How to make a comfortable place for compost. Composters for giving: their models and application. How to tell if compost is ready

The better the quality of the soil, the richer the crop grown on this land will be. But it happens that the initial data is not very good, and you have to fertilize the soil. To do this, you can use various fertilizers, but it is best to make a compost pit, which will become a source of environmentally friendly material. Consider how a do-it-yourself compost pit should be made: manufacturing options and materials suitable for this purpose.

In order to understand how to properly make a compost pit, you first need to figure out what it is used for. Typically, a compost pit is used to dispose of organic waste, which, as a result of the decay process, turns into organic fertilizer. There are many design options and each owner can only choose the most suitable option for themselves.

A compost heap does a great job of utilizing grass clippings and fallen leaves. Under the influence of time, moisture and microorganisms, all this turns into a fertilizer that can be used to grow any type of crop, both in gardens and in the garden.

Making a compost heap of organic fertilizers with your own hands is not difficult at all, especially since there are many ideas for self-implementation that can be used as a basis. You can make a compost pit yourself using pallets, which are usually used for transporting and storing building materials. They can be bought at a fairly low price, or quite possibly just found on your own site.

How to make a compost pit in the country: choosing a location

Speaking about the arrangement of the compost heap, one cannot but mention the importance of its correct location. First of all, the structure must be sufficiently removed from residential buildings. In addition, the place of its installation should be well blown by the wind in order to avoid stagnation of air and the concentration of an unpleasant odor emanating from it. In addition, access to the compost must be ensured so that the process of adding raw materials or removing ready-made fertilizer takes place as comfortably as possible.

Helpful advice! In order for the decay process to proceed faster, it is recommended to periodically mix the layers inside the pile. Therefore, even at the stage of planning and arrangement, it is worth considering how this can be done.

In addition, the following criteria for selecting a site suitable for a compost pit should be taken into account:

• the chosen site should be located at a sufficiently large distance from any sources of drinking water, such as a well or well. The distance between these objects must be at least 25 m;
• if the site is not located evenly, but under a slope, then you need to make a compost pit below the water level (preferably at the lowest point of the site). This will prevent rotting runoff and clean water from entering;
• you should inquire in advance about the most frequent direction of the wind, since the pit often becomes a source of a rather strong and unpleasant odor, and can cause discomfort to both you and your neighbors;
• it is worth taking care that there is not only a free approach to the pit, but also enough space to be able to bring waste or remove ready-made compost using a wheelbarrow.

Helpful advice! For a compost pit, it is desirable to choose a shaded place, since the sun's rays adversely affect the process of decay, significantly slowing down the composting process.

What can and cannot be put in a compost pit

In order for the fertilizer obtained as a result of decay to be of high quality and bring benefits to plants, and not harm, each summer resident needs to familiarize himself in advance with the list of those products that may or may not be added to compost. So, for composting are great:

• grass, weeds, leaves, hay, straw, etc.;
• berries, fruits and any peelings from them (raw);
• waste from wood products that have not been painted;
• paper products (napkins, bags, cardboard) in crushed form;
• waste from the preparation of tea, coffee or cereals;
• branches and roots of trees after grinding;
• needles;
• herbivore manure (biennial only);
• wood ash.

Important! The percentage of cleanings from products such as potatoes and tomatoes in the compost should not exceed 15-20%.

• any plants that have been affected by pests;
• plants exposed to diseases such as powdery mildew, late blight, etc.;
• excrement of domestic animals, as they can be infected with helminth eggs;
• bones and leftovers from meat products. They will provoke an extremely unpleasant odor, and will also become food for rats;
• inorganic waste - plastic, rubber, synthetic fabrics and metal;
• plants that have been treated with herbicides;
• the remains of cabbage, the rotting of which provokes an extremely strong and unpleasant odor.

As for the composting of weeds, experts recommend putting them in a separate pile, which is covered with a film on top. So, the risk that the plants will take root again is excluded and one can count on their death with one hundred percent probability.

