How to fix the cable to a wooden wall. Various ways of attaching wires to the wall. Fasteners for cable channel X-ET MX

Increasingly, the choice of consumers falls on suspension-type structures, which are convenient for mounting, and also provide a smooth and beautiful surface, the shapes of which can be as diverse as the colors. However, laying wires under such objects is not an easy task.

So how to fix the cable to the ceiling if the installation of a suspended structure is coming? This question will be given instructions and answers in the course of this article.

Preparatory work

In order to correctly lay the wires under the ceiling, you should know some points:

Where is the main switchboard
What brand and what section of the cable
Where is the equipment located
Which wiring method to use, based on the specifics of the room

After completing the first paragraph, you can begin the selection of the necessary cable and tools. Guided by the recommended standards, you should opt for the VVGng cable, which can be used as both a recessed and an external electrical wiring system.

The possibility of laying electrical wires depends on where the electrical equipment is located. So, if it is not possible to lay hidden electrical wiring, then it is worth planning a route along which external cables will pass.

Attaching the cable to the ceiling from the outside

Currently, there are several types of external wire fastening:

Carrying them out in a special metallized or corrugated sleeve
Gasket in steel pipe
The use of electrical pipes made of plastic
Application of cable channels
Fixing the cable to the ceiling with insulators and brackets

A wide range of cable channels of various styles for home and industrial premises is presented on the website lotki-lider.ru

Any of the above options for external mounting of the electrical cable can approach the dwelling, but it all depends on the situation. It is better to mount some types on one type of surface, and it is undesirable to use some for the same surface.

What are the surfaces and methods of laying electrical wires for them

Ceiling wood type

A wooden ceiling is best equipped with steel tubes. Their transverse dimension strongly depends on the diameter of the electrical wires. In addition, several cables can be placed in one tube at once.

As a branch to the electrical consumer, it is better to use IP65 boxes, which must be assembled from refractory material. Inside the box, the possibility of touching the cable veins to its walls should be eliminated by applying insulation. This technique is important when installing both recessed and exposed wiring.

The process of installing a cable to a tree:

First, the layout of the minibus wiring is carried out.
Next, you should mark the location and install distribution and through boxes.
Then the tubes are shortened to the required length, and they are fixed to the ceiling. Next, the pipes are interconnected by welding.
All wiring wobbles must be performed at an angle of ninety degrees.
With the help of a broach, the cable is stretched from box to box, leaving conclusions at the ends, the length of which will be adequate for desoldering in boxes (will be about 20-25 cm).
Next, the wiring cores are connected in boxes using welding or soldering. The next step is to insulate the cable.
Then you need to conduct grounding.
Finally, the last step is to check the integrity of the resulting wiring.

How to fix a cable to a ceiling made of metal

The metal surface of the ceiling is a good current conductor, so it is necessary to approach the installation of the cable as responsibly as possible in order to avoid unpleasant incidents. Thus, it is best to lay the cable in plastic electrical tubes.

This material is perfect for a junction box. However, if the room is not conducive to the installation of this matter, you can run cables in steel tubes.

Mounting Features:

The marking of the route along which the cable will pass is carried out.
It is necessary to determine the location of the passage and distribution boxes.
You should cut off the excess tubes, then fix it on the ceiling, and then glue it, connecting the structure.
It is necessary to use a corrugated tube when turning the cable route, which must be made at a right angle.
Use broach when laying the cable from box to box, leaving leads at the ends, the length of which will be 20-25cm.
Coupling of cable cores in boxes is carried out by welding or soldering. Then they need to be isolated.
After these steps, the design should be checked for integrity.

Cable laying on a reinforced concrete slab

These plates are available in old houses, because their design is somewhat different from that used in the construction of modern buildings.

Currently, the floors are being prepared during construction. Electrical pipes made of plastic are laid in advance, installation and passage boxes are laid in the future ceiling. Next comes the pouring of the floors. However, this is typical for modern designs, but not for old houses.

The use of reinforced concrete slabs forces the cable to be routed through the channels, but, often, there are concrete piles at the edges of the slabs or inside that make it difficult to lay the wiring.

An open cable can be laid on a reinforced concrete slab in the following ways:

Features of the cable in the drywall construction

A distinctive feature of such a false ceiling is limited access to electrical wires, so it is necessary to plan in advance where the wiring will be serviced. Cable fastening to the ceiling will be carried out by the method that is suitable for the existing ceiling base, whether it be metal, concrete or wood. Similar methods are mentioned above in the article.

Drywall makes it easy to hide the wires, so there is no need for hidden wiring. However, it will be necessary to take out the distribution and passage boxes outside the ceiling in order to facilitate access to them.

