How to fix the roof to floor slabs. Hip roof on floor slabs. Video for do-it-yourself builders

Before undertaking the construction of the most interesting and convenient roof structure, it is worth correctly assessing what advantages and disadvantages lie behind an attractive external facade ideas. hip roof- not an exception. It is worth noting that making a hip roof is a rather expensive pleasure that requires funds, knowledge and practical experience.

Features of hip roof construction

If you look closely at the classic hip roof, it becomes clear that it was created primarily for two or three storey houses, for conditions with large quantity rainfall and changeable direction strong winds. No wonder such designs are also called Dutch or Danish. It is there that the advantages of a hip roof are obvious. But the beauty of the design sometimes makes you make hips just for the sake of appearance roof and facade of the house, and not some special properties.

If we compare the dimensions and material costs on a gable layout and a four-slope hip roof, we can draw the following conclusions:

• Making two additional roof slopes instead of flat gables is beneficial due to lower costs for a wooden frame beam, but unprofitable in terms of roofing materials consumption;
• If you make the walls of the house from modern aerated concrete blocks or bricks from wood concrete mixture, this will reduce heating costs, but the cost of strengthening the supporting frame of the hip roof will increase significantly, by almost 25-30%;
• make a roof hip design advantageous if the house is in conditions of constant strong winds and heavy rainfall. In this case, heat loss on a gable roof is 5-10% higher than on structures with hips;
• With the same consumption of materials, making a simple hip roof is more expensive due to the need to pay for the services of more qualified builders and specialists;
• The design with hips, with the same quality of construction, is considered more durable and durable in comparison with gable roof schemes.

Important! The hip roof today has become almost a classic of the genre in architecture. low-rise construction cottages and country houses.

Make a hip roof and make no mistake

The hip roof today can look very beautiful and original. Modern developments of hip roof structures make it possible to make it on almost any modern building, with or even without a foundation. If the building does not even have a tape foundation normal depth, a hip roof can be made according to the simplest scheme - with a very small slope of the roof slope, a large extension hanging rafters and wide roof overhang. Naturally, complete attic space and the overlap device will be impossible due to the weak stability of the box at home. This approach will make it possible to make the minimum aerodynamic load from the wind, good protection walls and foundations from rain flows, and will reduce heat loss through the upper parts of the house. Great option for a small country house.

The main schemes for assembling the hip roof frame:

1. Construction based only on walls, without the use of floors or ceiling beams;
2. The sloping version of the frame installation allows you to increase the size hipped roof in height;
3. The beam-supported roof of the house is the most commonly used option for houses with light walls with insufficient rigidity of the building box;
4. A hip roof supported by floor slabs is the most common option in modern construction two and three storey houses.

Hip roof supported by floors

Unlike conventional gable roofs, in which the angle of inclination of the flooring can be from 30 - 65 °, hip schemes have an optimal angle of 45 °. Almost all constructions and calculations are performed based on the specified angle of inclination of the main elements of the frame - diagonal rafters. This option provides maximum structural strength.

The use of layered schemes and supports on the beam ceiling

Most often, such a roof is supported by the lower part of the rafters on a Mauerlat made of timber or thick boards, fixed to the upper end of brick or concrete walls future home. Together with the foundation, the walls form a rigid semi-closed system capable of withstanding vertical and horizontal loads from the rafters. Installing a floor from a log, beam or board in such schemes is necessary to form the ceiling and attic floor. The overlap itself in holding the roof or individual elements does not carry a hip structure.

In the layered construction of truss supports, there is also usually an option ceiling made of wooden beams. At small sizes at home, the specific strength of the floor is enough to partially take on the load from the ridge run and rafters. If the length of the beam increases by more than 5 m, the strength of such an overlap to hold the roof is clearly not enough. Therefore, supporting columns or even part of the walls are built in the central part, on which the central part of the floor beam rests. The load from the ridge run is transmitted through vertical poles on one powerful central beam, called the bed. Sometimes the force from the weight of the structure is transmitted through the bed directly to the stone supports, without the participation of the ceiling itself.

Thanks to this load redistribution scheme, the rafters can be thinner and lighter, and the pressure on the walls of the house is reduced by 30-40%.

