For technological, ergonomic, and more often for aesthetic purposes, a chamfer is used to process the edges of products. Any person in his life has heard this short word more than once, often without knowing its meaning. So, chamfer - what is it and where can you find it? How important is this detail?
Facet - what is it?
First of all, this is the bevel of the edge of the corner of the material. It is used for technological purposes in mechanical engineering and metalworking to improve the quality of the weld. In the same area, you can find the chamfer of the mounting hole, which serves to reduce the likelihood of injury from sharp edges. The same method of preparing holes can be seen in the manufacture of furniture, only in this case it serves to fasten parts flush (when the heads of bolts and screws are not visible).
For aesthetic purposes, a chamfer is also used when laying floors. Thanks to this method of processing the edges, the cracks that form during temperature and humidity changes are not noticeable.
Mounting holes
As mentioned above, the chamfer is used to process mounting holes. It serves, first of all, to reduce the risk of injury from the sharp edges of the hole, but is also used to fasten parts to the tightness. This processing differs only in the angle of the bevel of the material. If the angle is usually chosen at 45 degrees, then the recommended slope of the bevel on the hole and shaft is 10 degrees for the interference fit.
Welds
Experienced specialists will say that a chamfer is necessary when performing. That this will not only ensure the high quality of the connection, but also greatly facilitate their work.
When joining two sheets of steel, a chamfer is used to bypass the limitation on the depth of penetration of the seam. Structurally, this element can be made in two ways: with a straight and curved surface. In this case, the second method is more often used, since such a recess has a larger volume.
wooden floors
When laying floors with wooden boards, you need to take into account many nuances. This is the quality of the material, and the degree of its drying, and the conditions under which the surface will be used. If the first two questions can be easily determined in advance, then the operating conditions of the floor can not always be predicted reliably. In this case, a chamfer is applied. What it is - explained above. It will not only make the floor look neater and more beautiful, but will also help to avoid visible gaps between the boards, which will inevitably appear over time.
When working with an array of wood, the question may arise: “How to make a chamfer?” Moreover, a woodworking machine is not quite suitable for this. First of all, the material is polished clean (it will be impossible to do this later). For chamfering, use with an edge cutter on a bearing. This allows you to achieve the perfect surface quality even with a slight curvature of the boards.
Laminate
Today, not everyone can afford floors made of solid wood and parquet boards due to the high labor costs and loss of time for repair work. Laminate floors are becoming more and more common in apartments. It is not only easy and quick to lay, but also has excellent performance and aesthetic qualities, in many ways not inferior to natural surfaces.
Currently, the market is more likely to buy laminate, on the edge of which there is a chamfer. What is it and how does it affect the final result? First of all, it looks more representative, completely repeating the appearance of natural wood. Secondly, this slight nuance masks changes in the gaps between the boards that appear during the operation of the floor.
Many consumers are still skeptical about such flooring. This is argued by the fact that the chamfer in the laminate is unacceptable, which will allow dust and dirt to accumulate in the recesses and penetrate into the seams. This is not so, because modern materials production technologies make it possible to make the laminate water and dirt resistant over the entire surface. A well-made lock will prevent the penetration of debris into the seams.
A chamfer is the surface of a product, which is formed during the processing of a rolled product or pipe by a bevel of the end edge of the material. A chamfer is necessary to prepare the edges of sheets, beams and pipes for welding.
The main types of chamfers are:
- "Gas". This is the cheapest type of pipe bevel due to its poor quality. However, this type is one of the most common. This chamfer is removed using . Chamfer "Gas" can be performed in the field. Its surface is usually with characteristic grooves, which are formed from a gas jet (propane or acetylene).
- "Plasma". Outwardly, this type of chamfer is practically no different from the "mechanics". It can also be attributed to the "factory". The "Plasma" chamfer is an air-plasma cutter, a compressor and, forcing the cutter to move strictly in a circle, when a certain chamfer angle is set.
- "Mechanics". This is a factory chamfer, the best quality. For cutting the chamfer "mechanics" are used and. In the pipe market, this chamfer is mainly used due to the high quality of the chamfer.
What is the purpose of chamfering? When welding blanks, the metal is melted, which subsequently ensures the connection of the edges with each other. If the thickness of the metal is more than 3-5 mm, obtaining a complete and high-quality connection becomes difficult. To obtain high-quality penetration, this type of processing is carried out: it allows you to create a so-called weld pool, which is filled with a welding compound during the welding process. It is important to remember that an edge prepared for welding is an edge with a chamfer and blunting (see the figure and symbols for it below).
