Has the day come when it's time to finally throw away the old ski and take all the cans from your balcony to the garage? Your head is full of ideas, and if not, then the global web will help you. You are ready to realize all the brightest and crazy desires on the vacated piece of living space. There is one small problem left. These are harsh conditions that attack your hard-earned square meters.
Therefore, the primary task that must be solved before letting the fantasy unfold is to keep warm. In order to minimize the cost of repairs, let's figure it out how to insulate a balcony from the inside with your own hands.
If a decision is made to attach the area of the balcony to the living area of the apartment, it is necessary to carry out work on its insulation. So that after the repair there are no unforeseen problems, the work must be carried out in compliance with the established norms, rules and approvals.
Serious reconstruction will require permission from local executive authorities, architecture and the Ministry of Emergency Situations. Ignore this paragraph is not worth it, so as not to be punished for violating the housing code. In addition, coordination will help to avoid certain errors when changing structural elements. Experienced specialists will immediately notice inconsistencies in the project. Correcting errors at the design stage will avoid the cost of correcting errors after repair.
The order of work and their volume depend on what tasks the reconstructed balcony will perform:
- It will continue to be a place to relax in the warm season, and insulation is carried out to protect against wind, dust and precipitation. This is a less expensive method and easier to implement.
- It will be attached to the area of the apartment as a full-fledged living space used all year round. Here, the scope of work increases significantly, since it will be necessary to provide for heating, steam and waterproofing, and change the power supply system.
Attention! Balcony with sliding windows it is almost pointless to insulate, since the windows themselves will let the cold through.
How to insulate a balcony from the inside with your own hands
First of all, it is necessary to take measurements and determine the quantity of materials, their composition and quality. Manufacturers offer a wide range of materials for insulation, insulation and finishing for every taste and material wealth. Of course, you shouldn't skimp on quality. It is necessary to take care of the environmental friendliness and fire safety of housing.
A balcony is a remote structure located outside the building, its three sides and the ceiling require insulation, even if the neighbors have already completed the work. The sequence of work should be built in such a way as not to miss important nuances that will then have to be corrected:
- Particular attention should be paid to the condition enclosing parapet. Most often, it is a thin plate of metal, profile, or iron rods. This design will have to be replaced with a brick wall or foam blocks. For the construction of the wall, you need to choose light, hollow bricks so as not to create an unnecessary load on the carrier plate.
Balcony railing
- Glazing it is better to entrust professionals. Depending on the chosen interior, the profile can be wooden or PVC with double glazing. The number of flaps is determined in advance to ensure ventilation and ease of maintenance. When installing windows, expansion profiles are installed that will facilitate the fastening of insulation boards.
glazed balcony
- Sealing cracks, joints, holes, chips and cracks mounting foam, polyurethane sealants or mastic. They protect against the penetration of moisture, dust, the negative effects of the environment.
Sealing gaps on the balcony
- let down energy supply so that access to food is as practical as possible. Electrical work and heat supply should be carried out by specialists with special permits for such work.
Conducting electricity on the balcony
- Warming carried out in the following sequence: walls, and ceiling.
How to insulate the walls on the balcony
To choose the right insulation, you need to know its technical characteristics, pros and cons.
The main parameters that determine the quality of the material is its thermal conductivity, ecological and Fire safety. It is very important that the insulation is light and takes up less space.
- . Multi-layer, consisting of foil and polyethylene foam, a reflective material a few millimeters thick. At the same time, it reflects at least 90% of heat, durable, lightweight, inexpensive. During installation, it easily takes the shape of the surface and is attached.
Insulation of the balcony with penofol
- polyurethane foam. Provides fire and environmental safety. It is applied to the surface by pouring or spraying, closes all the cracks, provides waterproofing, does not require a frame and fastening.
Balcony insulation with polyurethane foam
- Penoplex. These are expanded polystyrene boards. The material practically does not absorb moisture, but is voluminous and poorly accepts the parameters of the surface to which it is attached.
Insulation of the balcony with foam
- Styrofoam. It has excellent sound, steam and heat insulation properties. Due to its cost-effectiveness and environmental friendliness, it is well suited for warming a balcony.
Balcony insulation with polystyrene foam
- Styrodur. A kind of polystyrene foam, extruded, green color, with good performance.
Balcony insulation with styrodur
- Izover (mineral wool). Widespread insulation made on the basis of fiberglass. This is mineral wool, which will retain heat, provide sound insulation, and will not weigh down the structure. Has an affordable price. Used with additional hydro and vapor barrier.
Balcony insulation with isover (mineral wool)
It is not advisable to use fiberglass, as it is flammable and releases toxic substances.
Given the temperature difference between the outdoor air and the room, it is necessary to provide a kind of hydro-barrier that will not allow warm air to create condensate when it comes into contact with a cold fence. The presence of condensate will lead, in the future, to the formation and decay.
The insulation is attached, depending on the type, with glue, special dowels with a wide cap, spacer nails or spraying.
Using mineral wool the surface is pre-primed. After drying, mineral plates smeared with adhesive are applied to the wall. Installation starts from the bottom and is made according to the type of brickwork. Allow the glue to dry completely within a day. It is possible to carry out strengthening in several places with the help of dowels.
Often, a wooden frame is used to lay the slabs, the design of which retains heat worse than insulation. Therefore, it is better to fasten the material end-to-end and seal them with aluminum tape or mounting foam.
It is better to fasten layers of mineral wool end-to-end
The next layer is a vapor barrier. It could be foil polyethylene. It is laid with foil inside the building so that it reflects the heat coming from the house. Insulating materials for other heaters may not be used, depending on the purpose of the room.
How to insulate the floor on the balcony
About a quarter of the heat loss on the balcony occurs through the floor, so work needs to be done to prevent these losses. This is not the most difficult operation and it is quite possible to do it yourself. When choosing a material, it should be taken into account that the level of the floor on the balcony after installation must be at or below the level of the floor in the adjoining room.
There are several simple and affordable ways:
- with a frame device;
- monolithic;
- electric underfloor heating.
Professional skills may require only one - the installation of a warm floor.
Underfloor heating on the balcony
The main point in the choice of method and material is the condition of the carrier plate. In houses of old construction, structures may have wear and tear and are not always ready to withstand heavy loads. Therefore, it is important to coordinate with the specialists of the department of architecture, what weight of materials can be used in the repair. This is especially important when installing monolithic concrete floors.
The frame floor, in turn, can be arranged using:
- mineral wool;
- expanded clay;
- pepoplast;
- foam or expanded polystyrene.
Floor insulation technology consists of several stages.
- Leveling the surface of the plate is carried out if necessary.
- Waterproofing with a polyethylene film or roofing material (for damp rooms).
- The device of a wooden crate. A bar with a height close to the thickness of the insulation is used. It is laid along the length of the balcony at a distance of 50 cm from each other or another convenient distance, depending on the size of the insulation sheets. They leave indents from the walls of 5-7 cm, and the ends - 5 cm, so that the wood does not deform at high humidity. They are fixed to the floor with anchors or self-tapping screws with a depth of at least 4 mm. This will provide a stable hold. If it is necessary to install transverse beams, it is necessary to make cuts at the joints up to half the thickness and make recesses with the help of which the transverse logs are connected to the longitudinal ones. Control the level, do not allow the bars to sag. If necessary, wooden wedges or dies are placed, which are fixed to the floor with mounting foam. It is important to prevent foam from entering the junction of the wedge and the timber.
- Filling the crate is made with the selected insulation.
