Board compost pit. How to make a compost pit in the country - an easy way to get first-class fertilizer for free. What can and cannot be thrown into the compost pit

Not everyone is attracted to the idea self cooking fertilizers at their summer cottage. The main reason is a misunderstanding of the role of compost. Some people are also embarrassed by the smells that accompany the process of “ripening” of the mass. This article will introduce the production rules of one of the best organic fertilizers and with existing technologies for building a bunker, as well as with what needs to be done to eliminate the manifestations of unpleasant "side effects".

• The problem of waste disposal is partially solved.
• Compost not only feeds the soil, but, unlike many other means (preparations), retains moisture in it.
• There is no need to allocate a segment for the storage of imported manure, which is one of the most used fertilizers on summer cottages. The hole does not require much space.
• Unlike the same manure, compost eliminates the risk of soil contamination (for example, potato scab), and there are no pest larvae in it.
• Minimum financial costs for the preparation of effective organic fertilizer.

Calculation of the required amount of compost

Fertilizer is prepared at the dacha in such a volume as to satisfy the needs for fertilizing the soil on your site. Therefore, whatever good compost no one was, no one needs his surplus. Few experienced gardeners they mistakenly believe that the more fertilizer is applied to the soil, the higher the crop yield will be. At the same time, such an aspect as the balance of the ecosystem is forgotten, which also implies optimal combination various chemical elements in the ground.

What the violation of this rule leads to is a separate issue. Suffice it to point out that in a number of cases, with an excess of certain fertilizers, the plant develops intensively, but in the "green", and its fruits do not reach the optimal size.

It makes no sense to give formulas and examples of calculations. Majority sizes summer cottages lie within only 5 - 7 acres, no more. If we take away the sectors occupied by various outbuildings (house, shed), paths and engineering structures(septic tank, swimming pool), then usable area and even less. As a rule, within 3.5 - 4.5. For feeding this dacha territory a 1.5 - 2 "square" compost pit is quite enough (at a depth of about one and a half meters).

The word "depth" should not be literally deciphered. It is desirable that the compost pit rises above the ground. Therefore, it is more correct to talk about the height of the structure. Deepening will only complicate the work, since you have to think about high-quality waterproofing the entire "bottom". Especially if ground water get close enough to the surface.

Location selection

Option number 3

A full-fledged pit is being equipped, the bottom and walls of which are poured concrete mortar. Making formwork is easy. The only plus is that such a compost pit is not striking, as it is located in the ground. The disadvantages are noted in relation to the brick structure.

And these options are not the only ones. For the competent arrangement of the compost pit, it is necessary to correctly determine its dimensions and ensure the strength of the walls of the bunker. And what to build them from is a personal matter of the owner of the cottage. For example, dig metal pipes(in the corners) and fit them with a fine mesh. The only difficulty is creating greenhouse effect. You will have to tightly cover the entire bunker - not only from above, but also from the sides.

What can be used as raw material for compost

Naturally, necessarily organic. But there are so many of them in any dacha that there will be no problems with finding raw materials for compost.

• Everything related to the concept of "wood and its waste" - sawdust, small chips, needles, chopped bark, leaves and branches. Here you can also add dried grass, straw.
• Fruits - cereals, fruits, berries. Naturally, it is necessary to reject those that have traces of lesions (worm, scab, and so on).
• Coffee grounds (leftovers), old tea leaves. When accumulated, they are not thrown away, but sent to the compost pit.
• Shredded fractions of paper products - cardboard, napkins, newspapers and so on.
• Pieces of fabrics, but only natural ones - linen, cotton, silk, wool.
• Wood ash.
• Manure. But definitely last year, not fresh!

What should not be loaded into a compost pit

• Tops (tomato, potato).
• Carcasses of dead rodents, domestic animals, birds.
• Ash coal.
• Glass, porcelain.
• Bones.
• Weed roots.
• Excrement of pets (cats, dogs).

