Sidewalk laying with your own hands. High-quality laying of paving slabs with your own hands. What you need to install tiles

It is impossible to imagine the infrastructure of the city without a road surface. Until recently, asphalt was considered the most common surface. But from temperature changes it cracks, from exposure to sunlight it melts. With the advent of new technologies, paving of squares, pavements, roads with paving slabs has become popular.

Not a single dacha, a personal plot is complete without pavement paths, parking for cars is laid out with it. Laying out the sidewalk path yourself in the country is not so difficult. The main thing is to know the rules of laying, the technology of its installation. Today we will tell you how to lay paving slabs.

Before describing the installation technology of the sidewalk, let's dwell on the advantage of paving stones.

Advantages and disadvantages of finishing material

The paving slab has a number of advantages:

Sidewalk Disadvantages

• During frosts it is covered with a layer of ice.
• With improper installation, the possibility of its subsidence.

Types of paving stones

According to the manufacturing method

Depending on the methods of making paving stones the following varieties are found:

• vibrocasting
• Vibropressed
• Granite

Let us dwell on the characteristics of each separately.

Clay more expensive, resembles tiles.

It is strong due to the addition of granite chips or other binder material to it.

Before starting the process of laying paving stones, we will check its quality for any chips or cracks. Lay it on the mixture tightly to each other.

With a rubber mallet, knock on the paving stones, achieving its best connection. You need to lay the tiles yourself.

To saw off paving slabs, use an angle grinder, you can grinder with a power of at least 2 kW.

Having laid out the sidewalk, we fall asleep on top of the cement-sand mortar.

Let's fill it with water.

Now we put the border. Roem grooves for the curb. They should be slightly wider than the curbstone itself. The curb is placed in order to keep the paving stones on soft ground, to prevent it from getting off it. In addition, the curbstone equalizes the edge of the laid tile. It can be laid both before laying paving stones, and after.

The border should be flush with the tiles, maybe a little higher. First, we put a 5 cm sand pillow, wet the sand, compact it. Pour concrete mortar into the bottom of the groove and set the curb stone very quickly until the mortar has hardened. The gaps between the laid tiles and the curb are filled with mortar.

How to lay paving slabs on a concrete base

Concrete serves as a stronger base for paving stones. A huge amount of heavy equipment can pass through it. From this, she will not sag, will not crack.

Cement-sand cushion is a movable base, and concrete is a solid base. Therefore, it is much better to trim paving stones on a concrete base. It does not need to be tamped down, like parts of pillows.

The concrete screed hardens, forming a flat base. But concrete blocks the way for water, preventing it from seeping into the ground.

The sand and gravel cushion passes water down through the pores. The soil absorbs it.

Concrete screed does not let rain water through. It accumulates in the seams between the tiles. When frost hits, the water under the paving stones and between the seams turns into ice. The ice block with all its force presses on the coating, lifting it. The pavement may develop cracks along the edges. Therefore, before pouring a concrete screed, make drainage. You can create rulers, point moisture collectors or make a slope.

To properly lay paving slabs on a concrete base, you need to fill in the screed.

We mark the site for concrete. We put the pegs and pull the threads at an angle of 5 degrees. We remove the sod with a depth of 25cm. In the resulting groove, cleared of seeds and leaves of plants, we fill the crushed stone with a layer of 10-15 cm, making a slope. Ramming.

Through each square meter with a height of 15-20 cm, we make drainage holes for water to drain. After the concrete has hardened, we fill them with crushed stone (rubble passes water).

We lay the formwork from boards 40 mm thick. To strengthen it, we put pegs. For pouring the base, a concrete mixture is used: cement (1 part), sand (3 parts), crushed stone (1 part). A concrete mixture 3-5 cm thick is poured onto a crushed stone pillow.

When the concrete hardens, a reinforcing mesh is laid, and concrete 5-10 cm high is again poured on top. After 2-3 days, paving stones can be laid.

We will tell you how to properly lay paving slabs with your own hands on a concrete base.

We dig a groove for the curb. We take into account the slope of the paving. We mix the cement-sand mixture 1: 3. We put a layer of 3-5cm. We put a curbstone on it, driving it into the solution with a mallet. When the mixture dries, fill the cracks with sand, soak with water.

Before laying the paving stones, we fill in the cement-sand mixture 1: 6, level it with the rule, ram it with a vibrating plate. We pour a layer of 10 cm of the mixture, put beacons, level it with the rule. We lay the tiles, leaving a gap of 5 cm between them for expansion. Sprinkle cracks with sand and fine gravel, spill with water.