Cheap and efficient material mineral wool. Available in rolls and slabs, light in weight, easy to install. The size of the canvas is chosen in such a way as not to crumple it and not to bend it. This degrades the protective qualities due to the reduction in the amount of air between the fibers. The main disadvantage of mineral wool is its low moisture resistance, so it is necessary to use a vapor barrier as the next layer.
Popular, inexpensive Styrofoam due to the ease and ease of installation, it is most often used as a heater. It is very hygroscopic and resistant to any environment. Among the disadvantages are deformation under loads and poor sound insulation.
Balcony floor insulation with polystyrene foam
Penoplex it is resistant to mold development, mechanical stress, temperature changes and excellent thermal insulation performance. As disadvantages, you can cancel its combustibility with the release of harmful substances and the thickness of the material.
Insulation of the floor and walls of the balcony with foam
High fire resistance, durability expanded clay. But it is not very good for warming a balcony, since a thick layer is required for normal thermal insulation.
Insulation of the balcony floor with expanded clay
- The gaps remaining after filling with a heater are foamed.
- On top of the insulation or vapor barrier (if applicable), as a rough flooring, after which the selected floor material will follow, chipboard or moisture-resistant plywood is attached.
Cement screed is used only with a fairly solid balcony structure. In order not to exceed the permissible load, a reinforced screed up to 50 mm thick is used.
The following methods will require special professional skills.
Implemented as insulation electrical heating systems using a special infrared film, cable, tapes. They are laid on a thin layer of insulation and mounted in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.
For water floors requires a device in a special way of the water circuit.
Scheme of the device of the water floor
How to insulate the ceiling on the balcony
Before starting work, you should carefully inspect the ceiling for signs of leakage, since even a small amount of moisture falling on top of the insulation can lead to the development of mold.
Given the difficulty of working on the ceiling, it is necessary to protect the eyes and use goggles.
As a material for work, already familiar foam plastic, mineral wool, polystyrene, (foil polyethylene foam) are used.
Penoplex with a density of 35-45kg / cm² allows the use of panels from 20mm, which will provide normal thermal protection. The only drawback is the high cost.
Insulation of the ceiling of the balcony with foam
Thickness polystyrene can be within 50mm, and the density is 15kg / cm², then MDF, PVC or drywall panels are mounted on top. At a density of 25 kg / cm², putty can be applied.
Insulation of the ceiling of the balcony with foam
For ease of installation, marking is carried out taking into account that the plates or sheets of insulation fit well into the prepared crate, determine the level of fastening. It is better to calculate everything in advance at the bottom, then the work at the top will take less time. The thickness of the layers of insulation and finishing should be such as not to interfere with the opening of windows.
Use a different sequence of work:
- Lathing device → installation of insulation → lining.
- Insulation fastening over the entire area → vapor barrier → installation of a wooden crate or frame made of a metal profile → cladding.
If the balcony is located Upstairs buildings, it is important to prevent moisture from the roof from entering the insulation; for this, an additional layer of insulation with polyethylene or foil polyethylene foam is provided under the roof.
The first layer for waterproofing can be a special compound based on bituminous mastic, applied to a concrete slab with a brush. The next step is to install a sheet waterproofing.
How to insulate a balcony with foam
Penoplex is a cluster of expanded polystyrene balls with air gaps. Practically does not absorb moisture, has a long service life, low thermal conductivity. Plates are produced with a thickness of 2-10 cm.
Foam boards
The lightness of the material does not create an additional load on the carrier plate. It is resistant to deformation, does not emit harmful substances. To increase fire safety, a variety marked C is chosen. Since the walls of the balcony are thin, thick insulation boards are used, which will reduce the useful area of the room.
Under the influence of sunlight, penoplex loses its properties, therefore it is used only as an internal insulation.
The material is easily cut, does not crumble, does not create problems during installation. Used to insulate walls, floors and ceilings. The following fastening types are used:
- Dish-type dowels with plastic cores. This mount is suitable for uneven surfaces, roofs made of metal profiles.
- With a special adhesive applied to a pre-primed surface, it is enough to apply the adhesive in dots or in a zigzag. Adheres well to smooth concrete substrates.
- Glue, with additional fixation, dowels.
Methods for applying glue to foam
Penoplex plates are laid in prepared crate cages or without it, on the entire surface. The use of lathing, especially on the front part, worsens thermal protection.
The fitting of the plates is carried out tightly, the joints are sealed with construction tape or filled with mounting foam. The insulation is covered with a layer of polyethylene with a foil layer. Depending on the purpose of the room, vapor barrier may or may not be used.
Foam insulation is suitable for all types of interior decoration: special plaster, plasterboard, wood and finishing boards.
How to insulate a balcony with foam
One of the most common ways to insulate a balcony (walls, floor, ceiling) is foam. This material at a relatively low cost is able, with proper installation, to provide excellent thermal insulation performance. Of the other positive qualities, it is worth noting the resistance to adverse weather conditions. It does not absorb moisture, does not collapse under its influence, is resistant to the formation of rot and mold.
Polyfoam does not emit harmful substances, goes well with other materials.
To insulate the balcony, foam plastic is used both outside and inside. Outdoor work for a multi-storey building is best entrusted to specialized organizations for the purpose of safety.
For internal insulation, a foam plastic thickness of 4-6 cm is sufficient. If the front part is thinner than the side panels, a thickness of up to 10 cm can be applied.
Warming is carried out in two ways:
- Adhesive. On flat surfaces that do not require waterproofing, foam boards can be glued with special glue (Ceresit ST-85). This method is good for arranging the floor for a subsequent screed or walls for plaster. In this case, when the foam sticks, the glue is applied to its outer surface with a thickness of 2-3 mm. Without waiting for complete drying, they apply a reinforcing mesh, but do not flood it and cover it with another layer of glue.
Adhesive foam insulation
- frame. Since the use of other finishing materials requires additional fastening, they arrange a wooden crate or a frame made of a metal profile. This method is convenient for creating a multilayer cake that provides waterproofing from the outside, and vapor barrier from the inside. Layers can fill the cells of the frame or be located under the bars and on top. The foam itself is cut to the size of the cells so as to fill them as tightly as possible. It is fastened with dowels or self-tapping screws with wide mushroom caps.
Frame method of foam insulation
cracks , emptiness , irregularities are filled with scraps, mounting foam or sealant. After drying, you can attach a layer of vapor barrier over the insulation and the cake is ready for plasterboard, plastic panels or other finishing.
How to insulate a plastic balcony
Plastic balconies or decorated with plastic panels are resistant to the external environment, sunlight, temperature changes. Guaranteed service life of high-quality panels is at least 50 years. They are easy to install, have an affordable price, are easy to maintain and look aesthetically pleasing. Due to the positive characteristics, plastic balconies have gained popularity.
Plastic panels improve the aesthetic appearance, provide sufficient thermal protection to balconies with improved glazing.
Balcony with plastic panels
Sheathing the balcony with plastic is carried out on a mounted wooden frame or metal profile, which reacts poorly to temperature changes and changes in humidity. The frame device creates free space between the walls and finishing panels. It is foolish not to take advantage of this moment and add one of the common heaters to this space. If, at the same time, the seams and joints of the balcony structure are sealed, then even one layer polystyrene, penoplex or mineral wool, filling the cells of the crate, will significantly change the microclimate. And the use of an additional layer of vapor barrier will make it possible to use a plastic balcony throughout the year as a full-fledged living space.
How to insulate a wooden balcony
Lovers of wood in the interior, support the style on the balcony. The main advantages of wooden structures are their environmental friendliness, favorable microclimate created by breathable material. The texture of wood, supported by modern finishing materials, creates a cozy atmosphere and an attractive look. However, without additional insulation, a wooden balcony can only be fully used in the warm season. In addition, under the influence of the external environment, the tree quickly ages, absorbs moisture, cracks, and rots. Fixed costs are required to maintain open wooden balconies in an attractive way.
wooden balcony
Insulation with installation will help improve consumer qualities glazing and a set of works on waterproofing.