Fastening the cable under the drywall construction, see the video:

Features of wiring in a rack ceiling

This ceiling is hemmed, like the previous instance, so many features of the plasterboard construction are also suitable for slats. Thus, the junction boxes should be placed outside the ceiling to allow easy access to them.

The rack ceiling is often installed in bathrooms, so the wiring under the ceiling should be done:

In electrical pipes made of plastic or corrugated analogues, provided that the ceiling is made of reinforced concrete.
In steel tubes, provided that the base of the ceiling is wood.

Features of wiring for cassette ceilings

If the ceiling is made of reinforced concrete or metal structures, it is necessary to use corrugated or plastic electrical tubes.
If the ceiling surface is made of wood, then steel pipes must be used.

Installation of wiring under a stretch ceiling

Cable laying under a stretch ceiling is hidden wiring, so you should be especially careful during installation. In addition, the material used in this ceiling is not resistant to high temperatures, so the wires must be placed in corrugated tubes. Moreover, distribution and feed-through boxes should be placed outside the ceiling.

Cable installation in an electrically conductive panel

These ceilings are modules filled with polyurethane foam. Conductive plates are built into these plates. Modules can be connected up to 5 pieces to one connector. Wiring is laid based on the characteristics of the room, whether the ceiling is made of reinforced concrete, wood or metal. In addition, wire distribution boxes should be taken out of the ceiling.

Electrically conductive panels look great at night when all lights are off except for the ceiling lights. By taking a photo of this ceiling at night, you can enjoy the unusual contrast of light and darkness.

The proposed options for placing wiring on the ceiling and under it are basic and relatively easy to reproduce on their own. If you carefully follow the installation instructions and comply with all safety standards, then there should be no problems with electrical wires, and the installation of lighting fixtures will turn into a real pleasure.

Fastening a wire to a wall inside buildings and structures is a hidden or open laying of a single cable or a group of conductors. Walls are a kind of springboard for placing electrically conductive products on it. The reliability of fixing cable lines depends on the correct choice of fasteners for wires.

Fasteners for wire and cable on the wall

Modern materials and technology allow you to quickly and reliably conduct electrically conductive connections along vertical fences and ceilings. Clamps for fastening cable products of different cross-sections to fences made of concrete, brick and wood:

dowel-screed for a single cable;
screed with a hole for the dowel;
installation site;
polymer dowel with a through head;
clip for corrugation;
bracket;
self-adhesive pad;
nails for mounting.

Dowel-screed

There are two types of clamps for flat and round cables. A dowel-screed is a curly plastic strip folded in half. The shape of the fold may look like an opening for a flat or round wire of a certain size.

The cable is fixed to the wall using an impact drill or puncher. The cable is pulled into the opening of the product, its flattened ends are inserted into the finished recess to failure. The ribbed surface of the dowel provides reliable adhesion to the wall.

Screed with dowel hole

As a fastener for fixing electrical wiring of a small cross section, therefore, a small specific gravity, use ties with a hole for a dowel. Recesses are drilled along the line of the route, into which dowels are driven in, having previously threaded them into the holes of the screeds. After that, the cable is pulled, alternately tightening the ties on it.

Mounting area

The original design of the mounting platform allows you to quickly conduct wiring along vertical fences in a wooden house. To do this, you will need a screwdriver with a drill ø 6 mm. Plastic holders are suitable for any wire cross-sectional shape. Platforms are attached to the surface of the walls with screws. Nylon locking tapes are pulled through the side openings of the clamps, which tighten the wiring. On vertical fences made of concrete or brick, the platforms are mounted after drilling holes with a perforator.

Polymer dowel with a through head

A simple-looking product allows you to quickly create points for fixing electrical wiring on walls made of any material. The dowel is pressed into the hole, a locking tape is pulled through the opening of the head, with which the wire is then pulled together.

Clip for corrugation

Corrugation fasteners look like a two-legged or one-legged grip (clip). The corrugated casing can carry a group of wires with subsequent wiring for electricity consumers. Fastening the corrugation to the walls should not deform the casing. The clips firmly and securely cover the flexible hose. The clamps are nailed to the fences with dowel-nails. The corrugation is inserted into the clips until the paws tightly cover the hose.

brace

The cable fastener is shaped like the ancient Greek letter Omega. Metal cable clamps are mainly used to accommodate electrical wiring enclosed in a metal corrugation.

Staples are selected according to the diameter of the cross section of the wire hose. Installation of brackets on the walls is carried out with dowels or screws, depending on the structure of the fences. They are fixed as the cable is pulled.

