Whitewashing the walls with chalk with the addition of color. How to whitewash walls with lime. How to remove old limescale

It is obtained by burning mountain limestone in specially equipped kilns. As a result of the thermal process, lumps of lime of various sizes are obtained at the output, retaining their strength in the air. Lime has been used in construction for a long time, quenching lumps with water allows them to be dissolved, resulting in a white solution.

Lime is one of the most inexpensive materials for redecorating premises. Lime solution is used both for whitewashing the interior of the house, and for outbuildings.

The benefits of using lime include:

• Low cost, experts estimate the price of lime in lumps at five points, cheaper and at the same time high-quality finishing material is quite difficult to find.
• Lime has antimicrobial properties, that is, bacteria that get on its surface die. This property of the raw material successfully allows whitewashing with lime in pet rooms, outdoor toilets.
• Lime is moisture resistant and does not crack when exposed to temperature changes. Walls treated with slaked lime are not afraid of fungus and mold, these microorganisms simply do not settle on this raw material.
• The natural material is safe for health, it does not have a strong odor and does not emit substances harmful to breathing, on the contrary, after using lime, the room is partially disinfected.
• This material can be applied both on old whitewash and on new walls.

In the process of whitewashing, after the lime layer has dried, a special film is formed on its surface, which prevents fading and increases the resistance of the walls to abrasion.

Another feature of slaked lime is its good miscibility with dyes, that is, as a result of dilution of raw materials with paint, any shade can be obtained.

How to extinguish lime at home

It is best to buy lime for the planned repair in the form of lumps. Such raw materials are stored for a sufficiently long time, and it can be prepared for use in a short time. In order for the result of dilution to be a solution that will suit concentration and uniformity, you need to know the basic rules for preparing it from and be sure to follow safety precautions when working.

Rules for extinguishing lumps of lime at home:

1. For whitewashing walls and ceilings, the so-called milk of lime is used. It is easy to prepare - you need one part lime and about three parts cold water.
2. Large lumps of lime should be crushed, but not crumbled, and placed in a metal container.
3. Water is poured into a container with lime, the solution must be stirred.
4. After contact with water, a dissolution reaction occurs during which lime can boil and splash. Therefore, in the first 10-20 minutes, the container must be closed or moved to a safe distance. It is not superfluous to use goggles and gloves, as splashes of the solution can cause burns.
5. The prepared lime should settle for at least 6 hours, during which time it will completely dissolve.
6. After preparation, the solution is filtered through a sieve. Thus, all undissolved elements and small debris are removed.
7. Lime milk is completely ready for use. To increase strength and so that in the future lime on the walls does not stain clothes, experts advise adding ordinary salt and drying oil to the solution. The amount of drying oil and salt is chosen from the volume of the resulting solution, 100 grams of both are enough for 10 liters.

If the solution turned out to be thick, then it can be diluted with water to the desired proportions. Hue dyes are introduced in dissolved form, in order to give the lime an exceptionally snow-white appearance, it is advised to add a little blue to it.

Extinguishing lime is not a laborious process, but it is not safe. When extinguishing lime, safety precautions must be observed. Extinguish in the open air, in free space, be sure to wear glasses, gloves and special clothing:

Whitewash equipment

Whitewashing can be done in different ways. Previously, there was only one way to distribute lime on surfaces - this was the use of brushes. Modern technologies make it possible to reduce the time spent on repairing premises using lime milk, a brush is now most often used if it is necessary to whitewash small surfaces.

You can make your job easier by using the following tools:

• The spray gun can be manual, electric or pneumatic. If you are not going to process large surfaces, then it will be most economical to buy a manual type of spray gun. The principle of operation of the devices is similar, one hose of the apparatus is immersed in the solution, lime is taken through it and fed through the accumulator to another hose. At the end of this hose there is a nozzle, it is through it that lime is released. The size and speed of the jet can be adjusted. You can buy a manual spray gun from about one and a half thousand rubles, electric versions of the device are much more expensive. The use of an airbrush simplifies painting work, whitewashing with its help is carried out much faster, while the supplied jet easily penetrates into hard-to-reach places.
• The apparatus for whitewashing with lime is used for processing large surfaces. Its principle of operation is the same as that of the spray gun, the capacity can be up to 100 liters.
• You can use a whitewash sprayer that is used for spraying plants. Only its capacity should be in the range from 5 to 15 liters.

Any apparatus for mechanizing the whitewashing process can reduce repair time and ensure the uniformity of lime layers. Laboriousness when using them is minimal, any person will understand the device and its principle, while it becomes possible to paint high ceilings without using a stepladder.

When using spray guns, the consumption of lime is also reduced, since large drops do not fall on the floor and furniture. The only condition is the use of a high-quality solution without impurities and lumps, otherwise the device may become clogged and fail.

This is what the equipment listed above looks like

Manual spray gun Electric spray gun Whitewash gun Whitewash machine

Do-it-yourself whitewashing rules

To process the desired surfaces with lime, no special skills are required, even using this material for the first time in the process, you can easily learn. But still, it is necessary to take into account some nuances and then the repair will be fast, safe and of sufficient quality.

Wall whitewashing

Lime walls can be whitewashed both indoors and outdoors. Whitewashing the outside of the house is most quickly done with an airbrush. In order for the lime to lie well, not change its color and not swell, you must first prepare the walls.

Rust stains, dirt, greasy areas are removed from the surfaces. If there are cracks, they must be treated with a primer, good adhesion of lime to the walls is ensured by their processing with a metal brush. Lime does not adhere to the paint, so the layer of old paint must be removed.

Whitewashing is best done in cloudy weather, bright sunlight distorts perception and does not allow you to achieve smooth strokes. Using the spray gun, you need to hold it at an angle to the wall of 90 degrees, this will ensure both a lower consumption of the solution and evenness of its application.

The video shows how you can whitewash the walls with lime using a spray gun:

Cellar whitewashing

Using lime to treat all surfaces in a cellar designed to store food is considered the best option. Lime destroys all microorganisms, disinfects the room, prevents the appearance of fungus, due to these factors, the shelf life of products increases, vegetables do not rot. Lime is resistant to moisture, therefore it protects the walls of the cellar from moisture.

The cellar is whitewashed with a fairly thick solution of lime; both spray guns and brushes can be used. Sprayers are usually used in large areas, but safety precautions must be observed when using them.

The airbrush creates clouds of tiny particles of lime, in an enclosed space, such as a cellar, this cloud negatively affects the mucous tissues of the respiratory organs and eyes. To avoid harm to the body, you need to wear tight-fitting goggles and a respirator.

If the cellar is whitewashed for the first time, then it is advisable to apply a second one after applying the first layer and drying it.

Furnace whitewashing

In some private houses, waiting rooms and other rooms there are brick walls. Whitewashing with lime is the most practical option for their quick repair. Furnace surfaces quickly become soiled with soot, grease and therefore require regular updating.

Lime can be used at any time, especially since a brush can also be used for small surfaces. In order for the solution to be easily even, it is necessary that the oven is cooled down, and all greasy stains are removed with sandpaper or a scraper.

How you can whitewash and decorate the stove with lime can be seen in the photo below

Furnace #1 Furnace #2 Furnace #3 Furnace #4 Furnace #5

Facade whitewashing

It is easiest to whitewash the facades of buildings and houses using spray guns. Windows, doors, decorative elements need to be closed, and you need to start whitewashing from the highest points, moving down. It is advisable to whitewash the outer walls in calm, cloudy weather.

Ceiling whitewash

Separately, whitewashing the ceiling with lime is carried out if the remaining walls have wallpaper or other finishing material. If you plan to change the wallpaper, then you first need to remove the old ones, then whitewash the ceiling and only then paste over the walls again. All old coatings must be removed from the ceiling, cracks repaired, and dirt cleaned. Rust and mold are well removed with a solution of copper sulfate.

