How to upholster a door with upholstery material. Do-it-yourself door insulation with dermantin. Tiled door upholstery

The front door is the face of the apartment, says a lot about its interior decoration. Often from the side of the apartment it is decorated with decorative panels, but from the outside the surface is not decorated, fearing the actions of vandals. Such actions are fraught with the fact that the wooden surface suffers from the effects external environment, and metal - has low insulation from noise and cold.

A door that has lost its appearance is better to be updated. One of the durable ways to give an aesthetic appearance is door upholstery. It also increases noise and heat insulation in a house or apartment, which is especially appreciated by the owners of apartments on the lower floors. Upholstery is the most affordable and budget way to design doors. It does not require special care.

A new door trimmed with leather is quite expensive. good option will sew it up on his own. Every man will be able to cope with the work after studying all the stages of finishing work. The incentive prize will be insulated beautiful door absorbing annoying sounds.

The most common material for door upholstery is vinyl leather (leatherette). It has a number of advantages: it does not fade under sunbeams, does not wrinkle, retains the structural pattern, looks beautiful and elegant.

Properties of vinyl leather for upholstery

To strengths faux leather include:

Long service life. The material does not lose its properties for more than 10 years.
Simple care. For cleaning, use a damp cloth, and to add shine - cream.
Moisture resistance. The material does not absorb liquids and performs well in high humidity conditions.
Frost resistance. Low temperatures do not reduce technical qualities material, its decorative properties.
Wide range of colors. On sale are various shades all colors: from dark to pastel. This allows you to easily choose the right color for a harmonious interior design.
Antiseptic properties. Vinyl leather is resistant to rot, mold and insects on the surface and inside the upholstery.
Chemical resistance. Leatherette can be washed with many household products.
Low price. The cost of door upholstery in a country house, apartment or private house will require minimal investment.

Self-finishing wooden or metal doors with leather will solve the issue of sound insulation and will prevent heat leakage from the room, the material of the doors will be reliably protected from external environmental influences.

Among the disadvantages are:

Flammability. Vinyl skin is afraid of direct exposure to flame and ignites quickly.
Impossibility of repair. Damage to the surface of the skin is almost impossible to repair, it will need to be completely replaced.
Low strength. The material is easy to cut. Upholstery requires careful handling.

Upholstery material and tools

To work, you will need to purchase the right amount of material and some simple tools, if it is not available.

At self-fulfillment finishing work requires the following tool:

a hammer;
several screwdrivers;
construction scissors and a knife;
tape measure or ruler;
glue brush;
furniture stapler and staples 0.7-1 cm.

Materials:

vinyl skin of the desired color and size by 5-15% more area door leaf;
lining material - batting, isolon or foam rubber;

For the first time, it is better to use plastic batting, as it provides an even distribution of the material over the entire surface. If you have upholstery experience, then you can use any material. However, in the process of work, it is necessary to constantly monitor the uniformity of distribution, excluding the formation of lumps and irregularities.

polymer glue (Moment station wagon);
decorative nails with a large hat;
decorative braid for decorating and fixing the upholstery.

There is no significant difference between domestic and foreign material, except for its cost. When buying by footage, allowance should be taken into account: 15 cm for a wooden canvas and 12 cm for a metal one. The thickness of the seal should not exceed 2 cm.

Braid and nails should be matched to the door fittings and not violate the overall style. Fasteners can be bought by weight or packed in 100 pieces.

Today in construction stores they sell ready-made kits for leather upholstery of doors. A complete set will eliminate the likelihood of visiting a hardware store in the midst of construction work.

upholstery technology

There are several ways to upholstery doors with leather. The chosen option depends on the skills of the master, the desired effect and the material used.

Finishing can occur on the outer or inner side of the door, as well as on both sides at the same time.

Preparatory work

Door preparation takes place in several stages:

Remove from hinges, lay on a pair of stands that can be built from chairs or a table. The door should lie flat up on the side that will be finished.

Some masters manage to upholster the door on weight. With little experience in such work, it is better to put the door in a horizontal position.

Remove the old coating, decorative elements and accessories. Do not worry about the resulting irregularities - a layer of insulation will hide the flaws and visually level the surface. On the wooden surface it is better to apply a layer of antiseptic.
Cut out a leatherette blank, the length and width of which should be with an allowance for each side of more than 10 cm.

Creating rollers

On doors it is required to provide leather rollers that provide good insulation. Before proceeding with their manufacture, you should consider the direction of the door:

when opening from the outside, 4 rollers are required on each side;
with the inside - three is enough (the side facing the loops is not upholstered with a roller).

For wooden door, opening inwards, the fourth roller can be cut to a smaller width and nailed to the door frame, and not to the canvas.

To make a roller yourself, you need to cut a strip of material 10-15 centimeters wide. It is also necessary to cut a piece of lining material.

One edge of the strip is fixed face down on the edge of the door. One long roller is made from the lining and covered with the second edge of the leather strip. Work begins from the upper right corner, continuing on the sides and ending at the bottom. The lower roller should not touch the floor, as abrasion will occur. It is necessary to fix the rollers with staples using a stapler. They are driven in every 20 centimeters around the entire perimeter of the door leaf. It is acceptable to use nails.

For a metal door, glue is used, which coats the surface and evenly distributes the material, slightly pressing. The average consumption of glue is 100 ml per side of the door. Before applying the adhesive, the surface must be degreased. Next, glue is applied to the ends of the doors and the skin is pressed. Excess material is cut off with a knife.

door cover

Stretching steps:

Door insulation. A blank of paralon or batting is laid on the canvas, and covered with leather at the top. The largest allowance should be on the side of the loops.
Tuck the edges of the leatherette, hiding the edges of the insulation inside.
Fixing the canvas with nails. Start hammering decorative carnations should be from the side of the castle. They are evenly distributed over the entire area so that the seal does not slide down, forming an ugly fold at the bottom of the door. The number of nails depends on the aesthetic criteria and the type of filler. Not sheet material should be hit more often.

