In the process of installing wires, one of the most critical stages of work is the removal of insulation. No matter aluminum wire, copper, enameled or plastic insulated, each separate case it is necessary to follow the technology when cleaning it. If you ignore the recommendations and tips on how to strip the wire, then specifications manufactured electrical system will be low. Consider several techniques for stripping insulation from a variety of coated wires.
Structural features of wires
Wires are of two types:
- Single core.
- Stranded.
Single-core means a wire in which the cross section is formed by one core or wiring. As for stranded wires, the cross section of such a wire is formed by several thin wires, which in some cases are intertwined. To stranded wire was resilient and elastic, a thread is added to the structure, which resembles nylon. Taking into account these features, the technology for stripping insulation in each individual case may differ.
Stripping with a knife
When removing the insulation with a knife, it is impossible to cut the wire in a circle with a blade in a perpendicular position - a notch of the copper core may form. As a result, with a slight bend, the wire will easily and quickly break in this particular place, especially if you undertook to strip the wire with a thickness of 0.6–0.8 mm. After a few bends, the wire breaks completely. When stripping the wire with a knife, the blade should be almost in the same plane with the axis of the wire. Pre-insulation is cut along the core. The insulation cut along the length is laid aside and simply cut off.
With this option for stripping, it is important to be careful, as you can easily injure your hands.
Using side cutters
A tool such as side cutters is often used incorrectly. The tool is taken in hand as it should, absolutely no attention is paid to the direction of the cutting edges. If you use the side cutters incorrectly, you will have to make great efforts. In addition, in this case there is a high risk of breaking off the wire along with the insulation.
It is important to cutting edges were directed in the direction opposite to the movement of the tool. With this option, the blade will cut into the insulation even with little effort. As a result, the tube insulation is removed from the surface of the core without damaging it.
Reflow method
If you have a soldering iron, you can quickly remove the insulation by thermal method. To do this, heat up the soldering iron tip and run lightly over the plastic insulation. After heating, the plastic will melt and be removed. This method does not violate the conductor in any way. If you need to clean a large number of wires with such a winding, it is recommended to use a special tool. For example, a special wood burner, which was previously known as "Pattern", would be suitable.
The reflow method is most effective if your wiring is old. After a long service life, the plastic winding on the wire becomes hard and brittle. Especially if from junction box the wire peeps out two or three centimeters, neither wire cutters nor a knife can cope with it. And if you use a lighter or crawl with a soldering iron, then you can strip the wire.
And if enameled wire
If the conductor has a thickness of 0.2 mm, then the best option will be mechanical method removal of insulation. For this, a knife or sandpaper is used to scrape off the insulation.
- To process a cable that has thin insulation, you can use sandpaper small section. Bend it in half with sandpaper inward. Then wind the cable into a bent sheet of emery and, lightly pressing your fingers, pull the wire. This procedure should be continued until the enamel is cleaned.
- If a knife is used, it is necessary to put a part of the cable on solid foundation. Then it is necessary to rotate it in a circle until the enamel is scraped off the surface of the conductor.
If the conductor is even thinner and has a diameter of less than 0.2 millimeters, then the mechanical method will not be effective. This is due to the fact that the enamel will not be removed as a result, and the wire itself may break. In this case, you can master the thermochemical method using a soldering iron and vinyl chloride insulation. To begin with, heat the soldering iron, then put the vinyl chloride on the table, and lead the wire over it with a soldering iron. Under the influence of high temperature, chlorine is produced, which will clean the wire from the enamel.
In most cases, such wires are used in radio communications, and it is he who is wound on inductive coils. It also has a name - littsendrat. In its appearance, it is distinguished by the presence of a large number of thin wires, which are twisted into one conductor and at the same time covered with enamel.
No less interesting is another option for removing enameled insulation from the wire. You will need to buy aspirin tablets. A wire is laid on them and a heated tip of a soldering iron is similarly passed along it. As a result, the wire is exposed and plus everything else and tinned.
Removal of PTFE insulation
Fluoroplastic is a polymer that is produced chemical method. He has next positive characteristics, for example, does not get wet from water and is highly resistant to organic matter. Its technical characteristics allow it to withstand temperatures up to 300 ° C! as insulation is ideal option but the main drawback high price. In this regard, it is used in special cases. In everyday life, it is applicable to many radio amateurs, since after soldering it has an aesthetic appearance, takes up little space and does not melt.
