Many owners of private houses are interested in how to lay paving slabs. This finishing material is now very popular for decorating local areas. Paving slabs allow you to create not only ordinary masonry, but also a kind of multi-colored mosaic of elements irregular shape.
The main advantages of paving slabs
Not everyone knows how to lay paving slabs correctly. It's comparative new material. However, paving slabs have already become more in demand than the well-known paving stones.
Among the main advantages paving slabs properties such as:
- low cost;
- simple installation technology;
- durability;
- environmental friendliness;
- resistance to aggressive influence environment;
- variety of shapes and colors;
- the ability to create bright and original elements landscape design.
To lay a path or area with paving slabs yourself, you do not need any special technical skills or knowledge, only the ability to use ordinary tools. If during the installation process you strictly follow the procedure and try a little, everything will definitely work out.
How to choose a tile
Thick tiles (more than 60 mm) can withstand weight truck with a full body. These tiles are usually in the form of small bars. This gives the cladding additional strength.
It’s not difficult to figure out how to lay paving slabs correctly. The main condition for a novice master is to choose a small area for his first experiments. A garden path is best. It is better to choose one-color, square or rectangular tiles.
Marking the site and preparing the base
First you need to calculate the area of the path or site. It is calculated according to required quantity tiles You need to purchase material with a reserve of 10-15% in case of damage to the material. In order not to make mistakes when making calculations, you can draw a plan of the future site. This will make it easier to carry out the necessary calculations and calculations.
Curbs are required along the edges of the path. This will help maintain the integrity of the structure. The border should be several times thicker than the selected tile. It is necessary to lay tiles only on a properly prepared base; not only the appearance, but also the strength of the structure depends on this.
The right foundation under paving slabs To fulfill all necessary work The following tools will be required:
- shovels - shovel and bayonet;
- grinder saw;
- spatulas;
- rule;
- building level;
- roulette;
- rubber mallet or mallet;
- twine or cord, scaffolding;
- trowel;
- rake;
- container for preparing the mixture.
First you need to outline the location of the path or site. To do this, pegs are driven into the ground on both sides of the route. A cord or twine is tied to them. You need to walk along the marked area different directions to determine the correct marking and optimal location of the site or path. The markings can be adjusted during operation.
Drainage system
The technology for laying paving slabs with your own hands requires drainage work. On clayey, swampy soil with a high location groundwater internal drainage is required. To do this, during the excavation process, the required slope is formed, and drainage pipes for water drainage.
On dry soil, it is enough to arrange external drainage. To do this, paving slabs are laid on the path with a slope of 2 or 3° towards the curb. Some water will seep through the seams between the tiles.
Construction of the foundation
You need to dig a ditch under the foundation. The top layer of soil is removed to a depth of 20 cm. Remains of vegetation must be removed. The bottom must be leveled and compacted. If the soil is very weak, under future design A concrete screed is laid from paving slabs. This will strengthen the base and ensure the longevity of the path or area.
Concrete reinforced base under paving slabs Then the curbs are installed. A cushion of fine-grained (10-20) crushed stone or gravel is poured between them. Bulk material needs to be leveled and compacted a little.
Curbs on both sides of the path must be installed parallel. Interior space between them should accommodate the required number of tiles. In this case, it is necessary to take into account mounting clearances of 2-3 mm. Then a solution is prepared for concreting the curbs. Use cement grade M300 or higher and sifted sand. Proportion 1:2.
The gravel cushion at the bottom of the trench is filled with coarse wet sand, which must be leveled. Thickness sand pillow after compaction, the sand should be at least 3-5 cm. To control, from the top edge of the curb downwards, you need to measure 1.5 times the thickness of the tile.
Tiles are laid on top. If its position exceeds the desired level by 1 cm, the sand can be compacted. To do this, the finished pillow must be moistened generously and left for several hours. Pack tightly. After a day, you can begin laying the tiles. The main thing is that the concrete poured under the curbs is completely hardened.
Laying tiles on sand and crushed stone
The tiles are laid in clear, dry weather. Wind, rain, and dampness make the installation process difficult and can worsen the result, especially if the master does not yet have the necessary skills. The path is laid out in the direction away from you, stand on sand and gravel cushion during work it is impossible.
Before laying paving slabs with your own hands, you need to prepare the installation mixture. For it, take dry sifted fine sand and cement in a ratio of 3:1 or a ready-made composition purchased at a building materials store.