For high quality compost experienced gardeners recommend running earthworms into the bunker. Well, finding them, especially if there is a farm near the dacha, will not be a problem. As an option - dig in a nearby landing. You don't need a lot - good conditions they multiply rapidly. By the way, summer residents-fishermen do just that. For them, the problem of finding worms does not exist.

Whichever option you choose, you need to know that ready compost always located at the bottom of the hopper. How to get it? You will need a "window" (door). Therefore, a concrete bin is not an entirely acceptable solution, and the compost in it is prepared immediately, in in full. The remaining options involve the systematic unloading of a certain amount. This means that it is possible to organize a cyclic process of its preparation, which is much more convenient, since we are talking about a summer house, and not massive agricultural / land.

The author believes that there are plenty of recommendations on how to make a compost pit. There is nothing difficult in this. But just installing a hopper is not the solution to the fertilizer problem. He needs some care. But this is a somewhat different topic.

Good luck building your compost pit, dear reader! And do not be afraid to "invent", since there is no hard standard for such a structure.

Before you start doing in the country do-it-yourself compost pit, it is worth considering, but why, in fact, do we need it?
The main functions of such a facility are the disposal of household organic waste, as well as the production of fertilizer for the garden and garden, unless of course you intend to simply plant green manure on your site to fertilize the soil.

Rules for the arrangement and operation of a compost pit

When choosing a place where we would like to make a composter, several very important points should be considered:

1. Distance to source drinking water: a well, a well, a stream, a reservoir should be at least 25 - 30 m.
2. Also, if the site has a slope, the pit should be located below the well. Such precautions are necessary so that the runoff of decaying waste cannot enter the drinking water.
3. It would not hurt to take into account the wind rose, so as not to annoy the neighbors too much.

In addition, I want to clarify that in open sunny areas, the contents of the pit can overheat greatly, then the composting process stops, so it is advisable to shade the structure with trees. It is better if the compost pit is located somewhere in the corner of the site, adjacent to a blank wall or fence.

Let's also decide what can and cannot be thrown into the compost pit.

Suitable for composting:

• Raw vegetables, fruits, berries, tea, cereals, coffee. Cleaning residues included.
• Hay, cut grass, straw.
• Leaves.
• Branches, bark, roots of shrubs of trees, slightly crushed.
• weeds.
• Wood ash.
• Needles.
• Napkins, cardboard, natural paper bags, shredded.
• Unpainted wood waste.
• Herbivore dung is second year.

Not to be used for composting:

• Bones.
• Excrement of domestic animals. They may contain helminth eggs.
• Insect pests and their eggs.
• Plants affected by diseases (tops of tomatoes with late blight, pumpkin and cucumbers with powdery mildew etc.).
• Plants from areas treated with herbicides.
• Inorganic waste: any plastic, iron, synthetic fabrics, rubber.

Non-compostable material should preferably be either incinerated or disposed of in cesspool if it is excrement.

Organic matter is broken down by microorganisms and earthworms. Therefore, it is not necessary to isolate all the walls of the pit that are below ground level. If you dig a hole 50 cm deep and enclose it with impenetrable material, the worms will not be able to get inside. They will have to be settled on their own. The rules, as you can see, are quite simple, and the benefits of following them are extremely great.

Compost pit device

The main thing to consider when constructing a compost pit is the need to provide good moisture and looseness for a quality composting process. How to do it - of great importance does not have.

The humidity of the compost heap can be maintained regular watering or cover with a film on top to create the effect of a steam room.

In order for the structure of the contents of the compost bin to be loose, it is necessary either to shake it up with a pitchfork from time to time, or to lay materials with different densities in layers.

The dimensions of the compost pit should be approximately as follows: width - about 1 - 1.5 m, length - 2 m, maximum height 1.2 - 1.5 m, it can be buried in the ground by about 0.2 - 0.4 m.

