Furnace wells chimney from a metal pipe. How to make a chimney in a private house with your own hands: design options and their implementation. Video: Types of chimneys

The chimney in a private house is most often built invisible to the eye. This can be done at the planning stage of building a house. If there are several chimneys in the house, then they are combined into one or two devices.

The device of a steel chimney in a private house

The design of the chimney depends on functional features devices for which they are intended. The complexity and configuration of the chimney depends on their location and power.

Chimney types:

ventilation,
gas outlet,
smoke.

Ventilation systems

main function ventilation pipes is that they help to remove polluted air masses from the room.

Originally made brick ventilation chimney

ventilation ducts in without fail should be in those places where the room is least ventilated. It is especially important to place such pipes in the kitchen area, bathroom, toilet.

Gas exhaust systems

Gas chimney pipes are used if the house uses gas system heating. They remove combustion products outside the premises, and thus ensure the safety of using the heating system. Pipes must be able to withstand a variety of impacts harmful substances. As soon as the combustion products enter the chimney, they immediately react with the moisture that is already in the chimney. As a result, an oxidation process is carried out, which can cause destruction or internal deformation of the pipe. Also, such a chimney helps to increase traction.

Scheme of the device and the design of the flue gas pipe

Chimneys

Chimneys are used when heating equipment is installed in the house, which works on solid fuel- it can be stoves or fireplaces. There are most of them in the house, it is for this reason that quite often they are combined into one or more.

device diagram and construction of a brick chimney

Chimney pipes

The chimney device is quite simple, it involves the use of special pipes through which the polluted air or combustion products are removed outside the premises.

Pipes are:

brick,
metal,
ceramic,
polymeric.

Distinctive features of a brick chimney

Although today very a large number of materials that can be used to build a chimney, brick chimneys have been very popular for many years.

brick chimney

This type of chimney has its advantages. It cannot be plastered inside, which will help save on finishing materials. It is also worth considering that the masonry of a brick chimney should have a seam of 1 cm. If it is recommended to use cement-lime or lime mortar indoors, then in the upper part of the building you can already use ordinary concrete mix for masonry.

Advice. In order to use a brick chimney in the house, it is necessary to make a more powerful foundation of the building - the brick will add an extra load to the walls of the building and to its foundation.

In addition to the advantages, there are also a number of design flaws. Brick due to its rough surface can accumulate dirt. That is why such a pipe becomes clogged with soot very quickly.

Since combustion products exit through the brick chimney, oxygen condensate is formed, from which the brick pipe is subject to destruction. It happens that a piece of brick breaks off and falls into the pipe. All this can significantly narrow the chimney channel and make it difficult for air masses to escape.

To ensure a long service life of a brick chimney, it is recommended to insert an asbestos-cement pipe inside. The gap between the brick and the pipe is filled with concrete mortar.

An example of using an asbestos-cement pipe

Ceramic structures

Ceramic pipes are ready-made structures for the construction of a chimney. They are sold in modular design. Its inner tube is made of acid-resistant, heat-resistant and durable ceramic.

Ceramic chimney pipes have a number of advantages and have a very smooth surface. Due to this, soot is not collected on it, which is formed as a result of the passage of polluted air masses formed during the combustion process.

The device of a ceramic pipe for a chimney

Like brick chimneys, ceramic chimneys are quite heavy. It is for this reason that it is worth using the foundation for the structure.

Metal chimneys

As for metal pipes for the construction of a chimney, they have recently become very popular due to their lightness. They also have a smooth surface, which eliminates the accumulation of soot. Accordingly, the air will pass much better.

Types of chimneys

To date, there are two types of chimney structures: a structure located inside the building and a chimney outside the house. They differ not only in the materials from which they can be built, but also in size and types.

Drawings and design of the internal and external chimney in a private residential building

Usually, in order to build a chimney inside the house, brick or ceramic pipes are used. On the street, it is more rational to use metal chimneys, as they are resistant to temperature extremes and are not exposed to moisture.

The chimney inside the house can also be done in two ways, more about this in the video

The flue can be used both in brick, and in a wooden structure. Chimney only wooden house must be properly built, as wood chars very quickly. There is special technology construction of a chimney in a wooden structure.

Construction of a chimney in a wooden house

Most often, in a wooden house there are several chimneys. But the number of such structures to a greater extent depends on the amount of equipment used in the house. The house must have a heating system with a separate chimney and may have a fireplace that also has a separate chimney.

All chimney structures in the house must be brought out on the roof of the building and made in compliance with all norms and standards.

Chimney in a wooden house

In order to properly build a chimney in a wooden house, it is necessary to draw up project documentation and contact specialists in this field who can correctly draw up a chimney project.

The life safety of all those living in the house depends on a properly built chimney, and the equipment itself will work better. The latter applies to gas heating boilers and pipes for fireplaces.

The chimney in a wooden house should only be in a vertical position. Of course, there is an exception to the rule. You can build it with a deviation, which from the vertical position is no more than 30 degrees. If it is required to bring the pipes outside, and for this it is impossible to do without transferring the chimney, then the size of such a transfer can be no more than 100 cm.

Options for building a chimney in a wooden house made of timber

As for the removal of the chimney on the roof of the building, it will largely depend on the type of roof and the type of roof itself.

Advice. When building a chimney on the roof, it is worth considering the direction of the wind, which is most common in this region. This is necessary due to the fact that if the chimney pipe is connected to a boiler for heating, then wind masses can enter the pipe, and thereby cause intermittent combustion of the fuel substance.

If there is, then the smoke exhaust pipe must be constructed with high quality. This will prevent smoke from entering the room, and allow it to go outside.

Recently, a chimney for a fireplace in a wooden house is a rather complex structure that uses the "pipe in pipe" technology.

The chimney itself consists of three constituent parts:

stainless steel pipes;
layer of warmth insulating material;
steel pipe.

Initially, a stainless steel pipe is wrapped with a heat-insulating material, which can be fixed to it with wire or any other material. After that, the finished structure is inserted into a metal pipe, which will have a larger diameter than the inner one.

Methods for arranging pipes for a chimney in a wooden house

In addition to this method of constructing a chimney, there is another way, for this a plastic stocking is used. Its main advantage is that it heats up very quickly and cools down quickly. It can also be used when it is necessary to make a fairly large number of chimney transitions.

A brick chimney requires more effort than using a metal pipe for this purpose. But this design looks much more prestigious and lasts longer. We will look at three types of brick chimneys: classic single, extended with vents and simplified. Each species has its own characteristics and advantages. The final decision is chosen by the developers, while taking into account the individual characteristics of the bath, design preferences, financial capabilities and the availability of professional skills.

For all types of brick chimneys, there are several general provisions, mandatory.

Height above roofing. Regulated taking into account the angle of inclination of the slopes, should provide counter fire safety and exclude the blowing of thrust by air turbulence from the ridge. If the roof covering is made of non-combustible materials, then the fire height requirements can be ignored, but the chimney should be warned against swirling. The recommended heights can be seen in the photo.

Manufacturing material. For most chimneys, ordinary red brick can be used. If you want, buy a refractory one, but it costs much more, and you should not expect a big positive effect from its use.

We recommend using refractory bricks only for laying the overhead pipe, in this place the highest gas temperature. The fact is that red brick can easily withstand temperatures up to + 800 ° C, and the temperature of the gases in the chimney is much lower. It is strictly forbidden to use silicate brick - during heating, it releases toxic gases into the air. chemical compounds. Such a brick can only be used for exterior finish walls.

An important requirement for all bricks is that the side surfaces must be smooth. The presence of irregularities and roughness increases the deposition of soot in the smoke channel, it will have to be cleaned much more often. A large amount of soot not only impairs traction, but can also cause ignition, and this is a direct risk of fire. During the insertion of the chimney, the internal channel must be immediately cleaned of the solution protruding in the seams. Use a damp cloth or sponge for this, achieve maximum smoothness of the inner surfaces of the channel.

Prices for refractory bricks

refractory brick

Masonry mortar. There are two options. Some stove-makers use only clay mortar, while others add a little cement to it. We are supporters of the second option, cement significantly increases the strength of the structure. But you choose, both types of solutions do a good job with their tasks.

Classic chimney

Consider structural elements classic chimney.

Bottom part

From the top of the stove to Receives very hot gases, fireclay bricks can be used for the channel. It is better to buy a gate ready in the store, there is no way - do it yourself. Shop structures are more reliable, they are made of ductile iron and do not deform during heating. Steel gates can be deformed as a result of steel tempering. The deformed gate wedges in the grooves, opening / closing is difficult. For laying the lower part of the chimney, it is recommended to use a clay mortar without the addition of cement.

Gate prices

It performs two tasks: it increases the resistance of the chimney to wind loads - it rests on the floor beams. In addition, the increased dimensions of the fluff serve as fire protection for wooden structures.

Riser

Part of the chimney from the fluff to the otter. The longest section, during masonry, the vertical position of all rows must be observed.

Special thickening above the roof covering. Traditional chimneys are made without the use of modern methods of sealing the exit above the roof, the increased size of the otter excludes the ingress of natural precipitation into the attic of the bath. To improve insulation around the perimeter of the otter, sheets of galvanized steel can be nailed.

Neck and headband

The length of the neck depends on the angle of inclination and the type of roof, specific dimensions take into account all the features of the structure. The height of the neck affects the stability of thrust, regardless of the strength of the wind.

- a decorative element of the chimney.

protective cap

Prevents rain and snow from entering the flue. The cap has another function. If no one uses the bath stove for a long time, then the birds can make a nest in the channel - the chimney will have to be cleaned. To prevent such situations, it is recommended to close the outlet with a metal mesh.

We can only give approximate dimensions of each element of the chimney, more accurate parameters must be calculated taking into account the architectural features of the stove and bath.

Stages of building a classic chimney

The presence of a brick chimney should be provided even during the design of the bath. The stove must be brick and always on a separate concrete foundation.

For most sauna stoves, a 250 × 120 mm channel is sufficient, this standard sizes red brick. For laying the chimney, you will need special bricks half the standard, they can be bought ready-made or cut off with a grinder with a diamond disc.

