How to lay tiles on the wall in the bathroom - the experience of specialists. Features of laying tiles on an old tiled floor

Step by step photo instructions: How to count the tiles in the bathroom? How to lay tiles on drywall? How to cut tiles with a manual tile cutter? How to lay tiles on the floor correctly? And a lot of other useful information that will help you cope with the laying of tiles in the bathroom and in the kitchen.

When planning repairs in the bathroom, in any case, you have to wonder how to count the tiles in the bathroom so that you don’t have to run around the shops and look for them additionally. Let's discuss this topic in more detail.

Choosing which way to lay tiles in the bathroom

So, the bathroom will serve as an example for calculations. There is a certain proven scheme that determines the number of tiles to be purchased for any surface:

We calculate the area of ​​​​the bathroom

We calculate the area by adding the length of all the walls and multiplying the resulting number by the height. A simple example: we have a room whose height is 3, length 4, width 3.5 meters. First, let's calculate the perimeter: 4+4+3.5+3.5=15 meters. Now we multiply 15 by 3 (height), we get 45 square meters - this is the area.

From this figure it is necessary to subtract the areas of doors and windows, if any. Let our area as a result be equal to 42 square meters.

We start laying tiles on the floor from the center so that the trimmings are evenly sewn to the edges.

We consider the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe tile and its number

Now we calculate the area of ​​the tile. Example: the size of a tile is 0.3 by 0.2, respectively, the area is 0.06 square meters. Calculating the required amount is now very easy: 42:0.06=700. Adds 10% and we get 770 - the same number of tiles that you need to purchase.

In fact, the number of tiles that need to be put on the floor is exactly the same.
There is a slight difference if you plan to lay the tiles diagonally. It is necessary to add not 10% for marriage and waste, but 15% - that's the whole trick.

How to count the tiles in the bathroom video

How to lay tiles on the floor correctly

Deciding to use ceramic tiles on the kitchen floor or on the floor in the bathroom or toilet, you make the right choice, as it is really a durable and reliable option. And if you still do not have experience, then we suggest that you learn from this article how to lay tiles on the floor correctly. To do this, consider the whole process in stages.

Step one: prime

Before we start laying, we make sure that there is no need for additional sanders or screeds, which means that the floors must be clean and dry, as well as perfectly level.

In the event that the revision was successful, we begin waterproofing and priming. First of all, we prime the floor, after that waterproofing is applied, and there should be several layers of it. First, the first is applied, and after a while, when it dries, the second. After a day, you can start laying tiles.

Stage two: do the markup

First, remove the baseboards and door jambs. After that, marking lines are drawn. Ideally, you should have a plan on paper, which needs to be transferred to the floors.

Step three: prepare the adhesive solution

There are two options here - buying ready-made glue or buying a mixture and making the solution yourself. How to prepare the solution is written by the manufacturer on the package, so there is nothing complicated about it. The main thing - remember, the glue dries pretty quickly. Therefore, try to more accurately calculate the amount of solution that you will use.

Step four: laying the tiles

Using a spatula, observing a strict angle, it is necessary to apply glue to the floor and level it so that the layer is completely at the same level. At the same time, remember that the thickness of the mortar layer cannot be greater than the thickness of the tile.

So, carefully lay out the first row of tiles, do not touch the corners of the room yet, since, most likely, the outer tiles will need to be trimmed, and we will do this closer to the end of the laying process.

Step Five: Align the Tile

While you check the tiles for evenness, remember that there is a distance between the tiles, which is always the same. To do this, use the level when laying and plastic cardboard or crosses.

Stage six: we overwrite the seams

So, as soon as the tile is laid, it is not necessary to touch it during the day. After this time has passed, you can start grouting. For this, a dry grout mixture is used, which is sold in specialized hardware stores. To apply the grout, use a rubber spatula.

By the way, we note that the grout must be washed off in time, otherwise it will dry firmly to the tile, so remove its excess immediately after you finish grouting.

And a little piece of advice in the end - be patient for about a week and a half, do not test your new floors for strength. Let them dry completely and acclimate. And, of course, congratulations on gaining invaluable experience in laying tiles.

How to lay tiles on the wall

How to properly lay tiles on the wall - many people ask this question, after which the majority of people call specialists to carry out this work. In fact, you can do this simple thing yourself, even without prior experience. The most important thing is to plan everything in detail, which this article will help to do.

Tile laying tool (Optimal set)

So, from materials you need to purchase:

• tiles
• primer
• tile crosses
• grout.

From tools you need to have:

• roulette
• level
• roller
• tile cutter
• pencil
• with a simple spatula
• notched trowel
• rubber spatula.

As for the preparation, then, of course, the walls must be perfectly even. If this is the case, then we prime the walls using a regular primer, and wait until everything dries.

How to lay out the first row of tiles

The most difficult moment in the process of facing the walls with tiles is the smooth laying of the first row. This is so important because further rows are stacked, focusing on the first. The first row of tiles is applied to the wall, the place where the lowest of the tiles is located is marked (along the upper edge).

This is done so that the tile does not move down (shrinkage of the tile).

