The market is literally crowded various types facing products. And if during the construction of administrative and industrial buildings plaster mixes are used extremely rarely for facade decoration, then in the private sector interest in them is recent times only grows. Let's figure out what caused it.
Benefits of plaster finish
Stop at listing all the advantages of this variety facing materials doesn't make sense. All products for exterior finish buildings, meets certain requirements, and they are well known - moisture resistance, durability, mechanical strength and a number of others. What is attractive facade plaster?
1. Ease of technological operations.
Facade decoration, regardless of architectural features buildings, you can produce yourself, without paying for the work of hired craftsmen. Taking into account the fact that household tool, which is in any home, is enough, there is no need to rent (or buy) something else. Therefore, this design method is more than economical.
2. Plaster allows the wall material to "breathe".
This significantly affects both the period of its suitability (including insulation), and the microclimate inside the house. To achieve this when using other types of cladding, it is necessary to mount a ventilated structure. And this requires additional financial investments, time and, importantly, experience. As the practice of decorating the facades of houses shows, without the skills to perfectly align the supporting frame with their own hands, not everyone succeeds. And the quality of the exterior finish directly depends on this.
3. High adhesion.
The plaster is securely fastened to any facade material, which greatly simplifies the stage of its initial preparation for facing.
4. Good maintainability.
Mostly Decoration Materials receive point damage, especially if the house is next to the roadway. Almost any modern cladding- piece products, which, in principle, are easy to replace by yourself. But in reality, it turns out that this is easy only in words, since many types of products for decorating house facades have some limitations in this regard. For example, do-it-yourself dismantling / installation of PVC siding great work will not, but only at positive temperatures, since it breaks in the cold. It turns out that it will not be possible to bring the house into proper condition until spring. You can repair the facade finished with plaster at any time.
5. Big choice options.
The range of finishing compositions is significant. Even the most popular decorative plasters on sale are several varieties - bark beetle, mosaic and pebble texture. Therefore, you can finish the facade in any style. And if we take into account the spread in prices for products, then such a design of buildings is available to the widest segments of the population, regardless of the level of prosperity.
Technology features
It is advisable to plan the work, referring to the weather forecast. In any plaster composition there is water. The quality of finishing the walls of the house largely depends on the uniformity of drying of each applied layer. That's why the best conditions considered: no wind, normal humidity (within 55-65%) and positive temperature from 5 to 25 °C. In others, there is a risk of cracks appearing on the plaster grid due to intensive evaporation of moisture or, conversely, its crystallization.
For external design facades, various compositions are used. In the private sector residential buildings, as a rule, get off with decorative plasters. Consider the whole range of activities using bark beetle products.
1. Facade preparation.
- Dismantling of the old cladding.
- Thorough cleaning.
- Elimination of defects (sinks, cracks, etc.).
- Surface leveling. What for? This is not done for certain varieties of plasters, since they themselves, by definition, serve to eliminate the curvature of the base. But since the composition of the bark beetle is quite expensive, such preliminary preparation will reduce its consumption, thereby reducing total cost decoration facade of a private house.
2. Ground treatment.
This technological operation pursues several goals.
- Firstly, the dust fractions remaining on the facade of the house will be securely “nailed”, which means that the glue for fixing the insulation will not clump.
- Secondly, the quality of the bond between the bark beetle and the base material will increase.
- Thirdly, the plaster used for leveling will not crumble.
3. Installation of the profile strip.
The most effective home insulation is exterior finish. Since any plaster is an elastic composition, a rigid material, Penoplex, is chosen as a heater. To determine the lower level of fastening of its plates, the so-called starting rail is set. It also serves as a kind of channel for partial removal of the resulting condensate from the facade.
4. Fastening insulation.
The plates are fixed on the facade with a special adhesive. The back side is coated various schemes(depending on the dimensions of the Penoplex) - along the perimeter, crosswise, dotted over the entire area. The wall is also treated with an adhesive.
What to consider:
- Glue - only frost-resistant, and for working with foam plastics.
- The plates of each level are mounted with an offset relative to the lower one, so that a solid vertical seam does not form.
- After the final drying of the glue (the time depends on the composition and temperature of the air), the insulation is additionally fixed with the help of special / dowels (available for sale).