Laying tiles on a cement-sand mixture So that the path can be dismantled later, the tiles must be laid only on sand. The dry mixture or sand is poured to a thickness of no more than 4 cm; the pillow needs to be leveled. When backfilling, you can use guides made of reinforcing rods, tubes, etc. The mixture is distributed over the working surface with a trowel or rake and leveled using a rule.
If the path is narrow, sand is poured between the curbs and leveled with a trowel. Using a level you need to create a drainage slope. While working, the master moves along the length of the path, holding a bucket of sand and tools at hand. On a wide path, the dry mixture is poured along the beacons. The height of the beacons is reduced by 1 cm every meter of the width of the future path to ensure water drainage.
Aligning the base with beacons You need to pour sand on top of the finished masonry and use a hard mop to grout the laid surface. Instead of sand, you can use special grouting compounds. The procedure for working with them is indicated on the packaging.
Laying tiles on a concrete base
Preparatory work for laying paving slabs on concrete base are carried out in the same way. First, the tiles are laid on a work surface covered with sand.
To prepare the solution, use M500 cement. It must be diluted with water to the required consistency. It is better to mix the solution with an electric drill or construction mixer. Gradually add sand to the mixture of water and cement. It should be 4 times more than dry cement.
When laying on concrete, a strict sequence must be observed. The tiles are removed one by one from the sand cushion. You need to remove 4 elements of preliminary masonry at a time. The solution is applied to the vacant area. It needs to be evenly distributed. Having laid the tiles on top of the mortar, it is necessary to trim and lightly press down with a mallet. When laying, special wooden spacers are installed between the tiles to obtain the required gap. When the entire path or area has been laid out, the remaining mortar must be removed from the surface.
Some rules for laying tiles
In order for the laid material to be smooth and beautiful along the entire length of the path, it is necessary to lay out the initial row of tiles especially carefully. You need to stretch the line across the path, maintaining a drainage slope towards the curb. The first tile is installed 0.5 cm from the curb. IN longitudinal direction laying is controlled by level.
On the path, the tiles are laid diagonally and compacted with a mallet. A gap of 2 mm should be left between the elements. The laid out row must be carefully inspected and all errors must be corrected immediately. Usually it is enough to adjust the amount of sand under protruding or sinking elements. An evenly laid initial row is the key to ensuring that the entire path will turn out neat and beautiful.
Tamping will speed up the work of laying paving slabs If the masonry involves partial tiles, they should be laid out last. To correctly mark the cutting line, the tile must be attached to the installation site. A hacksaw is suitable for cutting tiles, but work will go very slowly. Therefore, you need to cut paving slabs with a grinder. A diamond disc is installed on it. You can use a special knife. You need to wear safety glasses when working.
Sealing seams and cracks
When the installation of paving slabs is completed, it is necessary to seal small cracks. To do this, you need to prepare a cement solution with high content liquid glass. This will make the structure resistant to aggressive environmental influences. A mixture of sand and cement or sand is poured into the assembly joints between the individual elements.
Sand for filling cracks and assembly seams Only clean ones can be used. A small amount of organic elements or salts will subsequently lead to the appearance of small flora on the paved area. Plants will spoil the appearance of the structure and reduce its strength.
Sand is compacted using a hose with a narrow spray nozzle. The procedure must be repeated several times. Bulk material is added each time. The density of filling the assembly joints will ensure the strength and durability of the entire masonry.
Options for laying paving slabs
Paving slabs allow you to create various shapes and ornaments in the local area. Can be used ready-made diagrams laying or come up with your own version of the design of the path or site.
The most common options for laying paving slabs:
- herringbone;
- network;
- chessboard;
- random mix;
- circular pattern.
Using multi-colored elements of different shapes, alternating installation options, you can create interesting compositions based on the principle of regular mosaics or puzzles.
Geometric laying of paving slabs It is better to perform figured masonry first in an area near the work site. This will allow you to correct individual errors or change something in advance. When work surface will be ready, the tiles are gradually transferred to it and laid in the required order.
To tile a round area, you need to make a primitive compass from wooden slats with pointed ends. With its help, a circle is drawn on the prepared area on top of the sand cushion. Next, the tiles are laid from the outer edge to the center of the site.
