A stove is a multifunctional, technically complex structure. Within its boundaries, fuel is processed, heat is produced and combustion products are removed to the outside. If you plan to lay a stove with your own hands, you must strictly follow the rules that have been proven in practice for centuries to guarantee the normal operation of the unit.
Those who want to know how to ideally build a brick stove will find here detailed information on all important issues of interest independent master. In the presented article, the technological specifics of the structure are presented in great detail, the main postulates of stove makers and significant nuances are scrupulously listed.
The information we provide will help effective assistance in the construction brick oven. All its components will perform their duties flawlessly, and the structure itself will last for many years no complaints. To help home craftsmen, we have selected sequence diagrams, photographs, and video recommendations.
Before you start building a stove, you should decide on its purpose. Heating, cooking and drying units have significant design differences that must initially be taken into account. There is also a reasonable difference in the procedures developed by stove makers for precise brick laying.
There are many stove designs that can be divided into groups according to their purpose:
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Stove heating as a method of heating private households is still popular. Since it is quite difficult to find a professional stove maker, many country property owners are forced to master the construction of brick stoves with their own hands.
To build heating unit in accordance with all rules and regulations, homeowners will need to stock up on relevant knowledge and skills, prepare tools and purchase building materials for a significant amount.
Types of furnaces
A DIY brick stove for your home can be:
- Russian;
- Swedish;
- Dutch.
Furnaces are also distinguished:
- baths;
- garden;
- heating;
- heating and cooking;
- fireplaces.
Russian stove
Among stove makers, it is considered the most multifunctional brick structure. It is equipped with a place to rest, called a couch. Under it there is a cooking chamber - a firebox or crucible, under which there is an ash pan. It must provide continuous burning solid fuel. These DIY brick ovens also have a niche for kitchen utensils and keeping cooked food hot.
The standard dimensions of this type of furnace units are: 2 meters high, 2.5 meters long and 1.5 meters wide. Due to its impressive size, the Russian stove is capable of heating living space, the area of which exceeds 40 “squares”. But it also has a big drawback - it requires a lot of solid fuel to function.
Swedish stove
Its dimensions are more compact compared to the Russian stove. The height of the Swedish brick structure is approximately 2 meters, and the length and width are no more than a meter. This small DIY brick oven is intended for:
- for space heating;
- for cooking.
A cast iron stove with 2 burners is placed above the firebox of the Swedish unit, and an oven is placed on the side. During the construction of the stove, a stove is built in the kitchen, and the rest of it is installed in another room.
A serious design disadvantage is the high degree of fire danger. To prevent fire, the Swedish stove is equipped with dampers.
Dutch oven
To your appearance this type stove units is obliged to Russian stove makers, it was they who came up with it. The “Dutch” is intended for heating the premises. The stove is very compact and different high degree heat transfer. To fully warm up with its help cold room, it will take 10 hours.
During the off-season, a DIY brick Dutch oven can retain heat for 24 hours. Her structural device provides high heat transfer due to the winding chimney. In addition, the stove has a spacious firebox.
"Dutch" is built only using kiln brick, which accumulates heat quickly and releases gradually. This building material for building stoves is very expensive.
How to lay out the oven and what you need for this
Having examined the stove designs and made a choice, you can proceed to the next stage. Besides design design, the furnace structure must meet fire safety requirements, which is why the preparation stage for its construction is so important, which involves:
- Development of a detailed diagram for laying a stove with or without a stove.
- Determining the installation location of the structure.
- Selection of materials.
- A selection of tools.
- Drawing up construction cost estimates.
In addition to the above measures, you need to decide on the number of auxiliary workers, and perhaps they are not needed.
The final result of construction depends on how competently the design of a house with stove heating is developed. Now you don’t have to develop diagrams - drawings of the furnace with your own hands, but purchase ready-made documentation. When choosing such a project, you need to make sure that the figures indicated in it are reliable; it also wouldn’t hurt to make sure that there is a phased detailed description carrying out construction.
When choosing a location for a stove, first of all, pay attention to the area of the room and the design of the stove. Since the process of laying a brick stove in a country house or in a house has many nuances, experienced stove makers advise novice craftsmen to build scaled-down models of future units.
Thanks to this, you can prepare for the upcoming laying and minimize errors and miscalculations. When are they chosen? complex designs stoves - laying stoves with your own hands can be an overwhelming task for inexperienced craftsmen. In this case, you should seek help from professionals.
Selection and purchase of building materials
Regardless of what type of stove is to be built, the same materials are used - bricks, clay, sand. The main attention should be paid to the choice of brick.
There are 4 types of bricks for sale for the construction of furnace units:
- hand molding;
- ceramic;
- refractory;
- silicate.
For cladding the unit use ceramic products. It is advisable to purchase M-250 or M-500 brick, which is more expensive, but more uniform than cheap products. It is able to withstand multiple heating-cooling cycles. Expensive brick has another advantage - excellent molding properties and decorative qualities.
