Calculation of the number of tiles and stages of designer kitchen installation, preparation of the wall surface. We install a kitchen apron from tiles ourselves How to lay tiles on a kitchen wall

Not all specialists can be trusted to lay tiles in a kitchen backsplash. It is much safer to do everything yourself, even if you have no experience. The main thing is to know how to lay the tiles correctly. And when your apron is ready, you will be surprised how easy it was.

We determine the dimensions of the apron and calculate the material

To make an apron in the kitchen with your own hands, you need to determine the material consumption. And to do this, clarify the size of the area on which the work will be carried out. Here you can focus on the standard parameters:

  • The entire working area occupies about 55-75 cm in height from the level of the countertop, although it can reach the floor itself - much depends on the location of the kitchen cabinets;
  • Ceramic tiles must extend at least 20 mm under the countertop so that dirt and water do not accumulate in the joints;
  • The apron is installed from above before the hood - this equipment is mounted at a height of 65 or 75 cm from the electrical and gas stove respectively;
  • Size work surface horizontally - the entire length of the corresponding wall, although you can limit yourself to only the “sink-desktop-stove” section.

Everything must be done necessary calculations. And to do this, decide how you will lay out the apron. There are a lot of masonry methods, but among them the most popular are:

  • Standard (basic);
  • Diagonal;
  • Imitating brickwork.

The easiest way is to implement the basic method yourself, and the excess consumption of material in this case will be minimal.

Advice! Do not forget that in the process of work, damage to the material, chips, and so on is possible. Therefore, tiles are always purchased with a 10% minimum reserve.

What do we need

To post kitchen apron do it yourself, you will need the following equipment:

  • Hammer for cleaning old coating;
  • A screwdriver, supplemented with a special device for mixing the adhesive composition - a mixer;
  • Buckets for water and glue with a capacity of at least 10 liters each;
  • Spatula for working with the adhesive mixture: narrow for - collecting glue, serrated - for distribution, rubber - for working with seams;
  • Construction levels - short - to check the location of each individual tile and long - to check the entire plane;
  • Tile cutter and nippers, abrasive block for cutting tiles, correcting broken areas;
  • Rubber mallet for checking the tightness of the apron;
  • Crosses and pegs that allow you to set the thickness of the seam;
  • Hard pencil, ruler;
  • Cord (beat).

Preparing the walls

After all the tools are prepared, you need to start preparing the working surface.

  1. The wall is thoroughly cleaned of the previous coating. If tiles were laid on the wall, you will need a hammer drill to remove them and the old mortar. In any case, the surface is cleaned to the plaster layer.
  2. The tightness of the plaster layer should also be checked - the peeling elements are completely removed, after which all irregularities are sealed.
  3. It's important to do it perfectly flat angle, if the tiles move from wall to wall.
  4. It is advisable to make notches in the wall so that the adhesive solution adheres better to its surface.

Advice! If there are salts, fungus or mold stains on the cleaned surface, it must be treated with a high-quality fungicide with anti-corrosion properties.

Let's get started step by step

Step 1. At the first stage, we make the markings with our own hands. , you must determine its upper and lower boundaries based on the dimensions of the headset. As a rule, the distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the apron is 70-85 cm. And the height of the apron is 55-65 cm.

Advice! Where to start laying tiles from the center or from the edge, moving towards the corner? It's up to you to decide: if you start installation from the center, then the cut tiles will be installed at the edges and in this case they should be same size right and left, otherwise the apron will not look neat. If you have a corner kitchen and the edges of the apron are visible, then it is better to start laying it from the edge so that the outermost tile is intact and the scraps end up in the corner.

On horizontal level installed level wooden beam– it will support the tile from below, preventing it from moving. Sometimes for these purposes they use plasterboard sheets or metal profiles. And in order to make a vertical mark, a plumb line is installed - a cord with a weight is attached to the top of the wall and released. Under the influence of gravity, the plumb line itself creates an ideal vertical.

Step 2. After applying the markings, you need to make your own adhesive solution. If the mixture is prepared incorrectly, in violation of the manufacturer's recommendations, it will very quickly collapse and the apron will fall off.

During the work, you also cannot use a dried solution and it will not be possible to dissolve it; it will lose its adhesive properties.

Step 3. Then we proceed to laying the apron. For beginners, it is best to make a backsplash using an orderly installation method. The size of the tile also matters - the larger it is, the easier it is to work, and it’s also easier to maintain, since there are much fewer joints. Accordingly, than smaller size tiles, the more seams there will be and the more difficult and longer the installation will be.