Types of chamfers (methods of cutting edges).
There are three main ways of cutting edges for welding: Y-shaped, X-shaped, and J-shaped. Sometimes in some sources they are denoted by letters: V, K and U, respectively. Hereinafter, the above methods will be denoted by the letters: Y, X. J. Most often, a Y-shaped cutting of the edges is carried out, but there is also an X-shaped method. In special cases, when there is an increased requirement for the quality of the weld, a J-shaped chamfer is used, that is, a chamfer with a curved surface (not to be confused with edge curvature!).
In addition to the main ways of processing Y, X. J edges, there are a number of edge preparations. They are not so rare, and not everywhere you can find their description. For example, GOST 5264-80 describes a butt joint type with a broken edge bevel; symbol - C14.
The diagrams above show some examples of processing methods:
1: an example of a Y-shaped chamfering method;
2, 3, 4: examples of the X-shaped chamfering method;
5: Y-shaped processing of the ends of two pipes with their subsequent connection;
Chamfering methods.
Chamfering can be done in two ways: mechanical and thermal (table 1). Mechanical chamfering is performed using milling, beveling and edge-cutting machines. For thermal chamfering, flame cutting machines (stationary or portable) are used that perform plasma or oxy-fuel cutting. However, the mechanical method is more preferable, since it makes it possible to exclude changes in the physical and chemical properties of the material as a result of overheating. As you know, during heat treatment, a so-called heat-affected zone is formed. The heat affected zone is the carburization of the edge due to overheating of the material, which impairs weldability and increases the brittleness and brittleness of the edge. But, despite these shortcomings, the thermal method is quite common because of its simplicity and speed of use, and the relatively low cost of equipment.
Table 1. Advantages and disadvantages of thermal and mechanical methods of chamfering.
Table 1 says that thermal chamfering can be done quickly and cheaply. Of the processing methods described above, mechanical is still preferable, since it allows you to save the metal from overheating and from subsequent changes in physical and chemical properties. In the West, by the way, this method is called cold-cutting (cold working), that is, a type of processing in which there is no thermal effect on the metal, which means there are no changes in the chemical and physical properties of the metal.
Video footage:
1. Pipe cutting by gas cutting machine CG2-11G, simultaneous chamfering of the pipe is carried out by tilting the cutter at the required angle.
2. Chamfering from a 76x6mm pipe with a Mangust-2MT machine
3. Pipe chamfering with a TT series chamfer, and pipe chamfering with a P3-SD split pipe cutter
The SPIKOM group of companies offers to supply equipment for chamfering pipes and metal using all of the above processing methods (gas, plasma, mechanical).
Chamfering a board can be done in a variety of ways. Two of them are most common: with the help of a manual and with an automatic tool. The negative side of the use of hand tools (various planers) is considered to be a high degree of injury risk, as well as a catastrophically low pace of work. Of course, automatic and semi-automatic milling machines are ideal for solving the indicated goals.
On the website http://www.zaoportal.ru/product/view/111 you can purchase a professional chamfering machine. The main reason why home craftsmen avoid buying such equipment is the apparent difficulty in operation. In fact, setting up and using it for its intended purpose does not cause any difficulties even for a novice user.
Initially, it is important to choose the right type of cutter. There are several types of bevels. Choose the one that suits your specific task. Not always a suitable cutter is included with the cutter.
But it won't be hard to get one. Cutters of this kind are freely available in tool stores and cost a penny.
Preparing the router for work is as follows:
- a hose from a vacuum cleaner is placed in the waste disposal socket;
- the position of the cutter is adjusted;
- the milling cutter is fixed in a given position;
- horizontal guides are installed.
With the addition of a vacuum cleaner, work is much easier. When processing wood, there is practically no waste left.
Initially, the cutter height adjustment knob must be turned until a characteristic click is heard. The depth adjuster pulls out 3 mm downwards. Then he goes down on his head. Thus, we get the "zero" position of the cutter.
Now, by turning the height adjustment knob, you can quickly and without much difficulty change the position of the cutter by 5, 10 mm.
Router guides for correct chamfering should also be adjusted. This is achieved quite simply - it is only important to tighten the nuts on the guides until the router slides along the surface to be treated, as if on rails.
