Make an absorption pit. How to dig a drain hole correctly, given the required depth. Advantages of wooden cesspools

Having suburban housing, owners often face such a problem as arranging a sewerage system. The most popular way to solve problems is to dig cesspools. But how to do it right, and what is a cesspool? It is important to understand all this, then it will be easier to find the right solution.

Types of cesspools for a private house

In the classic version, septic tanks are built mainly from bricks, concrete, and even used tires. There are several varieties:

without a bottom, while sewage falls directly into the ground;
sealed pit;
a septic tank in which specially grown microbes are engaged in the decomposition of effluents.

For the case when the daily volume of waste is small, it is enough to dig a good hole without a bottom. The owners of clay plots mainly use a hermetic septic tank. The third method is perfect, but requires care and investment of money.

Important! Untreated fluids can cause contamination as well as health problems if they enter the groundwater.

Settling tank type selection

When choosing a cesspool scheme in a private house, one should take into account such points as:

groundwater depth;
the number of inhabitants;
water consumption of household appliances;
location of the house and household. buildings;
type of soil.

The question remains how to properly make a cesspool.

Before drawing up a scheme, you need to decide on its volume in accordance with the number of people living in the house. The hole should be dug:

up to 3 meters deep, otherwise it will be impossible to perform high-quality cleaning of the pit;
width - up to 2 meters.

According to building codes and regulations, the distance from the residential building should be at least 5 meters, from the fence of the site - at least 2 meters.

Air exchange should be created using a ventilation pipe with a protrusion of 600 mm above the ground. This will avoid the accumulation of gases resulting from the decomposition reaction. The pit should have access to a sewage truck for removal in case of waste overflow.

The brick walls of the pit are plastered inside. The arrangement of a treatment facility without concreting the bottom is prohibited by the rules, if only the waste volume per day is not more than 1 cubic meter. meters.

The location of the cesspool is chosen individually. In this regard, the following are taken into account:

relief features, soil type, location of buildings;
personal preferences;
convenience.

It is clear that the larger the cesspool, the less often it will need to be cleaned. The drinking well should not be located close to the cesspool.

Cesspool dug by hand

Sooner or later, all owners have to solve the problem of waste disposal. For a comfortable stay, it is required, at a minimum, to dig and equip a sewage pit. How to do it right, and where to start?

Preparation for work

The construction of a sump begins with the choice of a place for digging a hole;
It is necessary to take into account the possibility of entering the chamber to remove sewage;
Digging a pit for a drain hole next to the house is not allowed;
It is not advisable to use excessively long pipes for sewage;
It is important to have information about the location of groundwater and the maximum level of their rise in the off-season.

Important! In addition, if there is a well on the site, the distance between it and the cesspool should be at least thirty meters.

Construction of a cesspool without a bottom

If there are difficulties for the construction of a classic concrete septic tank, you can:

dig an ordinary hole and a ditch from the house to it;
lay the pipe in a trench at an angle;
find a barrel, make holes in it;
put the barrel upside down in the dug hole;
fill the ditch and septic tank with a layer of earth.

The volume of the barrel must satisfy the required amount of waste. The liquid in this case will seep into the ground and gradually compress. An overflowing pit will need to be cleaned out from time to time. It is easy to dig out such a cesspool near the house under a layer of earth to clean pipes in case of clogging. The method is simple and low-cost, but it is not always possible to use it, since groundwater can be polluted with a large amount of waste.

How to build a brick pit

Red brick is one of the most commonly used building materials for the construction of septic tanks. It has such properties as high environmental friendliness, moisture resistance, reasonable price. Therefore, it is used for cesspools in a private house. To build a two-section brick septic tank yourself, it is enough to learn how to prepare a binder solution and make brickwork.

The arrangement of a cesspool in a private house involves the consistent mastery of all the steps of the procedure.

Digging a pit

To install a cesspool, it will be necessary to dig a pit with a depth of no more than 3 m. Dimensions are calculated taking into account the fact that the recommended volume of a septic tank should be about 8-10 cubic meters. meters. You should also provide a distance for laying bricks, so another 10-20 cm is added to the width of the pit.

Foundation laying

Since one of the compartments of a two-section septic tank must have a sealed bottom, the concrete base is first poured. A foundation 20-30 cm thick is poured onto one part of the pit, lined with gravel. It is not recommended to build a foundation in winter. The best time to plant it is considered early spring. Hardening of concrete lasts 3-4 days.

Walling

Brick walls retain heat well and are durable. The jumper between the compartments is made of a material that does not corrode. To protect the intersection wall made of bricks, special waterproofing materials are used: bitumen or mastic. The walls are usually laid out in a rectangle (it can be in a semicircle). A gap of 5 cm is left between the ends of the brick for filtering.

Filling the tank

As the walls are ready and dry, you can do the covers for the tanks. In a two-section septic tank, there should be two of them. This will provide convenience in servicing each compartment. Hatches must be made of metal treated with an anti-corrosion compound. For work you will need:

welding machine,
materials and products - sheet metal, profiled pipes or corners.

A ventilation pipe must be built into the cover without fail. It is necessary to ensure the vital activity of aerobic bacteria that treat wastewater in the first compartment. The pipe must be completely sealed so that moisture does not enter the septic tank from the outside.

Important! The manhole cover should protrude 0.6 m above ground level so that surface water does not enter the septic tank.

sewer pit made of concrete

The drain pit can be made of concrete slabs. After determining the volume of the sump, it is required to dig a trench and lay pipes according to the scheme from a private house to a cesspool. In this case, the pipes should be laid at an inclination of approximately 3 degrees (4 cm per meter). It should be borne in mind that the longer the pipeline, the larger the angle should be. It is better to concrete the lower part of the sump.

In the upper part of the septic tank, it is necessary to provide a hole for the outlet of the ventilation pipe. Then the problem of smell from the waste pit will disappear by itself. A hatch is mounted on top of the pit for ease of maintenance.

Cesspool lined with wood

A septic tank lined with wood is produced in the form of boards knocked together in the form of formwork and can only be used if additional protective treatment is provided.

Advantages of wooden cesspools:

cheap price;
speed of building construction;
good soil isolation from sewage.

Such a pit, subject to high-quality wood processing, will last at least 10-15 years.

Homemade septic tank from eurocubes

Eurocube is a plastic container for storing and transporting liquids and solids. The container is placed in a frame made of metal rods. Its volume is 0.6-1 cubic meters. m. Their cost is low compared to other materials.

Advice. Before purchasing eurocubes, you can try to get them for free through industrial companies that receive materials in such containers. Given the costly disposal of bulky plastic containers, they are ready to get rid of them in any way. For owners of private houses, this method of obtaining containers will significantly reduce the cost of building a septic tank.

Features of the construction of a septic tank from eurocubes:

Mandatory fastening of the tank with cable ties to the concrete base, since the Eurocube is made of lightweight plastic and as a result of oversaturation of the soil or flooding, the tank may float to the surface;
High speed of construction of the treatment plant;
Ease of maintenance of a septic tank.

The cubes are made of PVC, so bioremediation agents must be added periodically to avoid the spread of bad odors.

For information. A country toilet with a cesspool made of eurocubes is the simplest design with which you can equip a latrine.

Instructions for building a tank from eurocubes:

Dig a trench for two cubic containers, fill them with water;
Use metal formwork to obtain a flat concrete surface for the base of the tanks;
Equip inlet and transition pipes for tanks. Drill holes with a diameter of 110 mm using an annular cutter. The inlet pipe is installed above the overflow level;
Ensure sealing of the inlet and outlet of all pipes;
To protect against freezing, the tanks are covered with sand and clay.