5. Reinforcement.
It allows you to further increase the strength of the exterior finish. The technique is simple - coating the insulation with glue (about 1.5 mm thick) - indenting the mesh - applying another layer of adhesive.
- From the point of view of durability, it should be fixed plastic mesh and not metal. The latter, even galvanized, corrodes over time, and rust spots will appear on the bark beetle.
- The optimal mesh density for plaster is in the range of 140-160 g / m 2.
- After the glue has completely hardened, the facade is again finished with primer.
6. Applying plaster.
Kneading bark beetle is better to do mechanically- slow-speed electric / drill + nozzle. The cost of the latter is about 180 rubles, although the simplest "butterfly" is easy to make on your own from wire. The technology for preparing the solution is specified by the manufacturer, so you should be guided by the requirements of the instructions attached to the plaster.
- To avoid noticeable joints of layers, it is necessary to finish immediately over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe wall. With this calculation, the composition is prepared (by volume).
- The first layer is the so-called spraying layer. It serves as the basis for the application of Bark beetle, and for this purpose can be used ordinary plaster(cement + sand).
The finish is applied thinly, smeared with effort, until small scratches appear. After that, the facade is smoothed out. The movements are light, without pressure, circular. The task is to achieve uniformity of the layer over the entire area. After that, you need to wait some time (15 minutes), since the slightly dried plaster will not stick to the grater.
The final processing is already done with a little pressure, and at this stage it is possible to form the required pattern on the facade. Its complexity, originality depend entirely on the skills of the master. And the bark beetle in this regard provides great opportunities for finishing.
When smoothing the surface, the main thing is not to overdo it. Excessive movements lead to a "washout" of the relief.
Plastering walls is painstaking and hard work. To accomplish this, it is usually used special formulations, most often on a plaster basis. In addition, for a high-quality result, it is very important to observe correct sequence process: it is carried out in several stages.
Plastering walls is a matter that requires special knowledge, skills and abilities from the performer. Properly executed alignment of the walls will facilitate the process of gluing and significantly improve the appearance of the room. Such work can be done independently, but more often it is still trusted by the masters. In any case, when carrying out this procedure, you will have to take into account some nuances.
To get a high-quality result (perfectly smooth walls), you need 4 components of success:
- experienced master plasterer;
- high-quality plaster mixture (you need to carefully read its composition and manufacturer);
- correct preparation of the solution;
- proper storage conditions for the plaster mixture before starting work (no moisture ingress is allowed).
In addition, you need to clearly understand the purpose for which the walls of this room are finished with plaster. Plastering walls for wallpaper is a slightly different situation than plastering bathroom walls for tiles. AT this case walls need to be properly plastered gypsum plaster so that the main decor (tile or wallpaper) holds.
The better to plaster the walls depends on the wallet of the owner of the house, as well as on the characteristics of the room in which repairs are required. In addition, it is important to understand why plaster walls - for wallpaper, tiles or just painting.
What plaster is better to use? First, you need to know that the plaster is dry or wet. Secondly, both dry and wet plaster exist three types:
- ordinary (actual composition for leveling walls);
- decorative (color, terrasite or stone);
- special.
Most cheap option- lime plaster. But this option, unfortunately, is short-lived and is only suitable for plastering walls inside the building. outer part plaster with a different composition. In addition, lime is categorically not suitable for the bathroom. The fact is that lime is afraid of moisture.
The main advantages of gypsum plasters are good sound and heat insulation. It is a ductile material that rarely cracks. Such plaster quickly dries and hardens. A few hours are enough for this.
Unfortunately, such mixtures are not sufficiently resistant to moisture and mechanical damage. Before plastering the walls with gypsum plaster, you need to study all the features of the room. At the same time, you can finish the walls with Rotband (popular gypsum plaster) even in the bathroom.
Cement is universal option for plastering walls both inside and out. The main advantages of the material are resistance to moisture and drops. temperature regime. They can also be used for plastering bathroom walls before laying tiles. It is recommended to choose it if the owners do not know which dry or wet plaster is better to finish the interior or exterior walls.
Also, many users are interested in how quickly the applied plaster dries. From this point of view, cement and gypsum mixes. In addition, on a bag or bucket with a mixture, you need to read at what temperature the mixture dries the fastest.
