Tile shower tray: how to make it yourself? Homemade concrete shower tray DIY tile shower tray

If you've started decorating your bathroom yourself, we guarantee that anyone can make a shower tray home handyman. To do this you need to know basic requirements to conduct communications and use suitable materials. Let's look at how to perform the main part of the design and installation.

Mosaic pallet

Choosing a location and design

When arranging a bathroom, a hand-made tile shower is not uncommon. Such designs provide for stationary placement. To construct it, it is necessary to provide a concrete pallet.

When arranging and decorating it, it is important to consider the following:

Water. Constant contact with water requires the use of waterproof materials. Therefore the tile is the best option for decorating the surface and protecting concrete from destruction. It is advisable to choose waterproof glue and appropriate grout. Required condition– arrangement of waterproofing. If you don't do this, you risk flooding your neighbors below.
Safety. Tile flooring tends to become slippery when wet. Therefore, choose non-slip tiles. The second option is the use of silicone mats, special spraying and similar devices.
Convenience. The sides of a stationary pallet must be of a suitable height. Invest in wall grab bars for added convenience. And most importantly, the booth should be spacious so that it is convenient to wash in it.

To make optimal use of the available space in a cramped bathroom, a tiled shower stall must meet several requirements:

location;
type of construction;
pallet shape;
dimensions of the sides;
access to communications.

The first and last factors are closely related. It is advisable to locate the cabin in a place where there is an exit water pipes and sewerage. This way you can save on materials and maintain the aesthetic appearance of the room.

There are two types of shower trays: low for a standing shower and with high sides for a semi-sitting shower. Usually the first option is chosen, since the second requires the installation of an auxiliary metal frame.

Pallet types

The optimal model is a built-in shower. Making it from tiles is a winning idea, but it’s better to place it in the corner of the room. So the walls will play the role of limiters on both sides, which will reduce construction costs.

Drain installation

To make a shower stall from tiles, it is important to adhere to the rules for arranging communications. How convenient and safe it will be to use the new product depends on this stage.

Significant work on communications equipment:

Installation of water supply. We are talking about pipes supplying cold and hot water. It is advisable to place the booth near the water supply outlet. If this is not possible, consider transferring communications. It is better to lay pipes in the wall or cover them with a box. They are often placed at the bottom to use the border as a shelf. An observation window must be left in it. This applies to all types of structures, since access to the water supply, valves and meter must be free.
Sewage sewer. High-quality water drainage is an equally important condition. For shower cabins, a drain hole is installed with access to the so-called ladder, which is a pipe located at an angle. It carries water from the sump to general sewerage. To prevent odor from entering the riser, make the hole in the pan higher than the exit to the sewer and ensure the presence of a water plug.

Drain device diagram

Be sure to create a slope of the floor itself. If this is not done, water will accumulate in the pan, and this is fraught with the appearance of fungus. In addition, when in contact with water, some adhesive compositions become wet.

Cabin placement

To make a shower tray, correctly determine the contours of the structure. This takes into account the location of other objects in the room, for example, a washbasin, toilet (with a combined bathroom option) or washing machine. Nothing should block the entrance to the booth.

For external fencing, erect a border. Do it in different ways. A popular method is casting concrete using formwork. In this way, a strong, durable and monolithic restriction is created, and of any shape: both straight and curly. You can use bricks or other block building materials bonded with cement mortar.

To prevent the spread of moisture, take care of waterproofing the floor and adjacent walls in advance. For this purpose, film flooring and bitumen coating are used. Finishing is required cement mixture surface of any type of structure. This will strengthen it, hide defects and provide protection from moisture.

Waterproofing using film flooring and bitumen coating

Make sure you have a protective screen:

curtain on a rod or thread;
plastic partition;
glass (triplex is best).

Such materials catch splashes of water and do not deteriorate when interacting with detergents, are not afraid of microclimate fluctuations, including temperature, and their appearance quite aesthetic. Moreover, they are easy to care for.

Surface finishing

The last stage of work is the lining of the cabin. Needs alignment concrete base Before laying out a tile tray, do not forget to protect it from fungus and mold.