As soon as you have made the markup and fixed the profile, the main process begins. The glue is diluted based on the conditions described in the instructions, and its uniform application to the tile begins with a conventional spatula. A notched trowel is used to remove excess adhesive.

It is necessary to attach the tile in such a way that it is above the aluminum profile and press it well. When this is done, the level is taken and the position of the tile is adjusted if necessary.

Since gaps (even) must remain between the tiles, special cross-shaped spacers (called "crosses") must be used.

Further, by analogy, you need to lay out the entire bottom row of tiles, laying it in the same plane as the rest, and using a level to check. It will probably be necessary to cut the tile that will be in the row of the very last, because it usually does not fit in its entirety. To do this, use a tile cutter or grinder.

Laying subsequent rows

Once the tiles of the first row are laid, check that the adhesive under the tiles is evenly distributed. Voids should not appear.

The second row of tiles and all subsequent ones fit in the same way. As soon as all the tiles are laid, the aluminum profile is removed and the bottom row is laid. If necessary, the tiles are trimmed.

Grouting tiles

And, of course, the final stage of work is grouting tiles (seams). It is carried out in a day, when the glue is completely dry. The grout is diluted based on the manufacturer's recommendations. It must be applied carefully, working with a rubber spatula, evenly distributing it along the seam.

Grouting tiles

After that, the tile is wiped with a damp sponge, excess grout is removed.
Actually, that's the whole process of laying. If everything was done this way, then the result should be smooth and beautiful.

How to lay tiles on drywall

Drywall is an excellent building material that allows you to speed up certain work and redevelopment processes. Using it, you can create a new architectural form, and perfectly level the surface, and much more.

In this article, we will analyze how to lay tiles on drywall, as this question confuses many due to certain technical difficulties. Therefore, we will consider the whole process in stages.

Laying tiles on the walls in the bathroom - we start from the bottom row, and put it on the bar set to zero

Plasterboard sheets: a small nuance installation

A profile is laid under the drywall in increments of 40 cm, and no more, since later the tile can peel off, and the seams can deform under the weight of the tile.

Sheathed surface: puttied and primed

Now you need to prepare drywall for laying tiles. To do this, each butt seam between the sheets is treated with a special putty and mesh applied to the joints, which increases the stability of the base and forms a monolithic structure.

Laying tiles on drywall

In fact, the scheme for laying tiles on drywall is standard:

• Working with a notched trowel, we apply glue to one square meter of the surface;
• By pressing on the tile with your hands, it is fixed and leveled;
• In order to make beautiful seams between tiles, use crosses;
• The tile adhesive must be allowed to dry (the required time is indicated by the adhesive manufacturer);
• The work is completed with a grout, which, in turn, is coated with a special varnish so that the seams do not become moldy.

So, you have learned how to lay tiles on a drywall base. If you follow all the recommendations, then there is absolutely no need to call specialists to provide these services and spend much more money on it. Laying tiles on drywall yourself, you can not only save money, but also gain new useful experience. Good luck!

How to lay tiles on drywall video

Laying PVC tiles on the floor is a simple and effective way.

Laying PVC tiles on the floor is a fairly simple job, the main thing is to follow some simple rules. In order for the process to go well, it is necessary to responsibly treat the preparation of the surface and the purchase of quality materials. But let's take a closer look at the laying work itself.

Preparation for laying PVC tiles

Surely you know that before laying the flooring, you need to prepare the floors. They must be cleaned, leveled and dried. There should not be any pits and recesses, if they are, then you need to cover them with putty. As for the laying technology itself, PVC tiles require a perfectly dry surface.
For laying PVC, you will need the following tools:

• 1. Tape measure, pencil and cord - for marking.
• 2. A metal square and a knife - for cutting materials.
• 3. Sponge, rubber roller and spatula - for the main laying process.

As for the material - please note that PVC tiles require a special adhesive, which is designed only for PVC material. No other glue can be used. As soon as all the tools, materials and coating are available, the surface is prepared, we begin laying.

Laying PVC tiles

The first thing to do is markup. Determine where the center point is in the room and mark the center line using a marking cord. From there, the tile laying will go.

As for the glue, it always comes with instructions from the manufacturer, which simply and clearly explains the technology of its application and the amount of time it takes to dry, you can also determine the exact amount of glue you need and other nuances. The glue is applied with a spatula, making sure that it covers the surface with an even layer, and there are no areas left “not smeared”.

The reverse side of the tile has laying direction indicators, which is very convenient. You lay the first tile along the center line, the rest is laid in accordance with the first. Typically, the tile pattern is repeated approximately every four tiles. Therefore, to obtain a beautiful result, do not lay tiles with the same ornament side by side, otherwise they will visually merge.

In order for the tile to be more plastic and pliable, you can use a building hair dryer. However, for this purpose, a regular hair dryer is also suitable.

Do not forget that during the laying process there should be no gaps, and the tiles should be even in relation to the previous tiles. Once you have finished laying, go over the entire surface with a rubber roller. Then you need to get rid of excess glue that remained in the seams. This is done with a damp sponge.