The interior is well supported by frames made of wood of the appropriate species with double glazing, which will allow the balcony to be used as a living space. After their installation, work is carried out to seal cracks, cracks and junctions using mounting foam. The insulation technology is similar to works for structures made of other materials, however, wood requires mandatory hydro and vapor barrier.
Work order:
- Wooden structures of the balcony are treated with means to protect against decay, insects and increase fire resistance. This also applies to the bars for the crate.
- The concrete base is primed.
- Waterproofing is laid on the prepared surfaces. For the floor, roofing material or mastic is used, for walls and ceilings - polyethylene or foil.
- A wooden frame is prepared from bars, which provide the possibility of laying a heater of a selected thickness.
- Insulation (mineral wool, polystyrene or foam plastic) is tightly laid in the cells of the crate. The remaining voids are filled with foam.
- On top of the insulation, a layer of vapor barrier made of foil polyethylene foam, penofol is attached.
- Finishing with wood panels, clapboard. It must be ensured that the weight of the finishing material does not overload the carrier plate of the balcony. Part of the wooden materials can be replaced with lighter ones, without sacrificing functionality and attractiveness.
To make the insulation of the balcony with your own hands a pleasure and provide an excellent result, think over the goals and tasks in advance, carry out the necessary approvals and measurements. Choose materials according to technical characteristics and your material possibilities. Carry out work in the complex, not missing the little things. And success is guaranteed.
You can also watch a few videos that will help you insulate the balcony with your own hands.
Video
Insulation of balconies and loggias with mineral wool
The technology of insulation of the balcony with foam
Warming and joining a balcony
How to insulate a balcony? The choice of insulation
How to insulate a balcony? Step-by-step instruction
How to insulate a balcony with your own hands: what and how to insulate + video
We will send the material to you by e-mail
The process of warming the room itself is very important, since with the help of such repairs drafts and cold are removed, and the space of the connected room is also expanded. But it is not enough just to put double-glazed windows and cover the cracks and holes with mounting foam. It needs to be warmed up. To save money in your wallet, it is better to insulate the loggia with your own hands, the step-by-step photo instruction presented in the article will help you do the job.
Amazing balcony with ecological materials
Initially, you need to select building materials. It is important to remember that not only thermal performance, but also may depend on the selected components. If the building material is too thick, it will steal the usable area.
Note! Any material for heat preservation must be environmentally friendly, as well as comply with thermal and steam characteristics.
The room can be insulated with the following materials:
- Penofol . An excellent substitute for mineral wool. It has a multi-layer coating, which also has a reflective effect.
- polyurethane foam . Perfect for balconies. It ignites very poorly, made from environmentally friendly materials. Installation is done by pouring.
- Styrofoam . A fairly economical choice of material and also very effective for a balcony.
- Isover . Issued in the form of sheets. Made from mineral wool, with glass fiber particles.
As a rule, expanded polystyrene is mounted on the walls and ceiling. It is good to use it, because its properties have a high coefficient of thermal conductivity, as well as a small thickness. It cuts perfectly with a kitchen knife. An alternative option is foam. For cold winters, sheets 10 cm thick are suitable, for mild weather it is better to use 5 cm.
Related article:
Calculator for calculating the necessary insulation of a loggia or balcony
A loggia is a few square meters that can serve a variety of purposes. To use this room all year round, you need to provide a comfortable temperature there. Every home master can turn it into a cozy, useful and well-equipped space.
Are you going to start arranging these additional square meters, but do not know how to insulate the loggia with your own hands and what materials will be needed for this? We will help you deal with all the questions - our article provides recommendations for choosing a heater and provides step-by-step instructions for thermal insulation of walls, ceiling and loggia floor.
You should, of course, start with planning. You should decide on the functional purpose of this small room. If it is supposed to be used as a warehouse for things that are not too necessary, then warming does not make much sense. But the loggia can be turned into an office, a small gym, a winter garden, etc.
There are also restrictions. For example, a loggia cannot be used as a kitchen room, i.e. install a stove, sink for washing dishes, etc. there. Conducting a central heating system to this area is also prohibited.
There are a number of other restrictions that may be related to the architectural features and fire safety of the building. This may be a ban on glazing above a certain floor, on changing the appearance of the building, the height of the fence, etc.
As practice shows, many manage to somehow get around these standards and arrange a loggia to their liking. Before starting work, it does not hurt to coordinate your plans with supervisory agencies or prepare for problems after the alteration is completed.
The installation of electrical wiring, lighting and underfloor heating during the insulation of the loggia must be thought out in advance so that damage to the heat-insulating material is minimal
But under no circumstances should openings be made in the load-bearing wall, only openings provided for by the original project are allowed. Even a window and door block removed from the loggia can be dangerous.
To keep the loggia warm, you need high-quality glazing. It is better to order it from a reliable company. Double-glazed windows will do the job perfectly.
Part of the space will be "eaten" by a layer of insulation. These centimeters will have to be sacrificed in order to reliably protect the house from the cold. Loggias, which are located on the lower floors, are most often insulated from the outside. We are talking about the best materials for external wall insulation.
From the very beginning, you need to consider options for heating this space.
There are not so many of them, because only suitable for the loggia:
- electric TP;
- portable heater.
Considering that the installation area is small, you can spend money on such convenience as TP. Cable systems are easy to install, all work can be done independently. An IR floor is more difficult to lay, it requires an almost perfectly level base, but electricity costs during operation will be moderate.
But the easiest solution would be to use it, especially if the loggia is not used every day, but only from time to time. Installing a warm floor will require more costs and effort.
The choice of materials and options for warming the loggia with your own hands is quite wide.
Among the most popular it is worth noting:
- mineral wool;
- Styrofoam;
- polyurethane foam;
- expanded polystyrene;
- penofol, etc.
Mineral wool has a low price, but this is almost its only advantage. To lay such material, you will first need to arrange a crate. Mineral wool is sensitive to moisture; when wet, it loses its useful properties, so it is not always suitable for a loggia.
You need to provide a place for installation in advance. Usually, a niche of a suitable size is made on the wall for these purposes. Among the turns of the cable TS, a temperature sensor is placed, which is placed in a corrugated tube. It will also need to be connected to a thermostat.
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
A detailed video guide for warming the loggia with your own hands:
Balcony floor insulation:
Modern materials and technologies make it possible to insulate a loggia really reliably and quickly. In any case, when performing installation work, the requirements of the technology and the manufacturer's recommendations should be observed. Then the result will fully meet expectations, and the insulation will remain effective for many years.
Are you planning to do your own warming of the loggia, but do you still have questions after reading our material? Feel free to ask our experts for advice - write questions in the comments block.
Creating a favorable microclimate on the loggia involves not only wall insulation, the entire space must be airtight. The floor and ceiling surfaces are also sheathed with a material with a low degree of thermal conductivity. In our article, you will learn how to properly insulate a balcony from the inside.
- self-insulation (personal experience)
- . The most useful from youtube
- On the example of Moscow
The choice of heat insulator
Advantages and disadvantages are inherent in each type of thermal insulation. In order to choose the most suitable insulation, you should compare the main characteristics of heat insulators.
The most common options for heat insulators:
- Extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex);
- Foamed polyethylene (penofol);
- Polyurethane foam (PPU);
- Styrofoam;
- Mineral wool.
