The leather sofa was torn at the seam. How to fix torn leather: Sofa or armchair upholstery, jackets and coats like new. Necessary materials and tools


Pet owners know how difficult it is to keep furniture from being damaged by claws and teeth. Do not despair and go to the store for new furniture. Our material presents a selection of cool tips on how to quickly and effortlessly fix the damage from excessive activity of baleen and caudate ones. Creative renovation of furniture will not only hide annoying flaws, but also make the interior more original and comfortable.


1. Upholstery upholstery


One of the best options for badly damaged sides of the sofa is to cover them with new anti-claw material. Then the furniture will take on an updated look and in the future will not suffer from excessive activity of the cat's claws. It can be any dense fabric with a smooth pile, such as fleece, jacquard, velor, velvet, satin or artificial suede.


You can make inserts in a contrasting color or tone, as well as add original decor in the form of rivets, snake or sisal rope, if the interior is made in eco-style.

2. Super option for a leather sofa


For those who have furniture made of genuine or high-quality artificial leather, damaged areas can be fixed using a special "liquid leather" paste. Before applying it, the surface of the sofa or chair is degreased with alcohol (using a cotton pad or cloth). Then the crack or torn place is filled with mortar with the utmost care.


From above, the paste is pressed with a napkin and ironed with an iron so that the liquid evaporates. If the color of the "liquid skin" is chosen correctly, then the defect on the furniture will be completely invisible. The solution fills the entire cavity, and under the influence high temperature melts and becomes one with the native material of the furniture.


3. Lace or knitted patches


With such a patch, no one will guess that it was made intentionally to hide the damaged upholstery. Looks gentle, neat and unbanal. Elements for decor can be knitted independently or bought. Before sewing them on, you need to process the material of the sofa: remove all protruding threads and “spools” so that a smooth surface remains. After preparation, carefully sew the openwork parts to the place of the upholstery rupture.

4. Decorative cape


Hide damaged upholstery or save new furniture from damage by animals, you can use a beautiful blanket or a special decorative cape. The choice is multifaceted: contrasting, colored, plain or patterned colors. The cape performs not only a practical function, but is also able to present the entire interior of the room in a new way, adding a special zest to it.


In the store you can pick up a cover that covers the entire surface of the furniture. If you choose several options, then they can be changed according to your mood or every season so that the situation does not bother. These covers are very easy to care for: they can be removed and washed.

5. Beautiful patch


You can fix the damage caused by pets with the help of fantasy and embroidery threads. This stylish alternative to conventional sewing will provide furniture with a stylish and exclusive design without extra costs. Threads can be matched to match the sofa or in a contrasting color. The choice of pattern also has no limits: abstraction, floral ornament, flowers or geometry.

6. Patchwork - stylish and relevant


Patchwork or quilting is an easy way to securely disguise any imperfections in upholstery. It can be made from any leftover fabric that can be found at home. We select by colors beautiful option, sew right amount pieces of fabric and voila!

With a badly damaged upholstery in this style, you can create a bright cape - it will not take much time and will significantly save the family budget.


7. Creative solution - mosaic


Mosaic can be used not only for walls, but also for furniture decoration. It has a self-adhesive base, so it is very convenient even for beginners. Before updating the upholstery, it is fixed with a construction stapler so that the base is strong. After that, the worn parts of the furniture are glued with a plain mosaic or a picture with any ornament.

To prevent attacks on furniture, you can apply

Good furniture has always been expensive. And, despite the fact that it is, unlike, more durable than its cheap counterparts, it also becomes unusable. Especially upholstered furniture, such as a sofa, because it is constantly used. And when this happens, the question arises before us, what to do with it? What to do with a sofa in which the upholstery has lost its aesthetic appearance or the springs have broken free? There are three ways to solve this issue: throw it away and buy a new one (the most expensive option), call a furniture repairman or, armed with a tool, repair the sofa yourself.