We carry out the work with our own hands in the following sequence:

  • Applied to the wall adhesive composition(with a narrow spatula) and spread evenly over its surface (with a 3 mm notched spatula). An even layer of glue with grooves should remain on the wall.

Advice! The glue can be applied not to the wall, but to the tile itself. The question of which method is more reliable does not have a clear answer; the opinions of experts differ. You can experiment and try both methods. The main thing here is to firmly press and set the adhesive under the tile evenly.

  • The tiles are mounted on the wall using even pressure. Then we take a rubber mallet and press it onto the tile (or tap it with our hands) - this will allow the glue to settle. If you started laying tiles from the edge, then install the corner at the same stage. After this, we check the horizontal and vertical of the laid fragment with a short level.

Advice! If the tile does not lie correctly, you can remove it and correct it adhesive layer and lay it down again. Of course, this can only be done until the solution sets.

  • All tiles in a row are glued using the same technology. The smaller the size of the tiles, the more since you have to repeat all these manipulations.
  • The next row begins to be installed only after the previous one has dried. Keep in mind that the first row is the most critical, and it is better to let it dry for 1 day.

Advice! Don't forget to place crosses between the tiles horizontally and vertically. This allows you to maintain the same inter-seam size.

Step 4. On last stage The tiles are trimmed and the resulting pieces are laid. The cutting line is drawn with a ruler on back side, after which they use a tile cutter (manual or electric), a grinder or a glass cutter.

This way you can get any fragment size, as well as cut out the necessary recesses in the tile for sockets and pipes.

It is just important not to cut the tile along the front part - this will cause the material to crack in the wrong place. Holes in the tiles are made with a carbide drill and also only from the “wrong side”.

Step 5. After all the tiles laid by yourself have dried, they need to be tapped with a mallet. A dull knock indicates a poor fit of the tile. Such elements are removed and reinstalled.

Step 6. Once there is no longer any doubt about the quality of the installation, you can begin grouting the tile joints. In addition, before processing the seams, all tiles must be washed from repair dust. The grout is rubbed into the seams with a rubber spatula and left for 0.5-1 hour to dry, after which it is leveled and wiped with a damp rag.

Advice! Don't forget that the shade of the grout should be in harmony with the color of the tile. Ideally, it would be 1 tone darker.

The beauty of using ceramic tiles in the kitchen is difficult to overestimate, because it is truly a unique material. It is tiles that are best suited for kitchens, as they are moisture resistant, durable, and resistant to high and low temperatures and very beautiful. This facing material presented in construction stores in a huge assortment. That is why, choose a tile for yourself, individual style It’s not at all difficult to create your own kitchen.
And everything seems to be just fine, and performance characteristics and price, but there is one negative point - the cost of installation work. Any wasteful owner understands that this is a serious and, in many ways, unjustified blow to family budget. For this reason, those who do not like to throw away money decide to lay it themselves ceramic tiles. This approach is largely justified, because the cost of masons’ services is equal to the cost of materials.
In addition to being an information resource, we are also engaged in the sale of tools that significantly facilitate the work of a tile layer; we will talk about them below. In the meantime, we advise you to study this article, as it will describe the correct technology for laying tiles in the kitchen.

As you understand, any mistakes in repairs spoil the entire aesthetics of the room and, as a rule, this is very noticeable. It is for this reason that many owners of apartments and houses do not dare to do repairs themselves. Very often they are afraid or do not understand some aspects of working technology. If you nevertheless decide to carry out the work yourself, be patient, because if you approach the matter with due diligence, laying tiles will become a completely feasible task for you. It is very good if you have at least once watched how tiles are laid. If not, take a look interesting video, which will give you an idea of ​​how this is done.

Did you know how beautiful it looks? You can check out these wonderful room design options by following the link.
In fact, there aren't any at all general rules and the taboo on laying tiles, each layer at one point or another shows individuality. And that’s right, healthy creativity should be present in any business. In addition, there are even quite a lot of surface types, for each of which there is own technology on installation. For example, facing plasterboard surface, a painted base, and simply plastered walls are significantly different. Many masons recommend not completely removing the paint, but simply making notches on the surface of the wall. Particularly meticulous master layers are hostile to this technique and believe that the wall must be completely cleared of paint and plastered, and only in this case can tiles be laid. However, as a rule, in reality it turns out that the tiles on the wall with notches are held securely.