The thickness of the solution is not more than 1 cm, the thicker the solution, the greater the risk of cracking during thermal expansion. We do not recommend making such a complex chimney for a metal furnace; it is enough to install a pipe for it.

Step 1. Prepare bricks, tools and mortar. Measure down to the gate and fluff.

Step 2 Start laying from the bottom of the chimney from the stove, check each row with a level in all four planes. After three or four rows, clean the channel from excess solution.

Practical advice. The laying of the chimney can be significantly accelerated. After 2-3 rows of bricks are laid, fasten the ropes in them at the corners and pull them to the ceiling. Install the ropes strictly vertically, they control the position of the chimney. No more wasting time checking each row by level.

Step 3 Fasten the frame at the installation site of the gate. The installation of the frame should not disturb the position of the upper plane of the bricks, for this you need to select a recess in them according to the size of the gate frame.

Step 4 Continue laying until the beginning of the fluffing device. Count the number of rows that will have to be laid before the fluff reaches the right dimensions. At the same time, keep in mind that in one row the perimeter of the chimney increases by a quarter of the width of the brick. The fluff must fit snugly against ceiling beams. If they are at a great distance from the chimney, it is necessary to make special resistant frame structures.

Step 5 Lay out the fluff according to the diagram. Keep in mind that this is only a schematic diagram, the specific number of rows of bricks to reach the maximum fluff width depends on the design of the bath. It is not necessary to make a square profile fluff, you can lay out a rectangular one.

In the photo - fluff

Important. There should be no gaps between the ceiling beams and fluff, otherwise the chimney will stagger under the influence of sudden gusts of wind. Fluctuations will violate the tightness of the junction of the pipe to the roofing, and this will certainly cause leaks. What is a constantly wet truss system or attic, no need to explain. Do not lay any mineral wool for thermal insulation, the thickness of the fluff completely excludes spontaneous combustion of wooden elements.

Step 6 Gradually, for the same number of rows, go from fluff to the size of the chimney, pull it up to the roof.

Step 7 At the lower level of the roof, start laying the otter. This element of the chimney is more complicated than fluffing, the increase in the width of the chimney should occur gradually, taking into account the slope of the slopes. We strongly recommend to increase the stability of the structure during masonry by immuring metal plates into the otter and attaching them to the rafter system.

The ends of the bricks need to be trimmed, this will reduce the gap between the roofing and the otter. If you don’t want to cut it, we advise you to install between the bottom of the otter and the roofing metal sheets to prevent hitting truss system and attic precipitation.

Practical advice. For those who are building a brick chimney for the first time, we strongly advise you to lay bricks on the ground without mortar before laying them according to the scheme. This will allow you to better understand the masonry technology and avoid annoying mistakes.

Important. If the chimney plaster is not planned, then the visible part of the masonry must be done under the internal or external jointing. The bricks are even and beautiful - embroider the seams, the appearance of the materials is unsatisfactory - you will have to plaster. We will talk about the technology of plastering a little below.

Step 8 Header masonry. A purely decorative element, increase the outer perimeter of the chimney by a quarter of a brick. The head is one row and immediately after it is the finish line. In the finish row, we recommend immuring a metal mesh from birds. Fasten the protective cap on top of the chimney with dowels.

Give two or three days to dry, and then start the first heating of the furnace. Do not be alarmed if, at the beginning of the heating, there is little or no draft at all, over time everything will fall into place.

How to plaster the top of a brick chimney

There are two options:

buy special metal corners in the store;
make your own universal fixture.

We believe that making a universal fixture is much more profitable.

First, it's much cheaper.
Secondly, it can be used when plastering door and window openings, external corners of walls, etc. e. This means that such devices will always come in handy at a construction site.
Thirdly, you can independently adjust the thickness of the plaster layer depending on the condition of the surfaces.

The device is made from pieces of wire rod or building reinforcement Ø 6 ÷ 8 mm. The length of the reinforcement depends on the width of the chimney or walls. The bar must be bent with the letter V, the center of the bend is located in the middle. The ends are again bent at an angle of approximately 90°. How to use the device?

Step 1. Pick up even wooden slats, the length of the slats should be equal to the length of the surface. It may be shorter, but then you have to plaster in two steps.

Step 2. Install the rails at the corners of the chimney (or opening) and fix them with two manufactured clamps. Clamps should securely hold the rails in position.

Step 3. Depending on the condition of the surface of the chimney, select the thickness of the plaster layer. Try not to exceed 1.5 cm, if there are large protrusions, then remove them.

Step 4 Using a level, set the rails in a vertical position. There should be two rails on one side of the chimney. Repeat the same operations on the opposite wall.

Step 5 Start plastering the surfaces, remove the excess mass as a rule and align it with the installed rails. Repeat steps with opposite side chimney.

The next day, carefully remove the clips and slats. Now even corners the plasters will serve as guides for the rule during the plastering of the two remaining planes of the chimney. Simple, fast, cheap and beautiful. Do not throw away the clamps, they can be used to process all external corners in buildings.

Simplified chimney masonry

We hope that you have carefully read our tips and already have an idea about laying a traditional chimney. In this case, the simplified version will not create big problems. Let us dwell on its differences and technological features.

Video - Simplified chimney

The chimney has no fluff and otter. Fluff serves as an element of fixation, since it is not there, you need to fasten the structure in a different way. We recommend making a frame around the perimeter of the chimney from the corner, using threaded connections attach the frame to the chimney at ceiling level. Next, it must be fixed to the ceiling beams. You can fix it with metal plates or building reinforcement, it doesn’t matter. The main thing is that the chimney does not stagger.

The otter was needed to seal the exit of the chimney above the roofing. It does not murmur - do the sealing yourself. Use metal sheets for this, the specific sealing technology depends on the type of roof. We will indicate only the main general points.

Protective aprons must be bent and inserted into the groove cut on the planes of the chimney.
To completely exclude the ingress of moisture, it is highly desirable to treat all contact points with any sealant.
There is a possibility - during the arrangement of the roofing, purchase factory sealing systems for the chimney outlet.

If the brick used for laying the chimney has already been in use, then the internal channel must also be plastered. Special angles and straightness should not be observed, the main thing is that the surfaces are as smooth as possible.

Availability effective ventilation in the steam room and shower room - one of the important conditions for the comfort of taking water procedures. In addition, it helps to quickly dry the premises and increase the life of all wooden structures.

Putting a brick chimney just for the sake of smoke from the stove is not practical. In this case, you will have to make ventilation products in the walls. We strongly recommend that you immediately make ventilation ducts in the chimney. If the stove and chimney are placed correctly, then it becomes possible to equip ventilation not only in the steam room, but also in the shower room. For other rooms of the bath, ventilation can not be done at all.

Installation is allowed in channels electric fans() or decorative grilles with adjustable shutters or shutters.

How is the work on laying ventilation ducts carried out?

Step 1. On the ground of bricks, make a preliminary layout of the chimney, provide in it one channel for smoke and two for ventilation. In order to save money, lay the pipes from the stove aerated concrete blocks, they are much cheaper, use brick only for the smoke channel. The entire chimney made of bricks should be laid only from the opening of the ventilation ducts (under the ceiling of the steam room and shower room). After opening the channels, the chimney is made only from ceramic brick.

Prices for aerated concrete blocks

aerated concrete block

Step 2 Lay the bricks with a dressing, it is enough to make the dimensions of the ventilation holes around the perimeter ≈ 12 cm, which is one width and two thicknesses of a standard red solid brick.

Step 3 If, for technological reasons, the ventilation duct has to be made in the corner of the chimney, then cut the bricks with a grinder to give them the desired geometric shape. Close the seams carefully, do not leave gaps. Violation of the tightness of the seams significantly reduces the efficiency of ventilation of the premises.

Step 4 The recommended wall thickness between the ducts is half brick, but you can change it depending on the required distance between the ventilation and smoke ducts. Tie each new row with the old minimum of half a brick. Keep in mind that the dimensions of the chimney with ventilation ducts increase, wind sail loads increase, therefore, its stability must be increased.

Step 5 According to the same algorithm, continue laying along the entire length of the chimney. To speed up work between extreme corners, pull the rope and control the position of the bricks along it. It does not hurt to check the verticality of the structure from time to time. The head is made in the usual way - with a third of the brick overhanging through the row.

Video - Laying a chimney with ventilation ducts

Otter and fluff in such chimneys should not be done, attach the chimney to the beams and rafters with metal corners and plates.

How to calculate the diameter of the chimney channel

You can find statements that the height of the chimney cannot be less than five meters. This is not so, ignore such statements. Just imagine a bath about two meters high, above which a three-meter-high chimney sticks out.

Accurate calculations are quite complicated, you need to know a lot of formulas and take into account a large number of factors: the temperature of the gases at the inlet to the chimney, the speed of the air flow, the height, the burning rate and the type of fuel, the wind rose, etc. You should not engage in such complex calculations, we advise use the Swedish method. It takes into account the main indicators, based on them, calculations are made and a schedule is drawn up. As initial data, you only need to know the area of \u200b\u200bthe furnace (F), the chimney (f) and its height (H). Having two parameters, you can always find out the unknown third.

For example, you know the dimensions of the firebox and chimney, you need to know its height depending on the profile configuration. Find the percentage of these parameters and use the graph to find out the minimum height. Or vice versa, the height of the chimney and the area of \u200b\u200bthe furnace are known, but you need to find out the size of the chimney channel. Again, using the simplest arithmetic operations on the graph, you will find out the dimensions of the channel, taking into account the configuration of the section.

Otter and fluff masonry can be simplified by using metal plates or rods. With their help, connect the rows together, just do not allow the bars to fall into the working channels.

You can find advice not to plaster low-quality bricks, but to cover them with special ceramic tiles. We do not recommend doing this for several reasons.

Ceramic tiles for the stove - an example

Firstly, there is a high probability that the tile will fall off, constant cyclic changes in the linear dimensions of the chimney have an extremely negative effect on the adhesion of the tile.
Secondly, before facing uneven surfaces, in any case, they will have to be trimmed. Why then do double work for triple the money?