Important! The corrugation is fastened with ties to the suspensions that hold the frame of the suspended ceiling. You don't need to drill anything. In the same way, the ceiling laying of single cables and wires is fixed.

Self-adhesive pad

This is the same mounting platform, at the base of which there is no hole, and the back side is covered with adhesive.

Nails for mounting

Fasteners are used for mounting cable lines of a TV signal, Internet and telephony. The latch is a plastic bracket with an opening for a wire with a diameter of 5-6 mm. A nail is threaded through a vertical hole in the bracket, which is hammered into a dense surface of wood, plywood, plaster, etc.

Using mounting guns

This type of equipment is mainly used by professionals. A mounting gun can fix up to hundreds of meters of cable during a work shift. The unit uses the energy of compressed inert gas. The gun has a special cavity into which a clip of clamps is inserted. The tool is loaded with a cassette of ten rounds, which are plastic platforms with a metal dowel nail threaded through.

The trunk of the unit is movable. To fire a shot, you need to press the muzzle against the wall, otherwise the fuse will not allow you to pull the trigger. Dowel nails for concrete and steel are available in lengths of 30 mm and 36 mm.

Do-it-yourself cable fastening

The operation of the mounting gas gun requires special operator training. The owner of a residential or other object can completely perform the fastening of wires to walls and ceilings with a perforator on his own.

If there is no need to take care of the interior of the room or the exterior of the facade of the house, then the wiring with a small specific gravity is fixed on the walls with lumps of building mixture. Basically, the fixing composition consists of alabaster. The advantage of the method is that the cable is fixed on the fence with a plastic mass. Literally within 10-15 seconds, the mixture hardens, gaining bearing capacity.

Fastening with a dowel-clamp (UW or sign)

The cable is fixed to the wall using a perforator. The wire is pulled into the opening of the clamp, and the free ends of the dowel are squeezed into the finished recess until it stops. The ribbed surface of the fastener provides reliable grip with the fence.

Fastening the cable to the wall with brackets

They are used to place electrical networks on concrete, brick and wooden walls. Steel brackets hold electrical wiring laid in a metal corrugation. In all other cases, plastic products are used. Cable steel fasteners are screwed to the tree with self-tapping screws. Clamps are nailed to concrete and masonry with dowels using a puncher or a construction gun.

How to fix cable to concrete without drilling

Drilling can be dispensed with only in one case. This is the shooting of staples or other fixators with dowel-nails with a construction gun. An exception is the method of fastening with a building mixture, and then it is effective only for power cables of a small specific gravity.

About other mounting methods

Home craftsmen do not bother with the purchase of factory-made fasteners, they make it with their own hands. Before installing the wire on the wall, strips of tin are cut. Holes are drilled in them. A plastic rod is inserted into the hole in the wall. The screw is threaded through the metal strip and screwed into the dowel. The cable is fixed by bending the ends of the strips.

A few notes on laying

The gap between the support points of the electrical wiring should be such that the cable sag is no more than 5-10 mm.
Open mounting of plastic fasteners is done in places where there is no exposure to ultraviolet radiation, aggressive environments and temperature changes.
If the wiring can be subject to accidental mechanical stress, then it is hidden in cable channels or placed in strobes.
Do not attach a power cable that is energized.

Note! Household wiring has a small cross-sectional area, so its laying does not cause much difficulty. You will need a minimum experience in owning construction power tools (this is a hammer drill, screwdriver and drill).

Options for attaching a wire inside a home

Creating hidden electrical wiring

Closed wiring is carried out in several ways.

In brick walls

In vertical fences in masonry, perforators cut out channels with a width and depth equal to the total cross section of the electrical wiring. It is pinpointed with alabaster. Then the strobes are covered with a layer of plaster.

in reinforced concrete panels

Knowing the location of the voids inside the reinforced concrete structures, two windows are made in the slab: an outlet and an inlet. Using a cable or cord, the wires are pulled through cavities in reinforced concrete. If the layer of plaster is thick enough, then a strobe is cut through it and a cable is laid. Then the channel is plastered.

In a monolithic wall

As indicated in the above options, they do only one way. Perforator - strobe.

Creating exposed wiring

In an open way, the wires are laid using the fasteners described at the beginning of the article. The main thing is that the wire products at the support points should not come into contact with metal parts (dowels, nails, screws and self-tapping screws).

Velcro wire attachment

Velcro is used in places where drilling the wall is undesirable or unacceptable. The platforms are glued to the surface of the fences, having previously removed the protective film. The wire or antenna cable is clamped with a nylon tie, threaded into the grooves of the platform.