But, there is another open question: how to lay tiles evenly in the kitchen? This can only be done if the walls have flat surface, so take the trouble to do this to get a good final quality. Soviet methods are also applicable to installation, but their effectiveness is questionable. Previously, the tiles were wetted, supposedly this improved the adhesion of the tiles and the wall. However, whether this is really the case has not been proven. Regular tile adhesive can create a good adhesion, without the use of soaking. Today, there are three ways to lay tiles - “diagonal”, “in a bandage”, “seam in a seam”. The most technical the hard way- This is a diagonal laying, since it requires many cuts, which significantly increases material consumption. When laying using the “bandage” method, the top rows of tiles are shifted halfway horizontally


We prepare materials and tools. Level the surface.

Having leveled the walls, you should plaster them using a deep penetration primer. On at the moment being implemented large number different primers, in principle, practically no different in composition. You can find out which tools are best to use for laying tiles!!
You should know!
After pouring the primer out of a container (for example, a canister), you should not pour it back into the same place if it is not completely used. Otherwise, after some time the canister will begin to emit pleasant smell. When the primer dries, the wall will be in perfect condition and no grains of sand will fall off. This will have a positive effect on the adhesion of the glue and the wall.
Glue in stores is also sold in wide range. Most masons believe that the most ideal adhesive for laying tiles is Ceresit. But import substitution in our country was still developing far before the sanctions, so domestic glue in composition and properties is no worse than the same Ceresit. If you don’t want to overpay for a brand name, choose your own and you won’t feel the difference!

We hope that you will choose the tiles for your design yourself, and to calculate required quantity, you just need to measure the area of ​​the wall and divide by the area of ​​the tile. You must add ten percent to the result obtained, approximately this amount will be spent on fighting and cutting. If you want to purchase tiles more accurately, make a template out of cardboard and apply it to the wall. This way you will know exactly how many tiles you will need. But in order to buy tiles without stock, you need to be absolutely sure that they can be cut without defects. So buy tiles without stock only if you have such abilities.
If you want to end up beautiful kitchen, try to lay the cut tiles in inconspicuous places, where they will not be visible. You can place it on a wall that is covered by furniture, in corners where light does not fall, and so on. If you plan to place tiles in the center of switches and sockets or in places where seams touch, you will have to purchase extra tiles.
In addition to everything that we have described, you will also need for work
Grinder or tile cutter;
Bucket of water;
Pencil with ruler;
Two spatulas (notched and small rubber, for grouting);
Metal profile with dowel nails.


The correct technology for laying tiles in the kitchen

As a rule, tiles are not placed behind the kitchen table and cabinets, since this is not economically profitable and entails waste of material. Now we will tell you about possible way laying tiles on the apron. To do this, you need to draw a horizontal line from the planned starting point of the apron to the end. Further along this line, a metal profile is attached using dowel-nails. The first (bottom) row of tiles will be attached to it. After this it is necessary building level check horizontality. 3D crosses or more are used to regulate seams universal toolstile leveling systems
If you decide to make 2 mm seams, you need to buy crosses 2 mm thick, if 3 mm, respectively, you need crosses of this size. You should choose a spatula depending on the size of the tile you plan to use. The most popular spatulas have teeth measuring 6,8,10 millimeters.

The next step is mixing the glue

If you don’t know which tile adhesive to choose, you can find out about this!!

The glue must be mixed until the desired consistency is obtained. To obtain it, you must read the instructions for use indicated on the package. Tile adhesive is mixed manually, using a drill with a screw-shaped attachment, or you can also use an electric mixer. As a rule, only tilers with good incomes can afford a mixer, unlike a drill.

After mixing the glue, you should let it stand for about five to ten minutes and after that, mix again. Such manipulations with it are carried out in order to give it softness and plasticity. To apply it, use a notched trowel, which must be dipped in water during operation. Otherwise, the glue on it will actively dry out and accumulate. For this reason, you will need a bucket of water, and to check the planes, use the usual aluminum rules.

Before you lay the tile, you will need to know where it is down and where it is up. To do this, turn it over - there will be arrow marks on the back side. For convenience, you can immediately correctly stack the stack of tiles along the arrows. Mark it from the end with a pencil where it is at the top. And after that you can take it from the stack and calmly and comfortably lay it down.

How to properly apply adhesive to tiles

For these purposes, use a flat spatula. Excess glue from the flat trowel should be removed with a notched trowel. After this, the excess is placed in a container with glue, and it slides into it without effort, since the notched trowel was in a bucket of water and is accordingly wet and slippery. The adhesive is located on the back side of the tile in even grooves. In this case, the spatula must be held perpendicularly, without tilting. This determines whether the correct thickness of the adhesive layer will be applied.