The design of the structure is chosen according to your own preferences. The pallet can match the design of the walls or repeat the pattern of the floor. Sometimes it is isolated from the interior. You can only contrast the pallet itself inside the booth, and correlate the curbs with the already lined surfaces. A good option is to emphasize the shower area, when all the details of the stall, that is, the floor, borders and walls, are lined with contrasting tiles or, for example, mosaics.

Tile tray

The installation process itself does not differ from the traditional one. The main condition is to maintain the slope of the coating in the direction of the drain: just a few degrees per 1 m2 is enough. Place the corners very carefully. Special tiles are best suited.

Peculiarities

For shower tray When making tiles, there are several requirements that relate to the materials used in the work. Let's look at them separately:

Tile . It is best to choose non-slip ceramics for the floor. There are even tiles with a special relief.
Glue . Use waterproof mixtures. They contain a polymer filler. Suitable solution for swimming pools.
Grout . Buy now special compounds. Suitable fugue with the addition of latex, epoxy mastic or liquid glass. As a last resort, tile adhesive is used.
Primer . Increases adhesion and creates a protective film against moisture.
Antiseptic. Treat surfaces before and after the main installation process.
Sealant . To prevent leaks, treat joints with communications with silicone or acrylic.

If done correctly, you will end up with a durable shower with a unique design.

In the last article I told you how to make a shower tray out of brick. It is especially good if you need to make sides in the shower. But often the option of sides is not needed. In this option, you can make a shower tray from a “concrete pie”. This technology is especially valuable if you need to raise the height of the shower floor to a greater height.

Two options for a concrete shower tray

A shower tray made of concrete can be made in two versions:

The pallet is lifted from general level bathroom floors and make required quantity sides;
The tray is made at the level of the bathroom floor, without sides (the tray is in the floor).

For the drainage device use:

Shower drain;
Tray siphon;
Shower tray.

1.Sewage pipe D50; 2. Rough screed; 3.Waterproofing layer; 4. Finish screed; 5. Waterproofing mastic; 6.Tile adhesive; 7.Tile.

Single layer concrete shower tray

concrete shower tray diagram

Task

The option according to scheme 3 of a shower tray with a concrete “cushion” and insulation is more labor-intensive and includes more stages of work, so let’s consider it.

Stages of work on installing a concrete shower tray with insulation

Marking;
Waterproofing the base;
Pouring a concrete platform;
Insulation layer;
Sewerage with drain;
Formwork;
Waterproofing;
Filling the shower tray;
Side device;
Shower floor tile work;
Sealing joints between floors and walls;
Laying tiles on walls.

Tool

For work you will need:

Container for mixing the solution;
Drill with a mixer attachment for preparing the solution;
Rule;
Wide, medium and narrow spatula;
Half-grater;
Several paint brushes (for waterproofing and priming);
Primer roller;
Tool for tile work.

Material

Dry mixture M150 (or M200) for preparing a solution (for a “cushion”);
Expanded clay (for “pillow”);
Waterproofing liquid or rolled waterproofing material;
Dry mixture M150 (or M200) or “Rovnitel” is moisture-resistant for the main floor;
Primer or primer;
Acrylic sealant;
Tile adhesive;
Grout for tiles.

Start of work: Dismantling

Carry out all necessary dismantling work. The place for installing a concrete shower tray must be free of plumbing fixtures, the walls and floor must be free of old tiles.

Sewage supply

To install a drain from the shower, you need to connect a sewer pipe to the place where the tray is installed. PVC pipe D50. The sewer slope is 2 cm per 1 meter.

Shower marking

Marking the shower tray the most important stage works The marking task is to set the marks of the upper levels of the layers of the “pie” of the concrete pallet. First of all, the topmost level of the pallet is set, namely the tile level.

To do this, you first need to find the installation level of the pallet ladder. The basis for determining the level will be the level of the drainage pipes for the pan. The ladder must be higher than the level of the sewer pipes at a slope of 2 cm per 1 meter. It is more convenient to mark using a laser level.

The bottom of the exposed ladder will show the upper level of the concrete “cushion”;
The top of the ladder grille mount (cylinder with thread and platform at the top) will show the maximum permissible level tiles in a pallet.

Note: The fastening of the ladder grid can be trimmed every 4 mm. Therefore, the height of the concrete layer of the pallet can easily be varied within fairly wide limits.