Lime milk is the easiest and most even to lay on a wetted surface, so it is desirable to moisten the ceiling. After preparing the ceiling, you need to close the floor, furniture, windows with waterproof materials, since lime is well sprayed and hard to wipe off when dried.

The ceiling is whitewashed in two layers. The first layer begins to be applied from the window, making strokes perpendicular to the light. The second layer is applied to the still wet first, strokes are made parallel to the sun's rays. This technology of whitewashing ensures the adhesion of lime and the absence of streaks.

Repair lessons or how to whitewash the ceiling with your own hands:

Tree processing

Whitewashing tree trunks with lime solves several problems at once and is carried out in spring and autumn. Processing trees in the spring protects the wood from pests, prevents the sun's rays from burning the bark. In autumn, lime is used to lessen the influence of temperature changes in winter.

Old trees are whitewashed, young plants are not processed, as lime clogs the pores of the bark and thereby disrupts growth processes. Before processing, you need to remove all dried parts, clean places with rotting bark.

For whitewashing, lime is used in combination with copper sulphate. Two kilograms of lime are diluted with 10 liters of water, after preparation, 400 grams of vitriol are added to the solution.

Chicken coop processing

Whitewashing the chicken coop allows you to disinfect the room. It is even better if lime slaking is carried out in the chicken coop itself, naturally without its inhabitants. The vapors released during the dissolution of lumps of lime penetrate well into all cracks and destroy bedbugs, ants and other small insects.

In summer, it is advisable to whitewash the walls in the chicken coop at least twice, this will interrupt the breeding chain of many insects. Additionally, walls before whitewashing can be treated with a weak solution of bleach. The practicality of using lime for treating animal rooms is rated at 5 points, it is an inexpensive material and environmentally friendly and has the most optimal disinfection properties.

Consumption for whitewashing

For whitewashing walls and ceilings in the house, lime milk is usually used. Lime consumption for every 2.5 square meters is approximately 0.5 kg of lime lumps, diluted in the appropriate proportion with water.

Features of painting and puttying on lime

If you apply lime milk directly to a layer of water-based paint, then it may happen that the quality of the repair will not satisfy you.

Lime adheres to the paint and rolls with it, and after drying, swollen bubbles are likely to appear.

To prevent this, you must first wash the surfaces with paint with soap and water and a brush and then treat with a stiff brush for better adhesion of the compositions.

Putty is used during the repair for a good leveling of the surface. If puttying is planned on lime-covered walls, then the old layer must first be removed. Alternatively, you can remove all swollen places with a scraper and apply a primer, after which the lime is easily removed.

How to wash lime from the floor, from the walls

In the process of whitewashing surfaces with lime, stains inevitably remain on all surfaces. The easiest way to remove them is still fresh, this will require water and a sponge, water treatment is carried out several times, this allows you to remove all white stains.

If a layer of old lime must be removed to apply other materials during the repair, then the following points must be observed:

• Wet all desired surfaces with water using a brush or spray gun.
• Wait for a good wetting, then remove the lime with a hard, metal sponge or scraper. If there are several layers of lime, then you will have to moisten several times and also repeatedly use paper clips.
• If you are not afraid of dust in the room, then the process can be accelerated by using a grinder with a special nozzle.
• Be sure to use goggles and a respirator, as dust during work can adversely affect the eyes and respiratory tract.

The use of special liquid products can facilitate the removal of old lime, under the influence of which the layer of whitewash dissolves and easily comes off the surfaces.

These include:

1. Means Guard Industry
2. Decap' Sols Plus Guard.
3. Space tool.

All products contain acid, so you need to protect your hands and eyes. Some also use diluted hydrochloric acid, but since it is dangerous to health, it is not recommended for use.

Whitewash prices

Using whitewash is considered the most inexpensive repair option. Construction crews also charge minimal amounts for whitewashing. Usually, whitewashing walls with an area of ​​\u200b\u200bone square meter and using one layer starts from 50 rubles.

Naturally, the cost varies greatly and depends on many factors - the contamination of the surfaces, the use of cleaning, the application of lime in several layers. If you know your quadrature, then it will not be difficult for you to calculate the approximate cost of all the work.

In conclusion, we suggest watching a video - useful tips from Professor Chainikov when whitewashing:

Of all the existing options for finishing the ceiling surface, whitewashing is the most popular. Its widespread use is explained by the affordable cost of the work and obtaining a good result.

Usually, a new whitewash for walls and ceilings is applied after the surface is thoroughly cleaned of the old lime and chalk. A new layer of coloring composition can be placed directly on top of the old one. But you need to know how to do it right, so that in the end it turns out beautifully. It will not take much time to bring the ceiling in order, and such work can be done with your own hands.

Materials for whitewashing the ceiling surface

First of all, you need to decide how to whitewash the ceiling in the apartment by choosing one of the options. Each of them has advantages and disadvantages.

It could be:

• lime;
• water-based paint.

As for such material for whitewashing the ceiling as chalk, it will give the repaired surface a radiant whiteness. Despite the fact that the room will have a good view, additional dust will appear in it. This is explained by the fact that the chalk will gradually begin to crumble. Also, this material is not waterproof, so it is not suitable for repairing the ceiling in the bathroom.

Whitewashing with lime is an excellent way to fight fungus. In the rooms where he appeared, it should be used. In addition, lime on the ceiling is resistant to high humidity. It can be used to paint the ceiling surface in any room, including the bathroom. Lime whitewash successfully hides minor defects, such as cracks and cracks.

Before you whitewash the ceiling with lime, you should take into account the fact that this material can cause an allergic reaction. Also, the surface is not perfectly snow-white, in contrast to the composition based on chalk.

The ceiling after applying water-based paint has an excellent appearance, it keeps well on the previous coating. The composition sticks to the old whitewash and does not begin to peel off over time. This paint has the only drawback - it is possible to carry out repairs when using it at a temperature of + 5 ° C. But, when the ceiling is painted indoors, this circumstance does not matter.

If there is no desire to wash off the previous layer from the surface, then you should know that whitewashing the ceiling using old whitewash has a number of nuances. The fact is that chalk cannot be applied to lime, and vice versa, otherwise the new layer of finish will not fit well, as a result of which dirty stains will appear on the ceiling surface.

On top of the chalk solution, it is permissible to apply the same layer or water-based paint. If the old whitewash on the ceiling was based on lime, it can only be covered with the same material or emulsion coloring composition. In addition, it must be borne in mind that enamels or oil paints are not applied to the old chalk or lime layer.

Tools for whitewashing

Before you whitewash the ceilings yourself, prepare the necessary tools - this work is done in one of three ways for which they are used:

• roller;
• atomizer, it is also an airbrush;
• brush.

If the painting is carried out with a roller, then the coloring composition will lie in an even layer, without forming spots and streaks. To get a good result, whitewashing is applied in two layers. You will need to have not only a roller, but also a container for mortar, an object for mixing, a paint tray and a small brush for applying paint at the junction of the ceiling to the wall.

A whitewash brush can be purchased at any building materials store at an affordable price. When using it, the composition is sprayed, so you should protect the furnishings in the room from it and use special eye glasses.

The use of a sprayer allows you to lay the whitewash in an even, neat layer. Using a spray gun for whitewashing the ceiling, you will reduce the time to complete the work. When using paint, make sure it is free of lumps. Its consistency should be more liquid than whitewash, which is applied with a roller or brush.

