Is a chimney. If everything is done in accordance with the technology, then the smoke will go up - out, and the heat will spread around the room. The process of laying a brick chimney can be perfectly performed by a master or an experienced builder. If you want to save time and money, you can also build a brick chimney with your own hands, for this it is enough to follow a few recommendations.
During the laying of the chimney, it is necessary to adhere to some rules and regulations, thanks to which the operation of the heating system will be absolutely safe:
- Exclude the presence of horizontal sections, as exhaust gases will be deposited on them.
- If the roof is flat, then the outer part of the chimney must be at least 1 m high.
- In cases where the roof has a pitched shape, it is necessary to calculate the distance from the place for the chimney to the ridge, if it is less than 150 cm, then it should rise 50 cm in height, if about 300 cm - at the same level.
For the correct calculation of this parameter, it may be necessary to consult a specialist in order to comply with all fire safety standards and regulations.
We calculate the size and configuration
Before proceeding with the masonry, it is necessary to make some calculations. You can do this process on your own. With the correct calculation, a high-quality chimney will come out, which means that the amount of fuel for heating will be minimized, all combustion waste will go outside without difficulty, and fresh air will circulate in the room.
A correctly calculated chimney height parameter will allow you to organize good traction, which means that the combustion process will be of the highest quality and efficient.
Fire safety must be calculated depending on the thickness of the walls: wide ones will heat up for a long time, while one layer of brick will warm up in just an hour.
It is necessary to make calculations for each parameter on an individual basis, depending on the room, the roof, as well as the type of heating system.
The second important preparatory stage is the choice of building material. During the laying of the chimney, only brick and cement mortar will be needed. It is very important to choose the right type of brick. It is worth choosing a refractory and of the highest quality type, in which all sides are as smooth and even as possible. The shape of each element must have identical dimensions.
Then you need to proceed to the selection of components for the solution. The composition should include: sand, clay, water, cement. Each component affects the quality of the chimney: fine sand, high-quality cement, clay without impurities. Having such source materials, you can independently build any chimney.
Chimney masonry tools:
- grinder (for cutting bricks of a certain size);
- ruler;
- marker (for data accuracy).
Before laying a brick chimney, one important point must be taken into account - the mortar layer must be small in order to obtain a strong and reliable structure. The laying process is standard - as for the construction of any building: each row should be moved half a brick to the side to get maximum adhesion.
When forming a cutting and an otter, experts recommend using metal rods that must be built into the brickwork, but the reinforcement should not cross the smoke channel. How to make the clogging of the chimney minimal so that the soot inside practically does not settle on the walls? It is necessary to smooth the walls of the structure with plaster.
During the construction of the walls of the chimney, small holes should be left so that the cleaning process does not bring inconvenience.
The riser must be folded in the attic (roof), while it must be made close to. A hole is made directly in it (or the roof is partially disassembled), through which the pipe will be passed out. The height of the riser must be higher than the height of the ridge.
After about 10–15 rows, it is necessary to complete the neck of the chimney, the parameters of which are performed as desired. At the very end, arrange a cap, on top of which you can install a cap or weather vane.
To complete the construction, it is necessary to make fastening and thermal insulation, which ensures the efficient operation of the heating system.
As you can see, you can build a brick chimney yourself, if you take into account the recommendations of experts and follow the technology. To get acquainted with the visual processes, it is enough to watch a special video in which all the little things are taken into account. If you have questions on the topic, then write them in the comments to the article.
Video
After watching the video, you can get acquainted with the technology of laying a brick chimney for a fireplace:
Scheme
Thanks to these schemes, you can carry out high-quality brickwork:
A photo
Building a high-quality brick chimney with your own hands is not the same as attaching a metal pipe. Every seam, tightness and strict compliance with fire safety rules are important here. The main task of any chimney is to remove fuel combustion products from the building. And this process is helped by the draft that is created inside the chimney - it is she who removes hot vapors and ensures the flow of air into the combustion chamber in order to maintain the combustion process. The main advantages of a brick chimney are that it has excellent draft in any weather, a wonderful view, and it lasts much longer than modern metal pipes and sandwiches. So, let's figure it out - how to build a brick chimney in compliance with absolutely all the rules.