Mineral wool
The thickness of the sheets varies from 2 to 20 cm. Mineral wool is divided into three types, depending on the components of the raw materials:
- Stone;
- slag;
- Glass.
An example of a mineral wool device on a loggia. The material is placed in the prepared structure. The frame for mounting can be made of metal profiles or wooden bars.
Manufacturers produce cotton wool in the form of mats and soft rolls. In some cases, one side is covered with foil. Aluminum foil improves the level of thermal insulation.
When laying mineral wool, the foil side should be directed into the room. This principle allows heat to be reflected off the aluminum cladding and returned to the room.
This method is quite common, despite the existence of cheaper heat insulators. The insulation is resistant to fire, does not contribute to its spread. When mineral wool is heated, no harmful substances are released into the air.
The main disadvantage is that moisture acts destructively, a vapor barrier device is necessary.
Pay attention to the integrity of the mineral wool packaging before buying. Moisture adversely affects the properties of the heat insulator. For high-quality insulation, it is necessary that the space of the loggia be dry.
Polymer-based insulation
Penoplex, polyurethane foam, polystyrene, foamed polyethylene are polymers treated with foamed compounds.
Advantages:
- The presence of gas bubbles provides not only a good level of thermal insulation, but also a small weight of the plates;
- High degree of moisture resistance;
- The materials are durable;
- Antifungal resistance;
- Simplicity and convenience when laying plates or sheets, as well as rolls (polyethylene foam);
- An economical repair option, subject to the choice of foam as a heater.
Main disadvantage: support the spread of flame during a fire, emit harmful substances in the combustion process.
When choosing foam and other materials based on polymers, it is necessary to correctly select the thickness of the plates and determine the density
If you plan to use the space in winter, in this case, choose a thickness of 50 mm. Density is determined by further coating - a value of 25 kg / cu is suitable for putty. m.
1. Styrofoam sheets
Insulator plates (expanded polystyrene) in the process of laying.
Styrofoam refers to budgetary methods of warming a loggia, however, it is considered a rather fragile material, so a crate is required for installation. A worthy replacement is extruded polystyrene foam; its installation does not require the creation of a special frame.
2. Penoplex
Extruded polystyrene foam boards (thickness 50 mm) are used as insulation. The seams between the elements are sealed with mounting foam. Penoplex is attached with the help of special dish-shaped dowels ("fungi").
3. Penofol
The material is used as a separate heat insulator, and with the help of penofol it is possible to provide a vapor barrier of expanded polystyrene. Due to the foil side, warm air is reflected and retained in the room.
In order to speed up the insulation of the structure, you can use an alternative method of thermal insulation - spraying polyurethane foam (PPU).
4. Polyurethane foam
PPU is one of the most modern heat insulators. The cost of application services is considered high compared to other analogues, however, many have managed to evaluate the performance properties of PPU. This insulation is characterized by high thermal insulation performance, due to the finely porous structure.
Spraying of polyurethane foam is carried out by specialists, one day is enough for installation work, it also does not take much time to dry completely.
The main stages of work on the insulation of the loggia space
In order to increase the usable area in your home and operate the premises all year round, you must:
1. Close the gaps, if any. Carefully study the room to eliminate all design flaws. As a rule, the gaps are filled with mounting foam, even if they are of a significant size.
After complete drying, it is necessary to trim the excess.
2. Glazing with reliable double-glazed windows.
3. Arrange a waterproofing layer. To protect against moisture, waterproofing with penetrating properties is used - Penetron, Aquaton, etc. The composition is applied with a roller, brush, or sprayed. Such impregnation penetrates into the thickness, so the walls become maximally resistant to adverse weather, and strength characteristics are improved.
The device of the waterproofing layer allows you to eliminate the most minor surface cracks that may not be visible visually.
4. Thermal insulation layer. To organize a warm structure, we use the selected material (polyurethane foam, foam plastic, polyethylene foam, polystyrene, etc.).
5. Installation of a vapor barrier layer. In order to make a vapor barrier, special polymer membranes (“breathing”) should be used, as well as films “Rockwool”, “Izospan”, penofol.
When using penofol, lay the insulation in such a way that the side covered with foil is directed into the room. Under this condition, the heat will be constantly reflected from the foil, lingering inside the space.
6. Final finishing of walls, floor and ceiling surfaces.
A detailed description of each stage can be found in the article: .
Balcony decoration
Purposes of creating interior decoration:
- External masking of the heat insulator;
- Organization of a favorable internal environment in the room.
To create an interior balcony, you can choose from various finishes. Plaster, plastic panels, MDF, lining, plywood, plasterboard sheets and even a block house are perfect for the finishing layer.
The lining panels are environmentally friendly and reliable. One of the main advantages of the finishing material is rigidity. The lining is fixed on a wooden frame crate.
The walls of the loggia are lined with clapboard, the flooring is laminate.
Facing the balcony with a block house.
The plastic panels have grooves for connecting elements. The plastic version of the lining has less rigidity and strength than wood.
Installation of GKLV sheets on metal profiles. Plasterboard slabs can be decorated with wallpaper, painted, or lined with decorative plaster.
Wall decoration with wallpaper over GKLV sheets.
Bamboo wallpaper. The basis for finishing - drywall.
Video
1. The result of warming the loggia.
Glazed balcony. Demonstration of electrical outputs. Testing the strength of extruded polystyrene foam. The use of foam plastic with a thickness of 30 and 50 mm, wall finishing with putty. Concrete floor screed over insulation boards.
2. Stages of repair work on the balcony.
Sequential process of arranging the premises. Scheme of thermal insulation of walls with foam plastic and foamed polyethylene, finishing - plastic panels. Floor: leveling, thermal insulation, OSB cladding, installation of laminate lamellas.
.You can choose a suitable insulation for a balcony from the following list:
- mineral wool;
- foam plastic with a density of 25-35 kg / m3;
- extruded polystyrene foam (aka foam polystyrene);
- thin foil insulation made of polyethylene foam (penofol).
It is impossible to say unequivocally which of the listed materials is the best, each of them has its pros and cons, as well as installation features. If you take mineral wool, then a vapor barrier device will be required to protect it, otherwise the open pores of the fibers will be saturated with moisture from the room, as a result of which the thermal insulation properties of the material will be lost. But basalt wool absolutely does not burn and does not even smolder when exposed to an open flame.
Styrofoam beats all competitors with a low price and good resistance to moisture, but it quickly ignites. If the cotton wool had to be protected from vapors, then the foam plastic would have to be isolated as much as possible from an accidental spark. In this regard, expanded polystyrene and foam plastic behave much better, which does not burn on its own, but simply melts from heating. At the same time, these polymers have the lowest thermal conductivity, and absolutely do not perceive moisture.
It is better to use materials like penofol together with more serious heaters, since their own resistance to heat transfer is small due to their small thickness. But as a vapor barrier and additional cladding when insulating the walls and ceiling of the balcony, penofol is just a godsend.
What is the best way to insulate a balcony? Each material that will be used as thermal insulation has advantages and disadvantages. In addition, when installing a heater, it is necessary to take into account the features of this process and the nuances of operation.
Materials for thermal insulation can be bought in specialized stores. When making a choice, consider the main purpose of the product.
Today, thermal insulation on a balcony can be done very quickly; penofol is widely used in work. It is only suitable for indoor renovations. Having a special protection on the one hand, the material is able to effectively reflect heat. The substrate, located on the other side, acts as a heater.
Polyfoam is suitable for both outdoor work and for thermal protection from the inside. A feature of the material is that the foam can be put under the plaster. It is also suitable for the installation of a wet facade. The plates must be closed with a reinforcing mesh, a special composition suitable for finishing is applied to it. After it dries, the surface is painted.