How to properly fix tiles to the wall

Take the tile, apply glue to it and gently press it over the entire area. Check its position with a level so that everything is level, both vertically and horizontally. If the wall was evenly plastered, and you secured the profile evenly along the line, then, as a rule, there are no differences horizontally. After the first one, it is necessary to glue the second tile, fixing the upper and lower parts tile leveling systems or 3D crosses, depending on what you plan to use. To check the plane, a rule is used. Make sure there are no gaps.
Different craftsmen apply glue in different ways, some only on the wall, others only on the tiles, and some here and there. In principle, at the moment they are selling in all respects good glue, so between in various ways application there is no fundamental difference.

It is necessary to cut the tiles correctly. How? We'll tell you

cut tiles placed in the corners. To cut it, use a tile cutter. As a rule, a non-professional mason does not have such tools on his farm; in this case, you need to use an ordinary glass cutter. After you make a cut on it, you need to break the tile by placing it edgewise on the table; you can also use a stool for these purposes. Perform these manipulations very carefully, as you can harm yourself if you come into contact with the sharp broken edge of the tile. It happens that in places where plumbing or electrical fixtures are located, it is necessary to make a shaped cut. It will help you do this grinder With diamond blade– Bulgarian. Its disadvantage is that during operation it creates a lot of dust, but the advantage is that the price is much lower than a machine for cutting tiles.
You should know! Adjusting the tiles on the wall can be done for a maximum of fifteen minutes; if more time passes, the panel must be removed, the adhesive must be cleaned from the wall and re-installed.

We design window slopes and corners

In order to arrange as accurately as possible window slopes or wall corners, use plastic corners. The ends of the tiles are hidden in them. The thickness of the corner should be approximately two millimeters larger than the panel.
The approximate drying time for the glue is one day. After this time, you need to dismantle the metal profile supporting the first row of tiles, since after a day it will no longer slide off.

Finishing touches - grouting

After you dismantle tile leveling systems or crosses, depending on what you used, you can start sealing the seams. A fugue will help you do this, which you must choose in accordance with the color of the grout. It is a powder that must be diluted correctly. The kneaded consistency should not be too thick or thin. To evenly distribute the grout over the surface, use a rubber spatula, as it will not damage the glazed layer of the tile. After applying the grout, all you have to do is clean the surface. To do this, use a wet cloth or sponge. We would also like to tell you about the projects we implement construction toolstile leveling systems and 3D crosses.

Tile leveling systems and 3D crosses will provide you with perfectly even seams and more!

Our online store is pleased to offer you buy tile leveling systems,’which are excellent for carrying out facing work. Their positive properties, is that, unlike ordinary crosses, in addition to creating an even seam, they also create a perfectly smooth surface. For this reason, they are more versatile and functional than the former.
All products we sell are certified, produced in factories according to modern technologies using innovative equipment in Russia. Therefore, its cost is significantly lower than its foreign analogues, which are no better than SVP, DLS and Litolevel in terms of quality. The systems are made of impact-resistant plastic, which is very important since half of their parts are reusable. If you have any questions about purchasing our leveling systems, call our manager at the number listed on the website, he will be happy to answer them. And then we would like to talk about the advantages tile leveling systems.

Tile leveling systems offer the following advantages

By using them during the installation process, you will not encounter the “landslide” effect;
Leveling systems consist of two parts, one of which is reusable, so when laying tiles in all rooms, starting from the second, you will save half the cost;
Their use guarantees absolutely smooth seams and surfaces;
With the installation process using leveling systems even a beginner who has no skills in this area can handle it;
Usage leveling systems speeds up the process two to four times facing works. Accordingly, a bricklayer is able to do at least twice as much work in a working day and, proportionally, earn more;
And many others.

Ceramic tiles are one of the most popular finishing methods in the kitchen. The fact is that it is not exposed to water or temperature changes, it is easy to care for, and its service life can be counted in decades. Today, manufacturers offer tiles in various colors and structures, so it will not be difficult to choose an option that will look great both on the floor and on the walls. We invite you to figure out together which tiles are best suited for the kitchen, as well as how to lay them according to all the rules.

Before laying tiles, you need to choose the option that best suits the interior of your kitchen and operating conditions. From how much quality material will be able to buy, the service life and user properties of the ceramics depend. The first thing you should pay attention to is, of course, color scheme and texture. Textured tiles are not always appropriate in the kitchen, especially around the stove, since the tiles can become very dirty during cooking. And for cleaning structural surface will take much longer than smooth and glossy.