Sand, when you build a brick stove with your own hands for a dacha or private household, you need to take it clean, without debris and various impurities, and therefore it needs to be sifted through a sieve.
Clay for kiln units can be normal, thin or oily. The proportions for preparing the mortar and the technology for laying bricks depend on which variety is chosen. Stove makers prefer to use clay that has a normal fat content.
Preparing tools
To build a stove with your own hands in a country house or in a residential building, you will need different instruments: construction, measuring and auxiliary.
Construction tools needed:
- for cutting bricks - a grinder;
- for sifting sand - a metal sieve with a cell no larger than 2 millimeters;
- shovel;
- to compact the mortar - jointing;
- for laying the mixture - combined kerma;
- a hammer drill plus a mixer attachment for it;
- for cutting bricks - a hammer-pick.
You also need to prepare measuring instruments:
- tape measure at least 5 meters long;
- to control verticality - a plumb line;
- a wooden stove ruler about a meter long;
- to check the evenness of the installation - the rule (there can be no gaps between it and the wall);
- construction and flexible levels.
TO auxiliary tools include buckets, containers, etc.
Arrangement of the base for a brick kiln
When we install a stove with our own hands, first of all we ensure a distance between the chimney pipe and the roof covering of at least 15 centimeters. Then you can start marking the foundation, which must exceed the parameters furnace design in all directions by 15 centimeters.
It is better to form it when arranging the common building foundation. In order for the stove to serve for a long time, its foundation should not be connected to the foundation of the household. The fact is that their natural shrinkage is different due to varying degrees loads
First, the foundation pit is filled with concrete, and then the foundation for the furnace is built from bricks. Wooden formwork is pre-installed.
When the base is ready, its top level should be 19 centimeters below the floor surface. The foundation is not built for the fireplace, but the load on the floor of the upper floors is calculated. The base must be waterproofed using roofing felt or roofing felt.
Laying a brick stove for a home
First of all, you need to study the drawings of a brick stove with your own hands. Then prepare the solution and lay the first row using a spatula and trowel. Often, novice home craftsmen are sure that they should not “spar” the solution. In fact, on the contrary - the thinner the layer, the stronger the brickwork will be.
The work is carried out as follows:
- Hold the brick suspended with one hand.
- Applying light blows, mark the place of the chip.
- Holding the brick suspended, they sharply and accurately cut it into pieces according to the marked marks.
- When you build a wood-burning stove with your own hands for a summer house or home, the first row must be laid out impeccably. First, the outer row of bricks is laid, then the middle, and the seams are carefully filled with mortar, preventing the formation of voids.
- The initial rows are built from whole material, and the vertical seams should not coincide. But then the bricks need to be cut. They are laid with the chopped side inside the solid structure. This point is important when constructing chimney channels and fireboxes. The fact is that the chips will be the place where soot accumulates, clogging the chimney.
Features of building arches and vaults with your own hands
When constructing arches and vaults, they also use do-it-yourself drawings of a brick kiln for a summer house or other building. The bricks are laid using the gradual overlap technology, with a thickness of at least two rows.
The thickness of such an overlap cannot be less than 2 rows. For the opening of the firebox, a “lock” layout or masonry using the “lintel” method is used - the bricks are installed vertically on a metal corner. A metal product can be replaced with a wooden frame.
To construct the pipe, silicate brick is used, which can withstand temperature changes and precipitation. It is resistant to the acidic environment formed when smoke and water vapor come into contact. It is important that there are no unevenness or chips in the chimney. When the stove structure is ready, a control fire is carried out after 2 - 3 weeks.
Large and small DIY brick stoves are popular in private homes. But the main thing is to build the unit correctly so that it lasts for decades.
Despite the modern abundance of heating and kitchen equipment, many owners cannot imagine a private home without a stove - and this is absolutely right. Even if you plan to create an autonomous heating system, then a stove would also be useful. For example, in order to save money in the spring or autumn, when full heating is no longer needed, but you also don’t want to create excessive dampness in the house. By heating the stove once a day or every two days, you can maintain optimal balance humidity and heat.
Build the oven yourself step by step instructions which has intricate configurations - it will be quite difficult for a beginner. Therefore, if there is no experience in the stove business, then it is better to choose an affordable ordering option that will be easy to understand.
When choosing a model, you need to take into account not only the simplicity of the design, but also the heat transfer and functionality of the stove, since there are stoves that do not provide all the functions. Heat transfer is selected depending on the area that the heating structure must heat.
There are quite a lot of stove models, since experienced stove makers, working on one of them, make their own adjustments to its design, and thanks to this, new and new options appear heating device. And in order to choose one type of stove, you need to know what they are in terms of functionality.
