Clapboard wall decoration in a wooden house outside. How to sheathe a house with clapboard from the outside: consistent work technology. How to fix lining panels for exterior decoration

The way to create a strong lining of railway cars by connecting boards with a tongue and groove lock was copied by the builders. Wall cladding with clapboard turned out to be practical.

The board looks beautiful, there are no through cracks when the wood dries and there is no warping. Installation is simple and accessible to all craftsmen who want to make facade siding and insulation with their own hands.

Types of lining and purpose

To restore the old dacha and bathhouse, give them a new decorative look, make the apartment unique and warm, update the frame house, wood allows. My nephew stubbornly followed me, performing the duties of an assistant. He learned how to sheathe houses with clapboard outside with his own hands, tried to lay the right finishing material. While working, we discussed lining and its possibilities to give the building a decorative look.

Lining for walls is made from various materials:

  • Wood.
  • A metal sheet.
  • OSB board.

Plastic and metal are used outside, in industrial premises, warehouses, insulation is laid under them. The crate is made of a metal profile, there may be other options. Pressed wood boards are used for painting. The finishing technology is simple, affordable to do it yourself. Starting profiles of the same color, outer and inner corners, linings are selected for lining sheets.

Cyril was interested in which lining is the most popular and diverse. Wood has always been and remains the main building material. The panel uses natural wood. As always, Kirill arranged my stories succinctly in tables. So he did with a wooden clapboard.

Type of wood: Degree of moisture resistance: Application area:
Pine: low rest room, living room, facade, veranda, attic.
Spruce: low balcony, terrace, attic, loggia.
Linden: high bath, steam room.
Alder: high sauna, steam room, kitchen, office, living room, nursery, bedroom, bath, toilet, corridor, gazebo.
Cedar: average interior, facade, attic.
Larch: high steam room, bath, sauna, bedroom, kitchen.
Oak: high kitchen, bath, office, living room, hallway, corridor, gazebo.

You can sheathe the facade and interior walls with clapboard made of wood, make partitions. The direction of laying the strip can be vertical and horizontal. The lining differs in the shape of the section:

  • Standard.
  • Eurolining.
  • American.
  • Block house.
  • Softline.
  • Landhaus.

Their main difference is the availability of ventilation cutouts on the reverse side, the shape of chamfers. The block house has an oval top imitating a log country house. The universal lock allows you to combine different types of finishing boards in one sheathing.

Do-it-yourself clapboard wall decoration (video)

Facade cladding with clapboard

We have arrived at the address. Before us was an old dacha that had to be insulated, made a beautiful facade, save the walls from destruction by wind and rain. The walls must be sheathed with clapboard, which was already inside. With the help of my nephew, I quickly marked the main lines horizontally along the plinth and measured the irregularities of the walls vertically.

They marked it under the bars in increments of 40 cm in order to sheathe the house with clapboard from the outside. The design of the concrete plinth was made with stone siding. The crate was made of a metal profile. Natural materials are perfectly combined with each other, imitation of a stone base and wooden walls.


Kirill was interested in how to sheathe the walls with clapboard, if they are uneven and the wall material is porous, swollen and warped. We cleared the logs of dirt. Impregnated with protective compounds. While the facade was drying, planks and beams were prepared for finishing, and a vapor barrier was attached. Sheathing of the house with clapboard is carried out according to strictly defined instructions. The step-by-step installation procedure looks like this.

  1. A starting U-shaped profile was installed along the horizon line.
  2. They set the level and fixed the bars under the frame in the corners. The lower end was brought into profile.
  3. They pulled the cords in the middle and at the top so that the frame was in the same plane.
  4. The remaining bars were installed along the marked vertical lines and cords. Fastening was done through a trim bar, laying it along the depressions.
  5. After that, window and door openings were sheathed along the perimeter of the slopes.
  6. Insulation was placed between the slats of the crate.
  7. They closed everything with a hydrobarrier.
  8. Sheathing with clapboard began each wall from the lower left corner.

First, we set the rail along the corner to lay the ends in line, always leaving a gap for the wood to swell. We fastened the first row of lamellas from above, screwing a self-tapping screw into each beam. The rest, taking into account the vertical arrangement of the lamellas, fastened the lining with thin nails, hammering into the lower part of the castle. The next row went with an offset, before nailing, they left a small gap, since the log house could play.


When sheathing with metal and plastic clapboard, a kleimer is used. It is wound into the lock at the bottom of the groove. We made the front wall of the facade with vertical cladding using a clamp. How to sheathe the walls with clapboard with your own hands is shown in the video. The location of the board depends on the desire of the owner of the house:

  • Horizontal.
  • Vertical.
  • Inclined.
  • Herringbone.
  • In a checkerboard pattern.

The sketch is sketched in advance, and the beam is attached perpendicular to the direction of the cladding. Platbands, corner elements and decoration with carved patterns are made after the lining on the walls is fully installed.

Interior wall decoration


Kirill helped me to fulfill the next order, to sheathe a large room with clapboard in the house. The customer wanted to make a living room with a fireplace for relaxation in the Provence style. We had to combine the finishes. We leveled the wall with a fireplace using dry plaster, using drywall. The crate was made of a metal profile. After sealing the joints, wallpaper was pasted at a distance from the fireplace. The hearth was lined with artificial stone, making thermal insulation between the stone and vinyl wallpaper.

Pine lamellas with Softline profile, thanks to the rounded chamfer at the top, imitate overlapping board laying. The sheathing material has a decorative look, especially the Extra grade, on which the pattern is knot-free. You can look at the wall sheathed with clapboard endlessly. She is able to decorate any interior. The design in its diversity is shown in the photo.

The advantages of frame construction are the ability to quickly build a house, make it warm and beautiful. Together with Cyril, it was difficult to cope with the volume of work. We worked as a team of 4 people. The frame was installed earlier, the company for the production of ready-made home blocks itself delivered and assembled them.


I did the calculation of how much lining we need to close up the walls outside and inside, taking the size from the frame drawing. Now the lamellas have been cut in advance. The length of each board was 5 cm less than the height. The idea to sheathe vertically with clapboard under the block house belonged to the nephew. Original design and practicality combined in this solution. The textured wall looked decorative and original into the streets. Water flowed down, on the varnished planes without lingering.

Horizontal rails for fastening the lining simultaneously held the mineral wool laid in the space of the frame. To begin the cladding, the battens were first stuffed horizontally to guide the trim lamellas vertically. We will twist fasteners into flat bars. A detailed action plan can be seen in the video. Street - the front facade, we decided to do the last.