As for color, the main thing here is your desire, however, there are certain rules that allow you to visually enlarge or reduce a room, as well as highlight separate zones, for example, cooking or eating. Light colors allow you to visually expand the boundaries, and bright colors- place emphasis on some place. When solving the issue of laying tiles, you need to start from the size of the kitchen. For small rooms suitable tiles measuring 10×10, 15×15 cm or classic mosaic. For an apron this will be the best option.

For a small kitchen it is better to choose large tiles

You can (and should) choose something larger for the floor. If you are the owner of a spacious kitchen, then any size range will suit you, but remember that what more seams, the more work there will be during cleaning. Be sure to check the geometry of the tiles. Very often, if production or storage technology is not followed, tiles become curved. If on a large tile differences of 1 mm are not very noticeable and practically do not affect the installation, then for a small tile this can become a big problem.

The front side of the tile should be smooth and its corners straight. Thickness discrepancies of up to 2 mm are allowed, but try to choose minimal deviations. The height and width of all pieces in the batch must completely match, otherwise it will not be possible to obtain even tile seams. Advice. Choose tiles from the same batch, especially if it comes to colored tiles, as there may be differences in tone.

It is clear that most tiles have a practical function - they protect the walls. However, the aesthetic component of the cladding is also important for the home owner. In addition to color and texture, you also need to choose how (pattern) it will be laid out on the walls or floor. Everyone has the right to experiment with styling methods, but we will consider the main options that remain relevant at all times. The first and most common is the classical method. It is successfully used for tiles different sizes, colors and designs. Even a novice master can handle the classic layout, since laying out tiles in an even line is not difficult.

For kitchens in traditional style Wonderful suitable styling tiles "in a running start". The method is that each subsequent row is glued with a certain offset, and the offset does not have to start from the middle of the previous tile - you can always experiment with the pattern. Most often, rectangular tiles are used for this layout, since the resulting result resembles brickwork, although square tile in this version it looks very interesting.

The classic method involves laying in a straight line

Diagonal laying of tiles is more complex, but nevertheless sufficient effective way transform the interior. Before laying the tiles diagonally, you need to apply markings to the surface where the tiles will be attached, and if there is an opportunity to practice, then you should definitely do this. Very often, masters combine methods with each other. In this way, you can achieve truly interesting results, but before implementing this idea, you must definitely make a sketch of the future finish.

When the layout issue is resolved, proceed to calculating the required amount of material. To do this, find out the surface area to be tiled and divide it by the area of ​​one tile. This will give you the quantity required material. In addition, you need to add about 5-15% to the total amount in case of damage to the tiles during work, as well as cutting them to the required size. When purchasing tiles, you can always ask the seller to calculate the required quantity, as well as make a sketch of the room, which can be easily created in a special program.

Before laying a tile backsplash or tiling the floor, prepare the kitchen surface. The service life of the tile will depend on the consistency and correctness of the actions. The first thing to do is to examine the surface for the presence of peeling elements. old decoration. All this needs to be removed, and large depressions and cracks should be covered with mortar. Afterwards we prime the surface. Now you can start plastering the wall or pouring the screed if we are talking about a field.

When plastering walls, we recommend using fiberglass mesh, which will prevent the surface from cracking in the future. Some craftsmen do not stretch the walls “to zero” before tiling the surface, but prefer to level the wall or floor using tile adhesive directly while laying the tiles. It is not recommended to do this under any circumstances, since there is a high risk of the material peeling off from the surface due to a violation of the technology and an excessive layer of glue. Upon completion of plastering or screeding, re-treat the surface with primer compounds.

Before installation, you need to prepare the surface

In addition to plaster, you can line the walls with plasterboard for the subsequent installation of a kitchen apron made of tiles. Some people prefer to use this method because it is simpler - there is no need to seal small cracks and chips. We make a sheathing on the wall from wooden blocks or aluminum profiles, and then we attach sheets of plasterboard to it. It is important to use moisture-resistant gypsum board, as it retains moisture from the glue, preventing it from penetrating into the sheet and destroying it. Alternatively, plasterboard sheets can be replaced with gypsum fiber sheets, because they are more durable due to the inclusion of cellulose fibers. The seams between the sheets are reinforced with a special mesh or paper and carefully puttied.

Preparing the surface using drywall is especially important in houses built of wood, since it is almost impossible to lay a tile apron on wood (the only exception is plywood). If the surface intended for cladding is flat, then there is no need to plaster it or level it with plasterboard. It is enough to treat the wall with Betonokontakt solution for better adhesion.