During upholstery for decoration, you can use fishing line or thin wire, which is pulled between the nails.

To make the close-fitting on a metal door look neat, the edges of the material are tucked and fixed with staples from the inside. Glue is applied to the lining material, folded and pressed upholstery. All work should be done slowly, gradually moving in one direction.

With a wooden door, everything is easier. The edges are folded and nailed with decorative nails in 15 cm increments.

During the fastening of the sheathing, it should be controlled that the fasteners of the rollers do not look out from under the edges of the material. A few millimeters recede from the edge of the door so that the skin does not interfere with the movement of the door in the opening.

Hardware installation

Installation of fittings takes place at the final stage of tightening. In all places of the technological holes, it is necessary to make small incisions on the skin and lining material. To determine the location of the cuts, it is enough to feel the old holes through the upholstery. Peephole, lock and door handle installed in the correct places.

With the help of decorative nails, you can easily make the desired pattern on the surface of the door. After all work, the door can be reinstalled on the hinges.

For better insulation, you can purchase rubber compressor and glue the perimeter of the box with it.

"Lazy" trim

This method of sheathing is not much different from the classic one. Its only advantage is that finishing can be done without dismantling the door from the hinges. The method is suitable for doors with a large mass.

Operating procedure:

Cut a canvas from a roll of leather according to the size of the door with an allowance of 15 centimeters and 4 strips on each side 14 cm wide.
A similar canvas and strips are cut out of the insulation.
Remove the door handle, lock and peephole.
Fix the insulating rollers: nail one side to the edge of the door leaf, lay the insulation and wrap the other side of the strip.
Lay the insulation, keeping an even distribution. Fasten with staples at a distance of 5-7 cm from the edge of the door leaf.
Apply leatherette on top with a minimum allowance of 5 cm. Temporarily fix on the surface of the door.
Start upholstery from the side of the castle, carefully tucking the edges and fixing with decorative nails. Pass along the entire diameter of the door. When nailing, the material is constantly stretched so that the surface is even.
Fasten the fourth roller to the door slope from the side with a loop.
Screw on the previously removed fittings.

Features of metal door trim

Metal doors can be upholstered in two ways. The first is democratic and consists in gluing the material to the canvas. Another option is more expensive, based on the use of special panels. It allows you to get a more beautiful appearance, insulation and will last much longer.

Budget way

It was previously mentioned that the fastening of the material to the metal surface occurs with the help of glue. For greater clarity, let's take a closer look at the order of operations:

Glue is applied to the edges of the door and foam rubber is fixed to it. All excess material, peeking edges are cut off with scissors or a knife.
Apply glue to the top edge of the door. During operation, the formation of folds and distortions is monitored. They can only be fixed while the glue is still wet.
After fixing the skin with a clerical knife, excess material is removed.
Installing locks and handles.

Using Panels

For outer upholstery, MDF linings are used, which are made different sizes. At the end, the door will look no worse than its factory counterparts.

The inner side is upholstered wall panels, which allows you to choose the material for any interior of an apartment or house. MDF can imitate the texture of expensive wood. The only drawback is that it requires careful operation. Plastic panels are simpler and cheaper, but more practical.

Stages of work:

Measure the door. Corners on the inside to increase rigidity will help you measure the depth correctly. The inner height is equal to the distance between the bottom and top corners. Width - the distance between the side corners. All dimensions are required to properly quantify timber and foam sheeting.
In a hardware store, you need to purchase panels, foam, wooden beam, decorative corner with a margin of 15%.
Saw the bar into 4 parts, the width of which should be equal to the width of the door leaf. They take a bar, apply it to the door and mark the line along which the cut will be made with a pencil. Similarly, they produce with the lower part and in the middle. All 4 bars should be located at the same distance.
With an electric drill, make 16 holes for fasteners in the door: 4 holes for each bar. The diameter of the drill must match the size of the self-tapping screw.
Fasten the bars, forming a frame for attaching the panels.
Make holes for attaching decorative panels. Their number is indicated by the manufacturer in the instructions.
In the pan, make holes for the lock, handle and peephole.
Fix panels.

Upholstery on the inside:

Fasten the frame bars as described for outer side.
Cut the foam into pieces so that they lie in the space between the bars. Make holes in it for fittings.
Lay foam or other insulation, you can fix it with glue.

Attach panels. For plastic, a stapler is used, and for MDF, with kleimers.
Fasten a decorative corner around the perimeter of the door to hide the edges of the upholstery and give it a more attractive look.
Install the lock, peephole and doorknob.

Upholstery of the door with vinyl leather allows you to restore the appearance of the door on a budget, eliminate drafts and noise from landing. The work does not require special knowledge and skills, it is performed in one day. Compliance with technology and following the advice will help to quickly and beautifully finish the front door, which will not only delight in appearance, but will also become an insurmountable barrier to street noise and cold air.

If you have any questions, then the stages of work can be traced on the video. The specialist will tell and show in detail all the stages of fastening the upholstery material, give valuable advice.

If the theater begins with a hanger, then any dwelling starts with the front door. It is good if the door is solid, able not only to ensure the safety of the apartment, but also to keep warm. But what if the door leaf has already lost its former appearance? Heat will escape through cracked cracks in winter, and an untidy entrance can cause the same opinion among guests about the hosts themselves. Leather upholstery can be a solution to the problem.