By this time, a plan for the decorative design of the outer skin should be born in the head of our henchman Cyril. The appearance of a private house is of great importance. Used fasteners with clamps. They made it possible to fix and guide each board separately, maintaining a gap for expansion. At the top, the final bar was installed. A tide was installed below.

Interior decoration of the bath


A bath is usually built from pine logs. Coniferous wood is not suitable for interior decoration of the steam room. It, when heated, releases resin. With a small amount, the aroma of the Christmas tree soothes, sets you up for rest. The sauna creates an atmosphere of strong smell, heavy air. It is better to sheathe the walls in the steam room with alder, which emits a healing aroma, or with birch. The peculiarity of the bath sheathing, the use of wooden nails. The metal has a high thermal conductivity and will leave burns on the body upon contact.

Sheathing walls with clapboard means not only prestige and visible comfort. Lining made of wood has all the properties of wood: thermal insulation and breathability. The latter is determined primarily by the exchange steam capacity - with an excess of moisture vapor in the air, the lining from the lining absorbs them; gives in case of deficiency. In addition, wood exudes a slight aroma, bactericidal substances and neutralizes unpleasant odors. All this together creates a favorable, healthy microclimate in a house sheathed with clapboard.

Note: this publication deals with wooden lining. Plastic and metal are more resistant to external influences, but, firstly, they do not diminish or add anything to the quality of the environment, secondly, they are noticeably more expensive, and thirdly, the sheathing technology differs significantly from that for wood lining. Therefore, clapboard made of non-wood materials houses are sheathed mainly from the outside.

Work order

Wooden clapboard can be used to decorate living rooms of almost any style of design, both completely and partially, see fig. In the latter case, lining can be an effective means of zoning a room, at the top left in fig.

Wall decoration with clapboard is carried out in the following order:

  • Building preparation: if the walls are porous or cold (good heat conductors) - insulation and waterproofing from the outside. Possibly some decorative trim. Neglecting this point will nullify all efforts to create beauty within;
  • The choice of material - wood species, profile and width of the lining boards;
  • Choice of sheathing scheme: horizontal, vertical, diagonal, shaped;
  • Preparation of the internal base surface - leveling, steam / hydro insulation;
  • Installation of the crate under the skin;
  • Sheathing of walls with clapboard, according to standard or simplified technology. With regard to the strength and decorative qualities of the skin, they are equivalent, the differences are different, see below;
  • Applying a protective coating to the skin;
  • Installation of sockets, lamps and other devices built into the wall;
  • The imposition of skirting boards on deformation gaps, corners of window slopes and door quarters.

Material

Decorative lining is a kind of molding - long lumber - and is a profiled board with a typical tongue and groove connection. Tongue - a type of longitudinal tongue-and-groove connection with an open groove. Sheet piles come with locks (not necessarily requiring additional fastening of boards to the base) and without locks. Lining for walls and ceilings is produced exclusively with a lockless tongue and groove, because. locking tongues are reliable only in flooring. With locking tongues, a floor laminate is produced, which is much more expensive than lining. It is impossible to lay it on the walls and even more so on the ceiling without additional fasteners. There are typical fasteners for laminate, similar to the same for lining, but working with laminate is more difficult and it does not improve the microclimate of the room. The surfaces of the walls and ceiling are subject to wear incomparably less than the floor, so it makes no sense to spend money on covering anything other than the floor with a laminate.

Wood

Lining for walls is made from various types of wood, both ordinary local and expensive imported ones. The budget of the level up to the average is available lining from pine, spruce, oak, ash, larch and birch, see fig. Cedar, maple, beech, walnut and exotic woods of the road. The dressing room and the rest room of the bath are sheathed with coniferous clapboard, the washing room is lined with oak, aspen or alder; possibly larch. Steam room - linden, aspen, alder; rarely - oak.

Note: before use, wooden lining and wood for battens under it must be subjected to acclimatization - they are kept in a room that will be finished for at least a day, stacked in a pile with ventilation ducts.

Pine lining is either the cheapest or very expensive. Cheap ones are knotty, and expensive ones are without knots from the trunks of mast pines. Knotty pine lining, however, in skillful hands, serves as an excellent decorative material. Pine breathing is even, deep. Bactericidal properties and resistance to fungi and pests are excellent. For finishing living quarters, you need to take a lining made of dry-wood pine, cut down in winter. Pine-tar, cut down during the period of sap flow, in the open air keeps no worse than bog oak, but it is too resinous and expensive. It is easy to distinguish tar on sale from dry chips: tar either shows streaks of resin, or it stains your finger with it if you hold it with pressure over the fibers. The interior decoration of the house with pine clapboard is the best option in terms of beauty, utility and cost.

Spruce is in many ways similar to pine, but it is not necessary to sheathe the nursery and the kitchen with it: spruce is not divided into dry chips and tar. The resin content of spruce wood is about the same all year round. Spruce sheathing is light, but darkens faster than pine under the influence of ultraviolet (UV), so it is better to finish with spruce clapboard rooms with windows to the north and northwest. A feature of spruce wood is its excellent resonant properties. A conversation in a spruce-lined office turns out to be solid, detailed, and the music or the sound of a film in a “spruce” living room is clear, juicy, and lively.

Note: on sale under the guise of spruce, lining is often found in almost the same color tone as pine. She is fir. There is more resin in it than in spruce, and the sound resonance is weak. Facing made of fir lining is well suited to the hallway, balcony, glazed veranda and other rooms where people go in street clothes and shoes - fir lining retains bactericidal properties for a very long time.

Oak is renowned for its strength and durability. With regard to decorative lining, it is important that the tone of oak wood differs within the same board. This gives more design options. Ash is also uneven in tone, but lighter than oak and breathes easier. The south-facing oak-lined living room can be stuffy in summer; it is generally not recommended to decorate the bedroom and the nursery with oak. Oak muffles sounds; if neighbors are “happy” from your music center, then oak paneling is able to reconcile them with unexpected joy. Oak perfectly resists rot and mold, but wood-boring beetles gnaw it willingly. The house bug most often starts up in oak houses.

Larch is very resistant, breathes like pine. Fungi and insects are not afraid; ants and cockroaches avoid houses sheathed with larch, even mosquitoes fly there reluctantly. Larch wood has a wide range of tones from wood to wood; the texture of its layers is more refined and expressive than pine. Larch lining, selected by shades, is expensive, but its regrading is much cheaper and interesting effects can be achieved in sheathing from it. There is quite a lot of resin in larch, but it quickly evaporates and (mostly) bituminizes: a year-old larch lining is equivalent in this respect to dry wood pine. It is the bituminization of the main part of the resin that explains the high resistance of larch wood.

