Drainage: how to process the foundation for waterproofing a house. Reliable waterproofing of the foundation with your own hands How to cover the foundation

The basement is one of the most important parts of the building. This is a kind of support, which is subjected to constant negative influence environment. Finishing the basement of a private house not only gives it an aesthetic appearance, but also protects it from adverse factors. Therefore, finishing materials must be moisture-resistant, frost-resistant, reliable and durable.

Much of the building's foundation is below ground level and hidden from view. The protruding part above ground level is called the plinth. According to the norms, the height of the basement from the ground must be at least 20 cm. It is usually made of brick, stone or concrete slabs.

The construction of a stone plinth is the most practical solution, since the design does not need additional finishing. However, it is worth considering that this is the most costly way. Brick plinth masonry is more affordable. This material is environmentally friendly, has a low and good performance strength.

Facing the basement of the house is not only aesthetic. This is a reliable protection of the building from external influences. Finishing materials that will be used for sheathing the basement must have a high level of strength. Together with the plinth, its cladding will take the load that the wall structures of the building create and evenly distribute it over the foundation of the building. It must withstand pressure and protect the base from external factors such as precipitation, sunlight, humidity, temperature fluctuations.

Finishing material protects the foundation of the building from damage by mold, fungus and various types of insects. The lining of the basement is carried out in order to insulate the building. It is also necessary to protect the foundation from severe frosts, under the influence of which its strength decreases and the erosion process develops.

Leaving the surface of the plinth without sheathing will contribute to its slow destruction as a result of constant exposure to dry or liquid dirt containing aggressive chemicals and minerals.

Various options for finishing the basement of a private house, the photos clearly confirm this, turn the building into a masterpiece of design art, making it look complete and unique.

Varieties of basement structures

There are main variations of structures that are used for projects of houses with a plinth:

• protruding beyond the surface of the walls;
• flush with the building;
• sinking, relative to the wall.

Most often, when building a private house, a photo of the basement of the house clearly confirms this, using the first two options. A protruding plinth is recommended when a house is built with thin exterior walls, a warm underground is used, or a basement is provided in the building. In these cases, this type of plinth will provide the building with additional thermal insulation.

If you make the basement flush with the building, when they are used for its construction thin walls, the occurrence of dampness and the formation of condensate in the interior is inevitable. Here it is most problematic to mount thermal insulation and perform finishing.

Important! When choosing these types of plinth, you should take care of the arrangement of low tides in advance.

Falling plinth is less affected by impact precipitation. Here you can easily hide waterproofing, equip insulation and perform cladding. necessary materials which contributes to a longer service life. This type plinth is recommended for buildings without a basement. Finishing materials for the plinth will perceive the pressure of the soil, performing a supporting function, thereby maintaining the safety of the entire structure.

The procedure for finishing the basement of the house

All work on the lining of the basement structure is carried out at the final stage of production - the exterior of the building. Work is best done in warm, dry weather. The basement sheathing consists of the following steps, which are performed in a certain sequence:

1. A trench is dug 20 cm deep, 50 cm wide around the entire perimeter of the building.
2. Filling the space with gravel to provide drainage. Additionally, the trench can be strengthened using a reinforcing mesh.
3. The surface of the wall, 50-70 cm high for the future plinth, is cleaned of dirt and processed. If necessary, all irregularities are eliminated.
4. Arrangement of thermal insulation.
5. Decorative lining of the plinth.

The choice of facing material and the way it is laid depends on the design of the plinth and the method of its outflow.

Arrangement of low tides for the basement of the foundation

To protect the basement from the negative effects of precipitation, an ebb should be installed, which is fixed above the protruding part of the basement, and is a kind of delimiter between the base of the building and wall structure. One part is in contact with the wall at a certain angle, and the other hangs over the foundation, blocking it, collecting rain and melt water.

Ebb for the plinth are slats with a size of 50-400 mm. The color, size and shape of the tides should be selected depending on the finishing material of the foundation. A water-repellent structure can be made independently using waterproof materials, or you can buy ebbs for the basement of the foundation in ready-made at any hardware store.

Today, the industry produces several varieties of ebbs:

• plastic;
• metal;
• concrete;
• clinker.

The type of tide is selected based on the finishing material for the facade of the building. Most Successfully plastic ebbs combined with vinyl siding which is used for building cladding. Thanks to a wide range colors, you can choose the most suitable option. The use of concrete or clinker flashings for the plinth is preferable for buildings that are lined with natural stone or brick. Metal visors can be used with any kind of finishing material.

Varieties of ebbs

The most budget option is to use plastic ebbs made of polyvinyl chloride. The cost of the product is 50 rubles. for 1 running meter Despite the high rate of water resistance, ebbs show hypersensitivity physical impact, especially winter period when from the slightest blow they can crack and split.

Useful advice! Due to the fact that plastic ebbs have increased fragility, preference should be given to more durable and expensive products.

The most durable and durable are ebbs made of metal: steel, copper or aluminum. Installation of products is convenient and simple, and is determined by fastening metal strips to the walls of the building using self-tapping screws and dowels. When choosing this material from a wide range of types, special attention should be paid to the aesthetic appearance of the product so that it creates the completeness of the overall design of the building. The price of the product starts from 100 rubles/p.m.

Useful advice! When mounting the base sills, the strips should be overlapped one after another by at least 30 mm. To avoid damage to the protective layer of the product, which will lead to the formation of corrosion and destruction of the material, do not cut the planks.

Metal castings are made from high-quality and frost-resistant cement of the M450 brand with the addition of river sand, crushed granite and plasticizers. The solution is poured into silicone molds of various geometric parameters. The result is a flat and smooth product. These ebbs are attached to a special solution.

Ebb for the basement of the foundation, the price of which is the highest and starts from 200 rubles. for 1 running meter, these are products made of clinker tiles. This material has high strength characteristics, reliably protects the building from the negative effects of the environment and successfully emphasizes the design of the cladding.

Drain mounting technology

After choosing the ebb, you can proceed to its installation. Here, one should take into account not only the material from which the ebbs are made, but also the design features of the building. Yes, for wooden house suitable elements that will be fastened with self-tapping screws or other fasteners. Since wood has low adhesion and is afraid of dampness, the use of adhesives is impractical.

For buildings made of brick or facing stone, you can use ebbs, which will be attached using polymer or cement-adhesive solutions.

Useful advice! When using concrete or ceramic sills, their installation should be carried out simultaneously with the plinth and wall cladding.