Material selection

The ideal material is leatherette, genuine leather is a very expensive pleasure. Today, the choice of leatherette is wide both in color and quality. It should be taken with an allowance of 30-35 cm more sizes the door itself. For the manufacture of rollers, you will also need 3 strips of 15 cm wide.

Insulation uses sheet felt, synthetic winterizer or foam rubber. Depending on the intended volumetric pattern on the door, the thickness varies. The pattern is made using fishing line or thin wire and nails with various decorative caps. You will also need thin bundles of foam rubber or polystyrene foam with diameters up to 20 mm.

Surface preparation

First of all, it is necessary to dismantle all removable elements: door handles, peephole, lock lining. Then, if the door was previously upholstered, it is necessary to remove the old upholstery, then inspect the canvas and remove the remaining nails and staples.

The cleaned canvas should be treated with anti-fungal compounds. After that, the door is removed from the hinges, and all subsequent work is performed on a horizontal surface.

upholstery

The upholstery of the door can be performed not only from the outside, but also from the inside. At inner lining additional insulation elements are mounted along the perimeter of the door leaf using a stapler. To do this, it is better to use ready-made foam rubber bundles wrapped in leatherette strips.

It should be remembered that the rollers should protrude beyond the dimensions of the door by 20 mm, blocking the gap between the leaf and the door frame. On the hinges, the roller should completely cover them. You should start from the top right corner. Then vertical bundles are attached, while the lower roller should not rub against the floor.

Upholstery material is laid. It should be wrapped around the insulation by shooting with a stapler. Decorative nails are hammered around the perimeter at an equal distance from each other.

Before starting the sheathing of the outer side, markings should be made, outlining the perimeter closed door around the box. This is the border of the future upholstery. Stepping back another 10mm, the insulation is attached. After that, a leather substitute is nailed along the line, with the edges bent, as is the case with the interior upholstery.

In conclusion, handles and a peephole are attached.

Today, wooden entrance doors are practically not used. Metal doors are installed in modern private houses and cottages, providing more reliable protection for the premises. However, many houses still have wooden doors. For example, in a country house or in farmhouse, or in an apartment of a multi-storey building.

old street doors need warming, tk. wood tends to dry out, cracks appear in the door leaf, and the tightness itself can eventually deform and move away from the box. All this harms not only the aesthetic component of the door, but also its operational properties. Despite the fact that wood is a good heat insulator, the door block needs additional insulation.

Let us consider in detail how to insulate a wooden door for the winter from the outside and from the inside, so that it does not blow and the cold does not pass into the house. There are several ways of thermal insulation, depending on the type of thermal insulation material used.

How to insulate a wooden door in a private house and apartment

The standard set of materials for door insulation includes three components:

insulation;
sealant;
decorative material for finishing: leatherette, artificial leather, dense fabric.

You can buy a ready-made kit for insulating the front door (cost from 490 rubles). Such a set consists of leatherette, foam rubber, door decor rollers, tapes for fixing leatherette around the perimeter and center of the canvas, carnations with decorative caps and a sealant.

But, as the masters advise, you can pick up the necessary materials for work on your own, i.e. buy separately. If not cheaper, then better quality.

foam rubber(45-900 rubles / sq.m.) Due to the fact that the door leaf of a wooden door is solid, then the insulation is made on top of it. For this, soft insulation that can keep its shape well is best suited. Door insulation with foam rubber is justified by the low price of the material, availability, ease of installation. It also allows you to choose desired thickness, because available in thicknesses from 3 to 100 mm. To insulate a wooden door, foam rubber up to 30 mm thick is used.

isolon(thickness from 2 to 20 mm). It is produced in two types: foil (price - 150-270 rubles / sq.m.) and regular (70-80 rubles / sq.m.). The advantage of isolon is in the small thickness of the material, due to which excellent thermal insulation of wooden doors is achieved without a significant increase in their dimensions.

batting, sintapon, felt. These materials can also be used as insulation, but they are rarely used;

mineral wool(price 70-250 rubles / sq.m.) It serves as an excellent insulation, but the thickness of the mineral wool increases the dimensions of the door, which does not make it a good alternative to foam rubber;

Styrofoam(from 2500 rubles/m3). Rigid insulation used for external door insulation. The installation of polystyrene requires the manufacture of a frame and the use of a rigid decorative material (for a covering panel), which entails an increase in the thickness, weight of the door and the replacement of hinges. And by thermal insulation properties foam on the door is similar to foam rubber with leatherette upholstery.

Calculation of the amount of material for warming a wooden door

insulation. The area of the insulation is equal to the area of \u200b\u200bthe door leaf. As for the thickness, it should not interfere with the opening of the door. Users recommend using a 30 mm thick insulation. It performs its functions well and can be securely fastened with carnations;

sealant. Quantity equals perimeter door frame;

upholstery. The length and width of the door plus 300 mm of margin at the top and side.

Note. The margin depends on the height of the thermal insulation material.

Insulation of the entrance wooden door - technology

Note that in 9 out of 10 cases, the doors of a wooden house are insulated from the outside.

Method 1 - insulation with upholstery

This is the easiest and easiest way to do it yourself. Leatherette or other finishing material is stretched over a wooden door and fixed on it with carnations. Due to the heat-insulating lining (foam rubber, synthetic winterizer) and the density of the leatherette itself, the effect of warming is achieved.

Method 2 - complete thermal insulation with insulation

This option is more complicated, its implementation will take some time, so you need to start work without waiting for the onset of cold weather, or order the services of a master. A professional will do the job much faster, but it will cost more.