Birch gives an exceptionally bright, cheerful, positive interior. and is aesthetically compatible with most modern design styles. Under the action of UV birch darkens slowly and weakly. Unfortunately, birch wood is very easily affected by fungi. The only 100% reliable way to guarantee birch sheathing from the appearance of colored veins and stains is underfloor heating combined with good external insulation.

Linden, alder, aspen for sheathing residential premises are of little use due to low mechanical strength; lining from these types of wood is used only for. Lining the steam room in the bath with linden makes the bath light, suitable for women, children and weak people. Steam room with alder or aspen paneling - ordinary, medium. Oak bath - vigorous. It is good to maintain heroic health and strength in it, but it will not benefit an ordinary person.

Note: it is unacceptable to sheathe a steam room and a washing bath with a knotty clapboard made of any tree; in the bath atmosphere, the knots soon begin to fall out. In the steam room, in addition, the knots are sources of fire and burn danger, heat is concentrated in them.

Profile and width

Cheaper and easier to install with your own hands (see below) lining of the Soft Line profile (on the right in the figure); if, according to the design, the visible gaps between the boards are minimal, use eurolining.

The lining of the Shtil profile differs from it not only in a smaller thickness, but also in a more rounded groove - shaped chamfers of the outer ribs. Clapboard Calm, as a rule, is expensive, made of wood without knots. Lining under a bar is used, in addition to purely decorative purposes, for sheathing auxiliary bath rooms, because. due to its greater thickness, it conducts heat worse and is less prone to knots falling out. Larch clapboard under a bar at least a year old from the time of sawing can be sheathed and washing, but not a steam room.

Note: Eurolining is also available with a comb height of 16 mm. This is the so-called. wind resistant, for outdoor cladding. To sheathe the walls inside with it or not is up to you.

The lining of any profile is produced by boards of different widths. If you intend to finish the room (s) with a clapboard with your own hands in an inexpensive simplified way, as described below, then the width of the board becomes important: the last one in the installation order must be cut in width as small as possible, and the cut should not be narrower than the plinth + deformation gap. Let's explain with an example. Let's say the length of the wall is 4 mm (400 cm). We are trying to take for vertical plating (see below) a board 150 mm wide (15 cm) along the upper layer. 400/15 = 26.67 boards will be used for sheathing. So acceptable, from the last one remains 2/3 in width; 4/5 or 5/6 would be better. With a 13 cm board, you get 400/13 = 30.77 more expensive boards; a 180 mm board will not work, because from the last in width there will be only 0.22. A 200 mm board will not work either: it seems like an integer number fits them, but there is no margin for trimming, see below.

American

The American clapboard came to construction from wooden shipbuilding: there, lining with planks is the only way to get seams suitable for waterproof caulking. Lining-American can be flat (pos. 1 in the figure) and stepped (pos. 2 and pos. 3 - a profile with dimensions), to imitate herringbone sheathing along.

It is believed that an American can only be sewn with horizontal belts. So, the installation of an American Christmas tree (as well as a blockhouse) with vertical panels is quite possible:

  • Each panel will go 2, 4 (as in pos. 4), 6, etc. an even number of boards.
  • At the extreme boards of the panel, the comb is cut off.
  • Under the joints of low edges (with cut ridges), bars are placed perpendicular to the main bars of the crate, see below.
  • High edges are connected with dowels (lamellas) - strips of wood or plywood. There is no need to cut them exactly along the profile of the grooves, it is only necessary that the keys sit tightly and the boards do not play relative to each other.

Sheathing from American vertical panels looks no worse, if not better, than herringbone sheathing (see below), but it is technologically simpler.

Sheathing schemes

The lining boards on the walls are easiest to either mount upright or impose horizontal belts. Horizontal sheathing is generally more beautiful, but it is necessary to properly sheathe the walls with clapboard horizontally, by all means laying the boards with the ridges up. Otherwise, microreservoirs are formed in the grooves (pos. 1 in the figure on the right), from which rot and infection will come. With the correct sheathing of the side of the groove of the bottom board (the first in the order of installation) is cut off, pos. 2 in Fig., so that the groove does not become a pocket - a capillary moisture trap. As for the vertical cladding, here, whether and where to cut off the tongue / groove, depends only on the method of installation. Vertical cladding is used in damp rooms or with a high probability of condensation (bath, hallway); here, the correct installation of the horizontal skin will not save it from jamming.

Diagonal clapboard lining is rarely used, because. complex and gives a large waste of material, but almost does not win aesthetically. There are many shaped linings with clapboard; you can see that, for example, flat herringbone sheathing (on the left in the next figure) is laborious, but not as complicated as it seems: the fragments are cut according to a template in a miter box and mounted on a vertical crate. They look chic, but more complicated are the rhombus panels from the lining, on the right in fig. The crate under them is a cross with a frame, in the quadrants of which bars are attached under the diagonal plating, see below.

crate

You can’t just nail the lining to the wall, even if the wooden wall is completely even: a system of capillary channels will appear between the sheathing and the wall, the room will become damp, and the sheathing and, possibly, the wall will rot. The clapboard lining is necessarily ventilated, for which ventilation channels are cut out in the undersides of the boards. That is, under the clapboard sheathing, a crate made of wood is certainly necessary.

Why wood? Because the lathing material, similar in properties to the sheathing, also serves as a mechanical damper, especially if the base wall is made of mineral materials. For the same purpose, deformation gaps of 6-10 mm must be left between the cladding and the wall, see below. If the sheathing with a wooden clapboard is applied, say, to steel profiles for drywall, then it will quickly swell or cracks will go. And if, after a year or two, the plinths are removed from the sheathing along the wooden crate, it turns out that its edges have led, but the visible surface has remained as even as it was.

Schemes of crates for vertical, horizontal and diagonal sheathing are given in fig. The general principle is that the lathing bars are perpendicular to the boards. Do not neglect the edge bars (marked in red!): There should be no hanging ends of the boards; the crate for the diagonal cladding must have a solid frame. The thickness of the lathing bars is 20-40 mm; width 30-60 mm. The installation step of the bars is 4-5 board widths along the upper layer.

Note 6: fastening the bars to the wall - 6 mm self-tapping screws in plastic dowels. In concrete from 70 mm, in brick from 90 mm, in foam / gas blocks from 120 mm. In a wooden wall - wood screws from 4x60. The fastening step of the bars is 400-600 mm. Attachment points 50-70 mm from the ends are required.

Wall

It is necessary to fasten the lining to the wall, taking into account the fact that the gap created by the crate is a ventilation, and not a steam trap. Second, in order for the sheathing with an ideal room not to be led away from drying out of the wood, the unevenness of the virtual (formed by the outer layers of the lathing beams) surface for the sheathing should be no more than 2 mm / m and the total no more than 6 mm along the entire wall of any length.