Varieties of dry plaster
Dry plaster may be:
- simple;
- improved;
- high quality.
The quality of dry plaster is determined by differences. Normal - with drops no more than 3 mm, improved - with drops no more than 2 mm. In high quality, differences of a maximum of 1 mm are allowed.
Simple usually finish warehouses, basements and other premises for household purposes, the second is used in public institutions- hospitals and schools. But high-quality trim the walls of residential buildings.
To know how to plaster walls with your own hands, you can read a lot of tips on the Internet.
However, it all comes down to two options: plastering on beacons and without beacons. Everyone can learn how to plaster walls, although it will be more difficult for a beginner than for a professional plasterer.
Deciding how and with what to plaster the walls in the bathroom under the tiles or walls living rooms before wallpapering, it is important to correctly assess the quality of the existing surface.
To plaster the walls yourself, you will need to apply the solution in three layers. The resulting excess is removed with a trapezoidal spatula. You will have to buy it before you plaster walls from any material with your own hands.
In any case, the solution must be applied very carefully.
Plastering in a plane (using a rule) is a good option if the walls are relatively flat. If there are serious irregularities on the walls, the performer has no other choice but to plaster the walls on the lighthouses. Thanks to beacon profiles, irregularities are eliminated with an accuracy of 1 mm/m2.
Usually, metal beacons are used for this, although artificial plaster beacons can also be created. In the second case, you can save the plaster mixture (the layer with iron beacons will be at least 6 mm).
Before plastering aerated concrete walls, you need to make sure that the plaster mixture is ideal for them. This material is environmentally friendly, it lets in oxygen and takes it out of the room. carbon dioxide Therefore, the choice of plaster should be taken responsibly.
The technologies of how to plaster walls made of foam block, foam concrete, as well as how to plaster concrete walls differ little from each other. It is important to choose only the right mixture here. The technology is similar to how to plaster wooden walls.
How to plaster brick walls depends on the location of the surface being trimmed. Concrete and other moisture-resistant products are suitable from the outside, and it is also permissible to plaster brick walls inside the house with gypsum mixtures.
How to plaster walls cement-sand mortar, is similar to how you work with any other wall finish. The main thing is to add required amount water.
How to plaster walls with beacons?
Many users are looking for tips on how to plaster walls without beacons. Here it is necessary to determine the thickness of the layer and the quality of the surface by eye. This method is suitable for relatively flat surfaces. Thus, small imperfections are smoothed out.
Plastered walls are already trimmed with selected paint, wallpaper or tiles - it depends on the purpose of the room and the desire of the owner.
Mother of two children. I'm leading household for more than 7 years - this is my main job. I like to experiment, I constantly try various means, methods, techniques that can make our life easier, more modern, richer. I love my family.
Now external plastering of walls is one of the most commonly used types of home decoration. Moisture, penetrating into the plastered walls, damages them and significantly worsens the thermal insulation. At the same time, the outer decorative trim can not only give the building a neat appearance, but also protect it bearing walls from destruction.
Advantages of plaster finish
In addition to ennoblement appearance, outdoor plaster handmade has a lot of other advantages:
- prevents the penetration of moisture inside, without retaining air;
- special components that make up the plaster mixture help to improve heat and sound insulation;
- a variety of textures for finishing houses on the outside allows you to give any structure to the outer layer of facade plaster, as well as in the future to change not only the color, but also the texture itself.
What surfaces are suitable for plastering
The quality of work and the reliability of the coating directly depend on what material the facade of the house is made of. For applying plaster with your own hands are well suited:
- wood;
- stone;
- reinforced concrete slabs;
- monolithic concrete.
The sequence of work
The process of such wall decoration from the outside can be divided into 4 stages:
- Selection of the necessary plaster mixture.
- Surface preparation.
- Installation of special beacons.
- Plastering of the surface of the facade.
External plaster - its types
Most often, do-it-yourself external facade plastering of walls is performed using a special decorative composition. The mixture can be applied on the main layer or on the installed insulation. It can also be mixed with a variety of artificial or natural pigments, to achieve the desired color or volumetric components in order to create a texture during application to the treated surface.
The color scheme of the exterior plaster
Before you determine which mixture is better to use in your work, you should know at least the basic physical properties certain types of solutions. Usually, some types of decorative mixtures are used during construction.