How to fix the wire in the strobe

Alabaster - quickly and reliably;
Dowel clamps are used when it is necessary to separate one cable from the entire group of conductors;
Dowel-ties in the strobe group the wires into separate branches;
Cable ties for dowels are used in vertical channels to hold heavy electrical wiring;
A plastic dowel for a screed in strobes is practically not used due to its low bearing capacity;
Groups of wires are reinforced with aluminum plates in areas where the strobe changes its direction.

Fastening the cable channel with dowel-nails

Tool and equipment

To install cable channels, you will need screwdrivers, a rubber hammer, a screwdriver and a puncher. To fit polymer sections and galvanized steel trays at the joints, you will need a hacksaw and metal shears.

Cable channel fastening technology

Before installing the boxes, all protrusions are removed from the surface of walls and ceilings, cleaned of dust and dirt.
According to the wiring diagram, the boxes are cut into the desired segments, and corner fittings are prepared.
On the fences, the central axis of the gasket is marked with a marker. Applying the sections, holes are drilled in the fence with a puncher, then the dowel-nails are driven in with a hammer.
Cables or wires are laid in the box.
Cable channels are closed with covers.

Ceiling wiring

Before installing the false ceiling, the cable is attached to the ceiling with brackets, clamps with consoles. The electrical wiring is laid inside the metal profile of the ceiling frame or attached to the hangers with nylon ties.

They often make the mistake of hanging wires on dowels, clamps and other plastic clamps. Over time, gravity can pull the polymer retainers out of their sockets.

Additional Information. To avoid violations and errors in the ceiling laying of cables, you need to familiarize yourself with the characteristics of a particular type of fastener and its suitability for installation in such conditions. If you still have doubts about the choice of clamps, then it does not hurt to consult a specialist. A professional will tell you how best to fix the wire on the ceiling and wall.

Attaching the cable to a wooden wall

Wood is a soft material. Attaching wires to it does not cause much difficulty. There is no need for a hammer drill, it is enough to get a screwdriver or a drill. Despite its malleability, the tree has a good bearing capacity. To fix the cable to a wooden wall, several methods of open fixing of electrical wiring can be used.

Fixing with mortar

This method is rarely used. Basically, the wires are fixed between the logs of the log house in the utility rooms with a building mixture. There is nothing to say about the aesthetics of the interior.

Dowel clamp

Fasteners require a minimum depth of 30 mm, this is not always possible due to the small thickness of the wooden cladding. However, if you wish, you can use this method.

Staples

This is the most acceptable option. Staples are fixed with screws, which the wood holds well.

Other ways

Home craftsmen come up with various home-made clamps, sometimes not caring about the safety of fasteners. It is best to use factory-made products.

Despite the variety of types of clamps for fixing the cable to the wall and ceiling, each model is designed for certain conditions for laying power lines inside buildings and structures. When buying mounts, you should consult with a sales assistant.

Video

When arranging wiring, one of the tasks is the correct fastening of the cable. It should not take much time, but it should be reliable and secure.

Fasteners for the cable are selected depending on the method of its laying and the base material to which the wire will be fixed. Let's start with material selection.

Depending on the type of material

All bases are divided into soft and hard, but there are also thin and brittle ones. Soft bases include wood, plaster can also be counted here. If you need to attach the cable to these bases, nails or self-tapping screws are most often used. The process of installing fasteners is known to everyone and does not take much time.

Rigid foundations include concrete, reinforced concrete, brick. Fasteners with dowels (dowel-nails) are installed in such bases. The process of installing the dowel is longer - you first have to drill holes and insert a plastic plug, only then install the fasteners. But in such materials it is inevitable. The exception is brickwork. If the fasteners are placed in the seam, you can get by with nails. But the fastening in this case will not be very reliable.

Fragile foundations. This category includes drywall and building blocks made of lightweight cellular concrete of any type. For these bases, there are special dowels that have a larger stop area than standard ones. Also for lightweight cellular concrete, there is fasteners on glue.

Special butterfly dowels for installation in drywall or foam concrete

Thin bases. These are plastic, fiberboard, chipboard and other similar materials. If you need to fix the cable on such a surface, use thin studs, staples, with a small number of conductors, glue-based fasteners are used. Usually these are small plastic elements, on the back of which an adhesive tape with a protective strip is fixed. During installation, the protective strip is removed, the fasteners are installed on the adhesive. It will not withstand heavy loads, but you can streamline the wiring harness that goes to the desktop.

Nails, screws or dowels?

Most of the standard fasteners can be fixed either with nails or self-tapping screws, or with dowels. In accordance with the type of material, its strength and density, choose the type of fasteners.