If it is necessary to install ebbs on a building already finished with facing material, then it is better to use metal or vinyl elements.

Before installing the ebbs, it is necessary to seal the joints of the walls with the plinth. All cracks and crevices should be treated with a water-repellent mixture, or sealed with a sealant. Next, you need to use the level to mark the wall. The highest point of the base is determined and a horizontal line is drawn along which it will be mounted top part low tide. The part of the foundation that protrudes must be compared with a horizontal plane using a cement screed. The lower part of the tide will rest on it.

Important! The ebb plane relative to the wall should be located with a slope of 10-15%.

Installation of metal and plastic sills

The installation of ebbs should begin from the corner, using special corner elements, which can be purchased together with planks of the same width and color. Next, you need to finish all the protruding parts of the building structure: columns, pilasters and others.

Related article:

What materials are used for castings. Which of them is better to choose and in which case. Drainage installation.

In the upper part of the tide, holes are drilled with a drill at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. Further, the element is applied to the previously outlined line on the wall of the house and is attached to it with dowels with self-tapping screws. The lower part of the tide is attached to the concrete base of the plinth with a dowel-nails in increments of 40-50 cm. The junction of the tide with the wall should be sealed with a putty or silicone compound.

Important! During the installation of the ebb, it should be borne in mind that it should protrude 2-3 cm beyond the edge of the base, which will ensure better protection during precipitation.

After sheathing all corners and protruding elements, it is necessary to proceed with the installation of ebbs on straight sections. You need to start from one of the corners. Each next element should be overlapped on the previous one by at least 3 cm. All joints should be treated with a sealant to prevent moisture ingress.

Installation of concrete and clinker sills

Clinker and concrete outflows should be mounted at the stage of carrying out facing works the facade of the building, since fitting them in size during installation is a laborious process.

These types of ebbs are better combined with facing materials such as brick, clinker tiles, natural or. For their fastening, a special adhesive composition for ceramics and stone, which is intended for outdoor use. It is purchased in the form of a dry mix created on cement or polymer base, and with the help of water it is brought to the state of thick sour cream. The solution can be made independently using cement and building sand in a ratio of 1:3 or 1:4.

Installation of concrete and clinker sills also starts from the corner. In order to avoid difficult processing of concrete sills, they should be pre-positioned in such a way as to minimize their cutting. This can be achieved by using the right size of the seam between the elements. You can adjust the dimensions of clinker products by using a tile cutter or a grinder with a diamond cutting wheel.

An adhesive mixture is applied to the back of each element. The tide is fixed strictly along the previously outlined line. After waiting some time for the solution to set, putty or putty is applied to the joints between the casting elements. silicone sealant. After the adhesive has completely set, the walls of the building can be clad.

Foundation plinth waterproofing

The basement of the building is permanently difficult conditions. It perceives a significant load from the above-ground part of the building and is in contact with the external environment, being under the influence of moisture. To protect an important part of the house from destruction, it is necessary to provide for a number of measures, one of which is the arrangement of waterproofing of the foundation basement.

Waterproofing can be horizontal and vertical. Usually a complex of works is performed, which includes both methods. Horizontal waterproofing is performed before the walls are erected and is aimed at protecting them from moisture. However, in order to provide a complete protective package of measures, it is also necessary to perform waterproofing between the foundation and the plinth.

Vertical waterproof protection is aimed at preventing the negative impact of surface and ground water on brick or concrete. Such isolation can be external and internal. best effect has double-sided protection against moisture.

Today, pile foundations are predominantly used in the construction of buildings. Here the plinth plays not only a decorative role, but also protects the house from heat loss. Despite the fact that this element is not load-bearing and does not have a direct impact on the durability of the structure, waterproofing the basement is mandatory.

Materials for waterproofing the plinth from the outside

Coating, roll and injection compounds with a penetrating effect are widely used as materials that are used for waterproofing the basement of the foundation.

To protect the foundation from the effects of groundwater, rolled waterproofing is often used, which can be welded or pasted over. Fused insulation consists of a base in the form of fiberglass, polyester or fiberglass and applied mastic. Adhesive waterproofing is laid on the surface of the foundation using bituminous mastic, which is first applied to the rolled material and to the monolith, then the element is glued, pressed and smoothed.

The main advantage of the roll material for the base plate is its low cost and high installation speed. However, this type of waterproofing does not resist well. mechanical influences and has a short service life. It cannot be used in places of passage or junction of communications. Before installation, clean the surface from dust and dirt, and dry thoroughly.

Bitumen, polymer, bitumen-polymer mastics, binder plasters and cement coatings are used as coating waterproofing materials, which are applied to the foundation surface with a brush or roller. This type of insulation is used for water pressure up to 2.6 kgf/cm².

Useful advice! To ensure increased strength of waterproofing after the first layer of mastic, it is recommended to reinforce the surface with fiberglass, and apply subsequent layers on top of it.

The material has a low cost and can be applied to the surface of any configuration. However, it is not durable, requires preparatory work and creating additional protection against mechanical impact.

The use of injectable and penetrating formulations is latest technology construction waterproofing. The penetrating material is applied to the damp surface of the concrete base. Reacting with water, the composition turns into crystals that penetrate into the pores of the concrete, making it waterproof. The penetration depth reaches 150-250 mm.

Injection waterproofing is carried out using a liquid solution, which is injected under pressure into the cracks, pores and seams of the structure. This method can be used for waterproofing a building made of rubble and brick. The use of this waterproofing is a very time-consuming process that requires cleaning the structure to concrete or brick, and the complexity of the work itself requires the involvement experienced craftsman. In addition, such isolation is the most expensive.

Features of waterproofing a brick basement

Ceramic brick is most often used for the construction of a basement. The device of its waterproofing can be carried out by various methods.

For the construction of walls, solid red brick can be used. This construction material has already passed the factory processing, where a layer of waterproofing was previously applied to it. Therefore, using this brick for the construction of a building, external waterproofing may not be furnished. Despite the fact that the cost of this material is relatively high, these costs are offset by the fact that after laying bricks, no other work is required.

The next way to waterproof a brick basement is to use bituminous grease, which is applied in several layers in cold or hot form.

Rarely, polyurethane foam spraying is used to insulate the basement. This is due to the fact that in order to perform such a thermal protection option, it is necessary to use special equipment, certain chemical components and attract highly qualified workers. The essence of the method is that the foamed polyurethane foam is sprayed onto any surface. Expanding, it penetrates into all voids and securely adheres to the base, forming a dense coating. This material can be used not only for spraying, but also for filling individual voids and areas.