Prices for fireclay bricks for laying stoves
fireclay brick
Types of brick kilns
There are T There are three main types - heating and cooking, cooking and simply heating without additional built-in elements.
- A heating and cooking stove can have not only hob, but an oven and a tank for heating water, as well as a drying niche. In addition, such a structure can heat one or two rooms of a certain area.
Such stoves are often built into the wall, turning the hob and firebox towards the kitchen, and the back wall towards the living room. Thus, the oven performs a triple function - it works as a partition, food is cooked on it, and it gives dry heat in the bedroom or living room.
- They work only for heating, and most often have a compact size. Such a stove is installed precisely in order to maintain the balance of moisture and heat in the house in the fall or spring, when it is too early to turn on independent heating or have not yet turned on the central one.
It is good to install such a stove, for example, in a country house, if there is a device on which you can cook food. If the power supply in a holiday village is often turned off, then it is still better to choose a building with a hob for installation.
- The cooking version of the stove can also be used for heating if you need to heat a small area. The device is perfect for country house or for a small building for permanent residence.
Having such a stove and a supply of firewood, you don’t have to worry that the house will be cold and damp, and the family will be left without dinner or hot tea if the electricity or gas is cut off.
It should be noted that any type of oven can be compact or massive. The choice of the size of the stove structure depends on the area of the house or room, as well as the space allocated for construction.
Choosing a place to install the stove
When choosing a place to build a furnace, you need to consider nuances that are important not only for creating comfortable conditions operation, but also for fire safety reasons. It is especially important to think about location stoves in an already built house, since the chimney pipe should not bump into beams when erecting it attic floor or on rafter legs roofs.
The stove is installed near the inner load-bearing wall, in the middle of the room or built into a wall located inside the house.
- It is not recommended to build a stove near external wall, since it will quickly cool down, and the efficiency of its use will be significantly reduced.
- In the middle large room the stove is installed if it is necessary to divide the room into two zones. Moreover, with a beautiful decorative finishing it will decorate the house and can become one of the elements for the interior that will emphasize a certain style.
- When building a stove into a partition between rooms, you must ensure that it is insulated from flammable wall materials using heat-resistant asbestos sheets or special plasterboard.
- The space allocated for the stove should be 120 ÷ 150 mm in each direction larger than its base, since the perimeter of the foundation is always slightly larger than the size of the stove.
- To make it easier to determine the size, you need to choose a model that comes with an ordering diagram.
When the model has been selected and the installation location has been determined, you can proceed to purchasing materials and preparing all the necessary tools. The quantity and range of materials for each model is selected individually, but the tools used for laying are always the same.
Tools for getting the job done
For the process of constructing a furnace, you will need the following devices and tools:
A) The pick is used for hewing and splitting bricks.
B) A stove hammer has the same functions as a pick, but, in addition, it is convenient for removing dried mortar that has protruded beyond the masonry.
B) The rule is used to level the concrete on the surface of the foundation. Often it is made independently from a perfectly smooth planed board.
D) A wooden spatula is used to grind and mix the clay solution.
D) Level - necessary tool, as it will help maintain the evenness of the rows, both horizontally and vertically.
E) A sponge brush is used to remove sand and hardened mortar from the internal surfaces of the oven.
G) Pliers are used to bite and bend steel wire when installing and fixing cast iron elements buildings.
H) A lead scriber is used for markings when finishing the stove with tiles.
I) Stukaltse - a piece of pipe used to fit tiles.
K) Scribbler-rod for markings.
K) The rasp is used to grind in lumps and remove sagging on finished masonry.
M) The construction angle is necessary to bring out the internal and external corners 90 degrees.
H) A plumb line is used to check the verticality of walls.
A) A rubber hammer is used to tap bricks laid in a row.
P) A chisel is needed for disassembly old masonry and brick splitting.
P) Trowels or trowels are used to remove excess mortar and apply it to courses of brick during masonry work.
C) Jointing will be needed if the stove will not be lined finishing material, and the seams between the rows will be neatly formed.
In addition, you will need two containers for the solution and water, as well as a sieve for sand if the solution is made independently.
Laying the upper rows will be easier if there are “goats”
For the convenience of carrying out work, you need to have a scaffold, which is also called “goats”. It is convenient to stand on them when laying masonry at a height, especially since the size of the working platform provides space for installing a container with mortar.
Arrangement of the foundation for the furnace
- The foundation for the furnace is usually laid together with the general foundation for the entire structure, but they should not be connected to each other, since when deformed or shrinking, one of them can damage the other.
- If the furnace is to be erected in an area already built on a belt or columnar foundation house with wooden floor, then you will have to open the covering and build a foundation under the stove from the ground.
- If you select compact model stoves, and there is a slab foundation under the house, then the heating structure can be erected directly on it by making a waterproofing lining.