Marking the edges of the pallet

It is important to correctly mark the sides of the pallet. Here, the marking is carried out according to the tiles used. A dry layout of the tiles is made on the floor, and the location of the side (or sides) of the future pallet is measured.

Markup result

As a result of marking, we obtain the upper level of the concrete “pillow”, as well as the maximum level of the floor in the shower.

Pouring a concrete pad

A concrete “pillow” for a pallet is made if you need to raise the floor of the pallet by more than 20 cm. To reduce its weight and reduce its cost, we make it from expanded clay concrete.

Note: Expanded clay concrete is a solution of CPS with the addition of expanded clay. On a bucket ready mixture a bucket of expanded clay is added. If the mixture is made from cement and sand, the proportions are: cement/sand/expanded clay/water: 1/3-4/4-5/1-1.5 (10 liter buckets).

Before pouring concrete, waterproofing work must be carried out. To do this, it is better to use liquid waterproofing mastic. It is applied not only to the floor where the pallet will stand, but also to the walls, covering the entire area where water hits the walls.

After the waterproofing hardens, we make the formwork. Any material at hand is suitable for formwork: board, plywood, even drywall. The formwork must be firmly secured with spacers. The joints between the formwork and the floor must be sealed with mortar or alabaster.

Before pouring, you can immediately make the sides of the pallet. They will serve as formwork.

Filling the “pillow”

The solution is prepared continuously to ensure continuous pouring of the concrete “pad”. A trowel or spatula is used to level the concrete layer.

Note: There is another option for pouring expanded clay concrete in small areas. An expanded clay pillow is made from expanded clay of the middle fraction just below the desired level. Expanded clay needs to be moistened. Next, the expanded clay pillow is spilled and filled with liquid DSP. The solution must penetrate into the expanded clay cushion, for which it must be periodically pierced with a stick.

Insulation layer

After the expanded clay concrete has dried, you can proceed to the insulation layer. For this, it is better to use extruded insulation 5 cm thick (it does not react with the solution).

Important! The concrete tray itself should not be connected to the walls of the bathtub. That's why concrete layer The pallet must be insulated from the walls using a so-called damper: a centimeter layer of solid insulation or a special damper film.

In the insulation layer you need to cut channels for sewer pipes and a place to install a shower drain.

The drain must be assembled and installed in place, while checking the overall slope of the drain.

Important! The ladder must be installed so that the tiles that will be laid on the bottom of the pallet are trimmed as little as possible around the ladder. This technique works well for laying mosaics. It is difficult to position the drain for tiles without cutting or trimming the tiles as in the photo.

Final filling of the shower tray

The best option for constructing the concrete pallet itself would be to use a leveler. The leveling solution contains a minimal amount of water and has a semi-dry consistency. This minimizes sealing of insulation joints.

Special attention Sealing of the insulation layer must be done when using wet DSP for final filling.

A layer of 200 micron polyethylene is suitable for sealing. Polyethylene is laid with an overlap and rises onto the walls.

Note. Eat important nuance in the final pour of the shower floor, this is the slope of the floor.

Pallet edge

The side of the pallet is made from:

Moisture-resistant brick (M-125) (fast);
Gypsum boards GGP hydrophobized (moisture resistant) (high side - convenient);
Can be filled from cement mortar with reinforcement (long and difficult).

concrete shower tray ready

Plastering works

The brick side needs to be plastered. At plastering works You need to constantly take measurements so as not to violate the measured distance for laying the tiles.

Tile work

Tiling work begins with laying tiles on the floor of the shower tray (shower).
After laying the floor, you need to seal the joints of the floor tiles and walls with acrylic sealant.
Next, the tiles on the walls are reported.

Conclusion

In this article, I showed the most complex homemade concrete shower tray. Although a pallet with heated floors would be more complex.

In other articles I will continue the topic of do-it-yourself shower trays. Questions can be discussed in the comments.

Video of a very simple DIY shower tray

The main stage of work when installing a cabin in a bathroom is installing a shower tray. You can do this yourself if you comply with the technological requirements.

The easiest way to install acrylic, ceramic or steel products is that you don’t need unique knowledge or complex tools. But with certain skills in construction and repair, it is possible to equip a bathroom with a concrete tray, refined ceramic tiles. The installation of a marble or cast iron shower tray must be carried out by specialists due to heavy weight products.

