How to make a drain pit with your own hands: technological rules and little tricks. Drain pit: what and how to build a drain pit in the country with your own hands

In most cases, sewerage in the country is not provided. Instead, a cesspool is used. There are quite a few options for its construction, and each has both its advantages and disadvantages. Next, consider in detail standard designs cesspools and analyze how to install them.

What is a drain pit and why is it needed

drain hole, or as it is also called a cesspool, is necessary for private houses that do not have a direct sewer supply. The right drain pit recycles waste, allowing some substances after processing to soak into the ground without harm to it.

Popularity of this type treatment plant is caused by ease of installation and speed of work. One person without assistants is able to complete all the work within 3-5 days, depending on the type of construction.

On the other hand, there are certain difficulties associated with the further operation cesspool. First of all, this concerns the issue of pumping sewage. Equally important is the correctly selected volume of the pit.

Drainage pit device

The simplest structures that are most often found in rural houses and simple summer cottages- is digging into the ground old barrel or a tank that has served its time. Such a design will allow for the collection and partial filtration of wastewater, provided that their daily amount does not exceed 1 m³. Such schemes have not received approval from the sanitary services, as they can harm the environment.

The simplest drain pit in a private house is a simple design. Through the sewer pipe, although direct flow is often encountered, sewage enters a container, the bottom of which is covered with silt. The drain pit should be equipped with a gas outlet pipe through which the methane generated during the waste processing process will go outside.

Such a system is completely unsuitable for those houses in which it is planned permanent residence. Taking into account the fact that the average daily water consumption for a family of four people is up to 1 cubic meter, this leads to the need for frequent cleaning of the cesspool, and, accordingly, to financial costs. Previously, a ubiquitous method of removing sewage into the soil with their subsequent natural filtration was widespread, but in the current realities, this method, for obvious reasons, is prohibited by the sanitary service.

However, this design is quite common, and there will be no special alternatives for summer cottages with infrequent attendance. It is easy to equip it on your own, but you need to consider the following points:

The walls of the pit will require strengthening, as the water will gradually collapse the structure. To prevent this, they install a tank, or they build walls of brickwork or concrete rings.
The volume of the cesspool should be at least three cubic meters. The correct calculation is made taking into account the fact that each person will need at least one cubic meter of space.
Installed ventilation will increase the rate of waste recycling.
If an overflow pit is being equipped, then it practically does not need to be cleaned, since its design assumes the presence of several chambers for waste processing. In this case, sewage enters the first chamber, in which they accumulate. After the level of sewage reaches the overflow partition, they will flow into the second pit and there they will already be absorbed into the ground. The solid waste remains in the first pit and is processed by the bacteria.

Types of drain holes

According to the type of execution, cesspools are divided into:

concrete storage,
brick,
with a receiving container
temporary
with timber formwork,
without a bottom, with the output of waste moisture directly into the ground.

We make a drain hole from concrete

It is a pre-fabricated solution for receiving sewage and has the following advantages:

Construction speed. In fact, with a set of factory-made concrete rings, such a structure is built in one day. There is only one drawback - for work you will need crane or excavator.
Reliability and durability of concrete.
Minimum installation complexity.

Such a structure is being erected quickly:

First, a hole of the planned depth is dug.
The site is then levelled.
Using a crane, the first ring is installed.
The soil from under the ring is evenly removed, while exposing signal supports that prevent the structure from skewing.
After the second ring was installed on the first ring, they are fastened together with metal brackets.

The installation is continued in the same way to the planned depth.

When all the rings have been placed, install with a crane concrete floor with holes made in it for the hatch and ventilation pipe. The finished structure should rise above the ground at a level of at least 30 cm.

To provide her with better tightness, all seams and the junction with sewer pipe carefully close up bituminous mastic.

The problem of the hermetic design will be its rapid filling, and the need for frequent calls for sewage services, which will pump out sewage. In the same case, if the withdrawal of water into the ground is allowed, then rings with holes made are purchased. The installation technology is no different from the above.