If the foundation Sun However, you will have to arrange it “from scratch”; you need to remember that it must have the same shape as the base of the stove, but protrude beyond it by 120–150 mm in each direction.
- On wooden the floor is marked the contour of the foundation, a part of the plank covering is cut out according to the markings.
- Next, a pit is dug in the underground soil the right size, depth 450÷500 mm.
- The soil at the bottom of the pit is well compacted, and a sand bedding is made on it, which is moistened with water and also compacted to a thickness of 80–100 mm.
Pit for a furnace foundation with a sand and gravel “cushion”
- After this, roofing felt can be laid around the perimeter of the pit, which will serve as waterproofing and formwork if it is temporarily reinforced with boards or bricks. After hardening concrete mortar the formwork is removed from the foundation.
Instead of roofing felt, you can use formwork made of boards covered from the inside with polyethylene sheeting.
It should be noted right away that it is better if the concrete base for the stove rises 70 ÷ 100 mm above the floor. This way you can save bricks and simplify the joining of the floor surface and the side walls of the foundation.
- A layer of crushed stone of the same thickness is poured on top of the sand and is also well compacted.
- The next step is to install a reinforcing grid at the bottom of the pit, made of metal wire or ready-made mesh. The lattice elements are connected to each other using twisted wire.
Foundation reinforcement - option
- The first layer of solution is poured into the prepared pit. It may consist of crushed stone, sand and cement- 1:2:1 or gravel and cement 3:1. This layer should occupy approximately ⅓ of the filled space.
- After pouring the first layer, immediately mix and pour the second layer, consisting of sand and cement in proportions 3:1.
The second layer is poured to such a height that 50 mm remains to the top, which will be required for the upper leveling layer of the foundation.
If necessary, for the top layer of concrete, the formwork can be expanded and then laid on top of the poured mortar reinforcing mesh, having cells of 70÷80 mm.
- Then the last top layer of mortar is poured and leveled using the rule.
The foundation is left for concrete to mature for 27–30 days. It is advisable to moisten it with water daily and then cover it with plastic film - this will help make the concrete more monolithic and durable.
After removing the formwork, two or three layers of roofing material are laid on the finished foundation, which will protect the brickwork of the furnace from capillary moisture coming from the ground or from the underground.
After this, you can proceed to the main work - laying the stove.
Several recommendations for masonry work
- Before you start laying bricks on the mortar, the entire structure is raised dry from brick, but each of the rows must be laid out strictly in accordance with the order diagram.
Experienced stove makers advise preliminary dry laying to be carried out by all craftsmen who are taking on the construction of a stove for the first time. This event is necessary in order to understand the location of all internal channels and not commit gross mistakes when adjusting bricks in each row.
To carry out dry masonry you need to stock up wooden slats, which will determine the thickness of the seam between the bricks. Typically their thickness is 5-7 mm. The same lath will need to be used for the main masonry, carried out with mortar. Such “calibration” of the thickness of the seam is especially necessary if the masonry is being done “for jointing” and must be flawless.
This process is carried out slowly and thoughtfully, since it is very important to understand how the smoke will be removed from the firebox and how it will get into the chimney pipe.
- Having lifted the structure dry before laying the pipe, it is carefully dismantled. If the bricks were adjusted to size at the same time, then each row can be folded into a separate stack by marking the row number and place in it on the bricks with a marker.
- When performing the main masonry, each of the rows is also first laid out dry, and then, after carefully adjusting all the parts, it is mounted on the mortar.
- When the main laying is carried out, two measuring strips are laid on the edges of the previous row to maintain the exact thickness of the seam. Then the solution is applied in a layer of 10÷12 mm. A brick is laid on top of the mortar, pressed, and, if necessary, tapped rubber mallet until the brick hits the measuring rod. The excess solution that appears is picked up with a trowel.
- The slats are pulled out of the masonry after installing the third ÷ fourth row above them, and then used again. Therefore, you need to prepare several pairs of these auxiliary elements.
- Having pulled out the slats, the seams are carefully filled with mortar and immediately “unstitched”.
- When laying the mortar, each row is checked using a building level to ensure compliance with the horizontal and vertical planes.
Compliance with these nuances will help simplify the process of constructing any furnace and avoid “fatal” mistakes that may lead to the need to redo the entire work.
Heating and cooking furnace with drying chamber designed by Yu. Proskurina
As mentioned above, there is large number different models ovens. This publication will consider one of the compact and functional options, which can be set to small house, since it does not take up much space, but is capable of heating a room with an area of 16 ÷ 17 m².
The design of the Yu. Proskurin stove is a double-turn heating and cooking option, equipped with a single-burner stove and a drying chamber designed for drying vegetables and fruits, medicinal herbs, mushrooms, etc.
If desired, a box can be installed in the niche of the drying chamber oven suitable size.