Do-it-yourself technology for insulating the basement of the foundation from the outside with foam plastic

On the preparatory stage it is necessary to prepare the surface of the foundation by cleaning it from old insulation, dirt and dust. Next, you should equip a layer of waterproofing to protect the structure from rain, ground and snow water. Any type of waterproofing is suitable for penoplex, with the exception of compounds with organic components.

Work begins with the insulation of the underground part of the foundation. For this purpose, PPS boards are attached using a specialized contact adhesive, which is applied around the perimeter of the product and in the center. The second level should be laid with a gap between the joints between the plates in relation to the lower level. After installation, all slots are filled with mounting foam.

The basement insulation layer with foam plastic requires additional protection against mechanical damage. To do this, an alkali-resistant reinforcing mesh is fixed on the plates, which is subsequently plastered with a solution with hydrophobic additives. Also, as protection, you can use wooden tongs, which are attached to the plates with dowel-nails. Wood must first be subjected to antiseptic, antifoam and hydrophobic treatment.

The final stage is the finishing of the plinth with facing materials.

Facing the basement of the house: what material is better to choose

Do-it-yourself plinth finishing various materials which reliably protect and decorate its surface. This process must be carried out before wall cladding in order to be able to hide the ebbs under the wall finishing material.

The plinth cladding material must have the following performance characteristics:

• have low thermal conductivity to avoid heat loss from the building;
• provide reliable and strong adhesion to the base;
• have a high indicator of strength and wear resistance to mechanical damage;
• have low hygroscopicity and vapor permeability to prevent moisture penetration into the foundation and wall panels.

Today, when the question is raised, how to finish the basement of a house, they use the following materials that fully meet the above requirements:

• clinker or porcelain tiles;
• natural or artificial stone;
• brick;
• PVC panels or basement siding;
• profiled sheet;
• decorative or mosaic plaster.

For plinth cladding strip foundation any finishing material can be used. But when the question arises, how to close the basement of the house on screw piles, it is worth giving preference to brickwork, siding or profiled sheet.

Before deciding how to finish the basement of the house from the outside, it is necessary to take into account some of the nuances:

• lining the base with thick material, it is necessary to install a low tide above its protruding part;
• wanting to expand the foundation, it is better to use brickwork;
• when mounting or corrugated board, you must first install a frame, the space of which can be filled with a heat insulator for additional insulation foundation;
• frame-facing technology allows you to carry out work at any time of the year.

Using plaster for plinth cladding

When the question is: how to inexpensively finish the basement of a house, the answer is obvious - use plaster. However, this option is the least durable, and also has an unaesthetic appearance. Such a lining is easily damaged by any mechanical influences and does not provide adequate protection of the base from external factors. However, this method is widely used due to its low cost. It is also acceptable in the case of building a brick base on a strip foundation.

Plastering itself is not the final stage. To protect the layer from moisture and environmental influences, acrylic, alkyd, silicone paint, water-based or oil composition should be applied to it, which in turn decorates the base. The photo of finishing the house clearly demonstrates the various options for using plaster.

Useful advice! Enamel paints are not recommended for painting the plinth. They do not pass air and are environmentally unsafe.

Often used decorative plaster, which creates the effect of a fur coat and can be colored when using a dye. The use of mosaic plaster allows you to create a multi-colored mosaic on the surface, which is due to the presence of small crumbs in the initial mixture. The presence of resin, as a binder, gives the composition increased water resistance.

To solve the question of how to make a plinth around the house with your own hands with the effect of natural stone, the use of a special silicone stamp will help, with which prints are made on the plastered surface.

In private houses, the basement finish with a profiled sheet is widely used. The material has a high moisture resistance, is resistant to temperature fluctuations, is durable, easy to process and easy to mount on wooden crate. However, corrugated board is not suitable as a finishing material for wooden buildings due to the fact that it is susceptible to corrosion under the influence of high humidity, which can lead to rotting of the wood.

Profiled sheets are often used to finish the plinth pile screw foundation where it needs to be covered for reliable weather protection.

Features of using brick for finishing the basement

One of the expensive finishing materials is brick. However, having high strength and performance characteristics, it allows you to create a strong, reliable and durable protection. This material is suitable for any type of foundation. For brickwork, slotted, hollow, hyperpressed or ceramic bricks should be used. Work begins with the arrangement of the base for masonry.

If the brick is used to build the basement itself, it does not need additional finishing. However, one has to choose quality material to solve two problems at once: utilitarian, protecting the walls of the house from external influences, and aesthetic, giving the building a decorative look. In deciding which brick is better for the foundation basement, it is necessary to give preference to red burnt brick, which is resistant to aggressive environments.

In the case of finishing the basement of a pile screw foundation with brickwork, it is necessary to install a base in the form of a strip of reinforced concrete or metal profile. Bricklaying occurs with dressing. To connect the elements, a cement-sand mortar is used. The thickness of the seams is 10-12 mm.

Facing the basement of a private house has importance Therefore, you should carefully consider the choice of material for work. It acts not only as a decorative element, but also is reliable protection the entire building from the effects of atmospheric and mechanical factors.

Isolation of the building from moisture is a very important part in any construction work, after which the building will be firmly, reliably and efficiently insulated from rain moisture and ice, and, of course, groundwater. Even more waterproofing is needed if you plan to build a room where water can easily get in. The better the waterproofing, the more durable the house will be. With good waterproofing, you will never see small insects, fungus and mold on the wall, especially in rooms that are below ground level.

Do-it-yourself waterproofing of the foundation is a procedure that is absolutely realistic to do without outside help, but we must not forget that this is a responsible job and should not be approached carelessly. You must have certain skills and abilities, and you also need to have information about all the nuances of the territory, and, of course, you need to follow safety precautions.

We will describe and explain six different options.

• Plinth processing
• Foundation slab processing
• Monolith processing
• Balcony processing

General rules for construction work

Now there are various options for strengthening the foundation:

• Okleyechnaya- pasted over with rolled material, which is treated with an adhesive composition. It can be self-adhesive, heat-on, or weldable.
• Impregnation- treated with a composition that penetrates well into the soil. It fills the capillaries in the material and creates a layer of several tens of centimeters.
• Coating- treatment with a composition that has a high resistance to moisture. For example, polymers or bituminous mastic.
• mounted- it is carried out using geomembranes with spikes made of polymers, which are assembled into a washing, moisture-proof surface.