To give the finished structure a more complete look in terms of aesthetics, you need to sprinkle with earth the part protruding above the soil surface. drain system, while providing planting with plantings that will perform a decorative function. For example, planting an undemanding Mauritanian lawn will turn purification plant in a flower bed.

Brick drain hole

According to experts, the best option will be the use of ceramic bricks, which will ensure the strength and durability of the structure. The process of building a drain pit made of bricks is conditionally divided into several stages:

in a hole dug to the required depth, a drainage layer 20 cm thick is placed, consisting of sand and crushed stone of different fractions,
after that, they begin to build walls, laying bricks in a checkerboard pattern, taking into account a gap of 5 cm between them for better filtration waste materials,
on all sides, bricks, as the masonry grows, are lined with crushed stone of large fractions,
in the masonry make the necessary clearance for inserting a sewer pipe.

There are often conflicting recommendations about the final step. For example, to reduce costs, it is proposed to perform masonry half a brick thick, but it is important to remember that such a design will hardly take the weight of the concrete closing cover.

The design itself provides for two options for laying bricks:

down to ground level
80 cm below ground level.

In the case of laying bricks to ground level, space must be left, taking into account the thickness of the closing cover made of concrete. The recommended design with the completion of masonry, not reaching the ground by 80 cm, raises some doubts about its appropriateness for a number of reasons:

since the design will require the installation of a closing cover, then in the end the drain will still be deepened into the ground by at least 50 cm - which is dangerous by a possible fall into the pit,
it is advised to fill the cover with earth to the surface level, but in this case either access to the hatch will be blocked, or another pipe will have to be mounted on the installed cover larger diameter than the dimensions of the cover - in which case the system will be subjected to additional load.

Masonry is inferior to concrete in a number of factors:

a concrete structure is erected noticeably faster and ultimately requires less funds to the building,
brick is more susceptible to moisture,
to evenly distribute the load on the walls, the cesspool should have a cylindrical shape.

The expediency of erecting brickwork is manifested only when it is not possible to call heavy trucks.

Receiving containers made of plastic

If the question of how to make a drain pit without resorting to special costs is acute, then you need to pay attention to the option of installing a polymer tank of the required capacity. In this case, all work boils down to the fact that the required amount of earth is dug under the tank, and then the collection is placed in the prepared hole. After that, the remaining space is filled with soil. It is important to remember that sealed structures in without fail require the installation of a gas outlet.

Among the advantages are the following:

ease of construction
minimum costs in terms of labor intensity,
protection of air from escaping bad smell,
the durability of the polymer material, which is up to 50 years,
during use, no waste substances enter the soil.

Of the minuses, you need to pay attention to the need for periodic pumping of sewage and the small capacity of the tank, so this option is optimal for use in low load conditions. For example, if the cottage is visited once a week, and a small amount of waste goes into the drain pit.

Temporary drain holes

They are made from used car tires. It is important to consider that the inner diameter must be at least a meter, otherwise the pit will quickly become clogged with sewage. In fact, the construction is easy to build: a hole of the required depth and diameter is pulled out, after which it is filled with tires, laying them one on one to the ground level.

Among the advantages of the design are the following:

ease of work
low price of waste tires,
after laying, the empty space is filled with earth, and no additional finishing not required.

It is worth remembering that the design is suitable for a toilet placed outside and not connected sewer system with the house. Since it is assumed that the load on the pit will be negligible. Despite its name, with infrequent use, such a pit will last up to 25 years.

Drainage pit with timber formwork

Like the previous design, the use of wood is suitable as a temporary solution. In fact, this option is still sometimes used in rural areas and in some summer cottages, but due to the fact that wood, even with high-quality processing will not last more than ten years - use wooden formwork doesn't make much sense. Nevertheless, this is a drain pit, the price of which will be the most acceptable and will not exceed 3000-4000 rubles.

Of course, the speed of erection and isolation of the soil from sewage are the advantages of the design, but nevertheless, it is inferior to all varieties of a cesspool and for the most part serves as a relic of the past.