The main components of a brick chimney
So, what exactly is a brick chimney? At the very beginning - overhead pipe, which is installed directly on the furnace. It has a latch. An overhead pipe is laid out with a special dressing of bricks.
Five or six rows before the interfloor overlap, the overhead part ends, and the fluff neck begins. The fluff is the subsequent broadening of the brick chimney, but its cross section remains the same as throughout the entire pipe. In fact, only the outer part of the fluff is widened - by 25-40 cm.
That part of the brick chimney that goes to the attic is riser, a flat part that will go all the way to the roof.
The next cutting is an otter, a special extension on four sides, no less than 10 cm. It is thanks to him that atmospheric precipitation does not fall into the gaps between the roof and the chimney into the attic of the bath.
But after the otter, the neck is already placed - the same size as the chimney. Its masonry ends with the last extension, which forms the head of the chimney. You can already put a metal cap or deflector on it to keep the chimney itself from snow, rain and wind-blown debris. And it's good for traction too.
Laying the chimney - brick by brick
How exactly the construction and lining of a brick chimney takes place, you can see in a step-by-step photo and video, ordering is also at your disposal. And we will give you practical tips along the way that will help you achieve good quality work at all stages.
Stage I. Preparatory work
First of all, familiarize yourself with the drawings for the construction of the chimney. Take the usual standard chimney scheme for this, do not risk it. If you have an ordinary wood-burning stove, you need a layout of a completely brick chimney, and if the stove is gas, then one in which there will additionally be a metal pipe of a special alloy.
Before starting to lay a brick chimney, a rectangular foundation is built for it. It can be built from solid brick or concrete with metal reinforcement, the main thing is that it should be at least 30 cm in height. And the width of the foundation should be 15 cm larger than the chimney itself.
Stage II. Chimney masonry
You can carefully consider how a standard brick chimney is laid, according to the detailed diagram below:
Whatever the height of your bath, you will need to build a chimney no less than 5 meters high - otherwise there will be no draft. It is necessary to lay out such a chimney with a special refractory or red solid brick. As a binder, you can use a cement-lime or cement-sand mortar, and where the temperature is especially high, you will need a special mixture for laying the stove.
Experienced stove-makers chip off the desired piece from a brick with one blow to it - but if you do not have such a skill, use a regular grinder and a marker to mark. It is these tools that will allow you to make accurate plates for the smoke channel in the cut and otter area.
Try to make the seams as thin as possible - then the chimney will be strong. The optimal thickness of the seams for a brick chimney is 15 mm. To form a cut and an otter, use metal rods for convenience - mount them directly into the brickwork, but so that the reinforcement does not cross the smoke channel itself. Keep in mind that both the width and height of your chimney will directly depend on how thick you will make the seams in the masonry - they must be the same! In general, the thickness of the walls of a brick chimney is about 10 cm, which really provides reliable fire safety.
Attention! During the construction of a brick chimney, be sure to leave special holes for cleaning it. The brick walls of the chimney must be perfectly flat, and all corners must be straight.
Finish the inner surface of the chimney for smoothness with plaster. What for? The fact is that the more rough the chimney in the nutria, the more soot will settle on its walls. And it worsens traction and one day it can simply catch fire, which is completely unsafe. Just make sure you apply the plaster correctly. Many experienced stove-makers also believe that the brick chimney must also be whitewashed from the outside - this will immediately show where the soot seeps through a completely imperceptible gap.
Stage III. Fastening and thermal insulation
If you build such a chimney directly against the wall, then fasten it to it for reliability with metal anchors every 30 cm. Where the chimney will be connected to the ceiling and roof, lay asbestos fabric or fiberglass. Although the brick heats up slowly, the risk of something catching fire must be kept to a minimum. Another rule: a brick chimney should rise at least half a meter above the roof ridge - this is important.
That outer part of the chimney, which is higher, must be insulated and finished with facing bricks or a special roofing finish. Like this. If you follow all the technologies when building a brick chimney in your bath, it will turn out to be much safer, stronger and more reliable than the most modern modular systems at an exorbitant price.
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Last revision: 05/15/2017
The pipe is used to remove exhaust gases from a home stove or fireplace during their combustion. There are two types of chimneys: mounted - with its base rests directly on the stove, and root - is assembled as a separate structure. For self-construction of a brick chimney, read this article with recommendations from the best craftsmen.