If you decide to do the insulation of the entrance wooden door with your own hands, then you will need a step-by-step instruction describing the procedure for work:

Inspection of the door frame. Often, over time, it is deformed, warped, etc., which leads to the appearance of drafts, because. blowing from under the door. If the door frame is in critical condition (not repairable), it is better to replace the door block. If not, repair. How to do this we will tell below.
Removing the door from the hinges. It is easier to perform work if the door is raised above the floor. Users recommend laying it on 2-3 stools. This will also help avoid scratches on the face of the door that faces the floor.
Dismantling of protruding elements and fittings. It is necessary to remove the locks, handles, lining, peephole.
Heater installation.
Installation of handles, locks and peephole.

The insulated and upholstered door is hung on hinges and its functionality is checked.

How to insulate an old wooden door - video

How to insulate the front wooden door in a private house

Ways to sheathe the door with different types of insulation.

Insulation of a wooden door with isolon or foam rubber

The installation of both materials is carried out using the same technology. Glue (liquid nails, dragon or PVA) is applied to the surface of the door and foam rubber / isolon is laid on it. Glue is needed so that the insulation does not move during operation and operation. In the future, the insulation is fastened with carnations.

There are recommendations to fix the foam rubber with a construction stapler. But this is acceptable only if hard material acts as a decor. Otherwise, dents will be visible in those places where the material will be pressed by the bracket. Or you need to fasten in accordance with the intended pattern (scheme) of the placement of carnations.

Advice. It is not advisable to install foam rubber at the installation site of the door handle, it will interfere with it reverse installation and functioning.

Insulation of a wooden door with foam

Installation of foam, although rare, also does not cause difficulties.

Option 1. A thin foam or expanded polystyrene (not thicker than 30 mm) is laid on the surface of the canvas, fixed on the surface with liquid nails and closed with finishing material.

Note. When mounting the foam on the outside of a wooden door, its width exactly matches the width of the leaf. When mounted from the inside of the door, it corresponds to the clearance of the frame. Otherwise, the door simply won't close.

Option 2. A frame made of dry wooden beams with a section of 20x30 is stuffed onto the door leaf. Inside the frame, additional stiffeners are installed from the same beam. The frame is treated with a primer. Styrofoam is placed inside the cells. Then it is closed with finishing material.

Note. The disadvantage of such insulation is that the thickness and weight of the door will increase. This, in turn, will create an additional load on the hinges.

Insulation of a wooden door with mineral wool

It can be performed both by the frame method (like foam plastic) and frameless (nailed with a stapler to the surface of the door leaf). Anyway for cotton wool prerequisite is the use of a hydrobarrier film that will protect the insulation from moisture.

Do-it-yourself upholstery of doors with dermantine

Let's briefly consider the technology of how to sheathe a door with dermantine. After the insulation is laid, it is closed with dermantin, which must be wrapped and fixed around the perimeter of the door leaf with carnations. Leatherette upholstery starts from the top of the door. During the installation process, you need to make sure that the insulation does not move to the side, and the dermantin is stretched without distortions.

Note. This installation method, despite its obvious simplicity, has a drawback - the place where the dermantine is attached can be torn, therefore, rollers are often installed at the place where the dermantine is installed.

Upholstery of doors with dermantine with rollers

The sheathing method involves the use of rollers covering the place where the leatherette is attached and the gap between the door and the frame, so as not to blow.

It is easy to make rollers - you need to cut strips from the finishing material - 4 pcs. Strip dimensions: width 50-200 mm, length equal to door height (2 pcs) and width (2 pcs)

Note. If the hinges are installed on the outside, the rollers are installed only from the side of the handle.

The cut off parts of the leatherette are attached around the perimeter of the door, a round seal is placed in them (in this case, the width of the workpiece is 50-70 mm), or a twisted insulation, or a leatherette folded into a roller (then the workpiece reaches a size of 200 mm). Dermantin closes the insulation, wraps and fixes around the perimeter.

The use of rollers allows you to beautifully decorate the place where the leatherette is attached to the door leaf and additionally protects against the penetration of cold through the door gap.

How to upholster a door with dermantine

Fastening dermantin for door upholstery is carried out using decorative nails.

Places of installation of carnations should be given attention, because. their use allows you to additionally decorate the door. Some ways of mounting studs are shown in the photo below. It is necessary to hammer in nails in strict accordance with the intended pattern. To do this, it is recommended to apply the ornament on the surface of the leatherette with a pencil or a washable marker, and then erase it.

Pattern of door upholstery with dermantine - examples

A beautiful pattern helps to create a dermantine ribbon stretched between carnations.

Attracting a master to insulate the door will cost a certain amount, approximate prices for the work are shown in the table:

In order for the insulated wooden door in a private house to fully fulfill its functions, you need to perform a few more actions, namely:

insulate the door frame. To do this, dismantle the slope, inspect the installation site of the door frame. Evaluate the condition of the mounting foam, which was used to insulate the junction of the box to the wall. If it is unsatisfactory, the foam is cut off and applied again. A new slope is being formed, which it is desirable to insulate. It is convenient to use cotton wool or polystyrene as a heater.

insulate door frame. To do this, a polymer or foam rubber seal is glued around the perimeter of the door frame.

Such a complex warming will allow you to get a good result.

Wooden entrance doors are a very finicky part of our apartments. They need constant care, protection and restoration. Of course, few of us give this subject the proper amount of time and attention. That is why they often become unusable or simply lose their presentable appearance. There is not always a desire and an opportunity to replace the old wooden product to a new one.

But you can always update it with your own hands video, give it a fresh look and aesthetics, upholstered with leatherette. How to sheathe a door with dermantine? There are many video tutorials showing how to do it yourself the right way. And with the help of a clear step-by-step instruction, it will not be difficult to do this even for people who do not have special skills and abilities. Moreover, the result will be not only external beauty, but also noise and heat insulation.