Reinforced and extruded foam.
Remember that when warming outside, work cannot be stretched for the winter season. But the insulation of the balcony with your own hands from the inside can be done in winter. Styrofoam has 1 disadvantage that must be considered: it deteriorates in direct sunlight.
Materials for warming the balcony from the inside can be different. Mineral wool has excellent thermal insulation performance. But it must be laid together with a layer of waterproofing, do not forget about the vapor barrier.
Formation of a vapor barrier.
Warming the balcony with mineral wool with your own hands can be done in a few days. Pay attention to the quality of installation work, there should be no cold bridges in the room. Mineral wool can be placed on the floor, walls and ceiling inside the balcony to keep it warm in winter.
Mineral wool.
Penoplex is a bright orange material that belongs to extruded polystyrene. It is not at all difficult to insulate with such material with your own hands. It is very dense, great for thermal insulation of floors and finishing work outside. On top of the foam, which was laid on the floor, a screed is made. This material is 1.5-2 times more expensive than polystyrene, which must be taken into account when planning estimates.
Penoplex.
When choosing a material, consider your experience in construction. If a number of heaters can be laid on their own, then others require professional installation.
It is problematic to make the insulation of the balcony outside on your own. The process is best entrusted to professional climbers. When choosing materials in the store, take into account performance characteristics. In addition, the complexity of the installation work must be taken into account.
Step by step instructions will help you do everything right. The process of warming the balcony from the outside consists of the following steps:
- Buy a primer and apply it to the surface.
- Glue foam or sheets of extruded polystyrene foam. Consider the wind load, fasten the sheets to the dowels-fungi.
- The thermal insulation of the balcony must be covered with a reinforcing mesh, it must be fixed with recessed dowels.
- Cover the reinforcing layer with glue, apply 2 layers. When it hardens, take a good spatula, remove streaks and bumps. After that, everything is ready for finishing work.
- Paint the balcony or apply facade plaster.
For high-quality insulation from the outside, you can buy mineral insulation for the balcony. Basalt wool has proven itself well, it is produced in slabs. For their installation, the arrangement of the crate and vapor barrier will be required. You can not do without a layer of waterproofing - it will protect the insulation layer from getting wet.
How to insulate a balcony from the inside? All work on the installation of insulation can be divided into the following stages:
- Remove old structural elements. Prepare the surface.
- It is necessary to carry out glazing, monitor the quality of the installation of frames. They can be made from wood, plastic or aluminium. Reinforce the parapet if necessary.
- Lay insulation on the floor and side partitions. Insulate the balcony from the inside, paying attention to the thermal insulation of the parapet and ceiling. Capital walls can not be covered with insulation.
How to insulate a balcony from the inside? Mineral wool, penoplex have proven themselves well. Plates of material are installed on the crate, all joints are blown with mounting foam. Sometimes apartment owners make crates from wooden beams, but material companies recommend metal profiles. The fact is that the humidity inside the balconies is high, the wood can deteriorate, and the thermal insulation must be made reliably.
No one imposes strict requirements on the crate, the choice of material remains with the person who will make the sheathing. If you are thinking about how to insulate a balcony from the inside, then you should choose the material, the purchase of which will not become a burden on the family budget.
Warming the balcony with your own hands does not require large financial costs.
Granular expanded clay is often laid on the floor. Such insulation for a balcony inside has a porous structure and consists of baked clay, so it is environmentally friendly. Builders use it to insulate floors and ceilings.
The work process is simple, it is enough to create a layer of expanded clay and spill it with liquid cement so that the granules are held together. But keep in mind that such material will take 15-20 cm of height from floor to ceiling. In addition, a thin-layer screed will have to be poured over the expanded clay, because the relief surface will not be suitable for laying, for example, the same parquet or laminate.
Another option for insulation is penofol. It is made from polyethylene foam. The material is especially suitable for water-heated floors, as it has a foil coating with a heat-reflecting effect. This insulation has 4 advantages: it does not let the wind through, retains heat, prevents the penetration of water and has vapor barrier properties.
Insulation of balconies and loggias: eight mistakes of finishers
Earlier, we examined the insulation of the balcony in sufficient detail, now let's dwell on the insulation of the loggias in more detail. Many people call loggias balconies, not seeing the difference between them, although this is not true.
In general, initially a loggia is a recess in the wall, enclosed by a colonnade, but we are interested in a loggia in the sense that this word was given in Soviet, and later Russian, multi-storey construction.
So, a loggia is an open, non-insulated (this is important for us!) Premises that have at least two (most often three) walls. The last point is the main difference from the balcony, which has only one wall - the outer wall of the house, to which it is attached, blown by all the winds.
The loggia is recessed flush into the outer wall of the house, which gives us a number of advantages. In particular, one of the three walls (internal) can be removed altogether, thus expanding the area of the room.
When the glazing work is completed, it's time to deal directly with the insulation. You should start with the choice of insulation material.
Many use traditional foam and mineral wool out of habit, although modern industry is ready to provide much more advanced and effective materials for insulation.
For example, extruded polystyrene foam (extruded polystyrene foam, XPS). The basis for this material, as well as for many other plastics, is polystyrene - a crystalline colorless substance.
It is melted, foamed with a mixture of freons with carbon dioxide and extruded. This tricky word is called squeezing a semi-liquid uncured material through a hole.
The process is reminiscent of squeezing toothpaste out of a tube, with the only difference being that the holes in the “squeezer”-extruder are a slot a meter or more wide. The result is a wide and long tape, which is sold in rolls or in the form of panels. Extruded polystyrene foam is called penolplex (or penoplex) and is an excellent material for floor insulation.
Possible problems with the insulation of the balcony
Before insulating the balcony inside, I recommend thinking carefully about all the pros and cons of such a solution. Despite the fact that more and more people resort to installing heaters before decorating this room, this operation has several disadvantages.
Here are the ones that I consider the main ones:
- Reducing the usable floor space. If just finishing already reduces the size of a balcony or loggia, then an additional layer of heat-insulating material exacerbates the problem even more. Therefore, if you have a tiny architectural element, consider whether the resulting additional area is worth the money and effort spent.
- The appearance of condensed moisture inside structures. When using heaters, the dew point shifts inward, which leads to mold and damage to finishing materials.
This shortcoming, however, is easy to deal with. I will tell you how to insulate the balcony with your own hands from the inside so as to achieve the ideal microclimate inside.
Sequencing
The very technology of warming a loggia or balcony consists of several important steps:
- Sealing gaps and eliminating defects. Before laying the insulation for the balcony inside, you need to get rid of all cracks, bumps, potholes and bulges. I recommend blowing out small cracks with mounting foam (just choose a quality one), cement mortar will cope with more serious troubles.
- Installation of waterproofing. To do this, I always recommend my clients to use penetrating materials. For example, Avatron or Penetron. They are easy to apply with a sprayer, but you can also use a simple roller or brush.
The peculiarity here is that the liquid penetrates deep into the mineral surfaces, as a result of which they are not only protected from water, but also do not freeze during operation at low air temperatures.
- Heat insulator installation. It is easy to do it inside with your own hands. You do not need to install scaffolding or call aerial platforms. The main thing is to strictly follow the technology, which I will discuss below.
When choosing materials for work, immediately think about whether you will insulate the floor and ceiling. For these surfaces, more durable heat insulators are needed that do not change their properties from external mechanical stress.
- Arrangement of a vapor barrier layer. It is needed just in order to avoid the condensation of moisture that forms on the balcony inside the heat-insulating materials. For this, vapor-permeable polymer membranes are used, for example, Isospan or Rockwool.