Important. The duration of operation of a brick chimney largely depends on the modes of furnace furnace. Red brick is very afraid high humidity. Especially in winter period the time when the water freezes and destroys its integrity with double speed. What to do so that the brick in the chimney is not wet? Everything is very simple - the temperature of the gases at the outlet of the chimney must be at least + 110 ° C, such conditions will exclude the appearance of condensate on the walls of the channel.

But here there are problems. To achieve such a smoke outlet temperature, it is necessary to heat the stove strongly, and this is not always possible and advisable. In addition, most modern factory furnaces have a fairly high efficiency, the heat of combustion of the fuel is given off in the combustion chamber, and relatively cold gases enter the chimney. So condensation is inevitable. By the way, condensate not only negatively affects the strength of the brick. A lot of soot sticks to the wet walls of the channel, the chimney will have to be cleaned in almost a year.

There are two ways out of this situation.

The first is to heat the stove strongly.
The second is to insert into the chimney channel thin-walled pipe from alloy steel.

Choose which of the methods we offer best suits you.

The removal of gases and smoke from heating devices is one of the main components of ensuring comfort and safety. It is not enough to choose the chimney you like in the photo in a private house, it is important to take into account the possibility and nuances of its installation. The efficiency of removal of combustion products from stoves, fireplaces, gas, liquid and solid fuel boilers depends on the correct installation. Learn the requirements and get to know the rules, even if you don't plan on doing the work yourself.

The most popular configuration of a modern chimney in a private house

Basic requirements for chimneys

The chimney is designed to remove combustion products and create draft during the operation of heat generators. It must be resistant to high temperatures, moisture and sulfuric acid formed on contact. flue gases with condensate. The walls of the pipeline should be smooth so that less soot accumulates.

Requirements for the installation of chimneys are regulated by special state regulations: SNiP 41-01-2003; VDPO (Rules for the production of work, repair of furnaces and smoke channels); SP 7.13130.2009.

The main ones are the following:

the cross-sectional area of the chimney or duct must be greater than or equal to the area of the outlet pipe of the heat generator;
at the base of the channel, it is necessary to arrange a pocket 250 mm deep for cleaning and / or a pipe for removing condensate;
you can not use more than three turns;
the pipe must be rotated with a radius of curvature not exceeding the diameter;
connecting elements at intersections building structures prohibited;
the length of the horizontal section is allowed a maximum of 1 m;
bends and tees should not bear the load from the elements located above;
if the roof structure contains combustible materials, it is necessary to install a spark arrester with a cell of no more than 5x5 mm on the pipe head;
when working with a heat generator on natural gas the headroom must always be open without umbrellas or other shelters.

The device of the gas exhaust system

What should be the height of the chimney

A necessary condition for the stable and reliable operation of almost all heat sources is the presence of good traction. It arises due to the difference between the temperatures of the exhaust gases and the outside air. With an increase in this difference, traction increases. It directly depends on the height, characteristics and correctness of the chimney device.

The action of the wind can enhance the natural draft in the pipe, and may interfere. Under favorable conditions, horizontal wind flows, colliding with the chimney, change their direction and move from bottom to top, as a result, a vacuum is created at the outlet, and combustion products are literally sucked out of the chimney. In the presence of other obstacles, the wind can be directed from top to bottom and create a reverse movement of gases - reverse thrust, which leads to smoke in the room.

Scheme for determining the height of the chimney

Any high structure located nearby, including part of the pitched roof, can interfere with the normal movement of the wind. Therefore, the height of the chimney is determined taking into account the distance to the ridge according to the standard scheme.

Wherein overall height pipes from the heat generator must be at least 5 m, for a gas boiler - at least 3 m.

Features of chimneys from different materials

The chimney in a private house can be made of the following materials:

brick;
ceramics;
steel.

It is impossible to give preference to one of them and single out a clear favorite. The correct choice of a suitable material for the construction of a chimney can only be made taking into account a complex set of influencing factors. First of all, it is necessary to analyze the specifics of the operating conditions, the properties of each material and the prices at the time of comparison.

Furnace ceramic chimney

Scope of brick chimney

Brick chimney is usually less expensive than other smoke extraction systems. It is able to withstand high temperatures and even soot fires. Its main disadvantage is the bulkiness and complexity of the design. It is built on a foundation or reinforced concrete floor. When working with stoves, fireplaces and wood-fired boilers, it is very reliable and durable, since the high temperature of the flue gases does not allow the formation of condensate. In other cases, it quickly collapses.

Brick chimney from the fireplace

To build a brick chimney in a house with your own hands, you must have the special skills of a stove-maker and a bricklayer. The trunks should be free of cracks and any irregularities. This is a serious construction, which requires skilled workers.

Restoration of a brick chimney can be done independently. You just need to insert a special flexible corrugation of the appropriate length into the channel from above.

Stainless steel chimney inside brick chimney

Benefits of using ceramic chimneys

A ceramic chimney is also relatively inexpensive. It is characterized by increased strength and the ability to accumulate heat. High refractory properties make it possible to use it in high-temperature systems of solid fuel heat sources. The ceramic pipe is able to withstand heating up to 1200°C when soot ignites. The service life with proper care is equal to the service life of the building.

Ceramic elements of different sizes are connected using special grooves and fastened with fire-resistant adhesive-sealant. Ceramic pipes can be mounted openly and in shafts made of bricks or special hollow blocks, installed inside and outside the house.

Ceramic pipes for the chimney

In new construction, it is very profitable and convenient to use system chimneys made of ceramic pipes laid in special shafts. They are a good solution for all types of combustion equipment.

Characteristics and varieties of steel chimneys

The steel chimney is easily assembled according to the principle of the designer. A wide selection of fittings and fasteners allows you to create almost any configuration and install the chimney in a private house, both during construction and during the operation of the building.

Taking into account the requirements for resistance to corrosion and the action of acids, pipes are not made of ordinary steel, but of galvanized or stainless steel. Stainless steel is noticeably more expensive, but has a longer service life.

Scope of application steel products limited to systems with a relatively low flue gas temperature, since according to SNiP 41-01-2003 their maximum temperature is 500°C. Accordingly, use with solid fuel boilers is undesirable.

Steel smoke exhaust systems are very convenient for installation in already occupied houses, as they are mounted quickly, do not need a foundation, plaster and cladding. At the same time, they are noticeably more expensive than brick and ceramic ones.

Chimneys with two walls are also made of steel, according to the “pipe in pipe” principle. They are called coaxial. These are used for condensing and turbocharged gas boilers having closed cameras combustion. The air necessary for combustion is not taken from the room, but from the street.

Coaxial chimneys combustion products are removed through the inner pipe, and combustion air is supplied through the outer pipe. Their assembly is carried out similarly to single-walled steel ones. Installing a coaxial type chimney has the lowest cost.

Kit for installation of a coaxial chimney

Necessity and methods of insulation for a chimney

A safe chimney device provides for its isolation. Pipelines must be insulated to protect against possible freezing of condensate. In addition, keeping heat in the chimney increases the efficiency of all types of fuel-burning equipment.

Ceramic pipes are wrapped with mineral or basalt wool. The same insulation can be applied to an old asbestos-cement pipe by encasing it in a galvanized steel casing. It can be used to fill the gap between the asbestos-cement pipe and the casing of expanded clay, broken bricks or other hollow material with filling cement mortar.

Insulation of ceramic pipeline

by the most budget option protection of the steel chimney is the use of foil-clad mineral wool insulation.

It allows you to quickly and easily insulate not only a new, but also an existing pipe. The result, however, is short-lived, since the regular action of the wind eventually leads to fraying of the insulation, and wet cotton wool ceases to be a heat insulator.

This shortcoming is deprived of chimneys of the "sandwich" type, which already contain a layer of insulation. At the same time, they are just as easy to assemble as single-walled steel ones. The widespread use of this particular option is constrained only by the cost.

Elements of the insulated chimney type "sandwich"

A very good choice is to install a chimney in a private house from ceramic pipes in a steel casing, which combines the advantages of ceramic and double-walled steel systems. It is suitable for absolutely all heat generators, but so far it is rarely found on the domestic market.

Pretty good results are obtained by more economical folk method production of an insulated chimney: the pipe is assembled from galvanized steel, wrapped with mineral wool and enclosed in aluminum corrugation. It turns out a homemade "sandwich". This, of course, is troublesome, but it is much cheaper than standard ready-made solutions.

Economy version of a metal chimney of the "sandwich" type

How to install a metal chimney

Every person who has ever assembled a designer can figure out how to make a chimney in a private house from galvanized or stainless steel. The components of modern metal flue systems are simply plugged into each other. The joints are sealed with heat-resistant mastic or sealant and fastened with clamps.

Installation starts from the bottom, that is, from the heat generator. The connection is carried out "on the condensate" against the movement of flue gases. This will prevent condensate from escaping to the outside and possible icing of the chimney.

Making the pipe pass through the roof

If the chimney passes through the roof, then to protect it from atmospheric precipitation, an adjustable metal apron is used with an angle of inclination corresponding to the roof (0-15 °, 15-30 °, 30-45 °). If the pipe rises above the roof by more than 1.5 m, then it must be fixed with braces.

Fixing the chimney and passing through the roof with the installation of an apron

To seal the intersection of the chimney with the roof, you can use universal rubber seals. Depending on the slope of the roof, a straight or angular type is used. It is only necessary to take into account the range of their operating temperatures.

The passage of the chimney through the roof with a sealant "Master Flash"

How to work with the universal rubber seal very simple. It is necessary to cut off the top in accordance with the required diameter, put it on the pipe, grease it well from below with heat-resistant silicone and attach it to the roof with a screwdriver.

How to install a universal rubber seal

With steep roof slopes, there is a risk of damage to the chimneys by snow avalanches. To protect the pipes when snow slides from the roof, special metal dividers can be installed, as shown in the photo of the chimney on the roof of a private house.