The stove has dimensions (excluding the height of the chimney pipe) 750×630×2070 mm. Its heat output is 1700 kcal/h. The design provides two operating modes - summer and winter, which is very important both for fuel economy and for the ability to heat the stove and cook food, without heating everything structures in the summer.
List of required materials
In order to build such a heating structure, you will need the following materials:
| Name of materials and elements | Quantity (pcs.) | Element dimensions (mm) |
|---|---|---|
| Red brick M-200 (excluding pipe laying) | 281 ÷ 285 | - |
| Fire-resistant fireclay brick, grade Ш-8 | 82 ÷ 85 | - |
| Fire door | 1 | 210×250 |
| Doors for cleaning channels | 2 | 140×140 |
| Blower door | 1 | 140×250 |
| Summer damper for chimney | 1 | 130×130 |
| Fire valve | 1 | 130×130 |
| Stove valve | 1 | 130×130 |
| grate | 1 | 200×300 |
| Single burner hob | 1 | 410×340 |
| Steel strip | 1 | 40×260×5 |
| 1 | 40×350×5 | |
| 1 | 40×360×5 | |
| Steel corner | 1 | 40×40×635 |
| 3 | 40×40×510 | |
| 4 | 40×40×350 | |
| Roofing iron | 1 | 380×310 |
| Pre-furnace metal sheet | 1 | 500×700 |
In addition, the work will require clay, sand, cement, crushed stone, gravel, marl and an oven box, if it is decided to install an oven instead of a drying niche.
Scheme of construction of a furnace designed by Yu. Proskurin
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation being performed |
|---|---|
 | The first row is laid out as a continuous plane, respecting the location of the bricks. It is very important to lay this row perfectly evenly in all respects, since the quality of the masonry of the entire structure will depend on it. |
 | In the second row, a blower (ash) chamber and the base of two vertical channels are formed. The doors of the blower and cleaning chambers are installed on the same row. |
 | The metal doors have special ears into which pieces of steel wire are threaded and twisted - they will then be embedded in the seams between the bricks. Temporarily, until they are completely secured, the doors are supported with bricks on one or both sides. |
 | On the third row, the formation of the blower chamber and the lower part of the chamber of vertical channels continues. At the same time, the installed doors are secured on both sides. |
 | On the fourth row, the doors of the blower and cleaning chambers are completely blocked with bricks. The common chamber of the vertical channels is divided in two, so instead of one big hole, two are formed, measuring ⅔ of a brick in length and half a brick in width. |
 | The fifth row is completely laid out with fireclay bricks. A hole is formed above the ash chamber with seat for the grate. To do this, a part of the brick is cut out from the side on which it should be turned towards the hole above the blower chamber. |
 | The grate is also mounted on the same row. It is planted on a clay mortar or laid freely, without mortar. There should be a distance of 4-5 mm between it and the brick. |
 | On the sixth row, the formation of the combustion chamber and vertical channels continues. |
 | In addition, a combustion door is installed on the same row, the frame of which must be wrapped or lined with asbestos before installation, which, when the metal is heated, will allow it to expand without stress or damage. |
 | The seventh and eighth rows are laid out in order, and the formation of the firebox and vertical channels continues on them. |
 | On the ninth row, the fire door is covered with brick. Moreover, in order to remove the load from the ceiling from the door, the side and third bricks from the edge are ground off on one side and between them a brick is installed, hewn on both sides. |
 | On the tenth row, the fuel chamber and the first vertical channel are combined - this is done so that the hot smoke from the firebox is directed precisely into this created hole. To ensure smooth smoke flow, the protruding corner of the solid brick enclosing the second vertical channel is cut off. |
 | On the eleventh row, the masonry follows the pattern, except that at the edges of the bricks framing the combustion chamber, cutouts are made that will form a recess for mounting a single-burner hob. |
 | Then, on the same row, asbestos strips are laid on the cuts made on the bricks, and the slab panel is mounted on them. A steel corner is installed on the side where the cooking niche is formed. |
 | The 12th row is laid out of red brick, and in the future all masonry comes from it. Two vertical channels are formed again, and a niche is being formed around the hob. |
 | The 13th row is placed according to the diagram, but in the front part of the first vertical channel a place is formed for installing the summer-winter valve. After this, a valve is mounted on the clay-sand mortar. |
 | From rows 14 to 17, the masonry is carried out according to the same principle - a cooking niche and channels are formed. |
 | On the 18th row steel corners The cooking niche is being covered. One of them is mounted on the edge of the niche, the second - at a distance of a brick from the first, and the third is pressed against the second with its back side. This is done to make it convenient to lay the next row. |
 | On the 19th row, the cooking niche is completely covered, with the exception of the formation of the opening for the steam exhaust channel and the place for installing the valve. To do this, cutouts are made on the bricks into which the valve is mounted. |
 | Row 20 is laid out according to the pattern. The formation of two vertical channels and a steam exhaust hole continues on it. Moreover, if you look closely, you can see that one of the bricks forming the first vertical channel is cramped. |