Requirements
In accordance with the norms of SNiP (building codes and rules), when building a brick chimney, as well as during its possible reconstruction, the following requirements are met:
- When laying the working channel, horizontal sections of the exhaust gas wiring should not be formed. If it is impossible to do without them, it is allowed to use horizontal segments with a total length of not more than 100 cm.
- In the case of a flat roof, the outer part of the chimney rises above its surface by at least 100 cm.
With a pitched roof, the requirements for the outside look a little different:
- when the distance from the pipe outlet to the ridge line is less than 150 cm, the first one is at least 50 cm higher than it;
- if the specified distance reaches 300 cm - the pipe is installed flush with the ridge;
- when they are more than 300 cm apart from each other, the upper cut of the chimney pipe must coincide with a conditional line extended at an angle of 10 degrees to the horizon of the ridge.
Masonry of the lower section
Before laying down a brick chimney, you should familiarize yourself with its design from the following elements:
- Sealant sealant.
- Upper cone made of stainless steel.
- Lightweight roofing slab ("under brickwork").
- Facial laying.
- Thermal insulation.
- Ventilation channel.
- Chamotte channel.
- Console (base) plate.
- Additional ventilation holes.
You will need this tool:
- ordinary trowel (trowel);
- construction plumb;
- electric drill with a nozzle;
- level of any type, roulette.
Note! A prerequisite for the assembly of a brick chimney is the use of a pre-prepared clay solution mixed with clean and dry sand for its laying. Follow the verticality of the structure in relation to the horizon, carefully controlling it with the help of a plumb line throughout the entire length of the exhaust duct. Drive in a couple of nails in the upper and lower parts and stretch a strong twine between them, focusing on which it will be possible to control the strict verticality of the masonry.
Making "fluff"
Expansion of the chimney brick channel, arranged in the ceiling slab, eliminates the possibility of thermal exposure to flammable parts of the ceiling structure.
This structural element is usually made of either brick or concrete. But simple insulation of the passage section is allowed with a special material that does not support combustion (basalt mineral wool, for example). In the latter case, the insulation plate has a minimum thickness of 10 cm.
Let us consider in more detail the arrangement of "fluff" from traditional material. It is necessary to strictly follow the order of laying, with the expansion of each subsequent row by about 4 cm.
Note! The height of the resulting element should not be lower than the inter-attic floor in the structure. Upon completion of the construction of this part of the canal, the junction with the building structure must be laid on all sides with a thick layer of special fire-resistant sheet asbestos at least 1 cm thick.
Upon completion of the “fluffing” design, the remaining part of the chimney channel (up to the plane of the roofing) is laid in the same way as before the expansion, with the obligatory control of all plumbing operations.
Arrangement of the "otter"
The chimney must have another extension, called an “otter”, arranged outside above the roof plane. Such a construct is necessary to protect the upper part from adverse climatic influences.
For buildings with different angles of roof slope, the design of this type of element will have certain features, which you can find in special sources.
Note! With all possible versions of the “otter”, the laying of this section of the chimney is always done with the addition of dry cement to the masonry mortar in a ratio of 1:10 and the addition of a small amount of water.
The order in which an external extension is laid out
From the roof level, two rows of bricks are laid, the third row is laid with an offset in one plane outward by 1/4. It is important that a quarter shift is made only in one direction! Subsequent rows are laid exactly with the same 1/4 offset, but it is already done from 2 sides, that is, in the direction of two perpendicular planes relative to the offset of the previous row.
Make sure that the size of the inner channel does not change along its entire length.
Below is a selection of photos and diagrams of different designs of brick chimneys.
A photo
Nowadays, there are a large number of different chimneys suitable for a solid fuel or gas boiler. The latest developments in this area and the emergence of new materials allow manufacturers to produce chimneys, which in their design are separate complex units that can successfully resist corrosion, soot deposits and condensate. But still, despite this, many people prefer to lay down a brick chimney with their own hands.
Recently, the construction of country houses has become massive. Along with this increased interest in fireplaces and stoves. People are trying to build stoves according to old, proven recipes that they inherited from their fathers and grandfathers. But the kiln art in a certain period of development of our country in some regions was almost completely lost. Today we will try to help you fold the chimney with your own hands.