According to these technologies, it is necessary to protect not only the foundation, but also the adjacent structures:

• Ground floor
• Basement floor and walls
• Foundation in foundation

The waterproofing layer in any building must be solid and not damaged. Preferably completely flat. Sometimes another waterproofing layer is installed from the back of the structure, which takes the brunt. This is done if there is a danger of flooding with groundwater. To avoid this problem, the building is protected with a blind area. Surface water is everywhere, so this part is installed everywhere. There are no exceptions in this case.

There is another problem. It's called groundwater. They are not always located on the same level with the foundation on the plots. The question is where they are and how deep. If they are higher than the foundation, then in addition to waterproofing, drainage work must also be carried out. This procedure is necessary so that the water is as far away from the building as possible. It also lowers the groundwater level and thereby lowers the pressure on the base of the building. Without drainage, this cannot be achieved. Regardless of the above, one must also take into account chemical composition water. In some areas, one has to deal with harmful groundwater. This water is harmful to. Based on this, all materials must withstand aggressive environments.

Plinth processing

outer side ground floor definitely protect. Sometimes even to the level of the first floor. This is done because frost sometimes remains on the blind area. Based on this, in addition to all the work, the plinth needs to be lined with frost-resistant and moisture-resistant finishing materials. Do not forget! If you use high-quality products, follow the technology, don't be lazy - this will be the key to the longevity of your home!

The basement continues the foundation of the wall. The basement is the top of the foundation, it is above ground level, about 2m. But in some cases, a floor can be quite high off the ground and create another floor that is half underground and half inside.

Given that the plinth continues the foundation, more time should be devoted to insulating them. You must not allow the outside to get wet and the capillary moisture to pass down. We must not forget that moisture can rise to the second floor from various factors. Moisture evaporates from the wall, so dampness can be on two floors. Therefore, make reliable isolation!

There is another option for finishing the base - vertical insulation. The point of this isolation is that the whole system works as a whole. For this, liquid waterproofing is most often used. With the help of molten rubber, you can get a water-repellent coating from a monolith without seams. This material is very easy to apply, works great in tandem with other materials. Therefore, it can be used for both brick and concrete (monolithic or block)

Foundation slab processing

To install it, you need to dig a pit. After the measures taken, the block is laid on well-trodden sand and gravel. The thickness of this embankment is approximately 35 cm, the thickness of the block is from 25 to 45 cm. This foundation can be from a monolith or prefabricated. If you have a monolith, then pour the formwork with concrete in advance installed frame from fittings. In another case, the base is made from ready-made reinforced concrete structures, for example, road slabs. With any installation option, you must know that the ground water must be removed without fail!

Block isolation is solved in several ways. Each option has its own advantages and disadvantages. Now they mainly use the coating option. This type is very easy, after the work you will get the best result and durable material. The biggest problem in finishing a block foundation is the insulation of the slab at the bottom, because it has a large area. In this case, the work is carried out by wrapping with a roll or coating. A few years ago, roofing material was used in construction. In this variant, bitumen was applied to a cardboard base. This method was short-lived, because the paper base quickly deteriorated. The material easily bent, also could not stand sudden changes temperature and ultraviolet. The bitumen used earlier in its production also did not differ in strength. As a result, everything quickly cracked, and the waterproofing barrier lost its tightness. Modern materials such as rubemast and stekloizol are made using fiberglass or fiberglass. They are much stronger than their older counterparts. Now bitumen contains modified additives. Because of this, it has become elastic, flexible, and can withstand any temperature.

Monolith processing

You can achieve the desired result in different ways:

• Coating with mastic– Suitable for those who do not want to spend a lot of money. This option is very cheap. Although it only lasts for a short time. Such waterproofing during use quickly deteriorates, leaks, as it does not withstand heavy loads. But the main condition is that it can be used only if you have absolutely dry and flat surface. You should definitely know that coating waterproofing even in the initial stages, it is damaged when construction debris remains, for example, such as stone and glass. From the side of the street, it must be insulated with rolled geotextiles or a pressure brick wall. But this option is quite expensive and takes a lot of effort.
• Spray treatment– Very easy to apply thanks to the handy sprayer. The method is good because it exactly repeats all the irregularities of the foundation. There is almost no need to pre-prepare the surface. This technology is more expensive than others. When using this technology, mandatory reinforcement with geotextile material is required, which provides additional protection.

Processing the foundation of the constituent parts

This object is most often processed together with the grillage. It is extremely difficult to waterproof the components, because it takes too much time and effort to process. The wooden foundation is impregnated and treated with a protective solution before installation. But do not forget, when you install a wooden foundation, it is not recommended to do drainage to divert water, as wooden poles that are pre-treated do not rot in water, but only gain stability. What you need!

And finally, the final stage of manufacturing the strip foundation. First you need to remove the formwork and carry out the final processing. So, you can understand that the foundation has hardened well by the appearance of cracks or small cracks between it. When the board moves away from the top of the foundation, it means that it drives away water, which is a good sign. After that, remove the formwork. First you need to remove the auxiliary parts. Then you need to pull out all the pins and bars. Then, using a hammer, tap the boundaries of the foundation. Do not forget that the foundation is not completely dry yet, it is very easy to damage it!

Balcony processing

In a modern metropolis, almost every building has a balcony. The base is usually iron. concrete block exposed to aggressive environment. And of course, someday it will lead to destruction. And no one needs such consequences as dampness and the appearance of mold. Over time, all problems from the balcony smoothly "swim" into the apartment. This happens when water seeps through the capillaries of the concrete slab.

The main problem is that outdoors in winter subzero temperature. When water freezes on the balcony under a lot of moisture, it expands and bursts, destroying the slab on the balcony with its actions. Judging by the construction standards, the surface of the balcony should have a bevel of 2-3 degrees. But in reality, builders often do not comply with this. Moreover, there are cases when there is a reverse bias. Because of this rainwater, which enters the balcony, does not drain from it, but lingers and sometimes even flows towards the apartment, thereby destroying the concrete surface. Thanks to this, the stove is not enough even for several seasons! The open balcony cannot be fenced off from low temperatures. But if you can not fence off, then you can prevent! Namely, it is necessary to prevent the ingress of water into the concrete.