How to lay paving slabs on the blind area

From the house we measure the distance to the curb. We mark the paths with the help of pegs and a cord. We remove the soil to a depth along the height of the curb stone, adding 2-4 cm. Pouring concrete for the curb. We put it. Ramming.

We pour crushed stone under a slope. We put marking boards 3-6 meters thick 20-40mm. Reinforced mesh on top. If the site is small, you can do without fittings and boards. Fill it with concrete mix. When it hardens, we make a dry cement-sand mixture 1: 6 and fill the base. We put tiles on it. We pour water from a watering can. We pour the same mixture on top and sweep it into the cracks. We pour water. Where water drains through the pipe, a concrete drain can be laid.

Laying of polymer paving slabs.

Plastic tiles are the same polymer. The rules for laying polymer tiles are the same as for laying conventional paving slabs.

Its styling features are:

How much does it cost to lay paving slabs and its price in the market

To lay paving slabs, the price of work is from 450 rubles per square meter. For the preparation of a concrete base - 750 rubles, a sand and gravel cushion - 570 rubles per square meter.

Today we told you and showed you a video on how to lay paving slabs. We will be glad to see a photo of your laid path or area in the country .

Paving slabs in the design of the territory of a private house is always a winning option. Work on laying it is not cheap, but this is not a reason to give up the dream. Learn how to lay paving slabs with your own hands - embody the chosen design, saving a decent amount.

Arguments in favor of paving slabs

Advantages of paving slabs:

• Large selection of colors and shapes;
• Reliable and durable;
• Easy to install;
• Creates a neat and well-groomed look.

This type of decoration is very attractive - the whole yard is transformed, and the design possibilities are completely unlimited. You can lay out any pattern you like, using colors, shapes and paving methods.

Choice of clinker tiles

The laying of clinker tiles or clinker bricks looks especially beautiful. Even one batch of this material has different shades due to firing, which allows laying unique platforms and paths. The laying of such bricks is also called clinker paving stones. Retro style is always relevant and looks very solid.

Laying - step by step plan

The only disadvantage of paving slabs is the high cost of both the material itself and the work on its laying. But if you study the technology of the case, you will see that there is nothing complicated about it. Laying paving slabs with your own hands in a small area is an interesting activity that saves the budget.

Tools for the job

The set of tools and devices for work is quite simple:

• Shovels;
• Rake;
• Rubber mallet;
• Wooden boards;
• Corners and channel;
• Level;
• Bulgarian;
• Master OK;
• Homemade rammer;
• Construction fishing line or nylon thread;
• Steel bars.

This entire set can be found in any garage, so there should not be any difficulties at the stage of selecting tools.

Expendable materials

Having prepared all the materials, you can proceed to the practical part.

Planning and marking work

Laying paving slabs begins with a layout on paper. In order to realize your design project, you need a diagram of exactly how each element will be located. This is a color scheme and the way you are going to lay the tiles - in rows, in a circle, etc.

After that, the preparation of the territory and marking begins, the technology of which requires the use of steel rods, a strong thread and a level. For DIY work, this set is enough to outline the contours of the site, heights and slopes. Pegs (rods) are placed in the ground, and the thread helps to mark the height. It is necessary to outline the slopes so that the water leaves the house. If you lay the tiles in this way, you will protect the foundation from moisture, but you should not make excessively sharp slopes and fractures.

Bedding preparation

Now you need to decide on the removal of excess soil, since the tile laying technology involves the installation of a litter (pillow) under it. Excavation is done in such a way as to bring the entire surface, together with the litter, to one level. For curbs, you need to dig appropriate trenches.

How to make a bedding:

• With dense soil - a layer of sand of 5-20 cm;
• With loose soil - a layer of gravel 10-15 cm.

Experts recommend even on dense soil to arrange bedding using gravel and crushed stone. This will help to avoid deformation of the paved surface. If you put a tile on a poorly prepared surface, subsidence is not ruled out.

As a pillow for laying clinker or ordinary tiles, it is best to use a triple bedding:

• Geotextile (optional);
• layer of coarse gravel;
• Small gravel;
• layer of sand;
• Sand-cement dry mix.

Layers of gravel and rubble are carefully compacted, covered with sand and spilled with water. The last step is repeated until the sand stops shrinking. Properly executed technology will create a reliable foundation for any masonry. Professionals use special vibrating plates for ramming, but doing the work yourself can get by with a simple rammer made from a handle and heavy tiles. The use of geotextiles is not necessary, but it prevents the germination of plants.