Wall cladding - becoming real masters

Nowadays, it is rare that anyone completely tiles their walls. As a rule, all you need to do is make an apron in the kitchen. If this approach is chosen, then the first thing you need to do is draw a strictly horizontal line, for which we use bubble level or laser axle builder. We draw a line at the level of the table top, and then fasten it under it. aluminum profile or a wooden plank, which will serve as a fixing element when laying tiles with your own hands. We secure the support with dowels, which are inserted into the holes drilled with a hammer drill.

At the next stage, we prepare the solution with which the tiles will be laid. Here you can choose from two options: make the mixture yourself from sand and cement, or buy a dry mixture in the store and knead it by adding a certain amount of water. It is worth noting that cement mortar Not suitable for all types of tiles. So, for glass mosaic, which is used to cover a kitchen apron, you need to use special composition white, and porcelain stoneware requires a special glue that will allow it to hold a lot of weight on the surface.

Apply tile adhesive with a spatula directly to the tile itself (when laying mosaics - on the wall), after which we remove the excess using a comb. It is not difficult to choose the correct width of the teeth - the larger the tile, the greater the distance should be between the rows. We attach the prepared tile to the wall and press it, making small movements left and right. Next, we take a level to check the horizontalness and, if necessary, correct it immediately, without allowing the material to harden.

By adjusting the inclination of the notched trowel, you can choose optimal thickness tile adhesive.

We repeat the process in a similar way for each subsequent tile. To position the tiles evenly relative to each other, we use special crosses that we place in the corners. We remove excess glue immediately from the surface of the tile, and remove the mortar and plastic crosses remaining in the space between the tiles after a few hours, when the glue has set. If necessary before the right size, we use a special device - a tile cutter, and if you don’t have one, then you can try to do it with a glass cutter. You need to understand that not all tiles can be cut in this way; for example, porcelain tiles are cut exclusively with a grinder, since they are very durable.

Laying tiles on the floor - step-by-step instructions

Laying tiles on the floor, as a rule, begins from the center of the room, but in some cases you can deviate from this norm if required. design ideas. In cases where the tiles are intended to be laid out in a specific pattern, we recommend that you initially lay the material on the floor without glue to ensure that the elements have been selected correctly.

  • Using painter's thread, we beat off a straight line in the center of the kitchen, from which the tiles will be laid.
  • Using a spatula, apply glue to the tiles and floor, the excess of which is removed with a comb.
  • Place the tile on the floor and press it tightly, moving it slightly from side to side.
  • We measure the evenness with a level, and if necessary, use a mallet to knock down the tiles in order to achieve a perfectly even result.
  • We repeat similar actions with each subsequent element, laying them in a circle.

As in the case of wall tiles, the remaining adhesive must be removed from the tile immediately, and the crosspieces and mortar between the tiles must be removed as the glue sets. Grout the joints no sooner than every other day, using moisture-resistant compounds for the kitchen.

You will need

  • Tiles, glue, grout, silicone sealant in a can, nails, spacer crosspieces, wooden slats cross-section 25X25 mm, spatulas, level, pliers, hammer, sponge, file, tile cutter, pencil.

Instructions

Before you start laying tiles on, you need to carefully prepare the walls. They must be even so that the tile lays well and lasts a long time. To do this, you need to eliminate all the irregularities. Level out the protruding areas and cover the recesses with putty or cement mortar. The walls must be prepared as carefully as before applying good plaster.
Then you should very accurately calculate how much you will need. It is better to separate the number of tiles needed to cover each wall. You'll have to cut somewhere. But even a cut tile must be considered as a whole tile and rounding must always be done upward. You need to count in centimeters.

So, measurements have been taken, tiles have been purchased, and the walls are ready for work. Now we need to figure out how everything will look. To do this, you need to place the first row of tiles horizontally along the wall. If there are openings on the wall - windows, doors, etc., then laying the tiles should begin from the middle of the wall. You have to go right and left. If there are no openings or areas where there will be no tiles, you can start tiling from the corners. However, in this case they must be even, so that later the tiles do not have to be cut again.

To set a horizontal baseline, you need to place a strip on the tiles of the first row leaning against the wall and check its horizontalness using a level. The batten will rest on the topmost tile. At the level of the upper edge of the bottom tile, you need to draw a base line using a level, then nail a beacon strip 2 mm from it (taking into account the width of the seam).
The vertical baseline is marked in the same way. We need to go to the left top corner Place a tile on the wall and attach a plumb line to it. Then you can move the tile down along the plumb line. This way you can understand in which places it will stand entirely, and where it needs to be cut.
The glue should be applied directly to the wall with a notched trowel, over an area of ​​about 1 m2. The first tile should be strengthened at the intersection of the horizontal and vertical slats, then the bottom row. The tile must be pressed very tightly against the wall. To ensure that the seams between the tiles are the same, you need to use spacers. Any glue that comes out of the seams should be wiped off immediately with a damp cloth.