If, however, weeds are added to the general heap, then often one has to deal with the fact that perennial plants take root, especially if, as a result of regular watering or rain, the humidity is quite high.

Important! To speed up the process of decay of waste, it is recommended to pre-grind them. This is especially true for elements such as branches, roots and paper products.

Having figured out what can and cannot be put in a compost pit, it remains only to familiarize yourself with the rules for caring for waste in order to ensure that it rots as efficiently as possible. Moreover, the duration of the period during which compost will be formed directly depends on the correctness of the care carried out:

• Humidity is the most important indicator that affects the decay of waste and the formation of compost. In order to maintain the desired level, it is recommended to periodically water a bunch of watering cans. At the same time, it is important that in the end it turns out wet, but not wet, since an abundance of water will adversely affect the viability and activity of bacteria;
• once a month, you need to carefully stir up the pile, thus ensuring the access of oxygen. This allows the waste not only to rot, but to burn out. At the same time, if there is no way to completely dig everything up, you can use a pitchfork and pierce a bunch in as many places as possible;
• to accelerate the maturation process of compost, the addition of nitrogen is required, which is found in large quantities in the green parts of plants, as well as in slurry.

The formation of high-quality compost usually takes 1-1.5 years. During this time, almost any waste and residues will fully decompose. The readiness of the compost can be recognized visually and by smell. The finished mixture is a crumbly mass of brown color and has the smell of forest land.

Compost pit: what is it and why is it needed

The issue of compost application is one of the most popular. After all, not every summer resident knows how and why to use the resulting mixture, and how great its benefits are. In fact, you can fertilize the soil with compost for almost any plant. Cucumbers, peppers, zucchini and pumpkins respond best to such top dressing. The result can be seen already in the next harvest season - the fruits grow large, have a bright and rich color, taste and aroma are well pronounced.

But there are also plants for which compost is not so useful. For example, root crops, tomatoes, melons and watermelons should not be abundantly fertilized in this way, as this leads to the fact that the yield decreases, and the amount of green mass, on the contrary, increases.

Strawberries respond well to compost, especially if you first cut it “at the root” and overlay it with a semi-decomposed composition. Then all this needs to be watered, and all that remains is to wait for new fresh foliage, as well as a bountiful harvest next season.

DIY compost pit: manufacturing options and design requirements

In order to properly build a compost pit, you need to understand how the compost heap should be arranged. There are many options for making your own hands, but first of all, you should pay attention to the fact that it should consist of three parts. In this case, you need to install 8 support posts, each of which must be processed with a protective agent.

Helpful advice! Machine oil, fuel oil or even tar can be used as a protective composition for posts.

A fence can be used as a fence on one of the sides, and boards are better suited for the rest. Partitions are constructed from them, in which holes for ventilation are necessarily left. This contributes to the process of decay. Also be sure to install a door that allows you to access the compost.

Making a compost pit in the country with your own hands involves ensuring the proper level of ventilation and at the same time protecting the contents from precipitation. So that the compost heap does not turn into a swamp, it must be covered with a special lid of a suitable size during the rainy season. And if the weather conditions are not too severe, then it is quite acceptable to use plastic wrap for this purpose.

Another option is to use construction pallets that are pre-disassembled. Using a circular machine, the boards can be divided into individual elements, and then assembled from them into a suitable structure. In this case, it is better to fasten the boards vertically. The front board can be fixed with adhesive. To give stability to such a structure, it is necessary to use the building level and trim the lower slats.

It is also important that the height of the walls of a homemade composter be such that it is convenient for a person of any height to add, turn and remove compost.

Interesting! You can pay attention to the designs of compost pits made according to Finnish technology. In this case, some design features are of interest, for example, when you extract humus from one compartment, it is automatically filled with raw materials from the next one.