Chimney - what does it consist of?
Before laying down a brick chimney, you need to figure out what parts it consists of. After all, many people think that brick chimneys are an ordinary rectangular pipe made of brick laid on mortar. This is not entirely true. But let's go in order.
At the beginning . This part of the pipe is installed directly on the furnace. It can be fitted with a valve. The extension pipe must be laid out in compliance with the dressing of bricks in each row. The set-on part is not brought to the interfloor overlap of 5 or 6 rows. It all depends on the height of the furnace, the room and the thickness of the floor. This place is called the flare neck.
When laying a brick pipe, the cross section of the smoke channel in the overhead pipe and the head must be the same. Thus, the cross section of the entire flue channel in any place of the chimney has the same size.
Fluff or cutting should be laid out in several rows, widening the outer part of the chimney for 250 - 400 mm.
Then you should lay out another cut, which is called an otter. The otter forms an extension on the chimney on all four sides, not less than 100 mm. This expansion prevents atmospheric precipitation from entering through the gaps between the chimney and the roof directly into the attic space. The absence of an otter leads to the penetration of moisture into the attic, leading to the destruction of the supporting structures of the roof and ceiling.
Above the otter, the chimney must be laid in the same way as the riser. This place is called the neck of the tube.
After the neck, the outer masonry expands again, forming the head of the chimney. On the head, you can install a weather vane or a cap made of metal, which will protect the inside of the chimney from precipitation.
A well-chosen weather vane or cap can significantly increase the draft in the chimney.
Do-it-yourself chimney laying
We have considered all the main parts and their names, it's time to tell you how to fold a brick chimney with your own hands.
Basic training completed
We will not mention today about materials, tools or which brick for the chimney to use, quite a lot has already been said about this on the pages of our resource. We will assume that we are all set. Our task today is to consider how to properly build a brick chimney.
The first stage - acquaintance with the drawings
Before us is a drawing of a brick chimney. Although there are many other options, this is the standard brick chimney for a stove, solid fuel boiler or fireplace. Using a special alloy metal pipe inside such a chimney can easily turn it into. Since the requirements for the conditions of smoke removal of a solid fuel and gas boiler are somewhat different.
The numbers on the drawing indicate:
- Flygarka.
- Pipe neck.
- cement mortar.
- Otter.
- Roof.
- Crate.
- Rafter.
- Riser.
- Cutting (fluff).
- Overlap.
- Insulation.
- Smoke damper.
- Furnace neck.
It is important to know: fluff and otter can be placed a little differently, it all depends on the location of the chimney relative to the roof and on the angle of its slope.
The size of the channel directly depends on the thickness of the masonry joints - remember this.
Chimney masonry - first steps
Formation of cutting
Looking from the inside, it becomes clear that the fluff is beginning to take shape.
- In the next row, the outer dimensions are already 570x710 mm.
- Bricks 90 - 100 mm thick are inserted inside.
Finishing cutting
- The fifth row is laid out with a whole brick.
- Lay out the sixth row in exactly the same way as the fifth, but strictly observing the dressing.
If necessary, to make the fluff higher, you can lay another row, with dressing under the underlying masonry.
Works in the attic
- The riser is carried through the roof.
This completes the work in the attic, then you need to start building a part of the chimney on the roof.
"Roof work"
On the roof we continue to lay out the riser. Carefully monitor the dressing of brickwork.
- The riser is displayed 1 - 2 rows above the roof, then the laying out of the otter begins.
Otter - making ledges
- The otter is laid out in nine rows.
- Each next row is larger than the previous one in outer size by one fourth of a brick.
- In this case, do not forget about observing the size of the smoke channel.
- Choose internal brick plates so that the smoke channel does not expand or narrow.
As you can see, in this row, the brickwork forms only one ledge, forward. Along the edges, the outer dimension of the chimney remained unchanged.
Thus, we have a front and two side protrusions. It remains to lay out the rear ledge.
Finishing the otter
We spread the neck
You can look at all dimensions for the height of the chimney above the roof on our resource. This applies to all chimneys, whether they are chimneys for brick boilers or other thermal units.