The last layer for laying is a dry mixture of cement and sand, which can be bought, but it is cheaper to make it yourself. To do this, you need to take cement and sand in a ratio of 1: 5 and fill it as the last layer of bedding by 3-4 cm. The easiest way to distribute this mixture is with a rake, and level it with wooden boards and a channel.

Border

The border helps to give the entire site a clear geometry and a complete look. In this capacity, larger tiles are sometimes used. The border keeps the entire structure from spreading in different directions, especially when it comes to small areas.

It is correct that the tile is placed not lower, but 3-5 mm higher than the curb.

The curb elements themselves are installed on the M100 liquid solution, the sides are spilled with this composition and covered with sand.

masonry

The main task when laying tiles is to minimize the gaps between the elements. It is correct to work diagonally, laying each tile close to the previous one. The whole process takes place away from you, without disturbing the even layer of sand with cement.

Laying tiles can only be started a day after placing the curb.

A mallet will help put each slab in its place, and if it does not lie down as it should, then you need to lift it and add sand and cement with a trowel. Upon completion of the paving of the entire territory, it is necessary to adjust the position of the tiles, which have become out of level.

For the final compaction of clinker or stone blocks, it is recommended to use a rubber-coated vibrotamper. This stage will give the surface an ideal look, however, this is not a mandatory stage, but it is desirable.

It often happens that some elements will have to be cut with a grinder, especially when the seme requires complex lines. But it will be correct to lay all the whole tiles first. It is not worth cutting by eye, you need to clearly draw a line, attaching each element to its intended place.

Final stage

After eliminating surface defects, all cracks are filled with a carving mixture of sand and cement. Excess must be washed off with a hose with a spray nozzle, and the cracks should be moistened well. The mixture between the tiles can sag a lot, then it needs to be added a little more. Such thoroughness is not in vain, because the joints take on a considerable load. Therefore, do not skip this step, even if you are doing your own styling for personal use. It is important to use clean sand, not contaminated with dust, impurities and salts. When filling cracks with dirty sand, the site may begin to overgrow with weeds.

Immediately after laying, it is impossible to walk on a paved surface - you need to wait 2-3 days.

Whatever tile you choose, by doing the work yourself, you will save a good amount. This is much better than saving on the quality of the material, limiting your desires. Paving stones made of stone or clinker tiles look great, creating a stylish design. The paving technology for different materials does not differ, therefore, according to the described scheme, you can lay any tile with your own hands.

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Paving slabs firmly occupy a leading position among building products used for pavement on city streets, squares and individual plots. Indisputable proof of such popularity is available in any city, village and private courtyards. In this article, we will consider how to lay paving slabs on a concrete base.

Most often, tiled flooring is arranged:

• on sidewalks and squares;
• around administrative buildings, offices, shopping, sports and entertainment complexes, railway stations, airports, educational institutions and other places with high traffic;
• in public parks, lawn and garden paths on private plots;
• private car parking areas and parking lots for large equipment;
• in the improvement of suburban areas.

Main types of products

Depending on the manufacturing methods, the following varieties are distinguished:

• vibrocast;
• vibropressed;
• hyperpressed;
• polymer sand.

The composition of paving slabs usually includes sand concrete with the addition of granite chips, limestone, shale or rubber crumb. Less often, basalt chips are added.

• sawn paving stones, having all edges even;
• sawn-chopped with an even lower and upper edge;
• chipped, with uneven edges.

In the first two types, the smooth upper surface can be heat treated, which makes it non-slip.

The most common square paving stone with sides of 10 cm and a thickness of 3 to 10 cm.

In what cases is it necessary to lay paving slabs on concrete

The following can be used as a base for tiling:

• crushed stone or gravel-sand pillow;
• concrete, reinforced with steel meshes or individual rods, composite reinforcement or vibrated fibers to increase strength.

Tiles can be laid on existing concrete screeds or on newly arranged ones.

Although in the first case the work is much easier and faster, laying tiles on concrete is necessary to ensure a stable and durable coating in the following cases:

• the presence of soils with increased susceptibility to shrinkage at the site of work (recently filled embankments, dusty sands, peat);
• heaving clay soils, characterized by uneven swelling in some areas;
• a concrete base for paving slabs is arranged when significant loads are applied to the coating, for example, a parking device for a car;
• when cladding on existing solid concrete bases, when their dismantling is impractical and is highly labor intensive (the blind area around the house, existing concrete pavements, floors in garages and outbuildings). The decision whether to lay paving slabs on concrete is made after a thorough examination of the existing old concrete pavement. Laying on old concrete allows you to obtain significant savings on building materials, protect the existing coating from further destruction and significantly improve its appearance.