Cesspool for clay soil

A sewer pit in clay soil can often become silted, it is difficult to pass liquid. The optimal sewage cesspool in this case is a concrete base and a container installed on it. Particular attention is paid to sealing joints and seams.

For information. A cesspool is one of the most economical options for arranging sewage in a summer cottage or in the yard of a country house.

Features of installation on clay soil

Two methods are used for the qualitative implementation of the sewerage system on clay soil:

First of all, earthworks are being carried out to build a pit. Holes are then drilled at the bottom for perforated drainage pipes. Excess liquid will be removed into the ground faster, and the solid part of the sewage will remain at the bottom of the pit;
The second option is distinguished by the installation of a system for overflowing overflowing liquid from one pit to another. The trench connecting the two pits should have a slight slope.

Scheme of a sump from sewer tires

A septic tank made from tires is the most economical sewer option. Such a design of a drain pit in a private house is simple and no special skills are required for its construction. This wastewater treatment system is used when the septic tank is supposed to be used periodically and the volume of wastewater is small. It is also worth remembering that winter tires freeze, which makes it impossible to use the facility during the cold season. The device requires regular cleaning.

How to make a cesspool in a private house with your own hands from tires:

It is necessary to dig a hole slightly larger than the diameter of the existing tires. Fill the lower part with gravel in a layer thickness of 10-30 cm;
Set the tires on top of each other, securely fixing them together. Seal joints between tires;
The upper part of the septic tank must be equipped with a hatch.

Important! Failure to comply with sanitary standards when constructing sedimentation tanks is fraught with big problems: penalties from the relevant authorities, unpleasant odors, infection with infectious diseases.

Sanitary standards

In order to avoid future troubles during the construction of a cesspool, it is necessary to adhere to sanitary requirements. The distance from the pit to the water source should be more than twenty meters, from the house to the hatch - at least five meters. When arranging a pit, you need to take into account the margin, since the drains settle slowly, and the tank may overflow.

It is necessary to correctly determine the volume of the sump tank. According to the requirements for cesspools, the optimal rate for one person is 0.5 cubic meters. meters. However, more often additional operating conditions are provided (clay soil, frequent use of water, oil waste), in connection with this, the cesspool should be with some margin. If the family consists of three people with permanent residence, it is better to make a cesspool of about 6 cubic meters. m.

The choice of a septic tank option for installation in a private household depends on the available materials, labor costs, the volume of wastewater, and the type of soil. To collect wastewater, either sedimentation tanks are most often built, periodically emptied, or leaching cesspools - makeshift reservoirs from which liquids exit and solid particles are stored.

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The decision to make a cesspool yourself remains an ideal choice for a situation with the inability to connect to the central sewer. Such a structure solves the problem of ensuring the disposal of waste and sewage for a private house. The choice of this option is due to simple installation, easy maintenance and small financial investments necessary for construction and further operation.

The very device of this simplest and most ancient sewer system is a recess dug and equipped with walls in the ground, designed to collect and partially process wastewater. Partially filtered liquid enters the soil below, and the accumulated residue must be periodically removed so as not to overload the container.

A light wooden structure is installed above the recess. After filling the pit, the upper part is removed, and the remaining space is covered with earth. The accumulated elements go through the process of decay and turn into compost. Fruit trees planted here will thrive in a fertilized area. And you can use the new building.

But this method is clearly insufficient for the needs of a large building in which many people constantly live. In this case, for large volumes of waste, modern structures with walls made of various materials are needed. Most often for these purposes is used:

brick is a great masonry option even for beginners;
concrete rings, the delivery and laying of which requires special equipment;
cost-effective way of arranging from tires;
metal barrels that prevent shedding of side surfaces;
the use of ready-made plastic barrels has a long service life - more than 40 years.

Mention should be made of a convenient and modern option - the use of septic tanks. These products are made in multi- and single-chamber modifications. The most complete and deep cleaning of waste occurs in models equipped with several chambers. Purified water is suitable for watering vegetable gardens.

The cesspool device involves the installation of two types - sealed and filtering. In the first case, there is an accumulation of effluents until the time of their pumping. The second one provides for the presence of holes in the walls for partial penetration of waste into the ground. To carry out filtration around the tank, it will be necessary to lay a gravel-sand layer with a thickness of at least 15 cm.

According to the requirements of sanitary safety, there must be at least 1 m of soil from the bottom of the infiltrating type structure to the groundwater table.

The purpose of such a recess is drains from storm sewers and drainage.

With a large amount of household waste, there is always a risk of soil contamination, which can only be prevented by arranging a sealed system.

Principles of design and preparation of sewage pits

A carefully designed project and competent planning will help to avoid problems during the construction process in terms of existing norms and rules. First of all, attention should be paid to the most important points:

Safe location in terms of sanitary requirements.
The choice of the type of system depending on the specifics of the site and housing construction.
Decide on the dimensions of the recess.
Plan the production technology in advance.
Prepare appropriate materials.

Each of the items in the above list has its own nuances, the implementation of which is very important for safe and reliable operation.

The place where the structure will be located must necessarily be remote from fences, residential buildings, wells. From a drinking water tank, for example, the distance is maintained at least 25 meters, and from the house - starting from 5 meters.
With existing relief irregularities placement at the bottom of the site should be avoided. Flooding during periods of heavy rains and snowmelt threatens to contaminate the soil and groundwater. Construction technology is selected from the characteristics of the soil in the surrounding area.
Dimensions are primarily calculated taking into account the number of residents. For one person, a daily volume of 0.5-2.0 cubic meters is planned. m of drains. The need to pay for each call of equipment, with the help of which the cesspool is pumped out after it is filled, requires one more rule to be followed - to make the volume of the structure a multiple of the capacity of the sewage machine.
The task of diverting drains is solved using the technology of an eternal cesspool. The design feature of this method is the construction of two containers, interconnected by a special branch pipe under a certain slope. After filling the first tank, the liquid flows into the second. This technique allows you to significantly increase the area of \u200b\u200bsoil for water drainage, and only large fractions and feces will accumulate in the main pit.
A do-it-yourself cesspool of a hermetic design is a recess with a concreted bottom. The main advantage of such a device is the complete isolation of sewage and the absence of any odors on the site and in the house itself. But relative disadvantage is fast filling and frequent emptying, especially in the presence of washing machines and dishwashers, intensive use of the bathroom and shower.

A careless approach to planning and performing installation work threatens with the following consequences:

unpleasant "aroma" inside the building and on the site;
freezing of water residues inside sewers;
penetration of harmful substances into the soil.

Careful execution will create a favorable and comfortable environment for living and recreation. You only need to clean the cesspools on time and periodically monitor the condition of the system.

Let us consider in more detail the features of the construction of different types of such a sewer system.

Arrangement of a brick cesspool

as far as possible from any buildings;
take into account the direction of groundwater flow;
provide access for the sewer.

Sizes are always an individual choice. There is no doubt that a deeper device will require less frequent cleaning, but one should never forget the level of groundwater. Closer than 30 cm to them, you can not place the bottom.

How to make a cesspool if the water is close to its location?

In this case, there is simply no alternative to the sealed type of device. In the case of a shallow depth, you can increase the length dimensions or use a multi-tank design. But it is not recommended to dig more than 3 meters even in dry ground.

The standard option for a residential building with 4-5 people living in it is a depth and diameter of 3 meters.

Buy only red ceramic bricks. Silicate and cinder blocks will get wet pretty quickly and will be unusable. The best material is burnt brick, rejected for construction because of its irregular shape.