Before starting work, prepare all materials and tools. The choice of material is so great that it makes sense to think about the future design of the door in advance. Otherwise, you will walk and choose for a very long time. You will also need foam rubber 2 centimeters thick and batting, a construction stapler, a hammer, big scissors and ordinary and furniture nails. First you need to prepare the door. To do this, dismantle the door handle, peephole, hinges and all decorative elements.

Step-by-step instructions: do-it-yourself upholstery of a wooden door with dermantine video

Let's make the so-called roller, it serves as the main element of the upholstery and closes the gap between the door leaf and the jamb. Using scissors, cut a strip of leatherette 10 cm wide. Then place it inside out along the perimeter of the door leaf and attach it using a construction stapler. Instead of a stapler, you can use a regular hammer and small nails.

To avoid uneven distribution of material at fixation points door hinges it is necessary to make incisions on a strip of leatherette. Now you can start fixing the foam rubber. Lay it flat on the surface of the wooden door and secure with a stapler. Next, lay the batting on the foam layer in 2 layers. Batting is reliable protection foam rubber and protects it, increasing wear resistance and service life.

Now you can do cutting leatherette. Cut a piece of canvas the size of a door, adding 4 centimeters on each side. Lay the sheathing material evenly on the door leaf and start nailing it with furniture nails. You should start from the center, first at the top of the wooden canvas, then at the bottom. Remember to stretch the material well with your hand to eliminate any irregularities. Next, continue fastening the leatherette around the perimeter of the door, slightly turning the cut edges.

Now that the door already looks nice enough, it remains to finish the work with the rollers. Wrap the batting that remains after the door trim into a tube and wrap it in strips of leatherette nailed to the door at the very beginning of work. Nail the resulting roller with furniture nails in increments of 7-10 centimeters.

This completes the do-it-yourself door upholstery video. It remains only to install the peephole, hinges, door handle and everything decorative elements that were on the door earlier. Now you can enjoy not only the neat new look of the front door, but also your skill.

If you attach a little more imagination, you can use a metal thread and nails to create interesting drawing, which will give individuality to your door. In order for everything to succeed, see how to properly upholster the door leaf with your own hands video.

Sooner or later, but any owner of the apartment comes to the conclusion that the insulation of the front door is a necessity. Covering the door with leatherette with your own hands will help solve several important problems - these are its thermal and sound insulation and decorative design.

The fact that the door should be insulated usually comes in the cold season, when, it would seem, a draft begins to blow into very small cracks. But is it worth waiting for winter? Wouldn't it be better to do something like this beforehand?

When deciding on the transformation of the door leaf, you can turn to yourself easy way sheathing - even stretching of leatherette, or you can use more complex options when multiple pieces of material are used.

In any case, all the nuances need to be thought out in advance and prepare the necessary tools and materials for work.

Preparing for the door trim

So that nothing distracts the master directly in the process of work, you need to do the following in advance:

1. Prepare a sketch of the future skin, if it has any pattern. This may be a carefully crafted drawing or, in case of emergency, even a simple pencil sketch.

2. Based on the drawing, you can make a list necessary materials that will be needed for work:

Leatherette or artificial leather can be purchased at specialized stores, where big choice this material. There you can choose it not only by thickness, but also by color and texture pattern on the surface. Standard Width leatherette 1100 ÷ 1400 mm - it is just right for the door leaf in the apartment. 200 ÷ 250 mm are added to the length of the door leaf.

If the door is sheathed in a private house, which has two leaves, then to the dimensions obtained during measurement, you need to add 100 ÷ 150 mm, both in length and in width of the material.

Leatherette is also needed for the manufacture of rollers framing the door leaf. They are strips of material that have a length equal to the height of the door, and a width of 130 ÷ 170 mm. These elements will need three pieces.

If the door leaf is sheathed with individual elements of leatherette, then more will be needed. When calculating the material in this case, it is necessary to take into account its inward hem on each separate element by 50 ÷ 100 mm on all sides.

Another option for sheathing with a pattern can be to remove it with separate strips of leatherette. Their number is calculated depending on the selected decorative design.

Insulating material will help to achieve thermal and sound insulation.

Sheet foam rubber is well suited for insulation and sound insulation.

For these purposes, use a dense synthetic winterizer, felt or foam rubber. The material must have a thickness of at least 10 ÷ 25 mm, depending on its density and on the expected volume (embossment) of the pattern, which will be displayed using banners or decorative nails.

If it is insulated, then it is necessary to purchase foam sheets of the required thickness.

In the event that it is planned to use nails covered with leatherette or artificial leather for decoration, then it is worth choosing the color of their hats so that the whole composition looks harmonious.

The skin will look more presentable if the nail heads have enough big size and the same color as the canvas of the entire sheathing.

Another option could be nails with metal heads, repeating the color and texture of the material of handles and locks.

To finish a metal door, you will need glue, since leatherette and a thin layer of insulation will be glued to its front side. For this purpose, the universal "Moment" or "88" glue is well suited.
For the manufacture of sealing rollers, it is best to purchase a ready-made round insulation with a diameter of 10 ÷ 20 mm. It is sold by the meter in hardware stores. Such material will give the roller a neat, uniform rounded shape.

3. For work, you also need to prepare some tools:

A small hammer for driving nails.
Stapler with staples for fixing the material to the surface before driving decorative nails. Optimal size staples - 8 ÷ 10 mm.
Scissors and construction knife for cutting and cutting materials.
To dismantle the locks and handles and then install them back to their original place, you will need a screwdriver or a screwdriver with different nozzles (bits).
It will be nice to have pliers and a nail puller on hand, they can be useful for removing old trim and removing nails that have entered the door leaf incorrectly.