We note right away that the last two solutions, for albeit “old”, but high-quality wooden sofa. Cheap sofas, the frame of which is made of chipboard, are very difficult to repair and in most cases it is easier to purchase a new one. But if the frame is intact, you can try to restore it too. So, to repair the sofa with our own hands, we need, in addition to desire, to know the structure of the sofa, the materials that are used and the sequence of work. Our article will try to answer all this.

sofa design

Before proceeding with the repair, let's look at the elements of the sofa and their purpose. And although your sofa may differ from the one shown in the picture, nevertheless, the purpose of the main elements is identical. The sofa consists of:

  1. The armrest can be made of wood, chipboard, MDF, metal, it can be soft (upholstered).
  2. Upholstery fabric or leather, there are quite a few big variety upholstery material, both natural and synthetic.
  3. A layer of synthetic winterizer or batting.
  4. Foam rubber, in high-quality sofas, furniture with a density of 35 mm is used.
  5. Polyurethane foam pads are not used in all models. It serves for additional cushioning and weight distribution, thanks to such inserts, the surface of the sofa has orthopedic properties.
  6. Spring block, the main shock-absorbing structural element.
  7. Burlap or felt prevents unpleasant sounds from rubbing metal against plywood.
  8. Fiberboard, serves as the base of the sofa mattress.
  9. The frame of the sofa can be made of wood, metal and chipboard.
  10. Flazelin.
  11. Rail for rollers, can be located at the bottom of the box for the bed and be either wooden or metal.
  12. Box or niche for bedding. ​

Design and design features may differ from the presented version, but all these items will be in stock. Therefore, when you disassemble your sofa, you will know the purpose of certain parts of it.

Let us consider in more detail those parts of the sofa that affect its main characteristics.

Frame - basic Basic structure. Production material: wood, metal, chipboard or combined. The durability of the entire sofa depends on the quality of the selected materials and its assembly. Chipboard, fiberboard are used as panel elements and parts of the frame filling.

Sofa filling. This includes all materials between the frame and the upholstery fabric. The layout, types and quality of these materials determine not only the life of the sofa, its convenience, but also its environmental Safety. In more detail about the materials that are used to fill the sofas, we will talk in the second part of the article.

Transformation mechanism. The type and design of your sofa depends on the design of this mechanism. That is, if the mechanism of your sofa is, say, “click-clack”, then it will not work to make a “Eurobook” out of the sofa. Is it possible to change the elements of the frame, and this is tantamount to creating furniture with your own hands. In addition, the comfort of using such furniture depends on the quality of manufacture of such mechanisms. Not to mention the time of operation before the first repair.

Types of materials and accessories

We have come to the second part of the article, where we will take a closer look at the materials for filling sofas and transformation mechanisms. This needs to be known at least in general terms, since in addition to disassembly and assembly, you will also have to go to the store for the appropriate elements and materials. And since the choice in modern stores is very diverse, and sellers are not always eager to help the buyer make a reasonable purchase, it remains to rely on your own head and intuition.

Let's start with an overview of the main mechanisms of transformation. To date, the following options are usually common:

  • Book, the most common option and the most reliable. The seat rises to a click and falls - the sofa is laid out.
  • Eurobook, the design of such a sofa is transformed as follows - the back cushions are removed, the seat rolls out and the back is lowered in its place. ​

  • Eurobook "tick - so", unlike the previous mechanism, the seat does not roll out, but moves in a semicircle.
  • Accordion, the sofa layout mechanism is implemented according to the accordion principle. Consists of three parts. When the seat is slightly raised until it clicks, the mechanism moves forward, spreading the sofa. Repairing the accordion sofa mechanism makes almost no sense if the elements are bent, they can be leveled, but since the transformation takes place with effort, the mechanism will again bend in that place.


  • Click - klyak, allows the sofa to have three positions of the sofa, "relax" (half-folded) and the actual bed. It should be noted that such sofas have a metal frame.

​​

  • Dolphin is used, as a rule, in corner sofas, in the lower part of the sofa there is a strap, by pulling which the transformation mechanism is activated, the second part leaves bed and rises to seat height.

If the transformation mechanism is faulty and needs to be replaced, buy the type that was originally. Other types of mechanisms are not interchangeable, they simply will not work. So, for example, when repairing a sofa “click-clack”, the mechanism for transforming a sofa-book will not work, despite the fact that the difference is only in one position - “relax”. They are different both in size and in the principle of operation. And the frames of such sofas are different.

Consider the materials that are used in filling the sofa. The best option there was and still is a spring block that is lined with burlap and covered with burlap and batting. But this is one of the most expensive options. Therefore, to reduce the cost, foam rubber and calico are used. In the cheapest versions of sofas, the spring block is generally abandoned and replaced with several layers of polyurethane foam, comfort, etc.