The material itself has the form of a thin narrow ribbon. She, in turn, is tightly wound on a twisted stranded wire. It is possible to clean such insulation only with a knife. The PTFE is scraped off to the desired length. As soon as the wire is exposed, the insulation is taken to the desired length, and the remaining fluoroplastic is cut off.
Insulation from fabric, rubber is cleaned by any of the above methods. The main thing is to prevent notches of the main core!
All of the above methods are manual. They require more time and attention, not to mention experience when it comes to stranded wires with a small section. If you work in this area, and you regularly need to strip wires from insulation, then it is best to partially automate this process. For this, pliers were specially developed, or they are also called a stripper.
With the help of a stripper, the insulation is removed with one touch of the palm of your hand. Consider how to strip wires using the WS-04 stripper.
Specifications of stripper WS-04:
- It is possible to remove the insulation and cut wires Ø0.5–2.7 mm with a cross section from 0.2 to 6.0 mm 2 without prior adjustment.
- When adjusting the microscopic screw, you can strip the insulation from a thin wire ranging in size from 0.25 to 0.5 mm.
- The stripper allows you to crimp on wires connectors without insulation, insulated or automotive wires for double clamp 0.8-2.7 mm.
In appearance, the stripper resembles pincers, at the end of which there is a cam lever. The upper jaws are movable, while the lower ones are fixed. The left pair is used to clamp the wire, and the right pair is used to remove and cut the insulation. At the first reduction of the handles, the left cam clamps the wire, and the right cam cuts its sharp edge into the insulation. With the constant reduction of the levers, the insulation is gradually removed from the wire. The process of stripping the wire with a stripper takes a few seconds.
Process consistent work stripper model WS-04 with solid, stranded and two-wire wire:
- The wire runs between cutting knives, which are located on inside pens. Then they should be brought together. The result is a cut of the end of the wire without deformation. To compare the cut with wire cutters, the end is always flattened and slightly pointed.
- At the next stage, one end of the wire is wound between the movable and fixed sponge. After squeezing the handles, the insulation is removed. With such work, no notches are observed on the conductor.
- To adjust the exact length of the stripped insulation, you can use the blue movable limiter.
- On a two-core wire, the insulation is removed with a stripper in two passes.
- From the first run, the PVC tube is removed.
- At the second stage, insulation is simultaneously removed from two wires.
The operation time can take no more than 5 seconds!
Among other things, the stripper can also be used to strip the insulation of a telephone cable before pressing it into an RJ-11 connector. If a screw connection is used, then with just one movement, the insulation is removed from the wires.
A stripper can also be used to strip shielded wires. First of all, it should be noted that it is enough difficult task, especially it becomes more complicated if the conductor is thin. So, the first step is to remove the insulation from the shielding braid. To expose the central wire, the braid is untwisted with a needle or spike. It remains to make one movement with the stripper and the wire is released from insulation. Cleaning shielded wire by hand is a tedious job, especially if all you have at hand is a knife. It is very easy to damage the wire with a knife!
So, as you can see, the stripper is pretty universal tool which clears different wires from isolation.
Coaxial cable
You can strip the insulation on the coaxial cable with your own hands. While the equipment for this purpose is inexpensive and readily available, we'll walk you through how to get the job done with wire cutters and a knife. As a rule, such a cable is used for connecting satellite TV and for standard F.
Step-by-step instructions on how to strip a coaxial wire:
- The cable should be taken away from your body.
- Take a utility knife and press firmly on the cable at a right angle from the end of the cable at a distance of 2.5 cm. Do not press with the end of the blade otherwise it will break off and may bounce into the eyes.
- At this stage it is necessary to cut outer shell, braid, foil layer and dielectric foam. In most cases, she has White color. It is with such layers that the vein is surrounded. You will feel some resistance as the blade plunges into the cable. As soon as the blade has reached half of the wire, you need to put less pressure on it. It is extremely important not to damage the central core!
- Next, you should walk around the circle of the cable. When doing this, be careful not to leave notches on the core.
- Now pull and twist the cut edge of the insulation. By doing this, you can remove the cut end of the insulation.
- If wires stick out from under the cable sheath, then cut them off with wire cutters so that they do not go beyond the edge of the sheath. It is important to examine the wire for notches. If there are any, then the above procedure will have to be repeated.
- Dielectric foam may partially remain on the main core. You can simply remove it with a fingernail.