 | On the 21st row, the first vertical channel and the steam exhaust channel are combined using the left hollow space. In this row, almost all bricks are placed only along the perimeter walls of the structure. Only the second vertical channel is protected. |
 | In the same row, the resulting cavity is covered with metal strips, which are laid according to the pattern shown in the figure. |
 | Next, a sheet of roofing iron is laid on the steel strips, with the help of which a chimney opening located in opposite side from the steam exhaust hole. |
 | On the 22nd row, the laying is done on top of the roofing sheet. A hole for the chimney and two holes for vertical channels are left. In the place where the drying niche will be formed, a piece of corner is laid, which will protect the brick on the edge of the chamber from damage and make the edge of the niche more neat. |
 | 23 row - formed drying chamber, and its rear wall is made of brick installed on its side. It will isolate the chamber from the opening of the chimney duct. |
 | On the 24th row, the walls of the drying chamber, chimney and two vertical channels are formed. |
 | Row 25 - work continues according to the diagram. The second brick of the back wall of the chamber is installed in the same way as the first. |
 | On the 26th row, preparations are underway to combine two vertical channels, so interior bricks in both holes they are ground at a slight angle. |
 | Row 27 - the first and second channels are combined with masonry. A common cleaning door is installed for them. The rest of the work goes according to the plan. |
 | On the 28th row, the drying chamber is covered with three pieces of corners according to the same principle as the covering of the cooking niche was done. The vertical channels are combined into one wide one, and the cleaning door is secured with side bricks. |
 | On row 29, the drying chamber and vertical channels are completely blocked. A hole in the chimney channel is left, which is lined with bricks with cut-out landing grooves for the chimney valve. After laying the row, a frame with a valve is installed on the clay-sand mortar. |
 | On the 30th row, the entire surface of the oven is completely covered. Only the chimney hole is left, which should be the size of half a brick. |
 | 31-32 row - formation begins chimney. |
This figure shows a cross-section of the oven. The diagram clearly shows all the internal channels through which heated air will circulate.
The construction of complex variants of furnace structures is a painstaking process that requires enormous patience, knowledge, skills and financial costs. Therefore, if you have the funds, it is recommended to use the help of professionals. And those who want to build a stove with their own hands should study the advice of experts on choosing a competent project and high-quality equipment.
Execution accurate calculations and strict adherence to the masonry scheme will allow you to obtain a reliable heating unit and, with its further use, will provide protection from fire and poisoning carbon monoxide. Consequently, any stove must meet the basic requirements - not smoke, provide heat and guarantee fire safety. For construction beginners, it is better to choose a simple model of the device in order to independently carry out high-quality masonry of the stove.
Construction tools and equipment
For installation work used:
- acute and rectangular sledgehammers;
- plumb line;
- brackets (mooring);
- combined trowel;
- hammer;
- tampers;
- spatula;
- level, square and tape measure;
- meter (folding);
- seam joints, markings for openings, templates for channels;
- brick and clay (red);
- cement;
- sand;
- grate;
- doors, stove (cast iron) and valves;
- aluminum and steel fittings (corners and strips).
Procedure
1. First stage.
To ensure the accuracy of the calculations, first lay the masonry according to the finished scheme of the unit, but without using the mixture. The stove is mounted on a foundation that complies with all technical safety rules. To do this, dig a pit (depth 1 m), where sand is poured (layer 11 cm), and concrete is loaded on top. After that, on the hardened surface, following the instructions, place a quadrangle of bricks, which will serve as the base for the furnace. Using a level, check the horizontalness of the masonry. A couple of bricks are moistened with water so that they are easier to bond with the mortar, they are placed on the mixture and pressed down (lightly), and the excess is removed with a spatula and the further construction process continues according to the same principle.
Roofing material (triple layer) is laid on the first level, which performs a waterproofing function. Before performing the 2nd row, attach the oven door, wrapped in wet asbestos cardboard, with special brackets. The third level should consist of fireclay bricks, and a grate is placed above the ash pit. Masonry building material on the 4th tier it occurs on the edge. A chimney is built inside the stove. On back surface device, the masonry is made without mixture so that its edges move slightly out of the main row, which will make it easier to clear debris from the hole for the passage of smoke.
The firebox door is wrapped with asbestos cord and secured to the 5th tier with bricks (temporarily) and wire. The material at this level of masonry, as in the main part of the furnace, is placed flat (along the contour of the previous layer). The edges of the sixth row of the device are hewn, the grate is attached flush, and the bricks are placed on the edge. It is recommended to wipe the chimney with a damp cloth. The brick (at the 7th level) is laid flat, and on back wall A couple of ovens are attached to the edge. The eighth tier of masonry covers the fire door.
