A vestibule is a room that separates the atmosphere of your home from the outside. The vestibule solves two problems (1) thermal insulation of the house in the area of the front door and (2) cutting off cold (and hot in summer) air when opening the front door. Both of these tasks are very important, especially in our region, where the external temperature often differs from the internal temperature by tens of degrees.
People who have not lived in a private house in winter often underestimate the role of the vestibule and try to combine it with the hallway. Living in the country in the summer and in city apartments with entrances in the winter does not give them an intuitive understanding of the need for a vestibule and they often abandon it, replacing it with a hallway, staircase hall, etc.
The error appears in winter, when no amount of heating or heaters can stop the cold and draft from the front door, and with each opening of it, all the warm air instantly evaporates, and in the farthest bedroom you immediately feel that someone has entered from the street.
Warm vestibule - warm home
We insulate the front door
In a house made of SIP panels, the thermal resistance of the wall exceeds 3.5 sq.m*degrees/watt - this is excellent thermal protection that complies with European standards, but the door usually has a thermal resistance of 0.3-0.7 units, i.e. through 2 square meters of the front door the same amount of heat escapes as through 7-20 square meters of wall. Even more heat escapes through the cracks when the door does not fit tightly.
First of all, you need to remove the draft so that not at any point There was no free air movement at the door junction. Even small microcirculation can lead to heat loss. The tightness of the door needs to be checked sometimes, because... In winter, materials often lose their elasticity.
When choosing a door, you need to find out how it is insulated from the inside; it is not for nothing that the older generation lined the doors with cotton wool and leatherette.
The vestibule is too small - you will have to open both doors at the same time
Cutting off the air
Even a sealed, insulated door doesn't help keep the warm air in when we enter the house. Almost instantly the room air is replaced with air external environment. Fortunately, the heat capacity of air is very low, because... air weighs very little. Let's take a simple example: a vestibule measuring 2x3 meters, 2.8 m high, has a volume of about 17 cubic meters. If all the air with a temperature of 20 degrees is replaced with air of 0 degrees, we will lose as much heat as 2 square meters of 12 mm thick OSB contains. If we close the door, then after a few minutes the air will be heated again by the surrounding objects.
If the door from the vestibule to the house is open, we will cool not 17, but all 300 cubic meters of air, and to heat them up again, we will need to spend more time and money.
Conclusions
- In the house for permanent residence in most regions of Russia there should be a vestibule.
- The vestibule must have two doors.
- The entrance door of the vestibule must be insulated and have no cracks.
- The vestibule should be large enough so that when entering and leaving the house you do not need to open both doors at the same time.
- The vestibule should not be too large so as not to lose a lot when opening the door warm air.
- The vestibule does not have to be heated if you want to reduce heating costs.
- In the vestibule you can take off wet, dirty and cold clothes, but a separate hallway is required for undressing.
- If a vestibule is not provided, you can try glazing the porch. If this does not work, you need to separate the cold hallway from the rest of the rooms with a door.
The warm floor in the hallway is an element of the heating system of the apartment or country house, allowing to improve the internal microclimate and provide comfortable accommodation homeowners and tenants.
Depending on the element that provides heating of the floor surface, heated floor systems are classified as water and electric.
In water-type structures, the source of thermal energy is the coolant circulating through the heating circuit laid in the floor preparation.
The heating circuit is made of metal-plastic pipes, laid in the form of a coil, and water or another liquid substance with good thermal conductivity characteristics is used as a coolant.
In systems electric type, the source of heat is electrical energy.
Such devices, depending on their design, can be divided into three groups:
- Heating cable - laid in the floor screed in the form of a coil.
- A heating mat is the same heating cable, but already laid on a flexible base (fiberglass or other similar material) in the factory.
- Thermal film is a source of infrared radiation; thermoelements are located inside the film.
The choice of heated floor design depends on the area of the heated surface, technical characteristics the premises where the installation of this system is required, as well as the indicators of the power supply system and other parameters that determine the possibility of using this or that type of heat source.