Using joist to hold rafters

Often in the construction of a house, the ability of the main walls to hold is not always the decisive factor. vertical load from the weight of the roof and frame. A similar situation often arises in the construction of panel houses, in buildings with lightweight walls, or when using blocks with low rigidity as the main material for the walls, for example, arbolite stone.

In these cases, even partial unloading and transfer of most of the pressure from the weight of the hip roof from the perimeter external walls to domestic stone walls and support does not solve the problem. The rigidity and strength of the main box of the building is not enough to securely hold even a hip roof, not to mention a gable scheme. The problem of additional rigidity can be solved by making a special overlap of a wooden beam at the base of the roof, with a section of 20x20 cm or 20x15 cm. The beams are laid on top of the finished Mauerlat, with a projection beyond the walls by 60-70 cm, in increments of half a meter. The overlap of the beam must be supported by one of the internal walls.

The ends of the beam protruding beyond the walls are used to fasten the lower parts of the rafter legs, and in the central part of the ceiling a frame is installed with supports supporting ridge run and upper part rafters. The main part of the structure - diagonal rafters are installed at the corners of the floor and connected at one point on the ridge run.

Hip roofs with supports on floor slabs

Constructions with hip triangles have long become an obligatory attribute of two or three-story brick and stone cottages built according to classical technology with reinforced concrete slab ceilings. Due to the high strength of the plates and brick walls the problem of providing the required rigidity of the supporting surface under the frame is not worth it.

To hold the weight of the frame, the same scheme is used as in the layered version. The frame with vertical struts and struts, which takes the force from the ridge beam and rafters, rests on a bed fixed on a concrete floor slab.

Features of building a hip roof

Designed to withstand any wind load, but subject to strict observance of the geometry of the connection of the four main diagonal rafters.

The accuracy of the connection and geometry of the rafters

All efforts can be in vain if violated optimal angles slope of the hip rafters to the ceiling and the angle between them. The best option considered a scheme in which the angular hip rafters connected to each other at an angle of 90 o.

The optimal angle between the hip beams is an important but insufficient condition for the strength of the hip roof frame. If you look at the roof frame in profile, both hip planes should have absolutely same size and the same angle. Otherwise, the structure will be overloaded on one of the sides, and this is the first step towards deformation and destruction. If you look at the frame from above, you can see that when perfect assembly opposite corner hip rafters should be parallel.

Methods for connecting beams and hip roof rafters

Despite the efforts made to unload part of the structure, it is difficult to make the frame absolutely ideal in terms of the arrangement of beams and load-bearing elements. Therefore, in all main power beams and rafters, metal overlay plates and wooden overhead elements are used when fastening and fixing on walls.

Most often, beams and rafters at the setup stage are “drafted” together, the easiest way to do this is with the help of self-tapping screws and clamps. After adjusting the dimensions of all joints, it is necessary to check the position of the beams and rafters, then all the fasteners are finally connected, it is easier to do this with nails, hammering them in pairs at different angles.

The ligaments of the diagonal hips are fixed first on the ridge run, while the withdrawal from the calculated place of the opposite beams is necessarily checked. This is the most responsible and difficult stage of the assembly of the structure, and it is important to do this procedure slowly and very efficiently. The qualification of a hip roof builder is manifested precisely at this stage, all subsequent work is quite within the power to do an ordinary carpenter who has general idea about the device of diagonal rafters and hips.

The load on the diagonals of hip roofs exceeds the force on an ordinary rafter by more than one and a half times. Therefore, the adjusted and fixed corner hips are first knocked out with struts and stops. Each of the retaining elements is adjusted individually and is also fastened with a reinforced connection. At the next stage, it is important to correctly install the sprigs and ordinary rafters; upon completion, you need to tighten the fastening of the rafter legs on the Mauerlat or floor beams.

Before laying the vapor barrier, it is imperative to treat with preservative solutions. It's easier and safer, you can use the most popular Tikkurila formulations in an organic solvent.

Conclusion

It is not so difficult to make a roof with hips if there is a real specialist in the team who can be entrusted with monitoring the implementation of the main, especially critical junctions of power elements. It is possible to do these works yourself, without having practical experience in building hips, but the construction itself will stretch for several months, and the cost of damaged material will just amount to the cost of the services of a qualified specialist.