Use and care
A freshly laid paving slab path will be ready for use 2-3 days after all work is completed. To remove dust and debris, the path is usually swept with a broom and washed with a stream of water from a hose. Deep patterns with bright colors need to be cleaned more often and more carefully than regular masonry.
The sand placed in the tile joints is gradually washed away as the path or platform is used. Therefore, it needs to be topped up as needed. Damaged structural elements (for example, cracked tiles) are easily replaced with new ones.
Paving slabs are not resistant to mechanical stress, so it cannot be cleaned with abrasive powder. It is better to use sifted river sand.
Do not use strong chemicals to remove stains. A weak soap solution is sufficient. It is applied with a soft brush and then washed off with water from a hose.
In winter, snow and ice must be carefully removed without using metal tools. Can be used with rubber tip. This will save decorative tiles. To prevent the path from being slippery, it should be sprinkled with regular clean sand.
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The best way to design garden paths, local area or a car parking area - pave with paving slabs. It is beautiful, durable and comfortable. To ensure that such a coating brings only joy, it is better to entrust the laying of paving slabs to professionals. After all, if the technology is broken, the paving will quickly lose its attractive appearance, its parts will become unstable and unnecessary grass will sprout.
The Clean Reservoirs company offers services for laying paving slabs in Moscow and the Moscow region in suburban and summer cottage areas, sidewalks and squares, city streets and local areas. Our services can be used by individuals and legal entities Moscow and Moscow region(Khimki, Dmitrov, Istra, Moscow, Zelenograd, Solnechnogorsk, Krasnogorsk, Dedovsk, Dolgoprudny, Mytishchi, Balashikha, Odintsova, Lyubertsy, Zhukovsky, Podolsk, etc.). We accept orders of varying complexity: from creation garden paths at the dacha to large-scale objects of large square footage. All work is carried out in accordance with established requirements and standards, under the strict control of technologists. You can be sure of the high quality of services, because we provide a guarantee on work for up to 5 years.
How we lay paving slabs
- Preparing the base. We dig a trench at the site of the proposed paving of paving slabs. We install borders that are held together with a special adhesive.
- Surface preparation. Fill the excavation with at least 10 cm of gravel, and then compact the layer. If necessary, fill the surface with concrete. Then we lay geotextiles, which prevent the growth of plants and weeds. We pour sand on top and compact it thoroughly again.
- We install the beacons and begin laying tiles on them. For this we use a special mixture. We place the tiles loosely next to each other, and fill the resulting gaps with sand. Level the surface using rubber mallet.
- Operation of the coating. After rubbing the seams, some time must pass for the paving slabs to lock into place. For garden paths and courtyards, no more than 2 days are needed, for car parking – 4-5 days.
Advantages of paving with paving slabs
Paving a summer cottage with paving slabs is the best option in terms of price and quality. It is wear-resistant and durable material for paving, capable of withstanding significant loads. Laying paving slabs is ideal for garden paths, courtyards and areas near buildings.
Some more aspects of using paving slabs:
- Paving slabs have a thickness range of 30-80 mm. It is selected depending on the location of its installation: the higher the load, the thicker the tile should be.
- The strength and durability of the tile depends on the material it is made of. The most resistant ones are made of granite, marble or clinker.
- Paving slabs have great variety shapes and colors, which allows you to add different patterns and shapes.
- Laying paving slabs requires adherence to technology so that the coating lasts as long as possible.
- The cost of paving with paving slabs is lower than with paving stones. Often and consumables less is required.
Options for paving with paving slabs
Paving slabs give ample opportunities for the implementation of ideas, as it has a large selection of shapes and colors. Our specialists create a variety of designs and effects using tiles different colors and textures.
You can order original paving slabs in the following formats:
- "Geometric paving" - creation attractive design in the form of rhombuses, circles, checkerboards, leaves, honeycombs and many others.
- “3D effect” - is achieved by using paving slabs with a volumetric effect.
- “Chaotic paving” - at first glance, a random laying of tiles of different sizes ultimately gives the effect of artistic chaos and harmony.
- “Artistic styling” - the creation of original patterns and drawings based on a developed sketch.
Simple chain of cooperation
Cost of paving with paving slabs
The cost of laying tiles depends on the size and type of material. The Clean Reservoirs company offers the most optimal ratio of cost and quality of paving. We use only technologically advanced building materials and we provide a guarantee for all types of work.