It is worth noting that the adhesive must be removed before the tile dries. And after half an hour you need to once again walk on the surface of the tile with a roller.
That's all. And after watching the video below, the installation process will become even more understandable for you.

How to lay pvc tiles video

How to cut tiles with a manual tile cutter

If you are renovating your apartment yourself and working with tiles, be prepared for the fact that it will have to be cut. Accordingly, you will need not only the tool itself (for example, a manual tile cutter), you also definitely need to know how to cut tiles with a manual tile cutter. Let's talk about this process in more detail.

The manual tile cutter is a semi-professional tool. Its advantage is that it is autonomous. Outwardly, it resembles a cutting table, pasted over with a material that is embossed and elastic. The place of the cut with sharp ribs, above them there is a cutter, which has a convenient handle-lever. The price of a good manual tile cutter is about a hundred dollars.

How to use a manual tile cutter correctly

In fact, everything is quite simple:
- Fix the tile and cut it right where the future break will be.
- Lower the lever, thereby breaking the tile into a couple of pieces.

In terms of time, one tile will take you no more than a minute of time. But, as always and in everything, there are some little things that you need to know in order for the cuts to turn out to be of high quality:

• 1. To make sure the cut is straight, draw a line on the tile with a felt tip pen, it will need to be aligned with the wheel to make the cut.
• 2. When you cut the tile, one hand should hold it and the other hand will hold the wheel handle.
• 3. Raise the handle until the wheel touches the top of the tile. Move the handle of the tile cutter towards you.
• 4. It is quite enough that you press lightly, because if you overdo it, you can simply break the wheel.
• 5. After you have marked the line so that the cut is even and of high quality, where the base of the handle is located (this is approximately the lower third of the tile), install the wings. It is better to glue them with adhesive tape, then the finished tile will not have traces.

In general, these are all nuances. There is nothing complicated in working with such a tool as a manual tile cutter. It is only important to understand for yourself how to use this device correctly. And the tips and videos will help you.

Ceramic tiles are one of the best materials for finishing rooms with special operating conditions. Such cladding is not afraid of exposure to high humidity, temperature extremes, abrasion load, in itself is very attractive in appearance, easy to clean. In a word, for kitchens, bathrooms, bathrooms - it’s better not to find it. And what is even more important - it is quite possible to cope with the process of laying it yourself.

Why does it make sense to try to do the cladding with your own hands? It’s just that even if the laying surfaces are perfectly even, you will have to pay about the same amount for the services of the master as the material itself costs, and this is even at best. Such expenses can be completely avoided. By getting to know our instruction article how to lay tiles on a wall, the reader will have a clear understanding of all stages of work, from surface preparation and tile selection - to grouting. And for sure he will be convinced that there is nothing supernaturally difficult in performing such a finish.

Preliminary steps

Preparation of surfaces for finishing

It is completely pointless to start facing work on an unprepared wall for this. Some novice home craftsmen naively believe that a layer of ceramic tiles will reliably hide all the "ugliness" of the surface, and as a result you will get a straight beautiful wall. They are sorely mistaken!

What does the preparation process include?

• It is imperative to get rid of the old wall decoration. Will not, for example, hold adhesive tiles on a painted surface. Or even their small fragments are completely excluded. If previously there was a tile on the wall, then after its dismantling, all sagging and drops of hardened glue should be removed.

• Be sure to check the quality of the plaster layer, if any. All problematic, crumbling areas are removed immediately. It is necessary to tap the entire area, to identify places of instability, which are also subject to removal. And most often it happens that if an exfoliating area is found in any one area, then everything else will be pulled from it, that is, the plaster has to be knocked down completely.

• In no case is it ignored if traces of their biological damage are found on the walls - mold spots, fungal colonies, etc. Antiseptic priming is carried out on all surfaces without exception, but if this microflora has already settled, then you will have to carry out a preliminary “treatment” of the wall

• There should be no gaps or cracks on the surfaces. If they are identified, appropriate repair work is carried out to ensure their high-quality sealing.

• The wall must be flat, that is, it must be a plane, and not a twisted, littered, protruding or concave surface. On the aligned walls, the tiles fit without problems. Yes, there are methods for leveling walls precisely by installing ceramic cladding. But, believe me, not even all experienced craftsmen like to do this, since this task is extremely difficult. And if a newcomer has a "debut", but there is nothing to even think about it. It will be much easier to align - and the finish will definitely turn out to be of high quality.

There are many ways to level, and some of them, for example, using moisture-resistant drywall or gypsum fiber plates - are not so complicated and do not require much time.

Prices for moisture resistant drywall

moisture resistant drywall

How to independently align the walls for decoration?

Do not be afraid of this task in advance. There are many technologies available that are quickly mastered even by beginners. Moreover, the laying of tiles does not require the ideal smoothness of the surface - the correctness of the geometry is enough. are discussed in detail in a special publication of our portal.