Since we do everything for ourselves, we need enough quality materials. These include:

  • Polyurethane foam (PPU) is environmentally friendly pure material with increased wear resistance. To repair the sofa, we need special furniture foam rubber, as a rule, it has a thickness of 40 mm or more. It provides maximum comfort seats.
  • Hollofiber is a material that perfectly retains its shape throughout long term operation. Environmentally friendly and safe. Refers to "breathable" materials, allows you to produce wet cleaning sofa.
  • The synthetic winterizer - elastic - elastic material, is ecologically safe. It has a high resistance to fungal contamination, does not absorb water and gives softness and relief upholstered furniture.
  • The quilted jacket is a kind of sandwich - two layers of coarse fabric with a 5 cm layer of cotton wool. Excellent material for covering the spring block.
  • Periotek - has a high resistance to deformation, holds its shape well. Hypoallergenic, durable and heat-resistant material.

And the last necessary material for repairing a sofa is upholstery fabric or leather. Leather is a very troublesome business, and it is better to entrust the repair of leather sofas to professional furniture makers. But with fabric it is much easier and you can replace such upholstery yourself. All upholstery fabrics are divided into woven and non-woven textiles. In this case, non-woven, as a rule, have a synthetic base and a synthetic coating. The most common upholstery fabrics are:

  • Flock is a soft, pleasant to the touch material. Strong, durable, does not fade. Good for cleaning with neutral detergents. Composition: approximately 65% ​​synthetics and 35% cotton.


  • Velor - pile fabric. Unlike flock, it is woven, not glued. Accordingly, it is more durable and natural, but the price is higher. The basis of two types: cotton and wool.
  • Jacquard - artificial silk, very durable material with high resistance to fading. The fabric is made in two layers, so either side can be used in furniture upholstery.
  • Chenille - strong and durable, velvet fabric. They produce two options: adhesive and woven, the latter are more natural and, accordingly, more expensive. High-quality chenille is prone to the formation of pile on the surface.
  • Tapestry - natural upholstery fabric, you can say "elite" among upholstery materials. Easy to clean with detergents. The most expensive material


sofa repair

We got acquainted with the structural elements of the sofa, selected and purchased the materials, it's time to take the tool and repair it. For this work we need:

  • Screwdrivers, flat and Phillips;
  • Pliers;
  • A set of open end wrenches for 8/10 and 12/14;
  • Stapler with a set of staples 10 and 16 mm;
  • Joiner's glue or, at worst, PVA;
  • Scissors, a fitter's knife and a hammer;
  • Self-tapping screws 35 - 45 mm long;
  • If there is a screwdriver or a drill, we put a bed in the access zone.

Upholstery replacement

All repair work require complete or partial disassembly of the sofa. It is advisable to carry out these works in two persons, but if it is not possible, you can use wooden blocks as a backup. Before disassembly, prepare a camera (mobile with a camera) or a piece of paper and a pen. This is necessary in order to mark the installation locations of some elements and their correct position(right / left, etc.).

Dismantling the sofa begins with the armrests. In some models, they can be combined with legs, in others separate. In the first case, put wooden beam under the base of the sofa, so that it would “hang” from one end. So you will not pinch the bolts of the side elements. The "sides" are fastened with two bolts, in order to get to them it is necessary to raise the seat of the sofa, or pull out the retractable part, it depends on the design of the sofa.

After having dealt with the armrests, it is necessary to remove the transformation mechanism. To do this, use a screwdriver or screwdriver / drill. It is attached with one part to the frame, and the other to the seat and backrest. AT regular sofa- it is not difficult for a book, it is enough to turn the seat and backs with a soft part to the floor - access to the mechanism is free. When repairing corner sofas with the "dolphin" mechanism - there are no special problems either. In other models, it is not so free, nor should there be insurmountable difficulties. Accordion sofa repair is similar. We take pictures or write down which mechanism, where it stood.

After that, depending on the design of the sofa, it is necessary to disassemble the rest of the sofa, back and seat, so that the frame remains. All these elements either freely “sit” in their places, or are bolted.

This is followed by the removal of the upholstery, since we have to replace it, then we remove it from all parts of the sofa. This is easy enough to do with a regular flathead screwdriver and pliers. At the same time, we take out all the metal parts, whether it be screws, nails or staples. Make sure you don't miss anything, if they stay later on they might break through already new upholstery, which is very embarrassing.

After removing the upholstery, take a closer look at the mattress, if its condition is suspicious, disassemble it as well. Read more about mattress repair below. In this case, we need to replace the upholstery. We removed the old one and now we have two ways to solve the replacement problem. The first is to try, as in workshops, to sew a cover. For this you need to have sewing machine able to sew coarse fabric and sewing skills. You can use the services of a tailoring studio. And the second is to upholster by hand. If the design of the sofa is not intricate, it will turn out easily. But in the case of complex design solutions still have to sew a cover. With a cover, changing the upholstery is much easier, because. You just need to pull it and fix it with staples, the dimensions are already adjusted.