Putting the crate directly on a porous moisture-absorbing wall (item 1 in the figure) is a gross mistake. A rather expensive and time-consuming, but very reliable option for preparing a wall is to cover it with cement vapor-proof plaster, pos. 2; at the same time and the wall is leveled. To a sufficiently even concrete wall in a dry room, the battens can be fastened with EC brackets for drywall profiles, pos. 3.

Initially, EC staples are thin perforated plates. The bars of the crate in this case are pre-selected for evenness. The middle beam is placed first, the EC-brackets, already attached to the wall, are bent and fastened along its edges, the ends of the beam are bent, then the intermediate brackets are bent and the entire beam is fastened without deforming it. The rest of the bars are placed exactly in the plane, focusing on the middle one.

However, the best way to prepare a wall for clapboard cladding is vapor barrier; in the bath, kitchen, hallway, it’s impossible to do otherwise. The wall is leveled and foil isol is applied to it with foil out; insulation sheets are placed on mounting tape with an overlap of 15 cm. more than the thickness of the insulation, and already to them - the bars of the crate, pos. 4. Thus, a continuous ventilated space is formed between the insulation and the casing, shown by green arrows in pos. 5.

sheathing

The main principle of clapboard lining is to go from small complex places (see the figure on the right) to large solid planes. For details on all the intricacies of the inner lining with wooden clapboard, according to all the rules, see the following. video, and we'll see where to simplify, reduce the cost and make it easier, working with our own hands for ourselves.

Video: installation of wooden lining

Professionally, the lining is attached to the crate with mounting clips: starting (pos. 1a in the figure) and running, or clamps (clamps, clamps, clamps), pos 1 b, 2 and 3.

Fastening with adhesives ensures high labor productivity: a pro, using a pneumatic stapler, spends only a few seconds on the fastening point, see the video:

Video: Claymers for fastening lining

Second, the adhesives do not damage the boards. For example, in the countries of Southern Europe, the wooden paneling of a room is a symbol of wealth and prestige, but from strong UV, the clapboard paneling there darkens with spots after 2-4 years. Then the lining is changed, the removed boards are sorted by tone and sold as used, but no one will buy a holey board as a working material. Mounting the lining on the clamps is technologically accessible to anyone, see another video, but it turns out to be overhead, because. in addition to an increased amount of more expensive fasteners, special tools are also needed.

Video: how to fasten lining with adhesives

In Central Russia, lining under 2 layers of acrylic lacquer (see below) will retain its appearance for 10 years or more. With your own hands in your house, the lining to the crate can be fastened with small screws or nails, pos. 4 and 5:

In this case, it is more convenient to work with the soft line (pos. 5), because the number of obliquely driven hardware is reduced. The fastener caps are sunk in plain sight by turning the excess with a screwdriver or, if it is nails, with a doboynik - a steel rod with a cap under the blow of a hammer striker at one end and the other end sharpened on a truncated cone. The simplest doboynik is obtained from a 100-150 mm nail.

Recessed fastener caps are rubbed with putty on wood. Because wall and ceiling cladding is not subject to heavy loads and wear, you can prepare putty exactly to match the wood yourself by kneading 2-4 volume parts of sawdust of the same tree into 1 part of PVA.

Laying

Usually the lining is laid in the same way as a laminate: a comb is cut off from the first board and placed in that place against the wall. However, since they don’t walk on the walls and ceiling and don’t put furniture on them, the sheathing according to the “everything is the opposite” principle, pos. 6. Only the last board is cut to size in width, and the first one is placed with a groove to the wall as it is.

Protection

The panel (wall) sewn with clapboard is sanded to evenness with sandpaper No. 140-160, then primed with a primer for acrylic lacquer. The purpose of the primer in this case is primarily to raise the small fibers left by the coarse sandpaper. After the primer dries, the surface is sanded with sandpaper No. 240-280. After each grinding, the surface is blown with a vacuum cleaner (you can’t rub it with a rag!). Two sandings with an intermediate primer will give a perfectly smooth surface. Its protection against mechanical damage and UV will provide 2 layers of acrylic varnish, colorless or tinted. The 2nd layer is applied after the first has completely dried. In addition, varnishing will significantly reduce the fire hazard of the skin, but it will not interfere with breathing: breathing will go from the underside through the deformation gaps.

The construction of any building is completed interior decoration. The main criterion for the interior decoration of the house is to give it a well-groomed appearance and efficient operation. One of the most popular types today is the lining with eurolining.

The material is a thin board fixed around the perimeter of the room. Lining has been used for interior decoration for a long time. This type of interior decoration came to us from transport construction, when wooden panels were used for lining the wagons.

Material properties

The lining has a number positive characteristics:

  1. high environmental friendliness of the product;
  2. pleasant appearance;
  3. resistance to high and low temperatures;
  4. increased;
  5. no temperature coefficient.

Lining is actively used when sheathing walls:

  • wooden houses, dachas, baths,
  • terraces, balconies,
  • as decoration for rooms
  • for a bright accent in wooden buildings.

With the right choice of finishing material, the durability of such a finish can reach thirty years.

For craftsmen with experience in home wall cladding, fastening a wide lining is not a difficult task. The cost per square meter of sheathing is extremely low, with the exception of special surface decoration.

The lining is monotonous in appearance, but experienced designers are always ready to give it a universal look and find original wall mounts.

Initially, only wood was used in the construction of houses, but modern trends and craftsmen come up with other materials for lining. Today, this type of finish is widely used in modern construction and repair.

This material has rightfully gained its popularity. thanks to economy. Construction markets and shops are overflowing with a wide range of lining for interior decoration.

Kinds

The main types of lining different material, from which they are made. Every year there are new products presented by such materials as:

  1. Aluminum, it is categorically not recommended for interior decoration due to the lack of resistance to high temperatures and an unpresentable appearance.
  2. PVC panels- will save on the purchase of material, but will lose in terms of durability.
  3. MDF- a rather pleasant material that easily fits into any interior. Wiring is easily hidden under MDF, and cleaning work is carried out.

Despite innovative technologies in construction, the traditional choice of many construction companies is still is a tree. Various types of wood are used, the most common are linden, cedar, ash, birch, and alder.

Which is better to choose?

For interior decoration of saunas, it is recommended to purchase hardwood, which does not allow moisture to pass through and does not release heat outside the room. with softwood finish will be filled with a pleasant aroma.

There is an opinion about the fragility of the tree and the influence of external factors on it. A few decades ago, one could agree with this opinion, but not today, when stores are overflowing with a huge selection of various wood care products.