4. Having bought all the necessary tools and materials, you can begin the preparatory work.

First, from the door you need to remove all installed on it elements - locks, handles and viewing eye.
If the door will be sheathed, on which there is already an old finishing material, it must be removed. The nailed material can be bent with a nail puller, separating the leatherette from the surface, and then, hooking the nails with the tool, carefully remove the canvas completely.

If the insulation is not glued to the door, old cladding comes off easily. The thin layer of material remaining on the surface does not fit the new finish.

Further, some craftsmen remove the door from its hinges and, for convenience, further work, put it on several chairs or enough big table. Before removing the door from the hinges, it is imperative to make lines on the door leaf along the contour of the door frame.
In most cases, the skin is carried out in its vertical position, without removing it from the hinges.

Leatherette door trim process

As you know, the door is usually sheathed on both sides - from the outside and the inside, there are some differences in these processes that you need to know about when starting work. In addition, there is a significant difference in the technology of finishing wooden and metal doors.

And, of course, there are different ones that also need to be considered before starting work.

Paneling inside a wooden door

Getting started, you need to immediately pay attention to where the door opens - towards the entrance or into the apartment, since the location and size of the rollers will depend on this.

This publication will consider the option when the door opens inside the apartment.

The first step is the installation of the sealing rollers. They are made from prepared strips of leatherette and ready-made foam rollers or strips of other insulating material.

Leatherette is folded in half and a strip of insulation is put inside. Then, a roller is placed around the perimeter of the door, so that it protrudes 4 ÷ 7 mm beyond the canvas, since it must cover the gap between the jamb of the door frame and the door, which is formed after it is closed. On the hinge side, the roller should completely cover the door jamb. The roller is fixed with stapler and staples, starting at the top right corner. From there go to the left top corner, then frame the sides with them. It is fixed to the bottom part last.

The next step is cutting out the insulation. The size of the cut strip should be 8 ÷ 10 mm smaller than the door leaf.

It is also fixed with brackets to the door plane, leaving 20 ÷ 30 mm free along the edges so that you can wrap a decorative one between the insulation and the door. material - leatherette.

Next, you need to correctly place the main canvas of leatherette. The main thing is to prevent distortions, otherwise the work will look sloppy.

When installing the main upholstery, it is very important not to make a mistake with the exact direction of the leatherette strip and its uniform tension.

First, the top of the canvas is fixed. It is bent under the insulation and nailed with decorative nails, placing them at a distance of 80 ÷ 100 mm from each other.

After the top edge is fixed and the correct direction is checked again, the left side is nailed, and then the right. In the course of fastening, the material is stretched. The bottom edge of the material is nailed last.

Then, it is very important to precisely mark and cut the holes for the locks and the peephole.
If there is a desire to make a drawing on the surface, then you first need to mark it, and then fill the markings with decorative carnations, starting from the center of the canvas. In this case, you need to try not to pull the leatherette too much so that sagging does not appear.

Video: a lesson on sheathing a wooden door from the inside

Wooden door - outer skin

The door trim, which opens inside the apartment, from the side of the entrance is produced as follows:

Before starting work, you need to close the door, and outline the opening of the door frame on the door leaf. This line will determine the location of the trim on the door leaf. If leatherette is nailed to the entire surface, then both the door and the lock will not close.
The insulation is cut out 10 mm smaller than the outlined area, and fixed with brackets.

Further, with tucking behind the insulation, leatherette is stuffed along the marked line, in the same order as on the inside of the door - first from above, then on the sides. The bottom edge remains free for now - it will be attached later.

Insulation roller in this case, fixed on outside jamb of the door frame on three sides, and it is not installed on the threshold. This element in a fixed form should close the gaps, being on the door leaf by 20 ÷ 25 mm. But keyhole must be free, and this must be foreseen in advance.
The bottom roller should not be made voluminous, as it will simply be erased over time, and will look sloppy.

It is fixed along the bottom of the door itself, and its edge should not go beyond the marked line by a single millimeter, since in this case the door will not be able to close. This element, when closing the door, should fit snugly against the sill from above, that is, as it were, on it.

On the roller nailed to the door, the lower part of the main fabric of leatherette is pulled and nailed, or, as shown in the photo, you can hide the lower edge in the fixed roller.
Further, holes are made in the leatherette sheathing for door accessories - locks, peepholes and handles. They need to be cut very carefully, without expanding more than necessary.

Video: how to sheathe a wooden door with leatherette from the outside

Metal door - leatherette finish

AT last years in apartments of high-rise buildings, a second door made of metal is increasingly being installed, in addition to the wooden one. It’s good if there is an opportunity to immediately purchase insulated and, but very often it consists only of sheet metal and frames from a corner or a profile pipe. In this case, the owner of the apartment picks up the tools and independently brings the door into proper shape.

The inner and outer sides of the metal door leaf also have their own characteristics in their sheathing.

The inside of a metal door

If an unsightly metal frame without insulation and decorative materials, this can be easily fixed by installing foam sheets of suitable thickness and covering it all with a decorative panel. To work, you will need materials that are somewhat different from the sheathing of a wooden door.

Styrofoam with a thickness equal to the depth of the frame frame.
Mounting foam will be needed to seal the seams between the installed foam and the metal frame.
Wooden slats for fixing on inner sides frames - they will be needed as a basis for attaching a decorative panel.
Self-tapping screws and drills for metal - they will drill holes in the corners ( profile pipe) for screwing wooden slats to the metal frame.
Decorative nails for fixing leatherette on the plywood surface.
Wood screws for screwing plywood sheet to wooden slats.
A sheet of plywood, in shape and area equal to the door frame, not more than 10 mm thick.
Decorative leatherette and a thin sheet of foam rubber, 10 ÷ 15 mm thick.
Glue or Double-sided tape, to fix the insulation on plywood.

The work on finishing the inner surface of the door is as follows:

Wooden slats are screwed to the inner ribs of the metal frame. It is first necessary to drill through holes through the rails and metal frame elements.

After fixing the rails, gaps may form between them and the metal sheet, which will become cold bridges, so they are closed mounting foam. It will contribute, in addition, to the rigidity of the fastening of the rails.

Further, a foam plastic is installed between the fixed and insulated rails, around which foam is also passed. Such processing will also help to securely fix the foam in the cells and close the last paths of possible cold penetration.

On the plywood sheet, you need to mark the location of the wooden slats in the frame, since they will have to be screwed to them.
If you need to hide the caps of the self-tapping screws under the cladding, then the plywood must be screwed to its sheathing.
First, the sheet is twisted to the middle rails, so that all edges remain free to put leatherette behind them.
Foam rubber is fixed on the installed plywood with glue, or better - with double-sided masking tape.
Leatherette is stretched from above, tucked over the edges of the plywood, and in the corners and along the edges in the middle of the sheet it is screwed through with self-tapping screws, the heads of which are sunk into the plywood. The resulting holes can be carefully sealed with a piece of material, and next to drive a carnation with a decorative hat.
Further, leatherette is stretched and nailed around the entire perimeter with carnations. Since the nails are quite hard to drive into plywood, you need to choose durable, made of high-quality metal that will not bend.
Thus, decorative panel will be well fixed to the frame.
Then, on it it is necessary to outline location lock, cut leatherette and insulation, and then carefully drill holes in plywood.

It must be said that instead of plywood and leatherette, you can use laminated lining to decorate the inner surface of the door. Its installation is carried out from below and gradually rise to the top, and the sides of the lining are closed with a special corner.

The outer side of the metal door

When decorating the outer side of a metal door, for laying under leatherette, you can use not too thick felt, which is glued to a metal surface.

Insulation cut out smaller size door leaf by 7 ÷ 10 mm, and leatherette is larger than this size by 60 ÷ 80 mm. This extra section will go to the edge of the bend on the other side of the sheet.
A polymer adhesive is applied to the surface of the metal sheet in strips.
Next, a heater is applied to it and pressed. It is necessary to give time for the glue to grab and dry.
Leatherette is stretched on top of the insulation, bent over the edges of the metal door panel and glued on the other side. It is best to use a quick-drying universal adhesive for this purpose.

First, the top edge of the material is glued. Further, it is stretched and fixed to the side of the door. When excess material is formed on the inversions, it is best to cut it off, otherwise it may interfere with the free closing of the door leaf.

If the finishing material is very dense, and the fold is too thick at the corners, then it is better to cut off some of the leatherette in these places.

If you do all the work slowly, then the door will turn out neat and respectable.

At the end, door panels are installed and screwed onto the door. accessories - locks with handles and a peephole, if provided for installation.

Video: finishing a metal door with leatherette

"Carriage" trim

"Carriage" sheathing or screed is quite popular, since the door after it looks aesthetically pleasing and respectable. However, not every apartment owner can afford this, since the work on its implementation is quite painstaking and requires skill.

"Carriage" trim looks very impressive

This cladding is done in two different ways- from solid material or from pre-cut pieces of leatherette. Both methods are risky, since in both the first and second versions the material can be damaged, and the door is not sheathed if there is no experience in performing such a “filigree” work.

... however, not everyone can do such a difficult job.

Therefore, for starters, you can practice and sheathe in this way, for example, the surface of a stool. Any fabric can be used for training.

For all the work to be successful, you need to carry out a series of preparatory activities. It is very important not to neglect the careful markup - only in this case you can get geometrically even shapes of squares or rhombuses.

For marking, you need to take a sheet of thin plywood, the same size as the door leaf. It must be drawn into even squares or rectangles.
At the intersection of lines, they are marked and then drilled round holes, so that they form rhombuses or squares with their corners.
Plywood is superimposed on a foam rubber mat and through the holes on it, places are marked where decorative nails will be hammered.

Preliminary marking for "carriage" upholstery

Further, the marked foam rubber is transferred to a wooden base. If it is too thick, then round holes can be cut into it for driving nails.
A stapler is passed around the holes or drawn circles, nailing the insulation to the base and outlining the recesses.
Leatherette is drawn from the wrong side into even squares, which should be 8 ÷ 10 mm larger on each side than the figures drawn on the foam rubber. These extra millimeters are needed to bend the edges of the material when it is nailed.
Then, the material is cut into lined fragments, and you can proceed to fix it on the door leaf.
The pieces are superimposed on the foam rubber according to the markup and nailed. You can first outline them with a stapler, and then nail them with decorative carnations.

Each fragment is stacked and fastened separately - extreme accuracy is needed

It is necessary to ensure that the pieces of leatherette overlap each other in one direction, otherwise the harmony of the pattern will be disturbed.
Without proper experience, the work will seem rather complicated and long, however, if you have patience, you can gradually complete it successfully.

It is much more difficult to derive a carriage pattern from a solid canvas, since it is very difficult to accurately measure and capture the same strips that will serve as a foam rubber screed between the nails.

Prices for various types of door upholstery kits

door upholstery kit

Video: one of the options for the "carriage" door trim leatherette

There are other ways to upholster the door using thin strips of leatherette or fishing line, but in order to achieve the desired success, first, in all cases, careful marking of the door leaf is necessary.

If this work is done independently, then not only will there be experience and skill in its implementation, but also a significant amount will be saved. Therefore, if there is a desire to try yourself in this kind of wallpaper art, then it is worth taking a chance by training to start on small planes.