The final stage - the head
Inexperienced builders believe that laying a brick chimney is the same as building walls. However, the device of the chimney has its own nuances. In particular, experts do not recommend the use of a cement-sand mortar. Such a solution will not withstand sharp temperature fluctuations that occur in the wall of the chimney pipe. In addition, the usual solution will be destroyed by condensate, which inevitably settles on the pipe wall.
Therefore, it is necessary to lay a brick chimney using a thermo-efficient and chemical-resistant mortar. You can prepare a solution using ready-made mixtures. But it is expensive, so many people prefer to prepare a thermo-efficient solution on their own, such a solution consists of cement, sand, lime and fireclay. Some experts recommend using a clay solution.
If the boiler is gas
If a brick chimney is justified for a wood-burning stove and a solid fuel boiler, then for a gas boiler this is not the best chimney option. It's all about the different operating modes of the furnace, solid fuel and gas boiler. If solid fuel equipment does not require high traction, then the use of a rectangular brick pipe for a gas boiler will lead to a decrease in the efficiency of the heating unit.
When using a gas boiler, the requirements for a chimney device are different than when installing solid fuel equipment. Therefore, if a house is being built, then a gas boiler requires a chimney from a metal pipe.
If a gas boiler is installed instead of a solid fuel or wood-burning stove, then the construction of a new chimney is impractical. However, the requirements for the chimney of a gas boiler must be met. In this case, a brick chimney is lined, that is, a metal pipe is installed inside an existing brick chimney. Thus, the requirements for the smoke exhaust device will be met and you will not have to disassemble the old pipe.
Nothing is impossible
By and large, do-it-yourself brick chimneys are a doable task for any person who loves to work with his hands for his own pleasure. It is sometimes believed that brick chimneys are a thing of the past. This is not the case, for example, lining a brick chimney with pipes with a special coating, but the device of a brick chimney allows you to do this, allows you to use them in working with the most modern heating boilers. We hope that after reading this article, you no longer have the question of how to make a brick chimney for a fireplace or stove with your own hands. Try, practice, and brick chimneys built by your own hands will delight you and your loved ones with perfect work under any conditions. Good luck to you!
There is no oven without a chimney. The removal of carbon monoxide and smoke from the furnace is a necessary condition for the correct operation of the stove. What to make a pipe from and how to arrange it so that it lasts a long time and does not create additional problems? An experienced stove-maker will answer without hesitation - from the same material as the stove itself. This is due to the fact that different materials have different coefficients of thermal expansion. And if brick and metal are simultaneously heated during the furnace, then a gap forms over time at the place of their connection. Smoke begins to seep through the gap, this disrupts the smooth operation of the stove, and also poses a serious threat to the life and health of households. Therefore, if you want to build a chimney for a brick oven, you need to do this also from bricks.
What is a brick chimney and where is it used
Chimneys are used to remove the gaseous products of combustion in stoves, fireplaces and heating boilers. Smoke, carbon monoxide and soot under the action of traction are carried out of the furnace into the chimney and removed to the outside. As they move, they cool down, giving off heat to the walls of the chimney.
To remove combustion products from a brick oven, it is necessary to build a chimney from the same material, i.e. from brick
Unlike metal pipes, brick has:
But a brick chimney also has a rather significant minus. In country houses and country cottages, it is not possible to fold cylindrical pipes, which are ideal for the passage of hot gases. The internal section of a square or rectangular shape creates obstacles for the expiration of smoke. As a result, a layer of soot quickly forms on the inner walls, which reduces traction. Accordingly, they have to be cleaned more often than metal ones.
The design of the chimney and the principle of operation
The classic chimney design is a vertical tower, inside of which there is a through hole connecting the furnace firebox with an open space outside the house. According to the laws of physics, air pressure decreases as you move away from the surface of the earth. As a result, a draft arises inside the pipe - the desire of the air mass to move from bottom to top. If air access from below is blocked, the thrust disappears. Therefore, a smoke damper or a view must be installed in the chimney, with which it is possible to regulate the draft.
With the help of a damper, you can adjust the size of the smoke channel, and therefore the draft
Since the pipe is operated in residential buildings, it should not pose a fire hazard, therefore, the laying is carried out taking into account maximum protection against possible fire. Among the stove-makers, a certain terminology has been established, which reflects the structure and functional purpose of the individual elements of the pipe.