They are conditionally divided into:
- silicate;
- silicone;
- polymeric;
- mineral;
- and homemade mixes.
Differences in decorative mixtures
Silicate solutions are made liquid, that is, they can be used immediately after opening the container. But their main disadvantage is small selection colors. In addition, such mixtures must be consumed immediately, otherwise they will dry out quickly. Such facade plaster guarantees excellent waterproofing and is not afraid of mechanical damage.
Do-it-yourself plastering outside the walls of the house, subjected to stable negative influence high temperatures and solar radiation, most often done polymer blends. Synthetic resins can also be included in their composition: acrylic-styrene, polyvinyl-acetate, etc. These mixtures bond well with almost any kind of bases.
Like polymeric, silicone mixtures can withstand the harmful effects of solar radiation and various mechanical factors for a long time. They have a long service life and storage, and are also able to provide good waterproofing.
house plaster
For the manufacture of mineral mixtures dry cement is used. To get started, it is enough to dilute this mixture with water to the desired consistency. Mineral-based plasters are non-flammable and allow the wall to breathe. However, their main drawback is poor adhesion, which requires additional preparation of the base. The main advantage is its self-preparation.
Preparations for work
In order to properly prepare the surface of the walls for applying the plaster mixture, it is necessary:
- Remove old, weakly adhering plaster, if present.
If possible, remove the sagging and bumps. Being too lazy, you will be faced with the forced application of thick layers of plaster, which will cause waste of materials, effort and time during the work.
- Remove any contaminants from the surface.
- If you are dealing with brick wall at home, it is worth embroidering the seams, that is, expanding and deepening the joints. Thanks to this, the applied facade plaster will “cling” to the base of the wall more firmly. It happens that a new brick laying is carried out in advance "into the wasteland", which can significantly reduce the time of preparation for the main work. After grouting, the brick walls must be primed and allowed to dry completely. And only then you can start plastering.
If blocks larger than standard bricks were used in the construction of walls, then there is no need for jointing. There will be much less seams here and places for a hook too.
- If the wall of the house was erected using the "rough" masonry method or smooth reinforced concrete slabs, then proceed as before. On the surface of such a wall, you can immediately stuff a special plaster mesh. The wall must be pre-treated with a deeply penetrating primer.
Walls made of concrete or aerated concrete require a different attitude. Before proceeding with the finishing process, you need to figure out how to plaster them correctly. The selected facade plaster must be weaker in strength than the base. This will help to avoid the appearance of layer tension at the joints. The mixture should allow the wall to breathe, because concrete can accumulate and release moisture. The ability of the solution to penetrate steam will protect against condensation and the appearance of fungi.
Fungus on the plaster surface
Decorative facade plaster is applied only on the main layer of the mixture, the thickness of which is from 1 to 5 cm. Before this, the base must be primed or finished with a special mounting grid installed on liquid base. If work is carried out at high temperatures, then the layer must be periodically sprayed with water for uniform drying. Otherwise, the outer layer dries earlier than the inner one. This will inevitably lead to cracks.
Installation of special beacons
Plaster beacons - rails fixed to the wall from metal profile. Moving along them, the spout of the trapezoid rule turns the freshly applied solution into a perfectly flat plane. To achieve this result, you need to make them properly installed.
How to do it right:
- The prepared wall is hung with a load to determine its vertical deviation from the level. If the tops “sink”, then the vertical deviation is greater at the top than at the bottom. Therefore, during the installation of beacons, you will have to add a solution under them. And vice versa.
- Take the beacon and shorten as needed. The thickness of metal beacons is 6 or 10 mm, and the length is 3 or 4 meters. Please note that 6 mm beacons are more flexible. In view of this, it is more reasonable to use 10 mm. However, because of this, the thickness of the plaster layer will increase by 4 mm.
- Smear the wall approximately 20 - 30 cm from the corner with one line in the form of dots. Leave approximately 50 cm between the beacons. The mixture should be thick. Piglets should be 5-15 cm in diameter, and the height will depend on the thickness of the future facade plaster. The height is greater, the thicker the layer. Also don't forget to consider where the biggest shift from the level is.
- Attach the beacon and lightly press it into the mixture. Then attach a rule with a built-in level to it and, pressing or pulling the beacon, reach the desired wall vertical. We immediately clean the lighthouse from sagging, and smooth out the protruding places with a spatula.