The best solution to this problem is waterproofing using bitumen. Before you start correcting this error, you need to determine the slope of the block and, if necessary, cover it with a cement screed in order to get a slope of 2-3 degrees. Pay more attention to cracks and joints that have already appeared (which are in contact with the wall with a parapet, metal bars). If they are not removed, the chips will only get bigger! These places must be carefully glued with fiberglass.

Waterproofing works on the balcony in the most extreme conditions compared to other uses of this material. But the waterproofing of the loggia is done only if it is completely glazed. This procedure is carried out with waterproofing of the vertical partition (made of brick or concrete). Of course, the work must be carried out with high quality, or you will not get the desired result. In order to have a good result, you need to install not only a double-glazed window, but also seal the seam and the outer cornice very well. But first, you need to prepare the surface.

To do this, you need to dismantle the coating, remove dirty areas with a perforator. After that, the concrete must be cleaned with a stiff brush from construction debris. If the reinforcement sticks out, rust must be removed from it, and then applied protective compound. After these procedures, the concrete block is restored using special compositions for quick repair. Therefore, we advise you to choose the highest quality materials and spare no effort otherwise your efforts will not be justified. And remember, the miser pays twice!!!

So we've come to the end. We wish you a quick construction, and not a hundred-year-old "epopee", so that everything works out for you the first time and high-quality waterproofing for you!

How to protect concrete from moisture? In this article, we will analyze several popular solutions that are applicable both for waterproofing foundations and basements, and for protecting capital walls from precipitation and seasonal fluctuations in humidity.

Our goal is to give concrete hydrophobic properties.

Classification

All waterproofing materials are divided into three main categories.

Useful: roll and coating materials are usually applied from that side of the foundation or building envelope, with which there is excess static water pressure. Otherwise, there is always a risk of delamination of the protective layer, violation of its integrity. Penetrating waterproofing is devoid of this limitation.

Obviously, we are most interested in the last category of waterproofing. It is with her that we will get to know each other better.

Possible Solutions

Ironing

The simplest and most cheap surface treatment (applying cement laitance on it). Cement penetrates into pores and microcracks, completely or partially blocking them. Of course, such waterproofing is not enough for the foundation; and here is iron cement plaster facade will significantly reduce the absorption of water.

Liquid glass

If you add sodium liquid glass (aqueous solution of Na2O (SiO2)) to the cement-sand mortar in a ratio of approximately 1:10, you will get moisture-resistant concrete with a very short (no more than half an hour) setting period. This recipe is often used to seal sewer and water wells, block foundations and cracks in basement floors.

In the photo - domestically produced sodium liquid glass.

Processing with liquid glass is quite capable of reliably waterproofing the surface of a finished reinforced concrete product. It is more than easy to do this work with your own hands: the material diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 1 is applied to concrete with a brush, roller or sprayer.

Hint: undiluted liquid glass, applied in one layer, penetrates concrete by an average of 2 millimeters. If the treatment is carried out with an aqueous solution and in several steps, the impregnation depth will increase to 15-20 mm.

Water repellents

How to treat aerated concrete from moisture if it is used for construction external walls residential building?

In this case, silicone-based water-repellent primers will come to the rescue. The instructions for their use are also extremely simple: ready-to-use or diluted with water in the concentration indicated by the manufacturer, the composition is applied to the surface of the facade in two or three layers without prior drying.

Protection of aerated concrete from moisture with the help of a hydrophobizing solution solves several problems at once.

To clarify: silicone-based water repellents are intended not only for aerated concrete. They can process all porous materials: heavy concrete, limestone, plaster, etc.

The composition is applied to a dry base. A moisture meter for concrete will help to assess the moisture level of the structure - simple electrical device, measuring resistivity surface area.

The average price of Russian-made water repellents is 150 rubles per kilogram. The only drawback of the solution is the limited adhesive qualities of the facade after processing: it can be painted only after six months.

Crystallizing compounds

Penetron, Crystallisol and their numerous analogues differ from the solutions listed above by the principle of operation: in simple terms, they do not transport material to fill pores through capillaries from the surface, but create it in place ().

Chemical additives cause accelerated crystallization of calcium salts (the main component of Portland cements) upon contact with water. Crystals reliably fill concrete pores.

What is the result?

• The most obvious result is the impossibility of moisture penetration into the thickness of concrete when outdoor processing designs. If the basement walls are treated with the same Penetron from the inside, groundwater will no longer find its way into the room: the impregnation penetrates the concrete by 40-60 centimeters.
• About efflorescence and mold, of course, you can also forget. Moisture is necessary for their appearance.
• Frost resistance of concrete increases by an average of 100 cycles. On the practical side, this means an increase in the service life of the main walls by 150-200 years.
• Finally, impregnation for concrete from moisture increases its compressive strength: the absence of pores prevents the material from crumbling under load.

Curiously, Penetron and its analogues provide a kind of self-healing waterproofing. Where water begins to penetrate into concrete through new cracks and pores, the growth of calcium salt crystals immediately resumes. What is especially pleasing is that waterproofing measures can be carried out with damp walls or foundations.

Where do new cracks come from? concrete structures? The main reasons are movements and frost heaving of soils, as well as installation work. When perforating technological holes and openings, shock vibration is destructive for concrete.

What to do?

1. In the first case, the problem is solved by reinforced reinforcement of structures. The foundation, connected by reinforcement into a single rigid frame, will not be deformed by any movement of the soil.
2. In the second - the use of less destructive methods of conducting work. So, cutting reinforced concrete diamond circles, and reinforcement - with a gas cutter or an ordinary abrasive wheel - is much less destructive than using a jackhammer. Diamond drilling holes in concrete is much more preferable than working with a hammer drill.

Conclusion

As part of a short review, we have listed only a small part possible solutions. As usual, the video in this article will offer the reader additional information ().

A distinctive feature of the tape type foundation lies in its very name. It is a closed circuit - a "tape" (a reinforced concrete strip laid under bearing walls). Through the use of a strip foundation, the resistance to the forces of heaving soil increases, while the risk of warping or subsidence of the building is minimized.

Strip foundation - photo of a freshly poured structure

It is this foundation that is built on dry or heaving soils. And what more weight future design, the deeper the foundation is laid (sometimes even up to 3 m, depending on the depth of soil freezing and the level of groundwater).

These and other characteristics are regulated by GOST 13580-85 and SNiP 2.02.01.83.