Advantages and disadvantages of heated floors
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Depending on the design of heating devices and the type of heat source, “warm floor” systems are characterized by the following advantages and disadvantages, which can be formulated as follows.
The advantages of installing a water-type heated floor include:
- Environmental safety.
- Favorable temperature regime provided by the parameters of the circulating coolant.
- No need to install heating radiators increases usable area premises where this system is installed.
- Comfortable perception of transferred heat from the floor surface into interior space premises (radiation through the entire floor surface).
- Cost-effectiveness, in comparison with electrical analogues, in terms of payment for the services of energy supply organizations.
- No electromagnetic radiation.
The disadvantages of water type heating are:
- Lower reliability compared to electrical analogues.
- Difficulty obtaining permission to execute installation work in apartment buildings.
- The labor intensity and complexity of installing such a system.
- The need to perform additional installation work related to waterproofing the base on which installation is being carried out, which in turn leads to an increase in the cost of construction and installation work in general.
- If it is necessary to reduce the temperature of the coolant entering the “warm floor” system, the installation of additional equipment is required ( mixing unit, circulation pump), which also leads to an increase in the cost of this type of system.
For "warm floor" systems based on the use electrical energy, also has its advantages, in addition to those listed above related to water systems:
- Wide range of uses for objects and premises for various purposes.
- Easy installation and maintenance.
- Long service life.
Main disadvantage electric heating– these are the costs associated with paying bills for consumed electrical energy.
Installation of heated floors in the hallway
Depending on the area of the hallway or corridor located at the entrance to individual house or apartment, as well as covering material (laminate, tiles, linoleum) and floor structures ( concrete screed, reinforced concrete slab, lumber), the heating system is also selected.
A water structure, as a rule, is used when it is necessary to heat a large floor area, while the cost of its maintenance does not depend on this indicator.
The pipes are laid on waterproofing, which in turn is placed on a layer of thermal insulation placed on the base (floor slabs basement). After that he lies down reinforcement mesh and the entire system is filled concrete mortar. The floor finishing material can be different, depending on the personal preferences of the user and the style of the hallway.
When using electric heating, the design looks like this.
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A special heating cable is laid on a layer of thermal insulation, which is placed on the ceiling. The cable is secured with a special adhesive mounting tape.
A temperature sensor is placed in the space between the cable turns to monitor the temperature in the heating zone. A sand-cement screed is laid on top of the cable, on which the finishing material is placed.
The temperature sensor is connected to the thermostat, which operates the system in automatic mode in accordance with the specified parameters.
When using a heating mat, the “pie” itself for laying the heating element and the automation system are similar to the option of using a heating cable. The difference is that the mat is manufactured in a factory and has certain geometric dimensions and electrical power, determining the possibility of its use in a particular place.
The installation of such a system is much simpler than when using a cable, since to install it it is enough to roll out the heating mat itself on a prepared base and carry out subsequent construction, installation and finishing work.
Infrared heating (film)
It is the most secure and energy-efficient effective way floor heating. Infrared rays heat the surface of the floor, walls, objects and things located in the area of their radiation, after which their heat is transferred to the air in this room.
Due to their small geometric dimensions (film thickness), such systems are installed directly under the floor covering.
Whether a warm floor is needed in the hallway and which system to choose, if there is such a need, everyone decides for themselves individually, focusing on the requirements for the microclimate of a given room and economic feasibility.
According to standards living rooms(bedrooms and children's rooms) must be separated from the street by at least three doors. When they are opened sequentially cold air remains between them and does not enter the living quarters.
At the same time, the house remains warm, heating devices They don’t “warm up” the street. And in the summer, the coolness in the house is preserved, which is especially important when using air conditioning.
Thus, both winter and summer provide more efficient use climate control technology and savings in heating or cooling costs are created.
In addition, the vestibule blocks the formation of drafts and prevents smoke and unnecessary odors from entering the house. Finally, here you can leave your shoes, and with them the dirt from the street.
Reliable insulation
Whether the vestibule will act as a temperature barrier for other rooms depends, first of all, on its thermal insulation qualities.