• Ceramic tiles are most often installed in rooms with high humidity, so you should also think about reliable waterproofing. To a greater extent, this applies, of course, to the floor, but it also makes sense to provide for walls waterproofed"belt" at least 100 ÷ 200 mm high from the floor along the entire perimeter. In addition, it is desirable to reinforce with waterproofing sections of the passage through the walls of water and sewer pipes, the area around water outlets.

And in frankly “wet” areas of the wall, for example, around a bathtub, washbasin, shower stall, etc., it is generally better to perform waterproofing solid. Approximate dimensional standards for these sections are shown in the illustration:

• Finally, the wall must be carefully primed with a deep penetrating compound. This measure will completely remove dust from the surface, eliminate the phenomenon of moisture absorption. That is, the wall material will not take water from the tile adhesive, allowing it to harden in optimal conditions. Achieve the best adhesion performance. In addition, many primers also have antiseptic qualities, and such preventive treatment will never become superfluous.

If the absorbent qualities of the material are high, then the primer treatment is performed twice, always waiting for the first layer to dry completely. As a rule, the primer is applied immediately after the completion of the preparatory work. But if for some reason there is a significant time gap between this stage and finishing, then it would be desirable to apply the primer again - a day before the installation of the tile begins. So a quality result will be guaranteed.

Wall primer prices

wall primer

Drawing up a project and choosing the necessary tiles

It is clear that these two issues are closely intertwined. In this publication, we will not analyze design approaches to choosing the interior of a room - we will focus only on some practical aspects.

Planning the location of tiles on the walls

Of course, the owners must already imagine what they want to see in the end. Surely familiar with the approximate range of tiles presented in the store. That is, they just have to “fit” the selected collection into the specific dimensions of their premises.

Here "by eye" should not be relied upon. The best option is to draw up a graphic diagram for each of the walls separately. Especially if it is not supposed to be a continuous cladding with one type of tile, but with decorative inserts or friezes, or with division into sections. Some material manufacturers offer online programs on their official websites that allow you to optimally place tiles on walls. If this is not possible, you will have to sit on your own or in a graphic editor, or simply over paper diagrams.

• In horizontal rows, you can start with a whole tile from one of the corners, that is, the cut edge will fall on the opposite side of the wall. Naturally, in this case, the least noticeable angle is chosen. But you should immediately figure out which fragment will remain in the corner? If it is too narrow, then it will be very difficult, if not impossible, to remove this area accurately. And on the front side of the room, that is, attracting the eye of the incoming, such an arrangement will also look very ugly. Therefore, it often makes sense to choose such an arrangement to start from the center of the wall - aafterfrom it is laid to the edges with the same trimming on both sides.

It all depends, of course, on the size of the wall and tiles. It often happens that the alignment seems to be optimal when the vertical axis of the wall coincides with the center of the tile, and then there is a wiring to the sides with, again, symmetrical trimming along the edges.

Undercut edges are easy to hide by laying solid tiles from a corner on an adjacent wall. If two cut edges converge in the inner corner, then this can also be solved by grinding one of them. On the outer corners, a decorative corner copes well with this task. More details will be discussed later.

• They also show the necessary "creativity" when planning vertical rows. So, the laying does not look particularly advantageous, which under the ceiling will end in a narrow section. It is better to plan a solid tile for this place, especially since its upper edge is very often covered by a suspended or stretch ceiling.

But it is quite possible to start a narrow section first from the floor - there it is hardly noticeable, and the cut edge of the tile will become completely invisible visible in the corner between the floor and the wall. To be more precise, then this bottom row is generally recommended to be laid out last, so no problems with precise trimming are foreseen. All this will be shown below.

However, other circumstances may influence the choice of the starting horizontal line. These can be features of the design project (for example, the use of contrasting rows or friezes), and the placement of plumbing fixtures. For example, it is always recommended to place tiles near the bathtub so that the horizontal seam is hidden below the rim by 20÷30 mm. This will not violate the aesthetics of the installation, and will bring the vulnerable seam out of the most “wet” area.

• When planning the placement of rows, vertical and horizontal, do not forget about the thickness of the tile joints. Let this not seem like a trifle: when using not very large tiles, but on a large wall, the difference is considerable.

Excessively thick seams when laying on the wall are most often not required. Usually limited to gaps of 1.5 ÷ 2 mm. Moreover, after grouting the joints with a fugue, the visual effect of the thickness will change somewhat - the gaps will appear wider.

• It is clear that when drawing up schemes, it takes into account the number, size and location of inserts - friezes, borders and other decorative elements. If a fully-fledged plan for each of the walls is constantly at hand, then there is much less chance of making a mistake during the laying process.

Some nuances of choosing ceramic tiles for walls

With tiles designed for walls, it is much easier than with floor tiles. The indicators of its strength, abrasive resistance, roughness, etc. fade into the background, since they do not play a decisive role here. You can concentrate on decorativeness and, of course, the quality of the material.

We will not talk in detail about all the intricacies of the choice - this is a separate issue. But some important points still need to be emphasized.

Prices for ceramic tiles

ceramic tile

• There is a wide variety of formats available for sale. But you should not immediately chase large tiles. Firstly, it does not look appropriate everywhere. Secondly, when laying it, a lot of waste can remain, and since it is usually not cheap, it turns out to be expensive. And thirdly, the installation of such a cladding requires a certain amount of experience, and a novice master may not be able to cope with the task - any mistake will be in sight.