GOST 13580-85. REINFORCED CONCRETE PLATES OF BELT FOUNDATIONS. Specifications. Download file

SNiP 2.02.01-83. FOUNDATIONS OF BUILDINGS AND STRUCTURES. Download file

During construction, special attention is paid to waterproofing, since the strength, quality and durability of the structure will depend on it. In the absence of protection, groundwater and precipitation can significantly damage concrete, and the consequences can be the most dire - from permanent dampness to subsidence and cracking of walls. For this reason, do-it-yourself waterproofing of the strip foundation is one of the most critical stages.

Waterproofed foundation - photo

Below is the average depth of soil freezing in different regions. If your region is not in the table, then you need to focus on the one that is closest to the others.

Regardless of the chosen method of isolation (they will be discussed a little later), a number of technical requirements must be followed in the work.

1. Be sure to take into account the level of groundwater, because the type of insulation depends on it.
2. It is also necessary to take into account the conditions for the future operation of the facility (if, for example, a warehouse is being built, then the requirements for waterproofing will be more stringent).
3. It is also necessary to remember about the possibility of flooding during large floods or precipitation (this applies in particular to loose soil).
4. The force of "swelling" of the soil during frost also plays an important role (during defrosting / freezing, the structure and volume of water change, which can lead not only to the rise of the soil, but also to the destruction of the foundation).

The main methods of waterproofing

Waterproofing can be of two types - vertical and horizontal. Let's consider each of the options.

Important information! When constructing the foundation, you do not need to save money and abandon the sand "cushion". Sand is needed not only to prevent leakage of concrete, but also to prevent washing out of the structure.

It is performed even during the construction of the foundation, and additional time (15-17 days) may be required for preparations. The main function of such insulation is to protect the base in horizontal plane(mainly from capillary groundwater). An important component of horizontal waterproofing is the drainage system, which is equipped with a high level of groundwater.

It is worth noting that under the "tape" there should be a sufficiently strong base, on top of which a waterproofing layer will be laid. Often, a “cushion” of a slightly larger width is cast for this than that of the future foundation. In the absence of a need for high quality(for example, if the foundation is being built for a bath) it is enough to prepare a screed of sand and cement in a ratio of 2: 1. In Soviet times, asphalt screed was made, but today this technology is practically not used.

The horizontal waterproofing procedure consists of several stages.

Stage 1. The bottom of the pit, dug under the base, is covered with a sandy "cushion" about 20-30 cm thick (clay can be used instead of sand) and carefully compacted.

Stage 3. When the screed dries (it takes about 12-14 days), it is covered with bituminous mastic and a layer of roofing material is fixed. Then the procedure is repeated: applying mastic - fastening the roofing material. On top of the second layer, another screed of the same thickness is poured.

Stage 4. When the concrete hardens, the construction of the foundation itself begins, the surfaces of which are additionally covered with vertical types of waterproofing (they will be discussed later).

Important information! If the building will be built from a log house, then it is necessary to waterproof the top of the foundation as well, since the first crown will be installed there. Otherwise, the wood may rot.

Drainage

Drainage may be required in two cases:

• if the permeability of the soil is low and water accumulates rather than being absorbed by it;
• if the depth of the foundation is lower or corresponds to the depth of the groundwater.

The algorithm of actions for the arrangement of the drainage system should be as follows.

Stage 1. Along the perimeter of the structure - about 80-100 cm from the foundation - a small pit 25-30 cm wide is dug. The depth should exceed the depth of pouring the base by 20-25 cm. It is important that the pit has a slight slope in the direction of the water collector, where water will accumulate.

Stage 2. The bottom is covered with geotextile, while the edges of the material must be wrapped on the walls by at least 60 cm. After that, a 5-centimeter layer of gravel is poured.

Stage 3. A special drainage pipe is installed on top with a slope towards the water collector of 0.5 cm / 1 linear meter. m.

Laying pipes on geotextiles and backfilling crushed stone

Thanks to this design, water will flow into drainage pipe, while it (pipe) will not clog. Moisture will be discharged into the water collector (it can be a well or a pit, and the dimensions depend on the inflow of water and are determined on an individual basis).

Prices for a drainage well

drainage well

Vertical waterproofing

Vertical type insulation is the processing of the walls of the finished foundation. There are several ways to protect the base, which are possible both during the construction of the building and after construction.

Table. Strengths and weaknesses of the most popular waterproofing options

Inexpensive and simple, and therefore the most popular way to waterproof the foundation. It implies complete processing with bituminous mastic, penetrating into all cracks and voids and preventing moisture from entering the house.

Important information! When choosing one or another bituminous mastic, pay attention to the marking - this will help you find out the heat resistance of the material. For example, mastic marked MBK-G-65 has a heat resistance (for five hours) of 65°C, and MBK-G-100 - 100°C, respectively.

Advantages of bituminous mastic:

• ease of use (can be done alone);
• affordable cost;
• elasticity.

Flaws:

• low speed of work (requires the application of several layers, which takes a lot of time);
• not the best water resistance (even high-quality application does not guarantee 100% protection);
• fragility (in 10 years you will have to re-treat the foundation).

The process of applying mastic is extremely simple and consists of several stages.

Stage 1. Surface preparation. Below are the basic requirements.

1. The surface of the foundation must be solid, with chamfered or rounded (ø40-50 mm) edges and corners. Fillets are made at the transition points of the vertical to the horizontal - so the joined surfaces will be mated more smoothly.
2. For bitumen, sharp protrusions are extremely dangerous, appearing where the formwork elements are joined. These protrusions are removed.
3. Concrete areas covered with shells from air bubbles are rubbed with fine-grained cement mortar based on dry building mix. Otherwise, bubbles will appear in the freshly applied mastic, which will burst 10 minutes after application.

Also, dirt and dust should be removed from the surface, and then dried thoroughly.

Important information! Substrate moisture is very important indicator and should not exceed 4%. With more high rate the mastic will swell or begin to flake off.

Testing the base for moisture is quite simple: you need to lay a piece of PE film measuring 1x1 m on the concrete surface. And if there is no condensation on the film in a day, then you can safely proceed to further work.

Stage 2. In order to increase adhesion, the prepared base is primed with a bituminous primer.

You can go the other way and prepare a bitumen primer yourself. To do this, BN70/30 grade bitumen must be diluted with a rapidly evaporating solvent (for example, gasoline) in a ratio of 1:3.

One layer of primer is applied over the entire surface, two at the junction. This can be done with either a brush or a roller. After the primer dries, the actual mastic is applied.

Stage 3. The bitumen bar is broken into small pieces and melted in a bucket over a fire.

