This is fasteners for aluminum and bimetallic

When installing hooks for heating radiators, please note that the main load falls on the top fasteners. The lower one serves only for fixing in a given position relative to the wall and it is installed 1-1.5 cm lower than the lower collector. Otherwise, you simply will not be able to hang the radiator.

When installing the brackets, they are applied to the wall in the place where they will be mounted. To do this, first attach the battery to the installation site, look where the bracket will “fit”, mark the place on the wall. After putting the battery, you can attach the bracket to the wall and mark the location of the fasteners on it. In these places, holes are drilled, dowels are inserted, the bracket is screwed onto the screws. Having installed all the fasteners, the heater is hung on them.

Floor fixing

Not all walls can hold even light aluminum batteries. If the walls are made of or sheathed with drywall, floor installation is required. Some types of cast-iron and steel radiators come with legs right away, but they do not suit everyone in terms of appearance or characteristics.

Floor installation of radiators from aluminum and bimetallic is possible. There are special brackets for them. They are attached to the floor, then a heater is installed, the lower collector is fixed with an arc on the installed legs. Similar legs are available with adjustable height, there are fixed ones. The method of fastening to the floor is standard - on nails or dowels, depending on the material.

Heating radiator piping options

Installation of heating radiators involves their connection to pipelines. There are three main connection methods:

• saddle;
• unilateral;
• diagonal.

If you install radiators with a bottom connection, you have no choice. Each manufacturer strictly ties the supply and return, and its recommendations must be strictly followed, because otherwise you simply won’t get heat. With a side connection, there are more options ().

Binding with one-way connection

One-way connection is most often used in apartments. It can be two-pipe or one-pipe (the most common option). Metal pipes are still used in apartments, so we will consider the option of tying the radiator with steel pipes on the spurs. In addition to pipes of a suitable diameter, two ball valves, two tees and two spurs are needed - parts with external threads at both ends.

All this is connected as shown in the photo. With a single-pipe system, a bypass is required - it allows you to turn off the radiator without stopping or lowering the system. You can’t put a tap on the bypass - you will block the movement of the coolant along the riser with it, which is unlikely to please the neighbors and, most likely, you will fall under a fine.

All threaded connections are sealed with fum-tape or linen winding, on top of which packing paste is applied. When screwing the tap into the radiator manifold, a lot of winding is not required. Too much of it can lead to the appearance of microcracks and subsequent destruction. This is true for almost all types of heating appliances, except for cast iron. When installing all the rest, please, without fanaticism.

If you have the skills / ability to use welding, you can weld the bypass. This is what the piping of radiators in apartments usually looks like.

With a two-pipe system, a bypass is not needed. The supply is connected to the upper entrance, the return is connected to the lower one, taps, of course, are needed.

With lower wiring (pipes are laid along the floor), this type of connection is made very rarely - it turns out inconvenient and ugly, it is much better to use a diagonal connection in this case.

Binding with diagonal connection

Installing heating radiators with a diagonal connection is the best option in terms of heat transfer. She is the highest in this case. With a lower wiring, this type of connection is implemented easily (example in the photo) - supply from one side at the top, return from the other at the bottom.

A single pipe system with vertical risers (in apartments) does not look so good, but people put up with it because of the higher efficiency.

Please note that with a one-pipe system, a bypass is again required.

Strapping with saddle connection

With lower wiring or hidden pipes, installing heating radiators in this way is the most convenient and most inconspicuous.

With saddle connection and bottom single-pipe wiring, there are two options - with and without bypass. Without a bypass, the taps are still installed, if necessary, you can remove the radiator, and install a temporary jumper between the taps - a drive (a piece of pipe of the desired length with threads at the ends).

With vertical wiring (risers in high-rise buildings), this type of connection can be seen infrequently - too large heat losses (12-15%).

Video tutorials on installing heating radiators

In order for the installation of heating radiators to be completed as quickly and efficiently as possible, it is most rational to involve specialists in this. However, there are situations when the cost of services, announced by professionals, is clearly not affordable for the customer. And what to do in this case? Look for cheaper workers whose services are more affordable? But in a number of cases, the quality of the work performed by them is highly questionable. And then any customer comes to a logical decision - to install heating radiators on their own. This is quite doable. The main thing is to do everything carefully, having previously familiarized yourself with the simple rules and snip.

Installation of heating radiators

General description of the process of installing radiators

How to install a heating radiator? The process of installing radiators is not as complicated as most of us imagine it to be. More precisely, it can be difficult if the radiators themselves "try". Therefore, before choosing any model, it is important to familiarize yourself with the rules for its installation. For example, any person, even without being a professional, will be able to perform such an operation as installing an aluminum heating radiator, since they do not require the skills to use additional equipment. However, the same cannot be said about cast iron radiators - in order to install them, you will have to master the rules for using a welding machine.

Before purchasing radiators, you should carefully look at the existing models on the market.

In addition, it will not be superfluous to determine for yourself what exactly the characteristics of the radiators you need will be according to the following criteria:

• wear resistance;
• profitability;
• flowability;
• resistance to the environment.

And if you correctly determine these parameters and can choose the appropriate radiators, then the heating system in your house will delight you with warmth for many years. A significant role is played not only by the installation scheme of heating batteries, but also by the material from which the radiators are made. The fact is that many modern models made of ultra-high-quality and environmentally friendly materials have an exorbitant price. Therefore, try to be realistic about your capabilities and needs. It is unlikely that in a country house you may need super-expensive batteries.

When installing heating radiators on your own, you should be extremely careful and accurate.

In particular, during installation, one should take into account such parameters as the height of the radiator relative to the floor, the distance between the wall and the radiator. To a lesser extent, it matters which wall the battery will be attached to - most modern models are easily mounted on walls covered with drywall. However, remembering the characteristics that you should rely on is quite simple - the distance from the floor to the lowest point of the battery should not be less than 5 cm. The same distance (at least 5 cm) should be between the wall and the rear wall of the radiator.

It is very simple to perform such an operation as installing radiators on your own. If you have never dealt with any such work before, then the necessary information and the complete installation process can be found on our website, where instructions and video materials are presented. In addition, today there are a large number of specialized forums and resources where professional craftsmen share advice and show optimal schemes for installing heating radiators. And, using the information from a similar site, you can easily find out how to properly install the heating battery yourself.

Mounting tools

If you've never done repairs or installed radiators before, it's safe to assume that you probably don't have the tools you need. However, this does not mean that you definitely need to run to the store and buy everything. Firstly, it is quite expensive, and secondly, it may not be useful to you in the future.