Drain hole without a bottom

It is a cesspool constructed of bricks, with the difference that the bottom of the drain is not processed. In some cases, the bottom covers metal mesh, but in chemical aggressive environment it quickly rusts and loses its suitability. Impurities evenly fall into the ground, but due to the strong silting of the bottom of the pit, additional cleaning is periodically required.

In addition to the above, when arranging a cesspool, you need to pay attention to some tips to increase processing efficiency and ensure greater durability of the structure:

Drainage of the bottom of the pit is best done using coarse gravel to prevent premature silting. The layer thickness must be at least 10 cm.
To improve drainage, asbestos pipes are inserted at the bottom, which are installed with a ledge at a level of 50 cm from the bottom.
It is better to finish the walls with clay to reduce the concentration of hit harmful substances into the ground.
In the event that there is one cesspool on the site, but its volume is not enough, it is more expedient to arrange another one nearby and connect PVC pipe from the first. In this case, the structure will become overflow and will need to be cleaned much less frequently.
From the first moment of use it is necessary to apply special preparations containing bacteria. They speed up the natural recycling process and reduce odor.
The overlap should extend above ground level so that in the event of heavy rain, the drain pit does not overflow with water and its contents do not fall into the area.
In any embodiment, the design must contain exhaust pipe to remove accumulations of methane and other dangerous substances.
Inorganic substances, including low quality toilet paper- can significantly reduce the service life of the structure and contribute to strong silting of the surface.

If not near the house centralized sewerage, then as a solution to the problem, we can consider the arrangement of a cesspool. In any house where there is a supply of hot and cold water supply, there is a problem of collecting and discharging sewage.

A cesspool is the easiest sewer option in a private or country house, which you can do with your own hands.

Where should the cesspool be located?

To start, need to decide on a location on which the cesspool system will be equipped.

directly on the site adjacent to a private or country house;
arrangement is possible at a distance of at least 10 meters from the foundation of a residential building and other buildings on the backyard territory and to structures located in the neighborhood;

Important! This requirement It is based on the fact that with a closer installation of a leaky pit without pumping out, the destruction of the foundations of nearby buildings, as well as their flooding, is possible.

the distance from the pit to the fence is also regulated and must be at least one meter;
depth should not be more than 3 meters. When choosing, you need to consider the depth of passage groundwater;
the pit must be at a certain distance (25 meters) from drinking wells.

Given distance depends on the type of soil in the backyard:

At clay soil- no closer than 20 meters;
With loamy soil - no closer than 30 meters;
With sandy and sandy soil - a cesspool cannot be installed closer than 50 meters from the well.

Do-it-yourself cesspool device

There are two main types of pit arrangement:

sealed;
plain without a bottom.

The option of arranging sewage in a country or private house is determined by the location of the territory, the daily amount Wastewater and material capabilities of the owner of the site:

if the daily amount of sewage is not more than one cubic meter, it is possible to build a simple system without a bottom and without pumping. In a pit of this type, effluents partially go into the ground, in which they are cleaned by anaerobic bacteria. An example of this cesspool is the classic rural toilet;
with a large amount of wastewater (more than a cubic meter), the construction of a sealed structure is required, which needs to be pumped out from time to time.

This requirement is explained by the fact that in the absence of a bottom in the pit, waste water passes into the ground and cleaning is carried out by microorganisms located in the depths of the earth. But their cleaning capabilities are not unlimited.

At large quantities wastewater microorganisms can not cope with the purification of water. In this case, wastewater will begin to pollute the adjacent area and it is possible that they will pass into the water-bearing soil layers with further contamination of the drinking well.

If disposal is required a large number wastewater, you can consider the arrangement of a septic tank with filtration fields.

Do-it-yourself ordinary sewer

The simplest waste system is done like this:

digging a pit up to two meters deep, two meters wide and up to three meters long;
the walls of the earth are laid or fixed;
a layer of crushed stone is poured down;
a protective cover with a cover is installed on top.

The main advantages of a pit without a bottom:

ease of operation;
low cost of construction and operation;
simple and quick DIY construction.

