How to make a front door Do-it-yourself doors made of wood or plywood. Video: do-it-yourself simple king door

The door market is huge and natural wood is still a timeless classic. But not every door can be made by a beginner, so further you will find out which canvases an amateur can take on, and which ones are better to order in a workshop. After that, we will analyze in detail how to make a door at home, and in 2 versions and with all the subtleties.

Not every door can be made by a beginner

Making wooden doors yourself is not a problem, but first you need to figure out where you intend to put this canvas and what requirements are imposed on its aesthetic and operational data. After all, you must admit that it is one thing to have a pantry in the backyard and quite another, making doors with your own hands for rooms or your favorite bathhouse.

Massive canvases

AT this case, the term "massive doors" does not refer to either the size or the weight of the door leaf. This means that the doors are completely made of wood and there are no technological voids inside. Plus, such a canvas is assembled from solid boards and does not have any windows or other inserts.

Massive doors belong to an elite product

In stores, the price for such a product is one of the highest, and at the same time, making one-piece massive doors with your own hands is quite realistic for any home craftsman. The strength of such a canvas is the highest, only stronger than massive iron doors and that’s not all, when compared with Chinese goods, it’s better to make a door from a tongue-and-groove board yourself.

Making doors with your own hands from a solid board for a beginner is quite realistic

Of course, you should not immediately take on a solid canvas, shining with exquisite polishing, but we will tell you how to make doors with your own hands, for example, for a bath, in all details, but a little later.

Paneled canvases

Simply put, the term "paneled doors" means prefabricated canvases. That is, first a frame is made, and then panels (inserts) are inserted in certain places of this frame.

In classic paneled canvases, such inserts are made of wood. In interior panel doors, glass can be used instead of wood. The design is light and beautiful, plus it takes less material.

But we do not advise novice masters to take on this type of door. Firstly, in order to properly dock the frame planks and insert panels into them, you need a skill, and secondly, to make such canvases, you need a lot of good stuff, including a professional tool.

Inserts in interior panel doors can be made from different materials

Panel and frame canvases

From the point of view of the layman, panel and frame doors are not much different. It is believed that the panel door consists of a rectangular box, which is sewn up on both sides with solid sheets of fiberboard or plywood. At the same time, its frame sister is made of the same box, only stiffening ribs made of wooden bars are installed inside.

Professionals divide these doors according to other criteria, they distinguish between solid, hollow and small-hollow canvases.

  • Solid canvases are the highest quality in this niche. Inside the box is filled with a wooden lath, which at times increases the strength of the structure. True, the quality of the rail is not the highest, often waste goes there. In part, this design resembles a solid array, only a high-quality tongue-and-groove board is used there, and here production waste;
  • Small-hollow canvases - such doors differ from solid ones in that the inside of the canvas is filled in fragments. Roughly speaking, when they want to save money or there are not enough wooden slats for continuous filling, these slats are fastened with gaps, through one;

On the left (A) solid, and on the right (B) fine-hollow filling of the canvas

In panel sheets, the technology and existing GOSTs make it possible to use chipboard, MDF, polystyrene and even honeycomb cardboard as a filler in addition to wooden laths.

  • Hollow canvases are the simplest and cheapest option for doors. Here, sheets of plywood or fiberboard are simply stuffed on both sides of the box. To make the empty box not so noisy, a filler is mounted there. The cheapest filler option is honeycomb cardboard, and the best is foam.

It is clear that simple doors it is easier to do it with our own hands, so we will leave the paneled structures alone and focus on massive and panel canvases.

Two options for assembling the door leaf

We decided on the types of structures, but before we make a door with our own hands, let's briefly go through the minimum set of tools and choose wood for our future work of carpentry art.

What tool do you need

There is never a lot of a tool, at the same time it is not always possible to buy a complete set, but since it will not work to make a door without a tool, we will go through the main positions.

Carpentry tools for making doors

  • Hacksaw for wood;
  • Electric drill;
  • Square;
  • Roulette;
  • A set of screwdrivers or a screwdriver;
  • Plane;
  • A set of chisels;
  • Level;
  • Minimum 2 - 3 clamps;
  • Metal hammer;
  • Mallet (wooden or rubber hammer);
  • Pliers;
  • Awl;
  • Emery or grinder.

If you really want to do beautiful door with your own hands, you will have to fork out for a quality manual cutter with a conductor (guide frame for the movement of the cutter). Without it, you will not make curly details.

You can't make a beautiful door without a good cutter

Choosing wood

When choosing a tree species, it is advisable to take into account several recommendations. So for a dry room, you can take any wood, but if we make a door with our own hands, it is better to refuse from strong species such as oak or acacia, they are difficult to process.

In wet rooms, for example, in a bath, it is better to take larch, aspen or pine, they are less susceptible to decay. But at the same time, only hardwoods are used for the steam room; at high temperatures, resin will flow from conifers. The most affordable option is linden.

For doors, you need the so-called "business forest". Unlike the usual one, there are fewer knots, and most importantly, it is well dried. Humidity of working wood should not exceed 15%.

Some companies offer wood impregnated with protective compounds in autoclaves, it costs a third more expensive, but then you don’t fool around with antiseptics, plus industrial impregnation is much better.

In no case do not buy curved boards, especially a “propeller”, no matter what you are told, it is no longer realistic to align a behaving board.

Option number 1. Solid wood doors

Making a door with your own hands begins with the selection of a board. The fact is that the basis of the canvas is a shield, typed from a tongue-and-groove or simply planed board. If you make doors in utility room, then you can take regular board it's cheaper. If the door is in a prominent place, then it is better to buy a grooved board.