That warm air rises, every student knows. Based on this, it can be assumed that a significant part of the heat that the house “loses” escapes through the roof.

Therefore, the reduction of heat loss must begin with a roof insulation device.

The type, quantity and method of installation of insulation depends on the type of roof and on how the attic space is used - residential or not.

The requirements for insulation of a residential attic are certainly higher than for non-residential ones, so in this article we will focus on the insulation of a residential attic. Uninhabited attic it is easier to insulate - from the side of the ceiling or along the floor. At the same time, we will focus on two types of roofs - pitched and flat.

It is easier to insulate a pitched roof from the inside of the roof, since access to the rafter part is open. Plus, the requirements for thermal insulation materials are lower.

First you need to choose the type of insulation that will combine the optimal properties - cost, efficiency and reliability.

Popular modern materials for roof insulation

1. Soft insulation - mineral or basalt wool

If such material is chosen for roof insulation, then mineral wool of the required thickness is selected.

Manufacturers provide the buyer wide selection various materials, which have different density and geometric dimensions. Choose for yourself the one that suits you specifically in terms of price and parameters. The only drawback of cotton wool is its hygroscopicity.

This means that cotton wool absorbs water, respectively, from this its qualities are greatly reduced. Therefore, cotton wool must be protected from water from above and from steam from below. This necessitates the use of two types of film - a vapor barrier and a hydro barrier. They can be replaced with a universal superdiffusion membrane.

Mineral wool roofing technology

• If on rafter system a hydro-barrier is laid, then sheets are laid between the rafters mineral wool, which are closed from below with a vapor barrier.

• If there is no hydrobarrier, then to begin with, a hydrobarrier film is nailed to the rafter with a stapler. It is important to overlap it; for this, the roll is marked.

• Then a wooden beam is stuffed onto the rafter leg in thickness equal to the thickness of the insulation.

• A heater is placed in the resulting cells. Mineral wool should be laid tightly, but not knocked down. After all, the insulation goes, including due to the air gap, which is obtained due to the structure of the wool. And if it is laid tightly, then there will be less air and the properties of cotton wool will deteriorate.

• It is convenient to attach cotton wool to a tree using a nylon cord or thin wooden lath. Next, the cotton wool is covered with a vapor barrier film.

The roofing pie is schematically shown in the figure.

Tip: You can save time and money by installing hard insulation instead of a hydro barrier. And already mount cotton wool on it, with the obligatory use of a vapor barrier film. However, this approach is possible only in the case of a well-mounted roof. Otherwise, any leakage will negate all the savings.

2. Rigid insulation - foam or polystyrene foam

This material is used more often, not because its thermal insulation characteristics are higher, but because it is easier to work with. After all, it is light, cheap, easy to cut and does not absorb water at all. So, there are no costs for protective films.

When choosing polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene as a roofing insulation, it is worth remembering that these materials are fire hazardous and emit acrid smoke when burned.

The foam is mounted by laying the plates in the gaps between rafter legs. In this case, the sheets are stacked tightly, and the slots are blown with mounting foam.

Tip: If you want to improve the quality of work, give preference to a thinner and denser foam. However, lay the sheets in two layers in a checkerboard pattern.

3. Liquid insulation - liquid penoizol

Liquid penoizol is a relatively new thermal insulation material that has already been appreciated by professionals. Penoizol insulation with a competent approach guarantees a high protective effect for many years.

Processing with foam takes little time, while the efficiency is incredibly high. Liquid insulation penoizol using special installation sprayed (applied) on the inner surface of the roof.

The thickness of the applied layer can vary in the desired direction. Penoizol does not need additional protection. And most importantly, it is not combustible, does not get wet and has a small whole.

With the use of these materials, it is possible to perform insulation of the attic floor.

Helpful advice: When choosing a heater, do not put the price at the forefront. In this type of work more important characteristics material and installation quality.

It is important to choose not only the type of insulation, but also to correctly calculate its thickness. which should be optimal. On the one hand, sufficient to ensure the preservation of heat. On the other hand, in order not to overpay.