The construction process consists of several main stages:

Digging a pit is the most time-consuming procedure. With manual work, two people can dig a 1.5x3 m hole in sandy soil within a couple of days. But clay soil will cause a lot of difficulties and will require the use of hired workers or an excavator. The shape for the pit is usually chosen in the form of a glass with a slight expansion towards the top, giving additional reliability.
The foundation must begin with the process of backfilling the soil with gravel and sand. This layer is poured with concrete with preliminary laying of reinforcement. Usually the thickness of this layer is 15-20 cm and depends on the diameter of the pit.
Wall laying is done in half a brick with a size, and in brick - with a large diameter. The proportion of cement and sand in the mortar is usually 1:3 and 1:4. After completion of this stage, bituminous mastic is applied to the walls.
A ready-made pancake with a hatch hole of the appropriate size is used, as well as a self-poured lid.
At the end, the overlap is covered with a layer of earth with the location of the manhole cover slightly above ground level.

Video of arranging a cesspool made of bricks:

Over time, any structure becomes clogged. Various methods are used for cleaning. Biologics for latrines remain one of the best methods to ensure accelerated degradation of waste and increase the life of such sewer systems.

How to make a concrete cesspool

The use of such elements will be an ideal option for the safety of soil and plants located near the place where wastewater is stored.

In the usual version, 2-3 concrete rings with a diameter of 1.5 m and a meter height will be required. If a family of 3-4 people lives in the house, then to pump out the total volume of the structure of 4.5 cubic meters. m will have to call a special vehicle on average once a quarter.

How to make a cesspool in a private house from concrete rings - the sequence of installation work:

under the required slope below the freezing point of the soil, drain pipes leaving the building are laid and insulated;
a pit is dug with a width exceeding the diameter of the rings by 80-90 cm. A pillow of 30 cm of sand, fragments of brick or gravel is poured into the bottom of the recess;
a crane or winch will be needed to lower the concrete elements;
first place the ring with the bottom, using the building level to avoid distortions vertically and horizontally;
a waterproofing layer of bituminous mastic is applied to the inner surface and joints;
free space is filled up and carefully compacted;
a reinforced concrete slab is laid on the last ring and a metal or polymer cover is attached.

There is a high probability of accumulation of methane and sulfuric gas released during decay in the tank. For their output, a ventilation pipe with a diameter of 100 mm is installed.

How to make a concrete cesspool video:

Instructions for the manufacture of sealed and filtration cesspools

After selecting the area for the location of the drain tank and having all the calculations, earthworks can begin. With the help of earth-moving equipment or manually, a pit of the required dimensions is prepared. Usually, an excavator is involved for such events, but the specifics of the site do not always allow special equipment to drive to the required place.

In such a situation, you can apply the old tried and tested method - install one ring in place and start picking up soil from under the walls with a shovel. It is important to control the level of the product. After leveling the upper cut of the element with the level of the soil, another ring is set and the sampling of the earth continues in the same way.

To make a cesspool yourself, you will need to prepare materials for the walls, a formwork board and prepare the following components:

sand and cement the desired brand for mixing the solution;
crushed stone and rubble for the manufacture of a filtration layer;
rebar or rod useful for arranging the cover;
corner or suitable hatch metal with frame;
waterproofing materials;
suitable container and buckets for mortar;
mason's tools;
plumb line, building cord and level;
set of bayonet and shovel.

When working on a large scale, you can rent or ask neighbors for a concrete mixer.

Decoration of installation sites for cesspools

It will not be difficult to disguise the sewer from prying eyes because of the layer of earth with which it is covered. After that, there are many ways to decorate - sowing a lawn, laying out flower beds, planting shrubs. Sewer hatches are ennobled with stone and wooden elements. The owner of the site can show all his imagination and creative ingenuity in this process.

The photos below show examples of beautiful decor.

An excellent example of the manufacture of a luxurious lid, which is equipped with a septic tank for cesspools, can be viewed on the video:

How much does it cost to make a cesspool on the site

When determining the costs for the construction of a sewer collector, it should be assumed that the arrangement of a small capacity is not economically feasible. It is best to start calculating the total cost for devices from 3000 liters. Several major factors affect your financial investment. To make a cesspool whose price matches your capabilities, you should analyze the following parameters:

the cost of materials for the selected type of device;
prices for the services of specialists involved in the construction.

For example, let's take a cesspool structure of two rings of one and a half meters in diameter. A neck is supplied with these elements, the presence of which will allow you to completely hide the main part below the ground level.

If you order a turnkey installation, then the calculation includes:

A complete set of materials, including concrete preparation components, waterproofing and a manhole.
Delivery depending on the distance to the installation site.
Digging followed by backfilling of the pit.
Mounting measures for the installation of rings.
Concreting the bottom of the well.

At the moment, all these stages will cost the customer 30,900 rubles.

When performing such work on their own, professional builders recommend paying attention to the following points:

to fill a three-cube tank, about one and a half cubic meters of soil will be required. You can leave it, and take out the rest immediately after arranging the pit;
having concreted the bottom, let the mixture stand for 10-12 days to achieve optimal strength;
brickwork can not be done very smoothly. It is hidden from view and performs the main function - to restrain the soil from shedding;
for formwork, it is best to take a profiled sheet or board;
bayoneting the mixture used to fill the ceiling contributes to a good pouring of the reinforcing cage;
carefully tamp and level the soil around the entire perimeter and on top of the well.

An extensive choice of designs allows you to build a device according to financial capabilities and needs. One of the main conditions is the observance of sanitary standards in terms of protection against environmental pollution.

In the suburban area, I want to create the most comfortable living conditions.

There is usually no central sewerage in such areas.

There is no need to purchase and install expensive equipment, such as a septic tank.

Most people live in the country during the warm season. You can solve the problem with waste disposal by equipping a drain pit with your own hands.

Before starting the construction of a drain pit in the country, you should pay attention to the following factors

To determine the required volume of the drain pit, it is taken into account

The number of people living in the house. Average consumption 200l/day per person.
Accommodation. Permanent or temporary

Attention! a cesspool is dug no less than 5 meters from the dwelling and 25 meters from the water source.

There are two types of holes

without bottom
Sealed.

Pit for drains without a bottom

The simplest type of construction. Drains go into the ground on their own, waste and garbage are pressed. After operation, the pit is dug in and settled in a new place, or vacuum trucks are called, and pumping is performed.

Such a pit is not designed for a large amount of wastewater, a maximum of one cubic meter. This type of structure is not allowed to be installed above the water source. Drainage can spoil drinking water.

The main disadvantage of such pits is the mass of restrictions during construction. 50 meters from all water intakes, location level, groundwater accounting, distance from home, etc. for non-compliance with standards and pollution of groundwater, a large fine is charged.

Tire Pit:

A pit is being prepared with a depth of not more than 0.8 m.
The bottom is covered with large gravel, the layer thickness is 0.4 m
Tires are being prepared. The sides are aligned for a snug fit. On the last part of the wheel, a hole is made for the drain pipe.
Tires are installed one on top of the other, extremely evenly.
The pit is filled with soil and covered with a lid.

Pit from a plastic barrel:

Sealed pits

Such structures are much more reliable than the previous ones. Their installation does not depend on the occurrence of groundwater, they do not harm the environment. A pit is assembled from materials such as wood, concrete and concrete rings, brick. When the structure is ready, waterproofing is performed. Such a hole can be of any size.

Brick pit:

A pit breaks out
The bottom is covered with sand and gravel, well compacted and poured with cement mortar.
After solidification of the bottom. The walls are lined with bricks. You can use any brick, even second-hand or make laying of stone.
The outer side of the brick structure is waterproofed with roofing material.
The space between the roofing material and the ground is filled with concrete mortar.