The minimum board thickness for doors is 25 mm, but it is inconvenient to work with such a plank, so if you have a single-layer shield, it is better to use a board with a thickness of 40 mm or more.

A shield made of grooved board is an order of magnitude better

First, take the boards and connect them together on a completely flat table. The grooved board is joined according to the tenon-groove principle, so it can be difficult to assemble the shield “dry” the first time. At this stage, your task is to clean up all the burrs so that the shield connects normally.

When the shield is assembled, you number the boards with a pencil and disassemble the structure. Now alternately put carpentry glue into the groove of each plank and reconnect the shield into single structure. This time, the first plank rests against some kind of hard ledge, and all subsequent boards, when joined, are tightly knocked out with a mallet.

So that the planks of the shield do not disperse during drying, they need to be pulled in 2 - 3 places with clamps from the sides, plus 2 even boards are applied from above and below and are also pulled together with clamps. With this approach, the bars will not lead anywhere.

The shield is pulled together with clamps in 2 - 3 places

After a day, part of the clamps can be removed and the installation of the main retaining ribs can begin. Stiffeners are the easiest option for assembling massive doors, you can arrange them as you like, the main thing is that they securely hold the vertical planks of the shield and provide rigidity to the canvas.

The connection will be an order of magnitude stronger if you cut the stiffeners into the canvas mass, but here you have to choose the grooves for the stiffeners. Theoretically, such grooves can be selected with a hacksaw and a chisel, but only a master is capable of this, it is better for an amateur to take a cutter for such work or to refuse to cut the planks altogether, just nail them on top.

But there is one more Alternative option, in which overhead stiffeners are not used. For this case, it is desirable for you to have a cutter. The scheme is approximately as follows: you assemble the shield, after which you cut a groove along the upper and lower ends of the shield and glue a tongue-and-groove board into it. Additionally, the connection is fixed with self-tapping screws.

Decor of massive doors from natural wood This is a separate big topic and it is best disclosed.

Option number 2. Assembling a panel door

If you have figured out how to make the doors yourself from an array, then assembling hollow panel doors for you will not be great work. In this case, the most important thing is to assemble a solid frame. Often, for these purposes, a board with a thickness of 20 mm or more is taken.

The option of joining the corners is shown in the diagram below, but if you don’t want to mess around with cutting grooves, then you can do it easier, take metal furniture corners and select small recesses under them with a chisel, tighten the body with corners. In any case, then all connections will be covered by a shield.

The most affordable box sheathing option is fiberboard or plywood, but the appearance will not be the best. If the appearance of the doors is important to you, then it is better to buy ready-made laminated MDF board, among professionals, such plates are called door cards.

Usually an MDF card is simply planted on a good wood glue, but if you doubt the strength of the structure, then you can add a few self-tapping screws. Only in this case, the caps of the self-tapping screws will have to be covered somehow, for example, with stickers or plastic chips.

We do not recommend you to make a completely hollow door; there should be several stiffening ribs inside. And so that the empty box does not “ring”, the rest of the space can be filled with foam or mineral wool.

For insulation and sound absorption, it is advisable to fill the shield door with foam plastic or mineral wool

Now you just have to choose and cut the hinges and then install your new doors. You can learn about the intricacies of choosing and inserting hinges, and the door installation technique is shown.

Conclusion

As you can see, making a door with your own hands is not so difficult, in any case, a person who is not afraid of a hacksaw and a hammer can handle such a task. In the video in this article, the masters reveal their subtleties and give recommendations on arranging doors, so study our instructions, watch the video and do not be afraid, you will succeed.

If you wondered: how to make interior doors yourself? Either you are an incorrigible needleworker who cannot imagine life without making something, or your design ideas are so grandiose and enchanting that among thousands of models finished doors you could not choose the right one. In both cases, it is worth soberly assessing your capabilities, having experience working with wood and carpentry tools, and being prepared for the fact that the door drawn in the sketch in nature will be strikingly different from the drawing.

In the 21st century independent production doors - exotic, akin to weaving bast shoes or baskets from wicker. But as soon as there are people who still remember how this is done, then there is a need for their skills.

Types of interior doors

Do not overestimate your potential and take on the production of panel doors if you do not have access to professional carpentry equipment. Manual or electric saws, electric jigsaws, drills and grinders cannot achieve the required precision in the manufacture of parts.

It is easier to make a panel interior door. The manufactured door leaf can be equally suitable for swing doors and for various options sliding. At the same time, you will absolutely not be tied to the size standards existing in house building and will be able to make doors for any doorway, and of any, the most intricate shape. Though like a hobbit in a hole - round.

When you have decided on the concept of the future door, you need to measure the doorway in which your masterpiece will be installed.

Required material

To make panel doors, you can use the most various materials: wood, plywood, fiberboard, plastic panels, drywall. At the same time, they can be both framed and frameless.

A bar of not the highest quality can be used as a frame, the only requirement is that it be dry and not have visible curvature along the length and twist along the axis. Can be used as a filler between facing layers mineral insulation or expanded polystyrene, according to the requirements of SanPiN, suitable for use in residential premises.

If you want to make a panel frameless interior door, then you will need to calculate the required amount of lumber according to the area of ​​​​the door leaf and convert the resulting value into cubic meters, since most stores sell lumber in cubic meters. It's not hard to do it yourself.