To do this, carefully read the characteristics and properties of the material and take into account the characteristics of the structural elements of the structure, the temperature in winter period, the strength and direction of the wind, the amount of precipitation in the region.

Many houses are being built in the style traditional for Western European countries. Namely, with the arrangement of a flat roof. Which, most often, is reserved for leisure zones (for example, for a device or).

However, flat roofs also need insulation, just like pitched ones. But, its warming has some nuances. The most important of these is the creation of a slope.

On a completely flat roof, water will have nowhere to go but evaporate or seep down. But a slope of 1.5 - 4 about will not create any inconvenience to roof users.

The flat roof is flattened using expanded clay. The direction of the slope should lead to the flow of water to the funnels of the drainage system.

When laying, it is important to ensure that there are no gaps on the film.

Insulation is selected and installed. At the same time, it should not absorb water, withstand point loads, and not lose its qualities during temperature changes.

1. soft insulation. The most popular is rockwool (Rockwool) of increased density. He endures high temperatures, significant point loads, at the same time it is easy to install and provides the possibility of fusing the roof.


2. rigid insulation. Even the density of expanded polystyrene is not enough to withstand serious loads. At the same time, rigid heaters are combustible.


3. liquid insulation. Maintains high temperatures, loadings, is steady against an ultraviolet and biocorrosion.

It is more convenient to insulate the roof of a flat roof from the outside. To do this, the heat-insulating material is laid on top of the floor slab or corrugated board (example in the photo).

After performing the insulation, in this way, lawns can be planted on the roof, elements can be arranged landscape design or equip cafes and recreation areas.

Insulation of the roof and attic floors - errors and ways to eliminate them

Conclusion

Quality and proper insulation overlapping the roof will reduce heat loss in the house, or even use the attic as an operated (warm and residential) space.

During the construction of urban high-rise buildings and industrial facilities, the basis of a flat roof is usually a reinforced concrete slab. But for private houses, especially frame and wooden ones, this choice is most often unacceptable. In this case, a flat roof is built on wooden beams. Its main advantage is a light weight, reducing the load on the walls and foundation.

The device of such a roof is simpler and cheaper than when using heavy reinforced concrete slabs. But the functionality is the same. Therefore, this option of a flat roof is often chosen by those who want to build it with their own hands.

The main share of such roofs falls on private houses and cottages, whose owners appreciate the futuristic style, convenience and practicality. Still - on the floors of verandas, terraces, balconies, garages. As a rule, all these buildings are wooden or frame, requiring light construction roofs. But this is not a mandatory rule. The wall material can be any - brick, aerated concrete, foam concrete, etc. In this case, wooden beams often cut into a Mauerlat - a wooden beam that runs along the perimeter of the walls and is connected to them with anchor bolts or studs.

A flat roof is especially attractive to developers because its horizontal surface can be used as usable area. Moreover, this is possible even for the roof, which is based on wooden beams.

Of course, you should not use the freed meters for a parking lot, a swimming pool or a tennis court. Still, such projects require a more monumental foundation. But outdoor terrace, an observation deck, a home greenhouse, wooden beams can easily withstand. The main thing is to correctly calculate and not save on the thickness of the lumber.

Types of flat roofs on beams

On wooden floors, you can build a flat roof of the following types:

• unexploited;
• exploited;
• inversion.

That is, all possible types - without restrictions.

Unexploited roof- ordinary, ending with a waterproofing finish. It is intended solely to protect the premises from the conditions environment and does not set itself other goals. It is impossible to use it as a place of rest, to move in large companies, to install terrace furniture and flowerpots. The coating of such a roof is designed for the fact that 1-2 people will periodically climb it, solely for the maintenance of the structure.

exploited roof- more interesting and more difficult. In addition to direct protective functions, such a roof plays the role of an additional usable area for the homeowner. The design pie ends not with waterproofing (prone to damage), but protective coating– paving stones, decking, wooden deck, paving slabs, sod layer, crushed stone or gravel.

inverted roof- roof-reversible, a qualitatively different option. It can be both operated and non-operated. Its feature is the inverted order of the layers in the cake. If in a conventional roof the waterproofing is laid on top of the insulation, then in the inversion roof the opposite is true. Waterproofing lies under the insulation, and vapor barrier is generally excluded from the structure of the pie. Due to this, the waterproofing is protected from the outdoor environment and its service life is increased.