If the cover is sewn, we stretch and fasten it with a stapler with 10 mm staples around the entire perimeter. In the case of manual stretching, the procedure is as follows: we measure the exact length and width of the sofa element that we plan to upholster, cut it out, it is possible with a small margin, the main thing is to have enough tension. We always start fastening the fabric from the front side, you never know, it will suddenly be a stretch. It is better to fold the edge of the fabric in half, so there is less chance that the fabric will break through at the place where the staple is attached. Fasten the entire front side with staples. After that, we perform the same procedure with opposite side. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the fabric is as stretched as possible around the entire perimeter. Creases or tissue separation from paralon or silicone are not allowed, it must be tightly pressed against it. After that, we move on to fastening on the sides, fastening in the center. Then you need to lay the fabric in the corners, the excess can be cut or wrapped. We sew up.

Thus, we change the upholstery on all elements of the sofa. It is important to ensure that all the staples fit tightly into the tree, we finish it off with a hammer. If some staples do not “fit” - remove them, in the future they may cause damage to the new upholstery.

After the change - proceed to the assembly. Assemble in reverse order of disassembly. We put all the elements in their places, twist them with bolts, install the transformation mechanism with the help of new self-tapping screws. Don't confuse right with left. We put the armrests, twist and admire the work done.

Foam rubber replacement

This repair is almost the same as replacing the upholstery, with the only difference being that we keep the upholstery and do not change it. Usually these two works are combined, but the situations are different, and if the “skin” of the sofa is in good condition, why is it also spent on fabric.

The disassembly procedure is similar, we need to get to the foam rubber. We delete the old one. As we already know, we need special furniture foam rubber, with a density of 35-40 mm, this is a guarantee of the durability of your repair. If the springs have broken through the foam rubber, it means that the replacement of the spring block cover will also be required. We cut out the burlap, tarpaulin or batting, which is available, in size and cover the block in two layers. Cut out the foam and lay on top. With the help of staples we fasten the foam rubber to the frame, it is also possible to glue it to the burlap. The main thing is that it is fixed. We put a synthetic winterizer on the foam rubber, it is not necessary, but it will greatly facilitate the stretching of the fabric. You don't need to fix it. We stretch the weave, fasten it with staples and assemble the sofa.

Repair of the frame and transformation mechanism

Disassembly is similar. To repair the sofa mechanism, remove it and determine the degree of damage. If the fittings are intact, it may be enough to lubricate the nodes with engine oil and develop them. You can replace the spring if it is damaged, if it is overstretched, try shortening it. The transformation mechanism itself is deformed or burst - we acquire an identical one and install it.

It will be more difficult to repair the frame, but you can do it quite well. If there are cracked or broken frame elements, they must be replaced. To do this, measure their exact dimensions, draw their appearance and, taking the money, go to the nearest carpentry shop or construction hypermarket, there is a department that will cut necessary element frame. Change the element, twist and glue the remaining joints. Wherein Special attention note the plywood under the spring block. If she "walks" fasten with screws instead of nails and glue the PVA, the unpleasant creak will disappear when you sit on the sofa. Collect and use to your heart's content.

Restoration of the spring block

Disassembly - assembly is identical. There are two types of springs:

- "old" - height about 20 cm, diameter - 15 cm, thickness - 5 mm;

- "modern" - height - 12, diameter - 10 cm, thickness 2.2 mm.

All modern springs are interconnected by a spiral. To replace damaged elements, if there are not many of them, it is necessary to dissolve the fixation of the spiral from one end, and unscrew it like a screw with the help of the other end. We release the spring on both sides, change it, twist the spiral and then proceed as when replacing foam rubber.

If there are a lot of such damaged elements in the spring block, it is easier to buy a new block, because. the rest of the elements will also begin to break down, and disassembling the sofa once every six months is below average pleasure.

It was not possible and will not be possible to mention all the nuances, but we hope that the basic procedure for repairing the sofa is clear. The main thing is to start, and over time, all the necessary skills will appear.

Do-it-yourself sofa repair video

"Help! - write the visitors of various handicraft and furniture forums, - the upholstery sold out! How to sew up a sofa along the seam so that it is invisible? Let's answer honestly: if your family does not have a professional furniture maker, then in general, no way. Of course you can try. After all, sometimes accuracy, diligence and love for your furniture can contribute to a miracle. So, first we try to fix the problem on our own.