- When the solution adheres, carefully seal the voids that remain under the beacon. Do the same in reverse.
- Try not to have more than 1.7-1.8 m between adjacent beacons. It is more convenient to handle the 2-meter trapezoid rule during leveling work.
If the size of the wall exceeds 2 meters, then add guides between the beacons placed at the corners.
How to properly apply plaster
Plaster work is also divided into 3 main stages.
splashing
The cement mortar is diluted to the state of rare sour cream. If you are using dry or ready mixes for outdoor use, then everything must be done following the manufacturer's instructions.
Then, with a ladle, we spray the solution on the entire wall. The mixture should not splash, but pounce, and with reasonable diligence. The more “roughness” comes out, the better. We are waiting for it to dry.
Application of the main layer
Dilute the solution to a state of thick sour cream and sprinkle between two lighthouses on an area equal to 40-60 cm in height. The largest total thickness of all layers of plaster should be no more than 5 cm. Having attached a trapezoid rule to the beacons with a narrow side, begin to move it from side to side. Try to ensure that the edges of the rule do not leave the lighthouses, while at the same time slowly moving up.
So all the excess will be cut off and the plaster of the outer walls will become as flat as possible. If in some places the solution was put a little less than necessary, then you need to throw it in and perform all the steps again.
Grouting plaster
If you used cement plaster, then after the mixture has dried, grouting is performed. To do this, use a wooden or plastic grater. The purpose of the process is to prevent the appearance of cracks, as well as to smooth out the smallest irregularities and close up minor shells remaining after the rule.
Grouting is carried out in a circular motion in a spiral. From a larger circle to a small one, we “stretch” the solution to make a tubercle. And in reverse order- level it completely.
The technology of plastering the facade from the outside with your own hands is not so complicated as it might seem at first. With simple tools, time and desire, all these types of work are quite doable without outside help.
Having started a major overhaul in an apartment or house, you always have to face the need complete removal plaster from the walls. The reason is that the average service life of plaster before its complete destruction due to changes in properties is 25 years. And if you remember when the first layer was applied to the walls in our Soviet houses, it becomes obvious that it makes no sense to leave it further. The situation with new buildings is not much better. Bare concrete walls are quite a familiar environment that welcomes new settlers. And now a full-scale repair is unfolding, one of the priority stages of work in which is the plastering of the walls. This old time-tested method is still the most popular, as it allows you to perform any fine finish in the future and change it without structural changes. In this case, the wall is monolithic. Within the framework of this article, we will talk about the better to plaster walls, what is the technology for plastering walls without beacons and with beacons.
How to plaster walls
The composition of the mortar for wall plastering is always selected based on the material of the walls and whether the plaster is made inside or outside.
Ordinary brick walls plastered with cement-based mortars, sometimes lime can be added if the humidity in the room is too high, or when carrying out outdoor work. The maximum layer of plaster on brick walls should be 30 mm. If the thickness is more than 20 mm, it will be necessary to reinforce the plaster with a mesh so that it does not fall off.
For the manufacture of cement mortar you will need 1 part cement and 2 - 5 parts sand. They are mixed with each other, then water is gradually added, and the solution is kneaded to the consistency of the dough.
For cement-lime mortar you will need 1 part of cement, 6 - 8 parts of sand, 1 - 3 parts of lime paste. Cement and sand are mixed together, then milk of lime is added and also mixed. If the dough is too thick, add a little water and mix again.
Walls out facing brick It is better to entrust the plastering to professionals. Due to the smooth polished surface of the brick, the plaster peels off the walls, sometimes in pieces, and sometimes along with the reinforcing mesh. Therefore, you will need to use special primers and fittings, as well as perform time-consuming work.
Smooth concrete wall plastered cement composition with the addition of gypsum and particles of quartz. In this case, quartz will give the wall a roughness, which is required for better adhesion of the solution to the surface.
For lime-gypsum mortar you will need 1 part of gypsum, 3 - 4 parts of lime. Water is poured into the container, gypsum is poured in a thin layer and quickly kneaded. The mass should not be very thick. Lime mortar is added and kneaded.
Rough concrete wall does not require a special primer with quartz, it is enough to use Betonokontakt, mortars can be used both cement and gypsum.