Metal dividers to protect against snow sliding

pipe passing through the wall

In order to avoid the difficulties associated with creating an opening in the roof and its subsequent sealing, they usually try to use the chimney outlet through the wall, usually the back one.

This option implies only one intersection - with outer wall, which is easily insulated with mounting foam, in contrast to the obviously difficult and unreliable connection of a hot chimney to cold roof. In this case, the pipe is easily attached to the outer part of the wall, does not affect the interior, and there are guaranteed no leaks.

Checking the chimney before starting operation

After completing the installation of the chimney, it is imperative to check the presence of draft. This is a very important point, regardless of whether the chimney was installed in a private house with your own hands or with the involvement of specialists. Violations made during installation can lead to poor traction or even reverse. This is fraught with the accumulation of carbon monoxide in the room, which poses a direct threat to the life and health of residents.

The draft can be checked with a mirror by placing it in the area of the smoke hood and pointing it towards the chimney. With good traction, it does not fog up.
It is convenient to use the flame from a burning match, paper or candle. If the flame deviates towards the chimney when approaching the chimney, then everything is in order, otherwise operation is unacceptable.

To check the tightness of the joints and the absence of dangerous heating of structures adjacent to the chimney, a test furnace is carried out. At the beginning of operation, there may be an odor and slight smoke due to the evaporation of oil residues and the crystallization of the sealant.

During further operation, its condition should be checked at least once a year, and cleaned before the heating season.

It is important to remember to clean

Summing up, we should once again dwell on when and which chimneys are best used:

for wood-burning stoves and fireplaces during the construction of a house - brick or ceramic;
for wood-burning stoves and fireplaces in a populated house - ceramic in a steel case;
for gas, liquid fuel and pyrolysis boilers - system (ceramic or steel pipe inside a brick channel) or steel insulated sandwich type.

Almost every man can install the same steel chimney as in the photo in the house with a responsible approach and following the above recommendations. Preliminary consultation with a specialist is guaranteed to save you from dangerous mistakes.

Video: Types of chimneys

Having decided to install (or fold) a stove in your home, you need to immediately carefully consider a few key points, because the pipe for the stove must be safe and fully cope with the tasks assigned to it: remove the combustion products of the fuel used from the stove and form traction.

Type of pipes

It would be desirable to take care of this problem even at the stage of creating a house project. But if the idea of installing a furnace in any building came to your mind later, you will have to make changes to the already erected structures. In this case, the chimney should:

be straight;
do not pass too close to combustible structures;
be made of non-combustible material.

All chimneys usually divided into several types:

mounted - they rely on the furnace itself,
wall - they are built into the walls of the house,
indigenous - have their own separate foundation.

Pipe material

It is worth choosing from what the pipe for the furnace will be created from four non-combustible options - these are brick, metal (steel), concrete or modules with ceramic cores.

Most often, until now, the owners of furnaces prefer to arrange brick-mounted pipes, which, in turn, consist of the following elements:

the neck is the part of the pipe between the furnace body and the groove in the thickness of the ceiling;
cutting - thickening of the pipe in the body of the ceiling;
a riser is a pipe located in the attic space;
cutting at the roof (it is also called "otter");
pipe head.

For the pipe, you will have to use only special high-quality bricks designed for laying heating structures. The solution on which it will be laid must also be heat-resistant and plastic.

Note! If the pipe for the furnace is laid out only of brick, then soon you will encounter the problem of the need for frequent cleaning. The fact is that inside a brick pipe will have many irregularities on which soot will stick. This can be avoided by making the pipe for the furnace double - by inserting a pipe made of another material (“sleeve”) into the brick pipe.

The size

The size of the cross-section of the smoke channel of the pipe depends on two factors:

on the type of oven
from the heat dissipation of the furnace.

For example, for a pipe with heat transfer up to 3000 kcal / h, it is necessary to make a pipe with a section of ½ to ½ brick; and for a pipe with heat transfer from 3000 to 4500 kcal / h - ½ to ¾ bricks.

brickwork

If you are laying a brick oven yourself, then you will definitely have schemes (orders) on hand. These diagrams usually also contain information about the chimney. You will only have to make cuts in the right place, which prevent the heating of combustible elements located in close proximity to the pipe, thereby eliminating the occurrence of a fire for this reason.

Modular chimney option

Note! The convenience of ready-made modules lies in the fact that you do not have to spend too much time building such a pipe. In addition, the finished modules already immediately have a safe wall thickness, so you just have to make (or foresee in advance) holes in the ceiling and roof for the pipe.

Modules are installed as follows:

Purchase a special dry mix for fastening modules recommended by module manufacturers.
Dilute 1 bucket of the solution from the mixture and water, exactly following the proportions that you will find on the package (stir the solution to a homogeneous consistency using the “mixer” nozzle on the drill).
Cut the asbestos-cement gasket to the size of the module.
Lay it on your existing stove in the place where the chimney will be.
On top of it, apply the first layer of the solution.
Install the first module. Check its verticality with a spirit level.
Lay a layer of mortar again and install the next module.
Repeat all operations until the pipe extends beyond the roof to the height you need.
Insulate the junction of the pipe to roofing material and install a structure on top of the pipe that protects it from rainwater.

Note! You can use ready-made modules if you purchased a factory-made stove or fireplace, since it is impossible to lay out a brick pipe with its support on the stove (fireplace), because its weight is not provided for by the design and can lead to the destruction of the stove.

metal pipe

Another pipe option is metal structure from heat-resistant steel, which departs from the furnace, passes through the wall and rises above the level of the roof already outside the house. In this case, the place requiring special attention is the passage of the pipe through the wall and its good insulation.

You should not make such a pipe yourself - it is better to buy it ready-made along with fasteners (clamps), thanks to which you will achieve its complete tightness.

Video

We offer you to watch a video instruction on the construction of a multi-channel chimney for a gas boiler:

Making the pipe pass through the roof

Fixing the chimney and passing through the roof with the installation of an apron

The passage of the chimney through the roof with a sealant "Master Flash"

The procedure for working with a universal rubber seal is very simple. It is necessary to cut off the top in accordance with the required diameter, put it on the pipe, grease it well from below with heat-resistant silicone and attach it to the roof with a screwdriver.

How to install a universal rubber seal

Metal dividers to protect against snow sliding

pipe passing through the wall

In order to avoid the difficulties associated with creating an opening in the roof and its subsequent sealing, they usually try to use the chimney outlet through the wall, usually the back one.

This option implies only one intersection - with the outer wall, which is easily insulated with mounting foam, in contrast to the obviously difficult and unreliable junction of a hot chimney to a cold roof. In this case, the pipe is easily attached to the outer part of the wall, does not affect the interior, and there are guaranteed no leaks.

Exit the chimney through the wall of the house

Types of chimneys

Drain shafts through which harmful gases saturated with combustion products are removed are required not only for standard stoves, but also for fireplaces and gas boilers. To date, several types of chimneys are known. These include:

Direct streaming. This variety is considered a popular building, which is most often used for arranging living space. The only drawback of such a chimney is the rapid heat loss. In addition to toxic substances, most of the thermal energy escapes here.

Straight flow pipes with lintels. They retain most of the heat in the combustion process of materials. This design is quite often used in baths. Such a long-burning chimney for a stove requires constant cleaning. Ash quickly settles on the surface of the jumpers, thereby preventing the rapid removal of toxic substances.

Straight flow chimney with labyrinth. This variety has a high heat dissipation. Carbon monoxide gases pass through numerous bridges. They quickly heat the walls of the chimney, thereby contributing to the maximum heating of the room.

Kolpakovy. It is used for the Russian stove. Hot smoke quickly rises up, where it gradually begins to cool. After that, it descends along the arch of the chimney masonry. The only drawback of such a structure is its uneven heating.

Modular. They are made from metal alloy. They are designed for gas-fired heating systems. Metal chimneys for furnaces are able to cope with the acidic compounds of methane combustion products. Brickwork in this case will quickly collapse.

Features of chimneys from different materials

The chimney in a private house can be made of the following materials:

brick;
ceramics;
steel.

Furnace ceramic chimney

Scope of brick chimney

Brick chimney from the fireplace

Restoration of a brick chimney can be done independently. You just need to insert a special flexible corrugation of the appropriate length into the channel from above.

Stainless steel chimney inside brick chimney

Benefits of using ceramic chimneys

Ceramic pipes for the chimney

In new construction, it is very profitable and convenient to use system chimneys made of ceramic pipes laid in special shafts. They are a good solution for all types of combustion equipment.

Characteristics and varieties of steel chimneys

Details of a steel chimney

The scope of steel products is limited to systems with a relatively low flue gas temperature, since according to SNiP 41-01-2003 their maximum temperature is 500 ° C. Accordingly, use with solid fuel boilers is undesirable.

Steel smoke exhaust systems are very convenient for installation in already occupied houses, as they are mounted quickly, do not need a foundation, plaster and cladding. At the same time, they are noticeably more expensive than brick and ceramic ones.

Chimneys with two walls are also made of steel, according to the “pipe in pipe” principle. They are called coaxial. These are used for condensing and turbocharged gas boilers with closed combustion chambers. The air necessary for combustion is not taken from the room, but from the street.

Coaxial chimneys remove combustion products through the inner pipe, and supply air for combustion through the outer pipe. Their assembly is carried out similarly to single-walled steel ones. Installing a coaxial type chimney has the lowest cost.

Kit for installation of a coaxial chimney

Installation of an external chimney for the boiler

So, we figured out the features of the materials for the construction of an external chimney. The most optimal system is a stainless steel pipe of the appropriate steel grade and wall thickness (depending on the type of fuel the boiler is running on). We note right away that if the boiler is multi-fuel, then the wall thickness and steel grade are considered for the fuel with the highest combustion temperature.

An important condition for the installation of an external chimney is the absence of horizontal transitions. As a rule, it is in them that the largest number soot and condensation that interfere with normal traction.

The distance from the chimney to the roof ridge is also very important, which affects the height of the chimney. The closer the chimney is to the top of the ridge, the greater its height.