In this case, the design can be completely different and depends on the preferences of the owner.

Two section compost pit

If you do not use additional effective microorganisms, in addition to those present in the soil on the site, the overdrying and composting of organic matter will take approximately 2 years. For ease of use, you can make the design two-section:
in one section - what we put together this year, in the other - what is composted from the previous year.

When there is ready-made compost in the second section, we will take it out and lay it out on the beds where we want to improve saturate useful substances soil. compost pit it can be fenced on all sides like a box, but always with a material that will ensure the penetration of air, for example, wooden fences nailed at a distance from each other. So the content will not ban and publish bad smell. Such a do-it-yourself compost pit is built in about 1 to 2 days, depending on which fencing material is chosen.

Compost pit with free access at the bottom of the structure

This will be a good replacement for the first option - no need to split into sections. The heap fence starts at a level of 25 - 30 cm from the ground. At the bottom, ready-made compost accumulates, which, if necessary, can be easily removed with a shovel and used in the garden. Convenient and less hassle. Each time compost is taken from below, the contents of the heap will sink, occupying empty space, thereby being saturated with oxygen. You don’t have to specially transfer and loosen.

What should be the correct compost pit

If, after reading all this, you are still wondering: how to make a good compost pit, then here is your answer - do not do it at all.

Firstly, dragging grass and other organics back and forth, from the site to the pile, from the pile to the garden is an extra senseless work.

Secondly, formed during the composting process carbon dioxide, which is an indispensable plant nutrition, is mediocrely lost on a heap, unnerving you and your neighbors with its not too pleasant "ambergris".

If you are not afraid to be known as an eccentric, lay out organic residues right on the beds. There they will overheat remarkably, they will not emit an unpleasant odor, as, for example, in a closed pile. Microorganisms will multiply on their own, worms will also come, they know their job - and there is such an abundance.
Use cut grass as mulch. Even branches can be chopped and laid in paths between rows. Cleanings from fresh vegetables and fruits are also taken to the garden. Thus, you:

• Keep moisture in the beds;
• Feed plants directly with carbon dioxide;
• Prevent the germination of weeds in the beds;
• Prepare compost directly where it is needed.
• Prevent leaching of humus.

And most importantly, the work is less!

As you can see, the do-it-yourself compost pit I proposed is a very simple task. It does not require any additional effort or skills. Now it remains only to dispose of what is unsuitable for composting next to food products. I think you already guessed what it is ...

How to make a compost pit - every owner faces this question sooner or later suburban area. From this article you will learn how to competently equip a place for obtaining natural fertilizers.

Compost - effective remedy to improve soil fertility. This is known even to novice gardeners. But, unfortunately, not everyone knows how to equip a compost pit. There are many nuances in this case. And only a competent approach will allow "to kill two birds with one stone" - to dispose of household waste and lay the foundations for a rich harvest.

Choosing the right place

If you are puzzled over the question of how to properly make a compost pit, then the first thing you should take care of is choosing the right place.

As a rule, the compost heap is equipped for outbuildings, at the back of the site. Don't stir the pit too close to a drinking water source. Optimal Distance to him - 25 meters. The place should be shaded, because. straight sunlight slows down the recycling process. It is important to take into account the direction of the wind, it is unlikely that the neighbors will be delighted with the smell emitted by the future fertilizer.

Think about ease of access as well. Many people forget about this, and then they suffer with the laying of garbage and the sampling of humus. It is good if the surface of the earth is flat - stagnant water reduces the flow of oxygen, which will significantly extend the time of "cooking" the most valuable additive.

Have you chosen a place for a composter? Excellent! Clear the ground of sod and loosen it to a depth of 30 cm. This way you will create favorable conditions for the life of worms and other beneficial microorganisms that take an active part in processing.

About dimensions and design features

So, we figured out the place for the composter. And then it matures new question How big should a compost pit be? The size is determined by the principle of "two cycles". That is, the first half of the pit should be occupied by waste that has accumulated over 2 years, the second half by “young” compost (not older than 2 years).