The choice of water-based paint

If, deciding on the option, the better to whitewash the ceiling, it is decided to use this type of paint, then you need to consider that there are many varieties of them, they differ in composition and properties:

1. Polyvinyl acetate paints. They are the most affordable.
2. Water emulsion with acrylic additives. They are the most popular. They are used for different surfaces, they are resistant to abrasion, but this does not matter for ceilings.
3. Silicone paints. If the whitewashing of the ceiling is being repaired, then it can be done without the use of a primer. This coloring composition is distinguished by a high degree of vapor permeability, it is suitable for painting the ceiling surface in the kitchen or bathroom. Such paint can reliably protect the ceiling from fungus.
4. Water emulsions with latex. They have excellent water resistance, the surfaces painted with them can be washed with detergents. Such compositions are the most expensive among similar products.

To decide which whitewash is best for the ceiling, you need to carefully read the label before buying water-based paint, which indicates the purpose of the composition, the consumption per "square" area and other important information.

Properly selected composition allows you to create a durable snow-white ceiling coating - it will not turn yellow over time and will be reliably protected from the appearance of fungus.

Whitewashing with water-based paint

Before whitewashing the ceilings, applying a water-based emulsion over lime, the previous layer should be pre-coated with an acrylic primer. Then it does not hurt to make sure that the surface is strong, for this you can try to scratch it.

Paint is applied only when the ceiling does not crumble. When painting over chalk, no preparation is necessary. The water-based composition will be held on the ceiling without the use of a primer.

Before starting repairs, you should prepare the room. Items in it are carefully covered with a film or taken out of the room to protect them from paint.

A more convenient and simple painting process is to use a roller, for which proceed as follows:

1. Paint is poured into the paint tray.
2. The roller is dipped into a container and rolled along the inclined side of the bath so that the paint is evenly distributed over the surface, and its excess is drained.
3. The first layer is laid perpendicular to the window openings.
4. Wait for the paint to dry completely.
5. After that, the next layer is applied, placing it parallel to the windows.
6. Using a brush, paint over sections of the ceiling at the junction of the ceiling with the walls.

Spray paint is much easier to apply. It is necessary to lay three layers, and it is not necessary to follow the direction of the painting. The main thing is not to miss a single centimeter of the ceiling surface.

Chalk repair

Before you make a ceiling with whitewash, you should prepare a chalk solution, for which 10 liters will require 50 grams of wood glue and 5 kilograms of chalk. Its consistency should be such that the composition does not drain from the knife. If not, add chalk. Blue can be added to the mixture to make the surface snow-white, without yellowness.

The technology for repairing a ceiling with chalk does not differ from the process of applying water-based paint. First, choose a tool for repair - a brush, roller or spray. The composition should lie down in an even layer.

Adhesive whitewashing of the ceiling, which is quite popular today, has glue in its composition, it is much easier to apply and holds more firmly. If a surface covered with simple chalk can stain your hands when it comes into contact, then glue painting has no such drawbacks. In addition, such whitewashing can be given any color shade.

Whitewashing with lime

To prepare a lime mortar for painting the ceiling surface, take 2.5 kilograms of lime, add 100 grams of salt pre-soaked in water, as well as a little blue. All components are mixed, and water is poured in such a way that as a result the volume of the mixture is approximately 10 liters.

The rules for whitewashing a ceiling with lime are similar to the recommendations for how to apply water-based paint and chalk mortar.

Important nuances

When repairing the ceiling surface, the purpose of the room should be taken into account. For example, if it is a bathroom, the use of a special compound that is resistant to high humidity and able to protect the ceiling from fungus is required. Otherwise, the paint will lose its attractive appearance in a short time and, most likely, will begin to crumble.

When performing painting work, safety must be remembered, since whitewash should not be allowed to enter the respiratory system, eyes or skin. To do this, use a respirator, rubber gloves and special glasses. The fact is that the coloring composition can cause serious allergic reactions, and sometimes chemical burns.

Removing old whitewash from the ceiling

Despite the fact that there is a technology for how to whitewash the ceiling with your own hands without washing off the previous layer, in order to obtain a high-quality result, you need to clean the surface and be sure to level it.

You should definitely wash off the previously applied whitewash, which does not adhere well to the ceiling. If it is not removed, a decent result cannot be expected. When the chalk or lime layer is even, thin and strong, painting can be done over it.

If you still need to prepare the ceiling for whitewashing, in order to remove the chalk, proceed as follows:

1. The foam sponge is moistened in water so that it becomes wet and no drops drip from it.
2. Time after time, it is carried over the surface, thereby washing off layer by layer, wetting it as often as possible.
3. Finally, wipe the ceiling with a wet cloth, often dipping it in water.

As for the lime layer, it is much more difficult to remove it:

1. First of all, they moisten the entire ceiling surface, for which you can use a spray gun.
2. Soaked material is removed with a scraper or spatula.
3. Then the ceiling is thoroughly washed with a sponge or rag to eliminate the remnants of dust and lime.

It is better to work in sections: while soaked lime is removed from one of them, the surface of the other absorbs moisture. As a result, you can quickly prepare the ceiling. Also, to wash off the old whitewash, they use special tools.

In building materials stores, a wash is sold, which is applied with a sprayer. After it dries, a crust forms on the ceiling, it must be removed with a scraper. Finally, the surface is washed with a cloth.

There is another option to remove the old layer. Vinegar is added to the water in the amount of one tablespoon per 5 liters and 50 milliliters of bath foam. The components are thoroughly mixed and applied to the ceiling. After 20 minutes, it is cleaned with a scraper and wiped with a wet cloth.

There is another way to clean old whitewash. You need to mix water and flour. The resulting paste is applied to the surface and allowed to dry, after which it is not difficult to remove the old layer.

professional ceiling painting

If you do not have enough skills and knowledge on how to properly whitewash ceilings, you can use the services of professionals. This solution has many advantages. It allows not only to save time, but also to get an excellent result. A professional whitewashing the ceiling will spend a minimum of coloring composition, so that repairs will not cost much more than self-painting. The main thing to pay attention to is the skill of those who are to be hired.

It must be remembered that whitewashing old paint is an inexpensive and easy way to transform the interior of a room for the better. It should not always be applied and only when the previous layer is even and excellently held. In this case, both water-based paint, and lime, and chalk, applied directly to the old base, will hold securely.

Making whitewash is easy. It is necessary to seek help from the masters and hire professionals in order to save time if the owner of the premises is a busy person and does not have the opportunity to do repairs.

We all know these old houses with our grandmother in the village, where the ceilings and walls are not covered with wallpaper, but whitewashed with lime. This method is not only a cosmetic repair option with the most minimal cost, but also an excellent antiseptic option for surface finishing. Of course, you can use more modern materials, but for use in a country house, the composition of lime is very popular to this day. Today I want to tell you how to dilute lime for whitewashing surfaces inside the house and do all the whitewashing with your own hands.

Getting to know the material

We knead the lime

Lime refers to the totality of firing materials, together with the further processing of chalk and limestone. Ever since my school days, I knew that lime can be soda, slaked and quicklime. With its disinfecting properties, whitewash is popular for treatment in public places, as they are often repaired once and for a long time. Antiseptic properties do not allow fungus and mold to appear on walls treated with this composition.

Important! At the entrances, the walls are still being processed with the help of whitewashing and thanks to this they remain dry, moisture resistant and strong enough.

For clarity, I have compiled a small list of places where you can use lime whitewash:

1. shower rooms
2. Pools
3. entrances
4. Walls and ceilings in residential and non-residential rooms
5. Cellars, Garages
6. Closets

This is not the whole list of places where lime can be used. The main criterion due to which the solution becomes popular is low cost and environmental friendliness. However, lime mortar has some disadvantages that can be eliminated correctly by diluting the mixture:

• If the lime for whitewashing is too liquid, then the color after application will not be saturated enough
• Oversaturation of the composition, on the contrary, threatens that after drying, the coating will begin to bubble and fall off
• The causticity of the solution indicates the need to protect skin and clothing during dilution and lime application.