Pit from reinforced concrete rings:

Installation is more labor intensive. A crane will be required to install the rings or an auxiliary structure is being built for this purpose.

The pit is being prepared
The rings are lowered and connected by grooves. The number of rings depends on the depth of the hole. The standard ring height is 1 m.
Joints are sealed with cement mortar.
The bottom is being equipped (the technology is the same for sealed pits)
The void between the rings and the ground is filled with soil.

The design has clear advantages - reliability and long service life.

plastic pit:

The structure is sold ready-made. Installed in a pit. Fall asleep with soil. Plastic is the most durable and reliable material.

Wood pit:

Installation is difficult. And wood is not a cheap material.

Concrete pit:

A pit of the desired size and depth breaks out
Assembling formwork
Poured with concrete
After the walls harden, the auxiliary structure is removed and the bottom is made.
After complete drying, the pit is ready.

Conclusion

Two-chamber home-made septic tanks are also being built.

Sometimes two types of drain pits are used in one area. Without a day for a shower, washbasin, bath, but sealed for the kitchen and toilet.

Attention!

For any type of pit, a hole is needed for the supply of a sewer pipe. Pipes are laid under a slope of 7 cm, to organize a good gravity flow.

Sealed pits are subject to periodic cleaning of solid sediment. Bacteria can be added to closed-type pits, and bioactivators can be added for better decay. You will have to call the vacuum cleaners much less often.

Pits made of concrete, concrete rings and bricks can be without a bottom.

Aerobic microorganisms can be added to drainage pits. They are of natural origin and do not harm the environment, help speed up the process of splitting, these bacteria require oxygen to work.

The operation of the plumbing, bathroom and toilet of a country house requires the arrangement of a competent system for collecting and discharging wastewater. And if, in the presence of a centralized sewage system, it is enough to obtain permission and make an insert into the communal system, then in the absence of the benefits of civilization near the site, the problem of waste disposal will have to be dealt with independently. Currently, there are options to address this issue, including factory cleaning systems, but the simplest option so far is the cesspool, a structure proven by more than one generation of homeowners. This type of sewage tank is good because it can be easily built with your own hands, and the emergence of new technologies and materials makes it possible to do this in record time.

Design features

Depending on the design, any cesspool can be attributed to filtration (absorbing) drain structures or sealed sewer tanks. Sewage collectors of the first type ensure the absorption of wastewater into the ground, where they are decomposed by microorganisms into water and organic matter, while the latter are storage tanks that require pumping and removal of domestic wastewater from the site.

The cost of arranging a cesspool will pay off handsomely: this structure will give an urban level of comfort even far from civilization

Many sources on the network claim that the choice of a particular design depends on the daily amount of waste being drained. The authors recommend using sealed cesspools with a volume of more than one cubic meter per day. We believe this statement is only partly true. Judge for yourself: the maximum depth of the structure is 4 m (otherwise the hose of the sewage truck will not be able to reach the bottom of the pit), while more than 1 m goes to deepen the sewer line. Therefore, about 3 m of usable height remains. Even if the pit has an impressive diameter and volume of 5-6 cubic meters, it will have to be pumped out at least once a week. The filtration design will make it possible to increase this interval by a third, especially since, if necessary, the process of pumping it out does not differ at all from servicing a sealed container. The only thing that can deter the construction of absorbent sewage pits is their low environmental friendliness, since a large amount of effluent can pollute aquifers. If the hydrology of the site, as well as its size and landscape features, allow the construction of a pit of any type, then the filtration system will be unrivaled.

A feature of absorbent sewer collectors is the presence of a drainage layer

Sewage pits without pumping are characterized by the presence of side walls and a floor slab, while instead of a bottom, a crushed stone pillow is equipped in the structure. Thanks to it, wastewater is filtered from large fractions of sewage and absorbed into the ground. Often, the walls of absorbent structures are perforated, which increases the absorbency of the pit. The cover of the structure prevents debris from entering the pit, avoids freezing of the sewer in winter and protects against the spread of unpleasant odors. A hatch is built in the upper part of the structure, through which the level of effluents is monitored and the pit is pumped out.

Design features of sealed and filtering sewage pits

The advantages of absorbing tanks are their simplicity and low cost. In addition, when using them, the operational interval between pumping out sludge and waste masses increases significantly. However, the presence of many shortcomings does not allow us to call this design ideal:

limited daily volume of wastewater;
the impossibility of building a structure with a high level of groundwater;
low degree of wastewater treatment;
decrease in filtration capacity during operation;
unpleasant odors around the building.

Despite these disadvantages, leaky cesspools attract with their simplicity and the ability to use materials that often remain during the construction of a country house.

A factory plastic container is one of the most durable and easiest ways to equip a sewer

Sewer pits of a sealed type are free from the disadvantages of absorbing structures, but require regular pumping of waste. They differ from filtration wells in that the bottom and walls of the tanks are made waterproof, and their design involves the installation of a ventilation riser. The construction technology of both cesspools differs only in terms of sealing and has much in common. As for the choice of location, for hermetic structures, the norms are more democratic, although they require to think over the ways of the entrance and the arrangement of the site for the sewer truck.

The use of special bacterial agents makes it possible to increase the efficiency of waterproof drainage structures. Bacteria process sewage into bottom sediment and water, which can be used to water the garden.

The choice of material for construction

The filtration pit can be built from whole or broken bricks, gas silicate blocks or concrete rings. Also, the walls of the structure are made of concrete, they use capacious iron containers without a bottom or old car tires. In a word, any suitable materials will fit for arranging a leaky structure.

For the manufacture of drain collectors of the second type, solid concrete structures are used, as well as sealed containers made of metal and plastic. In addition, it is possible to build a pit in the traditional way - from bricks or reinforced concrete rings, concreted its bottom, and ensured the watertightness of the walls.

brick

Brick pit absorbing type

A waste tank built of brick is one of the most inexpensive and simple options, especially if it is necessary to build a pit without pumping. Brick allows you to make the walls solid or with gaps that increase the filtration capacity of the structure. The advantages of this design include the possibility of building a pit of any size and configuration. Brick absorbent wells are not without the disadvantages inherent in any leaky systems - silting and negative impact on the environment. In addition, masonry brick under aggressive operating conditions quickly collapses, which leads to a short service life of filtration systems - about 20 years.

From car tires

Worn truck tires are a cheap and durable material for equipping a sewage tank without pumping

You can build a drainage system for the bathroom and toilet of a country house at a minimal cost, using car tires as a building material for an absorbent cesspool. To do this, it is enough to dig a pit of sufficient size and equip a filter layer of crushed stone at its bottom. Tires installed one on top of the other form a durable structure that prevents shedding of the walls of the structure.

As in the previous version, the negative aspects include a high probability of environmental pollution with wastewater and tire decomposition products, rapid silting and a decrease in the efficiency of the system.

To increase the filtration capacity of the cesspool, spacers are installed between the tires. The resulting gaps work in the same way as the perforations of concrete and brick pits, increasing the area of contact of wastewater with the soil.

From monolithic reinforced concrete

A concrete tank is one of the strongest and most durable sewer structures.

A cesspool of this type is a structure with concrete walls and a bottom, built by pouring concrete mixture into an installed crate. Despite the fact that such a container is considered the most reliable and durable, high labor costs do not allow us to call this design the best. At present, this method of construction is being crowded out by ready-made sets of reinforced concrete rings and covers.

From concrete rings

Depending on the tightness requirements, concrete rings can have solid or perforated walls.