Therefore, it is most rational before putting in a heating battery, it will simply ask around with friends - perhaps someone has what you need.

So, for the installation of radiators you will need: an impact drill and a drill with a victorious tip, a screwdriver, pliers, a building level.

A little trick - when purchasing heating radiators, check in advance that all elements are assembled. If this is not the case, ask the store to collect everything for you - thus, you will not have to purchase an expensive and unnecessary key in the future.

How to choose the right size batteries

Before purchasing batteries, it is necessary to correctly calculate what size they should be - how many sections to consist of. Quite a lot depends on this, including the installation scheme for heating radiators. After all, an insufficient number of sections will not allow the room to warm up, and an excessive number will simply be installed in vain.

The size of the batteries is calculated according to a very simple formula - 1 kW of radiator power is needed for 1 m 2. In some cases, the power indicator must be multiplied by a safety factor - 1.3. This is done when two walls in the room are external or there is more than 1 window.

Installation of radiators

A process such as the installation and installation of heating radiators can be divided into several points. First of all, it is necessary to correctly pack all the plugs, American women, Mayevsky's crane. Further, if necessary, the old radiator is dismantled. If, along with the replacement of radiators, the heating element is also replaced, it is necessary to first remove water from the system. To do this, turn off the water and use the pump to try to drain the water as much as possible.

The finished battery must be installed on the wall. The number of fasteners directly depends on the type of radiator and the principle of its installation.

If you plan to install cast iron radiators that will be welded into the system, then only two fasteners are enough. But if the radiator is connected to the system using polypropylene pipes, then there must be at least three fasteners. If the battery is small - 5-6 sections, then the fasteners should be placed in this way - 2 on top and one on the bottom. If the number of sections is 10 or more, then there should be more fasteners: in the upper part - at least 3, and in the lower part - 2.

Using the building level, we determine the correct location of the battery. Next, you need to designate the places where the plastic pipe will be connected to the metal one. After that, you need to wind all the elements. It is important to pay special attention to the quality and tightness of the connections. If there is even the slightest error, expect a leak. To prevent this from happening, use torque wrenches of the required size. Be extremely careful - if you install bimetallic or aluminum radiators, carefully tighten the valve through which air will be bled. Do not apply force above 12 kg to it. In order to tighten this crane correctly, again, torque wrenches will come in handy.

Features of the installation of cast iron radiators

Despite the fact that there are a huge number of types of batteries on the modern market, many of us, when planning how to install a heating radiator, ignore the new bimetallic and aluminum radiators, preferring the good old cast iron models.

Few people take into account that the installation of cast iron radiators is a more time-consuming and complex process.

However, the result is worth the time and effort. When installing, pay attention to the following factors:

• Before installing a cast iron radiator, it is necessary to adjust the nipples. To do this, the radiator is untwisted, the nipples are adjusted, after which everything is assembled back. The radiator is now ready for installation. It should be noted that disassembly must be carried out using special keys on a radiator workbench. In this case, it is desirable to unscrew both nipples at the same time - this way it will be possible to avoid distortion. Of course, it is most convenient to perform this action together. Please note - on different sides of the radiator, the thread is directed in different directions. After the nipples are unscrewed, remove the section.
• All radiator sections are removed in a similar way. Next - we assemble the sections strictly in the reverse order. The assembled radiator requires pressure testing - this way you can find out if there are any leaks. And if it is, re-adjust the nipple.

• In brick and foam concrete houses, cast iron radiators are mounted on special supports in the wall without any problems. But in the event that the battery is attached to a wooden wall, in addition to the standard supports, you will also need floor supports.
• If the heating system is single-pipe, a bypass must be installed by all means. In addition, the Mayevsky crane, as well as shutoff valves, must also be present in the system.
• To connect the radiator to the pipeline, it is necessary to use threaded sleeves. It is important to remember that in no case is it recommended to use a welding machine in a house with wooden walls.

Of course, to carry out the installation of heating radiators in an apartment on your own, or to entrust it to professionals, is a personal matter for each owner. Many go for the installation of radiator heating for a banal reason - replacing radiators for them is already too “expensive” and additional expenses for hiring specialists can turn into a collapse for the family budget. However, if you are really afraid to take on such work as mounting a heating radiator, then it is better not to risk it. After all, experts will be able to do everything in fact with high quality. But the only difficulty is that you really need to find professionals who know the options for installing heating radiators and their subtleties, and not self-taught people who will install radiators for the second time in their lives. Hiring such a "master" can have very sad consequences.

the main / Radiators / How to install a bimetallic heating radiator with your own hands

Every house or apartment needs heating. Sometimes the main heating element becomes obsolete or deteriorates, you have to replace it with a new one. The choice of heating equipment must be approached responsibly. Basically, modern radiators are made of materials such as aluminum and steel. Bimetallic radiators incorporate both metals. How to install a bimetallic radiator with your own hands? It is not difficult, the main thing is to carefully follow all the instructions.

Advantages of bimetallic radiators

Bimetal radiators are in great demand. They successfully replace old cast iron batteries, have an attractive design and are economical. True, they are more expensive than aluminum batteries.

Bimetal heating radiator

A feature of this type of battery is the presence of two different metals in their composition. The core is made of steel (copper), and the body is made of aluminum.

The advantages of bimetallic radiators include:

• durability (can last more than 20 years);
• the ability to withstand high pressure hot water (up to 30 atmospheres);
• strength, resistance to various mechanical influences (shocks, scratches);
• a small center distance, which manifests itself in a more efficient heating of the room:
• resistance to corrosion;
• high heat transfer;
• stylish look.

Due to their advantages, bimetallic batteries are used both in private houses and in apartment buildings with central heating.

Vacation home

Some bimetallic radiators differ in price. In cheap models, when both metals are heated at the same time, noise occurs due to the fact that they expand differently. Expensive models are equipped with a special polymer coating that muffles this sound.

When buying a radiator, you will have to take into account the diameter of the supply pipes that will be connected to it.

Calculation of the number of required sections

In order for the radiator to fully warm up the room in which it is installed, and not to consume an excessive amount of thermal energy, it is necessary to calculate the optimal number of sections. To do this, you need to know the power of the device (it is indicated in its technical passport) and the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room (calculated by multiplying the length by its width).

Calculation of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house

The power of each section of the battery is measured in watts. In accordance with building codes per 1 sq.m. you need 100 watts of heater power. This figure (100W) is divided by the power of one section of the battery. The resulting value is multiplied by the area of ​​the room.

Here's what that formula looks like:

• S*100/P
• S is the area of ​​the room;
• P is the power of one section.