We can calculate the approximate cost of creating a pond for you by phone:
7 926 530 04 60
Here are the estimated prices for laying paving slabs:
Well-maintained suburban area always pleases with its comfort. A paved yard and paths not only create ease of movement, but also prevent the growth of weeds, strengthen the soil surface, and get rid of dirt and puddles.
Do summer cottage plot comfortable and beautiful! Order the laying of paving slabs from the Clean Reservoirs company. We guarantee high quality works, affordable prices and the implementation of any of your ideas.
Our company carries out work in Moscow and in the Moscow and other regions.
Modern production technologies make it possible to produce material of any shape and color. The thickness of the elements varies from four to six centimeters. It is durable, aesthetic and practical material for the entrance to the house. Such a coating will faithfully serve for more than half a century if all the requirements for its installation are met. The technology for laying paving slabs on sand, the features of choosing the material and type of paving, the cost of the work are in this material.
Read in the article
Technology for laying paving slabs on sand and other paving options
The different purposes of the paved area dictate the variety of installation options. The technology for arranging light garden paths differs from arranging driveways and. In addition to the purpose of the site, you need to take into account the characteristics of the soil. Movable soil requires a stable foundation. If the area often suffers from elevation, you need to lay the tiles on a raised base.
In any case, the first and one of the most important stages is preparatory work. It is necessary to outline the boundaries of the track or area and remove top layer about fifteen centimeters of earth.
Advice! It is most convenient to mark the boundaries of the paving area using rope and pegs. The pegs need to be installed on close range one after another so that the rope does not sag.
A shallow pit must be carefully compacted and leveled. Another recess is made along the edge - a groove for installation.
It is better to line the bottom of the prepared area. It will not allow weed seeds that remain in the ground to germinate.
Advice! The height of the curb should not be higher than the main platform. Otherwise, water will accumulate on the site.
DIY methods for laying paving slabs: step-by-step instructions
Option 1: sand-based
A sand mixture is poured into the recess of the pit. The layer height is about ten centimeters. It is better to use coarse river sand. The mound should be leveled and thoroughly watered with water from a hose using spray nozzles. For each square meter you need to pour out at least ten liters of water. After watering, the entire area should be compacted again using an electric or manual compactor.
Important! Curbs on the site are installed and fixed cement mortar a day before paving.
Laying begins from the edge of the site. You should move forward along the already laid tiles. It is better to do this on your knees, otherwise you risk accidentally moving an already installed element with your foot. Between the paving fragments you need to leave a gap of about three millimeters.
Advice! If it is necessary to insert cut tile fragments, this is done after the main paving.
When the site is ready, fine sand is poured on top. You need to take a long-handled brush or broom and spread the mixture so that it fills the joints between the tiles. The excess is swept away. After only a day, the path is suitable for use.
Photo gallery of laying paving slabs on a sand bed:
Using a rubber hammer, we knock out individual tiles, lightly “embedding” them in sandy base 
Option 2: laying on crushed stone
As a basis, fine crushed stone with a fraction of no more than two centimeters is poured into the pit ( ideal option– 5-10 millimeters). The backfill layer is two-thirds of the height of the pit. The crushed stone is compacted. A mound of dry sand mixture is placed on top and a third of the height of the pit is placed. If the crushed stone is large, you can lay a geofabric before filling the second layer. It will not allow sand to spill through the stones.
Advice! Before cutting the tiles to fill the edges, you need to lay them down on the paving and mark the edges of the cut.
The gaps between the tiles are filled with a sand-cement mixture. The entire site is watered with water from a hose with a sprayer. In order not to spoil the appearance of the site, you must first sweep away the remains cement mixture and only then fill it with water.
Option 3: concrete base
For laying paving slabs in a dacha, in most cases a sand or crushed stone base is sufficient. The only exceptions are situations when the area or path is intended for driving or parking a car.
In this case, the prepared pit is first filled with a cushion of crushed stone. After compaction it is fixed. If the site is very large, you need to leave thermal gaps of half a centimeter every three meters. Stacked if necessary. Next.
Curbs are placed around the formwork. The tiles are laid on the screed. The gaps between the elements are filled with elastic grout.
How to choose tiles for your garden
As you can see, the technology of laying paving slabs on sand is the easiest way to pave beautifully and efficiently. But how to choose the right material?