Foam concrete walls before plastering, they are treated with a deep penetration primer, plastered gypsum mortars, but there are no contraindications against cement.
To the choice plaster mortar must be taken seriously. From right choice will depend on the durability of the coating. If in doubt, consult a specialist in a hardware store. Now for sale a large number of ready-made plaster mixtures, which are enough to fill with water and stir. One of the most common in this moment is a mixture of "Rotband".
wall plaster technology
Works related to plastering are dusty, dirty, require care and manual dexterity. That is why they are most often referred to construction companies. The cost of wall plastering by construction teams to order depends on whether it is required to be done according to the lighthouses, and on the shape of the wall. Plastering a curved surface will cost twice as much - about 15 USD. for 1 m2. Although in different companies prices can vary several times, and this is only for work, without taking into account the cost of materials. But do not despair, do-it-yourself wall plastering is also possible. The performer will need patience and the implementation of all recommendations and technology.
Preparatory work before plastering
First of all, we remove all the old finishing materials and plaster, if they were, we clean them from sagging. Leaving bare walls.
If the wall is brick, then to improve the adhesion of the plaster mixture to the wall, we increase the recesses in the seams between the bricks up to 1 cm.
If the wall is concrete and smooth, you have to make notches on it. We use a gear and a hammer. The notches should be 15 mm long and 3 mm deep. We calculate so that for every 1 m2 of the wall surface there are about 250 notches.
If the wall is wooden, we mount the shingle. You can use thin slats or plywood scraps, it is better to stuff them diagonally. You should get a crate that will hold the plaster and serve as beacons. It is allowed to use chain-link mesh instead of wooden shingles. It is not fixed directly to the wall, but on plywood strips - linings so that the distance between the wall and the mesh is at least 3 mm.
We clean the walls and the room as a whole from dust and dirt.
Brick and wooden walls are wetted with water. For these purposes, it is convenient to use a garden sprayer, but you can limit yourself to a broom.
We treat concrete walls with a special primer "Betonokontakt". For walls made of more porous material: foam concrete, aerated concrete or silicate brick, we use a deep penetration primer. If the base is highly absorbent, we process it twice. All these manipulations are necessary in order to improve the adhesion of the wall surface with the plaster mortar.
We begin further work only after the primer has completely dried.
AT without fail we follow what is written in the instructions for the plaster mixture, if we do not prepare a standard mixture from individual components. For example, consider the preparation of the most common Rotband plaster. A bag of mixture of 30 kg, water should be needed 17 - 18 liters.
Pour water into the container, then add a little mixture, 6 - 7 trowels. Mix thoroughly. Then pour the whole bag into a container and knead with a drill with a mixing nozzle. Our task is to make sure that there are no lumps. Let the mixture brew for 5 minutes, then continue to knead.
On the last step kneading, you can still add plaster or water to the container. You can't do this later.
Important! The prepared solution must be used within 20-30 minutes. If you're a beginner and can't get the job done that quickly, it's best to mix a half bag of mix first.
We start applying plaster to the wall. The technology involves the application of three layers one after another with interruptions.
Application of plaster mortar: spray layer
For the first layer, called "spray", the solution should have a creamy consistency, more liquid than subsequent layers.
"Spatter" layer for brick and stone walls- 4 - 5 mm, and for wooden - 10 mm.
Using a trowel, we collect a portion of the solution into the falcon. We collect a solution from it with a plaster spatula and throw it with force on the wall in random order. The throwing motion should be done with the hand only, not with the whole arm. We make the swing not too large so that the solution does not splatter. This method of application is preferable, since under the pressure of the impact of the solution on the wall, its particles penetrate into the voids.
The second method of application is spreading. The falcon is brought to the wall, the solution is taken with a plaster spatula and smeared on the wall. This method is less preferred.
After the mortar has been evenly spread over the entire surface of the wall, there is no need to level it. It is enough just to remove too prominent areas.
Important! All tools after each plastered area must be thoroughly washed.
Machine plaster walls: photo - example
Plaster application: "primer" layer
For the second layer called "soil" you will need a pasty solution. But you can start applying it only after the “splash” has completely dried. We check the readiness in this way: we press with a finger, if it does not slip, then the layer is dry.