In some cases, a combined pipe design is practiced. Brickwork ends in the attic and then a metal or asbestos pipe is mounted to it, which goes to the roof. In this case, there is no need for an otter, neck and head, which saves a lot of time and money. At the same time, we must not forget that the cross-sectional area of \u200b\u200ba metal pipe should not differ from the cross-section of a brick one in a smaller direction. The combination of a stainless steel pipe nested in an asbestos pipe has proven itself well.
In the upper part of the chimney, where the temperature of the flue gases is not so high, it is possible to make a transition from a brick pipe to a metal one.
In both cases, the upper hole must be closed with an umbrella (or deflector), which will prevent direct rain and snow from entering the pipe.
Calculation of the main parameters of the pipe
All calculations for the chimney must be carried out at the design stage of the furnace project. The project must be carried out by a qualified engineer or craftsman who is well versed in all the nuances of the furnace business. It is impossible to plan the dimensions of the pipe in isolation from the dimensions of the furnace and heat exchanger. Everything is interconnected and must correspond to one goal - the coordinated work of furnace equipment.
If during the construction of the fireplace there is no “body” of the stove, and the firebox is directly connected to the chimney, then in the Russian stove there are additional heating passages in the walls, and it is impossible not to make allowances for this. The presence of passages changes the draft and lengthens the path of the flue gases several times. Accordingly, the chimney must create a greater vacuum so that the movement of gases is accelerated, and soot does not settle inside the duct. A separate topic may be the calculation of the parameters of the chimney in the sauna stove. It is important here that the draft is not excessive, and the burning fuel has time to give off heat inside the steam room.
The task of the stove-maker is to take into account not only internal, but also external factors - the location of the pipe in relation to the roof, the characteristics of the local climate, and even the influence of the landscape.
Chimney draft can be affected by nearby tall buildings and trees, as well as the wrong choice of chimney height.
For gas heating systems, due to their increased fire hazard, the calculation of the parameters of the chimney is carried out by specialists who develop the boiler. Dimensions are indicated in the technical data sheet and are mandatory.
In private construction, where the furnace is predominantly fired with solid fuel (wood, coal, peat or fuel briquettes), the following rules can be followed to ensure the correct operation of any furnace:
- the internal cross-sectional area of a rectangular chimney in closed-type furnaces should not exceed the cross-sectional area of the blower;
- the internal cross-sectional area of the pipe in open-type stoves and fireplaces is calculated in a ratio of 1:10 in relation to the firebox.
It is believed that if the chimney structure has a rectangular shape, the ratio of the short side to the long side should be 1:2. In this case, the minimum allowable size of the channel section is 14 x 14 cm.
The size of the wall of the brick chimney channel should not be less than 14 cm
An important factor is the height of the pipe. Correct calculation allows:
- optimize the operation of the chimney and achieve the best efficiency indicators for heat transfer;
- ensure the safe operation of the heater, eliminate the leakage of harmful gases due to weak draft;
- ensure fire safety - with excessive draft, sparks and sheaves of flame can fly out of the pipe.
In the general case, the height is determined in accordance with SNiP 2.04.05–91:
- the minimum distance from the grate to the top of the chimney (excluding the protective umbrella) is 5 m;
- the optimal distance is 6 m.
Such parameters provide stable draft, i.e. the design of the chimney allows you to create a pressure drop sufficient to operate the stove at any time of the year. But in each particular case, you must also consider:
There is such an unpleasant phenomenon as reverse thrust. This term refers to the movement of smoke in the pipe in the opposite direction - from the chimney channel into the room. There may be several reasons for this, but the main one is the incorrect position of the chimney. As a rule - underestimated.
An error in choosing the height of the chimney often leads to back draft
Excess draft can always be eliminated by adjusting the air flow in the ash pan and flue dampers. Insufficient traction is exacerbated in several ways:
- Pipe extension.
- Cleaning the inner surface of the chimney channel.
- Installing a deflector.
The deflector not only increases draft, but also protects the chimney channel from moisture, debris and birds and bats.
According to experts, by installing a deflector on a chimney, traction can be increased by 15–20%
Video: how to calculate the height of the chimney
You will learn about which pipe is better to choose for a chimney, as well as the advantages and disadvantages of materials in our material:.