We sew the sofa ourselves

There is a strict sequence of actions, following which a sufficiently dexterous person can dock parts of the sofa upholstery that have come apart at the seams. Here's what it looks like.

  • Pick up threads, but not in the color of the upholstery, but exactly in the color of the threads of the seams. It is desirable that the thickness and texture match. This is quite simple to do by cutting off a small fragment at the place of the parted seam. With a thread, you should go to a sewing and needlework store. There, experienced consultants will help with the selection.
  • In the same store you can buy a set of sewing needles. The main condition is that the diameter of the working needle does not exceed the diameter of the holes from the factory machine. So the home seam will be almost invisible.
  • Google the tech blind seam". There are master classes on the Internet in both video and photo formats. This greatly simplifies the process.
  • Ask someone at home to be your assistant. It is necessary that a person carefully pull the edges of the parted seam together and keep them connected while the restoration work is in progress.
  • When sewing, use only the holes of the factory needle.
  • Having reached the preserved original seam, make a couple more stitches along it, then the junction will not be a risk point for a new hole.
  • Gently pull the threads, check that there are no wrinkles anywhere.

And a secret trick: find a hand moisturizer around the house. To test, smear some inconspicuous place on the couch with it. Wait for absorption. If a greasy spot will not be in this place, feel free to smear the place of restoration. So the skin will lie more softly and naturally.

Not all resources are good

If in the case of a parted seam it is still possible to somehow repair the damage on your own, then more radical damage requires professional restoration. How to sew leather sofa if the skin is torn, burned, cut, stretched and torn?

There are several options.

  • If there is a small piece of leather from the same sofa, slightly larger than the cut, then it must be carefully pushed under the upholstery. Next, the lining from below is smeared special glue and tightened by hand. It is advisable to hold the screed with your hands as long as possible.
  • A rounded hole is already a job for liquid skin. You should purchase a set, mix the colors until you get the desired color scheme and carefully fill the hole with the compound.

These methods have a lot of nuances and give more satisfactory than good results. Indeed, in the first case, the junction of the gap will be quite noticeable, and in the second it is necessary to ideally choose the color of the color scheme, which is almost unrealistic, since in a liquid and hardened state repair material has different degrees of brightness.

Contact the professionals!

If you have doubts about your own competence or funds, it is better not to risk such an expensive thing as a leather sofa. And without the risk of coping with holes, scuffs and other skin defects, the specialists of the Fenice-TM company can do it. Unique Italian technology, appropriate equipment and materials make it possible to obtain perfect result at minimal cost.

The Fenice-TM company offers:

  • putty cracks,
  • leather polishing.

And if the sofa, according to experts, is not subject to cosmetic restoration, you can save it with a radical measure - changing the upholstery. The professionals of our company will help you create a new leather outfit for a sofa, armchairs and any other interior items. Contact us!

Any thing eventually becomes unusable and upholstered furniture is no exception. But in the case of furniture, there is an opportunity to restore it. original view and properties. This article will discuss self-upholstery of the sofa. How, what and in what order to do, what materials to use.

Damage and types of repairs

Damage to a sofa or other upholstered furniture can be of different "severity". Depending on the existing injuries, a different set of works is required. Here's what might happen to your furniture:

So sofa upholstery may include various works. From a simple upholstery replacement to a complete refurbishment, including part of the frame. The most troublesome part is with spring blocks. This is long and painstaking work. If the “historical accuracy” of your furniture is not important to you, it is easier to replace a failed spring block with foam rubber or (better, but more expensive) furniture silicone. If everything is done correctly, the sofa will become even more comfortable: incorrectly tightened springs cause a lot of inconvenience.

Types of "soft part"

In general terms, let's talk about what the seat and back of the sofa can be made of. There are options:

  • Without springs:
    • Foam rubber (polyurethane foam, the name PPU is also found) high density(also called furniture).
    • Foam latex. In terms of quality and convenience, it is better than foam rubber, but also much more expensive.
  • With springs:
    • with classic springs connected in one block;
    • serpentine springs that support the foam/latex filling.

These are the most common types of sofa seats. In more expensive models the spring block can be supplemented with a layer of polyurethane foam or latex, which makes the seat more elastic and comfortable at the same time. When constricting, then they look at the state of both parts, replace or leave - depending on the desire and possibilities.

But these are not all layers. In addition to springs, polyurethane foam / latex, a synthetic winterizer or thermal felt (or ordinary felt) is also laid. This is if the sofa is more or less modern and not too expensive. Older exhibits may have matting or burlap, batting (or something very similar), horsehair, dried algae and other now almost exotic materials for sofa stuffing. When repairing a sofa, they will need to be replaced with the same ones (if there is a desire to look) or similar in thickness and properties. So, in order to understand how a sofa upholstery should be done, first figure out what is inside it.