When choosing the right wood, it is extremely her class is important:

  • Extra- has no defects and chips, is considered an ideal option for repairs;
  • BUT- does not have a core, knots and resin pockets are allowed on it (no more than two);
  • B- material with two knots, two pockets, one spot of contrasting paint and two cracks can be attributed;
  • C- already less suitable for finishing work, as it has a number of the above disadvantages.

Particularly popular There are 2 plating options:

  1. horizontal sheathing - fasteners are made from the ceiling to the floor, which prevents the ingress of debris and moisture;
  2. vertical sheathing is carried out from the corner, and on the reverse side of the board, the kleimer is placed in the groove, then attached to the crate.

How to sheathe a decorative clapboard "block house"?

Special attention should be paid on the decoration for the house - "block house". This finish is suitable for the living room, kitchen, hallway, and will be a great solution for the attic.

An important advantage will be that the block house technique allows the walls to breathe and create a pleasant microclimate for the inhabitants of the dwelling. This type of fastening will create improved sound insulation compared to the above methods.

Before performing work, the fittings and the amount of material are calculated. But an even more important process is to let the freshly purchased material lie down without packaging. about three days in the room where it will be installed.

Wall preparation

The panels are installed on dry and even walls, so the surface should not contain defects. The walls must be waterproofed with a special film or deep impregnation.

Without this procedure, the wood panels may not withstand the increased moisture content, and the work will have to be redone.

Areas with fungal lesions on the wall treated with an antiseptic. It is better to process all the walls with it. After thorough impregnation of the walls, they will become resistant to the negative effects of fire and mold. Impregnation with a water-repellent composition is required before starting such work.

Optionally, you can install additional materials for thermal and soundproof construction. Styrofoam or mineral slabs are installed as sound insulation.

Vapor barrier film can be purchased with the purchase of facing material. Work begins with covering the walls with a film, which in the future will perform the function of steam insulation.

Frame manufacturing

The frame is made in the following steps:

Wooden panels are heavy, so for high-quality sheathing, you will need to make a reliable frame.

For a frame using the block house technique, a wooden base is suitable. The frame must be made of rails, the distance between which does not exceed 65 cm.

Before installing the frame, you need to outline the places where sockets, switches and other electronics will be located. These marks are needed in order to make cutouts in the cladding before installation.

The bars can be fixed to the wall, both with nails and mounting strips. After completion of the work on the manufacture of the frame, you can start decorating in the style of a block house with your own hands.

See the video clip for mounting the crate:

Panel mounting

Used for accurate measurement plumb, square and level. To calculate how much the board will be spent, you need to make simple calculations: divide the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room by the area of ​​​​one board.

By calculating the area of ​​​​one board, it is easy to find out how much material will be needed to cover the entire surface. When there is a shortage of panels, they are used additional clamps to fix the problem.

Fastening of wooden panels begins on a pre-installed crate. The starting bar is installed from below, with indented up to 1 cm, such a procedure is done to actively ventilate the walls and avoid further deformation of the material. A similar indent is made at the top of the wall.

Block house is set only in the horizontal direction. Sometimes craftsmen choose a vertical installation, but this method has a lot of disadvantages.

Fastening to the frame is carried out using self-tapping screws at an angle of 30-45 degrees. A hole is made on the surface of the panel with a thin drill, and then a self-tapping screw is screwed into it.

The head of the self-tapping screw should not go deeper than 3 mm.

Next, the panels are gradually installed from the bottom up. When installing the panel, the spike should look up. Between themselves, the wood is connected with the help of spikes and grooves. If desired, corner joints are fastened with corners.

There are several ways to hide the heads of self-tapping screws:

  1. With the help of material left over from work.
  2. Corks are formed from scraps and fixed with PVA glue in the recesses. Uneven places are smoothed out with sandpaper.

  3. You can use "wooden paste" made from PVA glue and sawdust.
  4. The thick composition is poured into the holes. The disadvantage of the method is the possible mismatch in the color of the composition and wood.

  5. Special plugs, which can be bought at a hardware store, will easily close the bumps.
  6. Attached with PVA glue.

For detailed installation of panels, see the video:

Corner decoration

Making corners using the block house technique causes difficulty with self-plating.

You can pre-purchase "boats" for finishing the inner corners and elements specially designed for external corners. Finished plinths will be in close contact with the block house only at the top point, as a result of which the skin will have open gaps, and this is unacceptable.

Much more convenient to use planed timber 5x5. Its installation is carried out before the start of the sheathing. The block house is attached to the timbers and the finish will look much smoother and more professional. This method is effective for inside and outside corners.

The final stage is surface grinding, but such work should be done with caution. One awkward move can break the structure of the board.

How to accurately make corners, see this video:

Which coating to choose: paint or varnish?

  • alkyd;
  • acrylic;
  • linen.

Impregnation will significantly extend the service life of the Blockhouse, reduce the occurrence of cracks on the surface, and, most importantly, give the wood fire-resistant and bioprotective properties.

In the event that naturalness is an important point, and you want to preserve the appearance of the tree, varnishing will be an alternative to painting. The surface for varnish must be perfectly clean and free of any extraneous irregularities.

To work on the walls you will need a roller or a regular paint brush. Coating is made in several layers, except for the first tonic impregnation with stain.

Which of the coating methods to choose will depend on the desire of the owner of the premises. If he's into traditional design and wants to keep the natural look of his walls, he'll need a lacquer solution.

If the room is planned as a youth room or the walls should become a bright accent, of course, preference should be given.
If the finish is done at the highest level, the room will look noble and presentable.

The cost of installation of lining

Installation of wooden lining is a labor-intensive process, consisting of many operations: preparing the walls, installing the crate, attaching the material to the walls and final impregnation.

The detailed cost of the work looks like this:

  1. Assembly and preparation of the crate 180 rubles.
  2. Wind protection device 150 rubles.
  3. Covering structural elements with an antiseptic 30 rubles.
  4. Installation 400 rubles.
  5. Impregnation with varnish or paint 70 rubles.

For a more accurate answer to the question of the cost of work, you should contact the representatives of the construction company.

Wooden lining is widely used for finishing both internal walls and facade cladding. The term "lining" has taken root in this facing material in the construction market not so long ago.
In this way, the walls of the wagons were sheathed so that there were no gaps. Nowadays, the lining is made from natural wood or PVC (polyvinyl chloride).

Wooden lining is a board dried and planed from all sides with a certain profile. This board has a groove along its entire length, on the one hand, and a spike on the other.
During installation, the spike of one board enters the groove of the other and the result is a monolithic wall without cracks and gaps. There is also such a thing as eurolining.