We throw the solution on the wall, trying to close up all the empty areas. Then we level using the rule from the bottom up. Remove the excess into a container with the mixture. If empty areas are found during the leveling process, fill them with mortar and level them again with the rule.
Then we level it with a trowel, while driving in a horizontal and vertical direction.
Important! At all stages of applying the plaster mixture, we control the evenness of the surface using the rule.
The maximum thickness of the second layer can be 20 mm - for wooden walls.
We are waiting for the complete drying of the second layer of plaster.
Application of plaster mortar: “covering” layer
For the third layer called "covering" you will need again a solution of sour cream consistency. It is necessary for fine finish to lubricate all the flaws of the "soil".
The thickness of this layer can be a maximum of 2 mm. To prepare the solution, the components are sieved through a fine sieve to prevent the appearance of lumps.
Wet the surface of the second layer with water. Apply a thin layer of mortar with a trowel. We level the trowel by making circular movements or along a wavy path.
Without waiting for the last layer of plaster to dry, we perform grouting.
Grouting plaster
Around:
We press the wooden trowel tightly against the wall and make circular movements counterclockwise. Cut off with a sharp edge extra plaster, protrusions and irregularities. If the “covering” has had time to harden, first we moisten it with water, then we start grouting.
We press the grater against the wall and make sharp straight movements - swings. This is necessary to remove traces of circular movements. Further on the surface, you can walk with a grater, upholstered with felt or felt, to further improve its quality.
Lighthouse wall plastering
Beacons for plaster are used if the walls have significant flaws, bumps and bulges. In order for the surface to be smooth in horizontal and vertical plane, it is necessary to control the layer of plaster over the entire area of the wall. That's what beacons are for.
The technology of plastering walls on lighthouses is quite difficult to describe in words. It is better to see once than to read a hundred times. Therefore, we suggest watching the video.
Lighthouse plaster walls: video - an example.
For wooden walls, wooden shingles are used as beacons.
For walls that easily fit fasteners, metal guides are used.
For more strong walls beacons are used from mortar or gypsum.
Stages of work:
- Markup. At a distance of 15 - 20 cm from perpendicular wall at the top we drive in a nail or screw in a self-tapping screw. We hang a load on a rope on it. This will be our plumb line. At the bottom of the wall, we also screw in the self-tapping screw at the required level.
- Between the upper and lower screws we throw heaps of mortar, 3 pieces are enough.
- We install an aluminum beacon on our heaps of mortar and self-tapping screws. We press it into the solution so that it rests on the screws. Constantly control the evenness of its location.
- We install the second lighthouse near the opposite edge of the wall. The third is between them. If the wall is long, then we install more beacons, the distance between them should be about 1 m. The installation technology is the same, only now we check the evenness of the location not only in planes, but also relative to each other.
- On both sides, along the edges, we cover the beacons with a solution and wait until it hardens.
- We apply the plaster mortar according to the technology described above. Last layer before leveling, it should protrude 2 - 3 mm beyond the edges of the beacons.
- Leveling the solution is performed using the rule. We apply it below near the floor to the wall, leaning on the beacons, we stretch it up, removing the excess solution. From the rule, the excess is removed back into the container with the solution.
- We continue to throw the solution if we see voids. Leveling again. When the wall is perfectly flat, we stop work and wait for it to dry (10 - 12 days).
In construction organizations, for such wall plastering, the price ranges from $6. up to 10 c.u. for 1 m2.
Finally, I would like to say plastering work is a complex and responsible business. To make the surface flawless, you will have to purchase the entire necessary inventory and tools, plaster mix in the right amount and means for priming walls. It's not worth saving. Well, be patient, and the skill will appear in the process.
Do-it-yourself wall plastering: video - instructions
Sooner or later, any householder is faced with the problem of plastering walls. Whether it's an old apartment, not seen for a long time overhaul either large, or newly built Vacation home. In any case, before gluing wallpaper or laying tiles, you must perform preliminary training surfaces.
Plastering is a very time-consuming process and requires the use of special knowledge. Of course, it is better to turn to professionals for help, but this can cost you a pretty penny. But what to do if you don’t have this very penny? You can learn this. Below in detailed guide we will tell you about the stages of work, how to prepare the surface and how to finish.