However, under the influence of unfavorable outdoor conditions, a heater is found, therefore, in the composition of inverted roofs, the choice of this type isolation is limited. Only EPS (extruded polystyrene foam) and nothing else! This material has almost zero water absorption, high density and strength. From above, EPSS in inverted roofs is loaded with washed gravel, paving stones, paving slabs or a sod layer.

An interesting option for operated roofs (including inversion ones) is green roof. It can also be held on wooden beams. The cake of such a roof ends with a soil layer on which plants are planted. There are other elements that are not used for other types of roofs: a drainage layer (gravel, expanded clay, crushed pumice or geomats), a filtration layer (geotextile).

Flat roof frame on a wooden base

The frame of the described roofs are wooden beams, laid according to the type of interfloor overlap. Full-length sawn wood or multi-piece (glued) timber can be used. Often beams are made of boards with a section of 100x150 mm.

Beams are laid with support on the walls, similarly floors. If the building is wooden or frame, then the beams are supported on top crown logs or top harness. If brick or block - then on a pre-fixed Mauerlat. As a Mauerlat, a bar with a section of 150x150 mm or 150x100 mm is usually used. It is mounted on the upper belt of the walls using anchors or studs. To protect the wooden Mauerlat from the material of the walls, 1-2 layers of waterproofing (roofing material) are laid between them.

On the beams, cuts are made under the Mauerlat, they are laid and fixed with metal corners or nails. The step between the beams is maintained 50-120 mm (depending on the calculated load).

When installing beams, it is important to ensure a roof slope of 1-6 °. Despite the fact that the roof is called flat, it is not absolutely horizontal. A slight slope is necessary to ensure the movement of water to the drain and thus prevent its stagnation.

You can create the required slope in the following ways:

1. Immediately lay the beams with the desired slope. Then, if a horizontal ceiling is supposed to be installed under the roof in the room, it is made suspended or sewn onto a horizontal crate.
2. Lay the beams horizontally, and to maintain the required angle, nail wooden plates of different heights to them.
3. Lay the beams horizontally, and form the corner due to different thickness thermal insulation laid over the frame.
4. Use beams with unequal height allowance.

Most often, the first option is used, that is, beams with a slope are immediately laid. The easiest way to do this is to pin along the top bearing wall a strong run from a bar or board, which will lift the frame (beams) on one side. Instead of a cross purlin, you can also install short radial beams extending from the central double diagonal beam.

Flat roof pie: what's inside?

A flat roof cake on a wooden frame can have a different structure. There are many design options, many of them are posted on the Internet. And they will all work!

Option 1. Roof with insulation over beams

Flat roof insulation layers can be laid over the beams. For example, a proven working option (classic roof with insulation):

• floor beams;
• vapor barrier;
• waterproofing material - polymer membrane.

When using EPPS insulation and PVC membranes in the structure at the same time, a separating layer (geotextile, fiberglass) must be laid between them. The matter is that these two materials are incompatible and at their direct contact there is a destruction of PVC.

The polymer membrane is fixed on the insulation mechanical method or loaded with ballast. Crushed stone or gravel (for all types of roofs), paving stones (for operated roofs), soil (for green operated roofs) are used as ballast. However, when choosing a ballast, one should soberly evaluate the reliability wooden frame, its ultimate load.

If as finish coat the use of welded waterproofing or an EPDM membrane with adhesive fixation is supposed to be used, a change is made to the scheme discussed above. It consists in the fact that sheets of plywood, OSB or DSP are laid between the insulation and waterproofing.

It turns out such a scheme:

• floor beams;
• crate (if necessary);
• solid sheathing made of plywood, DSP, OSB;
• vapor barrier;
• insulation - EPPS, mineral wool;
• sheets of plywood, OSB, DSP;
• waterproofing material.

The installation of built-up roofing traditionally requires the use of gas burner, therefore, according to existing fire regulations, it is unacceptable for wooden structures. Therefore, they act as follows. The first layer of waterproofing is nailed or glued to a wooden base, and the second layer is fused, as it should be. It is also convenient to use euroroofing material with a special adhesive base, for which it is recommended cold mounting without heating with a burner.