This lining differs from the usual lining in the shape of the profile, as well as in overall dimensions. Eurolining has deeper grooves and, accordingly, longer spikes.
The main difference between eurolining is the presence of longitudinal recesses that perform a ventilation role.
Domestic manufacturers produce lining of the following sizes:

  • board width should not exceed 150 mm;
  • board length should be no more than 6000 mm;
  • board thickness can vary from 12 to 25 mm;

The requirements for eurolining standards are much more stringent:

  • the width must be 80 mm, 100 mm, 110 mm or 120 mm;
  • the length of the board varies widely from 500 mm to 6000 mm;
  • board thickness should be 13mm, 16mm or 19mm.

Both deciduous and coniferous trees are used as raw materials for the manufacture of facade lining:

  • pine;
  • aspen;
  • larch;
  • ash;

The most common wood for the production of facade lining is spruce. The resins and essential oils that make up this tree have an amazing healing aroma, and antimicrobial (antiseptic) properties have been known since ancient times.
By quality lining is divided into 4 classes:

  • Class Extra - this material has no flaws, its surface is perfectly flat.
  • Class A - allows no more than one knot per area of ​​1.5 square meters. meters. There may be slight roughness on the surface.
  • Class B - allows the presence of four knots in an area of ​​​​1.5 square meters. meters, two resin pockets and two spots of dark color.
  • Class C - allows more knots with a diameter of up to 25 mm, one dark spot up to 25 cm². Resin pockets no more than four pieces.

The choice of wooden lining must be approached very carefully.
To choose the right material, you must follow these tips:

  • Be sure to ask the seller what kind of wood it is made from. To finish the facade, it is better to use lining made of coniferous trees.
    A large amount of resins will protect the wooden product from wet deformation.
  • If funds allow, then choose an Extra class lining. Its quality will make it possible to veneer the facade for everyone to see and it will serve much longer than the lining of lower grades.
  • Ask the consultant what method was used to dry the lining. The strength and durability of the material will depend on the quality of the dried wood.
    Wood that has been dried in special drying chambers, although it will cost more, will serve you for many years.
  • In the store you can be offered two types of facing material - standard lining or euro. More stringent production conditions are applied to eurolining.
    And it will cost more. Although some characteristics practically do not differ from the characteristics of a standard lining.
  • Before going to the store, take measurements of all the walls that you are going to clad and calculate the approximate amount of material needed. We advise you to buy material with some margin.

If you come to the store with a drawing of the house, the sales assistant will help you choose the component strips:

  • facing strip;
  • starting bar;
  • finish line;
  • hinged bar;
  • connecting strip.

From the wide range of colors, choose the one that suits your ideas.

Exterior decoration of a wooden house with clapboard

We subject the lining to antiseptic impregnation. We fix the crate with dowels.
We start the installation from below. We expose the first board by level, apply two layers of protective varnish.

Finishing facades with plastic clapboard

The most popular facade finish is plastic lining.
It is made from rigid polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Basically, PVC lining is used for exterior cladding of the facade.
The advantages of lining made of plastic are:

  • absolutely does not absorb moisture;
  • durability;
  • resistance to ultraviolet rays, does not fade in the sun;
  • easy to process;
  • high frost resistance;
  • fire safety;
  • resistance to adverse weather conditions;
  • high heat and sound insulation;
  • ease of installation;
  • rich color palette.

Installation of a plastic lining is practically no different from the installation of a wooden lining; the same tools and materials will be required for work. Instead of a wooden lining, get a plastic one.
So:

  • We mount the trim. If you plan to insulate the facade, then select the thickness of the timber according to the thickness of the insulation.
  • The distance between the bars of the crate should be 50 cm so that the foam plates can not be cut.
  • We begin to mount the lining from the lowest strip with the groove down so that moisture and dirt do not collect there. Be sure to set it to the level strictly horizontally.
  • We fix the upper edge of the strip with clamps.
  • We put the next strip on the spike of the first strip, and also fix the upper edge with clamps.
  • Thus, we make installation to the ceiling.
  • We adjust the upper strip in width and fix it with self-tapping screws.
  • We close the corners with special corners for glue for Dragon type plastic.
  • The slots at the top and bottom are closed with adhesive strips.

Plastic lining for finishing facades also has disadvantages:

  • as an artificial material, it releases phenols, which are harmful to health;
  • this is a fragile material, it is impossible to hang a load over 1.5 kg on it;
  • it can be easily damaged even with a slight blow.

The cost of facing the outer walls with plastic clapboard will be somewhat lower since it does not have to be sanded, tinted and varnished.

Wood is perhaps the most traditional type of exterior cladding for house facades. It is extremely versatile and available in many different styles. Each style is beautiful and adds a sense of traditional charm to any home. People love wood paneling for its beautiful and natural facade design.

How to Sheathe the House Outside? Wooden Lining: types and types of installation

The most commonly used species include cedar, pine, spruce and redwood. You can either leave the tree in its natural state or paint it to further customize its appearance to your desires. In addition to wood types and colors, you can additionally vary the different profiles in which wood is applied to your home.

The most common profiles for wood siding include:

  • one of the classic options - fence, barn type wooden lining, consists of wide boards joined together and a batten nailed to the joint of the two boards to close the gap, creating a vertical design
  • tiled type or overlap - these are long thin boards or individual plates, installed horizontally with a slight overlap.
  • spike - groove. Like panels, the top of each horizontally installed panel fits into a groove on the bottom edge of the board on top of it.
  • Vertical Boards - A series of wide boards are placed vertically with a row of narrow boards in between.
  • Wooden sheet siding. Plain sheets of plywood in exterior wall cladding commonly used on low cost buildings.
  • Block house - imitation of the appearance of a wooden house

Each of these subtypes has its own set of pros and cons. For example, many people prefer the classic look of shingles, but this is the most expensive option. The spike is the cheapest groove. The advantages of all types are their impact resistance, natural beauty and almost endless color variation. Wood is also relatively quick and easy to install. This is one of the best options for do-it-yourself projects, although a professional installation would be nice too.

Unfortunately, wood is not without its drawbacks. In addition to the regular maintenance it requires, it is also susceptible to damage from termites, woodpeckers and rot. The cost of maintaining appearance wooden lining and its protection against common threats can quickly offset and reduce installation costs. Finally, wood is not fire resistant. This can be a major deciding factor if you live in an area with a dry climate where wildfires are common.

Clapboard Wall Finishing: Fence, shed type of installation

This type of house front finish allows for creative work as you can use boards of various lengths. Some of the wood types used are pine, fir, cedar, and mahogany. While wood is the most commonly used material, engineered wood and wood look vinyl facade panels can also be used.


Advantages:

  • This makes the house appear taller because it is usually installed vertically.
  • You can choose between real wood, vinyl and engineered wood.
  • The tree is easy to install and operate.
  • You can be creative and use the size of tree you prefer. You can also install panels vertically or horizontally.