Paving elements are manufactured using two technologies:
- Vibrocasting
Poured into plastic molds. The mixture is compacted on a vibrating basis. The resulting elements are smooth and may have different shapes, color and textured surface. The disadvantage of this technology is the high cost of products due to the use manual labor. In addition, the cast material is poorly resistant to atmospheric influences.
- Vibration pressing
The concrete composition is formed into tiles using. This material looks a little rough, but it can withstand increased mechanical loads, is not afraid of frost and is cheaper than cast tiles, as it is produced mechanically.
The price of tiles for paths in the country, depending on the type of manufacture and thickness
| Type | Dimensions, cm | Average price per square meter, rub |
Vibropressed  | 20×10x40 | 360-450 |
| 20×10x60 | 390-470 | |
| 20×10x70 | 420-500 | |
| 20×10x80 | 490-550 | |
| 20×10x10 | 600-740 | |
Vibrocast  | 50×50x5 | 380-440 |
| 30×30x3 | 300-380 | |
| 40×40x5 | 380-440 | |
| 25×12.5×6 | 380-470 |
Paving elements can be made in a wide variety of shapes and colors. The most popular options:
Average cost of laying paving slabs per square meter in central Russia
Technologies for laying paving slabs on sand, concrete or crushed stone are available for home craftsman, but not everyone has time for such painstaking work.
If you are not sure about own strength, you can invite a master to lay paving slabs. The price for the work of such a specialist averages 500-900 rubles per square meter, depending on the complexity. It costs more to lay out shaped elements and create complex patterns according to a pattern.
Most popular drawings
How to lay the tiles depends on the wishes of the owner of the site. Features of the landscape and shape of the material. The design of the path or site should be organically combined with the general design and buildings. Here are the most common options:
It looks especially impressive if you use a combination different colors and sizes of paving stones.
It fits in a similar way. This is traditional and practical solution.
Collected from corner connections at right angles.
Involves the use of tiles square shape at least two colors.
Difficult to perform, but look very impressive. Especially if the drawing includes elements of different colors and shapes.
They can have not just regular shapes, but also all kinds of waves and bends.
This highest degree performance that requires incredible painstaking work masters
To do paving with your own hands, especially if this is your first experience, it is better to use the most simple diagram, which does not require the use of parts of different shapes and cutting of elements.
- If the tiles are too bright in color, tap the pieces together. A ringing sound means that the manufacturing technology is not broken. Blind - there is an excess of coloring solutions in concrete, which can affect the strength of the material.
- Stains on the outside of the tile indicate heterogeneity in the composition. This kind of material is not worth taking.
- For something beautiful, cast fragments are more suitable; for durability and strength, you need to choose pressed ones.
- Before work, you need to carefully inspect all paving elements for possible defects. If there are defects, use this material for cutting.
- Be sure to leave gaps between elements. Under scorching sun the paving stones expand and the entire masonry can become deformed.
- To reduce dust, when cutting, the tiles are first cut and then split. There is no point in sawing everything from start to finish.
- The paths are sloped for runoff and melt water.
- The advantage of laying on sand is that, if necessary, the platform can be disassembled and laid again. This is especially true if utility networks run under the site.
The eyes are afraid, the hands are doing
There is nothing difficult about paving yourself garden path or platform. This is especially easy to do if you lay the tiles on a sand bed.
Compliance with technology will allow us to produce durable and high-quality coating, which will last for several decades. Choose quality material and go for it!
For work, you will need the video instructions for laying paving slabs on a sand bed with your own hands.
For craftsmen who lay paving slabs with their own hands step by step instructions will help save the budget for arranging pedestrian paths and parking lots near the cottage. The technology is the same for tiles made of concrete and polymer materials. Work should be carried out in summer in the absence of precipitation.
This coating allows you to completely avoid concreting and other “wet” finishing processes, but only on soils with normal bearing capacity. If the site is located on a fresh embankment, undermining and problematic soils (for example, silty sand or pure clay), or has a complex topography, it is necessary to concrete the base to ensure a rigid underlying layer and uniform distribution of loads on the soil.
On sand, gravelly, rocky soil, sandy loam and loam, it is enough to remove the topsoil and replace it with non-metallic material:
- paths - sand;
- parking – crushed stone 5/40.
Crushed stone base of the parking lot.