Mounting membrane roofing on a wooden base is shown in the video plot:

Option #2. Roof with inter-beam insulation

Another principle for assembling a flat roof pie is associated with laying insulation in the inter-beam space. This option is more convenient than the first if EPDM membranes with adhesive fixation or welded roofing are used as waterproofing.

This scheme is often used roofing cake:

• floor beams;
• vapor barrier (between beams);
• insulation (between the beams);
• crate (if necessary);
• solid sheathing made of plywood, DSP, OSB;
• waterproofing.

In principle, a similar system is used in the formation of classical pitched roofs.

Option #3. Roof with internal insulation

In this case, on load-bearing structure(beams) sew sheets of plywood, OSB or DSP, and waterproofing is laid on them. The remaining insulating layers of the roofing cake are sewn from the side of the room.

A rough ceiling is fixed on the beams (from boards or sheet materials), to it, perpendicular load-bearing beams, screw the slats in increments of 40 cm. Place between the slats polystyrene boards by sticking them on mastic or glue. Hemmed to the insulating layer vapor barrier film. Close the insulating cake with a finishing ceiling.

Or you can go against all the "traditional" solutions and build an inverted roof on the beams. Due to the fact that the waterproofing will be covered with insulation, that is, protected from stress, exposure to oxygen, UV rays and precipitation, its service life is significantly increased.

When constructing an inversion roof, you can use the following scheme (from bottom to top):

• beams;
• solid crate;
• waterproofing;
• separating layer (when using a PVC membrane as a waterproofing);
• EPPS insulation;
• separating layer - geotextile;
• ballast, paving slabs, decking, etc.

The principle of inverted roofing is often used for green roofs. For example, you can do this:

What top coat to use?

The wooden base of a flat roof, along with its advantages, also has features with a minus sign. This is an increased fire hazard and low bearing capacity (compared to reinforced concrete slabs).

For waterproofing such a roof, it is desirable to use materials that do not require hot installation. Ideally - polymer membranes. When choosing built-on bitumen-polymer coatings (from a series of euroroofing materials), the first layer of material is mounted mechanically, and the second - by welding. In order to minimize the possibility of fire of structures during installation, it is recommended to use non-combustible DSP boards as a continuous sheathing (on which waterproofing is laid).

When constructing exploitable and ballast roofs, it should also be remembered that excessive load for wooden base may be fatal. Therefore, if the bearing capacity of the beams used is low, light materials should be selected for the finish coating - decking, deck board, rubber paving slabs(rubber mats), etc.

Semyonovich, I did not find an answer on the Internet to this question. Sabbath. in a reinforced concrete workshop, the total area is 80 by 24 meters, the slope is about 5 degrees, it is filled with bitumen. It is proposed to tie the rafters directly on it with wire to the floor slabs. But how, I have no idea. It is clear that you need to drill holes in the slabs, but how to stick the wire into one hole and pull it out again into the next one to tie the rafter? From below it is impossible, there is nothing to walk on. Maybe there is another real and simple way to fix the rafters, please advise. Insulation between the rafters is also assumed.

Alexey, Vologda.

Hello, Alexey from Vologda!

Very non-standard question how to fix wooden rafters to the shop floor. Therefore, the answer to it is not visible on the Internet.

More and more similar ones are simply again covered with roofing material (rubemast, glass isol and the like) directly on its old layers, including the layer of poured bitumen. Sometimes these old layers of the roof are torn off. But this is, of course, difficult. New electrical installations are completely fixed roofing material the old way without deleting it. But they are still a rarity for our great and immense.

I confess that I have never blocked the workshop spans according to your method.

Smaller areas accounted for in several other variations.

At the same time, we laid wooden beams (and boards), an analogue of your rafters, and fastened them to reinforced concrete slabs not with wire, but somewhat differently.

They took a steel corner with a shelf of about 63 - 75 millimeters, cut it with a grinder into pieces 50 - 100 millimeters long. Holes were drilled in these scraps on both shelves. Holes / 2 - 3 pieces / were made for self-tapping screws in vertical shelves (about 5 millimeters in diameter), and in horizontal shelves one hole with a diameter of about 12 - 14 millimeters. (As an option - they took steel sheet 1.5 mm thick, cut into strips, then bent into a corner and drilled holes).