- To connect the cable to connector F, first remove a small part of the top sheath.
- For this from previous place cut off, measure eight millimeters. Make an incision in the top shell. As in the previous case, the incision is made perpendicular to the wire. Be careful not to snag the braid. In some modifications of the F connector, there is no need to remove the braid, while in others, on the contrary, it should be removed.
- If you are not sure whether a braid is needed in your case, then leave it temporarily. This braid is around the dielectric foam. Her wires are thinner human hair, so all work should be done carefully. Just the same, now the incision needs to be made with the tip of the blade along the entire wire.
- Remove eight millimeters of the cable sheath so that the dielectric foam wrapped in the winding remains on the core.
- The braid wraps over the outer sheath. So, the dielectric is exposed. At this stage, pay attention to the requirement of the F-connector: which end of the wire should be in your case.
- All possible wiring should be absent between the braid and the central core. Against the background of a white dielectric, this will be clearly visible.
- An F-connector is placed on the end of the cable.
- The dielectric must be at the bottom of the connector after it is seated on it. It is unacceptable that he looks out or does not reach the bottom of the connector.
Under no circumstances should the tip come into contact with the F-connector.
The F-connector is now ready for use.
Cable stripping knives
Separately, it should be said about special knives that are directly used to strip the insulation from the cable. For example, the most popular is a knife with a hook. In the process of operation, it is much more convenient than stationery. Moreover, thanks to the thick blade, they can work more confidently and boldly. It will be difficult for them to cut the wire insulation, but cutting the cable along: this is what you need. Such a hook digs well into the cable sheath, so it will not jump out of it. However, such a tool does not have all the advantages, since it cannot provide good cable stripping.
Another special knife is known.
It is very easy to work. To start thumb pull off the special bracket. It is under it that you will thread the wire. At this point, a small knife peeps out of the handle, rotating around its axis. After laying the cable, the bracket presses it against this knife. Make two or three turns around the wire until you get a notch. Now, without removing the wire, pull the tool firmly towards the end. The knife will turn and cut along the casing. In the end, it remains just to remove the cut off part and continue working.
The only drawback of such a device is that it is necessary to adjust the wheel directly to the depth of one or another type of wire. You can use a piece of wire to adjust.
Also, such a knife does not cope very well with the elimination of insulation. This is due to the fact that the device can flatten a thick cable with careless actions.
So, we looked at the most common methods for stripping wire insulation. Perhaps one of the above methods will be useful in your case. Successful work!
Hi all!
The parcel was sent with a track tracked in China, all information on it is available for viewing at the link.
The extractors came in a regular plastic bag. 
There are several variations on sale: you can buy 3 pieces, you can buy 8 pieces, or you can buy 11. I chose the latter option, because you never know which wire will have to be pulled out of the plastic clip.
All extractors were interconnected by twisting, the ring was also included. Why it was not put them on him is a mystery. 
Includes three extractors various types: four pieces for single lock pins, four pieces for double lock pins and three pieces for round pins. In general, options for all occasions. They look like this: 
There are no special complaints about the quality of workmanship. The metal is quite hard, does not bend during operation. But if you set a goal, then thin “needles” can be bent by hand without any problems. But since there is no special load during their intended use, there should be no problems with this. The rings are covered with something black, either plastic or rubber. The coating is moderately soft, does not slip in the hands. I put all the extractors on one complete ring and realized that it was impossible to do this. The ring turned out to be a bristly hedgehog, which you can’t really pick up in your hands.
Now about the sizes:
1. extractors for pins with one latch (needle width): 0.8 mm., 1 mm., 1.2 mm. and 1.4 mm.;
2. extractors for pins with two clamps (distance between "needles"): 2 mm., 3 mm., 4.5 mm. and 6 mm.;
3. round extractors (diameter): 2 mm., 2.6 mm. and 3.2 mm.
In general, not a single block will stand :)
Nothing else interesting in their appearance and there is no device, which means you can proceed to practical tests. Since it was winter and cold outside the window (and even now it’s not better), the connectors found in the pantry were used for the test. I tried to take the most diverse, however, it did not work out very well. In general, a test check will be carried out on them: 
The essence of the operation of the extractors is as follows: we insert it from the connection side of the connector, the “needles” (or “needle”) of the extractor compress the retaining antennae, pull the wire in the opposite direction and remove it from the block. This picture is more clear: 
But theory is theory, and how it will be in practice, you need to make sure yourself. Started with the largest connector with 5 wires: 
Paste - drag - get the result: 
After 15 seconds: 
It really drags out the process :)
Let's move on to the next connector, this time more compact. Also, no problems, and it took about 5 seconds to remove the wire, no more. 