Choosing the right model

There are shower trays various forms– square, rectangular, with rounded edges. The choice here depends on the wishes of the owner. It is much more important to take into account the depth of the structure when installing:

In some cases, a waterproofed floor with drains for draining water acts as the bottom of the shower stall.

Pallets are also built-in and removable. This point must be taken into account during installation.

The thickness of the walls of the selected plumbing element is no less important.

Pallets with thin walls are made of acrylic and plastic. The advantages of such models include ease of transportation and installation, as well as a budget price. But thin-walled models have a number of disadvantages:

mechanical deformations from the feet of people washing;
surface cracking due to temperature changes;
need for a solid foundation.

The coating on steel pallets may peel off and rust stains may appear in damaged areas. Acrylic analogues are easy to scratch if, for example, you decide to wash your beloved dog.

Ceramic trays or those made from brick and concrete are more durable. The most durable are cast iron models.

How to choose a shower tray, video:

Which base for a pallet is better?

Installation of a shower tray can be done in various ways:

on a brick foundation;
on plastic support parts;
on a metal frame.

The base is selected depending on the model’s configuration and its technological characteristics. The need for a foundation is due to the fact that the drain hole must be located above the level of the sewer line so that the water drains well. Experts believe that the angle of inclination from the bottom to the entrance to the sewer line should be at least 3 degrees. If it is impossible to make a pedestal or lower the sewer inlet, you will need a special pump to pump out the water.

Most deep models are equipped with a special metal profile frame. But if the tray is thin-walled, the feet of bathers will quickly push the bottom between the guides, especially if the owners of the bathtub are not of fragile constitution. In these places acrylic options Through cracks may even form. Therefore, deep, thin-walled pallets also require a stable foundation.

Installation of a ceramic shower tray is possible without a foundation, directly on a flat floor without an installation gap.

Here it is necessary to monitor the quality of laying the sewer lines so that the drain hole is higher than the outlet and the water quickly leaves the container. The element itself is attached to the floor using glue or cement tile mixture.

Cast iron elements are usually simply placed on the floor. Their height is sufficient for reliable drainage into the sewer. The same applies to stone products. But there may be a problem with the siphon. It will have to be installed directly on the floor surface or connected to a flexible unit and hidden in a specially equipped niche in the wall.

Let's look at how to install different types of foundations when installing shower trays.

Metal or plastic frame

If you still choose this type of base, it won’t take much time for installation. The main actions here will be:

Leveling the legs using a building level.
The installation of the shower tray itself.
Connecting to the sewer and fixing the drain hole.

An extruded polystyrene board can be placed under the bottom to insulate the area. In the same way they use polyurethane foam. This is especially important when installing steel pallets. It will also help reduce the sound of falling water.

Once the installation of the shower tray is complete, you need to check its stability. If the pallet wobbles or creaks, additional supports from steel corners or brick pillars.

To secure the thin bottom and give the structure stability, you can make removable formwork and pour concrete. The installation of the shower tray will be carried out on the resulting pedestal. This method has disadvantages: it is impossible to check and eliminate the leak. Replacing a sewerage unit and installing a siphon is also quite difficult. Alternatively, you will have to use flexible connections and hide the siphon in a niche in the wall.

This great solution for most pallets, which eliminates any deformation and extends the life of the plumbing fixtures. The main thing is to choose the place where the siphon will be installed.

In this case, the bricks are laid not only around the perimeter of the product. Otherwise, the bottom will bend over time. In structures with legs, to eliminate this drawback, additional support is provided in the center. Because there is a bulge there, similar model to flat brick foundation you won't install it. It is necessary to provide a recess for this tubercle.

The correct technique for creating a brick foundation is as follows:

Installation of the shower tray is carried out after 3 days, when the masonry is completely standing.

If the pallet is semicircular, at the bend the bricks are laid out in a fan with the butted edges facing outwards.

A welded frame made of metal corners 20 by 20 mm. It is installed between rows of bricks and secured to the floor with dowel nails. Acrylic from friction metal surfaces It is worth protecting with a layer of insulating rubber glued to the metal.