It is important to understand that the larger the compost pit, the faster it heats up to the desired temperature (up to 60 degrees). If the pit is small, then, of course, it will also heat up, but it is unlikely to temperature indicators, in which all pathogenic flora and weeds die. Experts recommend laying compost heap with the following dimensions: height - at least 1.2 m, width - 1.5 m, length - 2 m.

Be sure to provide a removable cover for the composter. Do not cover the bottom with film, rubber, metal sheets or slate. They will prevent the passage of moisture upwards, which means that the compost will be dry. best floor for a compost pit - earthen.

Manufacturing options

Compost heaps can be of several types. Consider the arrangement options, and you choose the most convenient for you.

ordinary pit

"Compost for the lazy" is an ordinary shallow pit. First lay tree bark, hay or branches on the bottom. Next - plant and food residues. Cover up with black plastic wrap. After each dumping of new waste, cover it with grass. To be honest, this option cannot be called successful - the contents of the pit will not warm up enough, and a lot of effort will have to be spent on mixing. It is better to try and build something more efficient.

Wooden two-section composter

A wooden box immersed in the ground is the most common option. Dig a hole about 50-80 cm deep, 1.5-2 meters wide and 2-3 meters long. Dig in the support bars in the corners, stepping back from the edges of the pit 20 cm. Pipe sections will do a good job with this task. Pre-treat them with a bioprotective compound.

Assemble three walls of the box from the boards, providing ventilation holes. Install and align if necessary. Divide the composter in two with wooden shield. The first compartment is for the "old" compost, the second - for the "young". Screw on the front wall.

Cover the bottom with straw or tree bark. This will protect against the accumulation of excess fluid and ensure normal air exchange. The lid can be made from a sheet of plywood attached to the back wall with hinges. Process first wooden details impregnation that protects against moisture and insects, and then cover acrylic paint in two layers.

You can divide the compost pit not into two, but into three sections. The first compartment is for ready-made compost, the second is for ripening, the third is for laying new waste.

Most often, the composter is made of wood, but if desired, you can use slate, metal sheets or brick.

Composter with one section

If a two- or three-compost composter seems inconvenient to you, then you can make a pit with one compartment. Install a wooden box so that 30 cm remains between the ground and the edges. Ripe compost will be selected from this hole. New raw materials are laid from above, that is, there is no need to loosen the fertilizer. In principle, very convenient.

concrete pit

Those who want to make a compost pit once and not worry about it anymore should be advised to concrete "reservoir". Mark the area (approximately 2x3 meters) and dig a shallow trench (70-80 cm). Build formwork 10-12 cm thick around the perimeter of the future composter. Prepare the concrete and pour it into the formwork. After the final hardening, the formwork is disassembled. Put the waste in the pit and cover it with foil, metal mesh or wooden shields. That's all.

plastic containers

A modern interpretation of the traditional yama that needs some work. Plastic does not let air through, so you will have to make ventilation holes yourself. Doing this can be problematic. It is better to buy a ready-made plastic composter equipped with a lid, ventilation ducts and lower doors for laying out fertilizers. The volume may vary. On average - from 400 to 1000 liters. The cost varies from 2 to 10 thousand rubles.

When the work on arranging the compost pit is completed, you should think about how to use it correctly. After all, how quickly you get humus and how nutritious it will directly depend on this.

• from time to time "comb" the contents of the pit with a pitchfork. So you provide oxygen access and speed up the process of decay;
• do not forget to water the compost heap - dry waste does not decompose;
• the film that covers the pit will help speed up the “cooking” process;
• sometimes plant worms in a box and add decomposition-activating drugs (Compostin, Compostar, Baikal EM-1, etc.);
• stack raw materials in layers. Plant residues alternate with food waste, wet - with dry;
• speed up the decomposition process cow dung, as well as some plants (dandelion, chamomile, valerian, yarrow);
• do not compact the layers tightly, make sure that the contents are not too wet, too loose or, conversely, dry;
• dry material in the compost heap should be 5 times more than wet.