We disassemble the sofa and evaluate the scale of work

The upholstery of the sofa begins with its disassembly. In the process, you will be able to assess the extent of the damage and decide what exactly you will need to do. For this part of the job, you will need:

  • a large screwdriver to unscrew the visible bolts (if any);
  • a small flathead screwdriver, pliers, or a staple remover to remove the staples that hold the upholstery in place.

The main thing is to remove old upholstery. Then everything will become clear

Actually, everything. First, remove the individual pillows, if any, remove the sidewalls. It's hard to tell here - there are a lot of designs. Look carefully, you will definitely find something. If there are sliding parts, you can try to start with them.

Separating the upholstery

The next step is to separate the fabric from the frame. It is stapled to wooden bars frame. We pry the brackets with a flat screwdriver, pull them out. Some can sit very tightly, it is easier to pull them out by grabbing them by the raised back with pliers or pliers.

We remove the fabric carefully, trying not to damage too much. We then use it as a sample for a new sofa upholstery. There are several layers under the upholstery fabric. Maybe felt, synthetic winterizer, some kind of fabric. If the repair of the sofa was started only for the sake of replacing the upholstery, look at the condition of these materials. If there are signs of wear, it is better to replace. After all, it would be a shame if, in a few months, the sofa would need to be reupholstered again, but already due to the fact that the layers of the lining were worn down.

Once the fabric is off, it's time to evaluate which parts you'll need to change. With upholstery and lining under it, everything is clear. It is desirable to keep the pie in the same composition. If old materials were used that are not currently on sale or they are too expensive, replace them with modern analogues. The main thing for folding sofas- go to the same height of the seat and backrest that were before, since the folding mechanisms are designed for certain parameters"pillows". In order not to make a mistake with the thickness of materials, find unworn (or least worn) areas and measure the thickness.

Assessing the damage

This stage is needed if the sofa seat is uneven, there are humps and depressions, protruding springs (and from below too). In seats that consist only of foam rubber, everything is simple: they usually go under replacement. They can be made from high-density foam rubber, having folded several layers, you can order ready-made foam rubber in a store selling furniture parts. It is reasonable to order a latex mattress according to the exact dimensions (measure after the fabric and all layers have been removed).

If there are springs in the sofa, having removed all the covering layers, we get to them. If there are no broken springs, the frame and its connections are strong, without backlash and cracks, the substrate for the springs is in good condition, you can stop there. We change the covering layers, sew a new cover, stretch and fasten. This completes the upholstery of the sofa.

One of the common defects of spring blocks is a broken spring. There are also such sofas - with spring snakes that are attached to the frame and give elasticity to the foam mattress standing on top

If there is at least one damage listed above, the spring block will have to be separated. It is attached to the frame frame with U-shaped brackets or nails. Now you have completely disassembled your sofa into components. Next is the replacement and repair of damaged parts, and then reassembly.

Classic box spring sofa pie and possible problems

To understand how to repair a sofa at home, you need to know what layers of materials and in what sequence are needed. For example, in a sofa seat with a spring block, the sequence would be like this (from bottom to top):

  1. Frame made of plywood or wooden blocks. The plywood frame is more reliable, but it is longer and more difficult to make. Therefore, pine bars are usually used. They are connected according to the tenon-groove principle, gluing the connection with wood glue. If desired, the connections can be reinforced with dowels or corners (aluminum).

  2. Base for spring block. There may be options: lamellas (slats of elastic material), fiberboard, plywood. Most a budget option- Fiberboard, the most expensive - lamellas. The slats are attached to special stops (lat holders). When using plastic stops, there is a possibility of breakage. At the same time, low-quality lamellas can bend (in the normal state they are bent slightly up) or break - to reduce the cost, they are often placed through a large gap. All this leads to the fact that the sofa seat is pressed through. Instead of wooden lamellas, snake springs can still be used. They also have sufficient elasticity, but cost less. The problems with them are the same.
  3. The spring block. The block can be with independent or dependent springs. The first is cheaper, the second supports the body well. Such mattresses are also called orthopedic.
  4. Felt or thick fabric(Tick, another similar dense fabric will do). This layer is needed so that the springs do not push through the foam rubber above.