A deep tray on a high foundation will require the creation of a ladder to the entrance to the shower stall. Steps can be made of concrete or bricks and covered with tiles. The walls behind the pallet are finished with tiles or other waterproof material. The tile adhesive must also have excellent moisture resistance.

DIY installation of different types of pallets

Each shower cabin comes with instructions for assembling it. Additional tools and materials are also indicated there. But if you decide to choose your technology, then you should take care of selecting suitable tools and consumables. In most cases you will need:

building level;
screwdriver;
marker;
drill and hammer drill;
pliers;
adjustable wrench;
sealant.

If necessary brickwork, you will additionally need a mixture for the mortar and a trowel.

Preparatory work

Regardless of the type of tray, it is necessary to prepare the bathroom for its installation. To do this you should:

waterproof the floor and walls;
check the possibility of connecting to the water supply system and sewer lines (pipes should have convenient outlet openings for easy connection of hoses);
Close all pipe openings with plugs during installation work.

An important point is the electrical wiring. It must be hidden and moisture-resistant, with a minimum number of twists. For the connection, you should choose a three-core copper wire with a cross-section of 2.5 mm and double insulation. It is laid directly from electrical panel with installation of a residual current device.

Installing an acrylic shower tray (step by step instructions)

Most modern shower cabins are equipped with acrylic trays. They are easy to assemble:

Now you can attach the decorative part of the pallet or do this during the installation of the entire cabin. To check the correct installation, you should carefully stand in the pallet and feel how stable and reliable it is.

After completing the work, check all fastening areas, as well as the water supply and drainage. If there is a leak somewhere, tighten the connections a little more. If necessary, additional insulation work is carried out.

Installing a steel shower tray (step by step instructions)

Such structures are made by stamping. They do not involve making the legs integral with the body. The installation of a steel shower tray is carried out on a special stand: a profile laid around the perimeter of the bottom, to which threaded bushings are welded. The legs are screwed into them.

For correct installation necessary:

Strengthen steel pallet can be done using supporting pillars, for example, made of brick. They must match the height of the structure. Otherwise supporting elements can push through the bottom.

To make a steel pallet look aesthetically pleasing, you can cover the stand with bricks and tiles. It is placed with a slight slope towards the tray so that water does not accumulate.

Installation of a steel shower tray, video:

Installing a shower tray made of ceramic or cast stone (step-by-step instructions)

Such products are heavy and massive, so they are installed on the floor without any stands or legs. They sometimes have niches for a siphon, but more often the structures are monolithic, with only one drain hole. In this case, you will either have to use a flexible drain system or install the tray on a pedestal. The last option requires the following:

We waterproof the floor and cement screed on top of it.
We create brickwork around the perimeter of the product so that the height allows for the placement of a drainage system.
We connect the pan with the siphon, and the outlet pipe with its outlet pipe.
Installing a shower tray along with drainage system we carry it out onto a layer of cement so that the siphon and drain pipe are placed in the niches intended for them.

The front parts of the pedestal are covered with ceramic tiles or mosaic modules. Joints of products of any type are treated with sealant. If the appearance does not suit the owner of the shower stall, you can strengthen the joints with plastic decorative corners, which are fixed with glue or sealant.

How to veneer the side of a shower tray, video:

Creating a pallet according to individual dimensions (step-by-step instructions)

It is possible to create a shower tray with your own hands, without purchasing a finished product. The advantages of this option are: individual design. You can choose any shape, size and color of the cladding.

How to install a shower tray:

After final hardening, the surface is coated tiles, mosaic modules or other waterproof decorative materials.

How to create a pallet with your own hands, video:

What should I do if the shower tray was damaged during installation?

Most often, small chips and scratches occur on the surface acrylic products. Don't worry, such damage is easy to fix. With the help of a special restoration composition, it is possible to eliminate even through breakdowns.

To do this you need to purchase suitable composition V hardware store and follow the instructions:
Remove all installed parts from the pallet.
Find out the extent of the damage - whether it is a scratch or a through hole.
Drill holes at both ends of the crack slightly wider than the damage. They will not allow the crack to grow.
In the event of a through breakdown, a strip of fiberglass is glued to the bottom. Used as glue epoxy resin.
Cut off the edges of the crack sharp knife so that the composition penetrates better (cut off the chamfers), and fill it.
After the solution has dried, smooth the restored area with soft sandpaper to remove sagging.