Disadvantages of a pit without a bottom:

groundwater level must be below the level of the sewage system;
not suitable for sewerage of a large amount of sewage water;
environmentally unsafe;
possible unscheduled filling due to rainwater;
has an unpleasant odor.

Sealed waste pit

A sealed sewage system is a sealed container where sewer water is pumped out through pipes. As the tank fills, sewage water must be pumped out with a special machine.

The main advantages of a sealed system:

the installation site does not depend on the type of soil on the site;
does not depend on the passage of groundwater;
environmentally friendly, sewage water does not enter the environment.

Cons of sealed design:

there is a smell if the drive is made in the form of a well;
monthly expenses(you need to periodically call a sewage truck for pumping);
relatively high construction cost.

What to build a drain pit with your own hands

Consider different types and ways to design drain systems that you can do yourself. They are conditionally divided into permanent and temporary.

From car tires

If you need a flush system for a toilet in a country house with minimal cost, you can make it yourself using old car tires.

It's fast and a budget option construction of a sewer pit. The design is pretty simple. A pit is being made, where old tires are stacked one on top of the other. A layer of crushed stone is poured on the bottom of the pit, if desired, the tires are sealed with a clay lock.

Advantages:

if necessary, easily restored;
durability;
speed, simplicity and low cost of construction.

Flaws:

tires rot over time;
possibility negative impact on the environment at high load to the building;
rapid siltation with insufficient cleaning and pumping out, as a result, useful area is lost.

From concrete rings

It's another way rapid construction drain system. Its design is similar to a well. Rings are stacked on top of each other. The connections between them, if desired, are sealed with a cement screed.

By its design, a sewer pit made of concrete rings refers more to hermetic structures. That's why you need to pump it regularly. Although there is an option to install a septic tank from concrete rings.

Main advantages:

convenience of the device of a protective cover with the hatch;
durability;
the possibility of building with your own hands;
relatively low cost.

Flaws:

the possibility of an unpleasant odor from the ventilation pipes;
the need for periodic pumping;
laborious installation.

Drainage pit made of bricks

This is the most successful and best option if you need a drain system for a toilet or bath in a country house.

Advantages:

ease of construction - almost any summer resident can handle bricklaying for a drain pit;
environmental friendliness - the contents of the drain structure are periodically pumped out by a sewage machine.

Flaws:

siltation. It is possible to prevent silting with the help of constant pumping out of the liquid in the storage tank;
relatively short service life (up to 20 years), as a result of the destruction of bricks in adverse conditions drain system;
Periodically, an unpleasant odor is likely to form. The use of various preparations that accelerate the processes of waste decomposition and timely pumping out of the drive can help to cope with this.

Construction of a brick pit

First you need to decide on the installation site of the drain pit, observing all the rules and taking into account ease of use.

We choose a design. Given the purpose, a drain brick pit can be rectangular, square or round.

We calculate the required volume, dimensions and prepare the pit for the pit.

With a rectangular design, we tilt the bottom towards the installation of the hatch. Pour at the bottom of the hole sand cushion, a layer of 20 cm and fill it cement mortar. You can take ready-made iron concrete slab required sizes. A cement screed is made on top.

We do wall laying. Optimal Thickness walls - 30 cm. It is advisable to lay the walls in a checkerboard pattern in half a brick. Laying in a quarter of a brick is possible.

Then, when the walls are ready, you need to process them with bituminous mastic or make clay castle from the outside for better sealing. If necessary, then plaster the inner surface.

Installation of the hatch and ceiling

Then, when the base of the drain pit is ready, we install a ceiling with a hatch. Overlap is required not less than 50 cm close the hole around the perimeter.

In the role of overlap, concrete slabs are chosen or logs are carefully laid. When arranging the cesspool floor, it is necessary to provide a location for the hatch. The hatch is made in the size of 70 cm.

On top of the stele overlap, waterproofing from a film or roofing felt. We cover the waterproofing with a layer of slag or soil measuring 0.5 m.