And kitchens. It is moisture and heat resistant, durable and easy to clean, and the variety of textures and shades allows the material to fit into any interior. It is known that the cost of laying tiles with the involvement of professionals can double the cost of repairs, so skilled owners prefer to do it themselves. About how to lay tiles in the kitchen correctly and without extra costs, you can find out from our article.

Size and calculation of the number of tiles

Kitchen apron

In order not to make a mistake with the size and size, before purchasing you should evaluate the premises and the planned scope of work. For small kitchens, it is recommended to purchase mosaics or tiles 10x10 cm, and for spacious ones, tiles with a side of 20 or 30 cm are more suitable. Regarding color and texture, the choice is limited only by the wishes of the owners, but to make the room look harmonious, it is worth choosing a material to match kitchen set and other design elements.

Measurements of the room will help you determine the amount of tiles. You need to measure the area of ​​the wall or floor that you plan to tile, add a 10% margin to it for possible damage to the material during installation and trimming, and then divide by the size of one tile. That's how you'll know exact quantity needed for repairs.

Pay attention! If there are sockets, switches, pipes and other objects at the installation site that require cutting tiles, it is better to purchase tiles for the kitchen with a good supply.


Calculation of coverage in the "Tile" program

Another way to find out the required amount of material is to use a special online program. Many construction sites have built-in calculators that, when entering initial data (length and width of the surface of interest, tile dimensions), will quickly calculate the need for tiles. The advantage of such services is the ability to choose a laying option, which significantly affects material consumption.

Preparing the surface for installation

Laying tiles in the kitchen begins with preparing the surface. The first priority is to level the walls. If the surface condition is satisfactory or there are minor flaws, it is enough to cover it with plaster (2.5 cm thick), and walls with cracks or differences in height should first be sheathed with plasterboard and only then proceed to cladding. It is also necessary to eliminate the remains old paint, if available. Used for washing special solutions, and the flaky coating is scraped off with a sharp spatula or scraper.

Leveling walls with plaster

For cladding, choose moisture-resistant plasterboard and attach it to wooden slats or a profile nailed to the walls every 40 cm. To make the surface smooth, the ends of the material are cut at an angle of 45º before joining. After installation is completed, putty is applied to the seams and fasteners, and then the material is coated with a primer in two layers. If the walls were leveled with plaster, treatment with a deep penetration primer is also required.

When, in addition to wall cladding, it is planned to lay tiles on the floor in the kitchen, the previous covering is dismantled, and the surface concrete screed check for horizontalness. If crumbling areas are detected, the damaged material is cleaned. Then the surface is dusted off and a mixture for repair is prepared, usually a standard one. cement-sand mortar or cement-based adhesive.


Priming the coating

Potholes and cracks are filled with the mixture, carefully leveled and left to dry. Then the floor is primed in two layers, using an adhesion-improving composition, for example, “Concrete Contact”. After complete drying, the surface is ready for further work.

How to lay tiles in the kitchen?

Laying tiles in the kitchen is not an easy task. At the same time, wall and floor cladding has its own nuances and differences. In addition to the material you will need:

To fix the tiles, any polymer-cement adhesive composition intended for interior works. The most famous is “Ceresit”, but it can be replaced with a cheaper domestic analogue.

Advice! If there are indelible traces of paint or other defects on the surface, it is better to purchase cementless glue.

Wall covering

Apply markings

Let's look at how to lay tiles on walls correctly. Usually in the kitchen only open surfaces are tiled. work area, the so-called apron. If you also choose this option, you should indicate with a horizontal line the level at which you will end kitchen table and washing. At this mark they are fixed with dowels metal profile, which will become a support for the bottom row of tiles. Before fixing, you need to check with a level that the profile is placed correctly.

Then you need to prepare an adhesive solution. To do this, the mixture is diluted with water in accordance with the instructions and mixed with a drill with special nozzle. Then the solution is allowed to brew for 10 minutes and stirred again. Laying the tiles begins immediately after mixing the adhesive.

Important! To prevent the glue from hardening on the spatula during pauses in applying the solution, the tool must always be in a bucket of water.

The adhesive mixture is applied to the tiles with a flat spatula, and then the excess is removed with a serrated tool so that even strips of mortar are obtained on the tiles. Spatulas are selected depending on the size of the material. For tiles with a side of 10 cm, use a tool with 6-8 mm teeth, and for larger ones - with 10 mm teeth.