    If the fabric is thin, it will tear, then the foam rubber will begin to crumble. But this is not the saddest thing - the lamellas arched in the opposite direction. In the normal state, they should be curved up

  5. polyurethane foam(PPU, foam rubber - all names of one material). A special dense foam rubber is used. If you choose, in addition to density, look at such an indicator as the durability coefficient - the higher the number, the better (and more expensive). This indicator displays how long the foam rubber will restore its original shape after the load is removed. Its thickness is taken from the original, factory cake. It is possible to make thicker without restrictions only on upholstered furniture that does not unfold (bench, sofa, armchair).
  6. Sintepon. It is necessary so that the fabric does not “wash” PPU. It is usually glued to a layer of foam rubber - so that during operation it does not gather into folds. Glue is taken in a can.
  7. upholstery fabric. The best are tapestry, chenille. They do not crumble, it is easy to sew from them. Flock and jacquard are good fabrics, but some of them “creep” at the seams. Therefore, when sewing, the seams must be strengthened. By the way, it is better to sew upholstery for a sofa with special threads of the Tytan brand. Ordinary, even thick ones, will quickly tear.

These are all layers and their features. You can add something (for example, a double layer of synthetic winterizer), remove it - it is highly undesirable.

The device of the sofa on the springs "snake" and options for its restoration

"Snake" springs in expensive models are used as additional remedy to improve elasticity. In budget models, a foam block can be placed on this base. They are attached to a wooden or metal frame across the seat - each spring separately. The installation step depends on the planned load. If your sofa began to sag, or the springs lost their elasticity, or broke, it is treated by replacement.

To increase elasticity and extend the life of the sofa, the number of "snakes" can be increased when reupholstering the sofa. Another option is transverse reinforcement with hard corsage ribbons (which are used for straps on bags, backpacks).

The tape is nailed on one side to the frame. Professional furniture makers then stretch it with special tool, but you can replace it with an ordinary bar wrapped around in the middle sandpaper with large grains. You wind a couple of turns of tape on this beam, pull with both hands (make sure that the frame does not bend), fix the tape with staples or nails, release and cut off the excess. The same method is also suitable for increasing the life of a mattress with slats.

An example of sofa repair with step by step photos

The old sofa became quite uncomfortable, began to fail in places and creak. There is no way to buy a new one, it was decided to drag and change the upholstery. As usual, the sofa upholstery begins with disassembly. The legs were removed first. The railing was fastened on two large bolts, they were unscrewed and removed without any problems. Further disassembly is also easy - we unscrew the bolts that appear in turn.

When all the components were separated, the old upholstery was removed. Staples were removed easily - frame made of pine timber. The spring block itself turned out to be without defects, but there was a crack in the frame, one of the bars of the frame led, the fiberboard sank, although there were no cracks.

Frame repair

Since the frame bears the main load, it is better to replace damaged elements. We carefully measure them, draw them schematically, put down the dimensions in millimeters. With the drawing we go to the carpentry shop. Pay special attention: the wood must be dry, preferably chamber drying. If you know how to work with wood yourself, you can do it yourself.

It was decided to connect the frame, as it was, with a spike / groove, smearing it with carpentry glue. But in order not to loosen up, the connection was reinforced with metal dowels.

First, the joints are glued, clamped in a vise. A hole is drilled under the dowel large diameter, the dowel is hammered in. The frame is in a vice until the glue dries.

We will use plywood 4 mm thick as the basis for the spring block. The sheets are standard, a little more than 1.5 meters, and the length of the sofa is almost two. It turns out two pieces. It is better to make the joint of the pieces on the jumper, it is more reliable. Cut out rectangles right size, we coat the frame with carpentry glue, lay plywood, nail it with small nails. The length of the nails - so that they do not stick out from the outside of the frame. We additionally support the junction with a bar (50 * 20 mm).

The updated sofa will serve in the country, so we are trying to keep the budget to a minimum, we use an old blanket instead of a substrate for springs. We stretch it well, fasten it with staples using a manual one.

The base for the springs is an old fleece blanket

If possible, it is advisable to put thermal felt here. It is more reliable and not so expensive. It is cut to size, straightened and nailed around the perimeter. You can use staples or carnations with large hats.

Repair and fix the spring block

To fasten the spring block, you can use powerful U-brackets, and it is better if their legs are sharpened. But the stapler does not work with such, therefore, staples were cut from steel wire with a diameter of 1.5 mm, hammered.

In addition to fastening to the frame, the springs are also fixed with nylon constrictions. Twine was taken, folded in two layers, fixed with the same wire staples. We tighten the constriction so that it does not press down on the springs, but the tension should be sufficient so that the block does not “ride”.