Attention! To protect against the appearance of a smell from the drain pit and its freezing, the hatch into the pit is installed double. Top cover located on the surface of the earth, and the other at the level of the overlap. Appeared space in the bow is filled thermal insulation materials(slag, expanded clay, polystyrene, etc.).

Sewer pit from a barrel

it great option do-it-yourself arrangement of water drains with natural cleaning cesspool with small amounts of wastewater (up to 1 cubic meter).

Barrel preparation:

we use a 200 liter barrel, best of all from a material that does not corrode, we make holes in the wall in a checkerboard pattern for drainage with a drill or grinder. It is desirable to make holes with a distance of 15-25 centimeters;
we tightly fasten a pipe to the bottom of the barrel for connecting a drain pipe. To ensure sealing, you can use silicone sealants. We process the connection area of the pipe with mastic;
we wrap the barrel with geotextile and firmly fasten it with twine. This is necessary to ensure that the tank is protected from soil and other foreign particles entering its structure while maintaining normal drainage.

Installation of a cesspool sewer system:

we make a trench and lay sewer pipes, certainly with a slope;
we prepare a pit with a depth and size slightly higher than the depth of the barrel;
down the pit we fall asleep gravel or gravel with a layer of 20 cm;
we put a barrel on this pillow and connect the drain pipe;
the resulting space between the walls of the pit and the container is filled with gravel or gravel;
We connect the sewer pipe to the installed pipe.

Now the sewer pit for your bath is ready. You can also make a drain hole for the toilet with your own hands.

As an option for arranging a sewer home system you can consider the device of a cesspool concrete drain pit.

Stages of construction of a concrete pit:

Using this technology, you can also make a drain hole for the toilet with your own hands.

Summarizing

There are quite a few options to build a drain cesspool yourself. Choosing a specific solution, taking into account specific conditions and material opportunities. You can also consider installing a septic tank or buying a ready-made kit for arranging a drain pit.

Living in an apartment, you probably don’t think about how underground sewage works. You do not need to worry about pumping out the pit and in general about its presence. But life in the countryside is a completely different matter. When installing a bathroom or toilet, you need to make sure that the drain pit is not only roomy, but also properly made.

And then the question arises, but how, so that in a year it does not crumble? We suggest you read the article to the end and find out the answer.

Location selection

Before building a pit, you need to decide on a place and take into account some of the nuances. Firstly, important rule, which cannot be neglected is the distance from the house or fence to the finished structure. It should be at least 5 m, but 7-8 m is better.

Secondly, to pump out the pit, they resort to the services of vacuum trucks (if you have not bought a special pump, which we will talk about) and, naturally, the car needs access. Therefore, build the structure as close to the gate as possible, if possible. But in pursuit of convenience, do not forget about the mandatory five meters.

Thirdly, consider the presence of wells or wells on the site. If they are, then the distance between the pit and the well should be at least 30 meters. Concerning ground water, then this is not a decisive factor in choosing a place. The type of pit depends on their presence.

Types of pits for draining

Despite their simplicity, they can be of three types:

Two-chamber. It consists of two chambers connected by an overflow. In this case, the first will be sealed, and the second - filtering. Pipes coming from the house carry waste, which is separated in the process - solid inclusions fall to the bottom, and the liquid is transferred to the second chamber and filtered into the ground.
Sealed. This type of cesspool is the most environmentally friendly, because all waste is stored in a pit and waiting until it is pumped out. But along with this, this plus turns into a minus, because you have to constantly pump out the pit.
Filtering. Such a pit can only be built if overall size waste per day does not exceed 1 cubic meter. In other cases, according to sanitary standards, it is necessary to build pits of the first type.

Whichever hole you choose, sooner or later it will need to be cleaned. In order to simplify this process, use processing biopreparations.

Scope and choice of building materials

The drain pit in a private house should be roomy so that you do not have to pump it out every week. It is impossible to calculate its exact size, because it all depends on how much water is spent on washing, washing dishes, hygiene procedures And so on. But there are certain rules from which you can build on.

For example, if three people live in a family on a permanent basis, then the size of the pit should be 6 cubic meters.