Disadvantages:

  • Wood can rot or become infested with pests if they are poorly treated.

Material price:

  • $3-5 per sq.m.

Block House - Great Material for House Cladding

Block house allows you to make a house that looks like a real wooden or village house. This is done using cypress, mahogany, pine or cedar logs. Block house slats must be dried and treated to give them a longer life. They can be dyed in color, although using them in their natural state is preferred by simply adding a clear coat.


Advantages:

  • This gives the house a natural, rustic look.
  • The appearance of a block house is durable if made using high quality wood and with proper maintenance.

Disadvantages:

  • Initial costs are high because the material is more expensive than conventional wood paneling, as well as maintenance costs.
  • Block house decoration requires regular maintenance to prevent insect infestation. Cracks in slats must be sealed to prevent decay.

Material price:

  • $5-10 per sq.m.

Tiled Type - Rare Wood Clapboard Mounting

Facing wooden panels panels are made using single wood blocks that can be cut into different shapes. The machine performs cutting to ensure uniformity and smoothness. They are installed on top of each other - overlap. Some of the wood types used are mahogany and red cedar. This type of cladding material is environmentally friendly and gives the house the appearance of an old country house.


Advantages:

  • The cladding material gives the house a natural look that blends in well with the environment, such as waterways and forests.
  • facade decoration with such siding is cheaper compared to brick and stone with its same rich appearance

Disadvantages:

  • cladding material needs regular maintenance, including sealing and painting, so that they do not suffer from weather conditions.
  • susceptible to moisture and can form mold and moss if not properly maintained. Insects and wind can also damage wood; it can warp, curl and crack.

Horizontal facade cladding with wooden clapboard - modern style

The exterior is made using thin wooden strips arranged horizontally, in some cases using a tongue groove. Wood helps create a rustic feel for the home. Some of the wood types used include cypress, pine, fir and spruce.


Advantages:

  • Wood can be of various textures and colors.

Disadvantages:

  • Initial costs are high, especially if woods such as mahogany and cedar are used, which are considered rot resistant.

Vertical cladding of the facade with clapboard - classic style

In this case, the wood strips are placed vertically, which can help emphasize the height of the house. Like horizontal stripes, they are connected together with a tongue and groove. The forests used are pine, spruce and cypress.


Advantages:

  • This gives the house a classic rustic look and enhances the appeal.
  • Wood is environmentally friendly.
  • The wood can be customized with stains and paints.

Disadvantages:

  • The exterior requires regular maintenance to keep the wood from cracking, rotting, warping and decaying. The facade should be repainted or repainted every three to six years.
  • Initial costs are high, especially if woods such as redwood and cedar are used, which are considered rot-resistant.
    Wood is susceptible to water and insect damage if not properly treated.

Artificial wooden lining

Artificial wooden siding (lining) looks almost exactly like real wood, but it's made from composite materials. Unlike wood-patterned vinyl or fiber cement, faux wood siding is based on real wood. Various fibers and parts are combined to create an authentic finished product.


The main advantage of artificial wooden lining is the presence of real wood. It costs much less than natural wood. Engineered wood can also be produced to your personal preference. It is available in a variety of styles that mimic different types of wood and colors. Not only does it look like real wood, it also has a distinct texture. Another advantage of this material is its durability. Expect your engineered wood to last at least 20-30 years. Engineered wood withstands extreme temperatures, humidity, fire, and insects well. She needs a little maintenance.

The only real downside to note, aside from the fact that engineered wood isn't exactly real, is that you can't repaint or restore it. The color you choose initially is the color that will stay forever, you can't recolor it.

Cool photos of how to Sheathe a House with Clapboard

In the design of the cladding of this house with wooden clapboard, modern paneling of the facade is used - the result is stunning. This couple has created the perfect property for their family, located on Hwasser Island. Due to the island's spectacular weather and the house's exposed location by the sea, low-maintenance timber was required that would withstand all weather conditions.

This striking home was meant to stand out from the more traditional cottages in the area. However, the owners also believed it was important to look to the future and build a home fit for today, with the ability to meet the needs of their dynamic family. During the summer, the family can enjoy outdoor space from the rooftop terrace, which offers breathtaking views of the natural environment.

Clapboard Wall Cladding


The terrace is built with finely-adjusted railings that work like walls to create a sheltered lounge suitable for laid-back lounging. When the weather worsens, the sliding doors leading to the terrace are closed and the family can enjoy the magnificent view regardless of the weather.

Modern Clapboard Finish


After prolonged exposure to the weather, the wood-paneled façade took on a silvery gray hue that allowed the house's exterior walls to replicate the colors of the natural stone next to it. Finishing of the facade, flooring and terrace smoothly moves into the landscape. The weathered patina enhances the appearance of raw wood without affecting the durability and dimensional stability of the facing material used.

As an environmentally friendly product contemporary wood paneling were selected for the facade primarily because of their durability and naturalness. In addition, it was especially useful that such a cladding material for the facade of the house does not require significant maintenance, other than normal cleaning, with a guarantee of 30 years even in northern climates.

How to sheathe a house with siding


Norwegian-developed patented processing technology wooden panels for facade cladding uses an environmentally friendly process that constantly improves the properties of softwood using biological fluid obtained from agricultural crops. Thanks to the polymerization of the wood walls, the durability and dimensional stability have been significantly improved, giving it characteristics similar to those of tropical hardwoods.

When choosing the material for the facade of the house, it was especially important that the wood was maintenance-free, which allowed the owners of the house to make the most of their free time for walking with the children. This home is a perfect example of how wood takes on a silvery gray patina over time, adding beauty and natural identity to a project.

How to sheathe the facade of a wooden house from the outside?

If you want a warm feeling from your exterior - lining the facade with clapboard will give it to you! Look at these photos of houses sheathed with wooden lining, and you will be convinced of this. Fortunately, modern protective materials allow you not to think about the restoration of the facade of a wooden house for a long time.

Do not be afraid to apply new technologies to old, proven materials and you will get ultra modern wooden house facades that will delight you every day!

Facade cladding of a wooden house on the coast with clapboard

Located on Orcas Island, one of the San Juan Island archipelagos off the coast of Washington, USA. The house is equipped with retractable panels that protect it from very windy storms, the prevailing ocean currents that come ashore in winter. Located on the coast of the island, the house is used as a retractable wooden panels, and the surrounding forest as protection in winter. It is widely used on the facade and in the interior of the house. lining as a finishing material. But, look how ultra-modern the upholstery looks!