Some dense material should be placed on top of the springs, usually felt. In this case, the old flooring. Something like felt. It is quite dense and durable. Fold in two layers, cut to size. This layer must be attached to spring block. The coating is dense, you can’t pierce it with a needle, even a gypsy one. An awl of a large diameter will do, but it is not. We pierce the coating with a nail, which we push with the handle of a screwdriver. We thread a thick thread into the holes made. The stitch pitch is about 3.5 cm. To speed up the process, we use several nails at once.

Further, “according to the plan”, foam rubber should go, on top of which a synthetic winterizer is placed. In this project, it was replaced with two layers of densely elastic material that had been stored in the attic for a long time. Instead of a synthetic winterizer, another old blanket was used. To prevent the blanket from moving, it was grabbed around the perimeter with threads (in conventional technology synthetic winterizer is glued to polyurethane foam or latex using glue from a spray can).

Case and cover

Sheathing this sofa turned out to be easy: the shape is simple, without decorations. old case they cut it open, made a pattern from a new, not very expensive upholstery fabric. In the place that falls on the corner of the sofa cushion / seat, a thick tape was sewn from the inside - so that the fabric would not be rubbed. The fabric is inexpensive, so the edges had to be tucked up so as not to fray. Often they are left untreated.

The finished cover was laid out on the floor, the restored part of the sofa was placed in it. At this stage, it is important that the fabric is stretched evenly and does not wrinkle. We began to nail the cover from the middle, moving towards the edges. Staples with thick backs are used so as not to damage the fabric.

The back of the sofa was restored in a similar way, the armrests were fitted, then all parts were screwed to folding mechanism. The thickness of the pillows matched, so there were no problems.

Sofa upholstery completed. Result checked 🙂

According to the test results: the seat turned out to be harsh, but for a tired back it is the very thing. For the house, of course, it is better to put foam rubber, and for lovers of comfort - latex.

Cut off a piece of material for the inner patch. On deep tears and cuts that expose the interior padding of the sofa, you need to use patches to create solid foundation further repairs. In a special leather repair kit, you will find not only the material for making patches, but also everything else you need. If you do not have such a kit, then for a patch you can take any durable elastic fabric or a piece of leather or vinyl. Cut out the patch so that it is slightly more hole or a cut. Round the corners of the patch to make it easier for you to insert it inside.

Put a patch under the hole. Using tweezers, insert the patch into the hole in the skin, and then straighten it under the hole from possible wrinkles and folds. Make sure that the patch completely covers the hole and lays flat between the sofa's upholstery and its leather surface.

Glue the patch to the skin. Take a large needle or toothpick and apply plastic textile glue or special leather glue to the bottom side leather upholstery around the hole. Spread the adhesive in a thin layer over the entire surface that will be in contact with the inner patch. Press down leather upholstery sofa to the inner patch, aligning the edges of the tear or cut and giving them their original position. Wipe off excess glue with a paper towel.

Place the weight on the area to be glued while the glue dries. Apply a heavy piece of wood or a book to the bonding area to apply even and strong enough pressure. Wait at least 20 minutes for the glue to dry (check the specific time on the instructions).

  • Read the directions on the glue bottle label to see if a blow dryer is needed to speed up the drying process. If necessary, set the hair dryer to low temperature heating and try not to bring it too close to the leather upholstery. Excess heat can damage the skin.
  • Clean the surface of the skin. Before using a leather crack filler, you will need to clean the surface of the leather to ensure the best adhesion of this substance. Lightly dampen a clean cloth with leather cleaner or 70% isopropyl alcohol, and then wipe the affected area.

    Trim off any fibers sticking out at the edges of the tear. This will allow you to evenly cover the damaged area with a crack filler. Carefully cut off any fibers sticking out at the edges of the tear.

  • Cover the damaged area with crack filler. If there is a gap between the edges of the gap, take a palette knife and use it to cover it with a crack filler for the skin. Use the flat end of a palette knife to smooth out the filler and remove any excess. As a result, the damaged area should become as smooth as the rest of the skin surface. Use a paper towel to wipe off excess filler and smooth the transition from crack to whole leather.

    • Crack filler is commonly included in leather repair kits.
  • Wait for the crack filler to dry. Check the instructions on the label of your product to find out how long it takes to dry. When the filler is dry, you can gently apply pressure to the repaired area of ​​the skin and check that the used product is really set and does not move anywhere.

    • If, after the filler has dried, the surface of the repaired area remains uneven, you can try applying a second layer of this substance on top.