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What are the difficulties of warming the floors in the bath? A bathhouse is a structure with high levels of humidity and temperature, for comfortable adoption of water procedures, certain temperature conditions should be created in them throughout the entire volume of the premises, while taking into account both the design features of the building and the materials for erecting individual elements. There is another significant distinguishing characteristic of the baths - the conditions for using the rest room and the steam room are so different that this has a decisive influence on the building materials and technologies used during their construction.

For the southern regions of our country, the problem of warming is not relevant, but in the northern regions, cold floors create significant difficulties. This applies not only to large heat losses from the interior, but also to discomfort during washing. The cold has a particularly negative effect on young children, they are constantly either on the floor or in close proximity to it. Bringing a cold child out of the bath is not the biggest trouble.

In the article, we will consider several methods of floor insulation used in the bath, taking into account the purpose of the premises and the features of building technologies. Insulation solutions will be different, you will need to make an independent choice, taking into account the characteristics of your bath, personal preferences and financial capabilities.

Floor insulation with screed on the ground - scheme

This method can be used for various bath rooms, it has good efficiency and reliability. We will consider the most complex multilayer version of insulation, and you can simplify it a little for yourself, abandon some work. It all depends on the climatic zone of residence.

Step 1. Make a markup.

The height of the last coating should be at the level of the subfloor, this must be remembered during marking. Therefore, take into account the number of layers of the screed, the features of the insulation, etc. Beat off the subfloor mark on the walls with a hydraulic level and mark each layer from it in reverse order.

In our case, this will be a screed with dry concrete (about 5 centimeters), a layer of foam concrete (about 10 centimeters), a layer of expanded clay (about 15 centimeters) and a sand cushion (about 15 centimeters).

Foam concrete - structure

You can add extruded polyurethane or foam insulation, replace one of the insulation layers we mentioned, etc.

The thickness is also not a dogma, we can't know your specific conditions. But vertical marks for each layer must be made, constantly control the thickness of the layers made. Otherwise, the height of the floor in each individual room of the bath will not be the same.

Step 2 At a depth determined according to our advice, level the ground. You need to level it with a shovel "by eye". If you wish, you can check the horizontal level.

Step 3 Spread a layer of dry sand. It will absorb vertical loads during soil heaving. Tamp the sand with any improvised means. In no case do not pour water on it to shrink! In addition to harm, such a “technology” does nothing.

Sand cushion - photo

Step 4 Pour a layer of expanded clay. You can replace it with slag or other porous waste products. At the lowest level, it is better to use durable and moisture-resistant insulation, they do an excellent job with all the adverse effects that occur during operation.

Slag - photo

Step 5 Fill expanded clay with foam concrete.

This is excellent material in every respect. It is made only from cement and sand in a ratio of 1: 3, the porous structure is obtained by adding special additives. They can be purchased at hardware stores.

Important. Do not purchase such additives from open warehouses, additives lose their characteristics after freezing. Not a single seller will talk about this, and you will not know “by touch”. The fact is that in appearance, foam concrete made using low-quality additives almost does not differ from normal. Only after it cools down will it be found that the material has almost no strength, crumbles under the slightest load.

Video - Filling the floor with foam concrete

Step 6 For foam concrete to harden, you need to wait two to three days, after which you can continue work. There are two options here - lay the finish flooring on it immediately or make a cement-sand screed. We recommend the second option, in terms of time and finances, the top screed should not scare away developers. And the strength and reliability of the coating increases much.

Step 7 Screed.

It is advisable to put it on a reinforcing mesh, the size of the cells is about five centimeters, the thickness of the wire does not matter. The screed is best done with dry concrete. It is much easier to work with it, it has good heat-shielding performance, the cost and consumption of dry concrete is much lower than that of ordinary concrete.

Semi-dry floor screed - mortar

"What is it and how is it done"? Dry concrete differs from ordinary concrete in a much smaller amount of water, while compressing it in the hand, water should not appear between the fingers, and the shape should be held. In this simple way, the relative humidity of the material is checked.

For manufacturing, only sand and cement should be used, the proportion is enough 1: 4, the mixture can be prepared either manually or with a concrete mixer. The second method is easier physically, but requires experience. The fact is that the inability to prepare such a solution will lead to the fact that instead of a homogeneous loose mixture, balls of various diameters are formed in the concrete mixer. This is not critical, but it significantly complicates further work and somewhat reduces the physical characteristics of the strength of the screed. A dry screed and so does not have very high load-bearing performance. To prevent the formation of balls during the kneading, you need to first pour water into the concrete mixer, then cement, and only lastly sand, and not vice versa.

How to work with such material?

Step 1. Put a reinforcing mesh on the foam concrete and set beacons on it, the screed should be as even as possible.

Lighthouses are installed according to the level or a stretched rope. As beacons, you can use ordinary wooden slats of the appropriate height, industrial metal beacons, or make them yourself from a dry mix. The latter method is the most versatile and of the highest quality, but only professional experienced builders use it.

First, according to the level, you need to make several pyramids of dry concrete, their height should slightly exceed the thickness of the screed.

Carefully remove the top of the pyramid at the calculated height with a trowel, trim the upper plane. Next, work should be suspended until the next day, let the solution harden a little. The next day, between the individual cut pyramids, pour narrow strips of the solution. An even wooden lath or a long level is placed on two adjacent pyramids and the horizontal position of the poured strip is beaten off. Such operations must be done for all beacons. The advantage of such beacons is that the surface is absolutely the same, there are no places with reduced strength. After all, metal or wooden beacons will have to be removed from the solution, the resulting cracks should be sealed. The strength of the screed in these places is reduced.

One more piece of advice. If you need to make beacons very quickly - after leveling, sprinkle them with dry cement, carefully remove the cement that has absorbed moisture and repeat the operation again. Such a simple method will allow you to use beacons in an hour or two after manufacture. True, the strength will not be very good, you will have to work very carefully with a leveling rail.

Step 2 Start work from one side of the room. You should not pour a lot of mortar at once, depending on your skill and ability to work, take 3-4 wheelbarrows. Level dry concrete with a shovel at an approximate level in height.

Step 3 It is necessary to align the solution in height along the beacons with an even rail. If there are holes, pour the solution into them. Next, work with a smoother. Experienced builders make a screed of 30 square meters or more in a day in this way. If you reach a capacity of 5 ÷ 10 m2 - excellent, it is within these limits that the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe bath rooms is located.