Last Test Subject: 
Wire from it: 
Upon closer examination of the “mother” type contact, it is clear that there are absolutely no damages on it. The only thing that indicates its extraction is a small scratch on the fixing antennae, which means that it can be installed back without any problems: 
It turns out that the extractors really work :) And very well. Previously, you had to suffer using needles or paper clips, and in the most critical cases, bite the wire or break the connector. Now that's over with. It takes a couple of seconds to remove the pin from the connector if there is direct access to it, and a little longer if the connector is in an inconvenient or hard-to-reach place.
The extractors have already been tested in real conditions. It was necessary to “pull out” the wire responsible for automatic operation headlight washer. There were no problems: 
In conclusion, I want to say that this purchase can definitely be considered successful. Perhaps, for those who have never tried to pull the wiring out of a plastic box, this is not relevant, but for those who periodically encounter a similar task, you should pay attention to this set. Well, its main advantage is not even that it is able to reduce time, but that it will save nerves :) After all, poking around in the connector and trying to pull out the last unyielding wire is another torment that can cause a bunch of emotions (not the most positive ones) . So I was satisfied. And for greater ease of use, I divided the extractors into two sets, hanging them on 2 different rings.
On this, perhaps, everything. Thank you for your attention and your time.
I plan to buy +133 Add to favorites Liked the review +118 +220Exist various wires and cables, some are laid along standard scheme, the second - by air. It is the first ones that have a special protective layer, which allows you to exclude the closure. Such a surface is subjected to dismantling in the process of performing the most simple tasks. For example, this is a connection of two cables so that the contact point becomes as tight as possible and works efficiently.
The question arises: "How to remove the insulation from the wires?". To facilitate this process, there are many different techniques and techniques. Because it is not always necessary to completely disassemble the cable, sometimes you just need to strip the contacts and not damage the main core.
In order not to be mistaken and to understand exactly how to remove insulation from a wire, it is worth arming yourself with instructions and taking as a basis correct recommendations. But without the proper tool, the work will not be done. In addition, wires and cables may have different basis methods differ accordingly.
Features of stripping insulation and problems in the performance of work
Before removing the insulation from the wires, it is worth considering some of the nuances of the process. After all, the coating can be in one layer and several. The work is done quickly, but this will require the use of a stripper.
If you do not delve into the details, many do not see the difficulties in the procedure for cleaning a cable or wire from protection. But without sharp, cutting objects, the work will not go smoothly. As a result, there is a possibility of violating the integrity of the wire itself. The following may happen:
- The formation of holes in an unnecessary place.
- There is a possibility of injury.
- Damage to the conductor itself.
All this is easy to exclude if a simple and accurate instruction for implementation is taken into service. In addition, it is necessary to have special tools. Do not rush, even if you have experience in completing the task. It is worth at least theoretically understanding how to remove insulation from wires with a tool.
What kind of wires are there?
There are two main cores used in the process - copper and aluminum. If you remove the insulation, then with each view you will have to be careful and take your time. In terms of strength, copper retains its integrity longer than aluminum. Below we consider the properties and characteristics of each.
Aluminum:
- Density is expressed in t/m 3 . More than 2.6.
- There is no resistance to frequent bending.
- Create stranded core will not work.
- The specific resistance is insignificant.
- Density is expressed in t/m 3 . More than 8.8.
- Resistance to frequent bending is present.
- It will be possible to create a multi-wire core.
- Resistivity is good.
From these data, we can conclude that the copper wire is better and its current conductivity is higher. But aluminum is not reliable. high level, so it is used less often. Great care must be taken during the cleaning process. Therefore, before removing the insulation from the copper wire, it is worth making a small notch and preparing the appropriate tool. There are not so many options for working with cables and wires, it is important to choose not just a suitable method, but an effective one.
What methods are effective?
Most of the skill in removing the protective layer from a cable or wire comes with time and practice. Especially when you need to do cleaning on the thinnest possible wire.
The main thing is to correctly choose the degree of application of effort and pressure on the tool. In addition, the speed of work and the final result depend on the direction of movement. You have to understand how deep the main vein is. It will depend on whether it is damaged or not. Before you remove the insulation from or copper, you will have to figure out what kind of material is inside.