Making a brick chimney with your own hands
Knowing the features of the chimney device and having a ready-made project on hand, you can proceed with the independent construction of the chimney channel.
Materials and tools needed for the construction of the chimney
For self-construction of a chimney, you will need the following tools:
- trowel and mason's hammer;
- hydraulic level, plumb (or building laser level);
- construction bucket for mixing mortar;
- building rule, stitching;
- electric mixer (you can use a conventional drill with a nozzle);
- measuring instruments - tape measure, ruler.
Building a chimney requires standard mason tools
In the process of masonry, smaller building elements need to be made from bricks - brick plates, a quarter of a brick, a half, etc. An experienced bricklayer copes with the task with one measured blow of a hammer. A novice stove-maker who does not have such skills can use a grinder with a diamond disc. With its help, cutting of any required shape becomes easily accessible, although accompanied by a large amount of dust.
Some stove makers successfully use a template made of wood or metal for masonry. The template allows you to strictly adhere to the dimensions, which is especially important for the inner hole of the pipe.
In addition, you will need materials:
- red brick (by no means white - silicate) solid, hollow, fireclay, clinker;
- cement mixture (can be ready-made or prepared independently from sand, cement and clay);
- a set of smoke dampers or views;
- sheet metal or roofing.
Preparatory work before making a chimney
Before the immediate start of work on laying a brick pipe, it is necessary to carry out certain preparatory work:
During operation, hands come into contact with chemically aggressive solutions - it is recommended to use protective gloves to protect them.
When performing work on the roof, personal safety measures must be observed, as well as the use of scaffolding and rope insurance.
There should always be a first aid kit on the construction site with first aid for injuries and bleeding. Sometimes the chimney is not located in the center of the room, but is in contact with the bearing wall. This situation is often observed in the construction of fireplaces. In this case, you can use the wall structure of the chimney. It is pre-mounted during the construction of the main wall. It is appropriate to note here that among stove-makers, a classification of chimneys according to design features has been adopted:
- Brick overhead. Chimneys installed directly on the stove masonry.
- Brick indigenous. Pipes located separately from the furnace, standing on a separate foundation. They are in the form of a stand.
- Prefabricated. Individual blocks made of refractory concrete, which are stacked at the chimney installation site.
- Wall. Built into a load-bearing wall, significantly save space and volume of premises. However, it should be borne in mind that it is undesirable to mount wall pipes in external walls. Contact with cold outside air dramatically reduces the efficiency of such a chimney in terms of heat transfer.
In wooden houses, the places where the pipe adjoins the combustible elements of the building are accompanied by a thickening of 1–1.5 bricks. To avoid ignition, the joints are additionally laid with asbestos or felt sheets. Felt is pre-soaked in a liquid clay solution.
Step-by-step instructions for building a brick chimney
The construction of the chimney consists in laying brickwork in strict accordance with the plan for the location of the material in each row - in order. This plan must be drawn up during the preparation of the project for the construction of a chimney channel.
Each row of chimney masonry has a strictly defined arrangement of bricks.
We can only add that for the best bonding of bricks with mortar, it is recommended to adhere to the following installation settings:
- The solution is applied in a layer of 1.5–2 cm, the brick is wetted and coated with a solution. After installation in place of the masonry, the brick is pressed down so that the final thickness of the seam is 1 cm.
When laying each brick, it is necessary to check its position horizontally and vertically, and also maintain a joint thickness of 1 cm
- In the course of laying (after 5-6 rows), it is recommended to do a mop - grouting between bricks inside the chimney channel. The smooth inner surface will ensure good passage of exhaust gases, reduce the risk of soot deposits. Grouting can be done with a damp cloth.
Internal seams are leveled and rubbed with mortar along the masonry
- The installation of the smoke damper is usually carried out between the second and third row of bricks. But this rule is not rigid - you can adjust the installation location according to the situation. Immediately after installation, the valve is closed so that the cement mortar does not fall into the furnace.
A separate valve is placed on each smoke channel
- In the outer masonry - on the roof - a mortar with increased strength and moisture resistance characteristics is used. To do this, the proportion of the batch is changed, increasing the content of cement (instead of 1/4 they make 1/3). Moreover, cement is selected grade M 500 or M 600. For the head, it is often not a cement-sand composition, but a cement-clay one. It is made by adding 1 liter of cement to 10 liters of sand-clay mortar, which is used for laying the furnace.