There are also a few exceptions. For example, U-brackets from a construction stapler can only be installed in soft bases or chipboard, and dowel clips are not suitable for them.

Installation rules

Regardless of the type of fastener chosen, it is worth observing simple rules for its location. In this case, the cable fastening will be reliable.

These are all general rules for attaching a cable. This is not a dogma, but their implementation facilitates the work and guarantees normal results.

Fasteners for open laying

With the open method, gaskets try to use the least noticeable types of fasteners. Such a cable attachment cannot be completely invisible, but it may not attract attention.

We must try to make the cable invisible ....

Staples from a construction stapler

If your household has a stapler, fixing a small diameter low-voltage cable can be quick and easy. On sale there are special U-shaped brackets. They are designed just for this purpose. There are two types:

There are also special cable cleats with a plastic housing (pictured right). They are more expensive, but because of the plastic case, there is less chance of crushing the cores or damaging the insulation.

Staples can be made of galvanized steel, they can be made of stainless steel. The legs can be ordinary, they can be pointed. The second option is easier to enter even into dense bases such as chipboard. As you understand, this fastener is not used for serious conductors, but for wired Internet, telephone, etc. very convenient.

Staples and clips

Cable fastening of different diameters is most often done using brackets and clips. They are made from metal and highly durable plastic. Plastic clips are used to fix wires indoors, metal clips can also be used outdoors. The metal can be galvanized, painted, but it is better to find stainless steel for outdoor use.

The most inconspicuous of the clips are small plastic staples with studs (upper left corner in the photo). They are used when it is necessary to stretch one strand of cable. The work is progressing quickly - put, drove carnations. The remaining brackets are more visible, but more powerful and tougher wires can hold.

There are also plastic clips for fastening the corrugated containment to the wall. They are in the form of rulers of several pieces, there are one at a time. So you can fix both a single conductor and a group of cables.

The same clips can be used to attach cables of suitable diameter. For very hard conductors, it is better to use metal staples, and for conductors of medium hardness, these are also suitable. Clip-on clips with a latch are good for these purposes (pictured below on the left). They can also be used to secure cables to the ceiling.

Based on dowels

There are cable fasteners based on plastic dowels. The plastic used is heavy-duty, so the area of use is not limited - it can be placed in both brick and concrete walls. There are several types:

All these types of fasteners are inexpensive, but they do their job well. They are even better to use than with metal nails - less chance of damaging the insulation. Since they are inexpensive, you can fix the cables in the strobe with them.

Fastening the cable in the strobe

With hidden laying in non-combustible bases, the cables are laid in a special groove cut in the wall. These grooves are called strobes, and the process is called strobe or strobe. To keep the cable in this groove and not fall out, it must be fixed in some way. There are several fixing methods:

Features of combustible bases

If hidden wiring is done in combustible walls - wooden, frame, etc. - according to fire safety requirements, they must be laid in a non-combustible protective sheath. A non-combustible casing is either corrugated hoses made of non-combustible plastics, or all-metal boxes. When using corrugated hoses, the fixing method is the same as when fixing the cable. The difference is in the diameters of the required fasteners.

When using metal boxes, they are fixed in the wall, and then the cables are laid in the trays. This method is more often used in frame housing construction, because the shaving of channels in wooden walls significantly reduces their heat-insulating properties. In addition, a wooden house is constantly changing its size and rigidly fixed boxes can be a problem. When laying wiring in wooden houses, they often use open laying in cable channels or do it.

Large bundles of wires

Often, when wiring electrical wiring, it is necessary to lay a large number of cables. To minimize the time for attaching large bundles of wires, you can:

You can also use a combination of these methods. When using tape, it is attached at the edges. Due to its rigidity, it holds even rigid conductors or corrugated sheaths well. If necessary, fasteners can also be installed between the cables, but care must be taken not to damage the insulation.

How to fix cables to the ceiling

If there are not very many cables on the ceiling, you can use the usual fasteners - clamps, ties, clips, homemade clamps, etc. But it is inconvenient to install them - you have to work with your hands up for a long time, and even hold a tool, a cable in them. Hard work.

If the ceiling is suspended, the cables can be fixed to the hangers. In this case, ordinary plastic clamps (puffs) are used, which fix the wires above the level of the future ceiling. In order not to damage the sheath or even the cores, it is better to lay the wires in a protective corrugated hose. It will also make the wiring safer from a fire safety point of view.

Large bundles of cables on the ceiling are easier to lay in trays. They are wire and metal (from solid metal and perforated). In apartments and houses, they usually use wire. They cost and weigh less. They are attached to the ceiling on adjustable suspensions.