Dilution proportions and consumption

Whitewashing with lime

For those who like to do all the repair work with their own hands, I decided to write not only about self-preparation of surfaces, but also about proportions. It is necessary to dilute the slaked mixture using proportions of 1: 3 - where 3 is the number of liters of water, and 1 is the weight of the powder used.

The composition diluted in this way gives us about eight kilograms of a mixture ready for use. This is quite enough for use in a room where the area of ​​​​all finished surfaces is 12 square meters. m. By the way, from a familiar master, I learned another way to calculate the required amount of material:

1. To do this, you need to measure the surface to be trimmed, and then divide it into sections of 2.5 m in size.
2. Why 750 ml of water and 500 grams of lime should be used for each site

However, lime consumption may vary depending on the properties of the base. For example, to process a brick wall, you will need more material. Also important is the preparation of the walls, as well as the tools with which lime is applied.

Important! Do not use a roller to whitewash walls or ceilings. A special brush is suitable for such a process, but the use of an airbrush will significantly save the solution.

Proper dilution plays a significant role in the further processing and service life of the finished coating. Therefore, always mix the material in small portions and use only cold water. It is allowed to whitewash the walls and ceiling only a day after the lime is diluted.

We prepare the walls ourselves

Finishing the ceiling in the apartment with lime

As with any job, whitewashing requires some preparation. Of course, the use of putty to level the bases is the best option, but it is used very rarely. This is due to the fact that whitewashing is the cheapest option for cosmetic repairs. The most important thing in the preparation process is to clean the walls and ceiling from dirt and grease stains, because they affect the duration of the finish.

If there are yellow stains on the ceiling - most often they remain after being flooded by neighbors from above, then it is worth using whiteness. With its help, all places prone to yellow spots are washed. By the way, using this option, you should be aware that during the next repair, if water-based paint is used, then new manifestations of stains are possible. However, now they will be green. Lime when whitewashing the bases must be absorbed and therefore cannot be whitewashed over oil paint.

Important! In no case can not be primed surfaces for whitewashing. The primer, forming a strong film on the walls and ceiling, prevents the lime mortar from being absorbed, after which it rolls off.

The principle of working at home

Interior finishing and lime

I whitewashed the walls in my country house myself and therefore decided to describe the whole process in detail. Only by following all the tips and requirements, you can get a high-quality surface, and therefore:

• First you need to prepare the room - for this, all windows, furniture and interior are closed with a film
• Next, the preparation of the walls or ceiling is carried out - the chalky whitewash is removed, as well as all stains of dirt or grease
• Since the lime solution that is used for whitewashing must be infused for some time, it is better to dilute it a day before the work. However, not everyone adheres to this rule and kneading before the work itself.
• When using a spray gun, strain the mixture before applying it, and thoroughly mix the lime solution before directly immersing in the spray container.
• With such seemingly simple work, care should be taken to protect the face, hands and respiratory organs. Use a respirator, goggles or mask, as well as old clothes and rubber gloves
• Before whitewashing the walls, they must be moistened with a spray gun. The spray gun during do-it-yourself work should be kept at a distance of about 20 cm from the surface to be treated
• For a two-layer application, it is required to withstand some time between the application of the first and second layers. You should wait about a couple of hours and then apply the next layer on the completely wet previous one.

The process itself is not particularly difficult, but in some cases, serious preparation of processing sites is needed. In cases where cracks appear in places where whitening will be carried out, it is necessary to use putty for sealing. To do this, you need to make the crack a little larger, then prime it and lay it with a putty mixture. After drying, the surface is rubbed.

Important! If whitewashing will occur with a brush, then it should be pre-soaked in water. This will prevent the appearance of hairs on surfaces that are treated with lime.

The use of adhesive whitewash

Ceiling whitewash

The advantage of glue whitewash over the usual one is very significant. The fact is that adhesive whitewashing has two parameters, which are the advantage of the material. The first is that it adheres much better to the base and does not smear like regular chalk. And the second is that it can be given any shade. Since there is glue in the composition of the adhesive primer, surface preparation is slightly different from whitewashing with lime. If there are puttied places, then the base must be primed. The application of the solution to the walls and ceiling occurs in the same way as for a conventional mixture.

Today, the shelves of hardware stores are bursting with a variety of finishing materials. Wallpaper of different types, decorative plaster, stone, tiles - choose what you want, but at the same time good old whitewashing does not lose popularity. Among the main reasons are low cost, ease of application and environmental friendliness. These qualities are sometimes enough to turn a blind eye to the low durability of the coating. Let's figure out how to whitewash the ceiling and walls with lime and chalk, decide whether water-based paint belongs to whitewash, and which material shows itself better.

No. 1. The benefits of whitewashing

Whitewashing ceilings and walls is not the most modern way of finishing, and far from being the most fashionable. What makes thousands and tens of thousands of people across the country still whitewash the old fashioned way? Whitewashing has enough advantages:

• low price- this is the main argument in favor of this type of finish. When the budget is limited, and it is necessary to put the room in order, the choice falls on whitewashing. For this reason, gypsum and chalk are still actively used in hospitals, schools and other public institutions for finishing ceilings and walls;
• ease of application. A person without special training will cope with whitewashing - no special skills, abilities and tools will be needed;
• neat appearance. Of course, in terms of intricacy and decorativeness, the whitewashed ceiling is inferior to the tension system, and the whitewashed walls are finished with Venetian plaster, but if you apply the whitewash correctly, you can end up with a fresh white surface with an even matte color. If desired, a dye can be added to the solution with whitewash;
• harmlessness, environmental friendliness ability to pass moisture and air. Ordinary whitewashing in this regard is far ahead of vinyl wallpaper and polystyrene foam ceiling tiles, so in some cases it will be even more preferable;
• lime whitening has bactericidal properties, so it will become an additional protection against mold and fungus.

Among cons low durability (1-3 years), uncomplicated appearance and dirt during application.

No. 2. How to whitewash: lime, chalk or water-based paint?

When they talk about whitewashing, they most often mean exactly lime whitewash. Lime (this is calcium oxide) is quenched with water to produce a material that is used in finishing.

The main advantages of lime whitewash:

• bactericidal properties of the material, so this finish is used in kindergartens, schools, medical institutions, even in wet rooms. The antiseptic qualities of lime also make it possible to actively use it in the arrangement of cellars and chicken coops. For the same reason, the bark of trees is treated with lime whitewash;
• if the lime mortar was prepared and applied correctly, then the coating will last about 3 years and even more;
• resistance to temperature extremes and high humidity. That is why lime can be used to decorate bathrooms if other materials are not affordable;
• excellent adhesion to almost all materials, including brick, wood, plaster and concrete;
• ability to fill small cracks;
• low price, which is typical for any whitewash.

With all the advantages, lime is different and shortcomings. The main one is the possibility of getting burned, so all work must be carried out with gloves. Chalk is much safer in this respect. In addition, there is a chance of leaving stains and streaks. Allergy sufferers are not recommended to use this finish.

Chalk just like lime, it is inexpensive and environmentally friendly, and among its additional benefits:

• safety at work;
• a deeper white color that many like more than the color obtained with lime whitewash;
• the ability to use in rooms where allergy sufferers live.

Chalk, when interacting with water, is able to accumulate it, which leads to the appearance of cracks on the surface and the rapid exfoliation of the whitewash layer, therefore, chalk whitewashing is taboo in bathrooms, kitchens and other wet areas. If the application technology is violated, you can get not only spots and stains, but also bubbles. In addition, chalk whitewash stains.