And finally, about what can be put in a composter and what cannot. By the way, this is the defining moment for getting good fertilizer. Plant residues are thrown into the compost pit - mowed grass, straw, tree bark, leaves, branches, wood ash. Food waste will also come in handy - tea leaves, peels of fruits and vegetables, eggshell, the remains of cereals and soups. Black and white newspapers, napkins, cardboard, old wool or cotton items will do.

To enrich the contents of the pit with nitrogen, from time to time it is necessary to add manure, bird droppings, bone meal, bean and pea stalks. Don't forget about superphosphates, dolomite flour and complex mineral fertilizers.

Do not bring in animal excrement, fats, bones, spoiled food, tomato and potato tops, weed seeds, herbicide-treated plants, inorganic debris (rubber, plastic, glass, synthetics).

Video: The device of a modern compost pit on a personal plot

Compost is a fertilizer made from organic raw materials, suitable for enriching the soil in flowerbeds, beds with vegetables and under fruit trees in the garden. He loosens clay soil and retains moisture in sandy soil.

Usually gardeners buy compost in garden shops. But with some effort and patience, you can also get "homemade" compost.

High quality compost is obtained from organic waste:

The more diverse the organic waste, the better the compost will turn out.

• fruits unsuitable for food (rotten), but not affected by diseases (berries, fruits, vegetables, cereals);
• used tea leaves and coffee grounds;
• straw and healthy plants(herbs, flowers);
• foliage, branches, bark, roots and ashes of trees and shrubs;
• sawdust;
• needles;
• small pieces of waste paper (napkins, shredded newspapers, packaging, cardboard);
• fragments of natural fabrics (cotton, linen, wool, silk);
• second-year manure of herbivorous farm animals (cows, horses).

It is forbidden to throw into the compost pit:

• excrement of dogs and cats;
• bones;
• insect pests (for example, beetles - dung and Colorado);
• potato and tomato tops;
• tops treated with chemical fertilizers;
• perennial rhizomatous weeds;
• coal ash;
• synthetic waste (rubber, plastic and cellophane, scrap metal).

Waste can simply be piled in a heap in the most inconspicuous corner of the site, or you can prepare a neat pit for them, which even guests will not be ashamed to show.

Making such a compost pit with your own hands is not great work. That's enough everywhere. available materials and a little patience.

Tools and materials for work

A compost bin is often constructed from planks or timber.

For this you will need:

• circular saw, electric jigsaw, circular saw or ordinary hacksaw - for cutting wood;
• chisel;
• screwdriver;
• roulette;
• spirit level (or level);
• garden shovel or drill;
• hammer and nails;
• screws (ideally galvanized);
• metallic profile;
• boards from any tree species;
• dye;
• doorknobs and latches.

To protect wood from moisture and insects:

• moisture resistant enamel;
• varnish with antifungal impregnation.

A compost pit with concrete-filled walls will serve you faithfully for a long time.

For the manufacture of concrete you will need:

• river sand;
• crushed stone or gravel;
• cement;
• water.

Sometimes you don’t want to spend a lot of time and effort on making a compost pit. In this case, it is easier to purchase ready-made containers and barrels for compost made of plastic. Such composters have an attractive appearance but also cost more.

Benefits of a plastic composter:

• a sealed container prevents leakage and, as a result, contamination of drinking water;
• thanks to the ventilation system, the water in the container does not stagnate.

When installing plastic tank be sure to add preparations to the raw materials that accelerate the process of decomposition of organic matter, or you can add earthworms to the future humus.

Step by step instructions for creating a hole

deep compost pit

Compost in such a pit matures longer, and it is more difficult to mix it, but sometimes this is the only possible option.