Basic requirements for how to make outdoor chimney:

Installation work must be carried out "from bottom to top", inserting each subsequent section inside the previous one. The depth of the joint must be at least half the outer diameter of the pipe.
When installing an external chimney with your own hands, for sealing, each joint is treated with a special sealant and clamped with a clamp.
The walls along which the chimney is laid must be made of non-combustible materials. Otherwise, a process clearance or gasket made of non-combustible material is required.
At a distance of 1-1.5 meters, the pipe section is attached to the wall of the house with a special bracket. Transitions or other structural elements are attached separately.
It is necessary to exclude contact of sections of the external chimney with electrical wiring or gas lines.
When installing an external chimney on an external wall, it is necessary to provide for an inspection window or a removable part for servicing the system.

Step-by-step procedure for installing a chimney:

Make a hole in the wall. It must be located at least 50 cm from the boiler itself.
Fix the fasteners that will serve as a support for installing the chimney. Fasteners for the pipe are installed in increments of no more than 90 cm.
Connect the lower part of the pipe to the boiler.
Move the top of the chimney to the outside.
Mount the capacitor.
Fix the chimney.

Installation of the chimney of their sandwich panels

In order to navigate how to properly make a chimney of this type, special skills are not needed. It is enough to figure out what such a chimney consists of, and in the future to correctly assemble all the parts. Interestingly, some points of sale offer almost ready-made sandwich panel chimney designs that you can purchase and install yourself without any problems. There is an option to pick up all the components and separately, which an experienced seller can tell you. The installation technology of such a chimney involves the following points:

all components are mounted from the bottom up;
in roofing and attic floors remember to use a non-flammable insulator ( stone wool) to prevent fire;
a steel platform is installed to the ceiling, through the center of which a chimney passes;
tees with condensate drain are used for outdoor sandwich pipe;
components going up the level are inserted inside the lower ones;
if we are talking about an internal chimney, the exit to the roof is carried out using a platform-roof, which has a different angle of inclination, which can be selected at different points of sale, depending on individual characteristics roofs;
after installation, do not forget about the protective elements: weather vane, deflector, thermo fungus or spark arrester.

During the construction of a chimney from sandwich panels, you need to know that the height and size of the section are important. The thrust will be better if the pipe is higher, but it should not be excessively high either, since there will be a large aerodynamic drag.

The cross section of the chimney from sandwich panels is determined according to the rule - the ratio of the inner diameter to the maximum dimensions of the firebox opening should be 10:1.

Features of the use of sandwich pipes for a bath

Since the bath, as a rule, is built of wood (and if it is made of foam blocks, then it is lined with combustible material), thermal insulation issues are of particular importance. It is forbidden to use single-layer chimneys for a bath - only brick and sandwich chimneys are allowed. All distances from the chimney to combustible objects in accordance with SNiP must be carefully verified and observed. All pyrohazard surfaces must be insulated with vermiculite or asbestos. It is forbidden to put a deflector on the bath chimney because of its strong windage. The distance from the chimney to the wall is at least 25 centimeters!

Caution: under no circumstances should a bath ventilation system be combined with a chimney.

preliminary calculations

In addition to the section, you should also determine the length of the chimney and its correct location.

Length calculation

There are some requirements here, let's get acquainted with them.

According to the same SNiP, minimum height chimney should be 5 meters.
If the roofing in your case is a combustible material, then the chimney should rise above the ridge by another 1-1.5 meters.
If the coating is non-combustible, then this height will be at least 0.5 meters.

Note! If there are extensions to the house, the height of which exceeds its height, then the chimney must be taken out above this particular extension. . Location

Location

If the roof is flat, then the pipe should rise above it by at least 0.5 meters.
If the chimney is less than 1.5 meters from the ridge, then it must rise at least 0.5 meters above the ridge.
If this distance fluctuates between 1.5-3 meters, then the height of the pipe should be equal to the height of the ridge.
Finally, if the chimney is located further than 3 meters, then this height should be equal to the line drawn in the imagination from the ridge at an angle of 10 degrees relative to the horizon.

If all these requirements are taken into account, then the installation of the chimney will be performed correctly.

Requirements for a chimney for a gas boiler

How to install a chimney for a gas boiler, their design features and how to choose the right location. Find out the answers to these questions

What else should you know?

The erection of the structure should start from heater and gradually rise up.
Various engineering Communication(such as electrical wiring, gas pipeline, etc.) must not touch the chimney.
It is impossible for there to be ledges in the structure.
The structure must be protected from the effects of atmospheric precipitation. This will require a deflector or any other device. It is important that such protection does not prevent the free release of flue gases.
The temperature of flue gases moving through the channel should not exceed 50 degrees.
During installation, all the nuances regarding the installation of a sandwich chimney must be taken into account. So, if the roof is made of flammable material, and peat or wood is used as fuel, then spark catchers, which are usually made from metal mesh with cell sizes of 0.5x0.5 centimeters.
Pipe sections that are sloped should not be rough. In addition, their cross-sectional area must at least correspond to the vertical one.

Connection options

There are several ways to connect such chimneys:

flanged;
by condensate;
bayonet;
by smoke;
and finally cold.

Note! The design is assembled by smoke to completely eliminate penetration carbon monoxide into the room. But for condensate, so that condensed moisture flows freely along the walls due to the temperature difference.

If the installation of the sandwich chimney with your own hands was done in the first way, then the smoky gases will not encounter any obstacles and, thanks to the draft, will be quickly taken out into the street. But if the joints at the same time are sealed poorly, then condensate can penetrate into the structure, which will have a very bad effect on the basalt insulation. In the second case, the inner tube is installed in the socket, so moisture can in no way penetrate inside. But if there is at least a small gap, then the smoke can enter the room. So which option to choose? Condensed moisture harms the insulation, and smoke gases harm human health. The way out is obvious: regardless of the method chosen, all joints and cracks should be carefully sealed.

Note! It is advisable to install the internal pipes of the structure along the condensate so that it does not get into the joints and does not leak.

We also note that even with two layers, such chimneys require good insulation of those sections that are the most fire-resistant - we are talking about the roof, beams and floors. Moreover, the sandwich should not be used to connect directly to the heater.

So, you are already familiar with the technology. Now it remains only to purchase all the necessary materials (necessarily high-quality, certified) and get to work!

Mounting sequence

Installation of an internal chimney begins with drawing up a diagram and calculation required amount pipe segments. To assemble correctly, the device is performed in next order:

Scheme of the chimney outlet through the corrugated roof

The surface of the walls and floor behind the heater and the chimney is protected from heat with fire-resistant material, for example, asbestos sheets.
The first segment of the pipe is connected to the branch pipe of the heat generating device or furnace. If there are gaps at the junction, use an adapter or seal. To seal the joint, use a fire-resistant sealant and a metal clamp.
Each subsequent segment of a single-circuit pipe is put on the lower one so as not to impede the passage of smoke. The connection of sandwich pipes is performed differently - the elements of the internal circuit are inserted into the underlying module, in the external one, vice versa.
It is recommended to observe an overlap between pipes equal to a quarter of the radius. To make it more convenient to process with sealant and tighten the joints with clamps, you should not place them in the places of passage of interfloor ceilings and roofs.
If you want to turn the pipe, the modules are connected using a swivel elbow with an angle of 45 or 90 degrees.
To pass the chimney through the ceiling and the roof, you need to make a hole in them and install a passage box or pipe into which the refractory insulation is poured.

After the pipe is brought to the roof, it is protected by an elastic seal in the form of a funnel, which reliably protects against water penetration.

Installation of a silicone sealant for waterproofing the connection between the corrugated board and the pipe

The pipe is completed to the calculated height and a protective umbrella is put on top to prevent debris, branches and birds from entering the chimney.
The pipe outlet is finished with a decorative apron that matches the color of the roofing material.

After the installation is completed, it is necessary to start the heating system, check the draft and the tightness of the connections - even a small slight smoke indicates serious problems, the solution of which is unsafe to postpone.

Installing a chimney in a house is a responsible event, the quality of which depends on the comfort and safety of operation. heating system, therefore, follow the recommendations of manufacturers, the technology of installation work.

For solid fuel boiler brick chimney

Brick chimney, usually is cheaper than modern chimney systems. The traditional ceramic brick chimney can easily withstand the high flue gas temperatures. The pipe withstands even ignition of soot accumulations in the chimney.

A brick chimney for a boiler in a private house is a rather heavy structure. The chimney is located on the foundation or solid reinforced concrete floor. The construction of such a chimney requires certain skills, it is better to entrust the laying of a sealed and durable chimney to a qualified stove-setter.

Channels and chimneys and ventilation are often placed in a brick chimney

The laying of the chimney is carried out from high-quality solid ceramic bricks of grade not lower than M125 on a conventional masonry mortar. The upper section of the pipe, above the roof, can be laid out of facing or clinker bricks. The wall thickness of the chimney must be at least 120 mm(half a brick).

Brick chimney. Next to the chimney, in one vertical block, ventilation ducts are usually placed. Templates facilitate the laying of even channels with smooth walls.

The size of the chimney and ventilation channels is chosen as a multiple of the size of the brick, taking into account the thickness of the vertical joints. For example, channel section can be 140x140 mm(1/2x1/2 bricks) or 140x200 mm(1/2x3/4 bricks), or 140x270 mm(1/2 x 1 brick). In practice, a smoke channel is often made with a size of 20 x 20 cm(3/4x3/4 bricks). In such a channel, if necessary, it is easy to pick up and insert a round steel or ceramic insert of the appropriate diameter.

The flue gases in the chimney duct must not cool too much. Therefore, they try to build a chimney into the masonry inner wall at home or attached to the wall. Chimney sections that pass through an unheated room (attic) or outside the house insulated with mineral wool.

Brick the chimney reliably and for a long time serves only at a high temperature of the flue gases, which prevents the formation of condensate in the pipe. As a rule, this condition is met when the chimney is operated with a conventional one.