There is such a concept among the people as whitewashing with water-based paint. This finish has nothing to do with whitewashing and refers to painting. It began to be attributed to whitewashing, apparently due to the composition of the materials used - this cement and lime based paints. Today, painting with mineral water-based paints can be considered the best alternative to whitewashing. Among the main advantages of this option:

• resistance to abrasion, temperature extremes;
• bactericidal properties;
• the ability to breathe;
• human safety;
• ease of use, high drying speed.

However, the durability of such a coating is also not up to par, but the price is much higher than that of ordinary whitewash.

Number 3. How to determine what was whitewashed?

Probably, at least once in a lifetime, everyone has heard that different whitewashes cannot be mixed. If lime whitewash was applied to the ceiling or wall, then when mounting on top of the chalky one, ugly spots will soon be observed. When preparing a room for finishing and evaluating the condition of the surfaces, it is very important to determine what whitewashing was done before.

It is very easy to check. It is enough to wet a small fragment of the finish with water, and observe the reaction. Wet lime will darken a little, and if you rub the surface with your finger, there will be no white marks on your hands.

No. 4. How to wash off whitewash and prepare the surface?

Before whitewashing a ceiling or wall, it is necessary to prepare the room and surface for future work. The sequence of actions is as follows:

If your task is only resurface a whitewashed surface, then if there are small defects, they can be repaired with cement-based putty, and then proceed to apply a new layer of whitewash.

No. 5. Preparing a whitewash solution

Since lime is used more often, we will start with it. The process of preparing the material is simple, but still requires care. So, how to dilute lime for whitewashing?

Now consider how dilute whitewash based on chalk:

Note that ready-made dry mixes are also on sale, where lime or chalk has already been mixed in the required proportions with other components - you just have to fill in the required amount of water. Such mixtures are more expensive if you take all the ingredients separately, but the difference is small.

No. 6. How to whitewash the ceiling and walls: brush, roller or spray?

Theoretically, whitewashing can be applied with the following tools:

• brush;
• roller;
• spray gun;
• vacuum cleaner with air blowing function.

We note right away that the first two options are more applicable - it makes sense to use a vacuum cleaner and an airbrush with a large surface area to be whitewashed.

Whitewash brush they take a special one, made of natural bristles 15-20 cm wide. After work, the brush can be washed and reused later. To whitewash a brick wall, you can use a brush with natural bristles. It is advisable to soak it in water a few hours before use. In this case, the wooden handle swells a little and holds the bristles well, which will not fall out during the whitewashing process.

Before applying the mixture, it is important to mix well again so that the shade is uniform. The first layer is applied perpendicular to the window, the second - parallel to the frames. In this case, the stripes from the brush will be minimally noticeable. Experts recommend slightly moistening the surface of the ceiling and walls before applying the mixture.

It is better not to use a whitewash roller. When there is only one layer, this tool will still fit, but when applying the second layer, the dried first one may fall off. If you act carefully, you can get a beautiful matte surface.

Sprayer and vacuum cleaner take only when you have to finish a large surface. The consumption of the solution increases, it is applied in a thicker layer, but it will be possible to mask small defects. If you have a sprayer at your disposal, then there are no questions.

You can also apply whitewash with a vacuum cleaner if it has an air blowing function. Among the numerous nozzles in such models there should be a polyethylene cover with tubes. This cap is the atomizer. It must be put on a jar and connected with a hose to the outlet in the vacuum cleaner. It turns out that when air is blown out with a vacuum cleaner, air enters the atomizer, draws the solution from the can and sprays it through the nozzle. As a rule, there is a special hole on the sprayer, covering which you can get the required solution supply pressure. It is better to apply the solution in a circular motion, spraying at a distance of 70-100 cm.

No. 7. In conclusion about safety

So that after whitewashing you do not have to be treated, it is better to take care of safety precautions in advance. The respiratory tract is protected with a respirator, a wet bandage or a protective mask. Hands must be protected with rubber gloves, and eyes with goggles.

Having started the repair, sooner or later you will face the question of how to whitewash the walls. Our article will give a detailed answer to this question. Before whitewashing, the walls must be cleaned of various stains, as well as of old whitewash, all cracks and irregularities are repaired, after which the surface is primed. Rusty spots and streaks are washed with water before whitewashing, and then these places are treated with a solution of copper sulfate (50-100 g of vitriol per 1 liter of boiling water).

Having started the repair, sooner or later you will face the question, how. Our article will give a detailed answer to this question.
Before whitewashing, the walls must be cleaned of various stains, as well as of old whitewash, all cracks and irregularities are repaired, after which the surface is primed.

Rusty spots and streaks are washed with water before whitewashing, and then these places are treated with a solution of copper sulfate (50-100 g of vitriol per 1 liter of boiling water).

Grease stains are removed with a hot 2% solution of soda ash (a clean white rag is moistened with a solution and applied to the stain until it disappears completely). Then the treated surface is thoroughly washed with water.

Smoked walls are wiped with a 2-3% hydrochloric acid solution.

To seal cracks and other similar defects on and walls, putty will be required.

To obtain a simple and reliable putty, gypsum, chalk and diluted wood glue are mixed in a ratio of 1:2:2 (by weight). Recall that for the preparation of the liquid component of the putty, 30-50 g of glue is dissolved in 1 liter of water. Sufficiently high-quality putty can be made according to another recipe. It is necessary to dilute 2.5 kg of lime dough (slaked lime of a thick consistency) in 5 liters of water, then add 50-100 g of ordinary table salt dissolved in hot water to the lime, after which the amount of water in the mixture should be brought to 10 liters, not forgetting to mix it thoroughly. After that, it is necessary to strain the future putty through a fine sieve and add to it 1.5 liters of 10% wood glue with chalk powder mixed in it (150-200 g). Putty of this composition is also successfully used for priming surfaces.

Putty is applied to the surface, usually manually using.

The cleaned and puttied surfaces of the ceiling and walls are covered with a primer prepared either according to the recipe for the above putty, or according to another recipe based on slaked lime. In the latter case, take 3 kg of slaked lime with a pasty consistency, 200 g of laundry soap and 50-100 g of drying oil. Soap is cut into thin shavings, dissolved in 3 liters of hot water, drying oil is added. Separately, lime is diluted in 4 liters of water. Mix both solutions - and the primer is ready. Just do not forget to dilute it with water before use to a total volume of 10-11 liters.

As you know, the purpose of applying a primer to a surface is to create an even, thin, smooth film on this surface, through which the paint would not penetrate, which will allow the latter to lie on the surface in an even layer and dry evenly. So, the primer is carefully applied to the treated surfaces with a brush, or with a paint sprayer. And when it dries, you can proceed to the actual whitewashing.

Usually, chalk whitewash for walls is prepared as follows: 30 g of wood glue and 3 kg of sifted chalk are dissolved in 5 liters of water heated to 40-50 0C.

A good quality chalk whitewash will provide a composition that includes 2.3 kg of chalk, 90 g of wood glue, 17 g of blue (ultramarine), 60 g of laundry soap and 3-4 liters of water (this amount of whitewash is enough to paint 10 m2 surface). Remember that if the ceiling or walls have been whitewashed with lime, chalk whitewash should not be used, as dirty stains and stains will appear on the ceiling.

Here is a recipe for a lime whitewash composition: 2-3 kg of slaked lime is diluted in a small amount of water, 400-500 g of dyes pre-soaked in water are added, as well as 50-100 g of table salt or 150-200 g of potassium alum. All components are thoroughly mixed and, gradually adding water, bring the volume of whitewash to 10 liters. It is better to slightly blue the resulting composition with ultramarine or blue.