The arrangement of a cesspool from cast concrete rings can only be partly attributed to inexpensive options. This is due to the fact that building materials will not only have to be bought, but also to hire equipment for loading and transporting to the site. In addition, the installation of heavy reinforced concrete products will also require the use of lifting mechanisms (further we will tell you how, if you wish and have free time, you can get by with just a shovel). Nevertheless, it is this option that is the simplest and most durable way to equip both absorbent cesspools and hermetic structures. Reinforced concrete rings with perforated walls are currently being produced, which are ideal for the construction of waste collectors without pumping.

From metal and plastic containers

Even from an old metal barrel, you can build a filtration pit, which will ensure the efficiency of the sewerage of a country house

The easiest way to make a sewer pit is to bury a plastic or metal container of a suitable volume at a depth. Moreover, this method allows you to get both a sealed structure and an absorbent system. The difference between the second option and the first one is the absence of the bottom of the tank and the presence of perforations in the walls. In addition, in the latter case, you will have to additionally prepare the bottom of the pit by making a crushed stone filter pad.

Project for a summer cottage

Those who think that the construction of a cesspool does not require preliminary calculations are mistaken. In order for the operation of the sewer system to take place without emergency stops, it is necessary not only to calculate the required volume of the sewage well and consider its design, but also to choose the right construction site.

The size of the waste sewer facility

The size of the cesspool depends primarily on the daily amount of wastewater, design (with or without pumping), mode of operation (regular or occasional use), soil type and other factors.

To calculate the sewer tank without a bottom, the following factors are taken into account:

the volume of wastewater per family member when using the bathroom, toilet and washing machine is assumed to be 200 liters. Depending on the specific conditions, this figure is reduced to 150 liters;
the calculation is carried out according to the maximum daily wastewater consumption;
when determining the size of the cesspool, its volume must contain at least three times the daily amount of wastewater. That is, for a family of three, the container must contain at least 1.8 cubic meters of liquid.

The dimensions of the sewer well are determined for reasons of convenience, given that the depth must be measured from the entry point into it of the sewer line. As for the proportions of the structure, its depth should be at least 2–2.5 times greater than the vertical dimensions (length, width or diameter). Due to the fact that the effluents are cleaned by anaerobic bacteria and go into the ground, the size of the absorbing system will be sufficient for efficient operation.

When determining the volume of the filtration cesspool, the composition of the soil on the site must be taken into account. Sands and sandy loams perfectly pass water, while clay or loamy soil requires a larger area of contact of wastewater with the soil, and, consequently, an increase in the size of the pit.

For the construction of a storage sewer tank, the same averaged data on drainage are used as in the case discussed above. In this case, the daily volume is multiplied by the interval between pumping in days. For example, if it is planned to pump out a hole every two weeks, then for a family of three, its volume should be 150x3x14 = 6.3 cubic meters.

Most sewer trucks will be able to take away a little more than 3 cubic meters. m of wastewater, therefore, a comprehensive analysis of the arrangement of a large-capacity sewage tank is necessary

Before making a final conclusion on the size of the waste facility, be sure to consult with the utilities or private individuals who pump out the sewer. The fact is that the volume of most sewage trucks is 3.6 cubic meters, and only some models have a tank increased to 5–8 cubic meters. If your area is being served for the first time, then you need to carefully consider whether it makes sense to build a sewer with a larger capacity than the sewer can pump out. At the same time, it is necessary to lay down additional volume if the arrival of service vehicles may be difficult or irregular.

Choosing a place for construction

When choosing a place for construction, they are guided by the norms of sanitary and epidemiological legislation, construction SNiP and common sense. If you collect all the recommendations, you get a rather long list. Nevertheless, we advise you not to neglect the rules, since their failure to comply is fraught with both inefficient work and the inconvenience of sewerage maintenance, as well as administrative responsibility under the current Code of Administrative Offenses.

Restrictions on the choice of location for a cesspool

Do not place a cesspool in the lowest part of the site to avoid flooding with flood or rainwater.
It is forbidden to equip filtration facilities if the groundwater level is less than 4 m.
The hole must be removed:
from the foundations of buildings - not less than 10 m;
from fences - more than 1 m;
from roads and trees - 4 m.
The distance from sources of drinking water should be:
for clay soils - at least 20 m;
for loams - at least 30 m;
for sand and sandy loam - from 50 m.
When choosing a place for a cesspool, be sure to take into account the possibility of a sewer truck access.

Blueprints. Photo gallery

At the final stage of designing a sewer tank, a drawing of the structure is drawn up indicating the dimensions and distances from nearby objects. In addition, the entry points of sewer lines and other design features are indicated. For those who consider such a structure to be so elementary that its design does not require "excessive gestures", we recommend that you draw up at least a simple sketch. Believe me: it is better to correct mistakes made with a pencil on paper than to redo a multi-ton reinforced concrete structure. The presented drawings of cesspools can be used in your project, adapted to specific sizes and conditions.

Drawing of a filtration sewage facility Drawing of a sewer tank made of concrete rings Drawing of a sewer pit with overflow Drawing of a cesspool for a country toilet

Instructions for making sealed and seepage pit latrines

Having decided on the location of the drain pit and having made the necessary calculations, they begin earthworks. If the sewer is equipped using a plastic or metal container, brick or concrete, then a pit of the required dimensions is prepared. It is dug by hand or with the use of earthmoving equipment.

The excavator will save time and effort when preparing the pit, but in some cases it will not be possible to use earthmoving equipment

For the construction of a sewer, it is also easiest to use the services of an excavator and a crane. However, there are cases when the use of equipment on the site is impossible for a number of reasons - there are no access roads, power lines interfere, etc. In this case, they use the old method that our grandfathers used. One of the rings is put in place, they climb inside and, using a shovel with a short handle, they remove the soil, gradually removing the earth from under the walls. It is necessary to constantly monitor the level of the product, since it is important that the reinforced concrete element goes into the ground strictly vertically. After the upper cut of the structure is flush with the site, the next ring is installed and the soil is continued to be removed until the desired depth is reached.

Necessary tools and materials

Depending on the design of the wastewater tank, bricks, concrete rings or a precast concrete structure with a lid, tires from trucks, formwork boards, etc. are prepared before construction begins. In addition, you will need the following tools and materials:

cement and sand for mortar preparation;
small rubble and crushed stone for arranging the filtration layer;
metal bar or reinforcement for the manufacture of a concrete cover;
a hatch with a frame or metal corners and metal for its manufacture;
waterproofing;
buckets and a container for preparing a solution;
trowel, mason's hammer;
bubble level, cord and plumb;
shovel and bayonet shovels.

If a large amount of concrete work is planned, then it is best to use a concrete mixer, which can be borrowed from friends or rented.

Brick building for a private house

For the construction of the sewer, red solid brick is used. It is best if it is burnt material, which is considered a defect in production. Silicate products are not recommended due to their low resistance in a humid environment.

The order of work is as follows:

After the pit is dug, its bottom is leveled and covered with a 50-cm layer of rubble or concreted, depending on the tightness of the structure. The latter option is carried out with the arrangement of an armored belt, which strengthens the concrete base of the drain collector.
Arrangement of the filtration layer
Perform wall laying. Depending on the project, the structure may have a round, square or rectangular shape. The masonry of the sealed container is carried out continuously, with careful filling of all joints with sand-cement mortar. To make a pit without pumping out, the brick is laid in a checkerboard pattern, increasing the filtration efficiency of the structure.
It looks like masonry sewer pit absorbing type
Around the sewer pipeline, it is better to make a window with a side and upper gap between the pipe and the masonry from 5 to 10 cm. Such a solution will not affect the tightness of the structure, but when the structure shrinks, this trick will save the pipe from damage.
The walls are laid out to a height below 20–30 cm from the level of the site, after which they begin to arrange the floor. To do this, a sealed crate with a hole for the hatch is installed on the pit, an armored belt is constructed and the slab is poured with concrete mortar. The frame and the manhole cover can be bought or made from improvised materials: pieces of metal corners, profile pipes and steel sheet.
Overlapping the sewer tank with a hatch for pumping wastewater
The slab is covered with a layer of soil and rammed.
In regions with a harsh climate, the distance from the plate to the zero mark of the site is increased to 50-60 cm. This allows you to fill the hole with a thick layer of soil, which prevents the sewer from freezing in winter.