Stone castings are restored in the same way.

Ceramic trays are difficult to restore. Even the strongest glue will not last long, and the structure, unfortunately, will collapse quite quickly.

In products made of steel and cast iron, the enamel most often suffers. If there are no through breakdowns, then eliminating the damage is easy. For this they use liquid acrylic with hardener. Or epoxy resin is applied, and liquid enamel is applied on top.

It is quite possible to install a standard shower tray with your own hands. However, if you want to create a shower unusual shape, or purchased an extremely expensive or complex model, it is better to seek help from professionals.

Good afternoon Tell us, step by step, how to empty a tray bath from the solution for shower corner followed by waterproofing and tiling.

Unfortunately, you did not provide information about your bathroom, which would help us give comprehensive advice. It would be necessary to know the design of the ceiling and floor with heights, the mark of the entrance to the sewer riser relative to the level of the finished floor (top mark), the distance from the shower tray to the riser. And understand what kind of pallet you want to make. Since we do not know any of this, we will have to limit ourselves to general recommendations, otherwise you will have to write a whole textbook for the forum, because there can be a lot of options. If you send detailed information, preferably with a photo, we can give more subject advice. So:

First of all, you need to decide what profile and configuration of the pallet you want to get.
- Today, a flat shower tray flush with the floor is in fashion (in trend, as creative and advanced people say). That is, there is no side; in the place where the shower stall or doors are installed, a slight slope (2% is enough) to the drain in the floor is simply made. If there are no doors, so that the water does not overflow beyond the pan, it should be deepened by 2-3 centimeters relative to the general level of the bathroom floor. This is enough for normal operation plum. In fact, this is how shower nooks are equipped in public showers: old Soviet baths and fancy modern fitness centers.
  Good glass, no tray or side, slight floor slope and stainless steel drain. Chic and comfortable
- Perhaps you want to get a standard shower tray with a side, but you prefer to make it monumental from concrete, not trusting Chinese fiberglass. This is also possible.
  Concrete pallet with side. Isn’t it easier (and cheaper) to buy ready-made steel or acrylic? True, a monolithic one can be given any shape
- Now you need to find out which option is available to you. You have the finished floor level, the top mark. If there is no floor yet, you will have to calculate it. There is (or is also not yet) a horizontal mark for the entrance to the sewer. It is advisable to enter the vertical riser not at a right angle, but with two bends at 45º, this will protect the pipes from blockages. In the floor you need to install drain. There are many on sale different models, but even the most compact one will take up at least 8 cm in height.
  Only this one horizontal ladder suitable if you are limited in height by the screed design. Height adjustment will simplify installation and forgive minor errors in determining the level
  
  Slope sewer pipe, which will go in your floor, should be at least 2 cm per meter of length. The diameter of the drain pipe is 5 cm. So you need to first purchase a ladder and clearly measure all the distances, taking into account the slopes. Starting measurements from the riser, get a mark at which it is possible to install the drain. If it is located below the finished floor, options A and B are available to you, above - only B.
  
  It is necessary to carefully measure the horizontal marks from the entrance to the sewer riser to the top of the ladder and make sure that it is possible to place the drain at the planned height. In the ceiling wooden beams it's easier to do this. Don’t forget, by the way, to then lay sound insulation insulation between the beams
  
  For option A, you also need to look at whether the sewer will fit into the floor screed and whether the height is enough. If we are talking about ground floors in a private house and work is just beginning, you have complete freedom of action.
- Decide whether you are willing to pay for a factory-made base for a tray built into the floor. It is a panel of warm but dense polyurethane foam 2.5-4 cm thick. By the way, it is waterproof and cuts well. The necessary slopes to the ladder have already been formed in it, and there is a hole. It is better to use a branded ladder, not cheap, but of high quality. If you wish, you can choose a simpler one, as long as the diameter fits. Similar bases for built-in pallets are produced by most famous manufacturers drainage systems and plumbing for showers, often supplied to order. A pan + drain kit made in Germany will cost 125-250 euros. Chinese products are also appearing, cheaper, but we cannot yet assess their level.
  The use of such a semi-finished pallet greatly simplifies installation. The pallet is lightweight, it can also be installed in a frame, wooden house, in the ceiling on beams.
  