2. Second stage.
Next, work on the stove continues according to the finished pattern until the beginning of the twelfth row. On this tier, a cast iron slab is mounted on the mortar (with a slight offset back), and an asbestos cord runs along the perimeter of the masonry, which is covered with corners on top. The support for the trays is provided by strips of steel, inserted into the walls of the cooking chamber and strengthened from the fourteenth row, through the next two, to the twentieth. This tier contains: a corner, a frame and an exhaust duct made of sheet iron. Before installing the chimney, the gap between its lining and the ceiling is filled with asbestos.
3. Third stage.
After making a heating unit with your own hands, the chimney is cleaned, temporary bricks are removed and painting work. The stove surface is dried before plastering and lime whitewash. A mixture of clay, asbestos, sand and cement is used as a coating. First, according to the instructions, a liquid layer of the composition is applied to the outer side of the masonry, and after it dries, a denser layer is applied. Whiten the stove with lime mortar and salt. Drying oil or oil dyes are not suitable for coating masonry, as when heated they emit fumes that are harmful to health.
1. When building a furnace with your own hands, strong and properly fired bricks should be used, with flat surface and without various damage, since its functioning and duration of use will depend on their quality. The strength of this material is determined independently. To do this, use a hammer to break one brick; if it breaks into large pieces, it means it is suitable for use in the masonry process. In the area where the fire is lit, a fire-resistant type is used that can withstand high heat.
2. The reliability of the furnace structure depends on the optimal ratio of sand and clay in the solution. A composition with a plastic and thick consistency is considered to be of high quality.
3. The thickness of the seams is from 3 to 5 mm.
4. Pre-prepared recesses in the bricks, intended for the installation of a grate, dampers and doors, provide the latter with longer operation. The depth of the grooves must correspond to the thickness of the casting.
5. The bricks on the masonry tiers are placed as close to each other as possible. During the construction of the furnace, the procedure is constantly checked with ready-made circuit devices, which allows you to control its exact compliance.
6. The gap between the masonry and the floor is hidden by installing an iron pre-furnace sheet or plinth. To protect the corners of the structure from possible damage, it is recommended to attach protective devices to the frames (using bolts).
7. It is permissible to begin operation 14 days after completion of installation work. It is recommended to start hardening the unit by burning thin wood chips to prevent it from cracking. After finishing the combustion process, following the operating instructions, the chimney is closed using valves.
Cost of materials and labor
Self-construction of a furnace is much cheaper compared to the services of a qualified worker. The minimum price for a master’s work starts at 25,000 rubles and is negotiated individually when concluding a contract. Payment for work and cost of masonry for various types stoves are determined taking into account their volume, design features and location in the house. The purchase price of building material and its quantity required for the construction of the selected type of structure, design and color scheme are the main indicators in determining the final payment. The types of cladding also play an important role. Finishing with tiles costs 1200–2500 rubles per 1 m2 (excluding the amount for masonry equipment).
Average cost of construction supplies:
The cost of bricks varies from 20 to 150 rubles per 1 piece. There is also a difference in prices when purchasing castings and other materials for masonry. If the firebox door Russian production costs 400 rubles, then imported - 4,000. One bag ready mixture for the construction of a furnace (consumption for 35 bricks) - 400. Estimated price masonry is determined only after careful study future design, taking all measurements.
During the construction of the stove, it may be necessary to purchase additional equipment. The cost calculation also takes into account the cost of delivery and unloading of masonry materials, which is assigned by carriers.
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This article contains clear, very detailed photo instructions for laying a brick oven with your own hands, tips on how not to make a mistake when choosing necessary materials and how to properly place a stove in a private home for optimal heating of a larger area.
Options for installing a stove in the house
The placement of the stove depends entirely on what exactly the owners expect from it. If it is installed in a small house and will be used as a fireplace for friendly gatherings, you can use the first scheme. This stove is a good option for cooking barbecue on the grill or kebabs.
Brick kiln placement options
The second scheme is for a house of solid square footage. IN in this case the front side of the fireplace stove opens into the living room, the stove walls heat both bedrooms, and the heat in the remaining rooms is maintained using heat exchange.
The third scheme with a stove for heating and cooking - budget option housing for a bachelor or a small family. Pros: a warm bed and the ability to place a dryer in the hallway.
Important: you should take care in advance external insulation at home, because it greatly increases the efficiency of stove heating.
Selection of bricks, sand, mortar
In order for the stove to serve for a long time, you need to select all the materials correctly. There are three types of bricks:
- Ceramic - can be used to build a stove.
- Silicate ones are generally not suitable in this case, even double M150.
- Fireproof - ideal, but they are often used only for fireboxes and fireplaces, varieties: fireclay, refractory bricks, etc.
Advice: when choosing a brick for a stove, you need to completely abandon the hollow types.