When working with modern gas or liquid fuel boilers, as well as with solid fuel pyrolysis boilers, pellet and others that operate for a long time in low-intensity slow burning mode, the brick chimney collapses rather quickly.

Modern boilers are designed so that the exhaust gases have a fairly low temperature. As a result, the water vapor contained in the flue gases condenses in the chimney. The walls of the pipe are constantly moistened. In addition, when combined with other combustion products, water forms aggressive chemical compounds on the inner surface of the pipe.

In particular, the exhaust gases of boilers contain sulfur, which, interacting with water, forms sulfuric acid in the chimney, corroding its walls. External signs of destruction - dark wet spots on the outer surface of a brick pipe.

The operating mode of the solid fuel pyrolysis boiler also contributes to the formation of aggressive condensate in the chimney, which quickly destroys the brick chimney.

The rough walls of the chimney contribute to the accumulation of soot solid particles on them. wall roughness and rectangular shape chimney channel make it difficult to clean the chimney from deposits.

For connection to a brick chimney of gas and other boilers with a low flue gas temperature, it is necessary to place an insert in the brick channel - a pipe of a steel or ceramic chimney.

How to install stainless steel or cast iron chimneys

The cheapest and easiest way to install a chimney is to install a metal pipe. The entire installation is divided into several successive stages:

First you prepare the channel for the chimney.
Then you actually install the chimney.
And at the final stage, you mount insulation around the pipe.

The channel under the chimney metal pipe should be approximately one and a half times its diameter. In this case, you will have space for isolation.

stainless steel chimney installation

Actually, the metal chimney consists of the following components: a metal pipe, adapters for mounting tunics, a cap and a condenser. In a number of designs, a gate is installed with a chimney - a unit that increases draft in the system.

Chimney installation steps

At the initial stage of installing the chimney, you need to adjust the pipes in length. Further, the resulting structure is placed in a pre-prepared channel. After that, a capacitor and the heater itself (stove or boiler) are connected to the system. At the final stage, the head is installed.

In order to rigidly fix the pipe, it must be fixed to the wall at least every one and a half meters.

When installing steel and cast iron pipes, it is necessary to provide high-quality thermal insulation of the chimney. Only in this case will you be able to avoid the fire of the ceilings and structures adjacent to them due to a suddenly leaky pipe. To insulate a metal chimney, it is best to use classic way- refractory clay. But in extreme cases, you can use special refractory foam.

Also, with the help of clay, it is possible to decorate the joints of the chimney from a metal pipe with ceilings and a roof.

joint of a metal chimney with a ceiling

If you use a metal pipe, then it must be fixed to the ceiling and walls with fasteners every half a meter. This is due to the large weight of such chimney pipes. In addition, the mounting holes are made wider - by about two pipe diameters.

A cast iron pipe will last longer as a chimney, but its installation is fraught with certain difficulties. So you can cut such a pipe only with the help of a grinder.

Proper installation of a sandwich chimney with your own hands

Sandwich chimneys made of several materials are replacing conventional metal pipes. The multi-layer design allows you to qualitatively isolate the floors from heating by the combustion products of the furnace. When installing such a chimney, additional insulation is not required, as a result of which the landing holes can be made practically equal to the diameter pipes.

When installing metal pipes, they fit into each other like nesting dolls and no additional fixation is required to connect the knees of the work. In sandwich chimneys, the pipe elbows must be connected to each other using a special construction adhesive. In addition to fixing the knees, construction adhesive also prevents smoke from entering the premises.

Sandwich pipes are very sensitive to the formation of condensate from atmospheric moisture, therefore they are not recommended for use in the installation of external chimneys. Inside the building, such a pipe can last up to 70 years.

Installation of an external chimney

The most optimal material for the manufacture of outdoor furnace chimney there will be a pipe made of stainless steel. It weighs a little and is well processed by the simplest tools.

outdoor chimney installation

In order to mount an external chimney from a stainless pipe, carry out the following work:

Punch a hole in the pipe adjacent to the boiler. It should be located no lower than half a meter from the top of the boiler.
Place fasteners on the outer wall a meter apart.
Connect the chimney inlet to the heater.
Move the bent pipe elbow out of the room.
Mount the capacitor.
Fix the pipe to the wall.
Install the cap and chimney guard.

Design features of a sandwich chimney

Thanks to the British, all structures that consist of more than three layers are called "sandwiches". And, of course, there is a chimney with a similar name, where there is a thermal insulation layer between the two circuits (mainly from basalt-based materials).

Thanks to this, combustion products are removed from the combustion chamber as efficiently as possible, since:

internal surfaces perfectly tolerate the effects of condensing moisture and high temperature;
thermal insulation layer prevents overheating of the external circuit;
excellent traction is achieved;
design features do not allow moisture to get on the thermal insulator.

The inside of the chimney is made of stainless steel, which is known to be resistant to rust. As for the external, it is often made from galvanized steel, which is less durable, but cheaper. Therefore, you will have to choose between quality (read: stainless steel) and economy (galvanization). And if the inner pipes are primarily required to endure critical temperatures well, then the outer ones must be just strong so that the shape of the entire structure does not change.

In addition to the chimney itself, during installation you will need:

special "adapter" for passing through the roof;
brackets for fixing pipes;
platform for unloading - it will allow you to evenly distribute the weight and relieve the base from the load;
revision with a window for cleaning;
clamps for fastening structural elements;
adapters;
knee 90 or 45 degrees (in order to change the direction of the chimney);
adapters.

Note! The upper part of the pipe can be decorated with a cone or other elements - a fungus, a spark extinguisher, a wobbler, a weather vane, and so on. . Sandwich chimney provides excellent thermal insulation, so it is quite possible to install it even outside the house

But it will function much better if you install it in the house, as close as possible to the heat source (this minimizes heat loss).

Sandwich chimney provides excellent thermal insulation, so it can be installed even outside the house. But it will function much better if you install it in the house, as close as possible to the heat source (this minimizes heat loss).

Read more about how to make a chimney for solid fuel boiler

Previously, we have already considered the principles of installing such a chimney, read more

Varieties of chimney pipes

The chimney pipe serves to transfer smoke and combustion products into the atmosphere, it starts from the inlet pipe of the heater in the house and ends above the roof ridge with a protective umbrella. In private construction, the following types are mainly used:

from brick. The brick chimney has been used since the time when people started building fireplaces and stoves. The difference between the modern one is the use of special furnace, fire-resistant bricks. Due to its heat storage properties, this material keeps the heat inside the pipe, preventing overheating of the house decoration in contact with its walls. The complex construction of a brick pipe, a significant mass, force homeowners to abandon this option. Correct installation of chimneys of this type can only be experienced furnace masters, which increases costs due to the wages of the master.

metal. The sale of metal chimneys has facilitated the creation of a chimney system in a private house. Additional pipes made of alloyed steel with a thickness of 1 mm or more are lighter and cheaper than analogues made of bricks. The device of such a chimney consists of separate modules. Straight modules are used for laying vertical and horizontal sections, and bends and tees for rotary ones. Installing a chimney made of galvanized steel has one drawback, which is that its material has better thermal conductivity compared to brick pipes, so it needs additional insulation. However, self-installation of this type of chimney is much easier to do everything right, just follow the instructions.

Internal type metal chimney

from ceramics. The ceramic chimney device combines the strengths of brick and metal chimneys. It has a modular design and has low thermal conductivity. The price for such products is higher than for a metal pipe, but significantly lower than the cost of a brick one. It is problematic to make a ceramic chimney curved, it is better suited for a vertical system configuration.

Ceramic chimney pipe

The material from which the chimney is made can be correctly selected based on three factors: compliance with the material of the heater, low thermal conductivity and tightness of the joints.

Specifications of sandwich pipe

Material. As thermal insulation material basalt fiber (mineral wool) is mainly used. This type of insulation is resistant to high temperatures and to the impact chemical substances. Mineral wool has excellent heat-insulating/sound-insulating properties and is laid with a thickness of 30-60 mm. Due to their fireproof properties, multilayer pipes can be used in houses built from any material. For the inner casing, more expensive alloys with a high degree of heat resistance are used.

The inner layer of the sandwich pipe is mainly produced by galvanized steel, while the outer layer can be made of copper, brass, stainless steel, etc. The scope of the pipe and the price depend on the content of alloying materials, various alloys and the thickness of the heat-insulating layer.

Sandwich pipes galvanized and stainless steel

Connection type. Elements of sandwich pipes are connected in two ways: corrugated edges and sockets. The advantage of a corrugated connection is ease of installation, but a large amount of sealant is needed to ensure tightness, and this increases the cost of the chimney. With a socket connection, a high degree of tightness is achieved due to the presence of a wider chamfer on one side of the pipe. The advantage is a high degree of tightness, so that the design can be used for gas boilers. But the downside is the complexity of installation and the need for a very precise fit of all parts.

Connection types of sandwich pipes

Assembly of the structure

The external chimney (its main part) is installed outside the building, which is connected by a horizontal pipe through the wall of the building with a thermal unit. After installing the heating boiler, it must be connected to the chimney pipe, which will be located outside the building. It is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. However, it is necessary to follow some rules for the withdrawal of the chimney through the wall.

Mounting outside

Work performance rules

The installation of the chimney is carried out in all cases from the heating boiler, or rather, from the chimney up. The gas exhaust pipe is always put on the previous one, this avoids the penetration of moisture into the insulation.

A heat-resistant sealant is used for the tightness of the structure, not less than 1000*С.
Clamps should be used on waste connections, tees and pipes.
At an interval of two meters, the external chimney must be rigidly attached to the wall with special brackets. They should also be used when fastening tees.
Horizontal sections of the chimney pipe are not allowed to exceed one meter.
Avoid contact gas pipes with chimney ducts and electrical wiring.
When passing a pipe through a combustible structure, use special fire-fighting nozzles.
Install a removable cleaning door (this must be done twice a season) of the structure, at the base of the chimney.

Installation

When everything is known about the design and the material is ready, you can proceed to the main work.