To guarantee the tightness of the insulation, you can put a layer of waterproofing from any material over the foam concrete.

Step 4 The final coating on dry concrete can be put on the second day, which greatly speeds up the construction of the bath. It is best to use ceramic tiles, but this is not necessary.

Reinforcing mesh prices

reinforcing mesh

As heaters, you can use extruded durable sheet foam or pressed mineral wool. According to the technical parameters, the concrete pavement must meet the requirements of SNiP 2.03.13–88.

SNiP 2.03.13–88. SP 29.13330.2011. Floors. Download file

Industrial or homemade concrete slabs can be used as flooring. Factory concrete floors have special holes to reduce heat loss, which makes it possible to get warmer floors. To improve the characteristics of ordinary concrete, you can dilute part of the gravel or crushed stone fraction with porous materials during its manufacture. The strength of the concrete will decrease slightly, but this does not have any noticeable negative effect on the basis of the floors.

It is very difficult to pour the floor slab on your own, it is much cheaper to use the finished one. In this regard, we will not even talk about how the process of pouring concrete floors is carried out.

Be sure to inspect the floor slabs before work

Check the condition of the overlap, remove any large ledges.

If the size of the nervousness exceeds the allowable limits, it is necessary to make a screed. We advise on concrete to make a liquid screed with a cement-sand mortar. Although in terms of physical strength it is somewhat inferior to the usual, it is done much faster and easier.

How to make a liquid screed?

Step 1. Inspect the surface of reinforced concrete slabs, bend the protruding metal rings, cover or simply fill large gaps in the joints between the slabs with any improvised materials.

Step 2 Prepare a screed solution. For its preparation, you can take four to five parts of sand per part of cement. Water must be added until the solution reaches the consistency of sour cream, but not greasy, but ordinary. During pouring onto a flat surface, most of the solution should spread independently under the influence of gravity.

Step 3 Prepare For these purposes, you can buy special metal ones in the store, it is quite convenient to work with them.

If it is not possible to use store-bought ones, ordinary wooden even bars 2 ÷ 3 centimeters thick are suitable for lighthouses. True, the wooden bars must be fixed with dowels on the slab, otherwise they will move during the pouring of concrete.

If metal beacons also lie unstable on the surface of the plate, fasten them too. The distance between the beacons should be slightly less than the length of the leveling rail with which the solution will be leveled. Reiki exposes first at the corners of the room, and then put all the rest along the rope stretched between them.

Installing a beacon - example

Step 4 Pour the solution in buckets onto the stove in turn, immediately align it with a rail at the level of the beacons.

The work is done quickly, no special physical effort is required. The whole room is flooded - leave it to cool for at least a day. You can significantly speed up and facilitate the process of leveling the solution, you do not have to work in a bent position all the time. To do this, you need to make the simplest device - a leveling rail with a long handle.

How it's done?

1. For the rail, select a flat board with a thickness of about 10 mm, a width of 100 mm and a length of 50 ÷ 60 cm more than the distance between the beacons.
2. Pick up a bar of about 30x30 mm, 2 meters long. The surface needs to be sanded a little so as not to be injured during operation. From the same bar, prepare two pieces 30 centimeters long, cut the ends of the pieces at an angle of 45 °.
3. Fasten a long bar in the center of the board with a self-tapping screw, it will serve as a handle. On the sides of the bar on both sides, fix the segments, attach the second ends to the board.

With this attachment, you can not only level the grout much faster, but also get much less tired. The main condition for working with any leveling rails is that they must always lie on two beacons. Keep an eye on this, the sliding of the surface of the board from the beacons leads to the formation of funnels, you will have to waste extra time and effort on their alignment.

Step 5 After a day, you can remove the beacon rails or leave them in solution, this will not affect the characteristics of the insulated floor.

Step 6. For the final alignment of the screed, you need to go through the rail again in the transverse direction to the previous one. The fact is that on the surface of the screed, small waves with a height of 1 ÷ 3 millimeters after the rail will inevitably remain. When exactly to do the final alignment, it is impossible to say exactly. It all depends on the drying rate of the solution, and the speed, in turn, is affected by the composition of the solution, the temperature and humidity in the room. “Readiness” should be defined practically. If the solution can withstand the weight of the builder, then you can do the final leveling. We must say right away that it is desirable to do this operation under the foam slabs, but not necessarily.

Prices for cement-sand mixture

cement-sand mixture

Warming

Foam sheets are laid on the finished screed, make sure that there are no gaps between the joints. It is better to lay them with little effort, the edges are slightly deformed and hermetically “seal” the joints.

There is no need to protect the insulation from below, but hydroprotection should be placed on top. Use for these purposes any of the modern waterproofing materials or an ordinary polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 30 microns. Next, you need to protect the upper surface of the foam from excessive loads, distribute efforts over the largest area. You can do it with a reinforced screed. Now it needs to be made only semi-dry, some call such a solution dry, there is no difference, each builder uses the terminology familiar to him. But this terminology is understood by all professionals, get used to speaking not only in bookish language.

Penoplex prices

penoplex

How to make a dry (semi-dry) screed on a heater?

Step 1. Prepare a solution of sand and cement. You can cook it manually or in a concrete mixer. The two methods have fundamentally different technologies, let's consider both. For a dry mix, you need to take 4 ÷ 5 parts of sand for one part of cement. Sand should be sifted, without large inclusions. Pebbles will create inconvenience while grouting the surface.

Preparation of a dry solution by hand.

1. On a flat surface (in most cases, a sheet of metal about 1.5 × 1.5 meters in size is used under it), pour sand and cement in the center. Thoroughly mix the mixture with a shovel, do not allow the appearance of individual lumps of cement or sand, pour it in a pointed pyramid in the center of the sheet.
2. From the pyramid, make a cut cone with a funnel inside. Water will be added to this funnel. Very important! There must be a shaft of mixture around the circumference of the entire cone, otherwise the water will leave.
3. Add water in small portions to the cone and immediately mix the mass with a shovel. Do not add a lot of water, the finished solution should be easily squeezed in a fist without water being released between the fingers.
4. In this way, gradually stir all dry ingredients. If you make a little mistake with the amount of water, then you need to add sand or liquid to it, depending on the consistency of the mass.