External wall vestibule, being part of the external structures of the house, - compound element thermal circuit building, and its “pie” should help ensure and maintain the “thermos effect”.
The wall is made of the same material as the entire house. But if additional insulation, for example, for a wall made of ceramic block or laminated veneer lumber is usually not required, then in the vestibule area experts recommend installing a layer of thermal insulation made of foam plastic, perlite or mineral wool slabs(basalt or glass wool).
For the latter, film vapor barrier with inside, which will prevent the insulation layer from getting wet and losing its qualities. From the outside, a reinforcing mesh is strengthened onto the heat-insulating layer and then covered finishing paint or plaster.
Technologies for vestibule
The attached vestibule can also be made using technology winter garden: frame made of aluminum or plastic profile with double glazing. The main thing is to ensure reliable connection of the profile structure with the main wall.
For this they arrange expansion joint: leave a gap 20-50 mm thick, fill it with fibrous insulation (tow or mineral wool, but not polyurethane foam) and are protected with façade sealant or hydro insulating tape.
The same seam must be made at the junction of the cottage foundations and the entrance vestibule to avoid the appearance of cracks in the future. But the roof of the extension cannot be joined in this way. To cover an attached vestibule, it is better to perform an independent truss structure, and close the joint from above with a cornice strip.
Also in the vestibule you need special attention Make sure there are no cracks: around the perimeter of the doors, along the baseboards and in the corners. It is better to fill large holes with mineral wool, but you can also blow them out with polyurethane foam, and fill small cracks with tow, seal them with insulating tape, or simply “close” them with silicone sealant.
Doors for vestibule
Particular attention should be paid to doors. The outer one should be made of solid wood or metal frame With internal insulation.
Perfect as a second one balcony door with a double-sided handle, glazing and complete sealing of the opening due to two sealing contours.
You can put a simple one, even interior door made of wood or plastic, you just need to cover it around the perimeter with a rubber seal.
To heat or not to heat?
The question of the need and possibility of heating for the vestibule raises a lot of controversy. Some experts strongly recommend drawing a contour here common system heating to avoid the appearance of frost on the doors or ceiling of the room in winter. In addition, according to them, the vestibule can become so cold in cold weather that it ceases to act as a temperature buffer.
However, according to building regulations, heating appliances should not be placed in rooms that have external doors to avoid freezing of the coolant.
And most designers do not recommend connecting the vestibule to traditional systems heating: this leads to unnecessary, completely unnecessary energy costs. The very essence of the vestibule is to be a buffer, a mixing zone of cold and warm air.
Heating the vestibule
It is permissible to install two heating devices here. Firstly, it is a cable heated floor. It will not harm the main function of the vestibule, will provide a more comfortable change from street shoes to house slippers, and will speed up the melting of snow, which often accumulates on the soles.
Air will also benefit thermal curtain, that is, several fan heaters installed above the doorway, with a flat, clearly directed air flow.
It will be enough to install a curtain of low power (1.5-5 kW) so that a wall of warm air along the opening completely cuts off the cold air from the residential area. In this case, the vestibule will be used only for changing shoes and accumulating street dirt.
Even in the most inhospitable home front door It opens all the time, whether you come yourself or guests, the dog asks to go home, you go to work in the garden or do something around the house. During the entire time the door is open, the air carries with it heat or cold from the street, and the feet of those who enter dust and dirt during the cold and damp season.
To solve such problems, a vestibule is built in the house.
Despite the seemingly obvious benefits of the vestibule, many perceive it small space at the entrance only as a small storage room and a place for shoes. The following opinion is also widespread - this mini-room is not needed, it eats up the living area without much benefit, and also requires additional expenses for arrangement. And many designers ignore the vestibule when planning the construction of cottages. This decision is justified as follows: it is enough to make a well-insulated (or better yet, double) door, and these short-term “ventilations” will not play a big role.
However, a vestibule is necessary and useful in every home. The only exception is buildings in the southern regions of the country, where the climate is milder.
It should be borne in mind that building codes do not directly oblige the installation of a vestibule in residential buildings.