Most simple options carrying out work:
- The use of stationery or ordinary knife. If you chose the first option, then you should not take too large, they are inconvenient to work with. Pressing should not be maximum, since their blade is quite sharp. A simple knife should have a narrow blade and high-quality sharpening.
- Use of side cutters. This is a convenient design, it is similar to scissors, but stronger and sharper. They are sold in any hardware store, although many of them always have at hand.
- Burning. This is another good option and less traumatic. For this you need to apply high temperature to melt the winding. If you need to make a small release, then this method inefficient, since a rather large area is burned.
- Using a stripper. This tool is chosen by professionals.
Knife application
How to quickly remove insulation from wires? This is the most common and effective method but it is very dangerous. When you need to process a small amount of wires at home, then this option is quite suitable. The main thing that is tedious to know is at what angle to lead the tool. You can not make circular movements, because it is completely inefficient. Because with this option there is a high probability of incision of the main working core. After that, the wires will become unusable.
The angle of inclination is as sharp as possible so that there is no deep penetration of the blade into the body of the wire. Only slight slip is allowed. You should choose the “away from you” position - such conditions are safe for the worker and for the cable itself.
electrician's knife
The electrician's knife is the most handy tool. It has a heel, so it is quite easy to hold it. At the same time, the core is protected as much as possible, the hands are safe, and the insulation is removed efficiently. This is the answer to the question: "How to quickly remove the insulation from a copper wire or aluminum?"
Side cutter - effective help
it metal tool With comfortable handles. But most often the work is done by the masters. In this process, you need to know what force to apply, otherwise damage to the main core may occur. Electricians know how to carry out the stripping process. Side cutter is used in several cases:
- When the cable is too thick, biting is done in several places along the entire length, and then the insulation is removed by hand. This option is quite suitable for inexperienced people. But the cuts must be made carefully so as not to violate the integrity of the main cable.
- It is necessary to draw a strip along the entire length, and then remove the main winding downwards.
- Through a distance of 3 centimeters, cuts are made with a side cutter. Then you need to remove the winding in small pieces.
These are the easiest options for people with no experience and not only. Masters easily work with this tool. This option will help to easily remove the insulation from the wire for scrapping. In order not to damage the main core, it is worth holding the sharpened jaws in the opposite direction of tightening and removing the insulation. This allows you not to break anything and get the job done quickly.
Today, there are wires on sale on which the manufacturer makes special notches during the creation process so that the insulation is quickly removed. Therefore, before removing the insulation from the copper wire, it is worth considering it: you may not even need tools.
Burning
This is the easiest way when you need to remove the insulation for the delivery of wires. It is also the most effective method if there are PVC cores inside. When you want to process a small area, then use a lighter or soldering iron. Under thermal influence, the winding softens, and it simply comes off the wire. With a small thickness of the winding, this option is the most effective.
There is one drawback - it is the presence of a smell. Therefore, it is necessary to carry out work in a room with access fresh air. Toxic secretions during the roasting process adversely affect the state of the body.
What is a stripper?
It is these tools that help to do the procedure quickly and efficiently. But not every cable is suitable for such work. The cross section must be at least 0.2 mm. On sale or from the masters can be found different kinds appliances:
- Manual stripper without add-ons. Its use is similar to working with a side cutter: notches are made, after which the winding is removed. But this option is not suitable for every section.
- Semi-automatic At the base there is an adjustment lever that regulates the degree of pressure, after which, when the handles are closed, the main process of stripping begins.
- Machine. This is the most the best option because it is based on several functions - notching, removing insulation, crimping cores.
As a result, this method brings a lot good points. The main thing is that cuts of the main core are completely excluded. As a result, this method can be called the best. It is the stripper that allows you to properly remove the insulation from the wires without damaging the core.
Cable check
When work is underway to get rid of the winding, you need to carry out actions in a clear sequence. Each cable has its own characteristics. Work on the copper cable must be carried out in next order, since it has two layers of PVC insulation:
- The power supply is turned off.
- During the installation of the outlet, you need to clean only a strictly defined area. 15 cm is enough. A person without experience should not reduce this distance. For this procedure, a side cutter is used.
- Notched top part and carefully removed.
- The required length is set on the stripper, after which the phase and neutral conductors are placed in the tool. A complete cleanup is done.