In a concrete mixer, a dry mortar is prepared differently. First, the entire portion of cement dissolves in the entire volume of water. After complete dissolution, sand is supplied and the mixture is brought to the desired state. If you do not follow our recommendations, then the concrete mixer will “roll” you a huge amount of cement-sand balls. This, of course, is not fatal, but working with them is much more difficult.

The solution is ready - start making a dry screed with reinforcement on the insulation.

Prepared base - film and mesh laid

Step 1. Install beacons, how to do it - we talked a little higher. Prepare for yourself a piece of a flat board - you will put it under your knees during work. You will have to align the screed on your knees.

Step 2 Pour several buckets of the mixture more or less evenly into the area between the beacons, shovel or trowel a little level.

Step 3 Lower your knees onto the prepared board and evenly level the mixture at the level of the beacons with an even rail. The collected solution accumulates near the knees, the path lies there, you will need it during the final grouting of the screed.

Step 4 During alignment with a rail, gaps will certainly form, take with a trowel the solution that has accumulated at the knees and throw it with small tubercles into the pits.

Important: do not level large irregularities with a small board-rule, its edges should lie on flat areas.

And one more note. Lay the board exactly in the middle of the poured tubercle of the mixture, press it gradually, without fanaticism. The movements of the tool should always be only circular, never make straight-line movements. At first, you will have little experience, a hole will again form in place of the tubercle. It's not scary, add a little dry mixture again and start all over again. Believe me, after an hour or two of work, things will go much faster and better.

Step 5 We prepared in this way a section about 50 centimeters long - proceed to the complete leveling of a piece of the floor. Do not leave too large surfaces for smoothing, it is difficult to reach them, and this is very tiring for the back and arm.

Step 6 During operation, a bucket of water and a brush should always be at hand. Using a brush, it will be necessary from time to time to slightly moisten the surface of the screed, so it is much easier to smooth the dry mortar. Only moisten with "feeling", do not overdo it, do not make wet from a dry solution.

Step 7 Before leveling, do not forget to put a metal mesh for reinforcement. The grid should be in the middle of the mortar, keep that in mind. The thickness of the mesh wire is within 0.5 mm, the wire must be galvanized. If in some places the wire is visible on the top layer of the screed - it does not matter, the strength of the reinforcement is quite enough to withstand the loads present in residential premises.

A semi-dry screed dries much faster than a wet screed, so you can continue working the next morning.

This is if you are in a hurry. If not, then it is better to moisten the screed with plenty of water in the morning and leave it for another day to dry. Wetting with water will significantly increase the strength of the dry screed.

The cement has set - proceed to the finishing floor coverings. You can use any type of floor you like, from ordinary wood to tile. Such a flooring base belongs to the category of universal use.

Warming along the lags

As a heater, rolled or pressed mineral wool, polystyrene foam or bulk materials can be used.

Step 1. The so-called “cranial bars” must be nailed to the bottom of the floor beams, the size of the bars is 20 × 20 mm. They will have a subfloor.

Installation of cranial bars for rolling: A - from scraps; B - from bars; B - with reinforcement with metal brackets; G - using longitudinal samples

Step 2 Unedged boards, pieces of plywood or OSB can be used for the subfloor, the subfloor does not have to be solid, leave a gap of up to five centimeters between the boards, so the amount of materials will decrease and the quality will not suffer.

A vapor barrier must be placed on the subfloor. The fact is that in the underground of the house there is always high humidity, the ingress of moisture or condensate on the insulation or wooden structures is prohibited.

Step 3 Fill the space between the floor beams with insulation, make sure that the material lies flat, without gaps or gaps.

Laying insulation - photo

Step 4 From above, the insulation should be protected by any waterproofing material. Choose not by price, but by quality. Many expensive "promoted" materials in terms of waterproofing characteristics are no different from cheaper competitors. The high price is due to the high qualifications of the employees of advertising agencies.

The thickness of the insulation layer must be at least ten centimeters, otherwise the effect will be insignificant. There are options for insulation along the logs on a concrete base. The technology of insulation has no fundamental differences. The only difference is that wooden logs must be laid on a flat cement base, and thermal insulation is already laid between them. It goes without saying that the logs should be isolated from concrete with insulating materials, and the insulation from above is also covered with waterproofing.

Prices for waterproofing material

waterproofing material

Video - Floor insulation along the logs

If you plan to perform floor insulation in the bathhouse in advance, then the work can be simplified and cheaper. To do this, reduce the distance between the floor beams. For standard cases, beams are installed under the logs at a distance of approximately one meter. Then logs and flooring are installed on them. Reduce the distance between the floor beams to 50 ÷ 60 centimeters, use ordinary boards 50 × 150 mm for their manufacture. Then the insulation will be located in the niches of the beams, and the floor finish can be placed on the upper plane.

Another very important note. If, without floor insulation in the bath, we always only recommended using antiseptics for the lower wooden structures, then in the case of insulation, building standards already oblige them to be chemically protected from damage by fungi and rot.

Floor insulation with liquid foam (penoizol) or polyurethane foam

Relatively new technology, universal use, high efficiency and durability. Disadvantage - not recommended for residential use.

Recently, for insulation with this material there is no need to turn to specialized construction companies. Portable equipment appeared in the implementation, which makes it possible to carry out all the work independently.

Video - Equipment for liquid insulation

Liquid insulation can be used on both concrete and wooden bases, they have excellent adhesion to all types of building materials. Another undoubted advantage is that the top layer of liquid insulation becomes smooth and solid after solidification, which prevents moisture from penetrating inside.

We will consider the option of floor insulation with liquid heaters along the logs.

Step 1. Clean surfaces from dust and debris. Liquid insulation should only be applied to clean surfaces. Another very important condition is that all wooden structures must be dry. If you pour damp logs, then in just a few years they will completely rot, and unscheduled floor replacement costs quite a lot of money. Before starting work, it is advisable to specially dry the materials in a separate warm room.

Step 2 Wooden structures should be protected from moisture penetration from below; for this, use any materials. For example, in terms of performance, ordinary cheap polyethylene film is in no way inferior to expensive foreign-made materials.

Step 3 Gently apply a layer of liquid insulation.