Such cable fastening also requires the installation of hangers, but the number of fasteners is much less. Another plus of this method of laying cables is that it is easy to replace or lay new ones if necessary. Minus - the trays are not very cheap.

How to organize bundles of wires

More and more appliances appear in our homes and all of them have wires. About a dozen wires often stretch to the desktop. So that they do not get confused, it is better to arrange them. There are different types of plastic pads for this. Some collect wires in bundles, while others, on the contrary, allow each thread to be carried separately.

Part of this cable fastener goes under screws or nails, part is based on Velcro. The second option can be safely installed on furniture. The adhesive adheres well to laminated or lacquered surfaces and there is no need to drill holes.

Fastening to poles and walls with air mounting method

When laying cables in the air, it is necessary to attach them to poles, walls of buildings and other objects. There are fasteners for self-supporting and conventional cables. Ordinary cables between poles without support cannot be suspended - they will not withstand the load and will break. For such conductors, a cable is stretched between the supports and a cable is already attached to it on suspensions. In this case, the load falls on the cable, and not on the cable. There are any ways to fasten the cable, but the most common is to make a loop around the pole, fix the end. For intermediate posts, you can use any available method - two separate cables, a driven hook, a suitable bracket.

The cable is attached to the carrier cable using support clamps. They are available for cables of various shapes and sections. It is also possible to use ties made of UV-resistant plastic. Sometimes, to save money, the cable is screwed with pieces of wire, twisting it. This method is the least reliable - under heavy loads, the twist may not hold the wire, it will sag and break.

For self-supporting cables, fasteners usually consist of two parts - brackets or clamps that are attached to the wall, pole, and clamps that cling to the installed bracket and hold the cables. Clamps are used only on poles. They are especially convenient on reinforced concrete pillars - there is no need to drill holes, which is very difficult.

Brackets are of several types. They are chosen depending on the type of base (wooden, steel, concrete, aluminum) and the planned load. By appointment are:

branching - for installation on poles and supports in the places of turns of the route;
intermediate fastenings - for mounting on poles and supports along the route without turns and branches;
facade - for installation on external walls.

Hangers or clamps are attached to the brackets. They are selected depending on the type of cable, its section, etc.

Today we can no longer imagine our life without a large number of electrical appliances. They have penetrated into every corner and have become an integral part of everyday activity. That is why high-quality laying and fastening of wires has become an urgent problem not only for production sites and office premises, but also for residential premises.

There are two types of fastening: open and hidden type. Further, we will consider each of the options in detail and find the best solution for all possible situations.

hidden type

Naturally, during construction or major renovation, fastening of electrical wiring is carried out in a hidden way in specially prepared channels - strobes. The absence of the need to comply with aesthetics during electrical installation expands the possibilities of fastening. Next, a number of effective and practical methods will be considered.

Dowel clamps and dowel ties

The advantage of this type of fastening is its low cost and obvious practicality. For attaching wire using a clamp or screed, it is necessary to drill holes in the wall or on the ceiling with a puncher at a distance of 30-35 centimeters from each other. Make sure that the cable fits snugly against the wall, there are no kinks or creases. If you have chosen a dowel-clamp, then it is enough just to insert it into the hole. The latter does not require additional efforts, but the reliability of fastening will be low.

In the case of dowel-screeds, you will need to additionally drive in an expander peg, which will significantly improve the quality of fastening

Fast drying solution

This method is the fastest and most reliable. But its use requires some skill, because prepared alabaster or plaster- quick-drying. Therefore, there is a risk of not having time to attach the entire wire to the wall. As in the case discussed above, the cable is laid in a pre-prepared ditch (strobe) and glued with a solution every 40-50 centimeters. The obvious advantage of this method is that there is no need to drill walls and buy additional materials. But it will be quite difficult to fix more than three wires.

Homemade staples

If the repair budget is limited and every penny counts, mounting brackets can be made independently. For this thin steel strips are required or a standard two-core cable, cut into pieces of 6-7 centimeters. Further, everything is simple: a hole is made in the center of each strip into which a dowel is inserted. The latter is hammered into a pre-prepared hole in the wall. If the mounting surface is wooden, you can completely do with simple nails.

obvious the disadvantage of this method is long preparation time for the staples themselves. And also if the staples are left uncovered, rust spots may subsequently appear on the wallpaper.

The second type of mount we'll look at would be:

Open

Usually, this type of wiring is in demand in wooden houses, sheds and utility blocks. This eliminates the need for strobes, which significantly speeds up the process itself.