Video: the secrets of building a brick pit

Sewage well made of reinforced concrete rings

To date, manufacturers offer rings in a wide range. It must be understood that for a diameter of additional elements of more than 1.5 m, you will have to use lifting equipment, so the best option for making a cesspool with your own hands is products with a size of Ø1 × 0.89 m. Together with the rings, you can purchase a concrete bottom and cover. This will reduce construction time to a minimum.

Table of standard sizes of reinforced concrete rings for wells and cesspools

Instructions for the progress of work:

By analogy with a brick structure, a crushed stone filter layer is constructed at the bottom of the pit, a concrete pad is poured or a factory reinforced concrete base slab is installed (in the case of using an excavator). At the same time, it is imperative to control the correctness of the work performed by the construction level.
3-4 rings are stacked on top of each other, reaching the top level. If necessary, the desired height can be achieved with several rows of brickwork.
When installing rings of large diameter, lifting equipment is indispensable
Using a perforator, holes are made in the concrete wall for sewer lines. We remind you that their size must ensure the integrity of the pipes during shrinkage.
If it is necessary to obtain a sealed structure, the joints of the rings are sealed with a mortar, and after it dries, the outer surface is sealed with bituminous and other moisture-proof compounds, and the inner one is plastered.
The design of imported rings will ensure the required tightness immediately upon completion of installation
Install or make your own floor slab.
When buying concrete rings, you can also purchase a finished floor. This will reduce construction time, but will lead to additional costs.
The structure is covered with a layer of soil.

Video: construction of concrete rings

Concrete pit from monolithic reinforced concrete

The sewer well made of monolithic concrete provides excellent tightness and is one of the most reliable designs. Note that in this case it is better to dig the pit by hand. This will allow you to install the crate on only one side and will reduce the consumption of concrete. Construction work is carried out in stages.

The bottom of the pit is leveled and tamped, after which a concrete screed is made at least 10 cm thick with internal reinforcement.
After the concrete has set, the side surfaces of the pit are covered with a waterproofing material. This will avoid shedding of soil during concrete work.
Installing the armored belt and pouring the base
At a distance of at least 4 cm from the walls of the pit, a vertical armored belt is mounted and formwork is installed. It should be said that a wall thickness of 15–20 cm will be enough for a pit of any size.
If there are not enough boards for the manufacture of the crate, you can use the sliding type formwork.
Adjustable (sliding formwork) construction
Install mortgages in order to obtain openings for the installation of sewer pipes.
When pouring concrete, be sure to perform its bayonet or tamping. This will remove air bubbles from the mixture and increase the strength of the structure.
A large pit will provide additional convenience during work, however, it will require the use of double-sided formwork
Sewer pipes are brought into the inlets and ventilation is installed.
Fill the top plate with soil and install the hatch.
Pit cover. Pay attention to the exit of the ventilation riser - for sealed sewage systems this is a must

Video: reinforced concrete drain pit

Do-it-yourself cesspool from tires from vehicles

Tires from heavy vehicles and buses are used to make a sewer pit. Given the width of the wheels, you will need at least 8-10 tires. The pit can be dug both manually and with an excavator. It is better to make its diameter 20–30 cm larger than the external dimensions of the tires. This will facilitate their installation and make it possible to increase the throughput of the absorbent system. In some sources, you can find recommendations to remove the side surfaces of tires to increase the internal volume of the pit. We consider this statement to be incorrect, since this will make it difficult to install them on top of each other and reduce the strength of the structure. If we take into account that tire pits are used for absorbent systems, then it is easy to conclude that the area of contact of the liquid with the soil has priority over the volume of the container.

At a certain height, a hole is cut in the tire for the drain pipe

According to the laying method, the option with tires is identical to the method using concrete rings. The only thing I would like to note is the possibility of installing 5-6 spacers between two adjacent tires, which can be used as a red brick. The gaps between the wheels will allow the filtration pit to work more efficiently. For the same purpose, the gap between the tires and the walls of the pit is filled with rubble or brick fragments, after which an overlap is installed on the pit and covered with soil.

The walls of the pit can be strengthened not with rubble or bricks, but with the remaining tires. Such a solution will also increase the absorption capacity of the sewer system.

It is possible to increase the absorbency of the pits without pumping out by installing a drainage pipe with a height of more than 1 m and a diameter of at least 20 cm, which is half dug into the ground. In its hidden part, holes are made with a diameter of not more than 5 cm. Of course, the best material will not be metal, but plastic.

Video: tire pit in a country house

Decoration of places for installation of cesspools. Photo gallery

Thanks to the layer of soil that covers the cesspool, it is not difficult to hide it from the eyes. To do this, shrubs are planted over the sewer, a flower bed is set up or a lawn is sown. To decorate sewer manholes, wooden and stone elements are used, showing ingenuity and imagination. Perhaps you can get an interesting idea from our photo gallery or use a ready-made solution on your site.

Garden stand mounted on the cover of the pit Lawn Decorative elements in the form of wooden circles Such a hatch is completely invisible against the background of the lawn. Decoration with natural materials Even the ventilation riser can be beaten gracefully and beautifully Aerobatics - use the place and create a real masterpiece of landscape design Installation of a flowerpot of the original form with flowers Decorating with artificial stones Installation of decorative figures on the hatch - a mill, a well, a hearth

A huge variety of designs of cesspools allows you to build a sewage facility in full accordance with the needs and financial capabilities. Finally, I would like to remind you of the need to comply with sanitary norms and rules, especially in terms of the danger of groundwater pollution. Let's take care of the cleanliness of the environment together, thinking about what our children and grandchildren will get.

A cesspool for a private house can be built with your own hands from different materials. Each has installation features, advantages and disadvantages, which it is advisable to familiarize yourself with in advance. For example, a brick cesspool requires building skills.

Cesspools made from tires or concrete rings are by far the most common options. Read more about how to install these objects.

Before starting installation, it is also important to carry out high-quality design work. In particular, choose a suitable place for the construction and calculate the required capacity of the drain pit and take into account the norms of SNIP.

The device and types of drain pits

A cesspool for a country house is considered a fairly simple method of eliminating sewage. In most cases, it is mounted in cottages where there are no permanent residents, so there is no need to install complex septic tanks or connect to a centralized sewer.

The device of a cesspool in a private house is not particularly difficult. This building consists of the following components:

excavated pit;
a special container where stock liquids will be contained;
pipeline;
a system of fasteners and anchors so that the container does not float;
filters for wastewater treatment;
sealants and other mounting compounds.

The advantage for a private house of a do-it-yourself cesspool is financial savings and the ability to select the type of device, depending on the characteristics of the site (soil, proximity to the groundwater surface, etc.).

Which manufacturing method to choose also depends on the regularity of use, the required service life and financial capabilities. To make the right choice, it is recommended that you carefully study the options offered on the market and make a list of the features of your own sewer system.

If the variety is chosen incorrectly or there are errors in the arrangement of the cesspool, the owner of the site is likely to encounter some unpleasant moments. These include the ingress of sewage into the environment (deterioration of the ecological situation in the area), damage to property, the appearance of an unpleasant odor, etc.