If the first independent laying of tiles is ahead, then it is better to proceed from its average dimensions, for example, up to 300 ÷ 400 mm along the long side.

• should have a water absorption of no more than 3% - this is usually indicated on its packaging.
• If wall cladding is planned in unheated rooms or even on the street, then you should look for a material marked with a snowflake pictogram - it is not afraid of freezing.
• Without fail, all purchased packs of tiles of the same type are checked for batch matching. The fact is that the same article, but released in different shifts, may slightly differ in tone of color. Visually in the store, this is most often not noticed. But after laying on the surface, even a small difference can spoil the overall look.

• Of course, they try to purchase tiles of the highest grade possible. Even at the factories, products are sorted, and products with shape distortions go on sale as second- or even third-rate. With them, you can be exhausted when laying.
• Manufacturers also sort tiles by caliber. It is clear that they always try to bring the dimensions of the finished product closer to the declared standard. However, the specificity of ceramic production does not yet allow achieving a unique match in the size of all tiles without exception. On the packaging of the tile, its caliber can be indicated - an alphabetic or numerical designation, and a plate with its decoding can be attached.

It is clear that tiles of the most accurate caliber have a higher price. But all preference should be given to her, since unjustified savings can lead to unsuccessful finishing, and in eventually the total costs will be clearly “in the red”.

• In any case, it will not be possible to do without tile waste. And sometimes it becomes impossible to acquire the missing quantity - the desired batch may not remain on sale. That is, the stock is made in advance. Usually they start from 10% - with a competent layout and high-quality cutting of the material, this is enough. If a diagonal layout is assumed, then the stock can be increased to 15% - there will be more waste anyway. But we note right away that it is not recommended to get involved with diagonal mounting without a good work experience. Therefore, in this article, intended more for beginners, it will not be considered.
• Feel free to ask the store to check all purchased tiles - there is no guarantee that they will not be damaged during transportation. Yes, and explicit marriage sometimes comes across.

• Even first-class tiles of the same batch and the most accurate caliber should still be carefully sorted into several groups at home. The highest quality, with perfectly matching dimensions, is best set aside for facing the most visible critical areas. The tile is a little worse - push it "to the periphery". And the one with the most significant size distortions or with minor defects should already be used for cutting to fill sections along the corners or the floor.
• The number of tiles is usually calculated by the piece. This can be done if a qualitative scheme is drawn up. And even more so, you will have to do this when you plan to use several varieties to create a special decorative interior.

But in the case when it is supposed to cover the entire area with one type of material, you can also use the calculator, which is located below. There it will be necessary to indicate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bfinishing, the dimensions of the tile and the width of the tile joint. Reserve 10 or 15 percent will be taken into account when choosing the layout principle.

5061 0

Repair. A word that terrifies almost every homeowner who has waited for this “happy” moment of his life. It is terrible not only because of the “destroyed” housing, dirt and debris, strangers in the apartment, but also the need to spend large sums on holding this event. Basically, the financial costs will consist of two items: the purchase of the necessary materials and the remuneration of specialists employed in work related to the repair.

Facing can be done using various adhesive compositions

Repairs associated with facing any premises, for example, tiles, are especially costly. In addition to the high cost of finishing material, the services of professional tilers cost a lot. And therefore, it would be absolutely reasonable to want to lay tiles with your own hands, saving a lot of money on this. In addition, this task is quite feasible, you just need to know how to properly lay ceramic tiles on the wall and floor.

Choice of materials and tools

Any work, including do-it-yourself tiling on a wall, begins with the purchase of consumables and the preparation of the necessary tools and fixtures. So, the technology of wall cladding with ceramic tiles requires the following elements:

Materials:

• primers;
• tile or other finishing material;
• adhesive mixture;
• crosses;
• fugue.

Instruments:

• tile cutter or any device for cutting tiles
• a set of spatulas (rubber for grouting, conventional for applying glue to the surface, notched for distributing the adhesive);
• level;
• roulette;
• pencil or marker.

To get started, you need to prepare materials and tools

The choice of a device for cutting ceramics depends on how much tile you need to lay with your own hands, the scheme for laying it and the physical characteristics of the facing material. It can be either a professional electric tile cutter with great performance, or a modest manual glass cutter.

Foundation preparation

Before laying the tiles, the surface to be finished must be inspected and a decision made on how to bring the base to acceptable parameters. After all, how smoothly the surface will be made depends on the final quality of the lining, the complexity of the process and the consumption of material.

If the base does not have significant depressions and bulges, then the preparation may be limited to one or two leveling and plaster layers and the work steps will look like this:

• dismantling of the old lining;
• cleaning the wall of adhesive residue and dirt;
• surface treatment with antiseptic and primer;
• base plaster.

A modern range of waterproofing materials allows you to choose reliable and easy-to-use products.

In this case, you can do the preparation yourself, because the described works do not require special qualifications and many home craftsmen can do it with their own hands.