To prevent mutual mixing of soil with inert materials, you should line the bottom of the pit with geotextiles and start this non-woven material on the side walls. It is necessary to compact with a vibrating plate layers 10 - 15 cm thick maximum, as in the photo below.
Geotextile layer.
A vibrating plate with an electric or gasoline drive will be needed in further stages in any case. Therefore, they either rent it or make it themselves. You will also need the following tool:
- rule - special, made of boards, ordinary plaster 1.5 - 2 m;
- rubber mallet - for laying paving slabs (TP) and installing curbs;
- level - a laser level is preferable, but a bubble level will also work, for difficult terrain– hydraulic;
- a hard brush – needed for filling the seams at the last stage;
- Angle grinder (“grinder”) – used for cutting cladding elements;
- cord – marking the route, slopes;
- trowel and shovel – adding and leveling sand.
Tool for paving TP.
Important! Crushed stone is placed in natural state, the sand is abundantly moistened, there is no need to spill it from a hose/bucket so as not to create with my own hands perched water in this technogenic layer.
On complex terrain, terracing is first done with retaining walls made of gabions or monolithic reinforced concrete. Otherwise, lateral soil movements will disrupt the geometry of the paths after just a couple of years of operation.
Even on flat areas, a slope of paving slabs is necessary, since the material is waterproof, and the gaps between the paving elements are not enough to quickly drain storm and flood runoff. It is advisable to install storm drainage trays between the curbs and tiles, and integrate rainwater inlets into the roofing under the vertical drains of roof gutters.
Paving technology
It is important for the home craftsman to understand that the quality and service life of garden paths depend entirely on soil conditions:
- clay soils swell unevenly, disturbing the geometry of sidewalks and parking lots;
- problematic soils settle over time;
- on slopes and without a curb edge, the tiles spread out.
To fix the base, the tiles will have to be completely removed.
When purchasing non-metallic materials, it is worth considering:
- in parking lots, a crushed stone fraction of 20/40 is preferable, depending on the intensity of traffic and operational loads, with a layer thickness of 30 cm or more;
- for paths, crushed stone 5/20 in a layer of 10 - 15 cm is sufficient;
- It is better to choose river or washed quarry sand with a minimum percentage of clay;
- when compacting with a vibrating plate, the compaction coefficients are 1.7 for sand, 1.3 for crushed stone, so when purchasing, the volume of the pit must be multiplied by these numbers, otherwise there will not be enough material.
Paving slabs must provide required quality the exterior of the paths and the durability of the coating. Therefore, cladding is chosen according to the following characteristics:
Hyperpressed paving slabs.
Important! Vibration-cast products are cheaper because they are easier to manufacture, have an original configuration, and reduce the finishing budget. Hyper-pressed tiles are difficult to split or damage; this option is optimal for parking lots that are serviced by snowplows in winter.
Vibrocast TP.
Marking and planning
Unlike load-bearing structures The marking of personal space is most often combined:
- Curvilinear and radius shapes are used to increase artistic value;
- straight routes are marked with cords using cast-offs;
- the roundings are outlined directly on the ground using patterns or large-sized compasses (a rod tied with a cord to the central peg).
When marking, the following factors should be taken into account:
Chernozem contains organic matter, which rots under the tiles and shrinks. Therefore, the loose topsoil needs to be removed, used in beds, in landscape design, or removed from the site. The resulting layout is called by professionals a “trough”, in which further TP paving operations are carried out.
Important! The roots of mature bushes and trees are dangerous for paving slabs, so they are either uprooted or pedestrian traffic routes are laid at a distance of 3 m from them.
Drainage and sub-base
The TP should be laid on a rigid base that has drainage properties, since part of the storm water is drained through the cracks between the tiles. However, natural drainage is not enough to cope with the entire volume of water in heavy rain and drain the roof drainage when there is a path near the house or when the blind area is lined with this material. Therefore, several conditions must be met:
If a topsoil layer of more than 40 cm is removed and a 6–8 cm thick TP is chosen for lining, the thickness of the underlying layer increases sharply so that the paths rise slightly above the adjacent soil. To save budget in this case, you can use cheaper materials in the lower level of the underlying layer than crushed stone, river sand - sandy loam or loam. They also need to be compacted with a vibrating plate to a similar surface condition.
The curbs (border stones) are much higher than the tiles (20 cm), so along the paving contour it is necessary to make a trench of the same width, 25 - 30 cm deep, in order to place the curb on the mortar layer.