Very important! The insulation contains chemically aggressive substances, work only with a full set of protective equipment: a mask, goggles, protective clothing, etc. After drying and completion of chemical reactions, these substances evaporate from the material. Before continuing work, ventilate the room well, such precautions minimize the risks of unpleasant situations.

Step 4 Cover the insulation layer with boards, sheet plywood or OSB boards, install the final floor covering. If there is a high probability of water getting on the insulation, then you can cover it with waterproof material for insurance.

Another advantage of liquid insulation is that it can be applied to all surfaces without prior leveling. This always significantly reduces the time of work, and in some cases this method is considered the only possible one due to the unsatisfactory condition of the surfaces.

Warming folk methods

We warn you, folk methods of floor insulation by modern standards can hardly be considered effective. In addition, they require a lot of time and physical labor. But there are developers who prefer to build baths only using old traditional technologies.

Due to the fact that bath rooms have unfavorable operating conditions in terms of wooden elements of the structure, it is necessary to approach the insulation very carefully. For wooden structures, the main condition for long-term operation is relative humidity and the presence of natural ventilation. Any hydro- or vapor barrier almost completely excludes the natural ventilation of the elements of wooden coverings, the consequences of such a situation are known. This is one problem. There is one more.

No coating guarantees 100% protection against moisture penetration. Such situations may arise due to a violation of the technology of laying waterproof layers or due to their mechanical damage. Any damage allows moisture to penetrate to wooden structures, but does not allow them to dry quickly. High temperature is added to high humidity, the combination of these factors accelerates all the destructive processes in wood at times.

Is it cold to stand on the floor in the bath for a long time? Try making simple wooden grills or shop for nice rubberized mats. Such insulation of "cold" floors will be the fastest, cheapest, most versatile and reliable.

Lattice on the floor for baths and saunas

In the bath, a well-insulated steam room quickly gains the desired temperature and cools down more slowly, which means that the bath as a whole becomes more economical and practical. We figure out how to insulate the steam room in the bath from the inside with our own hands, how the layout of the room, the choice of material and their installation affect the quality of bath procedures, and also what dangers may lie in case of improper warming of the steam room.

The device, insulation and finishing of the steam room, what you should pay attention to

If it's time to build a bath, then first you need to design the placement of the steam room, then decide on the finish option, and, based on this, carry out the insulation of the room.

Steam room device

Planning is the easiest stage in construction, but it is at this stage that it is necessary to take into account all sorts of nuances that can only arise in the process.

When designing a steam room, consider:

• the number of people who can simultaneously bathe in it;
• type of heating furnace.

Based on this, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, the distance between the shelves, their distance from the furnace, the placement of ventilation and much more are calculated.

If the task of how to make a steam room in a bathhouse with your own hands according to all the rules turns out to be overwhelming work, then it is better to contact the designers, or choose the standard layout option. For example, a steam room with an area of ​​​​2 m wide and 2.4 m long, with a ceiling height of no more than 2.2 m, can accommodate up to three people.

The interior of the steam room

Usually, wooden lining is used for lining the steam room, the only difference is the nature of the material. Of course, you can also make the skin with plastic, but this is a short-lived material if used at high temperatures. Plus, under the influence of hot air, plastic can become a source of toxic substances, so spending time in such a steam room will not only be uncomfortable, but also dangerous.

The correct cladding material is the tree of the following species - linden, aspen, alder, larch. The lining of them is quite heat-resistant and does not deform under prolonged exposure to hot steam. Each of them emits its own individual smell.

Do not use wood containing resin. Under the influence of high temperature, a heavy odor will be released, and drops of resin will appear on the surface. If you really like the smell of a coniferous forest, you can take branches of trees or cones with you to the steam room.

When buying material, pay attention to the presence of defects such as cracks and knots. They should not be, otherwise, when heated, the cracks will only expand, and the knots will fall out altogether, forming a through hole.

Warming

Next, we figure out how to make a steam room in the bath correctly and why insulate the steam room from the inside. Usually the material for the manufacture of baths is timber, less often brick or concrete. If you do not sheathe the steam room from the inside with mineral wool and clapboard, then in the process of creating hot steam, it will be necessary to warm up the supporting beam or brickwork. For example, to heat the air in an uninsulated steam room up to 100 degrees under the ceiling, 120 kW is needed. Warm hour. Provided that the steam room is insulated from the inside, only 15 kW will be needed for heating. Warm hour. Obviously, it is worth doing insulation, but how to insulate the steam room from the inside, the question remains open for now.

Scheme of thermal insulation of walls with mineral wool, followed by clapboard cladding Source masterfasada.ru

properties insulate attention

Before insulating the steam room in the bath from the inside, before lining the clapboard, you should figure out which material is suitable for these purposes.

Insulation for a steam room should have the following properties:

• Moisture resistance. Since the steam room is a place with a high concentration of moisture, the material must be inert to water and, if possible, vapors, otherwise it will get wet and lose its qualities.
• temperature resistance. Since the steam room is a place with a high concentration of moisture, the material must be inert to water and, if possible, vapors, otherwise it will get wet and lose its qualities.
• Safety. Insulation when heated should not emit harmful substances.

There are a lot of options for insulating a steam room in a bath. For example, it is preferable to insulate the walls and ceiling inside with basalt or stone mineral wool. To increase the moisture resistance of the insulation, aluminum foil or a ready-made heat-insulating material with a foil layer is used. For horizontal surfaces (floor, attic space), preference is given to bulk materials such as perlite or expanded clay.

Comparison of vapor permeability of some materials (10(-6)kg/m x sec x atm):

• aluminum foil - 0;
• glass - 0;
• steel - 0;
• polyethylene films - 0;
• polystyrene - 0.1;
• pine board - 2;
• expanded clay concrete - 3;
• mineral wool - 7.

As you can see, mineral wool, having good thermal insulation properties, practically does not have vapor barrier. To fix this, use a vapor barrier, for example, aluminum foil or mineral wool with a foil layer on one side. Polyethylene films, although they have zero vapor permeability, but, having a low temperature threshold, are not suitable for use, since they emit an unpleasant odor when heated.

Floor insulation.