Application of the solution

To ensure that the tiles are securely connected to the wall, the material is applied in the selected place and pressed tightly evenly. The resulting result is controlled by the level and, if necessary, immediately leveled. The process is repeated until all the tiles have been laid. Crosses are installed between the rows to regulate the position of the tiles and the thickness of the seams.

Often it is not possible to cover the entire surface with solid tiles. It is better to do it with a tile cutter, but, as a last resort, you can do without it by making an incision with a glass cutter and carefully breaking the tile along the line. But this must be done carefully and, preferably, with gloves so as not to cut yourself on sharp edges. To cut more complex contours, for example, for a rosette, it is recommended to use a grinder with a diamond blade.


Correct installation will be checked by level

Laying tiles on the floor

Having chosen tiles for the kitchen floor, you first need to practice laying it without glue. By laying out the tiles in several ways, which will be described in more detail below, you can choose a more suitable and easy-to-implement pattern. If you identify places where the material needs to be trimmed, you should not do this in advance. Cutting and laying small pieces is carried out at the end, after completion of work with the main part of the coating.

Distribution of adhesive composition

Having decided on the installation option, the surface is cleared of debris and an adhesive solution is prepared. Floor tiles, unlike wall tiles, are attached with a double layer of glue. The first is evenly distributed over the floor with a notched trowel, and the second (5-6 mm thick) is applied to the material with a regular trowel.

Regardless of the method, laying tiles on the floor always starts from the center of the kitchen. To make it easier to navigate, apply a marking and lay out the first four tiles along it, checking the level. The tiles need to be tapped rubber mallet for a tight fit and air removal. Further laying of the material is carried out in a circle, starting from the first row, then the edges are lined. Crosses are installed between the rows in the same way as in the case of wall tiles.

Once installation is complete, you should wait at least 3 days before starting to walk on the surface. Then the seams are treated with a grout mixture and the tiled floor is ready.

Grouting joints

After the glue has dried and the dividing crosses have been removed, it is necessary to grout the tile joints. To do this, use a special powdered composition, which is diluted with water to a medium-thick consistency. Grout colors come in different colors, so you can match it to the cladding.

Grouting tile joints

The mixture is evenly distributed over the seams using a rubber spatula or a piece of wire. suitable diameter. The grout takes 4 hours to set, after which the excess is removed with a damp sponge or rag.

Interestingly, using grout you can further refresh an already worn tile covering. How to update old tile in the kitchen? Very simple. Seams that have lost their color, and sometimes are affected by mold, are the main reason for the unpresentable appearance of the tiles and, if the material itself is still in good condition, it will be cheaper to update the grout.

The old mortar should be removed using a jointer or an awl, the joints between the tiles should be washed with soapy water and left to dry. Then the seams are treated with a primer and filled with a new grout mixture. Such repairs will not require large expenses, and the tiles can last much longer.

Options for laying tiles in the kitchen

Besides technical side question, it is worth dwelling in more detail on decorative functions tiles As already mentioned, there are different methods of laying tiles; the three most popular are the classic (“seam to seam”), “staggered” and “diagonally.”

IN classic version rectangular or square tiles, laid seam to seam. Add variety to the pattern decorative elements– panels, ornaments, materials bright colors. This method is suitable for beginner tilers due to its ease of implementation, and it also produces a minimal number of trims.


Classic version

The staggered laying creates a pattern that resembles brickwork in appearance and is more often used for rectangular tiles. It is recommended to choose monochromatic tiles for this pattern in calm shades. This option is more relevant in kitchens decorated in a traditional style.


Staggered laying

Laying tiles diagonally opens up opportunities for implementing complex compositions and looks more interesting. The installation is quite complicated, so before gluing diagonal tiles in the kitchen, you should practice and apply markings to the walls or floor. You also need to take into account that only square material is used for this method.

There is another method, less popular due to its complexity. It combines several styling options and is called combined. The pattern is made up of blocks laid out diagonally, “staggered” and “seam to seam” (all methods are not necessarily used in one pattern). This approach requires careful thought and sketching, but if calculated correctly, the result looks professional and unusual.

In addition to experimenting with installation methods, you can diversify the design by purchasing tiles with different textures or resembling another material. This could be wood-look tiles, imitation natural stone or skin. The main thing is that the color and texture are combined with the interior and the general style direction.


Combined pattern

Remember that drawing up a pattern, choosing tiles and its subsequent installation is a creative process. By choosing the right finish for walls or floors and using your imagination, you can highlight all the advantages and features of the room, and be deservedly proud of the result of your labors.