It is recommended to add a small amount of “mining” there during heating. Then liquid bitumen is applied in 3-4 layers. It is important that the material does not cool down in the container, because with one more heating, it partially loses its properties.

The total thickness of the waterproofing layer depends on the depth of the base pour (see table).

Table. The ratio of the thickness of the bitumen layer to the depth of the foundation

Stage 4. After drying, the bitumen should be protected, since it can be damaged when backfilled with soil containing debris. To do this, you can use rolled geotextiles or EPPS insulation.

Prices for bituminous mastic

bituminous mastic

Video - Insulation of the EPPS foundation

Reinforcement

Bituminous insulation needs reinforcement on:

• cold seams;
• junction of surfaces;
• cracks in concrete, etc.

Often, fiberglass and fiberglass are used for reinforcement.

The fiberglass material must be sunk into the first layer of bitumen and rolled with a roller - this will provide a tighter abutment. As soon as the mastic dries, the next layer is applied. It is important that the fiberglass material is laid with an overlap of 10 cm on both sides.

Reinforcement will provide a more uniform distribution of the load on the entire insulating strip, minimize bitumen elongation in the places of cracks and, as a result, significantly extend the service life.

fiberglass prices

fiberglass

It can serve as both the main protection and addition to the applied bituminous mastic. Usually ruberoid is used for this.

Among the advantages of the method should be highlighted:

• low cost;
• availability;
• good service life (about 50 years).

As for the shortcomings, this can only be attributed to the fact that one cannot cope with the work alone. The algorithm of actions should be as follows.

Stage 1.

Unlike the previous method, there is no need to carefully apply the material, since the mastic is needed solely for attaching the rolled waterproofing to the base.

Stage 2. Using a burner, the roofing material is slightly heated from below, after which it is superimposed on a layer of hot bitumen. Sheets of roofing material are joined with an overlap of 10-15 cm, all joints are processed with a burner.

Stage 3. After fixing the roofing material, you can fill up the foundation, because additional protection is not required here.

Important information! Roofing material can be replaced with more modern materials that are welded to the base. These can be polymer films or canvases with bitumen-polymer coating (for example, Izoelast, Technoelast, etc.).

Prices for roofing material

ruberoid

Video - Waterproofing with roofing material

This method is extremely simple to perform and is used for waterproofing and leveling the foundation surface. Here advantages of plaster waterproofing:

• simplicity;
• high speed of work;
• affordable cost of materials.

Flaws:

• low water resistance;
• short service life (about 15 years);
• possible cracks.

There is nothing complicated in the application process. First, with the help of dowels, a putty mesh is attached to the foundation, then it is prepared plaster mix with waterproof components. The mixture is applied to the foundation with a spatula. After the plaster has dried, the soil is poured.

In fact, this is a dispersion of polymer-modified bitumen particles in water. The composition is sprayed onto the base, providing high-quality waterproofing. Advantages this method are as follows:

• high quality waterproofing;
• no need for special skills;
• durability.

But there is also limitations:

• high cost of the composition;
• low speed of operation in the absence of a sprayer.

In addition, liquid rubber is not available everywhere. For the foundation, the same type of composition, which can be of two types, is quite suitable.

1. Elastomix - applied in 1 layer, hardens for about 2 hours. Further storage after opening the package is not subject to.
2. Elastopaz - more cheap option, however, it is already applied in 2 layers. What is characteristic, Elastopaz is subject to storage even after opening the package.

Stage 1. The surface is cleaned of dirt and debris.

Stage 2. The foundation is covered with a special primer. Alternatively, a mixture of liquid rubber and water (1:1 ratio) can be used.

Stage 3. After an hour, when the primer dries, a waterproofing material is applied (one or two layers, depending on the type of composition). It is advisable to use a sprayer for this, but you can use a roller or brush instead.

liquid rubber prices

liquid rubber

Video - Processing the base with liquid rubber

Penetrating insulation

On the base, previously cleaned of dirt and slightly moistened with water, a special mixture (Penetron, Aquatro, etc.) is applied with a sprayer, penetrating into the structure by about 150 mm. It is important that the solution is applied in two or three layers.

Main Benefits:

• effective protection;
• the possibility of processing surfaces inside the building;
• ease of operation;
• long operational period.

Flaws:

• low prevalence of such solutions;
• high price.

Making a clay castle

A simple, but at the same time effective way to protect the base from moisture. First, a foundation pit is dug around the foundation with a depth of 0.5-0.6 m, then the bottom is covered with a 5-centimeter gravel or crushed stone "cushion". After that, clay is poured in several stages (each layer is carefully compacted). The clay itself will act as a buffer against moisture.

The only advantage of the method is the ease of implementation.

Clay castle is suitable only for wells and household facilities. If, for example, we are talking about a residential building, then this method can only be used as an addition to the already existing waterproofing.

This method of protecting the base appeared relatively recently and is as follows: mats filled with clay are nailed to the cleaned surface of the foundation using a mounting gun or dowels. The laying of mats should overlap, by about 12-15 cm. Sometimes special clay concrete panels are used instead of mats, in which case the joints must be further processed.

Overlap - photo

In principle, screen insulation is an improved version of a clay castle, therefore it can only be used for household structures.

Summing up. Which option to choose?

The optimal option for waterproofing a strip foundation should include both horizontal and vertical waterproofing. If, for one reason or another, horizontal insulation was not laid during construction, it is better to resort to bituminous mastic or special plaster. But, we repeat, it will be most effective only in combination with horizontal type protection.

Waterproofing is one of the most critical stages in the construction of a building. Properly performed insulation work guarantees the protection of the foundation of the house from moisture and other environmental factors. It is no secret that at the time of pouring concrete, the mixture leaks. The substance reacts to groundwater, which leads to a weakening of the foundation, moisture ingress into the walls of the house and the formation of cracks in them. The choice of materials that can be used to process the foundation is quite wide today.

Waterproofing rules

Each process that accompanies the construction has its own characteristics. If they are neglected, then you can spoil the whole plan and get unpleasant consequences. Let's analyze important points requiring heightened attention when performing actions aimed at protecting the basement of your home from moisture.

1. To understand what type of insulation is suitable for your home, you need to establish the level of groundwater.
2. If you create your foundation on loose soils, then possible flooding or floods due to heavy rainfall should be prevented.
3. Pay attention to the factor that the soil tends to swell. This phenomenon occurs due to the constant change in weather conditions and the ability of water to expand or contract during the processes of freezing in winter and thawing in spring. Thus, the structure of the water changes, which causes deformation of the foundation.
4. Consider the conditions under which the building will be used. If you are building an object for commercial purposes, for example, warehouses, then you need to choose the best level of waterproofing.