With a standard size of an interior door of 800x2000 mm, its area is 1,600,000 mm². Standard thickness according to GOST - 40 mm. We multiply 16000000 x 40 = 640,000,000 mm³. And since 1 m³ contains 1 billion millimeters, we divide the resulting value 640,000 00: 1,000,000,000 = 0.064 m³.

In a similar way, you can calculate the need for a filler.

Required Tool

To work, you will need a fairly large number of various tools. It is desirable that you have:

  • Circular saw (an electric jigsaw is an option, although you will never get a straight saw with it).
  • Electric drill (an option is a screwdriver, powerful enough to drill holes and use spade drills for wood).
  • Electric grinder - if you plan to make a glued panel door from solid wood.
  • Hand saw for wood.
  • A set of chisels.
  • A set of drill bits for wood.
  • Screwdriver with interchangeable bits.
  • Clamps (4-6 pcs.).
  • A hammer.
  • Mallet.

  • A planer with a piece of iron at least 40 mm wide.
  • Rubber spatula.
  • Paint brushes of various widths.
  • Foam gun.
  • Gun for sealant (acrylic).
  • Measuring tool: level, tape measure, locksmith or carpentry corner, metal ruler 1000 mm.
  • Consumables: self-tapping screws, nails, anchors, plastic and wooden dowels.

Production of a frame shield door

A frame shield door implies the presence of a wooden frame with a contour around the perimeter of the door and several transverse elements connecting the long sides of the door in order to stiffen the structure and allow fittings to be installed. Usually one additional elements located at the level of the future door handle.

Initially, exactly in size, two identical canvases are cut out of plywood (laminate, fiberboard, MDF) exactly according to the size of the door. Then two long and three or four short blanks are cut out of a bar or board. When cutting blanks, one should strive to maintain the 90° angle at the transverse elements as accurately as possible, since they must fit snugly across the entire width of the blank to the vertical elements without forming a gap. This will affect the geometry of the door and its strength.

The simplest is adhesive connection on the furniture spikes(wooden). To do this, 2-3-4 holes (depending on the width) are drilled from the end of a short (transverse) workpiece (depending on the width) with a depth of ½ of the tenon length, lubricated with wood glue and hammered with a hammer until they are completely seated in the hole.

Holes are drilled in the same way inside long blanks, at the level of which the horizontal parts of the frame will be located. To be 100% sure that the holes will match, drilling of all holes is carried out according to a pre-made stencil: which can be made from an aluminum corner with a 40 mm shelf. or any thin sheet metal.

After installing the spikes on both sides in short (transverse parts), they are laid out on a flat surface, the protruding spikes and the ends of the parts are smeared with glue, and a long part is applied to them so that the spikes enter into drilled holes. With a mallet, a long part is knocked out evenly along the entire length until the spikes are completely immersed in it. The second long part is glued in the same way. After that, it is necessary with long clamps or a tightening device floor laminate pull long parts together with the maximum possible force.

When gluing, it is not the amount of glue that matters, but the compressive strength of the parts to be glued!

After the glue has dried, the bottom panel of the skin is first glued, then the filler is placed in the voids and fixed with glue, and the assembly is completed by gluing the top sheet. Immediately after this, it is necessary to ensure a tight pressing of the panels to be glued by placing a load on the door or pulling it with clamps through the placed transverse boards at the bottom and top.

When the glue dries, the canvas is cleaned sandpaper from glue streaks, grind irregularities along the edges of the workpieces, if necessary, prime them along the perimeter, overwriting existing cracks and irregularities using a rubber spatula. After drying, the primers are again treated with fine sandpaper and wiped with a damp cloth to remove dust.

The canvas is ready for further finishing with the selected material or for painting.

Assembling a frameless solid wood door

For such doors, lumber of the required thickness is selected and preferably even in texture, without a large number knots and defects on the surface. If possible, calibrate in thickness (discrepancy is not more than 1 mm.). The basis is a sheet of plywood or other material. It is used to lay out a sheet of lumber sawn along the length so that it evenly covers the entire surface of the sheet.

The sheet on which the layout was made is lubricated over the entire area with carpentry glue and the selected lumber blanks are laid out tightly to each other on it, while their end faces adjacent to each other are lubricated with glue. After the complete laying out of all the blanks, they must be pulled together with clamps or a screed for floor boards (laminate) and placed on top of the load or also through the boards placed across the door to be pulled with short clamps.

After the glue has dried, the door is processed with a planer along the long side - the excess lumber is removed to the required width, then it is polished with a grinder to completely even out possible differences in the thickness of the lumber blanks.

So it turns out the door on the one hand has a base, and on the other hand - wooden surface from solid wood that can be kept in its natural form or covered with some kind of decorative material.

Doors made of plastic panels

The production of such doors is advisable for rooms with high humidity (baths, toilets, pantries for vegetables and balcony cabinets, etc.).

Essentially, these are the same frame panel doors, the difference is that the assembled frame must be smaller sizes door frame by 15 -20 mm. This is necessary so that after assembling the coating, consisting of plastic panels, it is possible to sheathe the door around the perimeter with a thin wooden lath, which will close the honeycomb structure of the plastic panels at the ends.

Before starting the installation of plastic panels, it is necessary to treat the frame with solutions that prevent the development of mold and, preferably, soak it with hot drying oil.

After mounting the panels and nailing along the perimeter of the rail. These doors do not need additional finishing or painting. It will only be necessary to varnish the rail or paint it the same color as the plastic panels.