Advantages and disadvantages of laying pavers on a concrete base

The concrete base for laying the cobbled pavement has the following advantages:

• high strength and resistance to the application of significant loads and mechanical stress;
• durability;
• installation of tiles on a concrete base minimizes the risk of shrinkage;
• ease of implementation, allowing laying paving slabs with your own hands;
• there is no need to use complex expensive technical devices;
• resistance of the base to chemical influences, washing out with water, temperature changes;
• on a solid concrete base, the process of leveling tiles in a single plane is much easier to obtain a clear rectilinear shape and a perfectly flat surface
• the absence of failures caused by poor-quality tamping of the base;
• environmental friendliness of paving tiles.

Existing cons:

• the technology of laying paving stones on a concrete base is more complicated than on sand and gravel pillows;
• the need for a reliable water supply system. Leaking through the seams in the coating, the water will remain between the concrete base and the tiles, and when negative temperatures occur, it can swell and even split the paving stones. To avoid this, paving stones are laid with certain slopes, point water intakes are laid in concrete, storm systems are arranged;
• a concrete base for paving stones is more expensive than a simple pillow of crushed stone and sand;
• in case of violation of the technological process, already after the end of the first winter, coloring of the concrete base may occur.

What requirements should paving slabs meet?

When used for paving any types of products, they must meet the following requirements:

• when laying tiles outdoors frost resistance ≥ 200-t cycles;
• compressive strength ≥ 30 MPa;
• water absorption by weight ≤ 5%;
• abrasion during annual operation ≤ 0.7 g/cm 2 ;
• the purchase of products must be made from the same batch, since in different, even from the same manufacturer, the tiles will differ in geometric dimensions and color saturation;
• environmentally friendly cleanliness of products, when used both for outdoor work and for indoor use with a block flooring in warehouse and utility rooms;
• lack of porosity on the surface;
• strict observance of geometric dimensions with evenness of all faces;
• absence of internal and external cracks, as well as chips;
• naturalness and uniformity of staining.

The technology of laying paving slabs on a concrete base

The following methods of paving on a rigid base are distinguished:

1. A dry mixture of 1 to 5 cement with sand is poured over the concrete base, the thickness of such a dry solution is taken up to 5 cm. Due to the difficulty of creating the necessary slopes for water drainage, a slope of 2 to 5 degrees is created in the process concrete foundation devices. To prevent moisture from lingering under the tile, sections of a polymer or asbestos pipe are vertically laid in a concrete screed, 1 pc each. for every m2.
   After the concrete mixture has hardened, the top of the pipes is cut off at the level of the top of the concrete and the holes are filled with crushed stone of small fractions. Laying paving stones starts directly from the curb, after laying 4 elements, a check is made to maintain the specified level using the building level. Ensuring the quality of the fit is carried out with the help of a rubber hammer, with a light tapping, the tile is sunk into a mixture of cement and sand or, if necessary, lifted with a dry mix (carving) or a cement cushion. With this method of paving, labor costs are significantly reduced and the costs of materials and labor are saved. Laying is done in front of you with movement on an already paved surface. Minus - the need for a thorough compaction of the mixture, and then the finished cladding.
   Ramming can be carried out with vibrating plates, and in their absence, a piece of thick wide board can be used. The method is the most maintainable, as it allows easy replacement of individual damaged tiles.
2. On mortar, widely used for paving large areas. The cement-sand mortar is applied to the base with a layer of up to 3 cm to the reach area by the master and leveled with a notched trowel.
   Laying paving stones on concrete using such a “wet” technology is first carried out with whole tiles, taking into account the desired pattern, all the mortar is removed from the unpaved areas with trowels, the cut tiles are installed on a fresh mortar after the main one has solidified under the solid tiles. Compliance with the required slopes and flatness of the coating are checked using a level and a rule.
   The tile in all methods is laid with equal gaps (5 mm), the resulting seams in both of the above methods are covered with gartsovka or simply sifted quartz sand and spilled with water. Movement of people on the laid surface is allowed no earlier than a day later.
3. Bond tiles to concrete using a special construction adhesive. With this method, it is possible to create the necessary slopes only on a concrete base, since the glue is spread with a very thin layer (from 5 to 10 mm) on the surface of a small area (≤ 1 m 2), since its curing time, indicated on the attached instructions to application, small. For the same reason, paving slab adhesive is diluted in small quantities to avoid it from setting.
   The seams are filled with the same glue, or you can use the carving, as in previous cases. The hardened special construction adhesive provides a strong and reliable connection with concrete, so this method is used quite often, but replacing a damaged element without its final break will not work.