For example, the parameters of the room are 5x4 meters. Its area is 20 sq.m. Let one section of the battery have a power of 250 watts. It turns out: 20*100/250=8

This means that for heating this room you will need a battery with 8 sections. If the number is not whole (for example, 8.5), then it is necessary to round it up to a larger value (up to 9).

Battery of 8 sections

But in an apartment with uninsulated walls or ventilated window openings, the number of sections may not be enough for high-quality heating.

If more than 10 sections are needed to heat a room, then it is recommended not to combine them into one radiator, but to install two separate batteries. So the heating of the room will be more efficient.

Two batteries of 5 sections

Basic Rules for Installing Batteries

Before you learn how to properly install a bimetallic heating radiator, you need to learn about the important conditions that are taken into account during its installation. Regardless of the type of battery, in order to ensure normal heat exchange and air circulation in the room, the following rules should be followed:

1. The radiator should be placed under the window opening in the center. Its upper grill should be located at a distance of 5-10 cm from the windowsill.
2. A distance of 8-10 cm must be maintained between the lower part of the heating element and the floor.
3. The distance between the radiator and the wall should be 2-5 cm.

Distance between wall and radiator

All this will have to be taken into account not only when installing the battery, but also when purchasing it, since they come in different heights.

If reflective insulation is installed on the wall behind the radiator, the battery mounts that come with the kit are likely to be short. Longer clamps will need to be purchased.

The battery is installed clearly in a horizontal position. It is recommended to install batteries in the same place in each room of the house (apartment).

Battery installation

Do-it-yourself installation of a bimetallic radiator

How to install a bimetallic radiator? Each battery comes with instructions from the manufacturer. It must be installed in accordance with these instructions.

The most reliable option is to entrust the installation of the battery to a qualified specialist, checking that he has a license for this type of work. If you wish, you can install a radiator with your own hands. To do this, you must follow the step-by-step instructions.

Installation of the battery by the master

Before installation, the radiator is flushed. Do not use alkaline products and abrasive materials. They can damage the surface of the pipe and lead to fluid leakage.

Preparatory stage

Battery installation should be carried out in the summer. Before starting work, make sure that there is no liquid in the pipes, or shut off its flow at the inlet and outlet of the heating system.

Battery installation in summer

First you need to dismantle the old radiator and prepare a place for installing a new one.

Be sure to check the completeness of the battery. Usually it is purchased in an already assembled state, but if this is not the case, then you need to assemble it yourself. The assembly takes place in accordance with the developer's instructions using a special radiator key.

Attention! In bimetallic radiators, both left-hand and right-hand threads are used.

Left hand and right hand thread

To prevent contamination of the valve designed to remove air, a filter is placed on the supply pipe.

Radiator installation

The battery is installed according to the following plan:

1. Marking on the wall of the place for mounting the brackets. They must be located between the sections of the battery.
2. Bracket fastenings. The mounting method depends on the material of the wall surface on which the battery is installed. On a wall made of brick or reinforced concrete, the brackets are fastened with dowels or fixed with cement mortar, and on a drywall surface - with double-sided fastening.
3. Installing the radiator on fixed brackets. The correctness of its position is checked using the building level.
4. Connecting the battery to the pipes.
5. Installation of a faucet or thermostatic valve.
6. Installation of an air valve (automatic is recommended, for example, a Mayevsky crane) in the upper part of the heater.

Very important! The air valve is installed without fail, since gas formation occurs inside the battery.

Air valve for battery

Upon completion of the installation, the system is turned on. All taps open smoothly. Opening the valves too abruptly can lead to hydrodynamic shock.

After opening the taps, you need to bleed the air through the Mayevsky tap. If you have to bleed air too often, then this may indicate a malfunction - a leak in the battery or heating boiler.

If you cover the heating radiator with any decorative element - a screen, screen, curtain or box, this will lead to a decrease in heat transfer. And if sensors are installed on the battery that automatically regulate the strength of heating, then they will respond to temperature changes not in the room itself, but under the screen.

Battery temperature sensors

When operating the heating system, the following rules must be followed:

1. Cleaning the battery twice a year - before and after the end of the heating season.
2. It is possible to completely drain the liquid from the heating system for a maximum of 14 days.
3. It is forbidden to abruptly open the shut-off valve.
4. Do not paint the hole from which air escapes.

Cleaning the battery

Knowing how to install a bimetallic heating radiator with your own hands, you can save on paying for the services of a specialist. The main thing is to follow the rules for installing batteries and the developer's instructions. If the battery is installed correctly, and during its operation all the necessary conditions are met, then it will last a long time.

Photo gallery (13 photos)

gopb.ru

Do-it-yourself installation of bimetallic heating radiators

Bimetallic radiators are rapidly gaining popularity among buyers. In terms of consumer characteristics, they are in many ways superior to cast iron ones, and are approximately on the same level with aluminum batteries. At the same time, aluminum radiators are not resistant to pressure drops in apartment buildings, and therefore bimetallic devices are the best choice for an apartment. Do-it-yourself installation of bimetallic heating radiators is devoted to this article.

Bimetallic radiators are superior in performance to cast iron ones, and are approximately on the same level as aluminum batteries.

Bimetallic batteries have a number of important advantages:

• long service life - about two decades;
• high level of heat transfer;
• resistance to hydrodynamic and mechanical influences;
• attractive appearance;
• corrosion resistance;
• fast response in case of need to change the temperature, achieved through the use of channels with a small diameter.

The main disadvantage of bimetal is the high cost of devices.

Installing a radiator with your own hands is quite possible, but it will require an understanding of their design features, and preferably some practical skills.

A bimetal heater includes two main elements: an aluminum body and a steel (or copper) core.

There are two types of radiators:

• fully bimetallic devices, where the core is a pipe for transferring a coolant that does not come into contact with the body material;
• partially bimetallic devices, where the internal channels are equipped with plates of another metal.

Fully bimetallic batteries are more durable in relation to both mechanical and hydrodynamic influences, and, accordingly, are more durable.

Calculation of the number of sections

To calculate the required number of sections, a number of factors must be taken into account. First of all, you need to know the battery capacity and the area of ​​​​the room. There are also more complex calculation methods that take into account additional parameters (for example, non-standard ceiling heights, the number of windows and doors, the number of external walls, etc.).

Before installing the radiator, it is necessary to calculate the number of sections

The simplest formula for calculating the number of sections looks like this:

number of sections = room area x 100 / battery power.

The standard ceiling height is 2 meters 70 centimeters.

If there is a 12 meter room and radiators with 180 watt sections, then the formula will look like this:

12 x 100/180 = 6.66.