When using hollow bricks, the internal cavities are filled with cement mortar
- It is important to keep the solution clean. It is unacceptable to get garbage into it, especially of organic origin.
- Straight sections of the chimney are laid out on a plumb line. To do this, strong silk threads are pulled in each corner and aligned vertically. The right angle is controlled with a square every 4-5 rows.
It is convenient to control the vertical position of the chimney walls with the help of cords stretched in each of the four corners
Video: DIY fireplace chimney
Features of the operation of brick chimneys
After the construction of the chimney is completed and the pipe has been successfully put into operation, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the features of using a brick stove. In order for the heating unit to serve for a long time and without accidents, simple but important rules must be observed.
- The main enemy of a brick is sudden changes in temperature. It is better to drown more often, but for short periods of time. For one furnace it is not recommended to make more than 2 bookmarks of fuel. This is especially true of coal, the combustion temperature of which exceeds 1000 degrees.
- Timely cleaning of the pipe from soot indefinitely extends the life of the chimney channel.
- If cracks appear on the furnace body and the chimney in particular, measures should be taken immediately to eliminate them. Launched cracks tend to progress rapidly and pose a threat not only to the integrity of the brickwork, but also to human health. Through small cracks, carbon monoxide penetrates into the living room, which is colorless and odorless, but is poisonous to all living things.
- The slightest malfunction in the doors of the firebox or blower (ash chamber) first significantly reduces the heat transfer of the furnace, and then leads to an avalanche-like accumulation of soot on the chimney channels. Having found a loosely closing door, view or valve, they should be repaired or replaced immediately.
- At least once a year it is necessary to carry out preventive maintenance of the furnace. It is best to do this at the end of summer, before the start of the heating season. The daily preventive procedure includes opening the blower door for 15–20 minutes. This simple action will allow you to briefly create maximum traction, which will pull the soot deposited on the walls into the external environment.
- The use of damp firewood adversely affects the cleanliness of smoky channels, especially in winter. It is more rational to use fuel briquettes, the humidity of which is much lower. Firewood should be harvested ahead of time - drying wood in a natural way is a long process (from a year to two).
Chimney cleaning and repair
To clean the pipe, both traditional methods and modern ones, based on the achievements of technical progress, are used.
From time immemorial, people whose profession was called a chimney sweep were engaged in the maintenance of furnaces. Today, finding a professional chimney sweep is problematic. They were replaced by chemicals, which, however, are also often called "Chimney Sweep".
It is very difficult to find a professional chimney sweep today, this profession is a thing of the past
So, a tool called "Chimney Sweep Log" has proven itself well. It contains salts of copper sulfate and other active chemical compounds. Burning in the furnace, the vapors of these substances interact with the soot deposited on the walls of the pipe. Under the action of heat, the reaction continues for several weeks and leads to the fact that the solid structure of soot crumbles and, falling back into the furnace, burns out. According to manufacturers, the use of "miracle log" twice a year allows you to completely remove soot from the pipe. The consequence of this is good traction and a high percentage of heat transfer from the furnace.
Manufacturers of the Log Chimney Sweeper claim that its use twice a year allows you to completely clean the chimney of soot
From folk remedies, one can note such effective methods of prevention as burning salt or soda once every 2 months (about 0.5 kg per furnace). The powder is poured into the combustion chamber at the moment when the firewood is well flared up and the temperature is maximum. After that, you need to tightly close all the doors, as the reaction can be quite violent.
Dry aspen firewood helps to clean the chimney well. The fact is that the aspen burns with a large release of heat, the flames are long and penetrate deep into the passages.
If there is no aspen or soda, you can use potato peels. To do this, you need to accumulate about half a bucket of potato peel. When burned in a furnace, the released substances bind soot and cause it to burn to the end.
The combustion temperature of aspen firewood reaches 800 degrees, so the soot on the walls of the chimney burns out
When performing work on the installation of chimneys, especially at the site of installation of the neck, otter and head, safety standards should be carefully observed. If you work carefully and follow the necessary instructions and technologies, it is quite possible to fold a brick chimney with your own hands.