Types of cesspools and septic tanks

Structures are classified according to the material used for the manufacture:

automobile tires of various diameters;
wood (this includes chipboard, plywood, boards, fiberboard, etc.);
brick;
concrete rings and slabs;
plastic, metal-plastic, MDF, plastic.

The above materials are affordable and easy to find. It is worth noting that it is permissible to use not new products, but high quality used ones. Models are also divided according to the period of application:

all seasonal;
summer patterns.

According to the principle of operation, the structures are divided into hermetic and filtration. , because drains are not processed, but simply accumulated.

In the second case . Waste is not only cleaned, but also enters the soil, which implies that there is no need for their constant pumping. It will be necessary to call the sewage equipment quite rarely and only to remove inorganic waste.

The main disadvantage of filtration cesspools is their low environmental friendliness. Poorly treated effluents entering the ground can directly contribute to the pollution of nearby reservoirs, wells, etc. However, if such objects are located at a distance from the site, then the best solution would be the construction of a filtration type structure.

The advantage of sealed pits is that there are no too strict requirements for choosing the location of the system. However, the main drawback is the need for regular pumping of wastewater. If about 5 people live in the house, then the removal of waste from the pit will need to be carried out every 1-2 weeks.

Design principles

Some owners of private houses believe that it is not worth spending time and resources on designing, because. it is possible to install a cesspool with your own hands and without it. This is a common misconception. This stage is as important as the actual installation work.

Before starting the installation, it is important to choose the right location for the structure, study its device and calculate the capacity of the tank. If this is not done, then several problems may arise at once:

if placed incorrectly, the owner will be held administratively liable, and the building will have to be destroyed and re-erected elsewhere;
the system will not function correctly;
frequent pumping out of the contents (using a sewage pump) or using special equipment for sewage will be required. Thus, this will lead to significant financial or temporary losses;
improper preparation for installation work can lead to inefficient functioning of the cesspool.

Therefore, it is advisable to immediately pay special attention to the design stage of the future system.

Location

To select a location, you must follow certain requirements and standards that are regulated by applicable law.

Note! If this is not done, then the inspection may require the relocation of the structure, and a fine will be imposed on the owner of the site.

It is advisable to pay special attention to the design and choice of location.

The structure must be located at some distance from the walls of houses, other buildings and objects:

3 m from trees and gardens;
4-5 m from the road;
10 m from various rivers, streams and foundations;
30 m from the reservoir;
50 m from the well where drinking water is taken. If the soil is clay, then a distance of 20 meters is allowed.

It is recommended to avoid arranging a cesspool at the lowest point of the site. Otherwise, such an arrangement can lead to flooding with showers and rain. It is also undesirable to place the structure on the site if the groundwater level is less than 4 meters.

When choosing a place, you should definitely take into account the possibility of unhindered access of special equipment for sewage disposal.

It is worth noting that the above requirements apply for the most part to do-it-yourself drainage cesspools. If it is planned to install sealed containers for a private house, then the exact distances to objects can not be observed.

Another factor on the basis of which the location is determined is the slope of the site. It is recommended to independently install a cesspool for a private house below the drain point. This is required to ensure self-flow. When laying the pipeline, the slope should be 3 cm per meter of pipes so that the drain liquids fall into the tank on their own.

Device

After determining the place where the cesspool for a private house will be mounted with your own hands, you can plan the installation procedure. There are certain subtleties that are important to know about before starting the process.

If you plan to use the pit exclusively in the summer, then the depth of the pit can be approximately 1-1.5 meters. If the structure will be operated in the winter or all year round, then when calculating the depth, it is important to take into account the characteristics of the soil.

For example, in winter, the volume of land will increase due to freezing, and in the season of heavy rains, the soil will soak. The minimum allowable tank depth is 0.5 meters.

During installation, it is imperative to provide for the presence of a ventilation pipe, as well as a drainage system. Ventilation should be at a distance of approximately 40-70 cm from the surface.

When building a cesspool for a country cottage or a private house with your own hands, it is recommended to choose not a hermetic model, but one whose tank has a filtration bottom.

However, it is desirable to take into account that the total volume of waste water and waste should be less than 1 cubic meter per day. Such a sewer system is the best choice for sandy soil types, if the depth of groundwater is more than 2.5 meters.

The problem of how to properly make a cesspool worries all owners of a private house planning this procedure. It is desirable to know about certain features of mounting and choosing a sealed model:

the scope and design of tanks made of concrete and plastic containers are somewhat different;
wells have worse tightness compared to plastic containers;
the best ratio of quality and cost is the eurocube as a container. It is completely sealed, capable of storing up to 1000 liters of waste, is sold in many hardware stores and has an affordable price;
the cross section of the ventilation pipe should be approximately 10 cm, and the distance from the surface should be more than 40 cm;
the pipeline should be laid with consideration for the possible need for future repair or replacement. Therefore, it is recommended to design it in such a way that various shrubs, roots and trees do not interfere.

The scheme for creating a cesspool in a private house built by oneself:

A pit of the required size is dug.
The walls are being arranged and a pipe is being laid through which sewage liquids will flow into the tank. It is important not to forget to maintain the slope to ensure that the waste flows instantly and there are no blockages.
An outgoing pipe is connected to a special hole in the tank, through which the effluents leave the tank.
Direct installation of sewerage components is carried out.
Hatches are being installed.
When installing a brick cesspool on your own, an additional 30-centimeter dig is made on top, on which a concrete slab is then placed.
The slab is covered with earth, and the surface is leveled. The hatch, as a rule, remains open.

Dimensions

One of the most important design stages is the calculation of the required volume of a do-it-yourself cesspool for a private house. Basically, a general rule is used: the container should hold the approximate amount of drained liquid in 2 days.

That is, you will need to find out how much water is drained per day on average (kitchen, bath, bathroom or shower, sinks, etc.). If a heating tank is used to supply hot water, then its volume is multiplied by 2, resulting in the required tank size.

However, it is important to note that the above calculation can only be used if it is planned to operate a filtration cesspool in the warm season.

If you need year-round use or use a sealed model in winter, you will need to calculate the required liquid capacity using the formula: Volume \u003d N * X * V.

N - how many days the tank must be filled before pumping is carried out;
X is the number of people who live in the house;
V - how much liquid is used by 1 family member (measured in liters).

For example, 4 people live in a private house, each of whom drains about 200 liters per day. If it is planned to pump out wastewater once every 30 days, then you can substitute these data into the formula.

It turns out that Capacity \u003d 30 * 4 * 200 \u003d 24 cubic meters.

It is advisable to analyze from your own experience how much water is consumed per day, but if this is not possible, then you can use the average value - 150-200 cubic meters. meters per person. This parameter is largely based on the habits and lifestyle of those living in the house. Statistics say that, for example, city dwellers consume more water than people living in villages.

Installation of cesspools - preliminary planning

After making calculations and selecting the location of the cesspool for a private house, we do its installation with our own hands. When the owner has chosen what material the sewer system will be built from, construction can begin. First of all, it is necessary to dig a pit of a suitable size for the future cesspool.

This stage can be carried out with the help of specialized equipment and a team of workers or completely independently. In the latter case, it will take more time, but sometimes only this option is possible.

For example, when it is impossible to carry out the entrance of special equipment or power lines are located too low.

In order to properly equip a cesspool for a private house with your own hands, you need to adhere to a certain algorithm:

The first ring is installed, a person climbs inside it and begins to dig under it, throwing soil to the surface.
As you dig deeper, the soil under the walls is also removed.
Be sure to maintain a uniform removal of the earth from under the ring, because. an even vertical position of the product is important.
When the ring is in line with the ground, mount the next ring.
The soil continues to be evenly harvested until a suitable depth is reached.