To facilitate plastering with your own hands, laying plaster will be correct using special plaster beacons.

There are options when the differences are so large, or the wall is significantly “littered” in one direction or another, that it is not possible to level it with plaster. Then you need to do this by building a new base from drywall or OSB sheets mounted on a frame from a special profile. Then the surface is processed by traditional methods and you can start laying tiles on the walls.

Choice of scheme, markup and laying method

Correctly laying tiles on the walls can be done in several ways, here are the main ones:

• classic layout or seam to seam;
• in a run;
• diagonal or rhombus layout;
• combination of various schemes (modular layout, carpet, offset, etc.).

If you want to lay tiles on the wall with your own hands, but you don’t have enough experience with ceramics, then it would be right to dwell on the first two options, since the remaining methods require certain skills in handling the facing material.

Having chosen the scheme according to which the tile will be laid on the wall, you need to mark the base. So that during subsequent installation, the tile lays flat on the wall, with the least amount of trimming, and, accordingly, waste, this must be done very carefully. For this, a laser level is used, which provides the most accurate marking, but in its absence, you can get by with a regular tape measure and a plumb line.

When facing vertical surfaces, it should be remembered that it is necessary to indent from the floor surface

In order not to mark the wall with a directly laid fragment (which is also allowed), for convenience and speed up the process, you can prepare a wooden lath, on different sides of which draw several dimensions of the length and width of the tile, taking into account the thickness of the seams. At the first stage, we determine the position of the ceramics horizontally, applying a measuring rod to the wall, we find the optimal location of the tile, and the place where the elements will be trimmed if necessary. It can be both at the floor and at the ceiling, or half of the fragment is at the bottom and half at the top.

Then we move on to marking the location of the ceramics vertically. To do this, the measure is set horizontally on the wall and it is determined in which direction it is better to shift the stacked elements in order to obtain an aesthetic appearance of the wall surface to be lined.

Before laying ceramics on the wall, you still need to decide which method is better to put ceramics on:

• From the center. With this method, the cut fragments are symmetrically located on both sides of the wall.
• from one of the corners. Laying tiles in this case should be from the most visible angle.

Mounting

The technology of laying ceramic tiles on the wall consists of several stages:

1. Dilution of the required amount of tile adhesive.
2. Applying the adhesive mixture on a small surface of the wall and spreading it with a notched trowel in such a way that the adhesive evenly covers the area to be lined. If the base is uneven or in hard-to-reach places, the mixture can also be put on the tile, also leveling it with a comb.
3. Laying begins with whole fragments from the vertical axis or from a visible angle. At the same time, you constantly need to monitor the vertical and horizontal level of the elements. Crosses are used to form a uniform width and aesthetic seam.
4. To put the fragments exactly one relative to the other, the protruding ceramics are easily tapped with a mallet until they are set in the desired position.
5. As the work progresses, the seams between the ceramics must be cleaned of adhesive residue.
6. Having faced the surface with whole fragments, you need to trim the tiles. If there is little trimming, then you can get by with a manual tile cutter, but in the case of large amounts of work or if you need to make the cut fairly evenly, it would be more appropriate to use an electric tile cutter.
7. After the tile is completely laid on the wall, the remaining adhesive is removed from it and a pause is made for a day until the final setting of the adhesive mixture with ceramics.

In order to avoid excess consumption of glue, due to its rapid drying, it is not recommended to prepare a lot of adhesive mixture. The optimal amount of the mixture should ensure the laying of one square meter of tiles on the wall.

Grouting

The technology of laying tiles on the wall is completed with the processing of seams and their jointing with special fugue grouting compounds. After removing the crosses from the seams, the stage of final surface finishing begins:

Grouting is carried out 24 hours after wall cladding

• preparation of the grout in accordance with the instructions, usually located on the packaging of the fugue;
• using a rubber spatula, the grout is distributed between the tiles. The movement should be in the form of a "Christmas tree" relative to the seam line;
• excess composition is removed with a plastic spatula and a damp sponge;
• you can give the seam a rounded shape with a piece of electrical cable or other suitable object;
• joints of tiles with furniture or plumbing equipment are treated with silicone sealant.

After the final hardening of the fugue, in order to improve the moisture-resistant qualities of the cladding and give an aesthetic appearance to the tiled floor, ceramics can be coated with a polish.

So, the tiles on the walls are laid, the seams are properly processed, so that the repair can be considered complete and enjoy the work done by your own hands.

Apartment renovation

How to lay tiles on the floor- in this article, with detailed explanations and photographic materials, we will tell you how to lay ceramic tiles on the floor of a toilet or bathroom. We will also highlight the features of floor tiling in rooms with a small area, since in large spaces it is necessary to use complex expensive tools, which require a certain skill (projection laser level, level), and labor-intensive technologies. In addition, you most likely will not need to lay tiles on the floor in an apartment with a huge area of ​​​​tens and hundreds of squares. Well, even if this becomes necessary, it is still better to start with a small room.