Digging a compost pit should be where, after heavy rains, water will not drain to the well. Decay products, once in water intended for drinking, will affect its taste and health safety.

deep hole better than those that the compost won't spoil general form plot, but in such a pit it takes longer to cook

In order for the amount of oxygen necessary for decomposition to be supplied to the organic mass, a hole is dug out as follows.

Step 1

They take out the soil no more than 1 m deep, 2 m long and 1.5 m wide. If you go too far with the depth of the pit, then it will be difficult to extract the ripened humus.

Step 2

20 cm retreat from each wall of the pit and dig four columns into the corners.

Step 3

The columns are connected with planks, which are fixed 5 cm apart so that all layers of the compost are freely supplied with oxygen. It turns out dug in a wooden box.

Do you want to plant flower beds for zoning the site? Learn to choose plants for.

Step 4

The finished pit is divided in half with a wooden shield, so that only one half is then filled.

Step 5

A layer of thick branches (10–15 cm), bark or straw is laid out at the bottom of the pit. The resulting drainage will lead excess moisture and allow the raw material at the bottom of the pit to ventilate.

The bottom and sides of the pit are not covered with anything so that they can freely penetrate into it earthworms helping to form humus.

It is important to maintain a certain level of humidity in the pit. To do this, do not forget to water the compost heap from a watering can as it dries and periodically loosen the humus. Cover the pile with cling film to create a sauna effect.

Now it remains to immerse suitable raw materials into the pit, from which first-class fertilizer will be obtained later.

Organic waste is dumped into one part of the compost pit. After a while, they are thrown to the other half. This contributes to the saturation of the contents of the pit with oxygen.

Concrete compost pit

The most durable compost pit is made of concrete. In such a hole cement mortar pour the side walls, which increases its cost.

A concrete compost pit is a durable structure that will last for decades.

Step 1

Need to be removed upper layer soil and dig a rectangular depression 3 m long, 2 m wide and 60–80 cm deep.

Step 2

Now we make formwork and fill the walls with a solution of crushed stone, sand and cement.

To do this, pour gravel into a ten-liter bucket and gradually pour water into it. If the bucket contains 5 liters of water (half the volume of the bucket), then it is necessary to adhere to a ratio of 2: 1 (for a full bucket of gravel - 5 liters of sand).

Do not overdo it with water, otherwise numerous pores form on the surface of the concrete. When pouring walls with concrete, it should be borne in mind that the most convenient compost pits are obtained by dividing the space into two sections.

Step 3

We cover the compost pit with a chain-link mesh or a cover made of a metal frame.

If you decide to do wooden lid, then several holes can be drilled in it for ventilation.

The main thing is that the lid can be easily removed - the contents of the compost pit will have to be mixed at least once a week. One wall must also be made easily removable. Otherwise, difficulties will arise when extracting the finished compost.

Sometimes they do not dig a hole for compost, but prepare it in special boxes.

Three-section compost bin

The most rational option for storing compost will be a box divided into three specialized sections:

• compartment for laying waste;
• department for turning humus;
• compartment for mature compost.

You can make such a box from wooden planks on your own in just a few steps.

Step 1

We bury 8 wooden bars in the ground. To protect the tree from decay, we first lubricate with tar, old engine oil or fuel oil those parts of the pegs that will be in the soil.

We install eight wooden posts, having previously processed them

You can attach four side bars to the fence - then you will not need to dig four holes under them, and the back wall of the box can be omitted.

Step 2

We make partitions by connecting the pegs with boards. It is necessary to nail the boards so that gaps are provided between them for the free passage of air.

The front part of the first two compartments of the future box must be sheathed with boards to the middle of the height in order to then make small doors in them. In the last section, the door will be large, so we nail only one board from below.

Step 3

Partitions and end parts of the front and rear wall we strengthen by nailing the crossbars. We attach the doors, which at the same time will be the lid.