Trench for curb
Important! Where the storm drains pass, another trench will be required, since the height of these elements varies from 13 to 41 cm depending on the design and material.
Installation of curb stones
Without curbs, sidewalks will lose their shape, as the tiles on the sides will “creep.” The curb stone must be laid along the cord, taking into account the longitudinal and perpendicular slopes of the areas to be decorated. cement-sand mortar. The ratio of ingredients is 1/4 (cement/sand, respectively. The technology looks like:
- the mortar is placed into the trench with a trowel;
- the curb is installed on it and pressed down with a mallet along the cord;
- outside and inside in 2 - 3 places the solution is placed in a slide on side surfaces border just below the sand layer on which the tiles will be mounted, as in the photo below.
Paving is possible within a day or two, after the cement stone has gained strength.
Advice! Regardless of the size of the storm drains, it is better to install them along the curbs along with them at the same stage. These elements are also installed on a solution that requires time to harden.
Tile paving
There are methods for laying TP on cement-sand mortar (for use in difficult conditions), dry mixture (1/5 cement, sand, respectively) and on clean river sand. Practice has proven that when adding cement to a dry mixture, the developer additional benefits does not receive, but the maintainability of the coating sharply decreases and the finishing budget increases. Therefore, in 80% of cases, paving slabs are installed on dry sand using the following technology:
Advice! Installation curb stone at the ends of the tracks is not always possible. To prevent the spreading of paving elements in such an area, the last two rows are mounted on a cement-sand mortar.
Methods for connecting TP to the ground and screeds.
The nuances of laying paving slabs
Problems with paving usually arise when designing curved areas. The simplest option on radius paths is to lay rectangular elements, as in the bottom photo:
- the tile is oriented with the long side in the direction of travel;
- work starts from a smaller radius;
- each element is shifted relative to its neighbor;
- transverse and vertical seams are arranged in a wedge.
Rectangular TP on turns.
If the developer has chosen a collection of tiles with complex configuration(for example, “clover”), the paving technique changes radically:
- the seams are shifted at 45 - 60 degrees along the length of the tortuous section;
- the surface is filled with solid elements;
- pieces are laid near the curbs.
Less commonly used is the “Beam” technology, when a rectangular-format TP is oriented perpendicular to the curbs.
At complex radius intersections and large areas, the direction of the seams can be changed to increase the artistic value of the composition.
Decorating a complex radius intersection.
Thus, it is easiest and cheapest to pave paths, recreation areas and parking lots on the site on sand with cast or vibropressed paving slabs along straight routes. On radius sections, the above recommendations should be taken into account. For problematic soils, a rigid concrete base layer should be made.
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When beautifying the local area, many owners often wonder what to cover the paths, front and back yard, recreation area... Paving slabs are perfect for these purposes. Functional coating has no equal in landscaping. The price of the material is far from fabulous, and laying paving slabs with your own hands is quite simple to do. So, the design of paths and areas on the site will not cost too much, and at the same time it will be a worthy frame for the garden and decoration of the local area.
Variety of colors, shapes and textures
This allows you to create a harmonious ensemble, combining all the elements of the site into a complete picture, and embody any design and architectural ideas.
Thanks to their aesthetic appeal and excellent performance characteristics, paving slabs are indispensable in landscape design
Environmental friendliness and comfort
Paving slabs do not emit harmful volatile substances when heated and does not soften under scorching heat sun rays. Sand-filled tile joints allow excess moisture to seep out after rain, preventing the formation of puddles.
The tiled path does not disturb the natural need of plants on the site for water and gas exchange
Easy to maintain and durable
Paving slabs – perfect coverage in frosty winter conditions, it has high strength and low abrasion.
At high-quality installation tiles can last more than 15 years
Both the technology for laying paving slabs and their subsequent care are quite simple. If the coating is damaged, it is always possible to restore the area by selecting and replacing just a few tiles.
In order for the paved paths and areas on the site to become not only an original addition to the landscape design, but also to serve well for many years, when carrying out work it is important to take into account a number of basic points on how to properly lay paving slabs. For example, depending on the location and purpose of the coating, paving slabs can be laid either on mortar or on sand or crushed stone.