So, for example, we will lay tiles on the floor of the toilet. As the main material we will use 30 x 30 cm commercial grade granite ceramics, choose the color to your taste, and quick-drying tile adhesive. We will make the joint width 4 mm, as this is the most optimal size for floor tiles of this format.

Surface preparation

Before the production of work, it is necessary to prepare all the tools and materials (glue and tiles). We dismantle the toilet, having previously disconnected it from all communications (sewer riser and cold water), plug the drain pipe with burlap or any other rag. We remove the old coating from the floor (etc.), if the old ceramic tile remains, it is necessary to beat it all off, then we take out all the construction debris from the toilet, the floor must be swept and wiped with a wet cloth.

Before laying the tiles on the floor, you need to use the level to check the slope of the floor and find the highest point - it is in this place that the adhesive layer will be the thinnest (about 0.8 cm). In this case, we do not consider manufacturing, since there is hardly a person willing to wait 3 days and live all this time without using the toilet. If you still decide, then fill the floors to the required level. In such a small room, a slope of one meter is permissible up to 0.5 cm. We will assume that the floor from our example is almost flat, and the deviation does not exceed the permissible limits for the entire length of the bathroom.

Having prepared the floor surface, we cover it with a roller with liquid acrylate primer. For convenience, take a small roller - and for such tasks it is almost ideal (it takes on little primer, it is inexpensive, it can be used many times).

If you have a wooden lining under the toilet, it is better to remove it and fill the void from it with concrete. If there is no time to do this, then you just need to thoroughly soak the lining with soil, literally pour it on top, without diluting it at all, and level it properly. But in this case, it must be borne in mind that the piece of wood must be strong, because when attaching the toilet bowl, if the self-tapping screw accidentally gets into the joint between the lining and the floor, it will not hold.

You need to wait about an hour for the primer to dry completely. Then you can proceed to the next step of laying the tiles on the floor.

Dry tiling

Before you start laying tiles on the floor with glue, you must first lay it dry. The small volume of the room allows us not only to lay out solid tiles dry, but also to mark and trim most of the non-solid ones. Laying tiles in the bathroom is more convenient to lead from the pipe, and not from the corner. As a result, from the beginning we mark and cut out the tile that will lie under the pipe.

According to the dimensions obtained, we cut out the tiles of the desired shape. In the best case, a wet diamond cutting machine is used.

After trimming, lay the trimmed tile so far only on a dry one under the pipe. It should be noted that the tile will rise higher due to the layer of tile adhesive, so it is not necessary to trim it too tightly to the pipe itself. It is necessary to take a margin of 15 - 20 mm. from each side.

Then all adjacent tiles are marked and cut off. Using a tape measure, the distance to the wall is measured (in two places), and the dimensions of the seams and indents from the walls are subtracted from this distance.

On this, the preparation for laying the tiles on the floor is completely finished, and you can proceed to the lining.

So, we dilute the tile adhesive in the right proportions (read the instructions).

Next, apply an even layer of adhesive to a small area of ​​the floor using a notched trowel. It is not necessary to cover a large space with glue at once, it is enough to spread it on an area equal to 1-2 tiles, because if something goes wrong, and after a while, the glue will dry out and will be unusable. Before laying, it is advisable to lightly wipe each tile from the back with a damp cloth to remove ceramic chips and dust from it, which will impair adhesion. It is not necessary to strongly wet or wash porcelain tiles, as they do not absorb water well. But there is no need to rush either.

how to lay tiles on the floor

We lay the first row of tiles and wedged the tiles with crosses to create a beautiful even seam. If suddenly the tile protrudes too much above the surface of the common row, “drown” it with back and forth movements, or slowly settle the tile with a rubber mallet.

how to lay tiles on the floor

If the tile, on the contrary, sags, you need to carefully tear it off the surface and apply more glue to the base. If your seams diverge, then you need to wedge the tiles from the side of the wall. For wedging, you can use crosses, as well as plastic or wooden wedges. For additional fixing of the tiles, you can use masking tape. When laying the second row, check if there is a slope of the surface using a level.

Next, continue laying out the rows, checking the slope of the floor, wedging the seams with crosses and removing excess glue. For these purposes, a special sponge for tiles is best suited, but in its absence, you can get by with an ordinary sponge or dishcloth. However, in order not to clog the sewer riser with tile adhesive residue, be sure to rinse the sponge in a bucket of clean water before washing the sponge.

It is better to clean the seams of excess glue using the same crosses. When cleaning, it is necessary to wait a little until the glue mixture dries slightly, then it will become much easier to clean it, but it is also not worth waiting for a very long time.

Gradually lay the floor with tiles in rows, there is no need to rush. Check every tile.

The main thing in the laying process is to remember the exact order of all the necessary operations: they applied the adhesive mixture to the floor, then picked up the tile, wiped it with a special sponge, applied glue to it, pressed it to the floor surface, leveled it, checked the slope with a level, spread it with crosses removed excess glue. They reported the row in full, checked it, and started the next row.

how to lay tiles on the floor

We report the tiles to the last row, for its laying it is necessary to measure and trim the tiles.