By the way, you can avoid this stage by using heat insulators with a foil layer, placing it inside the balcony. But I, nevertheless, would recommend not to save. Moreover, the vapor barrier membrane will not increase the estimate much.
- Decorative decoration of the balcony. It all depends on your imagination, the amount of money and the purpose of the room. I cannot give specific advice.
The vapor barrier is glued joint-to-joint, after which these places are sealed with metal tape - all this creates the so-called. thermos effect.
Then follows the installation of the balcony flooring. As a base, it is recommended to create a 4-centimeter screed layer, with a mandatory gap between it and the walls of 1 cm. This margin is necessary in case of thermal expansion.
You can create such a gap by installing polyethylene foam around the perimeter, 1 cm thick, and then start pouring. When the screed hardens, ceramic tiles are laid and fixed with tile adhesive.
The crate in a panel house is best mounted from a wooden beam with a section of 40x20 mm, and it must be dry and treated with an antiseptic. Stuffing takes place both horizontally and vertically with the help of self-tapping screws and dowels, driven directly into the thickness of the concrete.
Further, insulation implies finishing, which can be carried out in 2 ways: installation of plastic panels - width 25 cm; installation of moisture-resistant drywall - with this approach, insulation involves additional finishing work: prime and putty the surface, remove the corners and align them.
After that, you can paint the walls or stick wallpaper. As for the installation of lighting fixtures (lamps, floor lamps, etc.), the electrical wiring to them must be laid even before the start of interior finishing work.
Do-it-yourself insulation of a balcony in a panel house is often not without errors. Installing a vapor barrier on the cold side of a heat-insulating material - a film or membrane is placed between the wall and the insulation. For this reason, condensation forms on the surface.
With different types of mineral wool during operation, their correct operation is not ensured. The result is the wetting of the insulation and the gradual destruction of the entire interior finish, followed by dismantling and replacement.
The installation of wooden planks directly in the expanded polystyrene layer leads to a lack of solidity in the thickness of the insulation and the formation of the so-called. cold bridges. The same applies to cases of mounting a metal crate inside the insulation layer. In addition to "cold bridges", condensate appears on the metal, which destroys the heat-insulating material.
Restrictions on insulation of balconies
But I can tell you what is absolutely impossible to do when decorating a balcony or loggia. Moreover, violation of these rules may result in administrative or criminal liability.
So, it is forbidden:
- Demolish load-bearing partitions between two balconies (loggias) or this room and the residential part of the apartment.
- Install engineering communications on the balcony (in particular, heating, water supply and sewerage) connected to the general system of the apartment.
- To equip a kitchen or a bathroom on the balcony (although, as you understand, no one forbids an office or a bedroom).
- Install glazing on balconies that are equipped with fire escapes to evacuate people during a fire.
- Mount hanging flower beds or devices for drying clothes outside the enclosing structures of the balcony.
- Reduce the height of the parapet of a balcony or loggia (by dismantling the upper part or raising the floor). The minimum height of the parapet should be 1.1 meters.
- Violate the appearance of the facade of the building (this is for information, so insulating the balcony from the inside with your own hands, you are unlikely to cause damage to the exterior of the house).
- Independently glaze balconies located above the 9th floor, while violating the requirements of fire safety.
As you can see, not all of these requirements are observed by our compatriots, but my conscience would be restless if I did not tell you about them.
Now a little about the materials that can be used.
Ways of internal insulation of the balcony
Pouring concrete, expanded clay layer and similar methods cost a lot of money. You can make a similar insulation, but at the same time save money. An option for a cheap finish made of wood and foam can be like this:
How to insulate a balcony? Choice of heater.
For thermal insulation of such premises, a huge amount of materials is used. I have compiled a table that lists the most popular varieties with an indication of the features of each.
| Name | Description |
| Styrofoam | Dense material with a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, having a finely granulated porous structure. Do not confuse styrofoam for thermal insulation and packaging foam. The latter has large pores and breaks quickly. Not suitable for floor insulation, as it does not withstand the load. It can be used for installation on the enclosing plate, walls and ceiling. |
| Extruded polystyrene foam | A material that perfectly retains heat indoors and, thanks to a special production technology, has increased mechanical strength. Microorganisms do not multiply on the surface of expanded polystyrene, it is non-flammable and environmentally friendly. |
| Penofol | Another name for the material is polyethylene foam. For balconies, it is better to use insulation with a foil layer, which reflects thermal energy and prevents moisture from the insulation layer. The foil, among other things, plays the role of a vapor barrier membrane. |
| polyurethane foam | A special composition that is applied to surfaces using special equipment. After hardening, it forms a homogeneous heat-insulating layer that prevents unproductive consumption of thermal energy and cooling of the balcony. The material is great for warming, but you can’t cope with its application with your own hands. |
| Mineral wool | A material based on basalt fiber, which is great for insulating walls and ceilings of a balcony. To increase efficiency, it must be protected from moisture. It is impossible to insulate the floor with mineral wool, as it does not withstand significant mechanical stress. |
| Multilayer panels | We are talking about sandwich panels, which are used for both insulation and decoration of the balcony. They have a beautiful top layer that does not require additional finishing. Thermal insulation is glued from below, which reduces the coefficient of thermal conductivity of enclosing structures. |
On this, I consider the theoretical part to be over and proceed to the presentation of specific schemes for the internal insulation of balconies and loggias using several, in my opinion, the most effective materials.
The most common option is polystyrene foam. It has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity and is easily mounted with your own hands inside the balcony.
I tell you how to insulate the balcony from the inside with polystyrene foam:
- After carrying out preliminary operations (sealing gaps and waterproofing), I always treat the surface with a penetrating primer. It improves the adhesive properties of mineral surfaces, removes dust from concrete monoliths and reduces the consumption of the adhesive composition.
Processing can be done with a regular brush or spray. Very carefully process not only the walls, but also the ceiling with the floor. Otherwise, then there will be difficulties when gluing polystyrene foam.
- It is possible to continue work after priming only after the composition has completely dried, which takes about 6 hours. If the walls of the balcony where I work are made of porous materials (for example, foam concrete), I always prime everything twice.
- After priming, you can proceed with the installation of expanded polystyrene, which is supplied in slabs. Installation is carried out using glue and special fasteners with wide caps.
I prepare the adhesive composition from the purchased dry powder. It is necessary to mix it with water in the proportions indicated in the instruction manual, and then achieve uniformity using a mixer connected to a drill.
I apply the finished glue to the heat-insulating material, after which the expanded polystyrene sheet is glued to the wall. I do the same with other materials, placing them in a checkerboard pattern with overlapping joints.
- In order for the plates to fit firmly, you need to fix them with dowels with plastic caps. To do this, I use a drill to make a hole in the polystyrene foam and the wall, after which I install the appropriate bracket there.
- Considering that polystyrene foam does not absorb water, a vapor-permeable membrane can be omitted. Although I see no reason to buy and fix a special film on the surfaces.
- The last step is plastering. To avoid the destruction of the decorative coating, you must first fix the fiberglass reinforcing mesh on the foam polystyrene plates, and then plaster over it. That's exactly what I do.
- Before plastering, you can install perforated galvanized corners on the corners, which will facilitate the work and protect the corners from damage during operation.
This material is also widely used for internal insulation of balconies. You can mount it on the walls using special bituminous mastic, construction foam or plastic dowels with wide caps.
I'll tell you how I make foam insulation using polyurethane foam:
- To begin with, as in all other cases, defects are repaired and the surfaces of the balcony are waterproofed. By the way, the primer will not hurt either.
- After performing the preparatory operations, it is necessary to squeeze out the mounting foam from the perimeter along the perimeter of the pre-fitted foam slab. More foam is not needed, the insulation will already be securely fixed to the surface.