How to plaster walls
The composition for plaster is determined by the material wall covering, as well as the location of the prepared surface (indoors or outdoors).
The choice of the type of solution must be approached with all responsibility, because the further service life of the coating depends on it. If you have any doubts, please contact hardware store for professional advice.
In addition to a home-made mortar, you can use ready-made plaster mixtures, which are presented in a large assortment on the construction market. One of the most popular and common mixtures today is Rotband.
Video: what to choose for wall decoration in the bathroom
Surface pre-priming
If the wall has a highly absorbent base - silicate brick or aerated concrete, a deeply penetrating primer is used (Tifengrunt or its analogues). In addition to the fact that such a primer significantly improves the adhesion of the solution to the base, it also further strengthens the wall. Before starting work, the primer must be thoroughly mixed. Highly absorbent surfaces are treated twice.
For priming smooth surfaces that do not absorb moisture, a special mixture is used - "Betonokontakt". Before applying the primer, it is necessary to clean the wall surface from dirt and dust, remove exfoliating old plaster spatula or brush. "Betonokontakt" before use, mix thoroughly and dilute with water (no more than 1 hour per 2 hours of the mixture), if necessary. Plastering of the surface should be started only after the complete drying of the primer layer.
Video: is it necessary to prime the walls before plastering
Surface preparation
First you need to remove all old finish and plaster, if any, completely clean the wall from sagging, dust and dirt.
On the wooden base a shingle is mounted, which can be made from plywood scraps or thin slats. It is recommended to fill the material diagonally. You get a crate that will serve as beacons and keep the plaster on the wall surface. Instead of wooden slats, the use of chain-link mesh is allowed. Wire reinforcement is attached to plywood strips so that the distance between the mesh and the wall surface is at least 3 mm.
On a concrete smooth wall, with a hammer and a gear, notches are made with a depth of 3 mm and a length of 15 mm. The number of notches depends on the area and is calculated using the formula 250*m2.
Brick wall. To improve the adhesion of the mortar to the wall surface, recesses up to 1 cm are made between the bricks.
Wooden and brick surfaces should be moistened with water before applying the plaster, using a garden sprayer or an ordinary broom. Concrete walls are treated with a special soil mixture - "Betonokontakt". For a porous wall surface (silicate brick, aerated concrete, foam concrete), a deeply penetrating primer is used. A highly absorbent base is treated twice. After the primer has completely dried, you can proceed directly to plastering the walls.
Video: how to prepare a wall for decoration
Stages of work
The plaster is applied to the walls in several layers.
"Splatter"
The prepared solution should have a consistency similar to sour cream. The thickness of the first layer for wooden surfaces- 10 mm, for stone and brick - 4-5 mm.
There are two ways to apply the solution:
"Priming"
The solution should be pasty consistency. First, the readiness of the previously applied “spray” is checked (if the surface does not sag when pressed with a finger, the “spray” is dry) and only after the first layer has completely dried, the second is applied. Throwing the solution on the wall, you must try to close up all the voids. We level the surface using the rule from the bottom up, filling in the remaining empty areas along the way. And at the last stage, to achieve the effect flat wall, we use a trowel, passing it along the surface in a vertical and horizontal direction. For wooden walls, the thickness of the second layer should not exceed 20 mm. Leave until completely dry.
This is the so-called finishing layer of plaster, designed to hide all the flaws of the "soil". A creamy consistency solution is prepared. All components included in it are pre-sifted through a sieve in order to prevent the appearance of lumps. The surface of the "soil" is wetted with water and the solution is applied in a thin layer with a trowel. Then with a trowel, performing wave-like or circular movements, we level the surface. It is not necessary to wait for the complete drying of this layer of plaster. Let's start grouting.
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Grouting plaster
Around. We press the wooden trowel tightly against the wall and counterclockwise in a circular motion, we begin the grout. The sharp edge of the tool at the same time cuts off all the bumps and protrusions. If the “covering” layer has already hardened, moisten it with water.
Overclocking. To remove traces of circular movements, you need to press the grater against the wall and make a few sharp strokes. To achieve the best result, you can walk on the surface with a float, upholstered with felt or felt.
So we found out that self plastering walls is a realistic task and, subject to all the rules and regulations, you will be able to cope with it without involving unauthorized persons.