And the ceramic tiles on the floor are actually laid. It remains to wait for the glue to grab, clean the tile from its remnants and wipe the seams. How long does this job usually take? On average, it will take you from 4 to 5 hours (taking into account the preparation and dismantling of the toilet bowl), but if there are any difficulties, then the work time can stretch up to 8 - 10 hours. Some more time will have to be spent on installing the toilet, installing the threshold and grouting and putting things in order, that is, the duration of the general work on tiling the floor will take about two days.

We hope that this article helped answer the question - how to lay tiles on the floor? Good luck with your repair!

Floor covering calculator

The calculator contains general average data for preliminary calculations.

As you now know, ceramic tile bathroom wall tiling has many advantages over wall painting or wallpapering.

The tile has excellent hygienic properties. It is easy to clean, not afraid of detergents. Does not support the spread of mold and mildew.

Ceramic tiles are not afraid of high temperature and humidity. Even a direct hit of water on tiled walls will not lead to any consequences.

The tile has high decorative qualities, thanks to which you can always choose tiles of the desired color and pattern for repairs.

Also, the advantages of tiles include its durability. For many years, the tile is able to maintain its original appearance. Sometimes you just need to wipe it with a damp cloth with soapy water to wash off the dust.

As you can see, there are quite a few advantages of ceramic tiles over other types of finishing materials. But there is one significant downside. Laying tiles requires some experience in performing such work and is the most time-consuming and expensive type of bathroom wall decoration.

Let's see how to tile bathroom walls step by step.

Preparing walls for tiling

Before proceeding directly to gluing tiles, you need to properly prepare the walls.

As a rule, wall preparation comes down to removing old paint, puttying and applying a primer to better adhere the tile adhesive to the wall surface.

Old paint can be removed in a variety of ways. To do this, you can use a special chemical agent or mechanical methods - a grinder, a puncher, an electric drill. You can read more about surface cleaning in the article on wall painting.

After the surface is cleaned of old paint, you need to repair cracks and chips, if any, in the brickwork.

You can repair cracks with putty, carefully leveling it with a spatula where necessary.

Only after the putty is completely dry can you proceed to the primer of the walls.

After the surface of the walls is prepared for gluing ceramic tiles, you can proceed to the preparation of the adhesive.

For this, dry mixes are used, specially designed for the preparation of a solution on which the tile is glued. When buying a dry mix, be sure to check that it is suitable for making adhesive for tiles laid in a damp room.

The ratio of dry mix and water, as a rule, is indicated on the packaging. In a container of a suitable size, mix the dry mixture with water using a mixer until a homogeneous pasty consistency is obtained.

Tile layout

Before you start laying tiles, you need to decide on the layout of the tiles. As a rule, bathroom walls are finished with rectangular tiles, with their long side parallel to the walls. This orientation of the tiles will visually make the ceilings higher, which is important for decorating a bathroom and a bathroom in a modern small-sized apartment.

But you can choose any tile orientation you like. In addition, decorative inserts should be taken into account if you use them when decorating walls, as well as borders.

Below is a video on how to properly lay out tiles when tiling walls:

How to lay the first row of tiles

As a rule, the first row of tiles is laid out not from the floor, but from a flat horizontal line at the height of the second or third row of tiles. This is due to the fact that the floor does not always have an absolutely flat surface, and when laying out the first row along the floor line, further rows may not be even.

In addition, sewer pipes often lie on the floor, which prevent laying out the first row even with a perfectly horizontal surface.

Therefore, for the first row, it is necessary to mark the wall using a hydraulic level and, according to the marking, strengthen the metal profile for drywall or another even guide support along which the first row of tiles will be laid out.

It is advisable to lay out the first row at such a height that an even number of rows of tiles remain from it to the ceiling without trimming. If you are planning a suspended ceiling made of pvc panels, stretch ceiling or aluminum rails, then this moment will not be so important, since the upper edge of the tile will be hidden behind the false ceiling.

Often work begins, taking as a basis for the first row the side of the bath, adjacent to the wall. In this case, the side of the bathtub is sealed with masking tape so as not to be damaged during the process of laying out the tiles, and they begin to apply glue to the wall.

The adhesive is applied with a straight spatula (trowel) to a small area sufficient for laying 2-3 tiles. The thickness of the tile adhesive layer should be 5-7 mm. The applied layer is stretched with a spatula-comb.

After that, a small amount of tile adhesive is applied with a spatula directly to the tile itself and also combed over it to give unevenness for better adhesion.

The tile is pressed with force into the layer of adhesive applied to the wall. After that, using the level, you need to check the horizontality and verticality of the first tile, since then all the following tiles will be aligned with it.

In order to maintain the same gap between the tiles when laying on the wall, special crosses and liners should be used. The thickness of the crosses is usually 1.5 mm. This is enough to get a nice even seam.

If a whole tile does not fit in the corners, then it needs to be cut. To do this, use a special tool called a tile cutter:

If you do not have a tile cutter, then you can cut the tile without it. Below is a video on how to cut tiles without a tile cutter (click on the triangle to play):

If you need to trim the border, then it is best to do this with a grinder: