Unusual wooden bed for a rustic bedroom
At first glance, making a piece of furniture yourself is very simple. Only when a person begins to do this, it turns out that it is not so simple. It is necessary to find a working material that is suitable in texture and color, process it correctly, manufacture and correctly assemble all the elements.
Unusual interior design wooden house forester
By assembling furniture with his own hands, a person wants to give his home more individuality and unusualness. But there are other benefits as well.
Wood furniture for a country-style kitchen
- Environmental friendliness. Wooden elements fit perfectly into a children's room or bedroom, in all rooms where materials should be as safe as possible, natural, free of harmful substances. Only resins and essential oils. But they affect the human body more positively than negatively.
- Sustainability. Any wooden furniture serves at least 45-50 years. It is resistant to mechanical stress.
- Ease of repair. Despite the complexity of manufacturing, the repair of furniture elements is quite simple, requiring a minimum amount of effort, skill and tools.
- Ergonomics.
- The maximum degree of comfort. When creating wooden furniture with your own hands, you can immediately take into account all the features of the physique of the future owner.
- "Flight of fantasy". Anyone, even the most daring design idea, will look great on a wooden background. Hand finishing will give the furniture even more chic.
- Price. Furniture made from solid wood industrial production, is quite expensive. If you make it yourself, then the price decreases significantly.
A beautiful decoration of your interior - a solid beech armchair
In addition to all the above advantages of furniture elements, one more thing should be noted - accessibility. It is not necessary to buy them in luxurious, designer salons. It is enough to study the basic principles of its production and get down to business, working with your own hands, you can create a completely unique piece of furniture.
Large Garden swing from wood for giving with their own hands
The main styles that have wooden furniture in their arsenal
Wooden kitchen furniture for a dining room or a cozy cafe
Many talented designers work with solid wood furniture. It is a mistake to assume that it can decorate only rooms decorated in a classic style. There are areas in which you can successfully fit wooden furniture:
- Country. Its distinguishing features are angularity, roughness in lines, and the absence of artificial surface treatments. Wood is an ideal working material for furniture that decorates a country-style room. These can be cottages, private houses, inside which you can easily create an atmosphere of primitiveness.
Spacious and bright rustic living room in country style
- Eco style. For admirers of this trend, it is not fashion trends that are important, but naturalness and naturalness. They are close to the country style, the only difference is the shades, in the first version bright and dark tones, in the second preference is given to light, natural. Eco-style rooms suggest the presence of a large number of modern appliances, while wooden furniture will make the interior softer and more sophisticated.
Wooden table with carved legs for interior decoration in eco-style
- Provence. This direction is well known in the world of women's interior design. Its distinguishing features: a large number of flowers, silver, cute dishes. This is a "warm, cozy" style. You don’t want to leave such a kitchen and living room, so a wicker chair or a wooden table will fit perfectly into it. But the main thing here is not to overdo it, massive elements will attract too much attention and be perceived separately from all other thematic elements.
Interior in a romantic Provence style with wooden furniture
In other styles, you can also see wooden furniture, but in smaller quantities. For example, in the areas of minimalism and modernity, additional wooden accessories are very relevant: lamps, watches, figurines, vases.
Minimalist wooden interior design
General principles for creating wooden furniture
Beautiful and functional wooden kitchen
Before you start working with your own hands, you need to develop a project, on the Internet you can find a photo of the desired element.
Ready processed wooden facades for kitchen furniture
The next step is the selection of wood. It must be 100% tested and of high quality. This is what determines the lifespan of the item. It must be remembered that the working material is divided into soft and hard. The faster a tree grows, the softer its wood is considered.
Do-it-yourself wooden outdoor furniture
Oak is considered the most valuable and expensive. It is valued because of the ability to successfully dye in any color.
A set of furniture for a dining room in a house or cottage, made of wood with your own hands
Mahogany is considered to be of the same value. Its advantages are high strength, moisture resistance. It is from this wood that the most chic and luxurious wooden furniture is obtained.
Do-it-yourself mahogany outdoor furniture for the site
Pine, spruce, cedar, maple, cherry, walnut are considered less expensive and affordable for the middle class of the population.
Great solid and durable dinner table wooden
After choosing wood, you need to purchase shields. It is better if they are monolithic.
Main stages of work
- Development of a drawing of a future product.
We develop a drawing garden chair wooden cottage
- Preparing a tree for sawing, drawing markings on it, sawing.
Marking and preparation for cutting
The process of drilling holes in the manufacture of furniture with your own hands
- Product coloring.
The process of painting a finished wood product
- Assembly of elements.
Assembling handmade wooden furniture
Necessary tool for work
- Screwdriver.
- Jigsaw.
- Plane.
- Furniture stapler.
- A hammer.
- Screwdriver.
- Furniture knife.
- Paint, varnish, brush.
- Necessary accessories.
Furniture making tool
In addition to all of the above, you will need hardware, additional expendable materials. If the master is experienced, he can use more complex working tools.
Finishing the finished product
Processing of the finished product by the method of chemical aging of furniture
When the manufacture and assembly of a furniture product is completed, it is necessary to give it a finished look. You can simply paint the element, apply decorative decorations on it with your own hands.
Basic processing options
- Toning.
- Painting.
- Lacquering.
- Resin removal.
To make high-quality tinting of furniture means to give it the most natural and beautiful shade. They can be very diverse, but naturalness will always be viewed first.
Varnishing a furniture element is the creation of a glossy sheen. Additionally, this layer protects it, increases wear resistance.
Do-it-yourself wood finishing with varnish
In the process of processing furniture elements, it is necessary to remove resin residues from all working surfaces. This is done with alcohol, gasoline, acetone.
The simplest and most popular method of finishing wooden furniture with your own hands is to cover it with a standard varnish. He does not require high costs and complex finishing tools. The undoubted advantage is the preservation of the original appearance and texture of the working material.
If the tree belongs to hard rock, then it can be covered with colored paint. With this method, inexpensive wood can be painted to look like an expensive variety.
Painting methods
- Solid.
- Toning.
- Applying a layer of coloring element under the varnish.
It is necessary to apply paint very carefully and carefully, observing certain stages of work.
- Cleaning of all irregularities, knots.
- Resin removal.
- Removal of cracks and chips.
- Primer.
- Coloring.
After the paint dries, it can be applied decorative pattern. This can be done with a brush, airbrush.
In most cases, there should be several layers of paint and varnish. After each of them dries, it is necessary to grind, sandpaper is used for this.
Particular attention should be paid to carved elements, they are more difficult to process.
Wooden furniture is "able" to fit into any interior, the main thing is to do it correctly. Individuals with a well-developed sense of style and imagination can create a whole small world in their home, unlike others, unique, with its own atmosphere and mood.
An excellent option for using wooden furniture in the interior of the kitchen-dining room
Video: how to make a wooden dining table with your own hands in a garage workshop
If you have long dreamed of learning how to work with wood, do not waste time. Get started today. After all, simple furniture and do-it-yourself wood crafts (see drawings and photos) can be made without carpentry skills. There would be a desire.
Woodworking Tools
For the manufacture of most products, it is not necessary to purchase special equipment. In most cases, you can get by with a standard set of tools.
As a rule, for woodworking at home, you do not need to buy special equipment
So, we will need:
To connect the parts, you will need wood screws. To obtain a stronger connection, you will need screws or bolts with nuts. It's great if there is a circular saw in the garage.
In principle, for cutting a small number of parts, a bow saw is enough. If you wish, you can contact any carpentry workshop and order blanks of the required size there.
In the absence of a screwdriver, prepare small holes with a diameter half that of the screws themselves. Screwing them in by hand will be much easier.
In the future, if working with wood fascinates you, for the manufacture of complex parts and round blanks can be purchased cheap lathe- it will cost 7-12 thousand rubles. If the house has an old electric motor, for example, from a washing machine, it will not be difficult to make such a machine yourself.
Do not work with a tree that has just been brought in from the cold. It should lie down for a day.
Furniture
It is problematic to make complex types of furniture at home. But here is an ordinary stool, a bench, a shelf, a bed and even a wardrobe made of wood, using photos and drawings, even a novice carpenter is quite capable of making.
Stool
This type of furniture is always useful in the workshop, garage, kitchen or cottage. The stool can be stationary, folding, have different leg lengths, seat shapes, etc.
The design of the stool can be complicated by making its upper part in the form of a box for storing small items. In the house, a folding stool-stepladder will definitely come in handy. By lengthening the legs of a regular stool, you get a bar stool.
We will begin work with the manufacture of the simplest product.
For its manufacture we need:
- bars for legs, tsargs (bars under the seat) and prolegs with a section of 35-50 mm
- several boards for making seats or plywood; its standard size is 350-430mm
- self-tapping screws
- metal corners (crackers) to strengthen the structure, we will mount them under the seat
We describe the main stages of work:
1 Look at the photo above. Assembling the stool is easy. The four legs of the stool are first connected with the help of prolegs and tsargs (bars located directly under the seat). Then the seat itself is attached.
2 The standard length of the legs is 45-50 cm. For their manufacture, you can buy a bar or saw a 200 mm board. This size is most convenient - it will make 4 bars of 50 mm each.
3 We prepare some boards for sitting.
4 To make the structure stable, they are cut strictly at 90 degrees.
5 When cutting drawstrings and prolegs, be sure to consider the length of the spikes.
6 We process each detail first with sandpaper No. 40-60, and then go through them twice with finer sandpaper.
7 The fastening of the tsarg and prolegs on self-tapping screws will be unreliable - the product will loosen. For connection use rectangular spikes and grooves. To do this, mark their location. The width of the spike is 1/3 of the thickness of the tsarg or proleg. Length - 80% of the thickness.
8 We start the work with the preparation of the grooves - it will be easier to fit the spikes. To get a groove in the leg, it is first better to drill several holes in a row with a drill. The rest of the tree is selected manually with a chisel.
9 In the absence milling machine spikes are made using a rasp and a jigsaw.
10 We connect the legs of the stool in pairs (two each) with the drawers and prolegs. If everything is correct, we drip glue into the grooves and insert blanks with spikes into them.
11 To glue the seat boards together, coat them on the sides and tighten the seat with a clamp.
12 After the glue dries, we additionally strengthen the legs with the sides using metal corners.
13 We fasten the seat with screws to the legs and sides. The stool is ready.
Carpenter's glue dries for at least a day. When working in a cold garage, this time increases.
Bench
Making a bench or bench out of wood is even easier. This design is in many ways reminiscent of a stool. The only new detail is the back. To mount it, a pair of bench legs will need to be lengthened.
1 The biggest difficulty is the manufacture of the rear legs. Their upper part is made with a slight slope for the convenience of attaching the back. But since there are only two such parts, they can be cut without the use of special equipment using a conventional bow saw.
2 If there is no desire to mess around with cutting complex workpieces, the rear legs can be made inclined. Just remember that to ensure stability, the bottom of the legs must be cut at the same angle.
3 For greater stability, it is better to place the prongs not in the center, but at the bottom.
4 To strengthen the structure, as shown in the photo, they can be interconnected by a transverse bar.
Chair
Since the manufacture regular chair with a back, in principle, differs little from assembling a stool and a bench, and you can already handle it yourself, complicate the task and make a folding chair made of wood.
1 It will not take up much space in the car, and you can always take it with you on a picnic or fishing trip.
2 In order not to be mistaken in the calculations, make a sample of a smaller scale from cardboard. Measure each of the details. If the design turned out to be stable, you can begin to manufacture the product.
3 Cooking first 2 wooden frame. In the upper part of one of them we fasten a pair of rails that will serve as a back. At the bottom of the frame, we fix the prong on the screws or with a tongue-and-groove connection (we described it a little higher).
4 We make the second frame a little shorter. We also attach a proleg to the bottom. In the upper part we attach 3-4 seat rails.
5 Since the legs of the chair will be inclined, their cutting angle will not be 90, as usual, but 45 degrees.
6 To obtain a strong connection, the seat and back are also fastened not with self-tapping screws, but with a tenon-groove connection.
7 You can replace the back and seat with a strong canvas stretched over the frame.
8 So that our chair does not move apart when unfolded, we install four restrictive paired bars under the seat. They won't let him fully develop.
9 If the back and seat are covered with canvas, a narrow strip of fabric is pulled between the lower jumpers. It will serve as a limiter and will not allow the chair to develop.
10 With a hacksaw, we cut the axle bolts along the length. We fix them on the legs of the chair closer to the seat. If you install them in the center of the legs, the design will be less stable. Screw cap nuts onto the ends.
11 In order for the frame to close tightly, the nuts must be slightly sunk into the wood.
12 You can replace wood with plywood. Cutting even curved parts out of it with an electric jigsaw will not be difficult. Straight cuts are made with a regular hacksaw. The design of such a chair will be slightly different. To assemble it, grooves are cut in plywood.
The simplest wooden shelf
Let's start making another product - wooden shelves. In the future, on their basis, you will be able to produce more complex products.
1 After sawing the boards, their ends are sanded first with large and then fine sandpaper.
2 It is necessary to grind and stain the product before the end of the assembly. After all, even small joints are always clearly visible.
3 It is better to paint over a perfectly sanded wood with a stain - on a dark surface, any scratches and chips will be evident.
4 There is a stain of different shades on sale: dark or light oak, walnut, cherry, hazelnut, etc. Learn that after drying it brightens a little. When applying new layers, the wood becomes darker. More than two layers should not be applied, otherwise the surface will become spotty.
5 Due to the orientation of the fibers, the ends always look darker after staining. To reduce absorption, it is better to prime them first.
6 Its drying time is about 12 hours. Then the product is varnished on top.
7 After the blanks are completely dry, on the sides of the future shelf we make markings for attaching horizontally located planks.
8 In the absence of a screwdriver, we drill small holes for fasteners. Their diameter should be half the diameter of the screws.
9 Initially, it is not worth screwing them in too tightly. We do this only after checking the correctness of the assembly.
10 We close the fastening points of the screws with plugs to match the color of our tree. They can be purchased at any furniture store.
11 By the same principle, you can make a shoebox out of wood (photos and drawings can be found on the net). Its back wall is covered with plywood, screwed to the ends of the shelf with self-tapping screws.
12 If it is necessary to make jumpers in the product, they are fastened to horizontal shelves using round wooden spikes (dowels) inserted into pre-prepared holes, or self-tapping screws. To fix the board, 1-2 spikes are enough, which are pre-coated with glue.
13 To hang a small shelf weighing 3-5 kg, purchase mounting loops and dowel-screws 6x30. Heavy structures are fixed with metal anchors in the shape of the letter "G".
14 Learn how to screw shelves to plasterboard wall it won't work in the usual way. They are fixed only through the embedded bars, which are sewn into the wall in advance.
Do not overdo it with glue - it is applied in a thin layer in drops or a thin stream. When it dries a little, remove the excess. It is more convenient to do this with a clean paint scraper.
Table
garden table
Having built a table from wood, you can install it in the kitchen, in the bathhouse or in the garden house.
1 The length of the tabletop depends on the quantity seats. 50-60 cm is enough for one person.
2 Standard table height - 165 cm.
3 First, an underframe is made - a frame consisting of legs and drawers - connecting elements for fastening the tabletop and legs.
4 According to the standards, only spike connections. However, even furniture factories last years use less durable connections in the form of dowels (plug-in cylindrical rods, popularly called chopiks) and self-tapping screws. If you don’t want to mess around with cutting out the spikes, be sure to reinforce the corners of the underframe with “crackers” - metal or wooden fasteners.
5 But still, studs with semi-darkness are a more durable connection for the legs and the side, when part of the stud in the upper part is cut out halfway. They must be glued on.
6 The tabletop is assembled from boards, paying attention to the direction of the fibers, so that when the wood dries, there are no problems with skew. Pay attention to the texture of the boards. At successful combination wood pattern, the product will turn out to be more original, and the joints will be less conspicuous.
7 The boards of the tabletop are interconnected with dowels and dowels (wooden chopsticks). To do this, 8-12 mm holes are prepared at the ends. It is necessary to drop a little glue into them, carefully distribute it with a wooden torch and insert a dowel inside. The finished tabletop is tightly pulled together and left to dry completely.
Design garden table may be somewhat different. To strengthen its legs, it is pulled together with transverse bars, as shown in the diagram below.
It will be a big disappointment if, during assembly, the prepared parts do not fit perfectly with each other. Always check any connection at once.
Hallway
Cabinet furniture is more difficult to manufacture. Let's start learning how to assemble it from wood from the hallway. You can make it from furniture panels left over from old furniture, grooved boards, chipboard or plywood.
Hallway furniture option
It is necessary to stock up on accessories. Depending on the design, we may need door hinges, screeds, metal rods for hanging hangers, etc.
1 The design of the hallway can be any. Below we have provided only one of the possible drawings. If desired, a variety of its configurations can be found on the network.
2 The simplest screed used to assemble the case are metal corners and self-tapping screws. On each side you will need 3-4 fasteners.
3 More expensive, but also the most durable fasteners are special furniture ties, for example, extratrical. It is completely recessed into the tree and does not cling to stored things.
4 When cutting out the body parts, do not forget to file the corners for the skirting boards at the bottom.
5 The back wall of plywood, adjacent to the wall, is fixed with an overlay or a quarter with ordinary screws. The latter method gives a stronger connection.
6 Shelf supports are used to install shelves. The simplest of these is a metal or plastic pin.
7 Hang the doors on any kind of hinges. First, mark up with a pencil through the holes. To prevent the door from loosening quickly, retreat at least 10 cm from the top and bottom. For heavy doors, it is better to use not 2, but 3-4 loops.
8 To prevent pencil graphite from being erased, after checking the correct connection, mark the places of future holes with a nail or awl.
9 Be sure to check that the hinges do not fall on the level of the shelves - they will not allow the door to close completely.
10 After hanging the sash, it needs to be adjusted.
Bed
Drawings of a wooden bed for assembly are not so difficult. We will describe only its principles.
1 In order not to be mistaken with the size of the sleeping bed, before you start assembling the bed, purchase a mattress.
2 Do not make the frame back to back. After all, the mattress over time slightly "spreads" on the sides. Therefore, add 1 cm to the frame on each side.
3 For the manufacture of the case you will need old furniture boards or planed boards. Use a stronger wood conifers.
4 First, the frame is assembled using metal corners or special furniture ties and self-tapping screws.
5 To lay the mattress, it is necessary to install several jumpers made of durable boards across the frame. After assembling the frame, plywood 12 mm thick is laid on them.
6 Another option for fastening the mattress is wooden lining at the bottom of the frame, on which cross slats are laid.
7 If desired, a U-shaped storage box with a hinged top cover can be made at the head of the headboard.
There are many options for making a bed.
Crafts for giving
Purchase for suburban area expensive products do not always make sense. It is much easier to assemble a table, chairs, benches and benches from old furniture or planed boards left after construction. From them you can also build a swing, a gazebo, and from waste wooden material - a birdhouse.
birdhouse
It turns out that a single bird is capable of destroying a thousand harmful insect larvae in a season. Therefore, a birdhouse in the country, made by hand, will be most welcome here.
1 Its width is always standard - 10-12 cm. The height is selected depending on the type of birds that you want to attract to your site. So, for starlings, a house 60 cm high is required, but for tits, flycatchers, redstarts, it should be low - up to 26 cm.
2 Woodpeckers will need a dwelling in the form of a triangle. A birdhouse for wagtails is always laid on its side and a trapik is attached to it. The flycatcher needs a birdhouse with a notch in the form of a gap, and the robins need a house with a slightly open front wall.
3 For the manufacture of a house for birds, only tes is used. After all, the inner sides of their dwellings and the facade should be rough. On a smooth surface, it will be difficult for the chicks to get out. For the same reason, the house is never painted or varnished. If there is no tesa at hand, you can use a planed board, on which notches are manually applied.
4 Never use a coniferous tree to create a home for birds. Wings smeared in resin, for birds - certain death.
5 Draft is dangerous for chicks, so saw the boards at 90 degrees so that no gaps form when they are connected. The birdhouse is never glued, but only knocked down with nails or twisted with self-tapping screws. After all, the glue will scare away sensitive birds. For the same reason, you should not take chipboard or plywood for building a house.
6 To make the bird house easy to clean, provide a removable cover. It is better to stuff a blank on it equal to the internal dimensions of the birdhouse. Such a dense cover will never be torn off by the wind.
7 You can also hang the lid on ordinary hinges. In this case, be sure to provide a hook or latch.
8 4 cm perch attached with glue. Its diameter is 1 cm.
9 A long pole is nailed to the back of the birdhouse.
10 Lay moss, tow or sawdust on the bottom. To protect against drafts and bad weather, carefully coat all the cracks.
11 A birdhouse is fixed at a height of 3 m with an entrance to the east or southeast. For starlings, an even greater height is required, up to 8 m. To prevent raindrops from falling inside, it is better to tilt it slightly forward. To prevent cats from reaching the dwelling, when hanging it on a tree, remove large neighboring branches.
The birdhouse is always placed in the shade - in the summer, in the open sun, the chicks will be uncomfortable.
Never make a birdhouse larger than the standard size. This will encourage the birds to lay more eggs than they can feed. As a result, some of the chicks will simply die.
Swing
Plastic Chinese swings are not very durable, they are enough for one or two seasons. It makes no sense to spend extra money on expensive products if there is lumber on hand left after repair or construction. sound wooden swing made of wood will please both children and adults.
For racks and crossbar swings, use durable wooden bars with a cross section of 100 mm or more.
We will also need:
- board for the manufacture of a seat with a thickness of 3 cm
- metal chains or thick rope
- several carabiners for hanging it; you can replace them with bolts and studs
- sand and cement for pouring pillars into the ground
- metal corners and screws
On the concrete surface you should not install a swing - after all, if you fall, the probability of injury will be very high. Choose a place for them on a lawn or soft sand.
Make sure that there are no protruding rebars, large stones and tree branches nearby.
1 The height of the children's swing is from 2 m. If adults also use them, increase it to 3.5 m or a little higher.
2 The swing support can be U- or A-shaped. In the latter case, the pillars can not be buried in the ground.
3 When connecting the bars at an angle in the form of the letter "A", provide a crossbar between them. It is pulled together with metal corners and screws. For fasteners, cuts are made in the timber, into which the studs are installed.
4 Do not overtighten the fasteners. Adjust the base first building level, and only then screw in the screws to the end.
5 According to GOST, the frame should be half a meter wider than the seat. Its size is chosen at its own discretion. The seat can be made with or without a back. With a length of 50 cm or more, adults can also use the swing.
6 After cutting the parts, be sure to sand the planed boards.
7 When installing supports for a U-shaped swing, treat the bottom of the pillars with bitumen and wrap with roofing material. This way you protect the tree from premature decay. Cover the remaining wooden parts of the swing with an antiseptic, drying oil, varnish or paint.
8 The supports are buried in the ground by 1 m and must be poured cement-sand mortar. To protect against underground moisture and frost heaving, cover the bottom of the pit with crushed stone by 20-30 cm. It is necessary to hang the swing only after the cement has gained strength - not earlier than in a week.
Gazebo with 4-pitched roof
Planting and basic watering have come to an end? It's time to start arranging a gazebo made of wood with a hipped roof on the site.
1 It is better to choose a place to rest in the shade of trees, among greenery or surrounded by ornamental shrubs. They will be able to protect the gazebo from the piercing wind. It is great if there is a reservoir next to it. Do not just place the building in the lowland - wastewater will heat it up.
2 After clearing the site and leveling it, mark the location of the gazebo with twine and pegs. It should be 1.5 m larger than the size of the structure itself.
3 A light structure will not require a powerful foundation. It is enough to erect columnar supports made of concrete or brick.
4 For a 3x3 m gazebo, you will need 9 concrete or brick supports. They are buried in the ground by 30-40 cm. When using bricks, they are laid on a mortar in 5-6 rows so that the last row rises above the ground.
5 When concreting or laying bricks, metal 10 mm rods 40 cm long are laid in the corner supports so that half of their length (20 cm) is recessed into the support.
6 Now we are preparing the base of the gazebo from the bars. Their optimal section is 100x100 mm. The bars are interconnected with a half-tree fastening. To reinforce such a square or quadrangular base, provide 1-2 transverse beams in it.
7 At the corners in both bars, drill holes for the bars (as you remember, we have already laid the metal rods in the extreme supports). Make the same holes at the bottom. support pillars.
8 At the top of the supports, immediately prepare rectangular cuts for attaching the roof rafters.
9 After installing the posts and leveling them with a building level, reinforce them with struts located at an angle of 45 degrees.
10 On 4 sides of the assembled frame, we install horizontally running bars - strapping. The harness, located in its lower third, at a height of about 1 m from the ground, will serve as the railing of the gazebo.
11 To equip the roof, you will need a horizontal cross. To do this, select rectangular recesses in the center of the bars for the “half-tree” bundle. To strengthen this fastening, screw wooden blocks in each of the cross corners of the cross.
12 At the top of the support posts, we have already prepared cuts. Now prepare cutouts at the ends of the cross so that their dimensions match the cuts of the supports.
13 Attach the assembled cross to 4 posts.
14 To create the rafters, we need a wooden octahedron, fixed in the center, which will rest on the cross. Its length is 80 cm.
15 In the upper part of the octahedron, we prepare a rectangular cut, to which the first pair of rafters will be attached. This fastening is reinforced with self-tapping screws. The second pair of rafters will be attached overlay on top of the first pair. When trimming the rafters, be sure to leave a small 30 cm overhang above the roof.
16 Four more rafters with their lower ends will lie on the supporting pillars. They are screwed to the octahedron with self-tapping screws.
17 To prevent the roof from being squeezed by snow, you can install a few more support pillars that will rest on the rafter beam and strapping.
Beautiful wooden gate, handmade with carvings
We will need:
- support posts made of 10x10 mm timber or logs
- wooden beam for frame 3x4 or 4x4 mm
- picket fence, plywood or board (if you will make the gate leaf solid) for sheathing
- galvanized screws and ties
- loops for hanging the gate
- metal or wooden handle
- latch or overhead lock if you plan to close the gate with a key
Time to get to work:
1 Choose the height of the gate at your own discretion. It can go flush with the fence, be lower or higher than it.
2 The principle of its manufacture is simple. First, a frame is made, then a crate is stuffed onto it.
3 The simplest frame for attaching a picket fence is in the form of the letter z or x. The frame has the shape of a rectangle with a board-crossbar (strut) and boards stuffed horizontally or diagonally on it.
4 Old rotten supports are dismantled. If they are strong enough, you can hang a gate on them.
5 Concreting will increase the service life of supports by 2-3 times. For them, pits 0.5-1 m deep are prepared, at the bottom of which crushed stone is poured. It will be able to protect the structure from frost heaving and excess moisture. On loamy soils, the pillars are buried by 1 m; on sandy soil, 0.5 m is enough.
6 It is possible to strengthen the concrete structure by laying reinforcement or rubble stones.
7 The lower part of the supports is fired at the stake or impregnated with bitumen. Then it is wrapped with roofing material.
8 The standard distance between the posts is 1-1.2 m.
9 After installing the supports in the pit, they are leveled with a building level. Cement mortar is poured between them and the soil. Don't forget to pierce it with a shovel to remove voids.
10 You can continue to work only after a week - the cement should be well strengthened.
11 The gate begins to be made only after the installation of the supports - it is necessary to accurately measure the distance between them. The width of its frame is 1 cm less than the distance between the posts. It is collected on a flat area. This will avoid distortion.
12 The frame skin is fixed on self-tapping screws. It can be very different: solid, have windows or be sparse, arranged in the form of a Christmas tree or a semicircle. The design with carved slats looks very decorative.
If you like DIY crafts for you 25 interesting projects furniture from improvised materials. You can do amazing beautiful furniture for your home from old window frames, doors, stumps and other materials.
1. simple shelf for shoes in the hallway is made of three boxes fixed on two boards.
2. The head of this bed is made from an old door.
3. Unexpected option coffee table from an old stump.
5. Vintage coffee table from an old suitcase.
6. Update the lampshade of the floor lamp with the remnants of the wallpaper.
7. Interesting room shelves made from old leather straps and a couple of planks.
8. The kitchen console table uses old frames.
9. Desk from an old suitcase.
10. Bedside table from a wooden box.
11. A bright garden table made from a door. Easy trash can makeover.
12. A table made of wooden beams for real fans of natural materials in the interior.
13. Upgrade the stool into a small staircase.
14. Wooden cable spool as a kitchen table.
15. Golden coffee table from a stump.
16. Interesting finish of the drawers of the table with end trimmings of the board.
17. Drawers from an old table can serve as shelves.
18. Old window frames will help in creating a coffee table with a showcase drawer.
19. A charming hanging cabinet from an old window.
In order to save money and time on searching desired model users with building or carpentry skills can make furniture by themselves.
What should be taken care of before making furniture?
When assembling furniture with your own hands, you need to think in advance about the appearance of the object and decide in which part of the apartment it will be placed. These data will help determine the most suitable materials and accessories. Drawings are another important part of the process. After creating sketches with parameters and purchasing tools and building materials, you can proceed to direct installation. It is better to strictly adhere to the original idea and be attentive to all calculations, otherwise hand-made furniture may turn out to be sloppy.
The most important thing in the manufacture of furniture is a drawing.
Step 1 - Furniture Assembly Tools
For work, you will not need a special room and expensive equipment, but before assembling furniture with your own hands, you still need to stock up on tools that may come in handy during work. Recommended minimum for beginners:
- electric screwdriver;
- drill for loops with a diameter of 2.6 cm;
- nozzle or key, as well as a special drill for confirmations;
- drills with diameters of 4.5, 7.5 and 10 mm;
- awl, tape measure, ruler, pencil;
- rubber or wooden mallet;
- sandpaper (fine-grained).
For those who have extensive experience in the manufacture of furniture with their own hands, it would be useful to purchase electric drill, electric jigsaw, building hair dryer and an iron, a professional milling cutter, a clerical knife, a joint knife and a Forstner drill with a diameter of 15 mm for drilling holes for minifixes.
Step 2 - selection of materials for future furniture design
Today the market offers the widest range, which includes various price categories. natural wooden arrays are now considered an expensive elite material, they have given way to modern stoves consisting of wood only in part. There are several most requested options for .
Furniture from laminated chipboard
Laminated chipboard boards have taken a leading position as the main material for the manufacture of do-it-yourself cabinet furniture. They are a relatively cheap composite material resulting from the hot pressing of wood shavings. The standard thickness of such plates is 16 mm, but you can find 1 and 22 mm. From thicker plates, decorative elements and the main details of cabinets and bookshelves where needed high rate bending strength.
Chipboard processing is usually carried out on special machines. You can resort to a jigsaw and try to cut them at home, yourself, but this will not work out smoothly: bumps and chips will be visible on the details. Such defects will subsequently be very noticeable, and they will have to be masked. For this reason, it is better to entrust the manufacture of parts to professionals.
Fiberboard furniture
Fibreboard - less quality and aesthetically pleasing attractive material compared to LDSP. AT furniture production it is used for decoration back walls and as the bottom of drawers. The thickness of these sheets varies between 3-5 mm. The plate has two surfaces: smooth and rough. One of the rules for making furniture with your own hands: the smooth side of the sheet looks inside the drawer / cabinet. The color should be as close as possible to the shade of the main furniture material (chipboard).
It is not recommended to fix fiberboard sheets on furniture stapler, since such a structure will turn out to be unstable and loosen over time. The bottom of furniture drawers can be mounted in a groove prepared by a cutter, if all dimensions match up to a millimeter. The most popular fastening method is self-tapping screws or nails.
MDF furniture
A plate consisting of finely dispersed chips pressed under high pressure and temperature. A malleable material, it is well processed by a router, it is often used as a furniture facade (external part). Basic Features:
- high density;
- good moisture resistance;
- flexibility;
- ability to withstand temperature extremes;
- resistance to microbial attack.
The thickness of MDF boards varies from 3 to 38 mm.
Assembling furniture from natural wood- not the most practical idea, since the wood mass is several times more expensive than the above price categories. It is better to entrust the work with this material to specialists.
furniture fittings
Accessories are small, but important elements, without which the furniture will not be able to perform its functions. You should not save on this part, since the service life and general level the performance of the future design, assembled with your own hands.
Furniture handles are attached with screws. Guides (roller and telescopic, or ball) play an important role in the assembly of drawers, because they ask them right direction movement.
To soften the impact when closing and reduce the noise level, silicone dampers are installed on the inner sides of the furniture doors (or end face). Legs are an optional detail, but in some cases can greatly extend the life of the furniture and adjust its optimal position on an uneven floor.
The hinges affect the opening degree of the drawer doors. The standard is 180° for opening and 90° for closing. If the manufacturer has not made additives (cutouts for hinges), then they can be added in any furniture shop. For glass doors, you need to purchase special hinges that can hold it without drilling holes.
Fasteners for furniture
Fasteners and their types require special attention. it hardware, which ultimately are of decisive importance for furniture, since it is they that ensure its strength, geometric correctness and stability.
Dowels made of wood
Are applied to preliminary and intermediate fixing and strengthening of loading "on a cut". Dowels are inserted into drilled holes in both fastened pieces of furniture. Later, the parts are attached in a more reliable method.
iron corners
A slightly outdated mounting system that fully justifies its cheapness with an unattractive appearance, bulkiness and loosening after some time.
Confirmat, or furniture screw
A modern fastener that has replaced ordinary self-tapping screws due to large threads: because of this, the screws hold tighter in the chipboard. The main disadvantages of this type is the need to use a special drill with different diameters for threading, caps and necks of Euroscrews, as well as caps that remain visible. The master will have to select plastic plugs to match the color of the furniture body.
One of the most relevant methods of fastening today. The main advantage of eccentric couplers is that they leave drilling marks only on the inside of the product. For this mount, you will need the aforementioned Forstner drill. The method is time consuming and is great for sliding furniture doors. In other cases, it is worth stopping at simpler and less expensive options.
Selection of edges and furniture fronts
These elements perform an aesthetic function, so you need to choose them wisely. It is not difficult to make beautiful cabinet furniture that will look expensive if you carefully select decorative parts.
Edge
The security of the saw cuts of the body plates, and, consequently, the strength of the furniture, depends on the correct choice of this part. If you do not take care of high-quality insulation, moisture can easily penetrate into the furniture structure and destroy them from the inside.
There are several options, one of the best for making furniture with your own hands is a PVC edge. This finish does not require special skills or professional equipment. Standard sizes: 0.4 and 2 mm. In order to save money, a thin edge is glued to the ends that are inaccessible to the eyes, and 2 mm to the outer ones, which will be subjected to heavy loads and friction.
Other advantages of this type of furniture finishing:
- Melamine edging: A cheap but impractical option. Glued with a regular iron.
- ABS - similar to PVC, but made from an environmentally friendly material.
- The laid on P-profile is glued to liquid nails. Impractical due to the accumulation of dirt at the junction, but helps to hide the defects of a bad cut.
- Mortise T-profile - rarely used, inserted into the groove made by the cutter.
Front part of furniture
Kitchen facades and drawer doors are the “face” of furniture, so they should look much more presentable than other details that are not so conspicuous. To make this element with your own hands means to save time, since usually such things are made to order, and the wait can take several months.
Concerning technical subtleties, the façade part is standardly made 2 mm smaller on each side of the main body. So, for furniture with a width of 600 mm, a facade with a width of 596 mm is suitable. The raw material of the decorative part is different from that of the main body.
Among the cheapest facades are laminated MDF panels with a short service life. Mostly found finish "under the tree." Softforming, which is gaining popularity, is similar to MDF, but differs in two-color layout and relief on both sides of the panel. Such furniture is suitable only for dry rooms (bedroom, living room). You can often see non-standard facades with curly stained glass cutouts. It is customary to fix glass on an overlay with inside doors.
This is a high-quality, durable decoration. Differs in the severity of forms, performed without aesthetic excesses. MDF or chipboard plates are taken as the basis, which are covered with thin seamless plastic. A plastic facade is another expensive, but extremely practical option.
Characteristics:
- smooth surface (glossy, matte);
- concise design;
- ABS edging or aluminum profile.
At the peak of popularity are now super glossy acrylic panels for making furniture with your own hands.
wood and veneer
Expensive, but natural materials. There is an opinion that from an environmental point of view, the option loses, since it contains a lot of varnish and impregnations. The painted facade “under the enamel” is becoming less and less common. The saturated color, which was so appreciated before, also appeared in competitors, for example, in acrylic. A significant disadvantage of such furniture is that it is unstable to deformation and scratches.
Aluminum-glass facades
The best method when making furniture with your own hands in high-tech style.
Preparation of drawings for the manufacture of furniture
Assembly drawings are a personal guide during the workflow. If you pay due attention to this part at the preparatory stage, then the master will not have to frantically make calculations and be afraid to attach something in the wrong place. You can make the task of assembling easier by sketching everything on plain sheet paper by hand or using .
It should be remembered that the drawing must be intelligible and readable, at least for the person who will assemble the furniture.
Calculation and detailing
It is impossible to make cabinet furniture with your own hands without taking into account the consumption of materials. This stage requires the compilation of a detailed list of what material each part will be made of, indicating its parameters. The sheet is given to the nearest available workshop, where all elements will be sawn and primary processed (edge).
The list should include consumables for the body, accessories, fasteners. So you can easily calculate the final cost of furniture, taking into account the services of the workshop. The price of a thing made by one's own hands at home is 30–35% less than the retail price in stores.
Furniture assembly technology
Any furniture should begin to be constructed with your own hands from the main frame, that is, from the largest details, gradually adding small ones. Bookcase collection example:
- After preparatory phase the side, upper and lower walls of the frame are connected and the diagonal is aligned.
- Then, with the help of self-tapping screws, it is attached rear end from fiberboard.
- The third stage is the fastening of the shelves. Confirmates guarantee a stronger connection.
- The places of the side walls spoiled by hardware with outside can be decorated with matching color caps.
- Now it's the turn of additional internal details, for example, shelves can have drawers (additional partitions).
- The decorative parts (linings, facade, etc.) are mounted last.
Beds are assembled according to the same scheme, kitchen cabinets, wardrobes and other home furniture. When using an injury-prone electrical equipment generally accepted security measures are followed.
In order to make furniture yourself, you need to have a desire, a little care, time and basic knowledge in the field of construction. If everything is done correctly, the result will be an exclusive and functional piece of decor that will last long years and will fit perfectly into the interior of the apartment.