Cable channels

Cable channels - it is the most modern and practical way open wiring. In this case, both a rather attractive appearance and a low price play a special role. The practical advantage is that you can easily fix a group of wires. Channel installation is quite simple. It is necessary to remove the cover, fix the channel on the wall with self-tapping screws, lay the cable and reinstall the cover simply by snapping it into special latches.

Clips

Like fastening method only valid if the wires are located in plastic or corrugated pipes. It is important to choose clips according to the size of the pipe! Next, we proceed according to the standard plan:

we fasten the clips to the wooden surface with the help of self-tapping screws;
in a concrete or brick wall, you will need to pre-drill holes into which dowels are driven in and clips are already fixed on them.

Most often, this type of fastening is used when there is a need to conduct external wiring.

insulators

For this type of attachment, the wires must first be twisted into a tight bundle. Further, porcelain barrels crash into the wall and become the basis for fixing the wiring. Tip: in order not to waste time on twisting and fixing it, you can purchase already prepared harnesses in specialized stores.

Nail and other staples

This mounting method is widely known even among non-professionals. This type of fastening is used for laying both telephone and television cables. There are two types of staples: flat and arched. All such brackets have nails in their kit, so there should not be any particular problem with their fastening. Pretty practical option for mounting above the plinth. The disadvantage is the rather low strength of the nails themselves, so such staples should always be kept in reserve in order to replace the damaged one at any time.

For fastening thin wires, experts recommend using a drive. Outwardly, it is similar to a screw and is screwed into the wall in the same way, and a cable is wound onto the directly protruding thread.

Mounting area

This method is used when the wire needs to be laid on the tile. The installation site does not require any holes to be drilled or nails to be driven in. It is attached with a self-adhesive side and holds quite firmly. It is not recommended to use this type of fastening in rooms with high humidity.

It is worth considering separately cable wiring issue through the wall. To do this, it is necessary to drill a hole larger than the sleeve installed in it. In this case, you must adhere to several rules:

If the wall is made of refractory material, then the wires should be enclosed in a box or a piece of pipe.
If the wall, for example, is wooden, then a steel pipe (or a box made of any non-combustible material) must be laid in the hole.

The above have been discussed optimal and efficient modern methods of attaching wires to the wall, which should not cause much difficulty even for an unprepared person. However, be careful and make sure that it is not connected to a live line before laying the cable!

Content:

Electrical networks connect various sources of electricity with consumers by wires and cables. Depending on the magnitude of the voltage, all components of these networks are divided into those up to 1000 volts, as well as into several groups of higher voltages. The largest number of consumers have voltages up to 1000 volts. Accordingly, in this group, the structure of the power grid is the most complex. Since there are many consumers, it means that the wires and cables connecting them are numerous and therefore must be ordered.

Safety of electricians and PUE

Just in case, we remind you that electricity is a source of increased danger. And in some cases, the work of an electrician is compared with the work of a miner who makes a mistake once. Therefore, in electrical engineering, a kind of charter is used, called the PUE (“Rules for the Installation of Electrical Installations”). Most of the fundamental electrical nuances in these rules are mentioned and are mandatory. Including the requirements for electrical wiring, including its fastenings, which will be discussed later.

The PUE refers to several types of cable and wire fastenings. Consider first the external wiring. It can be either hidden or open in its execution. In an open way, it is convenient to lay cables along the walls of buildings or strong, for example, reinforced concrete fences. This will require fixing the cable or wire on the wall, performed with a certain step.

Such a tough string

In order to reduce the number of mounting holes in the wall, a string is used.

It is a thin cable or steel wire (tape) stretched along the wall. Wires and cables, both single and in the form of bundles, are much easier to attach to this string. But this is true in comparison with direct fastening to the wall of a cable or wire only with a large length of the fixed part.

At one time, an instruction was approved that detailed all aspects of this type of fastener:

Those who wish to get acquainted with the full amount of information on this topic will find it in the instructions mentioned above. The article will reflect its main points.

When attaching cables to a string, it is important to do this taking into account the presence of a metal protective sheath. If a cable with such a sheath is laid, a gasket made of elastic material is needed at the attachment point. Its thickness is from 0.3 mm, and it is made wider than the mounting bracket by 3–4 mm. In more detail, the place of the fastener is illustrated by the images below:

For cables without a metal sheath, gaskets are not installed.

When the cable or wire is deflected away from the string, the radius is made according to the values \u200b\u200bspecified in Table 1:
Mounting brackets are located along the string with the optimal pitch:

0.5 m (but not less) on horizontal sections;
1.0 m (but not less) on vertical sections.