The solution is made from clay. Red clay is suitable if the stove is made of red brick; when using fireclay, special fireclay clay is required. Some stove makers still make their own solution from the old fashioned way. river sand with a grain of 1-1.5 mm, clay (in a ratio of 2.5:1) and water. It is advisable to use angular quarry sand without foreign inclusions and the so-called fatty clay. However, it is easier and more reliable to buy a ready-made baking mixture in the store, preparing it according to the instructions.
From the accessories you need to purchase grates, blower and combustion doors, soot cleaners, valves or dampers.
Preparation, list of tools
Before starting work, you need to determine and mark the place that the new stove will occupy.
The chimney pipe should be no closer than 15 cm from the roof rafters.
If you are doing masonry for the first time, professional stove makers advise you to practice in advance by making a model of the future stove from prepared bricks. Naturally, without a solution. This minimizes possible risks during real masonry, allowing you to learn from your mistakes, which can still be corrected in the layout.
The stove foundation requires preliminary waterproofing; its area must exceed the area of the stove.
When laying a new row, you need to control the absolute verticality of the walls.
To build a brick kiln, the following tools are needed:
- plumb line;
- trowel;
- roulette;
- spatula;
- Bulgarian;
- knitting wire;
- building level;
- metal strips, corners;
- containers for cement and clay mortar.
Step-by-step instructions with photos for laying a stove
Different stove makers have their own masonry technologies and their own secrets that come with years of experience. Here is information about enough in a simple way creating a stove-fireplace for heating two-story house, the process will not seem extremely difficult even to novice stove makers.
Foundation laying
Basic row brickwork will serve as the foundation. It is done with any brick; some stove makers even fill this level with crushed stone.
When laying the base row, cement mortar is used.
The foundation is completely filled with mortar, the layer is leveled.
Construction of the furnace body
The first row of stoves is marked. The horizontal line from which they start when marking is the wall of the room.
A grate is placed where the fireplace is planned to be placed. From this row, the bricks are already laid on the kiln mortar.
An important stage of work is the scrupulous alignment of each new row by level.
Laying the second row. The stove wall, located closest to the wall of the room, is reinforced with additional bricks to increase fire safety.
The place where it will be located in the 2nd row remains empty, the rest of the oven is filled in completely. A door is installed through which the owners will clean out the ash.
The door is installed on the solution and leveled. For a more reliable fixation, it is secured with wire, which must be laid between the bricks.
The grate is laid not on a simple brick, but on a refractory brick. So that it lies at the same level as the bricks, in fireclay bricks holes are cut.
The size of the brick can be easily adjusted - the excess is measured and carefully cut off.
The large door is mounted next to the installed grille.
The large oven door is similarly fixed using wire fasteners.
The first row of fireboxes is placed exactly above the fireplace, it is strengthened metal corners and a strip or thick tin. So that the masonry can lie on them, it is cut using a grinder, then the slots are adjusted manually to the desired size.
The next brick row is laid.
For refractory bricks on a par with brick row The fireplace grate is installed.
The door is fixed, the brick is strictly adjusted to it.
The firebox of the new stove and fireplace is ready.
Fire-resistant fireclay bricks are placed above the stove firebox.
The stove body is built.
Creating a chimney
The space left for the chimney is divided into wells. The design requires reinforcement with metal plates.
Stacked brick wells chimney
Soot cleaners are mounted above the firebox roof.
The wells are again divided, the first rows of walls should be reinforced with strips of metal.
After strengthening, the ceiling of the furnace body is erected. The space associated with the chimney remains empty.
The body cornice is laid out, then the chimneys are laid.
The final stage of work on the first floor. The stove is located at the bottom left, the smoke inside the chimneys moves in a spiral and comes out at the top left. The final separation of the wells is covered with a tin sheet. In order to compensate for the pressure inside the fireplace stove, 2 brick rows are laid on the tin.
There are two chimneys stretching to the second floor of the house - from the fireplace and the stove itself, they are separated from each other. Each chimney requires the installation of a separate damper.
Floor level of the second floor. Waterproofing is installed here, the chimney is again reinforced with metal corners. To save money and avoid building a heating stove on the second floor, the chimney of the stove under construction is again divided. The smoke will snake through it, managing to warm up the room. In order for the chimney to warm up much faster, it is laid in the area of the second floor with a thickness of 1/4 or 1/2 brick.
A hole for the stove chimney is carefully cut out in the roof.
Before placing the chimney on the roof, it is reinforced with metal corners.
If the chimney is located in close proximity to the roof ridge, it must be laid out at least 0.5 meters above the ridge. If further, then the height of the chimney is allowed equal to the height of the ridge, but not lower. In this case, the wind increases the stove draft, lifting the smoke upward.
Even a small stove in the house means coziness and comfort. Larger stoves require more skill and additional materials, however, the principle of their construction is similar to the method described above.