But, according to the regulations, living rooms (bedrooms and children's rooms) must be separated from the street by at least three doors. This requirement is fully met by the vestibule, which is an intermediate, buffer space between the first and second (internal) entrance doors.
Due to their sequential opening, cold air remains between them and does not enter the living spaces. House heat is also retained; heating devices do not “warm” the street. And in the summer, the coolness in the house is preserved, which is especially important when using air conditioning. Thus, both in winter and summer, more efficient use of climate control equipment and savings in heating or cooling costs are ensured.
In addition, the vestibule blocks the formation of drafts and prevents the penetration of smoke and various odors into the home. Finally, here you can leave your shoes, and with them the dirt.
Features of the vestibule layout
There are no separate standards for the design of vestibules. However, there are rules that also regulate the arrangement of this space.
It is advisable to locate the entrance to the house, and along with it the vestibule, taking into account the prevailing wind directions in the area. A door on the leeward side will make the house a little warmer, because gusts of wind will not blow into it.
At the same time the vestibule can be built into the main volume building or attached to it in the form of a protruding part (risalit), where a staircase can also be placed. The entrance door must open outwards: this improves its resistance to burglary, increases the free space in the vestibule, and ensures safer evacuation in case of fire.
It is not necessary to organize natural lighting; artificial lighting is sufficient. But in interior door glazing can be provided: this will increase both illumination and improve visual perception space. The floor covering must be hard and non-slippery (including when wet). When installing dirt collection grates, they should be installed flush with the top floor covering, without a protruding threshold. This guarantees safer travel. Finally, the vestibule area is often lowered two or three steps below the level of the first floor, which further helps to retain the cold in this room.
Reliable insulation
The usefulness of the vestibule as a constructive temperature barrier for other rooms depends, first of all, on its thermal insulation qualities. The outer wall of the vestibule, being part of the external structures of the house, is an integral element of the thermal contour of the building, and its “pie” should help ensure and maintain the “thermos effect”.
The wall is made of the same material as in the rest of the house. But if additional insulation, for example, for a wall made of laminated timber or glued beams is usually not required, then in the vestibule area experts recommend installing a layer of thermal insulation from foam plastic, perlite or mineral wool slabs (basalt or glass wool - read more about seamless insulation). For the latter, film vapor barrier on the inside and waterproofing on the outside are required. From the outside, a reinforcing mesh is strengthened onto the heat-insulating layer and then covered with finishing paint or plaster.
The attached vestibule can also be made using winter garden technology: a frame made of aluminum or plastic profile with double glazing. The main thing is to ensure reliable connection of the profile structure with the main wall. To do this, make an expansion joint: leave a gap 20-50 mm thick, fill it with fibrous insulation (tow or mineral wool, but not polyurethane foam) and protect it with façade sealant or waterproofing tape. The same seam must be made at the junction of the cottage foundations and the entrance vestibule in order to avoid the appearance of cracks over time. But the roof of the extension cannot be joined in this way. To cover the attached vestibule, it is better to make an independent rafter structure and cover the joint from above with a cornice strip.
Also in the vestibule you need to pay special attention to see if there are any cracks: along the perimeter of the doors, along the baseboards and in the corners. It is better to fill large holes with mineral wool, but you can also blow them out with polyurethane foam, and fill small cracks with tow, seal them with insulating tape, or simply “close” them with silicone sealant.
Particular attention should be paid to doors.
The outer one should be made of solid wood or a metal frame with internal insulation. As a second option, a balcony door with a double-sided handle, glazing and complete sealing of the opening due to two sealing contours is perfect. You can also install a simple one, even made of wood or plastic, you just need to line it around the perimeter with a rubber seal.
Which vestibule to build – heated or not?
The question of the necessity and possibility of heating the vestibule raises a lot of controversy. Some experts strongly recommend installing the circuit of the general heating system here to avoid the appearance of frost on the doors or ceiling of the room in winter. In addition, according to them, the vestibule can become so cold in cold weather that it ceases to act as a temperature buffer.