We round the resulting value up and as a result we find out that 7 sections are needed to heat the room.

Installing a bimetallic battery

Do-it-yourself installation of the heating device is carried out according to the instructions set out in the equipment passport.

Note! Installation of all components of the heating system is carried out in a plastic packaging of the equipment and is not removed until the installation is completed.

Building regulations

Installation of bimetallic devices must be carried out in accordance with the instructions of building codes and regulations (SNiP). Specific requirements are set out in section 3.05.01-85.

Requirements for the installation of bimetallic radiators

During installation work, it is necessary to adhere to the following parameters:

• The distance from the wall is 30-50 millimeters. If the device is too close to the wall, the back surface of the battery will not distribute heat energy efficiently.
• Distance from the floor - 100 millimeters. If the radiator is installed lower, the heat exchange efficiency will decrease, and it will also be difficult to clean the floor under the radiator. Also, the radiator should not be placed too high, since in this case the temperatures at the top and bottom of the room are too differentiated.
• The distance from the window sill is 80-120 millimeters. If the gap is made too small, the heat flow from the heating device will decrease.

Mounting order

Work on the installation of bimetallic batteries must be carried out in a certain sequence:

• mark places for mounting brackets on the wall;
• we fix the brackets with dowels and cement mortar (if we are talking about a reinforced concrete or brick wall) or by double-sided fastening (if it is a plasterboard partition);
• we put the battery strictly horizontally on the already installed brackets;
• we connect the radiator to the pipes, install a faucet or a thermostatic valve;
• put the air valve at the top of the radiator.

Note! An air valve (preferably an automatic one) is required to be installed, since a small formation of gases occurs inside the device.

• Before starting work, it is necessary to block the flow of coolant in the heating system at the inlet and outlet, or make sure that there is no liquid in the pipeline.
• Even before starting the installation, you need to check the completeness of the radiator. It must be in the assembled state. If this is not the case, we take a radiator key and assemble the battery according to the manufacturer's instructions.

• The design must be absolutely hermetic, so abrasive materials should not be used during assembly, as they destroy the material of the device.
• When tightening fasteners, one should not forget that both left-handed and right-handed threads are used in bimetallic devices.
• When connecting sanitary fittings, it is extremely important to choose the right material. Flax is usually used along with a thermally resistant sealant, FUM tape (fluoroplastic sealing material) or Tangit threads.
• Before starting installation work, you need to carefully plan the connection scheme. Batteries can be connected diagonally, sideways or at the bottom. It is rational to install a bypass in a single-pipe system, that is, a pipe that will allow the system to function normally when the batteries are connected in series.
• After the installation is completed, the system is turned on. This should be done by smoothly opening all the valves that previously blocked the path of the coolant. Too abrupt opening of the taps leads to clogging of the internal pipe section or hydrodynamic shocks.
• Following the opening of the valves, it is necessary to release excess air through an air vent (for example, a Mayevsky tap).

Note! Batteries must not be covered with screens or placed in wall niches. This will drastically reduce the heat transfer of the equipment.

Properly installed bimetallic heating radiators are the key to their long and trouble-free operation. If you have any doubts about the ability to install them yourself, it is better to contact specialists.

klivent.biz

Do-it-yourself installation of bimetallic radiators

Upgrading the heating system in both a private house and your own apartment is impossible without replacing old cast-iron batteries with more practical and modern devices.

One of the best solutions is the installation of bimetallic radiators with your own hands. Their neat appearance will fit into any interior, and high heat transfer rates will bring a long-awaited atmosphere of comfort.

The scheme of such a heating system is quite simple: the design consists of the radiators themselves and steel pipes adjacent to them, the joints of which are processed by spot welding.

Installation of bimetallic heating radiators does not require much destruction and is carried out quite carefully.

Basic rules for installing bimetallic radiators in the house

Any inept intervention in the heating system can adversely affect its further operation and the quality of space heating.

Therefore, before performing the main stages of work, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with a number of rules and adhere to them in the future.

What do you need to remember for a novice craftsman who decides to install a bimetallic radiator with his own hands?

• The optimal distance from the floor to the bottom of the radiator is at least 60-70 mm and not more than 100-120 mm to maintain a high level of heat transfer;
• The upper part of the radiator should be located at a distance of 50-60 mm from the edge of the window sill, in order to improve convection and facilitate the installation of equipment;
• The radiator is recommended to be placed in the center of the window;
• The equipment is installed in a strictly horizontal position;
• Heating elements should be installed at the same level within each room.

The installed bimetallic radiator must not be treated with metal coatings, since an additional layer of paint can disrupt the operation of the thermostat and reduce heat transfer rates by an average of 10%.

Also, do not use abrasives to clean the device.

How to install a bimetal radiator

Replacing old batteries with new bimetallic devices can be done on your own if you have sufficient knowledge for this work.

Installation of the heating system is carried out in several stages.

Firstly, the master must dismantle the old heating radiators and carefully prepare the working area: mark a place for installing a new heater and drilling holes for the brackets.

The supporting part is fixed to the wall with dowels or sealed with cement mortar.

On this, the installation of a bimetallic radiator has not yet been completed. The equipment is equipped with shutoff valves and a jumper, and then the pipelines of the heating system are mounted.

Each radiator must be equipped with an air valve. This part is necessary to remove excess air filling from the system.

In the process of filling the system with coolant, the stabilizing valve must be closed by 2/3 in order to prevent water hammer.

At the end of the installation of the bimetallic radiator, the first strength test of the structure is carried out. Do not forget to thoroughly clean the heatsink and remove any remaining debris and dirt from the body.

As the system is operated, it is also necessary to follow a number of rules and adhere to some recommendations:

• The radiator is cleaned 1-2 times a year - at the beginning and during the heating season;
• Complete draining of the coolant from the heating system is allowed only for a period of not more than 2 weeks;
• It is forbidden to abruptly open shut-off valves;
• It is not permissible to paint the air outlet hole;
• It is advisable to equip some heating systems with special pumps or closed expansion tanks.

Qualitatively performed work on the installation of bimetallic radiators with your own hands and successfully carried out tests will be the key to a long and reliable operation of the entire heating system.

A successful example of the installation of bimetallic radiators can be clearly seen in the video.

You can purchase an arbitrarily powerful heating boiler, but not achieve the expected warmth and comfort in the house. The reason for this may well be improperly selected final heat exchange devices. indoors, as which traditionally most often act as radiators. But even the assessments that seem to be quite suitable according to all criteria sometimes do not justify the hopes of their owners. Why?