DIY compost pit: manufacturing options, photo examples

The type of compost pit is determined based on several factors. One of them is the installation method. Consider all the existing options:

• allocation of a certain place for organizing a compost pit. At the same time, a foundation pit is initially prepared, which is very similar to a well, but at the same time has a smaller depth. The walls of the pit are additionally strengthened to prevent shedding of the soil and are sheathed with an indent of 20-25 cm from the bottom. This distance is necessary in order to provide the microorganism with free access to waste;
• another option is to install a special container on the garden plot, designed to collect waste and process it into compost. This method allows you to get the finished product at any time. This design is based on a pit with formwork, as well as a special box made of boards. When implementing this option, it is extremely important to pay due attention to the organization of ventilation;
• a do-it-yourself compost heap is the easiest way to solve the problem. To do this, it is enough to make a substrate consisting of sand, gravel and dry grass. Waste is simply stacked on top, which over time will begin to rot.

Related article:

Detailed construction technology of structures: soil preparation, frame manufacturing, its installation and filling.

You can make a compost bin with your own hands using many different technologies and instructions. The proposed designs may differ in the materials that are required for work, dimensions, properties and ease of use.

Helpful advice! Regardless of the type of structure chosen, before starting the laying of raw materials inside the structure, it is necessary to thoroughly loosen the bottom and install ventilation holes.

DIY compost bin: manufacturing options and instructions

Before making a compost pit with your own hands, it is advisable to consider as many options and designs as possible that can be used for this purpose. We will analyze in detail the instructions for making the most popular boxes made from various materials.

Garden compost bin: features of installation and operation

A garden composter may well be presented in the form of a large box, divided into several sections. Usually they make two or three compartments, but experts strongly recommend stopping at the option with three sections, since each of them has its own purpose: the first one is used for laying waste, the second one is for waste ripening, and the third one stores ready-made compost.

Depending on the individual wishes of the owner, the composter can be stationary or mobile (move on wheels). In this case, the recommended height of the box should not exceed 1 meter, and the size of each section should be about 1-1.5 meters.

Important! All wooden elements must be treated with a special protective compound, designed to provide the material with reliable protection against harmful insects, as well as moisture.

To make a compost bin with your own hands, you need to follow the following procedure:

1. 8 wooden blocks are dug into the ground;
2. With the help of boards, also previously opened with a protective compound, partitions are constructed. To do this, they are attached to supports at a certain distance from each other.
3. In the front part, two compartments should be sheathed only to the middle, and only one lower board is nailed to the third. Doors are mounted on the first two from above.
4. The back and end parts are completely sheathed.
5. The entire structure is covered with two layers of moisture-resistant paint.
6. Finally, handles, latches, etc. are attached.

At the bottom of such a box, drainage must necessarily be laid, which may consist, for example, of dry tree branches. Immediately after this, you can proceed directly to the laying of waste inside the structure.

How to make a compost pit in the country using wooden boards

A compost pit is an excellent solution, if necessary, not to spoil the appearance of the site with the appearance of a pile of waste. The formation of fertilizer in such a design takes much longer, and in order for the process to proceed as correctly and efficiently as possible, it is important to take care of the proper arrangement and ensure access to the right amount of oxygen in advance.

Work procedure:

1. First of all, it is necessary to dig a compost pit, the width of which will be 1.5 m, the length is 2 m, and the depth is about 1 meter.
2. In the corners, you need to dig in wooden blocks, observing an indent from the walls of 20 cm on each side.
3. In increments of 5 cm, boards are attached to these posts.
4. The resulting box is divided into two parts using a wooden shield.

The bottom of the compost pit is filled with a ten-centimeter layer of tree bark, branches and straw. Such a mixture will take on the role of drainage, which will remove excess moisture and additionally ventilate the raw materials.

Initially, only one of the compartments should be filled with waste. Then, when one is half full, the compost must be transferred to the second compartment. This procedure will allow you to enrich it with oxygen as much as possible.