You should not force the drying of whitewash, so as not to spoil the work. Avoid drafts, and if direct sunlight penetrates a freshly whitewashed room, darken the windows.

Whitewashing the walls with lime

The simplest and cheapest material for whitewashing is lime. Lime whitewash is more resistant to temperature changes and water. Whitewashing walls with lime requires careful surface preparation.

1. Rinse the whitewashed surface with water. If there are gaps, cracks and potholes on it, you need to apply a lime-sand mortar.

2. If you chose lime for whitewashing, then you need to purchase slaked lime in the hardware store. In order to get a whitewash of a snow-white color, you need to add 1/2 cup of table salt to a bucket with a solution.

3. The walls will need to be whitewashed 2 times. First, you use a slurry to prime the walls, and then the second layer will be done with a thicker mortar. If you add a little blue to the second solution, then you get a whitewash with a bluish tint.

4. The main rule that must be followed when whitewashing surfaces is the movement of the brush. It is better to start whitewashing from the window, the stripes during whitewashing should be parallel to the light.

5. It is best to use pure white whitewashing in rooms with windows facing north. In a room with south-facing windows, you can whitewash the walls with pale green or pale blue whitewash.

6. If you need to whitewash the ceiling and walls, always start at the ceiling before moving on to the walls. The result will please you if you do the work in the correct sequence.

IS IT POSSIBLE TO GLUE WALLPAPER ON WHITEPAPER?

When renovating old apartments, builders often come across whitewashed walls. Previously, this was a fairly popular method of surface treatment - simple and fairly cheap. Modern materials make it easy to replace whitewash, providing a much greater variety of colors and textures for the same money. Naturally, the question immediately arises, is it possible to glue wallpaper on whitewash?
You will find the answer to it in our article.

Everyone knows that when wallpapering, you should clean the wall of the old finish. Often, when you have to deal with whitewash, a complete cleaning of the wall is the only method of preparation.
However, sometimes the layer of lime is so strong that it does not crumble and does not fall off in pieces even under physical influences. Such a surface can serve as a reliable basis for wallpaper materials.

Renewal of the whitewash layer

Even if the whitewash is strong enough, the likelihood that it will not withstand pasting, especially with heavy wallpaper, is high. Under the influence of wallpaper paste, the layer of lime can get wet and begin to fall off.
Naturally, stains, swellings and irregularities will appear on the surface of the wallpaper, moreover, freshly glued sheets may fall off the wall, ruining a brand new repair.
And how to stick wallpaper on whitewash in this case? Just check the quality of the existing layer by making a test pasting.
Note!
For insurance against failed repairs and saving materials, try sticking one sheet of wallpaper on the whitewash and wait until the glue dries.
If the result meets your expectations, you can proceed with the repair.

Preparing lime for gluing

If you have already decided to save your own time and glue wallpaper on whitewash, proceed to the preparatory work.
The first thing to do is to cover the old lime with a quality acrylic primer.
It will securely bind the whitewash layer and improve its adhesion to the wall so that the wallpaper adheres securely to the surface. After the first layer has dried, apply a second one - this will further strengthen the base.
It is best to choose the primer that has water-repellent properties: lime is afraid of water and it is better to protect it from exposure to high humidity.
Generally, all primers protect the surface from mold and mildew. It is better to fix the result with a weak glue solution.
Dilute the wallpaper paste heavily with water and cover the entire wall with it. The adhesive composition will harden in the irregularities of the finish and will serve as a good basis with which you can glue the wallpaper on the whitewash.
The wallpaper adhesive itself is selected based on the specific type of material. All glue is now developed on the basis of modified starch, with various additives that determine its properties.
There are additives that reduce the drying time of the glue, preventing the formation of mold and fungus. Primers are usually designed for a certain type of material - iron or metal surface, wood or drywall.

We wash off the old whitewash

If a layer of old whitewash has turned yellow and does not adhere well to the surface of the wall, it's time to remove it.
In this case, the answer to the question of how to stick wallpaper on whitewash will be concise - nothing if you do not clean the wall completely.
First of all, lay old newspapers or oilcloth on the floor near the walls - the old whitewash is simply washed off the wall and, naturally, ends up on the floor. Removal of the lime layer is carried out using a spray bottle with warm water.
Wet small areas and gradually remove whitewash with a spatula. A particularly thin layer is removed with a sponge or rags. After removing the lining, the surface should be primed, otherwise it will not work well to glue the wallpaper.
Now you know how to glue wallpaper on whitewash, and you are ready for practical tests. Good luck with your future renovations!

Cosmetic repairs of an apartment or house should begin with whitewashing or, in other words, with finishing the ceiling. A home master, especially a beginner, immediately asks the question: what do you need to know in order, for example, to whitewash a kitchen with a total volume of 7 m3? To do this, you need to know how much chalk, slaked lime or water-based paint is needed (depending on which method of finishing the ceiling you have chosen), what and how to whitewash.

To finish the ceiling, you can use a brush, roller, sprayer (or spray gun) and even a regular vacuum cleaner. The choice will depend on the area of ​​​​the working surface, its condition and your capabilities and desires.
Applying whitewash with a brush is the easiest way. Usually it is used when the working area is small. The quality of whitewashing largely depends on the condition of the brushes. New brushes must be soaked in water for several hours before use, so that the handle swells and firmly fixes the hairs, otherwise they will remain on the ceiling, and this will affect the quality of the whitewash and accelerate the wear of the brush. After use, the brush must be thoroughly rinsed with running water.

If desired, a whitewash brush can be prepared by yourself. Brushes made of bast fibers are best suited for whitewashing: they do not leave hair on the ceiling. To make such a brush, you will need a strong and smooth wooden handle, bast fibers and strong rope.
Bend the fibers of the washcloth in half and insert a wooden handle into them. Then tightly tie the ends of the fibers and the handle embedded in them with a rope. Now it remains only to chop off the ends of the fibers with a sharply honed ax, and the brush is ready.

However, even a good whitewash brush may not be the most effective tool. If the area requiring whitewashing is large enough, it is better to use a sprayer. In this case, the sprayer (or spray gun) is kept at a distance of 20-50 cm from the working surface, depending on the compressed air pressure, jet power and whitewash density. The sprayer must be moved at the same speed, the jet must be directed strictly at right angles to the ceiling surface. The sprayer must be turned on and off at a distance of at least 1 m from the working surface.

As a sprayer, you can use a regular vacuum cleaner, attaching the necessary components to it, often included in the purchase kit. These include a sprinkler, fixing devices, etc.
To do this, pour the whitewash into a jar (the size of the jar can be from 0.5 to 2 liters) and put on top the sprayer included in the vacuum cleaner kit. Then one end of the vacuum cleaner hose must be connected to the sprayer, and the other to the outlet of the vacuum cleaner, from which air comes out.
The atomizer will work when the vacuum cleaner is on and the hole in the atomizer cap is tightly closed. The composition is sprayed from a distance of at least 1 m (in order for the whitewash to lie flat on the surface).

Before whitewashing, it is necessary to carefully ensure that central heating radiators, baseboards, platbands, lamps and wooden floors are securely covered. Switches and sockets should be protected from whitewashing with adhesive tape or adhesive tape.

CHALK WHITE
If you decide to finish the ceiling with chalk whitewash, you first need to know if it was previously whitewashed with lime. In general, it is very easy to determine the basis for finishing the ceiling. It is enough to wet the surface with water. Lime immediately darkens, and if the place moistened with water is rubbed with a finger, it does not stain. Adhesive compositions soak and are easily erased. And water-based paint does not change color.