Summing up

Homemade interior doors are more of a whim than a necessity. Those rare cases when it is impossible to pick up in the store ready-made version, or to order the manufacture of doors according to individual sizes to professionals - a reason to change the design concept of the room rather than take on such laborious work yourself with an unpredictable result.

Wooden doors cannot be called a scarce commodity these days, it is much more difficult to find a truly high-quality product. Almost the entire range of specialized stores are designs with a huge amount of synthetic additives. It is difficult to judge the quality, and even more so the environmental friendliness of such products. Making wooden doors is not a very simple matter. And when there is a desire and need to make a solid reliable product with your own hands, you need to prepare carpentry tool, suitable material and get down to business. Let's take a closer look at several options for how to make a door from boards with your own hands.

The classification of products depends on the features of their design:

  • From an array. The canvas of the product is assembled from a thick tongue-and-groove board. The rigidity of the structure is provided by inclined or horizontal jumpers.
  • Paneled. It is a frame assembled from processed boards and inserts - panels. The assembly of the product is carried out using wood glue. Making your own paneled wooden door can be tricky. The workflow requires machine tools and carpentry skills.
  • Shield doors can conditionally be called wooden. At the heart of the design is a frame made of wood. As outer skin MDF or plywood is most often used. To fill the internal cavity, there are several options: cardboard honeycomb packing, glued timber, or a layer of insulation. You can leave the door empty.

Material selection

How to make a solid wood door yourself with your own hands, and get a good quality product? First, make sure you select good material. It is important to take into account not only the type of wood from which the lumber is made, but also its grade, processing and drying quality.

wood species

  • Pine is easy to work with, but will dry out over time. Has a high resin content. The presence of blue on the surface of the material indicates a violation of storage technology.
  • Spruce is a soft wood with a golden hue that is able to retain its natural color for a long time. The breed has a low resin content and is not subject to cracking, has few branches, but is more difficult to grind and cut than pine.
  • Larch is an expensive material with a dense homogeneous structure. Does not rot and does not require additional treatment with special protective compounds.
  • Cedar is a durable and expensive wood. Does not rot, has a pleasant aroma and antiseptic properties, providing healing properties on those around you. Its color ranges from light pink and light beige to dark brown.
  • Oak is an excellent material in terms of strength and durability, but difficult to process. If the technology is not followed, it may crack.

Lumber Selection Criteria

If the choice of wood depends more on financial capabilities, then you should not save on quality. Even inexpensive lumber must be well dried and processed. So that the entrance wooden doors do not dry out over time, do not bend and please both with a long service life and worthy appearance, when buying material, you should consider:

  • Grade of boards (“extra” or grade “A”) A smooth, uniform surface without knots or with very little content of them, a light surface with a clearly defined wood pattern is an indicator of good quality.
  • Residual humidity in the range of 12-15%. The process of removing moisture from wood must take place in a drying chamber.
  • Evenness. This indicator is checked on a horizontal smooth surface. Tongue-and-groove locks should fit perfectly together.

The process of making a door from boards

The manufacturing technology of wooden doors is not so simple, and depends on the design. For example, the production of panel doors requires good tool handling skills and ability to operate machines. Let's take a look at a few ways to do it front door in a house, bathhouse or outbuilding.

Solid wood door

From the array, you can assemble the entrance doors to the house, bathhouse, utility room, interior structures. For residential premises, products are carefully processed so that they have an aesthetically pleasing appearance. The simplest wooden panel doors are a solid shield reinforced with transverse or diagonal elements. For the construction, a tongue-and-groove board or a regular one (for household buildings) is suitable. If you are going to make a wooden front door to a residential building, prepare a board 40–60 mm thick.

  • First, the boards are marked according to a given size and sawn them.
  • The prepared material is laid in a plane so that the wood pattern is directed in one direction.
  • The boards are connected to each other using wood glue.
  • Measure the required width of the sash and cut off the excess.
  • The shield made in several places is clamped with clamps and kept on a flat surface until completely dry.
  • Further processing with a milling cutter makes the junctions of individual boards invisible and evens out the surface.
  • How to make cross bars? Details are cut out of the board, which in section have the shape of a trapezoid.
  • To make a groove, the crossbar is applied to the canvas and outlined around the perimeter.
  • According to the marking, a groove is cut out with a milling cutter, up to a depth of half the thickness of the board.
  • The crossbar is driven into the groove from the side, gently knocking it out with a mallet.

For home installation homemade version requires a little refinement - coatings with water-repellent compounds, flame retardants, stain, varnish. If there is a need to additionally insulate the door, the simplest and most inexpensive way is to upholster the canvas with leatherette.

Paneled door

Do-it-yourself paneled wooden doors are not at all easy to make, since all structural elements need complex processing on machines. The product is a frame made of timber and panels - elements that fill the free space of the frame.

  • The initial stage is the preparation of a detailed drawing with measurements of all individual elements designs. It is necessary to take into account not only the length and width of each part of the web, but also the parameters of the groove.
  • For the manufacture of the frame and crossbars, a board or timber is used. The elements are processed with a milling cutter to obtain a tenon and a groove in accordance with the drawings.
  • At the ends of the transverse elements, a groove is made for further installation of the panels.
  • For panels use a board, chipboard, plywood or glass (for interior structures).
  • The surface of wooden panels is processed with a milling cutter to obtain a relief, or left smooth. Reduce the thickness of the edge so that it freely enters the groove of the crossbars.
  • Before assembly, all structural elements are impregnated with an antiseptic and allowed to dry.
  • Do-it-yourself door assembly is done on a flat surface. All joints are coated with wood glue.
  • The finished canvas is carefully tapped with a mallet at all joints, the degrees of corners are checked, squeezed with clamps and left until dry.