Separately, it is worth talking about the material with which the drain pits are lined.

Typically the following is used:

Concrete;
Brick;
concrete rings;
Plastic.

In the first case, a formwork is built into which concrete mortar. In order for the pit to be stronger, do not forget about reinforcement. The thickness of the bottom and concrete walls should be at least 6-7 cm. Using plastic is the easiest option. Enough to dig a hole and install plastic container the corresponding diameter. But there is one downside. Plastic, under the pressure of the soil, can be deformed and to avoid this, the pit still needs to be concreted. In addition, you need to install special loops to which the tank is attached.

Brick is the best option for those who live in a private house or have a summer cottage. Pit lined with ceramic brick, serves for a long time and does not collapse under pressure, but under the condition correct masonry. Also, do not forget about the filtration slots, the size of which should be 4-6 cm. Concrete rings are also not a bad option, but installing them yourself will not work. At a minimum, you need a crane or a few helpers. Usually 2-3 rings are used for pits, but it all depends on the size.

Knowing the above information, let's talk about how to make a drain hole with your own hands.

Construction stages

The first step is to dig a hole of the appropriate size. Its shape can be both square and cylindrical. Usually, try not to dig holes more than 2 meters wide, but this is discussed in individually.
After the hole is dug, you need to level the walls so that they do not crumble.
The third stage is the piping. Important nuance, this is the slight inclination of the pipe necessary for the fluid to drain by gravity. If the pipe has a diameter of 100 mm, then the slope is 20 mm. If the diameter is 160 mm, then 10.
After the pipes are installed, 10-20 cm of sand or gravel should be poured into the bottom of the pit. Then, pour the “pillow” with water and tamp a little. If the pit is a filtration pit, then we leave it that way. And if it is sealed, then the bottom must be concreted or a concrete slab laid.
Next, the walls are strengthened by the method you have chosen: brick, plastic, and so on.
If your pit is airtight, then after strengthening, you need to carry out waterproofing work.
The pipeline is connected.
The cover is installed.

This topic is completely uninteresting to a city dweller sitting in his apartment in high-rise building. She is also not interesting to the inhabitant of a luxurious mansion.

It is for lovers of country life or for people living in own houses no amenities. They themselves need to think about the arrangement of acceptable conditions for their lives. Let's try to consider the construction of drain pits. The simplest drain pits that provide acceptable sanitary norms life.

Arrangement of a drain pit

Before starting construction, it is necessary to determine the height of the groundwater level. This is very important point. If it is high, that is, the waters lie quite close to the surface of the earth, it will not work to make a deep hole. Generally high level minus for the construction of such a pit.

An area with such an occurrence of water may be subject to flooding in the spring when the snow melts, or even during heavy rains, the pit will overflow, and its contents will spill over the area, which is very unpleasant and fetid.

Useful information ! You can make a hole 2.5 meters deep if the groundwater is below 8 meters.

The stages of building a drain pit are as follows:

First, a place is chosen where it will be located. Everything is considered - the distance from the house, from the water intake, neighbors, the height of the area.
Next, consider its volume. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the size of the tank of the sewage truck, if there is an intention to call it in the future.
Materials for construction, their varieties are selected.
The construction itself, the direct erection of the structure.
Giving a civilized appearance to the territory near the pit, its arrangement.

If there are financial and other opportunities, you need to hire an excavator, he will dig a hole in a couple of hours. And if there is strength free time If you want to save money, you can do this work yourself. How long this will take is unknown.

Useful information! The distance from the pit to the house should not be small, the smallest is 5 meters, but more is better if possible.

When choosing the size of the pit before its construction, the following factors must be considered:

How often do they live in the house - year-round or only in the summer season.
The number of people living in the house matters.
Required amount water per day per person. 200 liters per day is the norm, but it is very approximate.

After calculating the volume, you can lay the pipeline. Pipes should go with a noticeable slope, 7 centimeters per meter of pipe, that is, the dependence here is such that the longer the pipe, the greater the slope.