Let's figure out how to insulate the steam room so that the high air temperature lasts long enough. To do this, it is necessary to exclude all possible heat leakage. And you have to start from the floor. In winter, the earth freezes to an average depth of 1 m (depending on the region of residence), therefore, the better the floor is insulated, the less heat loss through it will be.

To insulate the floor around the entire perimeter of the steam room, a hole is dug with a depth of not about 60 cm relative to the level of the clean floor mark. A sand cushion 5 cm thick is lined along the bottom of the pit. The next layer is a heat-insulating material, for example, foam plastic, 20 cm thick. Then 2 layers of cement screed with expanded clay, 5 cm each. And a finishing screed made of concrete grade M 200, reinforced with a mesh with a cell width of 10 cm. When pouring concrete, a slope is formed towards the sewer drain.

After 14 days (the time required for the concrete to fully set), a plank floor is laid.

Non-spillable floor. Laying process Source i.pinimg.com

Ceiling insulation

Let's consider how to insulate the ceiling in the steam room of the bath from the inside and outside, from the side of the attic.

Regardless of what material the ceiling is made of - reinforced concrete slabs or wood, the ceiling of the steam room must be additionally insulated.

Along the perimeter of the ceiling, a vapor barrier film is spread over the walls, pressing it to the surface of the slab with wooden bars 100x100 (mm), the distance between them is 50 cm, or otherwise, depending on the width of the insulation boards used. Basalt mineral wool 10 cm thick is laid between the bars. The main foil vapor barrier is rolled out, which is pressed against the clapboard. The optimal thickness of the wooden sheathing is 10 mm; nails with flattened caps are used to fasten the lining.

The ceiling outside (in the attic) is also subject to insulation. To do this, a waterproofing material is rolled out on the surface and a layer of expanded clay is laid with a thickness of 15-20 cm.

Thermal insulation of the walls of the steam room

Consider how to make a steam room in the bath so that the heat stays longer. To do this, it is necessary to create the effect of a thermos and insulate not only the horizontal structures of the room, but also the vertical ones. The algorithm of work is similar to the insulation of the ceiling from the inside.

It should be borne in mind that a wooden bath from a bar in the first two years of operation shrinks up to 20 cm, depending on the frequency of use of the building. Therefore, when calculating door and window openings, it is necessary to make a margin in height of up to 20 cm, and when insulating walls, use special structural elements.

The first thing to do is to prepare the surface before insulation, cleaning it from debris, dirt and dust.

Second, the formation of a wooden frame for the subsequent laying of heat-insulating material. To do this, from the bars 5x5 cm or 6x6 (depending on the thickness of the insulation), a crate is formed in increments of 50 cm.

If the lining with clapboard is “horizontal”, then the crate is performed vertically, and vice versa, with “vertical” lining with clapboard, the bars of the crate are stuffed horizontally.

The third stage is the laying of a vapor-waterproofing film (it is better to use a stapler to fix it) and insulation.

The fourth stage is vapor barrier with aluminum foil, the joints of which are glued with metallized tape.

Video description

In this video, you can clearly see the nuances of the correct installation of aluminum vapor barrier:

The foil is fixed with a counter-lattice of slats 2-3 cm thick. This allows you to create an air gap between the vapor barrier and the lining, and further reduce the thermal conductivity of the walls.

The fifth and final stage is lining with clapboard.

We make a steam room in the bath correctly and beautifully

Let's figure out what it means to make it beautiful, and how to make a steam room in the bath correctly.

Area calculation

A properly made steam room is directly responsible for the safety of bath procedures. Therefore, do not neglect the calculations when designing a steam room and a bath in general. The dimensions of the room must be calculated not only in terms of cost savings to create the desired temperature. It is necessary to take into account the possibility of servicing heating elements, ventilation shafts, as well as the convenience of using the bath.

Video description

All of these points have already been taken into account in typical bath projects. What they are, see the following video:

Hire a professional or do it yourself

How to insulate a steam room in a bath: a comparison of options for hiring an experienced professional and independent work.

The main advantages of building a bathhouse and insulating a steam room with your own hands:

1. Saving money for paying hired labor, or rather for its absence. After all, all the work is done by the owner himself.
2. Total control, from the purchase of materials to installation, again due to the fact that everything is done independently without the involvement of third-party people and organizations.

The main disadvantages of do-it-yourself construction:

1. Time. Without working skills and not knowing the design standards, it will take a very long time to study this issue.
2. Speed. The work that a specialist will do in a matter of hours, an inexperienced person will do for several days, so that the quality is at a high level.
3. Inflated prices when buying materials. As a rule, when buying materials in bulk, you can save up to 50% of the funds. This is used by organizations working on a turnkey basis, purchasing material for several objects at once.

Beauty is in the details

As a rule, making a steam room in a bath beautiful is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. For the presentability in the steam room, the interior decoration of the walls, ceiling, floor, arrangement of shelves and lighting elements are primarily responsible.

To finish the walls, ceiling and floor, lining of different types of wood is used. You can also combine wood finishes with tiles and masonry.

Highlights on warming the steam room in a wooden bath

Wooden structures shrink during the first years, therefore, it is better to start warming the bathhouse and carry out work on interior decoration 1-2 years after the installation of the log house. If you neglect this rule, then in a year cracks will appear in the walls of the bath, which will have to be carefully caulked, sometimes more than once.

If a decision is made to insulate yourself, then it is necessary to draw up a sequence of work and impeccably follow all the points of the existing rules and instructions on how to properly make a steam room in a wooden bath.

A steam room insulated according to all the rules is a thermos, which is why, in addition to insulation, during work, steam and waterproofing materials are used, which not only increase the service life of the material, but also increase its thermal insulation properties.

The structure of the steam room-thermos:

• load-bearing wall or partition;
• waterproofing;
• thermal insulation;
• vapor barrier;
• interior decoration.

Video description

Visually warming the bath from the inside is shown in this video:

Materials for insulation

There are many thermal insulation materials on the market that are suitable both for warming the steam room and for warming other buildings. Therefore, among them it is worth highlighting those that are suitable specifically for interior work in the bath.

It is worth paying attention to the following characteristics:

• increased fire resistance;
• low thermal conductivity;
• resistance to damage by rodents and insects.

Most often, mineral wool is used, it not only meets all of the above properties, but is also easy to install, which is important when the task is how to make a steam room in a bath with your own hands.