For finishing use stain, varnish or wax, after which they install the fittings.

Shield structure

Shield input wooden door assembled by hand is quite simple. To get a solid product, in the process of work, you need to control the corners - so that they are straight, and the sides are even. The panel door can have a solid or small-hollow leaf. In the first case, low-grade wood is used to make the shield. For the second option, a structure is assembled from the same material, only gaps remain between the frame elements.

It is necessary to decide on the manufacturing technology, since you can make a wooden door with your own hands in one of three ways:

  1. Assemble the harness, inside which mount a finely filled or solid shield.
  2. Make a shield, then tie around it and veneer the product.
  3. Make a separate shield and frame, assemble into a single structure and veneer.

The procedure for assembling the door in the first way is as follows:

  • For strapping, a timber of a suitable section is selected (for example, 30 * 120 mm), cut it in accordance with measurements of the length and width of the web.
  • To connect the frame elements to each other, in the end parts of the timber, cutouts are cut out for the joint “in half a tree” or “in a paw”.
  • Carpentry glue is applied to the prepared grooves and connected to each other. At this stage, the degree of all angles is controlled.
  • After drying, through holes with a diameter of up to 10 mm are drilled at the joints, into which dowels are driven in, having previously been lubricated with wood glue.
  • When the manufactured shield is dry at the joints, one side of the structure can be lined with fiberboard or plywood. The material, sawn to the size of the canvas, is laid on a flat surface, mark the location of the frame. Those places where the cladding will be connected to the frame are well coated with carpentry glue, after which the frame is laid and pressed with a press until it dries.
  • Then you can fill the inside of the frame with low-grade wood, timber, MDF pieces. The filler elements are connected with carpentry glue and placed on the lower facing sheet between the bars of the strapping frame.
  • The top cladding is mounted after the filling layer has dried.
  • Finally, the surface of the web and the end parts of the frame are milled.

How to make wooden doors with your own hands? The answer is simple: it is not necessary to have extensive experience and special education. Making wooden front doors is a process that requires a little free time, skill and a desire to do a good thing. with my own hands. Spending a few hours will allow you to learn carpentry and save your budget.

The modern market offers doors made of various materials, but wooden doors are still the most popular. They are installed in residential premises and outbuildings. Exist variety of options, differing in complexity and method of manufacture. For a bathhouse and a barn, ordinary panel boards are suitable, and the entrances are made with panels.

Homemade doors are available for execution at home. Should have quality material and necessary tools. They make simple drawings and get to work. The process takes place step by step, in which the instructions will help beginners.

Features of products of different types

The wooden door does not lose its popularity due to the warmth of the material, environmental friendliness and amazing natural beauty. Elite specimens and the simplest ones are made from boards, but of different quality and purity of processing. Each type of wood also has certain properties.

Starting to manufacture, it is determined where the product will be installed. Door leaves have different types of construction, each of which is most suitable for specific purposes. You should familiarize yourself with what each type is.

From solid wood

The material is thick tongue-and-groove or planed boards, which are connected in one plane, forming a flat surface. It turns out a shield, the individual elements of which are fastened together by horizontal or inclined jumpers, which makes the structure more rigid.

Use a wood of uniform quality, considering the place of installation. For the front door to the house choose a dense, with a beautiful textured pattern.

It has these qualities:

  1. 1. Oak - the most durable, heavy and durable products are obtained from it. The material is difficult to process, but is little affected by changes in humidity and temperature.
  2. 2. Walnut - inexpensive wood with a beautiful original structure, which is given any shade. Perfectly polished, in which no other breed can be compared.
  3. 3. Ash - has a wide range of shades. The strength is not inferior to oak, very elastic.
  4. 4. Cherry - much softer, easy to process. A beautiful pinkish-brown color that darkens over time.

For interior doors use boards from the same breeds, as well as less valuable ones. Operating conditions are much easier, so pine is often used. It is affordable, but very sensitive to changes in humidity and temperature. Products made from it often dry out or swell, but in a stable microclimate it is quite an acceptable material.

Alder has excellent qualities. It is resistant to water, but these are not all the advantages - wood contains many tannins that have a beneficial effect on human health, and there are no resins at all. This has long been appreciated, the doors from it are excellent for baths and in all places where high humidity. In addition to the listed breeds, others are also used, but they always take into account the properties and conditions in order to come out quality products.

Panel models

Do-it-yourself boards or timber are used to make a door with their own hands, but in modern conditions often used material obtained by gluing lamellae. After finishing with veneer, it acquires the texture of natural wood. It is quite difficult to visually distinguish from an array with high-quality performance.


The design has a rigid frame made of glued laminated timber or thick floorboards. Separate elements are fastened with spikes, but now dowels are used more. When creating a door, consider important points:

  • the strength of the canvas depends on the number of transverse parts;
  • panels are installed in the frames, which are two-thirds thinner;
  • the material is boards, plastic, MDF, plywood, glass;
  • fixed with natural or veneered glazing beads, which gives the product a finished aesthetic appearance.

Ways to design paneled doors are practically unlimited. Their design is the most diverse, able to decorate any apartment. The canvas in the main part is of small thickness, so the most rational application is installation between rooms.

Durable materials are used for manufacturing, products serve no less than from an array. Of particular value are specimens made of one natural tree or decorated with the same veneer.