Step-by-step instructions for paving on a concrete base

Composition and sequence of work:

1. Breakdown of sites and paths on which paving is planned, with fixing the markings with wooden or metal pegs. The boundaries between the pegs wake up with lime or chalk.
2. Removal of the fertile soil layer with the arrangement of an earthen trough, taking into account the location of reinforced concrete curbs or curbs. The depth of the trench for the curbs depends on their height, the top of the curb fence, to ensure drainage from the paving surface, should be 2 cm below the top of the tile and rise above the level of the lawn.
3. Installation of curbs or curbs. A strong cord is pulled over the hammered pegs at the height of the curbs, taking into account the observance of the necessary longitudinal slopes. To collect water flowing from the tiled floor, close to the curbs, it is recommended to provide trenches for laying storm system trays. Reinforced concrete elements are installed in trenches on a compacted sand base with a small layer of lean concrete or mortar laid on top of it. The fixation of the elements is carried out with wooden pegs and pouring the concrete mixture.
4. Concrete foundation device. The soil in the earthen trough is carefully rammed and covered with geotextiles to prevent the germination of weeds. The concrete is laid on a compacted bed of sand or gravel ≥ 10 cm thick.

In some cases, curbs are installed by masters after concreting the base. This option, when performing work independently, is not recommended for execution. To protect the edges of the sites from soil shedding and create a concrete base with smooth edges, formwork is mounted from boards 40 mm thick, which will have to be carefully unfastened. If the curbs are installed immediately, then they themselves will serve as formwork. The advantages of this option:

• there are no costs for the purchase of materials for formwork;
• saves time for its installation and subsequent disassembly;
• the pouring of the concrete mixture will be carried out without seepage into the gaps between the boards;
• additional fixation of curbs in the required position.

Concrete is poured no earlier than one day after fixing the curbs. The break can be used for reinforcement (tracks that will not be driven by vehicles and heavy equipment can not be reinforced). The thickness of the concrete is assumed to be 15 cm in the absence of reinforcement and 20 cm in the presence of reinforcement. In the presence of moving heaving soils, the thickness can increase up to 40 cm.

Reinforcement is carried out with meshes connected from steel or composite reinforcement with a diameter of up to 10 mm and cells from 15 to 20 cm. The meshes are located at the top, at a distance of about 5 cm from the top of the concrete, with laying on concrete linings. It is possible to perform pouring in two stages: lay a layer of concrete about 10 cm, carefully level it, lay grids on fresh concrete and pour the concrete mixture to the required mark.

When pouring large areas, every 3 m it is necessary to arrange expansion joints from boards laid across the entire thickness of the concrete. On the paths, such seams are arranged every 6 m. Before hardening, the concrete boards are removed, and the resulting seams are filled with hot bitumen.

1. How long does it take to lay tiles? Concrete will gain the minimum required strength in about three days, so it is impossible to start work earlier. A suitable laying method is selected, if the pavement is highly permeable or if it is planned to drive vehicles and heavy technical equipment onto it, then it is preferable to paving tiles on cement mortars or building adhesives. If there are obstacles on the area facing (sewer manholes, flower beds, drainage holes, etc.), they are outlined with whole tiles.
   Before completion of work, the final design of the junctions of the desired configurations is carried out with trimming the tiles using a grinder with a circle for concrete or a circular saw. At the end of the laying, the seams are filled. Walking on a paved surface, no matter how damaging the edge of the tiles, is impossible for about 3 days. If necessary, mandatory passages can be made by laying on the paving surface of plywood sheets.
2. In conclusion, after 3 days, construction residues and debris are swept away, after which the entire surface is washed with water under pressure from a hose.

Laying tiles on a concrete pavement

Blind areas around buildings are usually made up to 1 m wide. First, a survey of the condition of the blind area is carried out, after which the following operations are performed:

• concrete is cleaned of dirt, the existing cracks in it are cut;
• the entire surface of the old concrete is poured with a 2 cm layer of cement mortar;
• the boundaries of future paving are marked with the driving of pegs;
• the location of the curb along the edge of the site is planned, the top of the curb should be located taking into account the implementation of a slope away from the building of 2 cm for each linear. m and below the top for paving stones by 3 cm. Then a mark is marked on the base equal to the sum of the height of the tile and the thickness of the preparation under it, to which a strong cord is attached, the second end is tied to pegs at the planned height of the top of the curb;
• according to the arranged marking, a trench is being developed for the curbs, then an earthen trough is being developed between the edge of the blind area and the curbs;
• further work is carried out in the manner described above when constructing a concrete base and paving with paving slabs.