The string is pulled by a winch close to the bearing surface. If this surface is a plaster of a brick wall, plastic dowels are used.
When manually tensioned, the string covers the intermediate fastener. If the tension is made with a winch, the string is tied to this element.
The wire or cable is attached to the string with mounting tape K-226 or its equivalent.

If it is necessary to estimate the load on the string depending on the number and total mass of the group of attached conductors, it is recommended to use the data on the supporting cables (see below):

The junction box can also be attached to the string only if mounting on a load-bearing surface is a less efficient solution.
If the bearing surface contains protrusions, the string is attached to their tops, as shown in the image below:

The carrier string is certainly grounded (zeroed).

Direct attachment to the bearing surface

A prerequisite for a horizontal arrangement of cables is a rigid attachment to the bearing surface at the end points, on both sides of the bend and near the couplings.
With a vertical arrangement, massive cables are fastened so that their weight is distributed over the points of attachment to the bearing surface and does not cause both their own deformations (external and internal) and connection failures.
If there is a high probability of undesirable impact on the sheath of the cable or wire from the side of the bearing surface, it is necessary to use elastic gaskets at the points of contact.

The base of the box

The box can be considered as a type of gasket that is effective at every point of contact between the cable and the bearing surface. But in combination with the role of fasteners. A group of cables is often laid in it. They are fixed both in bunches and in several layers. As a result, the lower layers and individual cables are pressed by the wires located above.

In boxes, group fastening of cables is done with the distribution of the load on the fastener elements to relieve pressure on the lower wires.

For this, as well as for the purpose of functional separation, harnesses are made using corrugated collars and pipes, as shown in the image below. The design of the box should allow clamps to be fastened through perforation or otherwise. For example, through holes drilled in it.

Flexible clamps

The use of plastic cable ties for outdoor installations is not recommended in continental climates. Heat and frost eventually make the screed material brittle. Especially if the screed is tightened, and the thermal expansion of the cable is significantly greater than that of it. To secure the plastic ties, the same ones made of stainless steel are put in two or three. They will hold the cable in case of damage to the rest of the plastic fasteners. Damaged clamps can be replaced with new ones.

In combination with dowels

The tightening clamp with a hole for a self-tapping screw is suitable as an independent element for fastening the cable to the bearing surface. In this case, reliable fixation of the self-tapping screw in it is necessary. This can always be obtained by drilling a hole and installing a dowel. There are several constructive varieties of dowels adapted for surfaces with different features. Some of them are shown below:

A cable tie with a hole paired with a dowel of the required design is the most versatile cable fastening option.
The clamp must be selected according to the loading weight if it is used on a ceiling or wall.

If the weight exceeds the passport values, a crack will appear in the hole area, and the clamp will have to be replaced with a more powerful one. Otherwise, it will most likely fall off the bearing surface, and the destruction of the clamps can develop further according to the domino principle.

Special dowels are provided for fixing the cable with clamps-screeds on brick and concrete bearing surfaces. One design combines two in one. This is a dowel clamp:

Its use will be best as a cable fastener on the wall. This will require a minimum of time and financial costs due to the uselessness of self-tapping screws. On the ceiling, this type of fastener can be used, but only for light cables.

Another design is a dowel for screeds. This design solution is somewhat less convenient in installation, since it will be necessary to thread the screed through it. In the landing hole, this dowel is held more securely. Otherwise, the properties of this fastener are similar to HD.

But still, a metal self-tapping screw in a special dowel provides the most durable connection with the bearing surface. Therefore, for heavy cable bundles and the most reliable installations, a mounting pad is recommended. It is also preferred for attaching the cable to the ceiling.

Staples

It is obvious that the price of the clamp-tie increases proportionately. And part of this fastener is bitten off and thrown away after the installation is completed. Therefore, for single cables, this installation method is not optimal. The simplest fastener for a cable on a brick or concrete wall is a bracket. Its design variants are adapted to the diameter of the conductor being held:

For a stronger fixation of the bracket in the mounting hole, it is filled with alabaster or glue. This type of fastener is the weakest in terms of adhesion to the bearing surface and is used only for walls. But on the other hand, it is the fastest in installation and the cheapest. For cables in a corrugation or pipe, a type of dowel-bracket is used:

But the dismantling of a corrugation or a pipe with brackets can only be done by destroying the latter. For the possibility of multiple installations of corrugations and pipes on the same route with the same fasteners, clips are used. Their dimensions correspond to the applied corrugation or pipe. The result is an elastic detachable connection. Clips can be placed on the wall without restrictions. It is permissible to use them on the ceiling, but with refinement. The jaws of the clip must be covered with a glued thread or wire twist. When uninstalling the cable, it is cut and thrown away.