There are no special requirements for waterproofing films. But with regard to vapor barrier - there is. An economically viable option, both in terms of cost and installation work, is aluminum foil. In order for the foil to work correctly, it is necessary to insulate the room with high quality by gluing all the joints with aluminum tape.

Sources of heat loss

At first glance, the window in the steam room is an extra item, but the room with it looks much more comfortable and presentable. And so that the heat does not leave the room, you need to properly install the window, use a two- or three-chamber double-glazed window. Therefore, how to make a steam room with or without a window is up to you.

The smaller the door, the less heat will escape when it is opened. Also, the gap at the threshold can be a source of cold air getting inside the steam room, so the threshold under the door is made as high as possible.

Another point of keeping the heat in the room is the use of stones. The greater the heat capacity they will have, the faster it will warm up and the slower the air in the steam room will cool.

The procedure for insulating the walls of the steam room in a bath from rounded timber.

In connection with the shrinkage of the tree in the first years after the construction of the bath, cracks appear at the junctions of the logs, in some places up to 1 cm. Therefore, before insulating the steam room from the inside, it is necessary to caulk all the cracks with tow, both outside the building and inside, perhaps even more than once.

Further, a crate is mounted inside, for the subsequent laying of insulation. The bars are attached to the bar using sliding corners, this will allow for the option of "walking" the tree during the operation of the bath. The step of the crate depends on the width of the thermal insulation material.

Insulation boards are laid between the crate. To reduce the insulation process, you can use a heater with an aluminum vapor barrier layer. All joints and wooden guides are carefully glued with metallized tape.

Ceiling insulation

How to insulate a steam room in a bath in order to minimize heat loss during bath procedures. You need to properly insulate the ceiling. After all, warm air rises, and if there are cracks in the ceiling, the heat will go outside.

Since the hottest air accumulates under the ceiling, the insulation layer should be twice as thick as the wall insulation.

The warming algorithm is as follows:

1. Roll out a layer of waterproofing, fixing it with a crate of bars for laying insulation. The distance between the bars can be made 1-2 cm less so that the mineral wool is laid adjacent to them.
2. Lay out the heater.
3. Cover all cracks, wooden protrusions, joints, gaps with aluminum foil, which acts as a vapor barrier material. Make an overlap of 15 cm on the walls. Seal all connections and fastening points with staples with metallized adhesive tape.
4. Be sure to perform a counter-lattice for laying the lining. The air gap will preserve the integrity of the facing material for many years.

Video description

How to insulate the ceiling correctly:

What dangers await you with improper warming of the steam room

Sooner or later, the flaws of improper work will come out. There are only two main ones:

1. Wrong choice of materials. As a result, you can get an unpleasant odor emitted by the material when heated, poor heat retention and, as a result, a large consumption of heat and energy.
2. Violation of the tightness of the room. It is observed with improper vapor barrier of walls and ceiling. In this case, there will be a leakage of steam, a decrease in heat and an increase in the consumption of thermal energy. Under the influence of hot air, the deformation of finishing materials and internal structures of the building will occur. Steam turning into water will become a source of dampness, later an unpleasant smell and mold.

Briefly about the main

Particular attention should be paid to warming the steam room from the inside. You need to start with the layout of the steam room, the choice of lining and material for insulation.

Mineral wool is considered the best insulation; expanded clay is preferable for the floor. Aluminum foil is used as a vapor barrier.

It is necessary to approach the process with great responsibility. Therefore, it is up to you to decide how to make a steam room on your own or with the involvement of professionals.

Previously, the floor was always made of a leaky type and, of course, was not insulated in any way. The walls and ceiling were insulated, since warm air always moves up. But, despite this, a considerable amount of heat goes out into the street and through the floor. A significant temperature difference between the upper part of the steam room and the cold floor of the washing room, where a person goes after steam procedures, negatively affects the body.

To prevent heat loss and prevent the penetration of cold air from the street, as well as in order for the bath to warm up faster, it is necessary to properly organize floor insulation. How to insulate the floor in the bath with your own hands will be discussed further.

Features of the structure of the floors

Insulation is made for floors with a non-leaking wooden base and concrete structures. Drainage of water in them is carried out due to the slight slope of the floor towards the drain hole or gutter.

Types of insulation materials

Now, when building a bath, new schemes and materials are used. Concrete floor slabs or logs can serve as a base. In both cases, when insulating floors in a bath, it is necessary to take into account the characteristic features of the base. The heat-insulating layer is selected in accordance with the technical characteristics of the base.

Expanded polystyrene is a rigid and very light material that consists of a polymer alloy of small closed granules. This insulation is universal and can be used for thermal insulation of concrete and wooden bases. But most often used for warming wooden floors. It does not absorb water that can seep through the wooden flooring. The insulation practically does not weigh down the mass of the base. To cut the material, you can use a regular clerical knife, while the waste will be negligible.

It can also be used as a foam insulation on the floor in the bath.

Glass wool and mineral wool are mainly used for thermal insulation of concrete floors. When using such materials for wooden floors, it is necessary to put a reinforced layer of waterproofing on top of the insulation, since this material absorbs moisture well.

Expanded clay is used, as well as mineral wool. These materials have a different structure, but they practically do not differ in thermal properties. Hardwood floors require enhanced waterproofing. When using expanded clay concrete floors for insulation, there are some difficulties associated with the organization of a 10 ° slope for drainage.

To comply with the required slope, expanded clay, which is filled with guides, is poured with a weak cement mortar. You can do it differently: mix expanded clay with cement and pour an insulating layer with such a solution, a cement screed is made on top of it.

Another type of insulation for the floor in the bath is Aisinin - a foam-like heat-insulating material that is used when organizing floors on logs.

Boiler slag, foam concrete, half pan can also be used for insulation. These materials are covered with a layer up to 30 cm, 25 cm, 10 cm thick, respectively. The thickness of the heat-insulating layer depends on the climate of the region in which the bath is located.

Another type of insulation used for bath floors is perlite, which is a silty volcanic sand. To perform thermal insulation, it must be mixed with water and cement. The finished mixture is poured onto a concrete screed, another layer of screed is made on top. When solidified, the mixture will acquire a porous structure. The result is flooded floors in a bath with a layer of insulation.