In front of the box we hang two small doors and one large one.

So that the box itself does not begin to decompose and does not become part of the future fertilizer, the wooden parts must first be treated with an impregnating solution that protects against moisture and insects. Impregnation can be bought at the store. Choose a non-toxic agent.

Step 4

We cover the box treated with impregnation in two layers of paint (the second - after the first has completely dried). You can choose the color of the paint according to your taste - you just need to combine it with the overall landscape design.

When choosing a paint, keep in mind that the box will constantly be affected Sun rays and temperature fluctuations. Apply paint in 2 layers

Step 5

We attach accessories to the box - handles and latches. The box is ready.

Compost storage facilities are built, as a rule, for several years. Therefore, it makes sense to concrete the bottom of the box, and line it with drainage from above. You can put plastic shields on the bottom.

You will appreciate that the effort of making a compost pit or box was well spent when you feel that you have stopped spending physical strength for the removal of large volumes of garbage from your personal plot. Now organic waste is enough to add to the ennobled compost heap.

If you keep an eye on the compost pit wisely (sift the fertilizer in time, add new raw materials to it), then you will have fresh compost all year round, and you will not be forced to prepare the starter again.

For any gardener, compost is the best and most affordable fertilizer, because it can be prepared on their own using organic waste.

There are many options for preparing a compost heap, I must say that the fantasy of our summer residents knows no bounds. One of my good friends once said that she does not throw anything away from the site, everything goes into action and feeds the earth.

Passing by the plots, you can see a wide variety of examples of closing a compost heap or pit, the most different variants, starting from wooden boards, ending with furniture parts, fine mesh netting, slate and metal sheets.

In order to competently prepare high-quality compost, it is not enough to dump everything that comes to hand in one place, you need to know some rules, which we will get acquainted with in this article. Experienced gardeners shared their skills in preparing compost, and this material was written based on their experience.

We know that during the summer season accumulates a large number of salvage from organic waste, which includes food debris, and weeds and mowed grass, which is constantly removed from beds and lawns.

All this waste must be disposed of in one specific place, in a compost heap, which in two to three years will give you a high-quality product in the form of an excellent fertilizer.

Along the way, this will help get rid of unnecessary plant materials, your site will be clean and tidy, the waste will not have to be taken far beyond the garden.

The decomposition of plant waste in a natural way takes about 20 months, but if the process is artificially accelerated, it is possible to achieve a result in three months.

What you need to know about compost

Nutrient fertilizer is able to reach the condition if it is warm and humid. Prepare a place for its "production", provide a bunch of all necessary requirements- the main task of the gardener. A sufficient amount of oxygen will allow you to get not a fetid heap of waste, but a real universal fertilizer.

• It is necessary to make sure that the main part of the pile is located above ground level. So the contents will be perfectly warmed up, provided with air. It will be convenient to water and loosen. The depth of the pit should be no more than half a meter, and the surface part up to a meter. In width, the ideal parameters will be: 1.5x2 m.
• If there is a source from which drinking water is used: a well, a well, a spring, a territorial gap of at least 20 m should be taken into account. For greater certainty, if the site slopes, make the pit lower.
• Close up a pile of waste should be away from the house or recreation area, as an unpleasant smell will spoil the air and mood not only for the owners of the site, but also for neighbors. To this issue you need to approach responsibly, and choose a place that would suit everyone.
• To prevent the pile from drying out, do not place it in a sunny area. Well, if it were in partial shade, then the moisture necessary for the decay process would not evaporate quickly.
• In no case should the pit be close to fruit-bearing trees, this is fraught with their death.

Important! You should not make the bottom of the pit, from any material: slate, iron, film. The compost heap should have an earthen bottom, so moisture from the earth will rise up and the contents will not dry out. For walls, any of the listed materials is suitable.