There are two types of pits - airtight and without a bottom. Of course, each of them has its own characteristics that should be considered.

Drain hole without a bottom

it simplest form drain hole. The liquid from such a pit gradually goes into the ground, solid waste is pressed. When the pit is full, it is buried and built elsewhere. Or call services to clean the pit.

With such a pit, the daily discharge into it should not exceed cubic meter. Such a pit cannot be placed above the water intake or on the same line with it, its waters can get into drinking water.

It should be no closer than 50 meters from all water intakes. Of course, this is a very problematic hole. All restrictions must be met, since it is necessary to protect the environment, and pollution of groundwater and soil is a crime that is punishable by a large fine.

In no case should there be a well near such a pit, as it will certainly be polluted. These pits are simple, do not require special expenses, but, for obvious reasons, are rarely used, they leave our lives.

Sealed drain pit

Such a pit can be made of concrete, brick, wood, concrete rings, all this is perfect. After construction, it is carefully waterproofed.

Despite the fact that this is also a very simple and affordable device, it is already much better, as it eliminates infection. environment. There is no need to worry about the water in the water intake, and besides, it does not matter at what height the groundwater occurs. Provided good waterproofing, and this is easily achievable, the pit can be built to any depth.

Varieties of pits with a sealed bottom:

Brick pits. Naturally, a pit is being dug. Its bottom is well compacted, and then filled with a mixture of cement, sand, gravel and water. After the bottom hardens well, the walls of the pit are lined with bricks. An old, used brick is also quite suitable. You can also use ceramic bricks, it is more reliable, you can and successfully - natural stone. Then a roofing material is placed between the ground and the masonry. It serves as additional waterproofing. And the remaining space between the ground and the roofing material is filled with a solution of concrete.
Drainage pit made of reinforced concrete rings. Here you can not do without a crane. You can dig a hole in advance and use a crane that will unload the rings brought after the purchase, that is, lay them immediately at the future place of service. The joints between the rings must be sealed with cement. The number of rings is calculated based on the depth of the pit and the height of the ring. The usual height is 1 meter. Such pits are very reliable and serve for a long time. This is their main advantage.
Pit from a plastic tank. This is a very convenient, but the most expensive option. Tanks are completely ready, sealed. They are very durable and have a long service life. Great option!

Some craftsmen build pits from barrels, cutting off the bottom, using the bodies of washing machines that have served their time, stacking old car wheels on top of each other, full of imagination.

There are pits with a double drain. For example, for draining from a bath or bathroom - without a bottom, and from the kitchen and toilet - a sealed pit. It is convenient and more economical.

The pit needs to be cleaned from time to time. To do this, it is possible different ways.

Call for sewage equipment. The pleasure is quite expensive. It is often unlikely that you will be able to use this service. And so, please call, they will come at a convenient time. It is imperative to provide a good entrance so that the driver is comfortable and the flower beds are not damaged. If the pit is very deep, it will not be possible to clean it completely, the length of the machine hose will not be enough.
The use of biological products. Under the influence of these drugs, waste and waste products decompose into odorless water and solid. The liquid can be pumped out with a special fecal pump and even used as fertilizer. Cleansing bacteria come in the form of powder, tablets, liquid. Instructions are attached to them without fail, according to which it is necessary to act. They do not fall asleep in an empty pit, they will simply die there without food. The preparations are septics and antiseptics, it is impossible to say that they are cheap. They will not completely clean the pit, anyway, occasionally, however, you will have to call the sewers and ask for their help.

Everyone can choose for himself the most suitable way to clean the drain pit in his area.

The business of the owner is whether to build a drain pit on the site. One has only to say that the method of the device autonomous sewerage there is no easier way in the area. Opponents of this method talk about the smell, the risk of flooding, very fast filling and the cost of cleaning. In general, we repeat, everyone decides for himself.

The presence of a drain pit in a personal subsidiary plot is a convincing evidence of the ever-increasing introduction into our lives of moderately comfortable and quite functional autonomous systems life support. The sewerage system built on the basis of such a pit provides, as you know, the discharge of used water and sewage, without which, without arrangement, normal functioning household farming would be impossible.