And the reason may lie in the fact that the radiators are connected according to a scheme that is very far from optimal. And this circumstance simply does not allow them to show those heat transfer output parameters that are announced by manufacturers. Therefore, let's take a closer look at the question: what are the possible schemes for connecting heating radiators in a private house. Let's see what are the advantages and disadvantages of these or those options. Let's see what technological methods are used to optimize some circuits.

Necessary information for the correct choice of the radiator connection scheme

In order for further explanations to become more understandable to an inexperienced reader, it makes sense to first consider what a standard heating radiator is in principle. The term “standard” is used because there are also completely “exotic” batteries, but their consideration is not included in the plans of this publication.

The basic device of a heating radiator

So, if you depict a conventional heating radiator schematically, you might get something like this:

From the layout point of view, this is usually a set of heat exchange sections (item 1). The number of these sections can vary over a fairly wide range. Many battery models allow you to vary this amount, adding and decreasing, depending on the required thermal total power or based on the maximum allowable assembly dimensions. To do this, a threaded connection is provided between the sections using special couplings (nipples) with the necessary seal. Other radiators of this possibility do not imply their sections are connected “tightly” or even represent a single metal structure. But in the light of our topic, this difference is of fundamental importance.

But what is important is, so to speak, the hydraulic part of the battery. All sections are united by common manifolds located horizontally at the top (pos. 2) and below (pos. 3). And at the same time, in each of the sections, these collectors are connected by a vertical channel (pos. 4) for the movement of the coolant.

Each of the collectors has two inputs, respectively. In the diagram, they are designated G1 and G2 for the upper manifold, G3 and G4 for the lower one.

In the vast majority of connection schemes used in the heating systems of private houses, only these two inputs are always involved. One is connected to the supply pipe (that is, coming from the boiler). The second - to the "return", that is, to the pipe through which the coolant returns from the radiator to the boiler room. The remaining two entrances are blocked by plugs or other locking devices.

And here's what's important - the efficiency of the expected heat transfer of the heating radiator largely depends on how these two inputs, supply and return, are mutually located.

Note : Of course, the scheme is given with a significant simplification, and in many types of radiators it may have its own characteristics. So, for example, in cast-iron batteries of the MS-140 type, familiar to everyone, each section has two vertical channels connecting the collectors. And in steel radiators there are no sections at all - but the system of internal channels, in principle, repeats the hydraulic scheme shown. So everything that will be said below applies equally to them.

Where is the supply pipe, and where is the "return"?

It is quite clear that in order to correctly optimally position the inlet and outlet to the radiator, it is necessary at least to know in which direction the coolant is moving. In other words, where is the supply, and where is the “return”. And the fundamental difference can already be hidden in the very type of heating system - it can be single-pipe or

Features of a one-pipe system

This heating system is especially common in high-rise buildings, it is quite popular in single-story individual construction. Its wide demand is primarily based on the fact that much fewer pipes are required during creation, and the volume of installation work is reduced.

If explained as simply as possible, then this system is a single pipe passing from the supply pipe to the boiler inlet pipe (as an option - from the supply to the return manifold), on which the series-connected heating radiators seem to be “strung”.

On the scale of one level (floor), it might look something like this:

It is quite obvious that the "return" of the first radiator in the "chain" becomes the supply of the next one - and so on, until the end of this closed circuit. It is clear that from the beginning to the end of a single-pipe circuit, the temperature of the coolant is steadily decreasing, and this is one of the most significant drawbacks of such a system.

It is also possible the location of a single-pipe circuit, which is typical for buildings with several floors. This approach was commonly practiced in the construction of urban apartment buildings. However, it can also be found in private houses with several floors. This should also not be forgotten if, say, the house went to the owners from the old owners, that is, with the wiring of the heating circuits already installed.

Two options are possible here, shown below in the diagram, respectively, under the letters "a" and "b".

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• Option "a" is called a riser with an upper coolant supply. That is, from the supply manifold (boiler), the pipe rises freely to the highest point of the riser, and then sequentially passes down through all the radiators. That is, the hot coolant is supplied directly to the batteries in the direction from top to bottom.
• Option "b" - single-pipe wiring with bottom feed. Already on the way up, along the ascending pipe, the coolant passes a series of radiators. Then the direction of the flow changes to the opposite, the coolant passes through another string of batteries until it enters the "return" collector.

The second option is used for reasons of saving pipes, but it is obvious that the disadvantage of a single-pipe system, that is, the temperature drop from radiator to radiator along the coolant, is even more pronounced.

Thus, if you have a single-pipe system installed in your house or apartment, then in order to select the optimal scheme for connecting radiators, it is imperative to clarify in which direction the coolant is supplied.

The secrets of the popularity of the Leningradka heating system

Despite the rather significant shortcomings, single-pipe systems still remain quite popular. An example of this - which is described in detail in a separate article of our portal. And one more publication is devoted to that element, without which single-pipe systems are not able to work normally.

What if the system is two-pipe?

A two-pipe heating system is considered more advanced. It is easier to manage, better amenable to fine adjustments. But this is against the background of the fact that more material is required to create it, and installation work is becoming larger.

As can be seen from the illustration, both the supply pipe and the return pipe are essentially manifolds to which the corresponding pipes of each of the radiators are connected. The obvious advantage is that the temperature in the supply pipe-collector is maintained almost the same for all heat exchange points, that is, it almost does not depend on the location of a particular battery in relation to the heat source (boiler).

This scheme is also used in systems for houses with several floors. An example is shown in the diagram below:

In this case, the supply riser is muffled from above, as is the "return" pipe, that is, they are turned into two parallel vertical collectors.

Here it is important to understand one nuance correctly. The presence of two pipes near the radiator does not mean at all that the system itself is a two-pipe system. For example, with vertical wiring, there may be such a picture:

Such an arrangement can mislead an inexperienced owner in these matters. Despite the presence of two risers, the system is still single-pipe, since the heating radiator is connected to only one of them. And the second is a riser that provides the upper supply of coolant.

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aluminum radiator

It's different if the connection looks like this:

The difference is obvious: the battery is embedded in two different pipes - supply and return. That is why there is no bypass jumper between the inputs - it is completely unnecessary with such a scheme.

There are other two-pipe connection schemes. For example, the so-called collector (it is also called "beam" or "star"). This principle is often resorted to when they try to place all the pipes of the circuit wiring secretly, for example, under the floor covering.

In such cases, a collector node is placed in a certain place, and from it already has separate supply and return pipes for each of the radiators. But at its core, it's still a two-pipe system.