After that, the trimmings of the corner were applied with a vertical shelf to the surface of the wooden beam and fastened to it with self-tapping screws.

And the second horizontal shelf lay on the surface of a reinforced concrete slab.

Through a hole in the lower shelf of the corner, a hole in the plate was drilled with a perforator or through hole(when it was opposite the cell-cavity of the plate).

Then they took anchor bolts(you can use an anchor wedge), inserted into the hole, driven with a hammer. Then, with a drill with a head for a bolt, the anchors were screwed up to the stop. True, the number of anchors was decent, but they are not cheap.

Received a perfectly normal fit. In doing so, the following features were taken into account.

First, they calculated the approximate step of the reinforcement, which was in the reinforced concrete floor slabs, so that they would not get into them with a perforator and the anchor could be pushed in.

Secondly, when viewed from below, the view was not always presentable, in some places potholes were visible on the surface of the slabs (where the perforator drill hit large gravel, an integral part of concrete, and it fell out.

Thirdly, the rafters were not immediately attached to the slabs, but the longitudinal logs. And only then they put rafters on them and fastened them with staples, nails, self-tapping screws. This results in fewer fastening points, respectively, less labor intensity.

All pieces of wood were impregnated with KSD, "Senezh". So the customer demanded in accordance with the regulations. Experienced customers always exercise author's control and often require the use of not colorless compositions, but with color. Then you can see if there is coverage or not. You know, covens are not always scrupulous in this matter.

I can't say anything about other methods. You can, of course, lay out the rafters, drill holes next to them with a perforator and, driving around on an overhead crane inside the workshop span, stick wire into these holes and twist it. But this is somewhat difficult. Yes, and there may not be a crane, but you can’t jump with a ladder.

But this is all speculation on a free topic.

And now what would I personally do in your place.

In your case, floor slabs are most likely used. If memory serves, with spans like yours, their dimensions are about 9 meters by 1.5 (or 1.8) meters. The load-bearing reinforcement in such slabs is located along the perimeter. And throughout the area there is welded mesh with a large cell. Wire diameter from 3 to 5 millimeters. The plate itself has stiffeners. And the thickness fluctuates around 50 millimeters.

The slabs are supported on reinforced concrete truss arches. The joints of the plates along the strobes are castle or simple.

Then it is most advisable not to use logs, as we did with ordinary rectangular flat reinforced concrete floor slabs, but to take for rafters edged board section 40/150 millimeters. Lay it flat on the surface. "40" is more suitable here than "50", it bends better. Laying, respectively, from the edge to its center.

Then the boards of the crate can be taken measured, six meters long and placed along them without any bends.

Press the rafter boards well to the surface. That is, fix one end of the board, then a couple of people from the brigade should stand on the other end of the board. It will bend and will fit the slope of the roof. Then make fasteners for the next anchor bolt. Fastener pitch - about 1.5 meters. Drill holes for anchor bolts directly in the boards at their centers. And then drilling in the plates themselves.

Drive the anchor also with a hammer, wrap it with a drill with a head. It is most likely impractical to use a screwdriver, its power may not be enough. To prevent the head of the anchor bolt from falling into the wood, you can play it safe and put a washer under it large diameter. The length of the anchors should be approximately equal to the total thickness of the board, bitumen layer, plus the thickness of the floor slab.

There should not be many different kinds of holes along the perimeter of the roof in order to exclude the so-called windage, when the top wind enters a closed space and is able to tear the roof from its base. Such an extreme is rare, but it happens.

Everything proposed does not quite fit into the SNiPs, they would recommend putting the rafters on the edge for greater rigidity, using a 50/150 board, adjusting its surface along the slope, and using an edged board also 50 millimeters thick as a crate. Or remove layers of old roofing felt, make a concrete screed, or even rip off old floor slabs and install new ones with a new layer soft roof. But your customers are unlikely to go to such costs.

Once again, you can have simple iron concrete plates, and maybe floor slabs, respectively, and mounting options may be different.