  Under it you need to make a recess in the floor, having previously waterproofed the base (concrete, wooden structures). Don’t forget: if there are no doors, the depth of the recess should be slightly greater than the height of the pallet. The sewer should already be drained. After assembling the ladder and gluing the pallet, you can go to the sanitary silicone sealant. Use it to fill the gaps between the panel, walls and floor. It is also better to place the ladder on sealant. Ready: the base can be covered.
  
  Of course, an imported base costs money, but it is reliable and greatly simplifies the work.
- If you decide to do without an expensive device, you will have to monolith. We won’t describe the construction in detail, because we don’t know what’s under your tiles. But in any case, you must fulfill several conditions:
- Waterproofing should be given attention increased attention. Ideally it should be double. The first layer is a roll of bitumen-polymer, glued to the floor slab or concrete base on the ground. The second - cement-polymer, is performed on a finishing floor screed and on top of an already cast (and standing for at least three weeks) pallet. Let us repeat, it is cement-polymer, instead of conventional bitumen mastic or rolls of tiles will not stick properly. There are, however, imported bitumen compounds with high adhesion, but are a bit expensive.
  It would be best to carry out the treatment with an elastic two-component mixture, for example, the Belarusian-German composition Ceresit CR 166, which has a good price/quality ratio. Depending on the brand, such mixtures will cost 80-150 usd. Such insulation is extremely reliable and very durable, provided that the manufacturer's recommendations are fully followed during the work.
  
  If you do not think that your shower is worthy of such expenses and are ready to sacrifice quality in exchange for less expensive materials, waterproofing can be done with a cheap one-component mixture, for example, Ceresit CR 65. It must be applied with a spatula in two layers, there should be no gaps or unfilled shells
  
  Despite the fact that manufacturers allow the application of polymer-cement waterproofing with a roller and brush, use a spatula, the result will be better. And cover the drain grate with masking tape before starting work.
  
  Waterproofing is produced in packages of 25 kg, this is enough not only for the pallet itself, but also for screeding the floor of the entire bathroom. It is advisable to treat the walls above the pallet with the mixture. Pay special attention to the junction of the pallet and the wall; fill the gap (if there is one) with sealant or seal it with a special elastic tape (expensive).
- Cladding can be a bit tricky. You will have to provide a slope to the ladder. There won’t be any special problems with small mosaics, but it’s unlikely to be possible to lay large-format tiles without cutting them. The cut and fracture of the planes are formed from the corners of the pallet to the ladder. Elastic, moisture-resistant tile adhesive and fugue should be used. For example, Ceresit CM 14 glue (Ceresit CM 17 SuperFlex, if the floor is wooden) and Ceresit CE 40 aquastatic grout.

A shower cabin can be neither functionally nor aesthetically complete without a high-quality tray. Manufacturers understand this plumbing equipment, regularly updating their catalogs with more and more new models. But due to increased demand, the price of pallets is by no means small - not every consumer can afford it. That is why it is becoming more and more popular alternative option– building a pallet with your own hands. It won’t be difficult even for non-professionals to implement such an idea. Don't believe me? Then read how to make a pallet from tiles with your own hands and see photos confirming the availability of installation.

Preparatory stage

The first step is to decide on the location and dimensions of the pallet. Choose a location taking into account the specifics of communication wiring. When thinking about the configuration and dimensions of the pallet, focus on several factors at once. The first is the composition of the family: it is important to calculate the height and width of the tray so that the shower stall can be conveniently used by all household members - from children to the elderly. The second is safety: the shape of the product should be streamlined, without being too sharp corners. The third is the design and area of the bathroom.

Advice. For standard height The pallet is traditionally taken to be the height of one brick laid horizontally.

When the design and organizational work is completed, begin preparing materials and tools. You will need:

ladder;
waterproofing material (mastic);
cement and sand;
bricks;
roofing felt;

adhesive composition for finishing;
trowel;
spatulas: serrated and rubber;
grout;
sealant;
rubber hammer;
brush;
level and beacons;
screwdriver, screws and dowels.

If for some reason the floor in your bathroom does not have an initial cement screed, it needs to be done before everyone starts construction work. At the same stage, heated floors are installed, if there is a need for them.