On the south side of the house is a rocky shore overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Architects, answering the question of how to sheathe the facade of the house, used natural facade cladding colors to harmoniously combine this wooden house with the surrounding landscape. Lining material for exterior cladding of the house local.

Facade cladding under a tree - unity with nature in the photo


The surrounding forest helps protect the house from the weather, which is quite often harsh.

The facade of a wooden house is the best option for living


The stone collected on the site was used to level the area under the house. The space occupied by the house was compensated by a green roof on it.

Sheathing a house with wood - the right decision


The site is located on an island with sustainable coastlines and marine life, so carefully constructed stormwater flows were designed to replicate pre-construction conditions.

Sheathing the House with Clapboard Outside will never go out of style


Wall wood panels are mounted on rails, which allows them to close tightly or open widely, depending on weather conditions.

Finishing the Facade with Clapboard will always please the eye


When the weather is good and panels open - behind them is a wall of large panoramic windows, which can also be closed or opened wide to easily go outside.

Lining For House Exterior Cladding - natural house exterior design


This double sliding panel system used both front and back on the façade of this modern wooden house.

Lining For House Sheathing Outside perfectly fit into the surrounding nature


When both sets of slides are open, one can seamlessly walk through the house from the front yard to the back deck without opening the doors.

Finishing the House with Clapboard is possible not only in the interior


The home's wide open spaces are ideal for allowing ocean views to travel unhindered throughout the home and yard.

Interior Finishing Clapboard will combine everything into one


When glass panels closed and Wall panels stay open, cold parties stay comfortable.

Clapboard Outdoor gives a warm feeling when touched


The open veranda of the house also boasts a large size, which allows you to enjoy outdoor dining.

Finishing Eurolining - a sea of ​​\u200b\u200bheat and comfort


The gorgeous outdoor dining table was crafted from two planks of naturally weathered building material.

Lining For Exterior Finishing can be the same as for the interior


Roof overhang lining and deck planks are western red cedar.

Sheathing with Wooden Clapboard - easy and quick installation


Around the back of the house, the niche is also sheathed with red cedar clapboard, and the open deck is left uncovered - in weather conditions.

Do-it-yourself clapboard sheathing - not as difficult as it might seem


The rear deck slopes down to the part of the landscape that has been leveled for the foundation of the house.

Wooden Lining For Outdoor Works - modern technology makes it easy


Inside the house, wooden floors, clapboard ceiling and walls act as a frame for spectacular views.

Wooden Wall Sheathing - a practical and effective solution


Even the view from the front of the house is magnificent and constantly showcases the life of local animals.

The house from Clapboard goes well with the interior


When Wall panels closed, the view to both sides of the house is still not completely closed, and natural daylight can illuminate the interior areas.

Wall upholstery with clapboard always pleases with the result


On cold days, when the house is closed, the wood-burning fireplace is used for heating. The design with open square shelving on both sides is the main focus when closing the wall panels. Even the wooden paneling of the ceiling of this wonderful interior does not give the impression of a grandmother's dacha. As a reference to the color of the ocean and sky, several fragments of the interior have rich blue hues.

Clapboard Ceiling Finish


The indoor dining table is made from Fir wood board, but unlike the outdoor dining table, it has not been treated for outdoor use. The kitchen opens onto the side façade and deck. It has four small storage spaces on the side walls. The overhangs on the other side of the house are longer and contain a master bedroom overlooking the side garden and ocean, as well as a guest room overlooking the side garden and master bathroom overlooking the front yard. Unlike the social area, the bedrooms, bathroom and toilets do not have clapboard wood paneling.

Finishing the House with Clapboard Exterior - Modern Option

Less than an hour from Auckland, this contemporary home, finished with wood siding on the front, is in a new neighborhood filled with family homes and trees. The stylish modern home hides its residents from prying eyes, while its mid-height fence surrounds the property on all sides. The gray wood facade siding contrasts with the darker roof cladding and black steel window frames. Huge windows are an indispensable attribute of a modern house in our time.


Clapboard Wall Cladding Can Look Modern

It seems that the facade of the house consists of several supporting walls that protrude and partially mask the numerous windows. All the lines of this contemporary house speak to us of its contemporary design, both outside and inside.


At the back there is a glass entrance and just a couple of windows. Additional light in the room is provided by skylights in the roof. facade siding, with which the house is sheathed, even suitable for a shower place.

Sheathe the House with Wood - take a lining


The main entrance with the garage gives the impression of an impregnable fortress due to the lack of windows. The garage door is sheathed in the same wood siding as the exterior of this contemporary home.

Clapboard walls can be sheathed horizontally and vertically


Gravel, slightly diluted with greenery, surrounds this one. Weeds mostly grow on wooden flower beds, but how they correspond to the wooden paneling of the facade of the house! The color combination of light and dark facade cladding with wooden siding visually lengthens the walls of the house. The slope of the roof further enhances this effect.

Wooden Sheathing at Home - be sure to use modern protective materials


The interior of the house also has a large amount of wood. White stucco walls balance it out for a more modern look. Tiles in the bathroom and kitchen add another interesting element to the interior. Numerous seating areas make full use of the huge square windows. While the overall décor seems fairly minimal, the wood grain and natural lighting do a great job of giving it plenty of detail.

Clapboard Finish ~ Modern Villa in Vilnius

Mountains envelop a cool modern villa in the woods of the Lithuanian capital Vilnius. The ultra-modern building boasts an intricate design and a spacious manicured fenced lawn.

Built entirely of wood and lined wood paneling (siding) in modern style. It is located at the foot of the hill and occupies its upper part with one of its floors.


Wall Decoration Wooden Clapboard


Its side of the public area sections on the base structure gives the villa a pronounced rock silhouette that also creates the interior architecture. Many floor-to-ceiling windows and sliding doors provide easy access to the grassy carpets outside as well as open to surrounding forest views. Each level has its own outdoor lounge where its inhabitants can enjoy nature to the fullest.

Inside, a modernist aesthetic takes over every room, using nothing less than light wood and black steel. When fog sets in, the villa becomes more mystical. He raises his head and shows his wooden teeth out of the mist. It seems that no one else can see it, the structure is so artfully inscribed in the environment.

Sheathing the house with wood


Wall Cladding Clapboard


wood paneling


Wall Sheathing Board


Euroboard For Walls


Lining In The Country


Finishing the Dacha with Clapboard


Clapboard Ceiling


Clapboard ceiling


Wooden Wall Decoration


Room from Clapboard


Finishing Attic Clapboard




Sheathing Clapboard Attic


Clapboard Finish Attic


Clapboard wall decoration inside the house


Clapboard Room Decoration



Finishing the Facade with Planken


Wall decoration with eurolining


Sheathing Eurolining



Lining Clapboard