Usually, when planing wooden blocks or narrow boards, it is often necessary to chamfer a small size from the edges of the workpiece, in order to reduce the sharpness of the corners, as well as to make them more beautiful. To do this under normal conditions, you have to hold the workpiece with a planer at an angle of about 45 degrees, which is not very convenient, especially when you work with an electric planer, which is many times heavier than a manual one. You can solve this problem with your special fixtures, which will look like a longitudinal corner, where the bar will be placed, which will be further processed, and its edge will be just at the top, which is convenient for processing.
This arrangement of the workpiece in a homemade fixture will also help for planing faceted and round bars, as well as wooden handles that are inconvenient to process on a flat surface. The author of the homemade product thought about making such a device, since it became necessary when he was planing blanks for the handles of shovels, because with such a device the work was completed faster, and it was also much more convenient to work this way.
In order to make this device, you must:
Two wooden planks 2 cm thick, 4 cm wide and 6 cm wide, and 2 m long.
Wooden plank 2 cm thick, 5 cm wide, and 50 cm long.
Wood screws 4x50 mm.
Drawing and measuring tools (pencil, tape measure and square).
Awl.
Electric jigsaw with a file for a figured cut.
Electric drill-driver.
Drill for metal with a diameter of 4 mm.
Spherical cutter for wood.
Cross (shaped) bit RN2, for screwdriving.
Sandpaper.
When all the materials, as well as tools, are available, then you can proceed to the most interesting, this assembly process.
Step one.
First of all, you need to decide on the dimensions, you can use the dimensions that are given here, but if your workpiece is large, then simply increase the size of all the components to the required one. Using a pencil, we mark a bar 6 cm wide, then using a screwdriver and a drill, we drill holes along its entire length, on one side there are 5 or 6 holes for screws, as a rule, the more, the better, and more reliable.
Step two.
Having placed the bar on the opposite side with the help of a drill installed in the screwdriver chuck, we increase the dimensions for the screw heads, using a spherical wood cutter.
After we have increased the holes for the hats, we insert screws into these holes and screw our bar to the end of another bar 4 cm wide.
What should happen at this stage can be seen in the photo, this is the so-called wooden corner, its length is 2 m, made in order to have a margin in length used in the processing of blanks, thereby increasing the range of application, since you do not have to combine sizes, then small, then large fixtures, and it’s easier and more practical to make one, but more authentic.
Step three.
Using a jigsaw, we cut out a smaller workpiece from a plank, which will be the supporting part, with which the device will be held on a flat surface, this process requires sufficient accuracy and accuracy, for better accuracy, use a special corner stand on the jigsaw, which will help in creating even cuts. When working with a jigsaw, be extremely careful and do not forget to wear safety glasses and gloves, protecting yourself from accidental sawdust and wood dust getting into your eyes, and also protecting you from slipping out of the hands of the tool.
Step four.
The previous blank, the role of which is to hold our corner part, must be drawn, the lines must correspond to an angle of 45 degrees, as in the main part, for a better match, attach the future support and circle with a pencil. To fix it, you need to drill holes for the screws, in this case there will be three of them, which is quite enough, we select the drill according to the diameter of the screws so that the thread passes without difficulty.
Step five.
Then we twist the screws with a screwdriver, that is, we fasten this workpiece to the end of our corner fixture, try not to overdo it with the twisting force so as not to damage the support and form a crack in it.
The rest of the bar will also benefit, we make the same blanks from it using a jigsaw, you will need two of these.
We supplement the corner with two more supports, which will make it much more stable, and it will also acquire a large workload, which is also important during processing. We fasten them in the same way as the first support.
Step six.
The back of the fixture must be drilled on each side, while using a screwdriver with a drill, the diameter of which is equal to the thickness of the screw, for strength we make two holes on each side to prevent turning.
The place of the holes, as in the previous stages, must be processed with a spherical wood cutter in order to drown the screw heads and thereby eliminate accidental engagement.
Step seven.
Armed with a screwdriver and a bit for driving screws, we twist the screws into blanks.
Next, we move on to more precise processing, for this we use sandpaper, as usual we start with a larger one, gradually reduce the size of the grit as we approach the finish of grinding.
On this, our home-made device is ready, now we will consider it from all sides for a full assessment.
This is what its back looks like.
And so is the front.
After you make such a device, you will have the opportunity to process bars without any difficulties and inconvenience, whether it be a wooden handle or a blank with square edges.