Waterproofing and installation of drains

The first step in the actual installation of a shower tray is waterproofing the area. First, several layers of roofing material are laid on the floor - it should close all the cracks in the areas where the floor and walls meet. Next, the site is treated with waterproofing mastic - it must be applied in an even layer, like a primer. And finally, waterproofing tape must be glued along the joints of the wall and floor surfaces.

The next stage is installation sewer drain, which is responsible for drainage. Structurally, the drain consists of discharge pipes, a water inlet funnel, various sealing gaskets, a grate and a siphon that prevents penetration unpleasant odors to the bathroom. It is very important to securely fix each element to ensure the effective functioning of the water drainage system from the pan.

First, install the pipes on the already waterproofed floor, secure them tightly and connect them to sewer pipe bathroom Fill the site cement screed and straighten it out. When pouring cement, do not forget to provide a slope towards the drain - at least 10 mm. For proper filling, use beacons or guide rails.

Advice. Before pouring the second screed, seal the drain with mounting tape to protect the drain from the concrete mixture.

Arrangement of sides

When the screed is completely dry, begin constructing the sides of the brick pallet. The laying solution can be prepared from cement, sand and water in a ratio of 1:3:1. You also need to add a plasticizer - it is used for two purposes: to remove it from the solution excess moisture and increase the level of bonding building materials among themselves.

As for bricks, the use of both ordinary and silicate materials is allowed. But experienced experts recommend using red brick for arranging the pallet - it is highly resistant to moisture, so it will last longer than any other type of material.

Before laying bricks on the base, you need to fix metal mesh- it will strengthen the structure. Then proceed to installing the sides. When will you post it? brick structure required configuration and dimensions, leave it for two to three days. Whatever the shape of your tray, the protruding corner of the sides should be slightly beveled: this way you will protect yourself from impacts and from constantly touching the structure when moving around the bathroom.

Leveling and re-waterproofing

The pre-finishing stage of constructing a shower tray is the application of a self-leveling mixture and repeated waterproofing.

After the brick sides are ready and the binder has completely dried, apply a leveling mixture to the surface of the pallet. But do not overdo it with its thickness: after applying the mixture, the level of the platform should be such that the subsequently laid facing tiles was located at the same height as the ladder grating. Also, do not forget to make a small depression in the drainage area so that nothing interferes with the free flow of water.

When the floor is dry, waterproof it again: apply a thin layer of bitumen mixture to the surface and, if necessary, renew the special tape at the junctions of the wall and floor.

Advice. Do not neglect repeated waterproofing - thanks to multi-layer protection, you will protect yourself not only from deformation of the pallet, but also from flooding of the neighbors below.

Pallet lining

Unconditional plus self-construction shower tray - the opportunity to design the resulting structure exclusively to your liking. You can use tiles or mosaics of any shape and shade and in any combination. The main thing is that the chosen one finishing material was as moisture resistant as possible and had anti-slip properties.

Facing is carried out according to the following scheme:

Prepare the adhesive mixture. Please note that some compounds deteriorate quickly, so it is better to mix them in batches.
Start laying the trim from the far corner of the pallet: using a notched trowel, apply the adhesive mixture to the tile, apply it to work surface and press down lightly. Lay the rest of the trim in the same way. To achieve the most even seams, insert special crosses between the tiles.
Check each tile with a level. After leveling, finally fix the cladding by tapping it rubber mallet. Then remove any remaining glue with a damp cloth.
After finishing laying the tiles, remove the crosses and treat the seams - fill them with waterproof grout. Remove the remaining mixture with a dry cloth, and then carefully walk over the surface with a rubber spatula.
Treat all joints between the pallet and walls with sealant.
Cover the corners of the boot with special silicone corners.
When the grout is dry, wash the tiles.

In order for the tray structure to dry faster, try to reduce the humidity level in the bathroom to a minimum: turn on forced ventilation or heating radiators, or simply open the doors of the room wide.

Installing a shower tray made of tiles is not a quick procedure, but it is absolutely feasible even for a non-professional. Be sure that if you do everything according to the instructions and strictly adhere to the standards, you are guaranteed to receive not only a functional sanitary ware product, but also an attractive piece of bathroom furniture.