Focus on circumstances. Try, experiment.

As for the insulation, there will be no special problems. Izover, ursa, mineral wool, polystyrene foam, whatever your heart desires. If you observe all decorum, then you need air gaps, various thermal films, in the worst case, glassine and all this on a counter-lattice. If the insulation is soft and 50 millimeters thick, then it's okay, the "40" board will pass completely, you just need to press it down a little.

However, this is my vision. The decision is still yours to make.

Other questions about roofs.

Attic floor is one of the most important structural elements of the building. It is wrong to assume that it is intended only for the formation of the floor and ceiling. Its main function is the horizontal connection of the walls of the building.

Attic floor arrangement

There are 2 types of installation of ceilings between the attic and the main premises of the house. The most commonly used technologies are:

• laying of reinforced concrete slab;
• installation on wooden joists.

Methods for installing attic floors are chosen depending on the material from which the building is built. If it is a brick, use concrete slabs. For buildings made of timber, sandwich panels, foam and gas blocks, the preferred option is installation on wooden logs.

What materials are required for the installation of the ceiling:

• standard reinforced concrete slabs, wooden beams;
• metal beams, fittings, cement;
• sand, gravel (if concreting is done by hand);
• reinforced concrete beams, means for fire and bioprotective treatment of wood;
• compositions to increase the coefficient of moisture and frost resistance of concrete;
• roofing material, vapor and waterproofing membranes and films.

Overlapping on wooden beams

Undoubted dignity wooden elements- simplicity, convenience and speed of construction. This method pleases developers with lower construction costs than with the installation of reinforced concrete slabs or self-concreting. When building economy class houses, a prefabricated hemming method of arranging wooden floors is used.

With 2-3 assistants, all work can be completed within one working day. Installation of an attic floor on wooden beams does not require construction site lifting equipment. wooden bars raise on desired height with your own hands or with the help of special devices using a winch.

light weight hardwood floor attic significantly reduces the load on the foundation. Any sound and heat insulator can be laid in the space between the lags. If hygroscopic materials such as mineral wool are used, then they perform work on vapor and waterproofing of the attic.

The disadvantages of floors on wooden beams include:

• lower bearing capacity than when using concrete slabs;
• combustibility of the material;
• the need for additional works to ensure the strength of the overlap so that it does not become a source of squeaks.

Mounting technology

For the device of overlap, a bar with a section of 150x250x100 mm, 150x250x200 mm or 100x250x40-80 mm is used. In the absence of a sufficient amount of this lumber, double boards 4-5 cm thick are used. Sheet or board materials sufficient rigidity: plywood, chipboard, DSP, OSB.

It is recommended to use sheets with a thickness of at least 8 mm. The filing can be done both directly on the logs, and on a pre-mounted crate of thin bars with a section of 4x4 or 4-5 cm. Nails and wood screws of sufficient length are used as fasteners.

In preparation for the installation of the ceiling, a thermal calculation is performed and the required thickness of the structure is determined. After that, a lag laying scheme is chosen. There are 2 options: the ends of the bars are located within the outer walls of the building or protrude beyond them by 20-40 cm.

• the length of the wall is rounded up;
• calculate the required number of beams;
• add to this indicator 2 more beams, which will be on opposite walls of the house.

Stages of work on the installation of an attic floor on wooden beams:

1. Preparation of lumber of the required length, Raising it up. Laying 2 outer wooden beams on the walls of the building. Performing markings for mounting intermediate logs.
2. flooring waterproofing material in nests (niches, recesses) previously built in the walls for the ends of the beams. Beam laying. Sealing holes: the resulting gaps between the beam and the walls of the nests are closed with a heater. You can use frost and moisture resistant polyurethane foam.
3. Execution of the crate according to bottom side coverings if necessary. Mounting the bottom sheet. Laying steam and heat insulating material in the openings between wooden beams. Mounting the top cover.

Similarly, the ceiling of a garage or other buildings is erected. It can be independent constructive element buildings, and part of the roof. In the second case, the structure is the bearing element of the roof.

This method of arranging an attic is optimal if it is necessary to cover the roof with corrugated board or some other finishing material. In this case, the direct adjoining of the roof to the ceiling is carried out.