This is the whole scale of work, after which it is required to fix the outlet. It is not difficult to make such a procedure, although mistakes are often made. The wire breaks, and you have to strip further.
How not to crimp?
Experts believe that it is not so easy to remove insulation from cables and wires. As a result, many mistakes are made that lead to a bite of the main core. The main reason is the use of the wrong tool. Therefore, there is a special list of those violations that are worth knowing not only for beginners, but also for masters:
- When upper layer is removed and needs to be cut, often the master chooses the wrong angle, which leads to notches on the main core. Even a slight, imperceptible notch in the insulation conductive cable leads to a short circuit, and sometimes to a complete failure of the entire device.
- Incorrect use of side cutters. They have a sharp side and a blunt side, often choosing the wrong side. As a result, there is a sharp sliding along the wire, which leads to excessive tension and compression, and this is already a violation of the integrity of the main core.
- A knife with a heel is convenient, but it must be clearly directed, namely, to choose the angle of inclination. The mistake made leads to the fact that the main cable is cut. And the violation of secondary insulation brings more serious problems.
Everything happens because of the illiterate choice of the tool. But there are other problems: a frivolous attitude to the procedure for cleaning the winding of the main cable or wire. Before you remove the insulation from a thin wire, you should know what actions you have to perform, and do everything carefully and in a clear sequence. There are situations when the distance for work is minimal and it is unacceptable to take risks.
We repair headphones
A common problem when using headphones is a violation of the integrity of the wire. To restore it, you need to choose a simple clerical knife for work. The procedure takes place in several stages:
- You need to find a breakdown.
- Remove the top winding by making a neat longitudinal cut.
- Connect the components and insulate them.
How to remove wire insulation from headphones?
You can use a sheet of sandpaper. Its granularity does not matter (the main thing is to perform work on the front side of the element). We set the edge of the wire on sandpaper and press on top with a soldering iron. He will melt our winding. Further, its remains can be removed by hand. As a result, we get a wire without insulation. After that, you can make a connection using the same soldering iron. It's not a lengthy procedure, but come to positive result everyone can. No need to experiment, each tool does its job. Working with wires and cables sharp knife and a stripper, in other situations it is worth choosing the appropriate devices.
Conclusion
So, we looked at how to properly remove the insulation from the wires. As you can see, there are different instruments and ways. You just need to choose the most suitable one and follow the instructions.
An extension cord with chargers constantly gets in the way on the table or under your feet, collects a lot of dust, and it looks unaesthetic. Dealing with this problem is very simple: take a nice box, make a few holes in it and hide all the wires and cables there.
There are also turnkey solutions, such as Plug Hub from Quirky. This is a box made of hard plastic with a rubberized bottom. There are three holes on the top for cables, and inside there are three fasteners, on which you can wrap extra long cords. Plug Hub can be placed on the floor or mounted on the wall.
Amazon.com 2. Fix the wires under the tabletop
To fix the wires and extension cord under the table, you will need binders and screws (they must be at least a quarter less than the thickness of the tabletop in length, otherwise they will go through and the table will be damaged). First of all, fix the extension under the table top, preferably in the middle of the table or closer to the wall. Then fix the binders in the right places with screws. Connect everything you need to the extension cord and assemble the wires with clamps. Visually, the table has become much cleaner and neater.
There is a simpler option if you do not need to hide a large number of wires. This will require construction stapler. To prevent the long wire from the lamp from dangling under your feet, carefully fasten it with paper clips at the table leg. A small extension can also be fixed with paper clips. For thicker wires, it is better to use special clamps (for example, these).
Do you like stapler staples? Regular zip ties will do. Secure the cable to the table leg with cable ties. The wires that run along the floor can be covered with plastic or a plank to match the color of the floor. The extension can be fastened under the tabletop using a wide Velcro: fix it with screws on the back of the tabletop, and then attach the extension. To keep the wires from dangling under the table, run them through cable ducts - these can be purchased at any hardware store. You can fix the channels themselves with electrical tape or a regular plaster.
3. Organize cable storage
Get rid of the confusion in the wires will help them proper organization. To get started, collect cords from phones, a player, a game console, and tablets around the house. Then take the boxes (preferably prettier), place cardboard separators inside them, sign the place for each cable (so as not to get confused later) and lay everything out neatly. To avoid tangling the wires themselves, use ordinary ties.
If you don't feel like messing around with boxes, buy a basket and stock up on toilet paper rolls.