If you have determined that your ceiling was previously whitewashed with lime, you cannot immediately apply chalk: dirty spots will appear. You must first wash off the old whitewash with water, carefully making sure that there are no gaps. Then, using a scraper, carefully scrape off the old layer of whitewash. If this is not done, the old whitewash can crumble very soon along with the new layer.
Heavily polluted places can be washed with a solution of copper sulphate. To do this, vitriol is dissolved in boiling water. If the whitewash still does not peel off well, moisten it with a 3% solution of hydrochloric or acetic acid. After that, the ceiling, well washed from whitewash, should dry for 24 hours. You can remove the old whitewash with a scraper without soaking the ceiling. However, in this case, it must then be washed with a solution of copper sulfate.

If the layer of the old whitewash is in good condition and for some reason you do not want to remove it, you can apply a new layer directly on the old one, after fixing it with soapy water. This contributes to better fixing and a new layer of whitewash.
If you are doing a major overhaul, after washing off the old whitewash, you should smooth the plaster, clean all the cracks to the full depth with a knife or spatula, and prepare a grease to seal them. In the absence of ready-made putty, you can prepare it yourself: for one part of chalk, two parts of wood glue are taken (30-50 g of glue per 1 liter of water). Then the composition is mixed until a doughy mass is obtained. Further, taking the grease with the end of the spatula, smoothly drawing it first across the crack, and then along, it is necessary to fill the crack with putty flush with the plane of the ceiling.

Whitewashing with chalk is best done in 2-3 doses. Usually, 4-5 kg ​​of ground chalk is taken per 10 liters of water, and a little blue is also added to give the whitewash a light bluish tint, which helps to maintain the purity and freshness of the color. The strokes of the first layer (if you are whitewashing with a brush) are superimposed transversely to the rays of light falling from the window. Then, strokes of the second are superimposed on the dried first layer - already in the opposite direction, parallel to the flow of incident light.

In the same way, whitewash is applied to the walls. Of course, whitewashing the walls is rarely used now, but if you still decide to whitewash the walls, then it is important to know that the first layer of whitewash on the walls is applied with horizontal strokes, and the second, covering one, with vertical strokes.
It is not advisable to make a single-layer thick coating from chalk whitewash, because it usually cracks when it dries. A single coat will not provide the necessary protection to the substrate. Therefore, it is better to apply whitewash in several layers, each of which performs its function. The first - fastens the entire coating with the base, and the last - protects it from external influences and performs a decorative function.
If after the final whitewashing of the ceiling you still find any defects, apply another layer. But usually, with the correct proportions of the composition, two or three applied layers of whitewash are quite enough.

If desired, the ceiling, bleached with chalk whitewash, can be given a colored tint. To do this, add the necessary pigment to the whitewash. So, to get ivory color, ocher can be added to whitewash. The creamy shade is given by umber or burnt sienna. A light greenish tint can be given to whitewash by adding chrome green or crown to it. Minium gives shades of red, and a gray tone is acquired by whitewashing when bone black paint is introduced into it. But most often, when whitewashing ceilings, ultramarine (blue) is used as a pigment, which gives the ceiling a blue-blue tint, which allows you to maintain a high-quality look longer.

To improve the water resistance of whitewash, it is enough to add a little drying oil to it (about 3 tablespoons per 5 liters of whitewash), and for better bonding, a little glue.
You can offer several recipes for chalk whitewash compositions using glue:
Whitewashing with animal glue (per 10 liters of composition). Whitewash composition: chalk - 6 kg; ultramarine (blue) - 0.02-0.03 kg; animal glue - 0.20-0.25 kg; water - to a working consistency.

Method of preparation: chalk is soaked, ground and filtered. Pigments pre-soaked in water (ultramarine) are introduced into the resulting paste. The desired color of the composition is periodically tested by a dry test. The glue is dissolved in 1.5-2 liters of water and added to the finished composition. If the whitewash composition turned out to be thick, water is added to it and filtered through a sieve or gauze.
Whitewash composition on complex glue (per 10 liters of composition). Whitewash composition: chalk - 6 kg; fat glue - 0.06-0.08 kg; flour or starch - 0.18-0.22 kg; pigments - 0.2-0.3 kg; water - up to working density.
Method of preparation: chalk is soaked in water, ground and filtered. Pre-soaked pigments are introduced into the resulting mass. Glue is diluted in 0.5-0.6 l of water; flour or starch is closed in 0.25 liters of water and rubbed well. The resulting mass is poured into 0.25 liters of boiling water and stirred until a paste is formed. First, a solution of animal glue is introduced into the colored paste, and then a paste. Before use, the composition is filtered.

Chalk composition with glue and latex. Places with defects on the surface are leveled with a polymer-cement composition (prepared from 1 part cement and 2 parts sand with the addition of 8-10% PVAD dispersion). Whitewash composition: SKS-65 GP latex - 20%; CMC glue 10% - percentage - 20%; chalk - 57.5%; tint paint or pigments - 2.5% (until the desired shade is obtained).
This composition, when applied, forms a low-relief monophonic surface, which cannot be subjected to wet cleaning. The composition is prepared by mixing the components in the prescription amount for 40-50 minutes.

Before applying the composition of the surface, it is necessary to clean and treat with a primer "Soap-boiler". Cracks, sinks, junctions are sealed with adhesive putty or Pomelax putty.
However, whitewashing with chalk along with the advantage (the most simple and affordable way to prepare the composition) has a number of disadvantages. Divorces, stripes, spots, bubbles - this is not a complete list of possible defects. It depends both on the quality of the chalk (it is better to use natural chalk GOST 17498-72, lumpy chalk MK1, MK2, MKZ or ground enriched MM0-MMZ), and on the correct proportions you observed. If the prepared composition turned out to be insufficiently saturated (liquid), this will affect the color of the painted surface. If the composition is oversaturated, the whitewash will bubble, and when dried, it will fall off. Thus, the ceilings of your house will look very unattractive.

LIME WHITE
All these shortcomings can be attributed to another method of finishing the ceiling, namely, to whitewashing with slaked lime. However, compared to whitewashing with ground chalk, this method is good in that it guarantees longer durability due to the formation of a protective film that is resistant to water vapor and abrasion. It adheres well to plaster, brick and stone.
Lime whitewashing on surfaces containing rust, efflorescence, grease and bituminous stains is completely unacceptable.
Surfaces before lime finishing must be dedusted, surface cracks should be opened, primed, puttied and smoothed. Solution streaks, delaminations - remove.

The base for the lime finish must be clean, solid, and just before whitewashing, it must be slightly moistened. Old whitewash should be brushed off, fragile places should be scraped off, and cracks and depressions should be puttied. If there is old whitewash on the ceiling, it must be removed.

For whitewashing with lime, 0.4 kg of lime is usually taken (preferably building lime GOST 9179-77) and 0.6 liters of water for every 2.5 m2. Whitewashing will become better if you add 0.3 tbsp. l. drying oil and 5 g of table salt. This will add strength and water resistance to it. The whole mixture is thoroughly mixed, filtered through a sieve, lumps and impurities are removed. It is better to add 20-25 g of ultramarine to the resulting milk of lime to give it a bluish tint.

Whitewash is applied more often in two thin layers. Moreover, the second layer is applied to the still wet previous one - to give the whitewash greater strength. Lime whitewashing will be durable only if the lime has time to carbonize. To do this, it is necessary that for some time the lime whitewash retains the moisture necessary for carbonization. Therefore, before whitewashing with lime compounds, it is better to slightly moisten the work surface.

In addition, it is recommended to add sodium chloride (table salt) and calcium chloride to the composition, because. they are able to accumulate moisture from the air in the lime film and thereby maintain a humid environment necessary for the normal crystallization of lime.