Why is all this being told? And to the fact that if the system is two-pipe, then in order to select the radiator connection scheme, it is important to clearly know which of the pipes is the supply manifold, and which is connected to the "return".

But the direction of flow through the pipes themselves, which was decisive for a single-pipe system, does not play a role here. The movement of the coolant directly through the radiator will depend solely on the relative position of the tie-in pipes into the supply and into the "return".

By the way, even in the conditions of a not very large house, a combination of both schemes may well be used. For example, a two-pipe was used, however, in a separate area, say, in one of the spacious rooms or in an extension, several radiators are located, connected according to a single-pipe principle. And this means that in order to choose a connection scheme, it is important not to get confused, and individually evaluate each heat exchange point: what will be decisive for it - the direction of flow in the pipe or the relative position of the pipes-collectors of the supply and return pipes.

If such clarity is achieved, it is possible to select the optimal scheme for connecting radiators to the circuits.

Schemes for connecting radiators to the circuit and evaluating their effectiveness

All of the above was a kind of "prelude" to this section. Now we will get acquainted with how radiators can be connected to the pipes of the circuit, and which method gives the maximum heat transfer efficiency.

As we have already seen, two radiator inputs are activated, and two more are muffled. What direction of movement of the coolant through the battery will be optimal?

A few more preliminary words. What are the "motivating reasons" for the movement of the coolant through the channels of the radiator.

• This is, firstly, the dynamic pressure of the liquid created in the heating circuit. The liquid tends to fill the entire volume if conditions are created for this (there are no air pockets). But it is quite clear that, like any stream, it will tend to flow along the path of least resistance.
• Secondly, the temperature difference (and, accordingly, the density) of the coolant in the radiator cavity itself also becomes the “driving force”. Hotter streams tend to rise, trying to displace the cooled ones.

The combination of these forces ensures the flow of coolant through the radiator channels. But depending on the connection scheme, the overall picture can vary quite a lot.

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cast iron radiator

Diagonal connection, infeed from above

Such a scheme is considered to be the most effective. Radiators with such a connection show their capabilities to the fullest. Usually, when calculating a heating system, it is she who is taken as a “unit”, and one or another correction factor will be introduced for all the others.

It is quite obvious that a priori, the coolant cannot meet any obstacles with such a connection. The liquid completely fills the volume of the pipe of the upper manifold, flows evenly through the vertical channels from the upper manifold to the lower one. As a result, the entire heat exchange area of ​​the radiator is heated evenly, and the maximum heat transfer of the battery is achieved.

One-way connection, feed from above

Highly common scheme - this is how radiators are usually mounted in a single-pipe system in the risers of high-rise buildings with an upper supply, or on descending branches - with a lower supply.

In principle, the circuit is quite effective, especially if the radiator itself is not too long. But if there are a lot of sections in the battery, then the appearance of negative moments is not excluded.

It is quite likely that the kinetic energy of the coolant will be insufficient for the flow to fully pass through the upper collector to the very end. The liquid is looking for "easy ways", and the bulk of the flow begins to pass through the vertical internal channels of the sections, which are located closer to the inlet pipe. Thus, it is impossible to completely exclude the formation in the “peripheral zone” of a stagnation area, the temperature of which will be lower than in the area adjacent to the side of the tie-in.

Even with normal dimensions of radiators along the length, one usually has to put up with a loss of thermal power of about 3÷5%. Well, if the batteries are long, then the efficiency can be even lower. In this case, it is better to apply either the first scheme, or use special methods for optimizing the connection - a separate section of the publication will be devoted to this.

One-way connection, infeed from below

The scheme cannot be called effective in any way, although, by the way, it is used quite often when installing single-pipe heating systems in multi-storey buildings, if the supply is from below. On the ascending branch, all the batteries in the riser are most often built in this way. and, probably, this is the only slightly justified case of its use.

For all, it seems, the similarity with the previous one, the shortcomings here are only exacerbated. In particular, the occurrence of a dead zone in the side of the radiator remote from the inlet becomes even more likely. This is easily explained. Not only will the coolant look for the shortest and freest path, the difference in density will also contribute to its upward trend. And the periphery can either “freeze” or the circulation in it will be insufficient. That is, the far edge of the radiator will become noticeably colder.

The loss of heat transfer efficiency with such a connection can reach 20÷22%. That is, unless absolutely necessary, it is not recommended to resort to it. And if circumstances leave no other choice, then it is recommended to resort to one of the optimization methods.

Bidirectional bottom connection

Such a scheme is used quite often, usually for reasons of hiding the supply pipe from visibility as much as possible. However, its effectiveness is still far from optimal.

It is quite obvious that the easiest way for the coolant is the lower collector. Its upward propagation along vertical channels occurs solely due to the difference in density. But this flow becomes a "brake" oncoming flows of the cooled liquid. As a result, the upper part of the radiator can warm up much more slowly and not as intensively as we would like.

Losses in the overall heat exchange efficiency with such a connection can reach up to 10÷15%. True, such a scheme is also easy to optimize.

Diagonal connection from below

It is difficult to think of a situation in which one would have to resort to such a connection. However, consider this scheme.

Prices for bimetallic radiators

bimetal radiators

The direct flow entering the radiator gradually wastes its kinetic energy, and may simply “not finish off” along the entire length of the lower collector. This is facilitated by the fact that the flows in the initial section rush upwards, both along the shortest path and due to the temperature difference. As a result, on a battery with a large comic section, it is quite likely that a stagnant area with a low temperature will appear under the return pipe.

Approximate loss of efficiency, despite the apparent similarity with the most optimal option, with this connection are estimated at 20%.

Bilateral top connection

Let's be honest - this is more of an example, since putting such a scheme into practice would be the height of illiteracy.

Judge for yourself - a direct passage through the upper manifold is open for liquid. And in general, there are no other incentives for distribution throughout the rest of the radiator volume. That is, only the area along the upper collector will really warm up - the rest of it turns out to be “outside the game”. It is hardly worth evaluating the loss of efficiency in this case - the radiator itself turns into a clearly inefficient one.

The top two-way connection is rarely used. Nevertheless, there are also such radiators - pronouncedly high, often simultaneously acting as dryers. And if you have to bring the pipes in this way, then without fail, various methods are used to turn such a connection into an optimal scheme. Very often this is already incorporated in the design of the radiators themselves, that is, the upper one-way connection remains such only visually.

How can you optimize the radiator connection scheme?

It is quite clear that any owners want their heating system to show maximum efficiency with minimal energy consumption. And for this we must try to apply the most optimal tie-in schemes. But often the piping is already there and you don’t want to redo it. Or, initially, the owners plan to lay pipes so that they become almost invisible. How to be in such cases?