If the wires do not bother you, you can simply attach a label to each to make it easier to distinguish between them. For example, like this:
4. Keep all the necessary wires close at hand
Not all cables we can hide in a box: we need some of them almost constantly. The solution is simple: mount them on the edge of your desktop so that you can reach out and connect the device to the right wire if necessary. Sugru will help us with this - plasticine-rubber and one of the most indispensable things in the household. Don't believe? Then look.
Roll the Sugru into small balls and place on a table support. Then, with a clerical knife, remove some plasticine (carefully, try not to deform the balls much). Life hack: to prevent plasticine from sticking to the blade, pre-rinse it with soapy water. Then adjust the shape a little with a sushi stick or a toothpick to get neat hollows (they should be slightly wider than your wires). Everything is ready, you can fix the cables.
There is an option for those who know how to work with wood. A small block with holes will help organize all the wires on the desktop.
The simplest solution is to pass the wires through the binders attached to the table top.
hexjam.com 5. Don't hide wires
Seriously, if you get creative, cables can become interesting element decor.
Replacing the electrics in the apartment must begin with the dismantling of the old electrical network. At first glance, it seems that dismantling sockets, switches and the cable itself from the wall is quite simple, but even in such an event difficulties may arise. For example, not everyone knows how to find the wire passing through the wall, but it is also desirable to remove it before laying a new line. In this article, we will talk about how to dismantle the old wiring with our own hands, so that readers know about all the intricacies of the work.
Step 1 - Prepare the Tools
First you need to collect tools that can be useful during dismantling. At a minimum, you should have:
- Screwdriver Set
- pliers
- Insulating tape
- Indicator screwdriver, and even better - a multimeter
- Bulgarian and perforator
- Torch
- Rubberized gloves
- hidden wiring detector
With regard to the latter, it is hardly advisable to purchase a detector for a single case. You can solve the problem by doing .
Step 2 - Dismantling
When all the tools are assembled, you can proceed to dismantle the old wiring with your own hands. First of all, turn off the power in the house or apartment. To do this, turn off the introductory circuit breaker in the shield, as well as group machines, if any (just in case).
Next, you need to make sure that there is no voltage in the room, otherwise when you dismantle the socket or switch, electric shock cannot be avoided. About what we talked about. We touch the indicator to each connector and make sure that the light is off. The multimeter should show the absence of voltage in the network.
When the power is turned off, we proceed directly to dismantling. We begin the removal of the old wiring from the dismantling of the switchboard - turn off the wires after the introductory machine and remove all group circuit breakers and RCD (for sockets, lighting, individual electrical appliances). When the shield is dismantled, we move on to the dismantling of sockets and switches.
How to remove old switches and sockets does not need to be explained for a long time. Just unscrew the screws, remove the case and disconnect the wires from the clamps. The video below clearly shows how to dismantle these wiring elements:
We change the socket
Removing the light switch
Don't forget the chandeliers wall sconces, they should also be removed when dismantling the wiring. We talked about that in a separate article.
As for the electric meter, if you want to dismantle it (transfer it to another place or replace it altogether), then the first thing you need to do is obtain the appropriate permission from management company, because to dismantle the electricity meter, you will have to remove the seals. More details about that, we talked about in a separate article.
Lastly, dismantle electric cable. It's good if the wiring is done open way. In this case, the cable is simply removed from the box, and a new one is pulled in its place. You can further simplify the process by attaching the end of the new cable to the old one. During the broach, the new wiring will just replace the old one.
Things are more complicated when you need to dismantle concealed wiring in the wall. In this case, the first step is to find where the old power line runs. The easiest way is to visually inspect the walls. Where prominent plaster seams will be visible, most likely it passes cable line. If there are no visual differences, you will have to use a detector that will show where the old wiring goes, which needs to be dismantled.
Search for wiring with a detector
Please note that if you change the wiring diagram, it is not at all necessary to remove the electrician located in the wall, especially if it is in voids panel house. It will be enough to simply insulate the ends and wall up the line, and draw a new one elsewhere. This will make the dismantling process easier.
If you still decide to dismantle old wiring with our own hands, then after finding the cable laying route with the help of a grinder and a perforator, we cut through the plaster and take out the laid cable line.
How much do services cost?
Also for general information We bring to your attention the prices for the dismantling of wiring in the apartment. We took this price list from one of the companies, the average cost in Moscow for 2019.