Location selection

Do-it-yourself work on making a drain pit should begin with the preparation of its location, which should be selected taking into account the following conditions:

The level of location of groundwater in a given area does not have a special influence on the choice of the location of the pit; this indicator can only affect the type of structure being built (pit with filter drainage or a completely sealed structure).

Note! If wells and wells are located near the proposed location of the pit, the minimum distance to them should be at least 30 meters.

Waste tank volume

Before preparing a place for a drain pit, it is also necessary to correctly calculate its working volume. This parameter is usually determined by a number of factors and depends on the frequency of use. economic services in the house and bath, as well as from total number permanent residents of your home.

Appearance

It is estimated that up to 0.5 cubic meters should be allocated per person on average. meters of the volume of the drain pit, although most often such a calculation gives only a rough estimate. This calculated indicator can also be affected by the quality of the soil at the site of the pit preparation (loam, for example, delays the filtration of drain water, which will require a larger supply in volume).

In addition, due to the impregnation of the soil with the fatty components of the waste, over time it may completely stop accepting effluents. That is why the volume of the drain pit should be chosen with a good margin (for a family of three, for example, the estimated volume should be at least 6 cubic meters).

The choice of material and shape of the tank

When preparing a tank for a drain pit, the following building materials can be used:

ordinary brick;
modern plastic material;
concrete rings.

As a basis for the tank, you can also use any container that is suitable in size, namely: a barrel with a knocked out bottom, a body from washing machine or stacked car tires.

The shape of the drain pit is chosen, as a rule, based on the selected container. Experience shows that the most efficient shape is the cylinder, which has more mechanical strength and allowing to evenly distribute the load on the walls of the tank.

Note! Cubic tanks are significantly inferior to cylindrical tanks, since they cannot withstand increased loads due to the uneven distribution of the latter over the surfaces of the structure.

Pit made of ceramic bricks

Ceramic brick is considered the most suitable material for the manufacture of containers for a drain pit, since it has an increased service life and resists dampness well. brick work usually begin with the preparation of a pit with pre-calculated dimensions.

Under the brick, you can arrange the lightest foundation, recruited from scrap stones or rubble, for example. The walls are usually laid out in half a brick, which will allow you to save on material (taking into account the small gaps between the ends that are left to filter wastewater).

After laying several crowns, you can make drainage bedding, placed in the gap between the walls of the drain pit and brickwork and which is a mixture of crushed stone, pebbles and construction debris (its height rarely exceeds 20-30 cm).

Note! The walls of the brick pit should be brought to a mark located approximately 80 cm below the soil level. At this level, the well formed is closed reinforced concrete slab factory-made, acting as an overlap.

In this concrete structure a special hatch must be provided, which is necessary for filling the hose of a sewage machine that pumps out solid fractions of sewage. The hatch must be equipped with a reliable cover that excludes the possibility of an accident (children falling into a pit, for example). From above, the overlap can be covered with the remaining earthworks soil and, in order to improve the site, arrange a flower bed at this place.

Reservoir made of concrete rings

Drain accumulator for suburban area can also be made from standard reinforced concrete blanks, designed in the form of rings. A settling pit made of reinforced concrete rings must be constructed using special lifting equipment, so that in this case without the help of specialists you can not do.

Work in this case is carried out in the following sequence:

First, the first ring is installed in a pre-prepared pit, which, after sampling excess soil, will gradually settle into the ground (under its own weight).
Then, on top of this ring, a second annular blank is installed with the same landing size. (Thanks to the protrusions on the edges of the rings, they can be connected to each other and as a result, a one-piece structure can be obtained).
The soil should be selected until the entire structure of the rings completely settles into the ground.
To get a full-fledged drain pit, 2 or 3 rings are usually enough (their number depends on the planned depth of your catchment area).

Further operations are performed in the same order as described for the brick pit. Special attention it should be noted at that moment that the last (upper) ring should rise above the soil level by at least 20-30 cm.