Important! The bottom and sides of the composter do not need to be covered with anything so that earthworms can freely get inside, which take an active part in the waste processing process.

How to make a slate compost bin

Slate is a durable material that is great for creating a structure designed to collect and process organic waste into compost. The procedure for creating a suitable design consists of several stages:

• choosing a suitable location and taking measurements to determine the appropriate size of the pit;
• according to the marks, a not too large recess is dug, in the corners of which supports are installed, which can be used as boards or metal pipes;
• slate sheets are installed along the perimeter of the pit;
• using the same sheets, the resulting container is divided into several parts (two or three).

The use of this design is carried out in accordance with all the same recommendations that are given for compost pits made of wood.

How to make a concrete compost pit in the country

With a little more time and attention given to the process of arranging a compost pit, as a result, it can last several decades without any problems. To do this, it is enough to concrete it. You can do this in the following way:

• you need to dig a hole about 80 cm deep, 2 m wide and 3 m long;
• make a formwork inside the pit;
• then you need to prepare a solution consisting of sand, gravel and cement. To do this, pour 5 liters of water into a bucket and add 5 kg of sand and cement to it so that the ratio of dry components is 3: 1;
• the resulting solution is poured into the formwork;
• using wooden boards and a chain-link mesh (a metal frame is also suitable), a cover is being built for the pit.

It is very important that in the case of using boards for mounting the cover, there should be a distance between the elements necessary for normal ventilation.

Compost pit using Finnish technology: the secrets of mounting the structure

The main requirement for structures made according to Finnish technology is compliance with certain dimensions. The height and width of the box must be the same and be 1 m. This is extremely important, because in a smaller box the raw material will simply dry out, turning not into compost, but into dust. Large sizes are unacceptable for another reason - in this case, there is a risk of burning the contents from too high a temperature.

For the manufacture of such a structure, it is best to use wood. Slate in this case is not a very suitable option, since structures made from it are characterized by a longer period of waste decomposition. Again, a cheap and at the same time quite convenient option is a Finnish pallet compost pit.

Algorithm for assembling a compost pit using Finnish technology:

1. From wood pre-treated with antiseptic agents, a box frame of the desired size is assembled.
2. Then the finished frame is sheathed with boards. The boards are tightly placed only on the partitions separating the compartments. On the side walls, the boards should be located with an indent of 1 cm.
3. The back wall of the structure is also sewn up with boards at a distance of 1 cm.
4. The bottom of the box is covered using a slab. At the same time, it is also important to maintain some distance between the elements so that excess liquid can be effectively discharged.
5. In the lower part of the front wall of the structure, a small door is equipped, the height of which is usually 30 cm. It is fixed using ordinary door hinges.
6. The roof of the structure is made gable, while one of the slopes is attached to hinges so that it simultaneously acts as a door, making it possible to fill waste inside.

Interesting! In one box, the size of which is 1 × 1 m, you can prepare an amount of compost sufficient to fertilize a plot of land of 5-7 acres.

Compost pit-bio toilet: what is it?

Another special type of compost pit is a dry closet, which is able to turn human waste products into compost. It is a structure consisting of two containers, the volume of each of which is 80 liters.

The use of this type of dry closet is as follows: after visiting the toilet, you need to turn a special handle, which is responsible for supplying a portion of a special mixture consisting of peat and sawdust. Thanks to this mechanism, the mixture is distributed evenly and falls asleep the waste that has got inside.

It is quite possible to use such a dry closet composter for the disposal of not too much food waste, simply throwing it inside and falling asleep with a dry mixture. When the first container is completely filled, it must be moved aside and replaced with the second one, which can be used in the same way. At this time, the first container will contain the compost mixture, completely ready for use.

Important! The compost obtained in such a composter will be very concentrated. This must be taken into account, and before introducing it into the soil, it is necessary to dilute the mixture with soil, sand or peat.