When the preparatory earthworks have been completed, it is necessary to prepare the products from which the drain pit will be built. Depending on the nature of the soil, the required design and other factors, concrete rings, machine tires, plastic containers, bricks are used. Formwork requires boards.

In addition to using basic materials, you will also need the following tools:

components for creating cement mortar;
crushed stone and fine gravel to equip the drainage area;
reinforcing bars for mounting the top cover made of concrete;
waterproofing materials;
ready-made metal hatch or components for its manufacture with your own hands;
shovels, hammer;
level, plumb line and cord;
several containers for different needs, for example, making a solution;
trowel.

It is advisable to immediately plan all the work and, based on the plan, prepare the necessary tools. If the project contains a lot of work related to concrete, then it is better to purchase, rent or borrow a concrete mixer.

We make a cesspool of concrete on our own

Watch the video

The design of a concrete cesspool can be called the best option for a private house in terms of durability and reliability.

Such structures can be used throughout the year, they are resistant to the lowest temperatures and high humidity, do not deform under the influence of high soil viscosity during a long rainy season.

Advantages of choosing concrete as a manufacturing material:

you can quickly build a structure;
long service life (up to 50 years);
reliability, manifested in resistance to negative environmental influences;
regular maintenance, repair or restoration work is not required;
easy to find and purchase source building materials.

Cons of building such a drain pit:

the large weight of the rings, which will require the help of several people or special equipment for installation (especially if the diameter is more than one and a half meters);
the cost of concrete materials is higher than the price of analogues made of plastic;
the need to strictly follow the drawings.

The installation procedure consists of the following steps:

At the bottom of the excavated pit, a layer of crushed stone is placed to create a filtration element.
A concrete screed is produced or a ready-made reinforced concrete slab is installed, which will become the basis of the structure. This step must be accompanied by a level check.
The required number of reinforced concrete rings (usually 3-4) is placed on top of each other. If the height is not reached, then sometimes a low brickwork is made from above.
Holes are created with a puncher through which communications for sewerage will be connected. The cross section of the holes must be calculated based on the diameter of the pipeline and the shrinkage of the pit must be taken into account.
Joints of concrete products, as well as all pipe joints, must be coated with a special sealant. Then, when the sealant is dry, the outside must be covered with a water-repellent compound. The surface inside needs to be plastered.
The ceiling is mounted (upper horizontal plate). It can be made independently or purchased immediately ready-made, but in the latter case it will cost more.
From above it is covered with soil.

Watch the video

Such a drain pit, when properly installed, will be tight and stable. It does not require additional anchoring due to the large mass of the structure. Also, the structure will be completely resistant to freezing and heaving of the soil in the winter season.

We make a cesspool with our own hands from brick

Watch the video

A do-it-yourself brick pit is a popular option for arranging sewage in a private house. Solid red brick is used for the work. The best variety is burnt brick, which is not used in production.

It is not allowed to use varieties of products that have poor resistance to an environment with high humidity. This category includes, for example, a silicate species.

Key features of a brick cesspool for a private house:

the built pit will have a long service life;
differs in excellent tightness and ability to reliably hold waste liquids;
brick allows you to create a pit of any shape and volume, as well as build it on any form of soil (both clay and sandy);
in terms of labor intensity and time spent on construction, the work is approximately equal to the construction of a system of concrete rings;
a drain pit can be built even on a site where groundwater runs close to the surface. This material is also reliably protected from soil heaving in winter;
brickwork is recommended to be done carefully, because. if implemented incorrectly, it may subsequently collapse. However, some aesthetic flaws are still allowed, because. they will be completely hidden under the surface of the earth;
a rectangular or square pit is not able to withstand heavy loads;
it is quite difficult to build a round structure on your own, most likely, you will need the help of professionals;
the cost of a brick pit is higher than the construction of plastic structures. You can save money if you use a used product in the process.

If you plan to build a closed tank, then you need to prepare a large amount of sand and cement in advance. In most cases, a cylindrical or cubic pit is erected with their own hands.

It is recommended not to make a depth of more than 3 meters. The permissible volume of a septic tank depends not only on the flow of liquid by people living in the house, but also on the remoteness of the structure from the building.

How to make a cesspool out of bricks with your own hands:

Dig a pit of the required dimensions.
Align the bottom and create a cushion of rubble on top (about 50 cm wide) or concrete (in this case, reinforcement is also used for additional reinforcement).
Make brickwork walls with a rectangular, round or square shape. The procedure is continuous, and all joints are certainly filled with a composition of sand and cement. During the construction of a drain structure without pumping out, it is required to lay out a brick in a checkerboard pattern, this will increase the draining function of the pit.
It is recommended to make a small "pocket" between the brickwork and the pipeline, about 6-10 cm. This will not affect the tightness of the drain pit, but will prevent the structure from deforming during shrinkage.
25 cm below the surface level, laying of the walls begins, then the construction of the ceiling begins: a crate (hermetic grating) is installed with a ready hole for the hatch, an armored belt is created and the entire slab is poured with concrete.
The slab needs to be covered with soil and leveled with the surface. If the installation is carried out in an area where the temperature drops to minus 20 degrees, then the upper soil layer increases to avoid freezing of the pit in winter. In this case, the distance from the surface level of the site to the slab is 50 cm.

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We make a cesspool with our own hands from tires

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The decision to equip a cesspool from tires is becoming quite popular. For this purpose, tires of large vehicles are used. For example, buses or trucks. Since the diameter is not too large, it will be necessary to make a deep hole for a private house. The number of tires required is 9-10 pieces.

Before you make a cesspool of tires, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the advantages and disadvantages of this material. The benefits include:

tires are not subject to aggressive environmental influences, corrosion does not apply to them;
low price for products;
light weight, which makes it easy to move the components;
the material is easily processed with improvised means, no special tools are required.

Flaws:

small section of tires in comparison with reinforced concrete rings or brickwork;
suitable exclusively for creating drain pits of small volume. For a country cottage where more than 5 people live, you will most likely need to choose a different material of manufacture;
Larger tires require additional assistance.

The pit is dug out independently or you can use the help of an excavator. As a rule, an additional 30 cm more than the dimensions of the products themselves are laid in the size of the pit. This will greatly simplify the installation process, and will also increase the filtration capacity of the sewer.

Some craftsmen advise removing the sidewalls of the tires so that the working area of \u200b\u200bthe drain pit is increased and waste cannot accumulate on the surface. However, this action can lead to a decrease in the strength of the system, as well as difficulties during installation.

If the owner of the site nevertheless decided to do this, then it will take about 45 minutes to prepare one tire. The procedure is carried out in this way: a hole is created in the side wall into which a hacksaw passes, then with its help the remaining unnecessary elements are eliminated.

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You will also need to prepare one of the tires for connecting sewer communications. To do this, a hole of about 20 cm is created in the side. The further process is almost identical to the procedure for building from concrete rings.

A sheet of high-strength material is then installed on the erected pit, which is not subject to corrosive deformation. It is advisable to use a thick galvanized metal sheet. After installing the cover, the building is covered with a layer of earth and compacted.

After a while, a turf will form on top, so the pit will not be very visible on the site. Such a design will be able to function effectively for a decade, processing a daily fluid flow in the amount of approximately 70-100 liters. If it is necessary to build only a drain for a bath, then it is enough to use 4-6 large tires.

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The construction of a drain pit for a private house is carried out using various materials. Which type to choose depends on the financial capabilities of the owner, the required service life and the daily volume of waste fluids.

The most reliable and durable construction is considered to be made of eurocubes, however, in this case, additional assistance will be required. With a low daily water consumption, the best solution would be to equip a tire pit.

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