On the Internet, you can find a lot of photos when they try to optimize the tie-in by changing the configuration of the pipes suitable for the battery. The effect of increasing heat transfer in this case must be achieved, but outwardly some works of such “art” look, frankly, “not very good”.

There are other methods to solve this problem.

• You can purchase batteries that, outwardly no different from ordinary ones, still have a feature in their design that turns one or another possible connection method as close to optimal as possible. In the right place between the sections, a partition is installed in them, which radically changes the direction of movement of the coolant.

In particular, the radiator can be designed for bottom two-way connection:

All the "wisdom" is in the presence of a partition (plug) in the lower manifold between the first and second sections of the battery. The coolant has nowhere to go, and it rises up vertical channel of the first section up. And then, from this high point, further distribution, quite obviously, is already underway, as in the most optimal diagram with a diagonal connection with a feed from above.

Or, for example, the case mentioned above when it is required to bring both pipes from above:

In this example, the baffle is installed on the upper manifold, between the penultimate and last sections of the radiator. It turns out that there is only one way left for the entire volume of the coolant - through the lower entrance of the last section, vertically along it - and further into the return pipe. Eventually " traffic route» fluid through the channels of the battery again becomes diagonal from top to bottom.

Many radiator manufacturers think over this issue in advance - whole series go on sale in which the same model can be designed for different tie-in schemes, but in the end an optimal “diagonal” is obtained. This is indicated in the product data sheets. At the same time, it is also important to take into account the direction of the insertion - if you change the flow vector, then the entire effect is lost.

• There is another possibility to increase the efficiency of the radiator according to this principle. To do this, in specialized stores you should find special valves.

They must match their dimensions to the selected battery model. When such a valve is screwed in, it closes the adapter nipple between the sections, and then a supply or “return” pipe is packed into its internal thread, depending on the scheme.

• The internal baffles shown above are intended, to a large extent, to improve heat transfer when connecting batteries on both sides. But there are ways for one-sided tie-in - we are talking about the so-called flow extensions.

Such an extension is a pipe, usually with a nominal diameter of 16 mm, which is connected to the radiator through-hole plug and, during assembly, ends up in the collector cavity, along its axis. On sale you can find such extensions for the required type of thread and the required length. Or, a special coupling is simply purchased, and the tube of the required length is selected separately for it.

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metal-plastic pipes

What is achieved by this? Let's look at the diagram:

The coolant entering the radiator cavity, through the flow extension, enters the far upper corner, that is, to the opposite edge of the upper collector. And from here, its movement to the outlet pipe will already be carried out again according to the optimal "diagonal from top to bottom" scheme.

Many masters practice and independent production of such extension cords. If you figure it out, then nothing is impossible in this.

As the extension itself, it is quite possible to use a metal-plastic pipe for hot water with a diameter of 15 mm. It remains only from the inside to pack the fitting for the metal-plastic into the passage plug of the battery. After assembling the battery, the extension cord of the desired length is in place.

As can be seen from the foregoing, it is almost always possible to find a solution on how to turn an inefficient battery insertion scheme into an optimal one.

And what about a one-way bottom connection?

They may ask in bewilderment - why is the scheme of the lower connection of the radiator on one side not mentioned in the article yet? After all, it is quite popular, as it allows you to carry out a hidden pipe connection to the maximum extent.

But the fact is that possible schemes were considered above, so to speak, from a hydraulic point of view. And in their one-way bottom connection there is simply no place - if at one point both the coolant is supplied and the coolant is taken away, then no flow through the radiator will happen at all.

What is commonly understood under bottom one-way connection in fact, it involves only the supply of pipes to one edge of the radiator. But the further movement of the coolant through the internal channels, as a rule, is organized according to one of the optimal schemes discussed above. This is achieved either by the features of the device of the battery itself, or by special adapters.

Here is just one example of radiators specially designed for pipe connections. one side bottom:

If you understand the scheme, it immediately becomes clear that the system of internal channels, partitions and valves organizes the movement of the coolant according to the principle already known to us “one-way with supply from above”, which can be considered one of the best options. There are similar schemes, which are also supplemented with a flow extension, and then the most effective "diagonal from top to bottom" pattern is generally achieved.

Even an ordinary radiator can be easily converted into a model with a bottom connection. To do this, a special kit is purchased - a remote adapter, which, as a rule, is immediately equipped with thermal valves for thermostatic adjustment of the radiator.

The upper and lower pipes of such a device are packed into the sockets of a conventional radiator without any modifications. The result is a finished battery with a lower one-way connection, and even with a thermal control and balancing device.

So, we figured out the connection diagrams. But what else can affect the heat transfer efficiency of a heating radiator?

How does the location of the radiator on the wall affect the efficiency of the radiator?

You can purchase a very high-quality radiator, apply the optimal scheme for its connection, but in the end you will not achieve the expected heat transfer, if you do not take into account a number of important nuances of its installation.

There are several generally accepted rules for the location of batteries in a room relative to the wall, floor, window sills, and other interior items.

• Most often, radiators are located under window openings. This place is still unclaimed for other objects, and besides this, the streams of heated air become like a thermal curtain, which largely limits the free distribution of cold from the window surface.

Of course, this is just one of the installation options, and radiators can also be mounted on walls, regardless of the presence on those window openings- it all depends on the required number of such heat exchange devices.

• If the radiator is installed under the window, then they try to adhere to the rule that its length should be about ¾ of the width of the window. This way, optimal indicators of heat transfer and protection against the penetration of cold air from the window will be obtained. The battery is installed in the center, with a possible tolerance in one direction or another up to 20 mm.
• You should not install the battery too high - the window sill hanging over it can turn into a formidable barrier to ascending convection air flows, which leads to a decrease in the overall heat transfer efficiency. They try to maintain a clearance of about 100 mm (from the upper edge of the battery to the lower surface of the "visor"). If it is impossible to set all 100 mm, then at least ¾ of the thickness of the radiator.
• There is a certain regulation and clearance from below, between the radiator and the floor surface. Too high an arrangement (more than 150 mm) can lead to the formation of a layer of air along the floor covering that is not involved in convection, that is, a noticeably cold layer. Too low a height, less than 100 mm, will bring unnecessary difficulties when cleaning, the space under the battery can turn into a dust accumulation, which, by the way, will also negatively affect the efficiency of heat transfer. The optimal height is within 100 ÷ 120 mm.
• The optimal location from the load-bearing wall should also be maintained. Even when installing the brackets for the canopy of the battery, it is taken into account that there must be a free clearance of at least 20 mm between the wall and the sections. Otherwise, deposits of dust may accumulate there, and normal convection will be disturbed.