When performing work on their own, the cost of paving is reduced by at least 2 times. Additionally, how to properly lay paving slabs, you can read in the technical literature or consult with experts, this will help to avoid damage to expensive materials and ensure the durability of the coating.

The owners of summer cottages and country houses in their possessions want to create an atmosphere that will please the eye and promote active recreation. Gone are the days when a plot of land was perceived exclusively for growing agricultural products. The beds have made room for a bit and have given way to gazebos, green lawns where children can frolic, as well as beautiful garden paths, which are both pleasant and comfortable to walk on.

Cobblestone paths are undoubtedly the best looking and most functional, but when site owners start considering prices for paving services, all interest often disappears. But in vain. In this article, we will try to prove that nothing is impossible in such a process as laying paving stones with your own hands. Step-by-step instructions will help readers of our portal to bring this process to life.

What is paving stone? What is it like?

Paving stone comes from the word block. Granite, basalt or other hard rock was previously split into fragments (bars) of approximately equal size and shape, then a coating was collected from them - paving stones, which is why it is called chipped. Such technologies are still being used today. Such coatings look very interesting, although the surface can hardly be called perfectly even and laying requires a highly skilled craftsman. Over time, due to the passage of a large number of people and passing vehicles, the surface wears out, polishes naturally and becomes smoother. It is these paving stones that are loved by tens of millions of tourists visiting the old cities of Europe, paved more than one hundred years ago.

The next step in the development of pavement coatings was the use of sawn stone, when all the bars have the same geometric dimensions. Such paving stones are also called full-sawn, since all faces have been processed. It became easier to lay such stones, roads and sidewalks became smoother, it became easier to walk on them. And now sawn stone blocks made of natural stone are used most widely, even despite its considerable cost.

Another type of paving stone is chipped-sawn paving stone, when a stone blank is first sawn into blanks of equal thickness, and then split into pieces of the desired size. Sidewalks and paths look very advantageous, where full-sawn and chipped-sawn paving stones are successfully combined.

Also in the 19th century, clinker paving stones were produced in Germany, obtained from natural slate clay, from which bars of the desired size and shape were molded, and then they were fired in a kiln at high temperature. This technology is still simpler than cutting or splitting natural stone, so clinker paving stones began to be produced in large volumes. It is still produced today, as it has proved its worth. Some clinker sidewalks have been successfully used for more than 150 years and are not going to be “retired” at all.

Prices for paving stones

paving stones

In the modern world, with the development of building technologies, a good replacement for natural materials is made - concrete pavers. It can be called purely concrete with a very large interference, since in addition to high-quality cement and mineral fillers, it contains a lot of polymer additives that increase strength, wear resistance, frost resistance and also allow you to paint paving stones in any color. This gives unlimited scope for the realization of any idea for the design of your site. Concrete paving stones can be made in any shape, so all path roundings, transitions and various other curvilinear elements can be laid out without time-consuming pruning.

Concrete pavers can be vibrocast or vibropressed. The second is preferable, since its operational properties are much higher. Manufacturers' statements that concrete paving stones are in no way inferior to natural granite or clinker ones are correct only in part, at least due to the fact that artificial paving stones have not yet passed the test of time. The authors of the article do not want to offend any manufacturer or seller of concrete pavers. If, after a ridiculous 150 years, we are shown the pavement in good condition made of artificial stone, which is laid today, then we will sincerely apologize for our words.

What are the advantages and disadvantages of paving stones?

Residents of cities built not in the 20th century, but much earlier - in the 18th and 19th centuries, have seen at least once how old paving stones peep out from under the "peeling" asphalt pavement. A reasonable question arises - why the more "young" asphalt "lives" much less than the road surface that our great-grandfathers and great-great-grandfathers made. And this fact is not uncommon. It turns out that a well-laid paving stone can serve as a bearing base for other coatings.

According to historical sources, even in ancient times, not all cities could afford paving stones, but only with a solid budget, since this coating was very expensive even then. It is very expensive even now. But it is too early to write off paving stones. Despite the fact that such a coating of roads and sidewalks is very expensive, fortunately, it will please our eyes for a long time to come. Why does humanity stubbornly continue to use paving stones, what are its advantages?