We connect the chimney to the nozzle of the heating boiler using an elbow, pipe or tee (depending on the design).
We join the pipe with the chimney with the necessary transition node.
We process the joints with sealant and install clamps.
We carry out the passage through the wall using a special passage pipe (docking is prohibited at the place where the wall passes).

Attention: All sections of the chimney pipe should be pushed tightly, without gaps, one into the other, the insertion distance should be at least 0.5 of the pipe section (planting depth). .

Chimney outlet in the wall

We are preparing the installation of the vertical part of the structure. At the end horizontal pipe, brought out through the wall, we fasten the tee with fasteners for the vertical pipe. If we use a knee, conditions should be created for cleaning the horizontal gap of the connection. When using a tee, the lower outlet is blocked by a plug, which is removed or we use a tee with revision. How and to what to attach the chimney depends on its location. The pipe is attached to the wall with wall brackets every 2 meters. If the main pipe is heavy, the elbow must be supported. It often happens that it is impossible to fasten to the wall along the entire length of the structure; in this case, stretch marks are used.
We install a collar with ears, attach clamps to the ears and we already attach stretch marks of the required length to them. In this case, the cable for stretch marks must be at least 3 mm in diameter.
In places of fastening of stretch marks, we install eye-studs or anchors (we choose based on the surface of the fastening).

Assembly outer pipe

The next step is to lift and fasten the entire structure of the vertical pipe. It is possible to install in parts, but this is unsafe work at height, and sometimes even impossible. As a rule, the pipe is assembled on the ground, fasten all parts with clamps, prepare fasteners for stretch marks and brackets.

To facilitate this process, we use a hinge.
We select the desired elbow for connection and fasten the hinge to the edge of the outer pipe, weld it.
We raise the finished end of the pipe at the level of the junction and also attach the hinge to the end of the elbow.
We lift the entire structure with the help of attached cables and horns. This should be done in good weather, it is unacceptable to perform in gusty winds.
We carry out fastening in accessible places.
For stability, we fix slightly stretch marks.
We unscrew the nuts that fastened the hinge. We cut off the bolts themselves with a grinder and knock out the endings.
We knock out the hinge and make fasteners of the remaining bolts at the junction.
We produce full tension stretch marks. We adjust the tension with lanyard screws.

Installation has come to an end. We make fasteners of the junction and sealing of the joint. After we carry out the insulation of the vertical pipe, we make insulation (this way we will avoid the appearance of condensate). Now for the heating of the house you can be calm.

Chimney in the bath

For a bath the best option is a metal chimney. The sauna stove rarely reaches extremely high temperatures, and the atmosphere in the sauna is maintained only by good insulation of the room. But here it is better to take stainless steel, because the humidity in the building will be high, which will significantly affect the durability of the metal.

The presented options show the available chimney outlets from the bathhouse. It is worth considering that they all have thermal insulation in the outer area. This is necessary to reduce heat loss and less damage to the metal.

The design of the chimney for a sauna stove is not so complicated, here it is only necessary to take into account important nuance- condensate. It will constantly accumulate due to high temperatures and humidity. This is undesirable, because it will reduce the duration of the chimney.

Single-circuit pipe connecting the furnace and chimney.
Adapter.
Double pipe.
Condensate drain.
Umbrella.

Initially, it is necessary to assemble these components. It is carried out by means of clamps and adapters that allow you to connect the various components of the chimney. You will also need a 45-degree bend, which allows you to bring the pipe to the side. It is recommended to bring it out not through the roof, but through the wall, which will protect the structure from condensation.

Advice ! Assembly can be carried out both in advance and during the installation of components on the building.

The material from which the pipes are made

For different heating devices and types of fuel, its type of steel is selected. It must be highly alloyed and stainless, suitable for the manufacture of chemically resistant and fireproof chimneys.

In the device of the chimney, one of the main characteristics is the steel grade as a criterion for long-term service and resistance to external negativity

During the combustion of various substances, chemically active substances can accumulate in the chimney: sulfuric acid, sulfur, hydrochloric acid. In addition, the temperature during combustion of different fuels can vary greatly.

When heated with wood or gas, it does not rise above 450 ° C, when burning coal, it can reach 700 ° C. Metals react differently to these indicators. Therefore, when choosing a system for removing smoke, pay attention to main characteristic- quality and properties of steel.

Option #1: Alloyed Stainless Steel

The main grades of steel alloys that are used for the production of sandwich chimneys:

Titanium stabilized stainless steel (AISI 321). Used for wood burning equipment. Not resistant to corrosion in sulfur containing environments. Permissible operating temperature - 600-800°C.
Molybdenum stabilized stainless steel (AISI 316). The installation of a sandwich chimney from this steel grade is carried out for heating installations that run on wood, gas, diesel fuel. The metal is acid-resistant, characterized by increased resistance to corrosion, aggressive environments of various nature.
Heat resistant steel (AISI 304). The inclusion of chromium and nickel in the composition makes the steel insensitive to elevated temperatures and acidic environments. It is used for the production of chimneys with a high exhaust gas temperature - about 1000 °C. At a temperature of 600-800 °C, it is prone to loss of viscosity and plasticity, which leads to embrittlement.
The widely used grades AISI 409 and 430 have poor resistance to high temperatures and acids. Most of Chinese products and part of the domestic production is made from steel of these grades.

It is visually impossible to check the steel grade. When buying, you can check the markings on the product itself or try to approximately determine the quality with a magnet. A low quality material will attract a magnet, alloyed metal will not.

When choosing pipes for a chimney, take an interest in their main characteristics. If there is any doubt about the honesty of the seller, take a magnet with you - it will be attracted to steel products with insufficient proportions of alloying additives

Option #2: Black metal for chimneys

By itself, ferrous metal wears out quickly - it oxidizes and burns out. Therefore, special enamel is used to protect it. This improves resistance to acidic conditions. Enamel can serve for a long time at a temperature not exceeding 400 °C and withstand a short-term increase to 750 °C.

A variety of shades of enameled pipes makes them quite popular.

Enamelled pipes are used to divert combustion products from heating columns, stoves, heating boilers, fireplaces. Unlike steel, they can be painted in various colors. This allows you to select the desired shades for the interior or facade of the house.

Option number 3: Combined sandwich chimneys

To reduce the cost of production, enterprises are trying to use cheaper materials. If the inner tube is made of expensive stainless steel, and the outer tube is made of galvanized or enameled metal, then this has little effect on the service life of the product.

It’s worse if it’s the other way around: stainless steel is used on the outside, and cheap low-quality material is hidden inside. Such a pipe intensive use can last a year and fail, which will entail new costs for materials and installation.

Inner insulation layer

Between the two pipes of the sandwich chimney there is a layer of insulating material that keeps the heat inside and thus maintains good draft. Basalt or ceramic wool is used as insulation - fibrous materials with the highest fire resistance class.

Basalt wool can withstand temperatures up to 600 °C, ceramic - up to 1000 °C. Both materials have good thermal insulation properties. Apply a layer of insulation 25-50 mm. For a chimney that is mounted outside, the larger it is, the better.

Why trim the pipe

There are at least 3 reasons why it is necessary to finish the chimneys on the roof:

High temperatures, on the one hand, and cold air, on the other, cause condensate to settle on the inner surface of the pipe. But this is not just water, the condensate is an aggressive acidic cocktail that gradually corrodes the pipe. External insulation shifts the dew point inside the insulation and eliminates the appearance of condensate;

Clinker brick does not require additional finishing.

222222If a solid body was used to construct the chimney clinker brick or a stainless steel pipe, these materials are not afraid of weather troubles. While ordinary brick without external protection will begin to crumble in a couple of years, steel will rust and concrete will crack;
In addition to the strength of the chimney, there is also such an important point as the rain protection of the roof itself. If the sealing of the pipe connection sector with the roof was poorly done, then in a year the insulation will become unusable, and the wooden truss system will begin to deteriorate.

Don't wait until the moment comes complete destruction chimney.

What to rely on when developing a project

Appearance and original design this is of course important, but before you finish the pipe in the house, you should think about safety. About the dire consequences, I think you can guess for yourself

So, in order not to make mistakes and not burn down the house, for a start it will not be superfluous to familiarize yourself with the standards. In this case should be guided by SNiP 41-01-2003, it is this instruction that regulates the installation and operation of heating, ventilation and air conditioning. The document is voluminous, so I wrote out the main theses for you.

Norms SNiP 41-01-2003.

If combustible heat-insulating and finishing materials for the chimney are selected, then the temperature of their spontaneous ignition must be at least 20 ° C higher than the maximum possible temperature of the pipe. The same rule applies to all structures and objects surrounding the chimney within a radius of half a meter;
Capable of corroding hardware must have an appropriate coating that protects the surface from corrosion;
The walls of brick chimneys made of heat-resistant bricks should not be thinner than 120 mm. If we are talking about heat-resistant concrete, then the wall thickness of such pipes starts from 60 mm;
The use of metal and asbestos-cement structures for the arrangement of the chimney is allowed only if there is a factory quality certificate that allows the operation of products at high temperatures;

Finishing of asbestos-cement chimneys.

The use of asbestos-cement and thin-walled stainless pipes in coal or coke ovens is strictly prohibited. These materials are not able to withstand the temperature of gases in such a chimney.

The mouth of the chimney (the highest point on the roof) must be equipped with an umbrella, deflector or other protective structure that prevents debris and precipitation from entering the chimney. At the same time, protective structures should not interfere with the exit of flue gases;
The distance from brick and heat-insulated chimneys to roof rafters and other wooden structures should not be less than 130 mm. If a heat-resistant ceramic pipe without thermal insulation is installed, then the safety distance increases to 250 mm.

Baffle made of galvanized sheet.

When choosing both the chimney itself and the finish for the surface of the chimney inside or outside, you should consider the type of fuel that your boiler or stove will run on. The flue gas temperature directly depends on this.

Types of fuel for a solid fuel boiler.

Pros and cons of using a sandwich chimney

Disadvantages of chimneys assembled from sandwich pipes:

seal failure after a certain number of heating and cooling cycles;
compared with a brick structure, a sandwich chimney has a higher cost;
the service life is about 15 years, while traditional chimneys made of refractory brick serve 10 years more.