Panel structures

This is a budget option with a low price, which is due to the use of low-value wood species, fiberboard, laminate. If made qualitatively, the products have a completely acceptable appearance, which depends to a large extent on the lining. There are three types of construction:

  • solid ones are completely filled with timber, which are fastened together;
  • hollow ones consist of a frame, cross members, sheathed sheet material;
  • low-hollow - an intermediate option between the two previous ones.

The appearance is drastically improved by the use of linden or alder plywood for covering. Requires two layers of 24 mm. This is good foundation for decorative finishes that do not deform. The cladding is supplemented with profile overlays.

The ends are made neat and solid, using a smooth, well-finished timber, the color and texture of which matches the external design. If natural veneer is used, its layers are laid perpendicular to each other. fibers decorative plywood are also arranged in a similar way.


Depending on the quality of the finish, panel doors are installed as interior doors, in wardrobe, bathroom, utility room. They are easily hacked, so they can only be used as input temporarily.

Preparation for work - materials, tools

At the first stage choose suitable wood.It must meet the requirements:

  • have no knots at all or very few;
  • be well dried, with a residual moisture content of 12-15%;
  • flat surface - check the fit of the sidewalls;
  • optimal thickness - 50 mm for the front door, from 25 - interior.

Boards are sanded before use. Deciduous and conifers. For front doors, hard ones are used - oak, beech, walnut, in other cases - mostly soft ones.


Surface finishing is carried out different ways: natural, artificial material, varnishes and paints are used.

Of the tools you will need:

  • Manual frezer. They are given a profile look to the elements, grooved joints are made.
  • Portable circular saw. She cut the bars into blanks of the required size.
  • Bulgarian with a grinding wheel. You can use a drill with a nozzle for this purpose, but the processing is of less quality.
  • Screwdriver for assembling the door leaf.
  • Carpenter's hand tools - measuring, mallet, hammer, chisel, square and more.

Production of solid wood doors

At the heart of any model is a shield made of boards, properly assembled so that it does not lead. Various types of strapping are used: Z- or X-shaped, double, triple. Scope of application is different: front door, interroom, for utility rooms. If it is intended for an apartment, grooved boards are used, they achieve a perfectly flat and smooth surface. A drawing is applied to the canvas, a relief is cut out with a router. For the bath and in the barn, they simply adjust the elements, fix the crossbars in the form of the letter Z at the back.


Getting started, mark the material and cut off the workpieces of the required length. Then they are placed in a shield, placing them so that the annual rings are directed in one direction. For grooved boards, a spike is cut off in the extreme element, the end is processed. Connect with wood glue and a lock. The assembled product is clamped with clamps and left to dry. After a few days, sand to a perfectly smooth surface.

If desired, the door is made up of several layers of boards, gluing each next perpendicular to the previous one. In this way, a massive structure is obtained, suitable for entering the house. The thickness allows you to choose a deep embossed pattern with a cutter that will decorate the product.


Next, you need to fasten the shield with strapping. The simplest type is three crossbars. Cut off bars equal in length to the width of the door. On the canvas, on the reverse side, places are marked for the grooves - finished parts are applied and outlined with a pencil. Mark the depth, which is chosen in ½ or ⅟3 of the thickness of the board. According to the marks, grooves are selected with a milling cutter. It makes them perfectly even, the bars will fit into place easily, but tightly. They move, tapping with a mallet. Apply glue first.


The front side, if desired, is decorated with a relief pattern. It is applied with a pencil, you can use templates. Apply knives different configuration, which are alternately installed on the instrument, slowly choose a pattern.

The door leaf is processed antiseptics. If it is installed outdoors, it is additionally used with a water-repellent effect. When you want to change the color, artificially age, use a stain. It is applied to the tree until the desired darkening appears. Extra cover clear varnish.


The finished product is hung on loops. From the array, it is heavy, third-party help will be needed. When installing in a doorway, leave gaps as shown in the figure. The parameters apply to any type of canvas.

Products with panels - an affordable way

These are the most complex structures, but if you use ready-made panels-inserts from laminated chipboard, the process will be simplified. It is easy to make such doors with your own hands step by step, guided by the recommendations. But first, drawings of individual elements are prepared indicating the exact dimensions. Using them, there will be no problems with the installation of individual parts into a single whole.

Such models are most suitable as interior. They buy boards with a thickness of 25 mm or more, high-quality, but the breed is not necessarily expensive. Budget pine will serve well indoors, because the climate here is constant.


  1. 1. Armed with a grinder with a grinding wheel and carefully polish the material. Only a wide surface is processed, the sidewalls will subsequently be formed by the cutter. She cut off the sharp edges of the corners, but quite a bit, giving a beautiful look.
  2. 2. Change the knife and select a groove along the entire length of the board on one side. Its width is equal to the thickness of the chipboard, usually 16 mm. Strictly adhere to the size and center of the butt. The optimal depth is 15–20 mm.
  3. 3. Manual circular saw cut the ends at 45 ° on all four boards. You should be very careful about two things: accurately adhere to the size and angle of cutting. Side racks frame according to the standard have a height of 200 cm, and the upper and lower crossbars correspond to the width of the canvas.
  4. 4. Cut out the chipboard for the panel. Its dimensions are calculated according to the internal size of the opening, to which double the depth of the groove is added. If desired, intermediate partitions are installed, in which recesses are also selected along the entire length, and small spikes are made at the ends.
  5. 5. The assembly is very simple: boards are stuffed onto the stove with a mallet, no glue is used. They are convinced that everything has fallen into place, there are no gaps, deviations from the parameters, distortions. Holes are drilled and confirmations are installed - special metal mount, which is located below and above.