What can be added to the compost heap

Good, high-quality compost will be obtained by laying the following components in a pile:

• fallen leaves, needles, plant roots and small branches and stems;
• cut grass and weeds;
• manure and litter, the age of which is more than two years;
• peeling vegetables, fruits, berries, peels of any fruits;
• leftover food, coffee and tea;
• hay, straw, sawdust and other small wood waste;
• wood ash;
• paper waste, cardboard.

Important! Grass, which is laid in large quantities, is best sprinkled with soil.

What is contraindicated for a compost pit:

• any objects of inorganic origin made of plastic, polyethylene, metal and synthetics;
• bones;
• stems from potatoes and tomatoes, due to late blight infection;
• large branches and mature seeds of weeds.

Compost heap options

There are a large number of options, and each gardener chooses the most acceptable and effective for himself.

A simple pile of layers of waste

First, decide on a place, and start laying organic matter in layers, alternating it with manure and food waste. After the hill grows a meter, make indentations in it, pour a special liquid into them for the fastest maturation of the compost.

Such preparations are sold in gardening centers and stores, they contain bacteria that, when they enter the organic environment, begin to work and process it.

If you do not forget to loosen the waste, then the compost will ripen in three months. That is, laying a pile in the spring, by the end of the summer you will be with compost.

For those who do not want to make a stationary facility for the production of compost - this is perfect option. It is desirable that there are several such places, then you can achieve constant replenishment of your site with fertilizer.

A hole dug in the ground

AT this case, is also simple. A hole is dug in the soil, the size of which depends on your appetites. Branches, the remains of bark, straw, hay are placed at the bottom, then a layer is laid, consisting of the remains of food and plants. Next is a layer of manure, and a repetition of the vegetable layer.

In such a structure, the temperature will not reach high performance, so the pit is covered with a film. This option is suitable for those who are not in a hurry, as the compost will not ripen soon. But there are also advantages - a simple device and a small area.

Box of bars, slate, boards or metal

This method is used by many gardeners, and is 100% justified. However, the preparation of the box will require small material costs and some effort to equip it.

• First of all, at the site of the future compost pit, the soil is removed, about 50 cm.
• Along the entire perimeter of the recess, bars or pegs should be driven in.
• Next, a fence is made for which any material is suitable: shields, bars, boards, mesh, polycarbonate, metal sheets, slate of any shape. The main thing is that the material does not bend or break under the weight of the waste.
• The height above the soil surface should correspond to one meter. This height will allow you to easily loosen and mix the contents.
• From above, the structure is closed with a film or plywood sheet.

Wooden box with a door

For convenience, you can build a door in the box, at a distance of 50 cm from the ground. This option allows you to choose the finished compost from the bottom, while the top layer settles.

Ease of use, as well as the ability to take required amount ready-made fertilizer - these are the main advantages of boxes with sliding or lifting doors.

Pit made of concrete or brick

This design is durable, it will require significant costs and labor. A plot for a compost heap is marked out taking into account the impossibility of transferring to another place.

• The soil is selected to a depth of 70-80 cm;
• It is necessary to make formwork around the entire perimeter of the pit;
• After the concrete is mixed, it is poured into the formwork, 10-12 cm thick;
• Wooden formwork is removed as the concrete dries;
• The concrete pit is filled with waste and covered with a film or wooden shield.

Important! It is very important to have two or more sections in each of the proposed facilities. One will serve as a compartment for fresh waste, and the second is intended for last year's compost. Thus, every year you will have a nutrient substrate for plants and soil.

Other Compost Heap Options

The most advanced gardeners, who have the means to significantly facilitate their work, purchase ready-made biocontainers for the production of compost. They use preparations with an accelerated action for the processing of organic matter based on special bacteria: Baikal EM-1, Compostin, Embionik.

Many gardeners breed California worms, these creatures are extraordinarily efficient and each works like a mini composting plant.

Remember, full-fledged compost requires air, water, heat and clean organic matter. Only with these components you will receive high-quality and free fertilizer.