Such a short service life is mainly due to the use of low-quality materials in production.

Choosing products from a trusted brand is the first thing you can do for a long and successful operation of the chimney.

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Chimneys assembled from sandwich elements do not need thermal insulation. Any length of the canal section can be located outside the building
smoke channels, assembled from sandwich elements, work with any type of heating units, can be installed in rooms that are not equipped to accommodate such equipment
Sandwich chimney is assembled from elements that are a pipe in a pipe, the space between which is filled with insulation
The assembly and installation of the pipe begin with a horizontal section, start from the exit point of the shaped pipe from the house
Sections of the intersection of the sandwich wall and the roofing system with a chimney are insulated with overlays made of non-combustible materials
At the point where the chimney crosses the roof system or wall, only a solid element can be located. It is impossible for the passage to have a place for joining elements
In order to prevent precipitation from seeping through the roof, a sealed passage assembly is built around the chimney

Argument in favor of sandwich systems

Compatibility with heating units

Design features pipes

Starting section of pipe assembly

Details of insulation of chimney passages

Features of the arrangement of penetrations

The device of the passage node through the roof

Installing an umbrella at the mouth of the chimney

The advantages of sandwich chimneys are as follows:

Insulated walls. Thanks to thermal insulation, even the chimney placed outside does not lose draft. Multilayer walls prevent the rapid cooling of the combustion products, which are quickly removed through the chimney, and this prevents the formation of condensate and soot.
Easy installation. Having studied the principles of building chimneys, even a beginner can assemble them.
Variety of options. To assemble the structure, straight and corner modules are produced. The chimney can be brought up or into the wall, it can go around the truss system, various architectural elements.
Minimum soot deposits. Due to the smooth surface of the pipes, ash and soot are released into the atmosphere faster and accumulate more slowly.

In addition, the sandwich system has a relatively low weight, which means that it is easier to create a support for it and does not require the construction of a special foundation, as for a brick chimney. It can be attached to ceilings and walls, installed directly on heating equipment. Compared to single-walled chimneys, sandwich chimneys almost do not form condensate and are fireproof.

Even the most complex design can be assembled from standard elements of a chimney sandwich

Three options for self-arrangement of the chimney outside

There are 3 options where a person without special training can do everything with his own hands. The first option concerns brick pipes, which do not need lining, but you need to seal the joint with the roof. After that, there is a frame version and a version with ready-made factory solutions.

Option number 1: we equip a brick pipe

The waterproofing of the pipe on the roof must be carried out before laying the roofing material. If the roof is already lying, then it will have to be partially disassembled. The entire perimeter is removed by 50-70 cm around, plus you need to remove the lower part of the roof from the pipe to the edge of the slope.

The scheme of sealing the perimeter of a brick pipe on a pitched roof.

Of the materials, we need a wall-mounted metal profile. It can be bent from galvanized steel with your own hands or bought ready-made. The profile consists of 4 parts, which are superimposed on each other during installation.

It is definitely better to buy an outer apron for a pipe, and it is advisable to buy it together with roofing material, it is easier to choose a color.

The so-called tie is a sheet of roofing iron with sides bent on the sides. It is laid from the bottom of the pipe to the edge of the slope and is wound under the lower section of the wall profile.

In order to hermetically connect a brick pipe with a wall profile, we need to cut a groove with a grinder on the pipe with a depth of about 20–30 mm. The bent edge of the profile is inserted into this strobe.

Under the wall profile on the pipe, a strobe is cut along the entire perimeter.

Next, we insert the bent edge of the profile into the strobe and fill the strobe with sealant. After that, we fix all 4 parts of the profile and a tie wound from below with self-tapping screws with press washers. Roofing material is laid on top of this entire structure.

Scheme of arrangement of the upper apron for the chimney.

The upper apron is attached to the pipe with self-tapping screws around the entire perimeter. On the pipe, it must go at least 100 mm. The lower part of the apron is often made of soft bituminous materials. It is pressed around the corrugated roof and glued to this roof with mastic or special glue.

The apron must be glued to the roof.

The scheme works something like this: the main amount of moisture is removed from the pipe top apron, but if this barrier did not cope with its task and moisture got under the roof, then the wall profile will collect it and the water will drain down the tie from the roof.

Scheme of double hydroprotection of the roof in the sector adjacent to the chimney.

Option number 2: mounting the frame

This method is well suited for insulating and lining the chimney with corrugated board, siding and other similar materials. To begin with, the base is sheathed with a metal profile, later we will mount the corrugated board on it. The frame is best made from a wall profile for drywall, it is wider than the ceiling.

The frame made of metal profile is more durable.

It is not difficult to work with a metal profile, but if you are not confident in your abilities, then you can build a frame from wooden blocks. Truth wooden frame it will be necessary to soak well with flame retardants, antiseptics and water-repellent composition. Between the slats of the frame, to insulate the pipe, slabs of dense mineral wool are laid.

Chimneys are insulated only with dense mineral wool slabs.

Decking or any other sheet material it is screwed to the frame rails with self-tapping screws with press washers. The whole structure is crowned with an umbrella to protect against rain.

Scheme of insulated and cladding pipes in section.

Option number 3: ready-made solutions

FROM round pipes now there are no problems at all. Special flexible aprons are produced for them. From experience, you can mount such an apron in a maximum of a couple of hours. Photo instructions for installing such an apron are given below.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a flexible junction for a round pipe.

Choose the pipe diameter you need and cut a hole in the soft polymer cone;
Pull the cone onto the pipe, the connection should be tight;
Compress the lower soft metal ring in the shape of the roof;
Thickly lubricate the perimeter under the ring with sealants;
Screw the ring to the roofing material with self-tapping screws with press washers.

Design features

In spite of huge selection materials for the construction of chimneys, the most widely used today are double-circuit steel pipes, popularly referred to as "sandwich".

The chimney type "sandwich" is a two-layer structure. Between two metal pipes of different diameters, a layer of heat-insulating material is laid, which simultaneously serves as an insulator and a heater.

Video: Sandwich pipe chimney

Compared to single-circuit pipes, which are made from steel with a thickness of 0.5 mm, double circuit design differs in the increased fire safety and the best technical specifications. For installation of a chimney outside the building, single-circuit pipes are not recommended. Indeed, due to just one layer, they are simply not able to retain heat in the cold season. because of sharp drop temperatures in such a chimney, condensate forms, which reduces draft and creates plugs in the pipe.

The device of a double-circuit sandwich pipe

Therefore, for installing a chimney through a wall, the best option would be to buy a sandwich pipe. The popularity of such a double-circuit chimney is due to the low price compared to brick chimney, attractive appearance, excellent technical characteristics, fire safety and long-term operation.

In addition, the installation of a chimney from this material can be done by hand. And although there are some nuances and subtleties here, even a beginner can cope with the task if you strictly follow our detailed instructions.

What should be the height of the chimney

Scheme for determining the height of the chimney

In this case, the total height of the pipe from the heat generator must be at least 5 m, for a gas boiler - at least 3 m.

Structural elements and their features

The variety of products available allows us to challenging tasks for the construction of sandwich chimneys.

Chimney manufacturers have developed more than twenty different elements to facilitate installation

The main structural elements of the chimney channel are:

Straight sections of pipe. Segments with a diameter of 80-600 mm, up to 1 m long. Ideal Design the chimney is straight, but in practice this is difficult to achieve.
Elbows and tees. They are used if it is necessary to bring the chimney through the wall, outside the building, or bypass the structural elements of the house - beams, rafters. Sometimes, for turns (especially straight lines, 90 °), revision tees are used - they allow you to clean the chimney in hard-to-reach places. They are installed and strengthened with brackets so that they do not bear the weight of the structure above.
Pass pipe. Isolates the pipe from interfloor partitions, serves as a mount for the chimney.
Roof cutting. It is a metal cone that is attached to the roof at a certain angle. It helps to pass the pipe through the roof without violating its tightness and increasing fire safety. Instead, a special silicone seal can be used, which serves as the best protection from leaking.

In addition to the above elements, there are still a lot of devices for installing a chimney from sandwich pipes, as well as its further operation.

The chimney is fixed with brackets every two meters. Fasteners for fixing the clamps on the wall are selected in accordance with the material from which it is composed

Second phase. Chimney outlet

This procedure can be performed in one of two ways:

through the wall;
through the roof.

Let's take a closer look at each of the options.

Option number 1: output through the wall

In this case, the entire structure will have to be disassembled and fixed with the so-called landing brackets. After that, an external bracket is assembled, a pair of corners is attached to it, forming “runners” (so the tee can be freely moved during installation, while nothing will get stuck).

The wall itself is closed with a sheet of plywood 1 centimeter thick, and asbestos is attached on top with screws. Next, a sheet of galvanized steel with dimensions of 12x20 centimeters is installed. A square-shaped hole is made in this sheet for the outlet of the pipe, after which it is also fastened with screws. At the end, the bracket is covered with a special anti-corrosion varnish. An adapter is inserted into the hole, a hole is made in it, and then a pipe is put on it.

Also in the construction of chimneys there is such a thing as a concession. This is the space that must be left between the wall surface and the pipe.

Table. Basic requirements for a concession (it is also called a retreat)

Note! The first structural element must be calculated in such a way that the first sandwich pipe is attached to the second one above the level of cutting the ceiling. This is explained quite simply: the most fire-resistant elements need visual control

Option number 2: output through the roof

Such a do-it-yourself sandwich chimney installation is also possible. In this case, a sheet of steel is taken and applied to the exit hole from the inside. The chimney is removed and only then the sheet is fixed to the roof. If necessary, it is additionally wound up under the edge.

Note! If the roof is flat, then the pipe, as noted above, should be at least 1 meter higher than it. And if the height exceeds 120 centimeters, then extensions with clamps are additionally placed.

If the roof is made of combustible material, then it is additionally protected from ignition. For this purpose, the chimney is equipped with a spark arrestor.