The door with panels is ready, you can start finishing. But all fittings are installed in front of it - locks, handles, hinges, so as not to damage the decorative coating later.

Panel variant for various applications

The most simple design under the power of almost anyone who has the necessary material and good tool. The scope of work depends on the chosen model and purpose. If this sliding door coupe type, special attention is paid to the quality of finishes and materials. Work begins with the frame, then the interior space is filled - all or partly. For the frame, blanks are cut from boards 30 × 120 mm. Their dimensions correspond to the future canvas.

To connect, use the simple half-tree method. At the edges on each side, mark the width of the parts, make cuts with a hand saw to half the thickness. Wood is carefully selected with a chisel. Work is performed on a flat surface, check the corners. The grooves are smeared with glue and connected, left without shifting. After drying, they are fastened with dowels, drilling holes of 8 mm.

One side is covered with sheet material. Cheap fiberboard is suitable for the first layer. A frame is laid on it, marked and cut off. The frame is removed, glue is applied to the panel, both parts are pressed and left to dry. For strength, you can insert additional partitions. After drying, the inside is filled with various wastes - pieces of wood, MDF and the like. All are glued together, a second sheet is installed on the reverse side.


decorative trim It is applied taking into account where the door will be used. If it is interior, decorate with veneer, laminate or use others available options. The trim cut to size is glued to the fiberboard. It is desirable to lay a press on top, for example, sandbags, tiles. Sliding structures are made hollow so as not to weigh them down. They require special hardware to install.

Another way is to use racks. They are fixed with self-tapping screws, the hats are hidden under sawdust mixed with glue. Polished after drying. The ends and corners are also paid attention - they are processed with a cutter to give a finished look.

If you need to install handles, locks, think about it in advance. Perhaps the body of the side frame bar is not enough. Then, at the place where the fittings are inserted, a good quality wooden piece is glued.

Doors are made from boards furniture panels or bars according to previously prepared drawings. To understand what and how wooden doors are made of, let's get acquainted with their varieties.

Types of doors by design

The box from the array has the following advantages:

In the same time wooden canvas has the following features:

  • untreated raw materials quickly absorb moisture;
  • the presence of cracks and knots;
  • combustibility.

To reduce absorption, the board is dried, treated with hot steam and impregnations..

massive doors

Before manufacturing wooden doors, it is recommended to determine the features of the production process. The dacha can be protected from robbers by a massive canvas, for the manufacture of which thick tongue-and-groove or planed boards are used. The resulting structure is reinforced with horizontal or inclined lintels.


For the manufacture of massive door use dense tree

For the manufacture of a massive entrance door, cedar, larch or oak are used. Such wood is characterized by a dense structure and textured pattern.

If the project of the suburban area includes a bath, then linden, pine are used to equip the opening. The bath should be operated after wood treatment with an antiseptic.

Paneled doors

For the manufacture of paneled canvas, boards and beams obtained by gluing lamellas are used. Then the workpiece is covered with veneer. Before building a canvas, a drawing is prepared. It indicates the configuration of the panels. It can be the same or different. Instead of wooden elements glass can be used.

Panel doors are most often installed indoors.

To equip the vertical and transverse elements, you will need to glue the timber. For the manufacture of the canvas, a floorboard of the appropriate thickness is used. Spikes are used to fix individual elements.

Door Assembly Diagram

If a panel is used to make the canvas, you need to consider:

  • the reliability of the product is directly affected by the number of transverse;
  • a home-made box is formed from a bar, and a rail or plastic is used to make a panel;
  • bead is used to fix the panels.

Since the panel door has a small thickness, it is considered the best option to equip the interior doorway.

Panel doors

The shield box is made of fiberboard, veneer or laminate. The frame is assembled from boards. As a shield, sheets of fiberboard, MDF or chipboard are used.

Design shield door

The canvases under consideration are classified into the following types:

  • solid - filled with bars fastened together;
  • hollow - made from side and transverse bars. Lining is used for sheathing;
  • small-hollow - have different filling.

To independently create a high-quality canvas, the frame is pre-coated with plywood. The material is laid in 2 layers. The size of 1 layer is 24 mm. This technology prevents deformation of the coating.

Tools for the job

From the tools you will need:

  • to create grooves and holes, you need a milling cutter;
  • hacksaw;
  • to grind the ends of the doors, you need a planer;
  • chisels;
  • a hammer;
  • screwdriver

Standard set of tools for making a door

To assemble the doors, you will need the following materials:

  • sheet pile boards;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • glue.

The acquired wood is additionally dried. The boards are laid so that they do not touch each other.

Choice of lumber

Before assembling the canvas, an individual plan for the upcoming work is drawn up. Special attention given to the choice of boards. The following criteria are taken into account:

  • financial opportunities;
  • acquisition of “commercial wood;
  • residual moisture - 15%;
  • checking the evenness of the material;
  • board thickness - 25-50 mm;
  • array is polished.

Step by step instructions for making

Any step-by-step plan for the manufacture of the door provides for the assembly of the shield. If it is planned to install the canvas in the bath, then a simple assembly of the shield is carried out. To fix the boards, transverse and longitudinal elements are used. warm box for the home is made taking into account aesthetics. The assembled shield is polished.

Production of solid wood doors

AT step by step plan canvas assembly included right choice consumable. To make a shield, you will need grooved boards with a thickness of more than 25 mm. Then consumable cut into pieces.