These rules can be considered indicative. If the manufacturer of radiators does not give other recommendations, then they should be guided by them. But very often in the passports of specific battery models there are diagrams that specify the recommended installation parameters. Of course, then they are taken as the basis for the installation work.

The next nuance is how open the installed battery is for full heat transfer. Of course, the maximum performance will be with a completely open installation on a flat vertical wall surface. But, quite understandably, this method is not used so often.

If the battery is under the window, then the window sill may interfere with the convection air flow. The same, even to a greater extent, applies to niches in the wall. In addition, they often try to cover radiators, or even completely closed (with the exception of the front grille) casings. If these nuances are not taken into account when choosing the required heating power, that is, the heat output of the battery, then it is quite possible to encounter the sad fact that it is not possible to achieve the expected comfortable temperature.

The table below shows the main possible options for installing radiators on the wall according to their "degrees of freedom". Each of the cases is characterized by its own indicator of the loss of efficiency of the overall heat transfer.

Illustration	Operational features of the installation option
	The radiator is installed in such a way that it does not overlap with anything from above, or the window sill (shelf) protrudes no more than ¾ of the battery thickness. In principle, there are no barriers to normal air convection. If the battery is not closed with thick curtains, then there is no interference for direct thermal radiation. In calculations, such an installation scheme is taken as a unit.
	The horizontal "visor" of the window sill or shelf completely covers the radiator from above. That is, a rather significant obstacle appears for the upward convection flow. With a normal clearance (which was already mentioned above - about 100 mm), the obstacle does not become "fatal", but certain efficiency losses are still observed. The infrared radiation from the battery remains in full. The final loss of efficiency can be estimated at about 3÷5%.
	A similar situation, but only not a visor is located on top, but a horizontal wall of a niche. Here, the losses are already somewhat greater - in addition to simply having an obstacle to the air flow, some of the heat will be spent on unproductive heating of the wall, which usually has a very impressive heat capacity. Therefore, it is quite possible to expect heat losses of approximately 7 - 8%.
	The radiator is installed as in the first option, that is, there are no obstacles to convection flows. But from the front side, over its entire area, it is covered with a decorative grille or screen. The intensity of the infrared heat flux is significantly reduced, which, by the way, is the defining principle of heat transfer for cast iron or bimetallic batteries. The total loss of heating efficiency can reach 10÷12%.
	The decorative casing covers the radiator from all sides. Despite the presence of slots or gratings to ensure heat exchange with the air in the room, the indicators of both thermal radiation and convection are sharply reduced. Therefore, we have to talk about the loss of efficiency, reaching up to 20÷25%.

So, we have considered the main schemes for connecting radiators to the heating circuit, analyzed the advantages and disadvantages of each of them. Information has been obtained on the applied methods for optimizing circuits, if for some reason it is impossible to change them in other ways. Finally, recommendations are given for placing batteries directly on the wall - indicating the risks of loss of efficiency that accompany selected installation options.

Presumably, this theoretical knowledge will help the reader to choose the correct scheme based on from the specific conditions for creating a heating system. But it would probably be logical to complete the article by giving our visitor the opportunity to independently evaluate the necessary heating battery, so to speak, in numerical terms, with reference to a specific room and taking into account all the nuances discussed above.

There is no need to be afraid - all this will be easy if you use the proposed online calculator. And below will be given the necessary brief explanations for working with the program.

How to calculate which radiator is needed for a particular room?

Everything is quite simple.

• First, the amount of thermal energy that is needed to heat the room, depending on its volume, and to compensate for possible heat losses is calculated. And, a rather impressive list of versatile criteria is taken into account.
• Then the obtained value is adjusted depending on the planned radiator tie-in scheme and the features of its location on the wall.
• The final value will show how much power a radiator needs to fully heat a particular room. If a collapsible model is purchased, then you can at the same time

The efficiency of the heating system of an apartment or a private house depends not only on the power of the heat sources. Proper installation of heating radiators will reduce the cost of heating the room, make it more productive and improve the microclimate.

Regardless of which system you use, either autonomous or centralized, where the radiator will be located - in an apartment or house, the rules for installing heating batteries are the same. There are three options for the location of radiators:

Types of heating systems

There are three options for radiator connection systems - serial, single-pipe, two-pipe and manifold (parallel). They differ in the wiring diagram. Depending on which system is installed, it is necessary to choose the type of batteries. It is important to remember that improper connection of heating radiators leads to a decrease.

Proper installation of heating radiators in a niche

It happens that in apartment buildings there is a niche for old cast-iron radiators. This method of installing radiators is ineffective, but sometimes there are no other options. So let's take a look at it.

• The distance between the side and rear walls of the niche to the radiator must be at least 5 cm.
• Air access from below should not be obstructed, as well as its exit from above. The distance from the bottom and top of the radiator to the walls must be more than 10 cm.

decorative grille should promote convection. Diagonal planks work best. The gap at the bottom of the radiator should not be closed with a grille to ensure optimal air convection.

If a niche is made in a parapet located along the wall, it is better to close its upper part with a decorative lattice, and not with a solid overlay.

The battery in the niche under the window should be located so that there is a distance to the window sill. It should be twice as far as the window sill protrudes from the wall. For example, if the window sill extends 15 cm beyond the wall, the distance from it to the niche should be 10 cm.

Read also:

How to drown the batteries into the wall without heat loss

The radiator in the niche under the window must be positioned so as to ensure good air convection. There should be at least 10 cm between its top and the edge of the niche.

How to properly install the battery under the window

Most heat loss occurs through windows. Therefore, the correct installation of the battery under the window is especially important.

• The radiator should be located exactly in the middle of the window - so it will cut off cold air and will not let it spread around the apartment.
• The installation height of the radiator from the floor should be 5-10 cm. If the gap is larger, a layer of cold air will form. If less, it will be difficult to clean under the battery.
• The distance from the wall must be at least 5 cm, so as not to impede air convection. Otherwise, the battery will heat the wall of the building, not the room.

If the radiator is equipped with air separators (see photo), the distance from it to the window sill should be more than 5 cm. If the window sill is wide and protrudes beyond the radiator, for every 1 cm of this difference, add 2 cm to the gap between it and the battery.

For radiators without an air cutter, the minimum distance to the window sill is 10 cm plus 3 cm for every 1 cm of protrusion. Installing heating radiators under the window close to the window sill will prevent air convection. And this will lead to a decrease in heat transfer.