However, according to building codes, heating devices should not be placed in rooms that have external doors to avoid freezing of the coolant. And most designers do not recommend connecting the vestibule to traditional heating systems: this leads to unnecessary, completely unnecessary energy costs. The very essence of the vestibule, why it is needed in the first place, is to be a buffer, a mixing zone of cold and warm air.
It is permissible to install two heating devices here. Firstly, it is a cable heated floor. It will not harm the main function of the vestibule, will provide a more comfortable change from street shoes to house slippers, and will speed up the melting of snow, which often accumulates on the soles. An air thermal curtain, that is, several fan heaters installed above the doorway, with a flat, clearly directed air flow, will also be beneficial. It will be enough to install a curtain of low power (i.5~5 kW) so that a wall of warm air along the opening completely cuts off the cold air from the residential area. In this case, the vestibule will be used only for changing shoes and accumulating street dirt.
Ergonomics of the territory
Tambours are quite often used as storage rooms and stored here old shoes, household equipment, small building materials. Thus, they clutter up the space and increase the area of surfaces that collect dust. In a small vestibule, it is advisable to arrange only shelves for shoes, as well as hooks and shelves for keys and other accessories. You can also hang a mirror on the wall. In the more spacious vestibule, after a walk, a baby stroller and sled are left.
If the depth allows, then you can equip a built-in closet (for example, a wardrobe) and store skis, balls and other sports equipment inside it. A mezzanine is made for the same purpose. And at the same time, due to it, the ceiling level is reduced so that there is no feeling of a well in the vestibule. Boxes from purchased equipment are stored in these same furniture elements, which should not be thrown away during the warranty period, etc. But here is the most frequently worn outerwear and hats should be stored in the wardrobe or hallway.
Convenient when side wall The spacious vestibule has a built-in door to the adjacent garage. Finally, internal and external doors are positioned both along the same axis, perpendicular to the facade, and at an angle of 90° to each other. The second option reduces airflow, but is less convenient as it makes it difficult to carry furniture.
Leave dirt in the extension
The entire history of a person’s movements during the day remains on the sole of the shoe: in the form of dust, small pebbles, snow, ice, etc. In a word, dirt. All of it remains with the shoes in the vestibule, but gradually accumulates and, sooner or later, ends up in the house. To prevent this, rag or rubberized mats are most often used, but they quickly become dirty, and the former also get wet. As a result, such coatings not only do not retain dirt, but also “return” it to the soles.
So it is better to use special dirt protection systems. For example, grilles made of aluminum or hard rubber, as well as combined products (they have metal strips alternating with rubber inserts). The cells in the grid should be square or diamond-shaped and of such a size that clods of dirt are collected and for women's heels They weren't a trap. The entire area of the vestibule should not be covered with grating. But to ensure complete collection of dirt, its width should be equal to the doorway (or better, 10-20 cm wider than it). The thickness of the grille is taken to be 1o-16 mm - this allows you to collect up to 7-10 kg of dirt and clean it less often. At the same time, dirt can be collected using a grate on the outside area near the door, then a canopy should be strengthened over the entrance to protect it from precipitation.
Read also:
Features of the final finishing of the vestibule
A vestibule is a room with constant changes in temperature and humidity. Materials that allow wet cleaning should be used for walls and ceilings. For example, you can use facade paint, plaster or plastic panels. But gypsum and other types of materials intended for indoor use are not suitable - coatings made from them may crack.
To visually increase space choose light colors finishing. Finally, a wear-resistant material is laid on the floor. ceramic tiles, natural or artificial stone or linoleum. Not only do they resist abrasion, but they are also easy to clean.
Location and layout of the vestibule (schematic drawing)
- Traditional small vestibule with wardrobe
- Tambour, which also serves as a hall with stairs
- An unusual planning solution allows for efficient use of space
- The entrance is recessed into the façade of the house, which provides even better protection from the cold. There is an exit from the vestibule to the garage
- The entrance to the house is on the same level as the facade. A door leads from the vestibule to the laundry room
- Part of the vestibule having complex shape, reserved for a small dressing room
Additionally to the article:
- Most often, the vestibule is built from the same material as the house.