Criteria for choosing a ready-made composter for giving

At the same time, an increasing number of owners of suburban areas are striving to move away from the use of home-made structures, giving preference to purchased models. Consider what advantages and disadvantages ready-made designs have, and what parameters you need to pay special attention to before making a purchase.

In most cases, preference is given to simple and convenient composters that are easy to assemble and operate on their own. But since the number of offers on the modern market is extremely large, it can be really difficult to decide on the most suitable option on your own. As a guide, experts recommend using certain criteria, since models can be:

• collapsible or solid;
• with temperature sensor;
• with a special device that allows you to loosen the contents;
• with a mesh instead of a bottom, which provides protection against rodents;
• various shapes and sizes.

Composters also differ in the material that was used for manufacturing. So, plastic is the most popular today, because it has a low weight, which allows you to move it around the site without problems, and its service life is extremely long. If the structure is planned as stationary, then you can consider the option of acquiring a metal composter. Wooden models can also be found on sale, but they are not very common due to their short service life and exposure to external factors.

How to choose and buy a compost pit: an overview of the most popular brands and models

As examples, we can consider several composters that are most popular and have received many positive reviews from users.

Composter L&T Globe: features and specifications

This model is highly valued by permanent residents of country houses, since it can be used throughout the year, and not every product can boast of this. The L&T Globe was developed by Finnish specialists who took into account the harsh weather conditions of the local climate. This allows the composter to function without problems even in the most severe winters.

Another advantage of this model is the absence of small and heavy parts, so the operation of the device is quite simple. The working volume of the container is 310 liters, and durable polyethylene was used as a material for the manufacture. In order for the system to function even in the cold season, a 15 mm thermal insulation layer was provided, which allows maintaining the optimum temperature inside.

Due to the small height of this composter, a person of absolutely any height can fill and empty it. Moreover, for even more comfort, the design provides a removable top.

Thus, all these design features make it possible to create the most favorable environment for efficient waste composting. The microclimate, which is maintained inside the tank, promotes the growth and development of microorganisms that can process waste. The developers did not forget about the ventilation system, which is presented in the form of drainage holes in the bottom of the composter.

Important! The ventilation system of this model can be used in two modes: summer/winter. It is important to make the switch in a timely manner, using a shutter specially provided for this.

Bulbeo composter: features and benefits

This model is the development of Italian specialists, which exists in domestic markets in two versions that differ in size (700 and 900 liters). Initially, this model was intended exclusively for the processing of plant waste, but, as practice shows, it also copes well with the composting of other organic waste.

This composter belongs to collapsible models and consists of separate parts that are simply assembled and, if necessary, disassembled again. This allows you to rearrange the container from one place to another and even transport it. Moreover, when disassembled, this design takes up very little space and can easily fit in the trunk of an ordinary car.

Among the main advantages of this choice are:

• the ability to get free access to the structure from six sides;
• it is convenient to take out the finished compost thanks to the hinged doors;
• on the site, this model looks quite aesthetically pleasing, because it resembles a flowering bud in shape;
• discreet dark green color allows you to organically fit the structure into any landscape design.

Durable plastic is used as a material for this model, which provides reliable protection of the contents from wind and strong temperature changes. According to the developers, the rounded shape of the walls contributes to the maturation of the compost.

Of course, there are also ventilation holes that provide access to the required amount of oxygen. Anyone can easily assemble this model, because it does not require any tools or additional fasteners. The finished structure weighs only 19 kg, and its height is 885 mm.

Compost pit products: features and benefits of use

Having figured out how to make a compost pile, many expect that they will soon be able to use the nutrient fertilizer made in it. But the reality is that the natural maturation of compost can last up to 2 years. Of course, you can just be patient and wait. But you can go the other way by buying a special tool that promotes the maturation of compost and speeds up this process.

Interesting! The question of the use of excipients is especially relevant for those regions of the country where the warm period is short. If warm weather lasts only 2-3 months, then the compost ripening period has to be reduced artificially.