To work with lime, it is better to choose evening time or a cloudy day in order to avoid direct sunlight and dry wind on the work surface. On hot days, working with lime is generally not recommended.
Whitewashing with lime has its advantages. The ceiling finished with lime has small pores that absorb water vapor, which then evaporate freely and exit through these pores. Lime coating has disinfectant properties, making it suitable for a number of specific areas. When the whitewash dries, a strong film is formed on the surface that is resistant to abrasion.

Lime whitewash remains in good condition for at least 3-4 years (subject to the correct preparation of the composition). When added to the composition of some components, an increase in the warranty period may be possible. Thus, the addition of aluminum-potassium alum to lime compositions significantly increases the mechanical strength of the whitewash.

The strength of the lime film also depends on the type of lime used for whitewashing. So, a film on hot freshly slaked lime already after a week gives a good strength result, on slaked lime a slightly lower strength is achieved, and lime whitewashing on fluffy lime forms a film, the strength of which is quite low.

The lime film acquires the greatest strength when whitewashing over a freshly applied layer of plaster. Whitewash is firmly bonded to a fresh layer of plaster.
We present various methods for the preparation of lime whitewash composition. This will make it possible to cook one of them, depending on the availability of materials.
Lime composition: lime dough - 3 kg, table salt - 0.1 kg, water -10 l.

Method of preparation: lime dough is diluted in 4-5 liters of water. Separately, salt is diluted in 1 liter of hot water. Salt solution is poured into milk of lime and mixed. Separately, ultramarine (or other coloring pigments that give the whitewash the desired shade) is soaked in water and gradually introduced into the composition. Before use, water is added to the composition to a volume of 10 l, mixed and filtered. Instead of salt, aluminum-potassium alum can be introduced into this composition in an amount of 200 g per 10 liters of the composition.
Composition on lime dough: lime dough containing 50% water, 2.5-3 kg; table salt - 0.1 kg;
alkali-resistant pigments - 0.1 kg.
Method of preparation: lime dough is diluted in 2-3 liters of water, table salt is dissolved in 1 liter of water. Slightly stirring, the salt dissolved in water is poured into the lime dough. Then you can introduce pigments (most often ultramarine). Gradually adding water, the composition is brought to 10 liters and filtered.

Lime compositions are applied most often with brushes or paint sprayers with a nozzle with a diameter of 3-4 mm. When finishing ceilings and walls with lime whitewash, it is recommended to moisten and prime the surface (preferably with a lime primer).
After that, 1-2 layers of lime whitewash are applied. Considering the fact that lime compositions have a high alkalinity, special precautions must be taken when working with them: wear goggles during work, and gloves on your hands.
In case of contact of the skin of the hands with lime, the hands must be washed with water and lubricated with a nourishing cream. It is also not recommended to mix lime whitewash on a wooden floor: difficult-to-remove stains may form.
If you used brushes when applying whitewash, you need to remember that lime destroys the pile of brushes. Therefore, at the end of whitewashing, the brushes should be immediately rinsed with water, and then the action of alkali should be neutralized by lowering the brushes into a container of water diluted with vinegar.

APPLICATION OF LIME WHITE ON A NEW LAYER OF PLASTER
When applying a lime coating on new plaster, you need to remember that a second primer (lime intermediate layer) is needed here: it serves as the basis for defective (something damaged) ceilings. Before applying such a primer, the surface is covered with a layer of lime milk with the addition of sound soap. For 10 kg of lime dough, add 30-40 g of soap and (if necessary) a little water.
In order for lime to form a vitreous coating that can absorb water vapor, table salt is added to it. Such a coating takes on the qualities of a protective layer. In such cases, 50-60 g of table salt dissolved in 1-1.5 liters of cold water is added to 10 kg of lime dough or thick milk of lime.

Whitewashing of ceilings and walls on new plaster is carried out with pure lime milk, which is diluted with water, depending on how intensively the working surface absorbs moisture. Lime milk should not be too thick, because when thickened, it is unevenly distributed over the surface and is poorly rubbed.
Lime mortar is applied with a sufficiently moistened brush. First, the ceiling is whitened, then the walls. Whitewashing is best done in two layers so that the bottom does not shine through. The second layer should be applied only on the previously dried first.
Often a tinting pigment (most often ultramarine) is added to the lime coating, but strictly in a volume not exceeding 10%. A larger amount of pigment reduces the setting ability of lime, and also does not give a vitreous coating and leads to weathering of the whitewash.
The pigment is well triturated, mixed with water and rubbed into milk of lime. The composition prepared in this way is diluted with water and filtered to remove lumps of unextinguished lime.

LIME PAINT ON OLD PLASTER
Well-cleaned old plaster is covered with a composition containing lime milk and 2-4% drying oil. Lime whitewash applied with a brush on old plaster is rubbed with a wide flat brush.
It must be remembered that the coating will be more durable the longer it dries. Therefore, it is better to finish with lime in wet weather (even better in cool weather), and it is better to whitewash rooms located on the sunny side in the early morning.
It is also not recommended to whitewash with lime at air temperatures below 5 ° C, since low temperatures form cracks in the lime composition. If, for any reason, after 10 days after whitewashing, a dry film remains in some places, it should be dried artificially.

COLOR SPECTRUM
The bleached ceiling can be pure white, or it can have different shades of the entire color palette, depending on the general background of the room. However, cream and blue-blue tones are most often used.
Premises intended for recreation (bedrooms) are usually painted in green and blue tones. Moreover, the designers claim that even the blue ceiling in the bedroom will not look out of place if it is in harmony with the overall tone of the room.

Ceilings (and often walls) in utility rooms (basements, pantries, garages, etc.) are usually finished in white or light colors (cream, coffee, various shades of gray or yellowish). The color is chosen based on hygienic considerations (the possibility of using anti-mold preparations and disinfectants).
With the help of color, you can also adjust the space in the room. So, rooms of dark tones seem smaller, light ones, on the contrary, are larger than they really are. Monochromatic rooms seem stricter, more formal, but also less expressive.
Thus, by choosing the right colors and shades for finishing ceilings and walls, you can adjust the overall appearance of the room, as well as the height of the room.
So, for example, if you paint the walls up to the ceiling or use a ceiling rod to change the color of the walls to the color of the ceiling, you can visually increase the height of the room. And accordingly, if the ceiling is whitewashed to the very surface of the walls, the height of the room will visually decrease.

If the whitewashed ceiling has a darker shade compared to the walls, this visually reduces the room. Therefore, it is recommended to distribute the color scheme in this way only in rooms with high ceilings.
A narrow and long room can be visually expanded and made shorter by whitewashing the ceiling (and possibly the walls) so that the color intensity increases from the door to the window.
Thus, with the help of color, you can influence the overall perception of the room, change some elements in the design of the apartment and create the right mood.

Now, after more or less detailed information about the different types of ceiling finishes, let's summarize. Chalk whitewash is well suited for finishing ceilings in halls, bedrooms and other living rooms.

In bathrooms, baths, showers, swimming pools, etc., it is better to use lime whitewash, because the finish with chalk compounds is “afraid” of moisture, and the lime film formed after finishing with lime is durable, moisture resistant and, in addition, has disinfectant properties.
Lime coating can be used indoors and in rooms exposed to atmospheric factors. Lime milk is also often used for whitewashing basements, closets, laundries, garages, woodsheds. The relatively cheap price of this material makes it the most sought after.
Water-based finish is well suited for ceilings in toilets, kitchens, loggias. The ceiling, finished with a water-based emulsion, can be subjected to wet cleaning, but prolonged exposure to water vapor should be avoided.
So, there are several options for finishing the ceilings in the apartment. Having become acquainted with some of them, we can conclude which one is most acceptable in a particular room or room. Processed