Waterproofing the foundation of a wooden house

So, what are the difficulties you may encounter when building your own home? If your choice fell on the construction of a wooden house, then experts recommend using horizontal waterproofing to protect against moisture even during the preparatory work. The drainage system is directly related to horizontal waterproofing and must be applied where it exists. high level ground water.

If we talk about the specifics of the preparation, then it is carried out in stages: First of all, a foundation pit is pulled out under the house, clay is poured onto its bottom (a layer of about 20-30 centimeters), given layer carefully compacted. A layer of concrete substance - screeds (about 5-7 centimeters) is laid on top of the clay. Concrete hardening occurs after ten days, after which it is possible to start processing the foundation with bituminous mastic and laying the first layer of roofing material.

Further, in the process of creating a wooden house, the algorithm will be repeated: a layer of roofing material on the treated surface of the foundation with bituminous mastic. It is important not to forget (especially in houses where there is a plinth) about protecting the top layer of the base of a wooden house, because a wooden object will put pressure on it.

Horizontal waterproofing

Horizontal waterproofing of the foundation is needed to prevent moisture from entering. The foundation is made of porous materials, so it absorbs water. If a wet surface frozen, there is a risk of cracking. Wet foundation promotes mold and mildew growth. If you properly insulate against moisture horizontally, you can prevent Negative consequences from moisture penetration.

Types of waterproofing:

• rolled, produced before the construction of walls by gluing or floating on a prepared surface;
• impregnating, is done during the construction of the building or its direct operation.

Gluing waterproofing

For execution pasting waterproofing you need a device that aligns the screeds. It is made from a mixture of sand, concrete and a special filler. Insulation material - rolled, based on polymers or bitumen.

How is waterproofing done?

• the surface is leveled with a screed, to which additives are added to increase moisture resistance;
• a primer based on bitumen or water is applied to the screed. After the primer dries, mastic is applied;
• if rolled material is selected, then it is laid on the mastic before it dries. When the material has an adhesive layer, it is better to lay it after the mastic has dried. For floating insulation, a propane torch is needed to heat the material and roll it over the surface;
• materials are applied in several layers;
• for a room with a basement, waterproofing is applied under the sole of the foundation - in the place where the base ends. If the building is without a basement, waterproofing the foundation from the walls is sufficient.

Penetrating horizontal foundation waterproofing

Coating penetrating insulation against moisture is made from a solution of cement and chemical activators. The solution crystallizes upon interaction with the concrete surface and forms a moisture-proof layer.

How is coating waterproofing done:

• the foundation is cleaned, pollution is removed;
• cement mortar is mixed with water, chemical activators and filler;
• moisten the concrete surface;
• cement mortar is applied;
• leave the surface for 2-3 days - until the solution dries completely.

Foundation injection waterproofing

Injection waterproofing is the saturation of the foundation with a gel solution through special holes. The solution penetrates to a depth of 0.5 meters, upon contact with water, it swells and closes the holes so that moisture does not penetrate the foundation.

How to make injection waterproofing:

• from the inside, the surface is cleaned of dirt;
• the number of holes and their placement is calculated. The location is chosen such that it turns out to pour a continuous layer of mortar under the foundation;
• holes are drilled at an angle, then inserted special nozzles for pouring the solution;
• polymer gel is pumped into the holes with low pressure pumps;
• take out the nozzles and close the holes with cement.

Horizontal waterproofing of all kinds is highly effective, but for maximum protection, vertical moisture insulation should also be done.

Vertical waterproofing

Vertical waterproofing is a method of dealing with high humidity, in which the walls of the base of the building and the basement are strengthened. It is possible both at the stage of construction of the object, and during the preparation for construction.

Vertical waterproofing is made with outside the base of the building and is applied to the level of the sidewalk or blind area. There are several types of vertical waterproofing.

Bituminous waterproofing

Usage bituminous waterproofing considered the easiest and most affordable way. The bottom line is that contractors process the foundation with bituminous mastic, as a result of which the substance penetrates into all cracks and gaps, filling them. This feature of bituminous mastic contributes to protection from moisture, and, therefore, the strength of the base of a wooden house is ensured.

If you bought a bituminous bar, you should melt it to a liquid consistency in a container, after which you need to apply the mixture in several layers (from two to four). It is important to remember that the surface must be treated with melted bituminous mastic at a time, because repeated heating of the substance will lead to the loss of useful properties.

• ease of use;
• availability of building material;
• low cost.

• not very high level of waterproofing;
• relatively short service life of mastic - up to 15 years.

Roll waterproofing

Roll waterproofing of a wooden house with the help of roofing felt is the application of a layer of one of its types: techno- or isoelast. This method can exist both independently and as a supplement to the previous type of insulation. The process of installing protection is very similar to laying a roof. You need to take a special burner, heat the roofing material and overlap it on the base, already treated with bituminous mixture. The joints of the roofing material are also heated and fixed.

• long service life - up to 50 years;
• acceptable price.

Minus - a rather difficult process for self-fulfillment.

Waterproofing with plaster

Waterproofing with plaster involves the creation of a homogeneous mixture to strengthen a wooden house from the plaster itself, with the addition of components that are resistant to any level of moisture. The plinth is impregnated by applying the substance with a spatula to the walls of the foundation. Such a composition not only protects against groundwater ingress, but also levels the very foundation of the object.

• low cost of materials;
• ease of application of waterproofing.

• short service life - up to 15 years;
• the possibility of cracking over time;
• insufficiently high level of protection against moisture.

Liquid rubber

If you decide to use it, then the base will be reliably protected, because it is perfectly sprayed and serves your family for a long time. Before applying the substance, the foundation and the plinth should be treated with a special primer.

There are two types of liquid rubber - elastomix and elastopaz. The first type is applied in one layer and hardens within a few hours. After opening the container with the mixture, the substance will no longer be stored for a long time, it must be completely used before setting. As for the second type, the mixture can be applied in two dense layers, and the remains will be stored in the container for some time.

Foundation protection - very milestone when building a house, since the further operation of the building will depend on how it is done. If everything is done correctly, then the house will stand for many years.

Trust me, these are just a few tips on how to protect your basement and foundation. Experts will help determine already during the period initial training, what type of moisture insulation is best for the base of your home.