To arrange garden paths and recreation areas, it is enough to use a sand and crushed stone “cushion”
Tile laying work step by step
At the stage of preparation for laying paving slabs, it is extremely important to correctly wide range product select products and necessary tools, which will be simple and convenient to work with. When choosing a tile, you need to focus not only on taste preferences, but also take into account performance characteristics material. So, when equipping a recreation area or a covered carport, you should ask the manufacturer whether the tiles are capable of supporting heavy structures or are designed only for human weight.
Attention is paid to the surface roughness, the shape of the product: are there any adjustments, will it need to be trimmed?
To carry out the work you will need the following tools:
- trowel;
- wooden or rubber mallet;
- manual rammer;
- metal or wooden pegs;
- cord-order;
- building level;
- I-beam or pipe of any diameter;
- watering can or watering hose with sprayer;
- rake and broom;
- M500 cement and sand.
To determine the number of tiles and raw materials for the base, it is necessary to think through the layout of the site, taking into account the location and size of its paths and platforms.
One of the basic rules for laying paving slabs is the need to arrange paths with a slight slope of 5 mm per meter so that water can freely flow from them into wells or onto lawns.
Arrangement of the base
From reliability base surface The success of the entire construction directly depends. When arranging the base, stakes with notches are hammered along the edges of the location of the future path at a height of 5-7 cm, at the level of which the cord is pulled. A layer of turf, stones and debris are removed from the construction site.
In order to lay any paving slabs with your own hands, you must first carefully prepare the base
To level the surface of the outlined area, in elevated places the excess layer of soil is removed, and in depressions, holes and basins, on the contrary, it is added. The base, leveled with a rake, is carefully compacted. When working with soft soil, it is advisable to moisten the leveled soil surface with water before compacting. Careful compaction of the base will prevent uneven settlement of the sidewalk.
The depth of the base is calculated with a margin of a couple of centimeters, taking into account the fact that shrinkage always occurs during compaction. On average, it takes from 20 to 30 cm to lay a layer of sand and the tile itself.
After excavating the soil, the front side of the tile should reach the desired level
The entire surface of the future path is given a transverse, longitudinal or longitudinal-transverse slope. At this stage of arrangement of platforms and paths, work on laying communications is also carried out. Laying geotextiles before filling with sand will prevent the growth of weeds between the tiles.
Creating a “pillow” from sand or crushed stone
Sand can be laid on the prepared base layer of soil, which will not only increase the stability of the sidewalk, but will also act as drainage system. The poured sand must be leveled with a rake and watered until puddles form on its surface. After just 3-4 hours in sunny weather, the “pillow” can be given a smooth, even shape using a profile, which can also be ordinary pipe or beam.
To level the surface of the sand layer, you can use inch PVC pipes
The pipes are placed like rails at a distance of 2-3 meters from each other. The gaps between them are filled with sand to the same height, ensuring a flat surface throughout the entire area.
To give greater strength to the coating, paving slabs can also be laid either on a crushed stone base or on a mortar. To do this, you need to prepare a dry sand-cement mixture in a 3:1 ratio. The mixture is laid out in an even layer on the base, and the screed is performed using a channel. When working with “difficult” soils, it is advisable to use a combined installation consisting of a layer of cement-sand mixture and concrete.
Installation of paving stones
Before laying the paving stones, it is necessary to pull the cord along the chamfer. It is better to start laying paving slabs with your own hands from the curb. The first row is laid out strictly along the cord. The tiles are laid in the direction away from you.
The “bricks” must be placed in such a way that they fit tightly together
This will avoid increasing the width of the seams. Using crosses will make it possible to set equal intervals of 1-2 mm between the tiles. If the tiles lie unevenly, you can use a trowel to remove or add a layer of sand under it and then compact it again.
It is necessary to level paving slabs using a building level and a mallet. Upon completion of the tile laying work, the seams are covered with a layer of cement-sand mixture and watered with water.
To make the path more neat and attractive appearance, tile joints can be “rubbed” with quartz sand
If the tiles do not fit well with other buildings or elements of landscape design, you can trim its edges using a grinder.
Upon completion of work, debris and remaining sand are swept away from the finished path. Installing the border with M100 liquid mortar will prevent loosening of the tiles and “creeping” of the path.
Video master classes with installation examples
In the future, it is enough just to renew the sand washed out by water in the seams of the paving stones. A path decorated with paving slabs will be an excellent decoration of the site.