TOP-12 best entrance door manufacturers

	Name	Rating
Best Budget Entry Doors
#1	Became	⭐ 100 / 100
#2	Neman	⭐ 99 / 100
#3	Outpost	⭐ 98 / 100
#4	Bravo	⭐ 97 / 100
#5	Groff	⭐ 96 / 100
The best elite entrance doors
#1	Torex	⭐ 99 / 100
#2	Elbor	⭐ 98 / 100
#3	Dierre	⭐ 97 / 100
#4	Fortus	⭐ 96 / 100
#5	Legrand	⭐ 95 / 100
#6	Bastion	⭐ 94 / 100
#7	guardian	⭐ 93 / 100

Became

Entrance doors under the Stal brand perfectly combine affordability and excellent quality. The manufacturer managed to achieve balance in different parameters due to complex design which provides high strength. Reinforced doors with armored inserts are made to order. System protection is provided to prevent unauthorized opening. The lineup of Steel is constantly updated. The customer can choose from powder coated, wood, veneer or laminated panel finishes. The catalog has both models classic design and exclusive designs.

wide range of;
value for money.

budget doors are weak.

Outpost

To compete successfully in the domestic market, Russian company Outpost had to start manufacturing doors in China. Since 2009, the products have become in great demand among Russians, and sales volumes have reached 500,000 doors per year. In general, ordinary users are satisfied with the products. They celebrate good quality assembly, rich the lineup, developed service network. Not without doors and some shortcomings. The most unpleasant of them is the appearance on the market of low-quality fakes.

affordable price on prestigious models;
wide service network;
rich range.

counterfeit products appeared;
poor sound insulation in budget models;
Fittings fit only original.

Bravo

Today, the manufacturer boasts model range in 350 units. Here the buyer has a lot to choose from. The catalog contains the most modern views doors, from veneered models to 3D-Graf finishes. Doors also differ structurally, in the range there are sliding, folding and special models. The market is widely represented and door leafs under brands such as Bravo, Bravo Lux, Groff and Belarusian doors. All products are made from environmentally friendly materials, they meet the stringent requirements of international standards.

a wide range of products;
affordable price;
a wide variety of designs and finishes.

thin metal;
bad soundproofing.

Entrance door Bravo

Groff

Groff entrance doors are manufactured domestic manufacturer"Bravo". They are a premium line. For the manufacture of canvases, thick steel is used, fire-resistant Knauf mineral wool as a heater. Structurally, the doors are reinforced with stiffeners, equipped with reliable locks. As a result, the products correspond to the fourth class of burglary resistance. Entrance doors of this series are not only distinguished by strength and durability. They have exceptionally high aesthetic properties. For decoration, the manufacturer used a wide range of decorative panels.

massiveness and good quality;
good heat and sound insulation;
anti-slip pins.

warped after six months of operation;
high price.

Entrance door Groff

Torex

Torex entrance doors are manufactured in accordance with the most advanced developments. Today the company boasts a wide distribution network in the CIS. Production facilities are now fully loaded, and the annual production of doors has reached 10,000 units. The manufacturer does not stop there, new developments appear on the market with enviable constancy. It is possible to ensure maximum strength and reliability of products through the use of two steel sheets. The role of the base is played by a one-piece bent profile 2 mm thick. Designers from Italy often take part in the design of doors.

no models available.

Dierre

Italian door manufacturer Dierre needs no introduction. The products of this company are known in different countries world, as evidenced by the annual sales of 200 thousand products. In Russia, production facilities have been created that provide the domestic market with products with the Dierre trademark. The company independently develops new designs, introducing the latest achievements in the field of locking. So, "smart" entrance doors are equipped with a remote control system, the role of a key is played by a chip with 128-bit encryption. A solid design is considered a chip of Italians. Under the chosen style, unique fittings are also made.

innovative approach;
unique design;
a large assortment.

there is no choice of accessories;
high price.

Fortus

Door blocks Fortus favorably differ from competitors in their design. They resemble the famous Lego toy, allowing the customer to assemble on their own suitable model. The choice is given the type of door (single- or double-leaf, combined), fittings, locking mechanism. The consumer determines the number of locks, the degree of secrecy, the color of the canvas, the shape of the handles, the method of finishing. Thanks to the extensive Fortus catalog total number options reaches four digits. The manufacturer goes to meet its customers, making entrance doors of non-standard sizes in accordance with the proposed project. When creating door blocks, only quality materials, as well as reliable locks from Cisa, Esety, Mul-T-Lock and Mottura.

quality assembly;
you can realize any idea;
smooth move.

there is no choice of accessories.

Legrand

Original quality finish entrance doors Legrand was to the taste of domestic consumers. As finishing material the manufacturer used MDF panels, which are processed on modern CNC machines. To increase the service life, a polymer coating is used that protects the canvas from atmospheric influences. A wide range of colors adds variety to the range. Some collections are getting off natural wood, which gives the doors an aristocratic and exclusivity. Buyers are provided wide selection, starting with the basic equipment and ending with a modified configuration. For easy running door hinges equipped with bearings.

original finish;
a diverse range of models;
hinges on bearings.

unreliable protection against corrosion;
bad soundproofing.

Bastion

One of the flagships in the production of entrance doors is the Bastion brand. Products are made according to standard scheme, first a frame is formed from metal profile square section. Then welded to it steel sheets. The void is being filled basalt wool, which, in addition to good insulating properties, has fire resistance. When choosing a model, the buyer is given the opportunity to independently determine the type of anti-burglary system and anti-removable loops. The finish can also be changed according to the client's requests. Glass or wooden elements, as well as forged inserts.