• The pavement coating is very durable, wear-resistant and frost-resistant.
• Due to the fact that paving stones are always laid on a drainage cushion, water will never accumulate on the paths from it.
• Paving stones are always easy to repair, because you can partially disassemble it and then reassemble it. You can also change individual elements.

• When the soil moves, no cracks form on the paving stones.
• Paving stones do not melt in the heat like asphalt and do not emit vapors of various petroleum products.
• Paving stones look very nice. They testify to the good taste and wealth of the owners.
• For laying paving stones, the use of special heavy road equipment is not required, that is, all work can be done independently.

If paving stones are such a wonderful coating, then why not pave all the roads and sidewalks with it, and continue to live and be glad that there is enough for our lives, and let grandchildren or great-grandchildren solve possible problems. There are still disadvantages to paving stones.

• Paving stone is a very expensive material. Pavements of roads and sidewalks made of asphalt or concrete are much cheaper.
• Laying paving stones is also one of the most expensive, as it requires serious preparation of the base and skilled labor. It takes much more time to build a road from paving stones than from other materials.
• Paving stones require good arrangements, as excess water will simply wash away the base.

• Paving stones have a large mass, therefore they are prone to subsidence, especially if the laying was carried out in violation of technology.
• Driving a modern car on paving stones is a dubious pleasure, and in wet or frosty weather, the surface can be very slippery.
• For reasons "unknown" to science, for some reason, women who walk in heels do not like coatings made of chipped paving stones.

Nevertheless, the owners of country houses and summer cottages should seriously consider the use of paving stones for paving yards or arranging paths in the garden. And if you do it yourself, then the money saved will more than cover the cost of acquiring the material. However, you can even make paving stones yourself, which you can read about on our portal.

What is the difference between paving stones and paving slabs?

If we consider various sources, then this issue can be very confused. When some say that paving stones are only natural stone, others argue that this is not the point, but in size - paving stones are much thicker. We propose to clarify this issue, for this we propose to consider the following table.

Prices for paving slabs

paving slabs

The typical thicknesses of paving slabs or paving stones are shown horizontally, and the greatest length is shown vertically, because tiles or paving stones can be not only square, but also rectangular. If the ratio of the maximum length to width is less than or equal to four, then we can say that this is paving stone. In the table, such ratios are indicated in red-brown color. If the specified ratio is more than four, then such products can be attributed to paving slabs, these ratios are highlighted in blue cells.

Paving stones are superior to paving slabs in terms of their bearing capacity. Obviously, if you put a 160*100*62 mm paving stone on the sand and hit it with a KAMAZ wheel, then nothing will happen to it - it will simply be pressed deeper into the sand. And if you take a 420 * 420 * 62 mm tile and place it in the same conditions, then most likely it will crack. It turns out that with an equal thickness, the fracture strength will be higher for paving stones.

Paving slabs are a reliable, high-quality material that compares favorably with its direct competitors - asphalt and paving stones - in ease of installation, dismantling, environmental friendliness and price.

A variety of installation options and a wide range of paving slabs will allow you to design the site to your taste, fully preserving its individuality through the use of various patterns and color schemes. High-quality laying of paving slabs largely determines not only the architectural appearance of the site, but also the durability of paved surfaces. The laying technology in a small area is not particularly difficult, therefore, having familiarized yourself with the progress of work and having prepared all the necessary materials, you can safely proceed to self-laying.

What tools and materials will be needed for masonry

Trowel, metal or wooden stakes, cord, building level, rubber mallet, wooden mallet, watering hose with diffuser, rake, broom, profile, manual tamper, channel, sand, crushed stone fraction 10-20, 20-50 or gravel, cement M400 , M500 or dry plaster mixture, geotextiles, paving slabs for paths 50-60 mm thick, for parking lots - 70-80, curb stone.

Paving slab laying technology step by step

Planning

At this stage, you should decide on the future site for laying paving slabs with your own hands and create its drawing plan. From the existing assortment, we select the necessary types of curly paving elements, select the laying scheme and color mosaic. We apply the dimensions of the site to the created drawing plan and, based on this, calculate the required number of paving slabs and the volume of materials for the base: sand, crushed stone or gravel, cement.

Marking paths and playgrounds

With the help of a tape measure, wooden or metal pegs, cord or construction twine, we mark the paths and the tile laying area. Be sure to walk around the marked area to check the convenience of location and use. We make appropriate adjustments if necessary.