So, there are several drugs that are well suited for this purpose and are recommended not only by experts, but also by real users. They all have different names but, in general, the principle of their action is the same. As an example, consider the Tamir tool.

Tamir is an extremely complex drug, which includes a whole complex of microorganisms that in the natural environment are responsible for ensuring the decomposition of organic debris and waste. Due to the high concentration of these bacteria, the composting process is many times faster, and after 2-3 weeks, full maturation occurs.

It is worth noting that the compost obtained in this way is not completely decomposed waste and is somewhat different from the usual consistency. But its final decomposition will occur directly in the soil, which will bring even greater benefits to plants.

Important! It is believed that compost obtained as a result of the action of auxiliary preparations, as a fertilizer, is many times more useful than that which was obtained naturally. Therefore, answering the common question whether it is possible to use funds for compost pits, the answer is unequivocal - not only possible, but even necessary.

All funds of this type are used according to the following technology:

• if the heap has not yet been formed, then the drug is added on top of each new layer, after which it is all poured with water;
• in the already finished heap, you need to make a recess to the full height, into which the drug and water are added.

Other ways to speed up the maturation of the compost heap

In addition to complex preparations, other ways can be used to stimulate the processing of organic waste and the maturation of compost in the pit. Let's consider each of them in more detail:

• the use of rotted manure, which is quite capable of replacing biochemical preparations intended for composting. At the same time, it is forbidden to use fresh manure, as it can become a source of not only helminth eggs, but also weed seeds, pathogens, etc.;
• a solution made from ordinary yeast. To prepare it, you need 1 liter of water and about 1 tablespoon of dry yeast. To this is added 200 grams of sugar (1 cup). Such a solution is poured into the recesses made in the compost heap;
• herbal infusion. To improve the effect, it is mixed with chicken manure or slurry in a ratio of 5:2. It is important to know that the amount of nitrogen contained in fresh bird droppings is much greater than in manure, which means that the ratio should be different.

Helpful advice! In order to regularly get bird droppings into the compost heap naturally, you can install a feeder above it. This will greatly facilitate and speed up the process.

The methods of accelerating maturation also include artificial moistening of raw materials, its tedding and other measures designed to create the most comfortable microclimate for composting.

How to arrange a compost pit in the country with your own hands

Whatever design is chosen for making compost, it is unlikely that its appearance will turn out to be attractive enough in the end. Most likely, no one will want to look at the compost pit, so it will be useful to think about how you can use the original design to improve its appearance.

The problem of masking the compost pit is especially relevant for small plots, since almost the entire territory is in plain sight. Although it happens that even for spacious plots, the owners use various design strategies to give the compost pit a more attractive look. So, in order to hide such an object, you can use:

• camouflage with plants and hedges;
• artificial decorations and stationary fences.

Works related to the manufacture of artificial fences are necessarily carried out in an open area located at some distance from the location of the compost pit. This is necessary in order to make it more convenient to work and to be able to move freely without being subjected to discomfort from the smell emitted by the heap.

The main requirement for such a fence is that it should hide the entire site from the eyes of guests and owners. That is, the compost heap should be completely hidden behind it, and the appearance of the fence should be as attractive as possible and be in harmony with the environment.

Much longer and somewhat more difficult to create hedges for this purpose. But they look much more natural and elegant. The main thing is to pay attention to the choice of a suitable plant, so that in the end the hedge is not too bulky and lush, and does not break the overall structure of the site.

Helpful advice! You can use light translucent screens entwined with vines as a fence. They do an excellent job with the task, and at the same time do not take up much space, so they are quite suitable for both large and small areas.

Best ideas for decorating a silo

Other elements, such as special screens or screens, can also be used to mask the place where the compost heap is located. Bamboo fences have proven to be excellent. Plants also look good if carefully planted in a row.

At the same time, it is strictly forbidden to equip a compost pit directly under fruit trees, as this can lead to their death. Between the compost and plants you need to maintain some distance.