- A translucent structure, for example made of glass, can also serve as a vestibule.
- In small old houses, for example in adobe, they often did summer kitchen- essentially the same vestibule, insulating the residential part of the house from the cold.
- The construction of a vestibule in the main volume of the house, with reasonable planning, can help in zoning the space
- If the vestibule is small, then the door should be installed so that it opens to the street.
- It is better to heat the vestibule autonomously - using a “warm floor” system or a fan heater installed above the external door.
- The vestibule, lowered 2-3 steps below the level of living quarters, better retains the cold.
- Fencing off a small hallway by turning it into a vestibule is easy and inexpensive, and the resulting buffer will allow you to save on heating costs. How to attach a mini-veranda to your houseNew... Household: tips, improvements and improvements Bucket...
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The presence of an entrance gateway not only helps reduce heat loss, but also contributes to better organization of the residents’ lives. Our review will explain to readers the need to build a vestibule and tell us what this extension should be like for correct execution their functions.
What problems does the vestibule solve?
It is impossible to briefly list all the diversity architectural solutions, which are adopted by modern developers. Shape of the house, height of the base, appearance facade and appearance entrance group They are very diverse, but most opinions agree on one thing - there is always a place for a vestibule.
The most obvious excuse for building an entrance gateway is to isolate the internal climate of the home from the street. If there is a vestibule, the living quarters will always be separated from the weather by at least one door; accordingly, heat loss due to air exchange will be limited to the volume of the entrance room. Equally important, the gateway completely eliminates the appearance of drafts that cause serious discomfort to residents located in the immediate vicinity of the entrance.
There are also more practical points. The category of people who settles in the private house, while observing the “apartment” way of life. On personal plot farming is almost always carried out, therefore there is home clothes and shoes. But snow, dirt and foreign odors have no place in the house; it is better to remove such things before entering the habitable area, for which the vestibule is best suited.
Actually, the presence of a vestibule in a private house is not strictly necessary; the absence of an entrance gateway can be compensated for by the layout of the hallway and additional dressing room. However, for greater objectivity, we list the secondary advantages that the vestibule provides:
- cool area for storing vegetables and other food products;
- a place where you can leave a stroller, bicycle or sled, and wash your dog’s paws after a walk;
- protecting the porch or stairs from ice;
- protection of the metal entrance door from freezing.
Foundation, porch and walls
Let us note right away that vestibules can be classified as warm and cold, and the presence of heating does not play a role in this classification. We are talking about the location of the vestibule relative to the building plan: it can be located inside the thermal contour of the house, or partially or completely outside it. The first case is quite trivial from the point of view of construction, because today even amateurs can perform division interior rooms partitions. Therefore, in the future we will focus on the construction of the attached vestibule.
Attaching a vestibule to a building is not an entirely simple task; the reason for this is the uneven settlement of the soil, which has already settled under the house, and will still settle within a few centimeters under the vestibule. Therefore, the foundation for the vestibule must be closed or, at least, connected by a lintel of a smaller cross-section, as well as separated from the base of the house by an XPS expansion joint. In general, for the construction of a vestibule, a shallowly buried one is recommended. strip foundation(MZLF) with an insulated blind area, the distance from the edge of which to the supporting edge of the foundation is obviously greater than the freezing depth in a particular region. Under the tape, be sure to place a backfill of sand and gravel, compacted in layers.
It is desirable that the blind area on the side of the front door has a raised area about 100-120 cm wide and about 80 cm deep. The height of the porch should be at least 100 cm lower than the tape; it is recommended to fill this part monolithically with the foundation, having previously tied the reinforcement of both parts among themselves. Construction of walls can begin 10-14 days after completion concrete works. The wall material can be absolutely anything - from cinder block to wooden frame and sandwich panels. However, it is recommended to start the construction of walls with a small parapet about 40 cm high, made of warm masonry material, for example aerated concrete block. Like the foundation, the walls of the extension must have a damping joint where they adjoin the house. Allowed mechanical link frame walls with capital enclosing structures.