- After waiting a few seconds, you need to attach the material to the wall.
- Further work is carried out using a similar technology. Naturally, I recommend moving the seams in a checkerboard pattern to avoid the formation of cold bridges that reduce the effectiveness of ongoing insulation work.
- To keep the insulation stronger, it can be further strengthened with dowels with wide caps. Although it is not necessary to do so.
- The last stage is decorative finishing. Here I completely shift the responsibility for the choice of materials to you. Think for yourself, decide for yourself.
Well, I can not tell you about the use of mineral wool insulation. I can’t say that they are very effective, but they are very popular. I focus on them only because the laying technology itself is more complicated here.
The fact is that mineral wool is very soft and does not have rigid geometric dimensions as such. It is produced in the form of rolls into which material is rolled up with a thickness of 2 to 20 cm.
I recommend buying stone (basalt) wool with a heat-reflecting foil layer for arranging a balcony. The latter will effectively protect the insulator from moisture and play the role of a reflective screen that traps the thermal energy of heating devices inside the room.
Given the described technical characteristics, it is possible to mount the insulating material only under a pre-arranged crate made of wooden bars or galvanized profiles. But this is good, since you can then install a decorative cladding on the crate. For example, lining or plastic panels.
For example, I will tell you about insulation using wooden blocks. It is better to take not square, but rectangular lumber with a section of 3 by 5 or 3 by 7 cm. This will save the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe balcony.
The crate can be installed in two ways:
- horizontally - if later you trim the balcony with plastic panels;
- vertically - if you have chosen lining as a material for decorative finishing.
Features of balconies in Khrushchev
There is nothing complicated in warming a typical Khrushchev house and in fact it is not much different from warming a loggia. There is no point in finishing the balcony without insulation, because. this is unlikely to bring the desired result.
Considering that the balcony is located outside the building, I immediately want to note that it will never be warm there in winter, only if you do not insulate 10-15 centimeters and install heating radiators. But on such a balcony there will be very little space!
Yes, and it makes no sense. on balconies, mainly sliding frames with one or two glasses are installed. Ready-made insulated loggia Why did I lead all this, oh yes! In addition to the fact that it makes no sense to buy expensive thermal insulation materials, we will insulate the balcony with foam plastic! Before carrying out all work, be sure to treat the concrete with an antiseptic solution for bricks and concrete, since the concrete has been exposed to aggressive environmental influences for a long time.
Let's make a list and try to include everything you need:
- Perforator;
- Screwdriver or screwdriver;
- Mounting foam;
- Styrofoam with a thickness of 5 centimeters;
- Construction stapler;
- Level, tape measure and pencil;
- Stationery knife;
- Wall panels or eurolining (depending on your preferences);
- Plinth and fittings; A piece of linoleum or laminate;
- Fasteners.
Styrofoam laying can be started both from the floor and from the walls. We make a typical crate with a step of 50 centimeters parallel to the floor (we will attach the cladding to it). We fill the space between the bars with foam and thoroughly foam everything.
The thickness of the walls is 5 centimeters, the thickness of the balcony floor insulation is 10 centimeters, otherwise our insulation will “eat” half of the balcony and it will become very narrow! The pictures attached to the article show what is being done and how.
Finishing
After we have foamed everything, we cover the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe insulated balcony with foam. It is advisable to do this when using plastic panels in the finish and be sure to use “wooden” wall panels or eurolining, since this will be additional protection against moisture.
The panels are attached to the crate using a construction stapler. The final step will be laying linoleum or laminate and installing a floor plinth. It is important to make a solid base under the floor covering.
10 mm plywood is best suited for this. If you have any questions, write! We will be happy to answer them! I also advise you to read my article on how to make a closet on the balcony.
Balcony insulation in an old house and in a new building has significant differences. This is due not only to the small area of the Khrushchev loggias, but also to their design features:
- The reinforced concrete slab at the base of the balcony has a slope to the outside. This was done so that rainwater would flow down. The same will happen with the ceiling formed by the loggia of the upper floor. On average, the height difference is about 150 mm. The walls are not even, this is the trouble of all old houses.
- Lattice fence. For insulation, you will have to build a parapet and install double-glazed windows. For a strong fence, foam blocks 10 cm thick will suffice.
- Bad condition of the board. In many homes, balconies are already starting to crumble and fall apart.
It is worth consulting with specialists and, if necessary, reconstructing the stove. All global alterations must be agreed with the supervisory authorities, otherwise problems will arise in the future.
Warming of balconies with mineral wool is carried out under the constructed crate. A lining is attached over the frame - wooden or plastic panels with special grooves.
A well-known fact is the building recommendation to carry out insulation from the outside of the building. However, in the insulation of balconies and loggias, it is often not possible to place the insulation material outside. The internal placement of the insulation layer requires certain calculations, adherence to technology and the correct selection of materials so that in the future the work performed does not lead to wetting of the walls, corners and ceiling inside the remote structure.
Balcony insulation with mineral wool
What materials can be used to insulate a balcony and a loggia from the inside? What finish will allow you to reliably protect the insulation from the interior space and create an aesthetic appearance of the interior walls?
In modern technologies for insulating open hinged structures (balconies), four types of material are used as internal insulation: polystyrene foam, foam plastic, penofol and mineral wool. Consider the technological features of installation and types of cotton wool insulation used for thermal insulation of balconies.
Depending on the raw materials used in the production, there are three main types of mineral wool: glass, stone and slag. All three materials are suitable for insulation work.
Mineral wool is a soft material that does not have rigid dimensions. It is supplied in the form of rolls (before laying they are unwound into a track) or soft mats. Sometimes one side of the insulation is covered with aluminum foil to enhance the thermal insulation properties.
Floor and ceiling insulation
The first question is which insulation technology to choose, the answer depends on the configuration of your loggia. The best option is when a concrete parapet is available, and if there is a metal fence instead, then there are several scenarios for further actions. The first - the parapet can be laid out from foam blocks or aerated concrete, and the metal can be completely removed. This path is the most acceptable both in terms of excellent insulation and design of the loggia, and security.
The second scenario - the fence is sewn up with corrugated board, and then a wooden frame is made of beams for attaching the insulation. This path is somewhat shorter, but it cannot be said that it will cost you much less. There is a weak point here - wooden bars will serve as cold bridges and in order to get rid of them, you will have to put a heater in 2 layers with an offset. There is a third way - the device of a panoramic loggia without a parapet with full-height glazing.
The technology of finishing with foam plastic, which you have to follow when insulating a glazed loggia with a concrete parapet, is quite understandable. Mounting foam is first applied to the cleaned and slightly moistened surface of the walls for the primary fixation of expanded polystyrene or polystyrene boards. Pre-cooked and cut to size plates are pressed against the wall and glued on the foam to the surface.
At the same time, we insulate the walls of the loggia in the likeness of brickwork, placing foam sheets with bandaging of the seams. In simple words, the vertical seams of each subsequent row should be at least 150 mm apart from the seams of the previous one. In the process, it is necessary to monitor the vertical using the building level. After the foam has hardened, it is recommended to fix each expanded polystyrene plate to the wall with dowels - umbrellas.
The process of warming the ceiling of the loggia is a little more complicated, the help of an assistant will not hurt here, although with a certain skill you can manage it yourself. Insulation plates will have to be immediately fixed to the ceiling with dowels, for which it is necessary to drill holes quite accurately, and then hammer in the dowels while supporting the plate. Upon completion, all seams and cracks are carefully filled with the same polyurethane foam.