Tongue-and-groove boards must be even and without grooves on the front sides

When assembling the shield, it is recommended to take into account the direction of the annual rings. To connect the tongue-and-groove boards, a tongue-and-groove lock and wood glue are used. If the consumable is non-groove boards, then they are assembled with glue.

Work is done on a large area. The assembled coating is pressed with clamps. If the shield is dry, it is processed with a milling cutter. To be good sound insulation, it is recommended to assemble a shield from several layers of boards. The resulting structure is clamped with clamps.


Traditional ways dressing boards in solid wood doors

For strapping, crossbars are used, installed at the top, in the middle and at the bottom of the cover. On the canvas, markings are made for the grooves. The recesses to be made should be ½ the thickness of the consumable.

Assembly diagram

Holes are cut using a router. It is more difficult to cut grooves by hand. This will require a chisel. A rubber mallet is used to insert the cross member. If it is planned to apply a drawing to the resulting shield, its outline is first outlined with a pencil according to the template. A cutter is used for cutting.


Cutouts are milled according to a drawing previously applied with a pencil.

Then the canvas is painted with pre-treatment antiseptic. On the canvas and the box make markings for mounting loops. Similarly, markings are made for the handle and lock. Final stage- canopy of the canvas in the opening.


Treatment with antiseptic and varnish

Panel door manufacturing

The instruction for the manufacture of a thyroid sheet allows the use of finely filled boards. Experts distinguish 3 methods of assembling such a design:

  • pre-assembly of the frame with subsequent filling of its internal space. Using this technology, you can create a solid or finely filled shield;
  • separate production of the shield with its subsequent fixation in the frame. The last stage is sheathing with finishing material;
  • the manufactured shield is mounted in a frame, lined.

To assemble the canvas according to the first method, primary strapping is carried out. She will determine the size of the future door. For the construction, a bar with a section of 30 × 120 mm is used. Consumables are cut according to the dimensions of the future structure.

The next step is to select the type of connection in the corners. Experts advise using the "half-tree" method. Accurate marking future grooves - an important stage in the assembly of the shield.


Scheme of connection of frame elements

All grooves are coated with glue. The connection of the beam is carried out on a flat, but large area. If the glue is dry, the joints are fixed with dowels. For this, through holes with a diameter of 8-10 mm are made..

For facing the frame, plywood or fiberboard is used. Marking is carried out, the frame is removed. The frame returns to its original place. She needs to be pressed facing material treated with glue.


For cladding, plywood or fiberboard is used

To fill the interior space, MDF is used. It is glued to the bottom sheet of the finishing material. But first, the glue must dry well. In parallel, it is recommended to prepare consumables for the outer lining of the canvas.


Internal padding gives the fabric rigidity

If you need to glue 2 sheets, then the first sheet is fiberboard, and the second is laminated material or SHF. The resulting design is sent under the press.

You can sheathe the door with natural wooden slats. They are fixed to the frame. The holes made are filled with a mixture of glue and sawdust. If the surface is dry, it is treated with sandpaper. All corners and ends are machined with a cutter. In the finished door leaf and,. The door is mounted in an appropriate box.

Produced in a similar manner frame door- the internal space is additionally reinforced with bars. But before starting work, accurate calculations are carried out, a drawing is prepared.

Panel door manufacturing

To make a paneled door, you will need special carpentry tools and experience. Elements structures are made of plywood, massive boards. A drawing is preliminarily prepared, on which 4 panels are marked.


The frame is made from timber. It is pre-treated with a cutter. Then a groove is made on one side of it. Spikes are cut out on the crossbars, and the edges are processed with a milling cutter. Panels and mullions are inserted into the grooves.

The end part of the coating, which will go to the end of the canvas, must be even. Slots are made in the vertical elements to assemble the structure.

To make panels, plywood or chipboard is used. Some panel elements are replaced with glass. In this case, glazing beads are additionally used. Panels with a flat plane are mounted and framed with a glazing bead.

Otherwise, the panels are processed by a milling cutter. In this way, a relief configuration is created. Plywood is used to make panels. Each element of the future canvas is treated with an antiseptic and dried.



All parts are assembled into a single structure on a flat surface, and each spike is coated special glue. Step by step assembly doors:

  • gluing the crossbars into the grooves of the vertical bars;
  • installation of mullions;
  • installation of the remaining panels;
  • gluing a vertical bar;
  • fixing glazing beads for finishing.

To install the spikes in the grooves, a rubberized hammer is used. The canvas is lined from the sides. To check the corners, a building corner is used. The cover is compressed with clamps.

Markings are made on the canvas for installing hinges and handles with a lock. Installation of fittings is carried out after completion finishing works. Used for finishing acrylic paint or . To get a dark finish, stain is used.

Warming and soundproofing


door insulation scheme

Painting

At the next stage, processing and decoration of the manufactured structure is carried out. In this case, it is recommended to adhere to the following plan:

  • processing the coating with sandpaper or a grinding machine;
  • impregnation of wood with an antiseptic. The first layer should dry well. Then the processing is repeated;
  • the canvas is covered with a special putty, which can be replaced with a primer. In this case, the canvas is processed 2 times. But each applied layer must dry well. This will take about 2 days;
  • for finishing coatings apply paint, varnish, stain. The stain must be applied over the primer. Taking into account the desired shade, the appropriate number of layers of stain is applied. It will take 4 hours for each layer to dry. To fix the result, the stain is covered with two layers of varnish.

For finishing the door, paint, varnish, stain are used