Foundation preparation

It is a carefully prepared base that is a guarantee of the quality of laying paving slabs, so this stage of work should be approached with special attention. A well-made base will not allow the track or platform to sag over time, thereby ensuring durability for the coating.

First of all, we remove the old coating, if it was, and remove the sod to a depth of 15-20 cm. We make sure that there are no roots or flying seeds of plants. Although water can seep into cracks, it is still best to plan for water flow. If the soil is very clay, it is desirable to arrange drainage in the deepest part of the trench. In order for water to flow to the edges, we make transverse and longitudinal slopes. Regardless of whether the tile is laid on a liquid mortar, dry mix or sand, a crushed stone or sand cushion is always used as the base. To strengthen the base, in some cases, a concrete screed can also be made on the sand and gravel mixture.

First of all, at the same level and at the same height, we lay and compact crushed stone or gravel. On a compacted base, we construct an intermediate layer of sand, in a compacted state, the thickness of which should be 3-5 cm and be such that the paving slabs rise from the desired coating height by about 1 cm before compacting. Geotextiles can be laid between the layer of crushed stone and sand, which will provide free flow of water, but at the same time will not allow sand to wake up in a layer of rubble, making the base more durable and durable. In non-rocky soil without the arrival of vehicles, it is permissible to backfill the covered surface with slightly moistened coarse sand 10-15 cm thick, without the use of crushed stone. The layer of sand is richly wetted with water. Ramming on a sunny day is done after about two to three hours, and on a cloudy day the next day.

As the top laying layer, you can use a ready-made dry mix or a self-prepared cement-sand mixture in a ratio of 1 to 3. We fill the mixture with a layer of 3-4 cm. To make it easier to maintain the same thickness throughout the area, you can use tube guides. With a rake, evenly distribute the mixture over the marked area. We make a screed with a channel to a flat surface.

Laying tiles

Tiles should be laid away from you so as not to disturb the prepared surface. Laying should preferably be done diagonally, laying each new tile in such a way that it adjoins the previous one as closely as possible, which will help to avoid increasing the thickness of the joints. A gap between the tiles of 1-2 mm for subsequent filling with a dry mix or sand is quite enough to create a durable and reliable coating. We tamp the laid tiles with a wooden mallet. If the tile does not lie quite evenly, gently place sand under it with a trowel and level it again with a rammer. After laying, the protruding paving elements are leveled with a rubber mallet to the building level.

If the planned paths and platforms have uneven shapes or curly elements are used, the tiles will have to be cut, but this should only be done after laying the entire whole tile. Paving slabs are cut with a special knife or an ordinary grinder with a concrete disc. Before cutting, we must apply the tile to the future installation site and draw a line along which we will cut off the excess parts. The installation of a pedestrian curb will help to give the site or path an accurate geometric shape and evenly fill the unfinished areas with sawn-to-shape tiles. To install a curb along the edges of a tiled platform along a stretched cord, we dig a trench of the required size and depth so that the top of the tile exceeds the top of the curb by the height of the chamfer. We expose the border to the liquid solution M100. We spill the sides of the curb with a solution of M100 and fill it with sand.

Having laid the tile, we check the site for bulges and irregularities. Having eliminated the defects, we sprinkle all the seams with a dry cement-sand mixture, sweep away the excess and moisten the mixture well in the gaps from a hose with a sprayer. If the mixture in the seams has sagged a lot, pour a little more mixture into the gaps between the paving slabs. This is a very important point, since sand properly distributed over the joints will take on the loads that fall on the surfaces of adjacent tiles, making the coating harder and more reliable. The sand that is used to prepare the dry mix for filling the gaps between the slabs must be clean, without organic impurities and salts that can provoke the appearance of vegetation. It is advisable to walk along the paved path no earlier than 2-3 days after laying the tiles.

Like any other coating, paving slabs require appropriate care. To make it pleasing to the eye, it should be cleaned regularly. Gray tiles are less whimsical to care for, but colored tiles will have to be washed from time to time. In winter, metal tools cannot be used to clean snow and ice from tiles. Metal crowbars and shovels can damage the glossy surface of the tile. To prevent erosion of the tile surface, it is strictly forbidden to sprinkle the paths with salt-containing abrasive mixtures. You can replace them with clean river sand. Also, paving slabs are not friendly with varnishes, paints and other chemicals.

How to lay paving slabs: laying methods

How the paths and platforms laid out with paving slabs on the site will look depends solely on your imagination and skill, because even the same elements can be used in various variations.