Preparation of perlite insulation

Perlite is a very light material and will fly apart in a slight breeze, so the mixture should be prepared in a draft-free room. During cooking, windows and doors must be closed in the room.

The mixture is prepared as follows:

1. In a deep container, you need to carefully pour 2 parts of the material, then you need to close the perlite with 1 part of water and let the mixture sit completely.
2. Next, 1/2 of the cement grade M300 and above is added. Everything mixes very well.
3. 1/2 part of water is added and the mixture is mixed again.
4. At the end, another 0.5 liters of water is added.

The finished mixture should be dry and crumbly. It must be kneaded until it becomes plastic. Then the resulting solution is evenly distributed over the lower concrete screed. The layer thickness should be no more than 10 cm. The insulation will completely harden in 5-6 days. Then a leveling screed is poured onto it. Before this, you can lay a waterproofing material and lay a reinforcing mesh, but this is not necessary.

A considerable number of types of materials were given, in order to know how they look, you can see the photo. And naturally, with such a variety, people are wondering which is the best floor insulation in the bath to choose. According to the majority, in terms of technological and technical indicators, expanded polystyrene is the leader among insulating materials. It fits quickly, and you can buy just enough to cover the entire floor area.

Warming technology

Now let's move on to considering the question of how to insulate the wooden floor in the bath and the concrete structure.

In fact, the insulation is carried out in the same way in both cases and is as follows: the insulation is located between two rigid layers and is protected by insulating films. If the floor is wooden, then the heat-insulating material is placed between the rough and finish flooring.

In the case of a concrete floor between the first and leveling layers. There are also characteristic differences. Next, consider how to properly insulate the floor in the bath in each case.

Wooden floor insulation

Thermal insulation is best done during the construction phase. Wooden floors of a non-leaking structure can be insulated later, only it will be necessary to completely remove the final flooring.

The warming of the wooden floor in the bath is carried out as follows:

1. To install the rough flooring, it is necessary to nail the cranial bars. They are attached to the lower edge of the beams on both sides along the entire length.
2. Low quality boards are taken. Their length should correspond to the distance between the beams. The boards are laid on the cranial timber.
3. Waterproofing spreads over the resulting subfloor. The best option would be a membrane that has the properties of hydro and vapor barrier. It must be laid in such a way that all the beams are closed and its edges go onto the walls by 20 cm. The material is fixed to the beams with a stapler. Joints are glued with vapor barrier tape.
4. There are two options for further action: the insulation material is laid or first another row of the subfloor and the insulation is already on it.
5. Depending on the type of insulation, another layer of hydro and vapor barrier spreads. Instead of a membrane, roofing material can be used, the seams of which must be carefully glued with bituminous mastic.
6. The gap between the drain pipe and the insulation should be filled with mounting foam.
7. Finishing boards are laid, excess insulating material should be cut off.
8. Plinth installed.

Between the boards of the finishing floor and the insulation there should be a gap for air circulation equal to 3-4 cm. It ensures the drying of the wood.

concrete floor insulation

Now consider how to insulate the concrete floor in the bath.

To do this, you must perform the following steps:

1. Waterproofing spreads on concrete floor slabs or a layer of concrete that is poured over the ground. Both roll materials and coating mastic (applied in three layers) are suitable. You can perform waterproofing at the same time with these two options.
2. Then insulating material is laid, for example, expanded clay, glass wool, extruded polystyrene foam. The thickness of the insulation layer depends on the thermal characteristics of the selected material.
3. Plastic stands or made from a mixture of alabaster and cement are installed. A reinforcing mesh is laid on them.
4. The screed is poured.
5. Next comes the finishing touches.

Features of insulation of various rooms

The floor is exposed to a large amount of water, as a rule, only in the washing room. The rest room and dressing room do not need mandatory waterproofing. To further insulate the floor in the steam room, it is not necessary to disassemble it.

Here is general information on how to insulate the floor in the bath. However, the thickness of the insulation layers must be calculated, taking into account not average indicators, but real climatic conditions.

A Russian bath is a place where a person relaxes, rests his body and soul, therefore, even during construction, it is necessary to think about the insulation of walls, ceilings and, most importantly, the floor in all rooms, because experts say that good insulation can reduce heat costs by almost two times. In addition, it takes much more time to heat rooms without proper insulation, and they cool down in a matter of hours.

The floor in the bathhouse often serves not only as a place where you walk, but also as a drain of water, which, in the absence of insulation and waterproofing, can rot very quickly and become covered with mold that is dangerous to health.

To visit the steam room to be as effective, useful and comfortable as possible, you need to know how to insulate the floor yourself. After all, the microclimate that forms in the bath itself, the dressing room and the rest room is so different that such a sharp temperature drop can adversely affect health, especially if you have small children.

*Important! If during the construction the issues of thermal and waterproofing were not taken into account, or if you got an already finished building for a bath, then you will have to completely dismantle the floor covering and re-equip the floor.

In this article, we will consider several options for thermal insulation, the choice of which depends on the material of the flooring (the most common are wood and concrete) and its structure (screed on the ground, on the floor, and so on). Usually they use modern technologies or folk methods, which for many years have not lost their relevance among the owners of country houses and cottages. We will also give you a couple of practical tips and recommendations for warming the floor in the bath with your own hands.

Material selection

Since the bath is the place where there is an increased level of moisture and temperature, professional builders recommend taking the choice of heat-insulating material very seriously, because it depends on its quality and proper installation whether the steam room will be in operation for many years without causing unnecessary trouble.

*Important! The main characteristic when choosing a heater is the level of its hydrophobicity, that is, the level of water absorption.

The choice of insulation depends on the material from which the floor is made. There is also a universal insulation with an excellent price-to-quality ratio - polystyrene foam and its twin brother - polystyrene foam. Due to their lightness, they can be easily cut into pieces of the required size, while both materials do not absorb moisture and have low thermal conductivity. In addition to these two, there are a large number of other materials:

• Mineral and glass wool. They are used only for warming concrete floors. When used for wood decking, it is important to wrap the wadding in a thick layer of waterproofing because the wadding absorbs moisture very well and quickly loses its thermal insulation properties. And when wet, the structure quickly collapses;
• Expanded clay. It is used only for warming concrete floors. It has similar characteristics with glass wool, requires an additional layer of hydro and vapor barrier. Expanded clay is used both in pure form and in the form of a mixture with cement. After the solution, the space between the lower and upper cement screed is poured.
• Perlite. Material in the form of sand or dust, which is mixed with cement, water and poured between cement floor screeds. After hardening, it has a porous structure. Less commonly used for wood flooring. After hardening, perlite acquires a cellular structure, allowing to reduce heat loss in the steam room.