Selecting the degree of glazing
For an attached vestibule, it is highly desirable to glaze about 20-25% of the wall area, but this is not always advisable. The benefits of glazing will be obvious only with sufficiently high-quality insolation, for example, if the vestibule is located on the south side of the house, on the southeast or southwest corners.
The degree of glazing has no restrictions only if heating is not planned in the vestibule. Currently, glazing systems based on aluminum and PVC are extremely popular. IN summer time the glazed vestibule will be like a steam room, where it is unbearably hot, but in winter there is high thermal conductivity glass walls will not allow you to retain heat.
On the other hand, the complete absence of windows in the vestibule is also not desirable. Even a minimum of natural light will make using the extension much more convenient. One will be enough narrow window about a meter high with one swing-out door. Naturally, the window should be placed on the most illuminated side of the vestibule.
An example of a vestibule made entirely of translucent materials. It protects from bad weather and looks very impressive, but is not able to retain heat.
Roof and connection to the facade
Regardless of the roof configuration, it is recommended to bring the walls into a common plane so that the ends form an almost finished mauerlat. It is enough to fix it on the walls using a massive beam of about 100x150 mm, after which you can begin installation rafter system, the type of which determines the shape of the vestibule roof.
The simplest and least expensive option would be pitched roof, based on several inclined trusses. It is desirable that the slope from the roof of the vestibule is not directed towards the entrance door, while the release of the sheathing will allow the formation of a sufficiently wide soffit that can replace the canopy over the porch. The main benefit of this design is the simplest method of pairing roofing With façade wall. It is enough to make a slot in the stone with a disk and insert the side of the Z-shaped strip into it, sealing the junction with silicone sealant.
A little more complex type The roof will be half-hipped or gable with a small pediment. In this case, the junction with the wall of the house will be formed by two inclined sections. These connections, as in the case of pitched roof, are made with Z-shaped strips that overlap the full width in the ridge area, overlapping each other. Under the overlap of the planks adjacent to the wall, you should liberally blow silicone or bitumen sealant, and then press the connection with hardware. An additional complexity when constructing such a roof appears when installing the ridge: in order to mask the overlap of the abutment strips, it may be necessary to manufacture a special cutting element - a ridge cap with an external flap.
Is insulation and heating necessary?
The main function of the vestibule is to form a protective zone in which the air is still, thereby reducing the outflow of heat from the front door. Thus, small extension It protects the door well from freezing, although the temperature inside it is only a few degrees higher than outside. However, the vestibule can also be used for more practical purposes.
A typical example is when it is necessary to dress a child: if you do this in a heated room, then at least one person will be dressed warmly and will definitely overheat. Many such actions are easier to carry out in a cool vestibule, which, even with minimal insulation, will not release the heat that penetrates from the house along with heated air through the open door.
It is not difficult to insulate a vestibule: for frame walls, insulation is provided in the cells between the posts; a stone extension can be safely insulated from the inside with materials with a reflective surface. In this case, there should be no main heating in the vestibule: removing even several sections of the radiator will significantly cool the coolant.
At all ideal option You can call the organization of a cold and warm zone in the vestibule along the floor. The latter is a short segment heating cable, laid in the floor in one of internal corners. In this place you can keep outdoor shoes, which, due to heating, will dry well overnight. And in the opposite corner a cold zone is formed for cooling cooked food and storing vegetables.
Installation of entrance and internal doors
It remains to figure out the last nuance - how to correctly place the internal and external doors. It all depends on whether any valuable property will be stored in the vestibule. If yes, then external door must be strong steel, that is, access to the house is fenced at the entrance to the vestibule itself. In this case, the front door is not subject to freezing and ice formation, but the inside door must be insulated.
If there is nothing valuable in the vestibule, then the main door can be placed inside, making access to the annex practically unlimited or with the installation of the simplest English lock. Please note that a distance of 2-2.5 steps must be maintained between two doors so that in cold weather they are guaranteed not to be open at the same time. IN optimal option both doors should open into the vestibule.