Now you need to create a frame for mounting the interior trim of drywall, plastic, lining or other facing materials. Wooden slats cannot be attached to the insulation, but you can drill a hole through it in concrete. Which is done using a drill with a diameter of 6 mm, and then the slats are screwed directly to the wall with special screws for concrete (called frame dowels).
Having dealt with the walls, you can go to the ceiling. To insulate it, I recommend using foam. Moreover, you need to buy the usual material for insulation and that variety of it, which is supplemented with a heat-reflecting foil layer, which increases the strength of the material and helps to keep the heat inside.
You need to insulate the ceiling in the same way as the walls, using polyurethane glue and dowels. Only first you need to stick the first layer, and on top - the second, with a heat-reflecting surface.
The seams between the parts must be sealed with mounting foam, and at the end - glued with a special metallized adhesive tape. In this case, even a strong cold will not prevent you from creating an immortal masterpiece in your office on the balcony.
If, of course, you take care of floor insulation, which, for example, I carry out as follows:
- I clean the floor surface from the remnants of building materials, cement influx, dirt, debris, glue, and so on;
- I cover the floor with penofol;
- on top I mount a crate from wooden bars pre-cut with an electric jigsaw;
- I install heat-insulating material inside the crate, sealing the cracks with construction foam;
- I mount a draft floor from plywood or OSB boards;
- I lay a floor covering on top (usually linoleum or laminate).
However, my neighbor - a future professor - wanted to make a heated floor in his balcony office. So I had to tell him the order of work in this case:
- on the reinforced concrete floor of the balcony, you need to make a screed using a self-leveling mixture in order to level out all the protrusions and irregularities;
- on top of the frozen screed, you need to lay a layer of heat-reflecting material with a heat insulator;
- mount a heating electric cable from above, securing it with a special tape (you remember that you can’t do water heating on a balcony, which means a water-heated floor too);
- pour another layer of cement screed on top;
- install the selected decorative flooring.
There are two ways to insulate the walls of the balcony from the inside:
- direct fastening of the insulation to the surface with adhesive and dowels;
- installation of thermal insulation with a wooden crate.
The first method is more acceptable when it is required to insulate the loggia inside with foam plastic or extruded polystyrene foam (foam foam). Moreover, the latter is often attached to the walls "dry" with dowels, without the use of adhesive. There is nothing to worry about, the main thing is that the insulation plates are installed correctly, that is, without any gaps. The density and strength of foam allows it to hold well on dowels alone and at the same time bear the load of the inner lining.
Wall surfaces are first cleaned and leveled, after which they are covered with a layer of deeply penetrating primer using a roller. After it dries (the time is indicated on the package), a slab insulation is glued to the wall. For this, a ready-made building mixture is used, which is applied around the entire perimeter of each slab and at several points in the middle. After 2 days, the material is additionally attached with dowels.
By the way, the thickness of the foam insulation layer must be at least 100 mm for all walls and ceiling. If the balcony is insulated with polystyrene foam, then a thickness of 80 mm is sufficient. After the installation of thermal insulation is completed, its surface can be plastered using a reinforcing glass mesh or other types of finishes can be applied.
As for mineral wool, it can also be put on glue, but it's still easier to use battens. They are installed on the walls and ceiling with an interval less than 1-2 cm of the width of the insulation boards, so that the latter is inserted between the bars by surprise. According to reviews, when insulating with rolled wool, it is necessary to take into account its gradual sliding down and, in order to avoid this phenomenon, put additional horizontal lintels of the crate.
For internal insulation of almost all structures, expanded polystyrene is very widely used. Its low cost does not affect the quality. It is sold in the form of plates with a thickness of 5 cm or more. If the apartment is located in the conditions of the north, then it is better to use sheets 15 cm thick. For the installation of foam, they make a crate with the same cells. Expanded polystyrene is convenient in that it can be easily cut with an ordinary knife.
The positive aspects of this insulation are that it is odorless, does not emit harmful substances, is environmentally friendly and does not affect human health. Sheets, as a rule, are fixed on special "umbrellas" or building glue. As a savings, it is better to insulate the balcony inside it.
Mineral wool is also quite popular. Such insulation is slightly more expensive than foam plastic, but this is due to the additional sound insulation that the material has. Therefore, using mineral wool, you can not only insulate the structure with high quality, but also eliminate street noise. It is sold in the form of yellow rolls.
Insulation of the loggia Secrets of skill from Alexei Zemskov
The fire safety of this insulation is at a high level, and the absence of a specific smell makes mineral wool one of the most popular. The material begins to melt at a temperature of 1000 degrees. Under such rolls, it is also necessary to make a crate. Another plus is easy cutting. The disadvantage is due to the composition, which includes powdered glass, which sticks into the skin when working and causes itching and redness.
Penoplex is a new insulation that has appeared on the building materials market relatively recently and has already become popular. It has a low weight, due to which it is convenient to work with it. Penoplex is produced in the form of rectangular sheets, the cutting of which is possible even with a clerical knife. According to the method of attachment, it is similar to foam, which is glued or fixed with fasteners. The surface of the material is rough, so it does not slip in the hands.
Decorative decoration of the balcony
I will end my story with a short story about how to finish the balcony after it has been insulated. To do this, you can use many different materials:
- plastic panels;
- ordinary and decorative plaster;
- wallpaper;
- tiles;
- wooden lining.
Considering that I told you how to insulate a balcony with mineral wool, I will continue this topic. I will describe how you can install lining or plastic panels on the walls. The technology is very similar, since both of these materials are separate lamellas connected to each other using a special system of spikes and grooves.
And there is not much to do here:
- the first part is mounted on the installed crate, starting from the corner;
- after that, all subsequent parts are installed.
I tend to prefer wood as it's a natural material, but plastic is easier to work with, doesn't require finishing, and is cheap.
As previously mentioned, foam plastic is cheap, but nevertheless it is practical, many builders use it. What is the best way to insulate a balcony from the inside with polystyrene foam:
Insulation of the balcony with foam
Insulation of a balcony or loggia allows not only to get rid of drafts and dampness, but also to expand the usable area of the apartment. To insulate a loggia, it is necessary not only to use high-quality window blocks, but also to insulate the walls, floor, ceiling of a balcony or loggia.
Advantages of PENOPLEX COMFORT® boards for balcony insulation:
- High compressive strength;
- Low coefficient of thermal conductivity;
- Zero water absorption;
- Environmental friendliness;
- Ease and simplicity during installation;
- Low vapor permeability, which is very important for internal insulation.
Scheme 1 - do-it-yourself balcony insulation
- Loggia wall;
- Balcony insulation PENOPLEX COMFORT®;
- sheet material;
- crate;
- Fastener;
- Loggia floor.
Penoplex is actively used in the insulation of rooms. You can fix it to the surface using bituminous mastics, mounting foam or mushroom dowels. Consider the option of mounting on mounting foam.
Foam mounting
So. Waterproofing done. Mounting foam is applied to the insulation plate around the perimeter. It's enough. After applying, wait a couple of seconds and fix the plate on the insulated surface. The next plate is laid end-to-end to the first. After two days, you can fix the plates with additional dowels. Then the whole process is repeated in the same order as described above. Do the finishing to your liking. You can sew up the insulation boards with plastic panels, they look very original.
Additionally, we fix the plates with dowels
Advice. If the balcony is intended only for storing essential items on it, then it is enough to insulate the walls in one layer. If you need to insulate more thoroughly, then it is better to lay the insulation in two layers.
The process of warming the balcony is completed. As you can see, it does not represent anything complicated. If you are just planning to do this work, then our article will help you. If you have already done the insulation of the loggia yourself, then share your methods with readers in the comments.