*Interesting! As a replacement for the above raw materials, no less high-quality analogues are sometimes used - building felt, cinder block and foam concrete.

Wooden floor insulation

Immediately before starting, some preparatory work should be carried out, namely:

• Carry out the dismantling of the flooring, remove all the logs, and if you plan to use them after insulation, we recommend numbering all the boards;
• All floorboards must be inspected for defects, chips, cracks and fungus. If this was found, it is better to replace the floorboard completely;

*Advice! When you lay the flooring back after all the manipulations, do not forget to leave a gap of 3-4 cm between the top layer of insulation and the wooden blocks. This will prevent the boards from deforming, and there will also be an additional layer of ventilation.

If the bath was built on soil with a high level of moisture, an ordinary roofing material is suitable as a waterproofing material. It must be laid so that the insulation layer does not have gaps and partially extends onto the walls.

Although wood is less durable than concrete, it is most often used to cover the floor in baths because of its environmental friendliness and high thermal insulation performance. The most popular trees for decking are:

• Poplar;
• Pine;
• Fir;

*Important! If the boards in the dressing room and other rooms are covered with an antiseptic to prevent the wood fibers from being resolved by fungal growths, then due to the high level of toxicity in the steam room itself, this should by no means be done.

The best choice as a heater would be a material with closed cells that do not allow moisture to pass through. The best option is expanded polystyrene, as well as its modern counterparts:

• Ecowool;
• Pena Aisinin.

This material is light, so it practically does not affect the weight of the entire wooden structure.

And so, the second step after the dismantling of the flooring. To lay a layer of insulation, it is necessary to create a support for the draft floor, increasing the lower edges of the log with bars smaller than the distance between the beams.

A layer of waterproofing is laid on the support of the subfloor, represented by a special membrane, which simultaneously protects against moisture and steam. If the bath is built on water soil, then a layer of roofing material is laid, which must necessarily overlap all the boards and climb the walls to a height of twenty centimeters along the perimeter of the steam room. It is better to seal the formed seams with a vapor barrier tape, you can buy it in a specialized store, the average price is 520 rubles per 10 meters (strip width 70 mm), and the joints with a construction stapler.

Next, either another subfloor or insulation is laid on top of the waterproofing layer. The thickness of the total layer is usually 200-250 mm, depending on how much it is necessary to reduce heat loss, and on the financial capabilities of the owners.

Another layer of hydro and vapor barrier is laid on top of the insulation. At this stage, the membrane can be replaced again with roofing material, and the resulting seams can be sealed with mastic.

At the final stage, the space near the drain pipe is filled with mounting foam. A finished floor is already laid on top.

*Interesting! In the shower room, you can not nail the finished floor to the base, but leave it as it is. This will allow from time to time to easily remove it and dry it from the moisture accumulated there.

concrete floor insulation

Concrete flooring is very popular because of its durability. Due to its high strength, annual refurbishment of the floor can reduce costs. It usually consists of concrete slabs, blocks of mineral wool, polystyrene, as well as the aforementioned expanded clay are used for insulation. It is necessary to start warming only after carrying out work on the preparation of the lower cement screed (subfloor).

We lay the first layer of waterproofing. The easiest to install and inexpensive option would be to use a durable layer of polyethylene or roofing material. We spread the film around the entire perimeter of the steam room (it should protrude 5-6 centimeters onto the walls, later the extra edges can be easily cut off).

Insulation is laid on the waterproofing layer. For a more reliable fixation, you can fasten a wooden frame to the semi-draft using self-tapping screws or other fasteners.

As with the insulation of a wooden coating, we lay another waterproofing layer on the thermal insulation layer. When laying, the sheets are laid with an overlap of 10 cm and connected with a stapler.

At this stage, the last layer is poured with a special solution no more than two centimeters thick, then a reinforcing mesh is placed, which is located on special plastic supports.

After complete drying, using a self-leveling mixture, lay the final rough screed 5-8 centimeters thick. It is leveled using a special device - a needle roller, which removes all air bubbles. Sometimes, at the request of the owners, instead of a finishing screed, a layer of ceramic tiles or porcelain stoneware is laid.

Other premises

In addition to the steam room and shower room, there is also a dressing room in the bathhouse. The amount of moisture in it is several times less, therefore, when insulating, you can not lay a layer of hydroprotection, that is, it is enough to insulate the space between the rough and finish screed.

In the case when the bath has already been built, professional builders recommend not dismantling the floor covering, but simply performing insulation on top of the existing one. Of course, the volume and height of the room will decrease by raising the floor by ten to fifteen centimeters, but the room will heat up faster and stay warm longer.

Folk methods

• Straw. For floor insulation, you can also use straw, but only rye. It must be mixed with liquid clay in a ratio of 1x1. You have to mix the clay manually or with your feet. With the resulting solution, fill the earthen base in the bath, level it and wait for it to dry completely.
• Sawdust. The processing process is identical to that of straw. Sawdust can be used for any tree species, but coniferous are best. Because they contain special resinous substances in their fibers, which, when heated, are released into the air and thereby slow down the process of decay and the spread of moisture.
• Bulk heaters. As a heater, you can use expanded clay, slag from factories, and so on. Raw materials are poured, usually on an earthen base 5-10 cm thick. From above, the layer must be compacted and poured with a thick layer of clay (10-15 cm, or more).

*Interesting! If it's cold for you to stand on the floor, then the easiest and cheapest option would be to buy special wooden gratings. You can easily make them yourself, just make sure that there are no nails sticking out of anywhere, and also process the boards to get rid of knots. In stores, you can also buy special rubberized mats.

Let's summarize

If you have your own sauna, so that nothing interferes with a friendly warm atmosphere, in order to reduce the cost of fuel for heating the room, in order to reduce the time it takes to warm up the bath to the required temperature, you should think about insulation initially, during construction. But even if this issue was not taken into account, then it will not be difficult to dismantle the floor covering, and then insulate it.