In this article we will talk about how to make simple practical furniture for a summer residence from wood with your own hands. Interest in self-manufacturing items of entourage is always high and this is not surprising. It is enough to go to any supermarket and see what the price of seemingly cheap plastic tables and chairs is and you will see that it will be cheaper to do everything yourself.
Of course the best choice there will be wood and there are a number of reasons for this, including:
- low price of boards and timber;
- simplicity machining, since it is possible to cut and drill a tree using the simplest tool without the need for expensive equipment;
- excellent appearance of the finished product due to the specific texture of the wood surface;
- environmental friendliness of the material;
- the possibility of processing various decorative and protective paints and varnishes.
Of course, this is an incomplete list of advantages, but we immediately note some disadvantages. There is only one drawback of wood - this is a low resistance to negative impact environmental factors.
For example, lumber products with long-term exposure sun rays dry out and crack. With long-term exposure precipitation tree without special training rots and loses its original density and strength.
Tip: Aspen is characterized by high resistance to excessive moisture. Wood of this breed is widely used for interior decoration of washing and steam rooms in baths and saunas where it is not customary to use protective coatings from paint materials.
If ordinary wood species are used instead of aspen, it is advisable to impregnate finished products with drying oil and cover with several layers of enamel.
So after we've made our choice production material, consider what you can make with your own hands from wood.
The method of making country stools
Before proceeding with manufacturing, we will learn that country furniture made of wood, regardless of modification, must be reliable, functional and easy to manufacture. That is why the stools that we make will be foldable and assembled - compact, and therefore convenient for temporary storage.
As the main materials, a tongue-and-groove board with a thickness of 20 mm, a width of 60 and 90 mm will be used.
From the board we cut the following pieces:
- length 470 mm and width 60 mm - 4 pcs;
- length 320 mm and width 60 mm - 4 pcs;
- length 320 mm and width 40 mm - 2 pcs;
- length 350 mm and width 90 mm - 2 pcs;
- length 350 mm and width 60 mm - 2 pcs.
In addition to the above blanks, you will need hardware for the manufacture of a bolted joint.
Assembly instructions are as follows:
- From the scraps of the board, as shown in the diagram, we assemble the seat. We fix all structural elements with screws, the heads of which are sunk flush with the surface of the boards.
- Next, the legs of the chair are made, which are fastened with crossbars and bolted in the center.
Important: For greater aesthetics and at the same time the safety of using the chair, it is advisable to round the sharply protruding corners of the legs, as shown in the diagram.
- We attach the assembled legs to the seat by means of a bolted connection.
The finished product is a stool, which, if necessary, can be folded and it will not take much storage free space. For ease of use, all surfaces can be treated with fine-grained sandpaper, impregnate with drying oil and paint with paintwork materials such as PF-115 or PF-116.
Making a rocking chair
It is no secret that the dacha is used by many compatriots exclusively for horticultural work but you also need to rest sometime. For a holiday in free time There is nothing better than a homemade rocking chair.
The design of the chair, which we bring to your attention, is not difficult, and you will surely cope with the assembly of this product with your own hands.
From the materials you will need planks 10 mm thick and 30 mm wide and a sheet of laminated plywood no thinner than 15 mm. From the tool you will need a jigsaw and an electric drill.
The manufacturing instructions are as follows:
- On the plywood sheet, in accordance with the above diagram, we draw the contours of the sidewalls.
- We cut the strips to the width of the future chair. The length can be applied in accordance with the proposed scheme or chosen based on your own preferences.
Important: It must be remembered that with an increase in the length of the bar, it is necessary to increase its thickness.
- Next, we fix the prepared planks with self-tapping screws around the perimeter of the plywood sidewalls. For greater strength, the strips can be fastened not only from above, as shown in the diagram, but also from below.
Important: In order for the planks and plywood not to crack, it is advisable to pre-drill holes for the screws of a slightly smaller diameter.
- It is advisable to clean the finished product with sandpaper, cover with drying oil, and after complete drying, treat with one or more layers of varnish.
- Now it remained to consider how a wooden table is assembled, which will adorn itself as traditional dacha, and country houses from block containers
Assembling the table
As already mentioned, country furniture should be simple and utilitarian, and in addition, reliable and inexpensive to assemble. These qualities characterize the table, which is proposed in the diagram.
To assemble the product, you will need edged board 40 mm thick and 140 mm wide. Self-tapping screws are required for installation. From the tools you will need a hacksaw, an electric drill with a screwdriver function, a grinder with sandpaper, measuring accessories and a painting tool for coating the finished product with paints and varnishes.
Assembly instructions are as follows:
- We make a tabletop, which is a canvas assembled from 7 boards and reinforced with 2 jumpers.
- In the jumpers, as shown in the diagram, holes are drilled for the bolted connection of the supports.
- Next, supports are made, the ends of which are cut at an angle of 45 degrees. In order to choose the right angle and cut the board along it, we use a protractor or miter box.
- We assemble all the prepared components into a single whole and check the strength of the finished structure.
- The final stage of production wooden table is the grinding of the finished product and the impregnation of its surface using drying oil.
- A completely dried surface can be covered with a layer of paint or varnish.
Important: For the full use of power tools when processing wood in a non-electrified country house, you may need to purchase or rent a diesel generator for a summer residence.
Conclusion
What conclusion can be drawn from all of the above? First of all, if you have drawings of country furniture with your own hands, you can make a lot of useful and inexpensive things from wood. Moreover, to work with wood, you do not need an expensive and hard-to-find tool, since the accessories that are in every home workshop or in the garage are quite enough.
And finally, if properly approached protective treatment finished products, you can count on the fact that home-made furniture will last for many years without the need for repairs. If there are any more questions useful information can be found by watching the video in this article.