The following design methods are the most popular:

• fruit trees and berry bushes planted in a row;
• potted gardens, placed on several levels to hide the entire structure;
• installation of a small architecture object: a gazebo or a fenced barbecue (of course, in this case, you should make sure that the unpleasant smell of decaying waste does not interfere);
• flower beds with tall plants;
• supporting wall.

Separately, it is worth noting the masking of compost heaps if a plastic container was used for them. In this case, it is not necessary to completely mask it. You can use it as a decoration of the site by painting it in a bright color and planting beautiful flowers around. You can draw any pattern on such a container, thus giving it originality.

It is easiest to work with small compost pits, which can be hidden with an abundance of flowers or even shrubs. Speaking of which, a compost yard is a great place to experiment with growing new varieties of annuals.

You can clearly see how do-it-yourself composters are made and designed for summer cottages by watching tutorials and detailed instructions. It is enough to decide which design is best suited in a particular case, as well as take into account your own individual requirements and wishes. Otherwise, there will be no problems, since there are as many options for do-it-yourself compost pits as there are ready-made models.

How to make a compost pit with your own hands: video instruction

Any land plot needs periodic fertilizer. And what could be better than high-quality compost? Buying it and then bringing it to the site is a long and expensive task. Why not produce this valuable fertilizer directly on your own land, because all conditions have been created for this? During the warm season, a lot of organic and plant waste accumulates on the site, which must be disposed of. It turns out that it is possible to combine the cleaning of the site from waste, and the production of compost from them. Let's take a look at how a compost pit can be built with your own hands, what is needed for this, and how to avoid elementary mistakes in the production of fertilizers.

The compost pit on the land plot is designed for laying all kinds of plant and organic residues, waste, and surpluses of various products. Laid in layers, these components gradually decompose, turning into a high-quality fertilizer. The question arises: how to build a compost pit with your own hands so that fertilizer is obtained in it during the season? To do this, you need to make some efforts to help the compost ripen faster.

With proper care, you can get ready-made compost in 3 months. If the pit is not given special attention, then the process of waste decomposition will continue for about two years.

Compost bin requirements

For normal and rapid maturation of compost, it needs heat, the presence of oxygen and moisture. How to make a compost pit correctly so that its contents turn into high-quality fertilizer, and the heap itself does not harm plantings and people on the site? To do this, you should familiarize yourself with some of the requirements for such structures:

• The compost heap should mostly rise above the soil level. Thanks to this, the pile warms up better, the convenience of its loosening and watering is ensured. It is recommended to deepen the pit by about 50 cm, leaving barriers above the soil surface of about 1 m. The ideal width of the structure is 1.5 m, and its length is 2 m;
• If there is a source of drinking water on the site, for example, a well, a well or a spring, then the distance from it to the pit should not be less than 25 m;
• It is advisable to place the pit in a place that will be removed from the house or gazebo. In this case, the unpleasant smell that may come from the compost heap will not annoy the site owners;
• It is desirable to have a pit in partial shade so that it is not constantly in the sun. This will help it dry out.
• How to make a compost pit so that runoff from it does not fall through the soil into a source of clean water? To do this, if the site has a slope, it is enough to place the pit below the source;
• It is impossible to place a hole under fruit trees, as this can lead to their death;
• The dimensions of the pit are selected taking into account the amount of plant debris and waste that is available in the country and will be in the pit for two years;
• Do-it-yourself options for making a compost pit should take into account that it is recommended to choose the height of the fences so that it is convenient to loosen and collect compost.

Tip: The bottom of the pit should not be covered with slate, metal, rubber or film. They will not allow moisture to rise from the soil upwards, as a result of which the compost will constantly dry out. The bottom must certainly be earthen. But the walls can be closed with any material.

What can and cannot be thrown into the compost pit

A self-made compost pit will justify its purpose if the following types of waste are laid in it:

• leaves, bark, needles, chopped branches and roots;
• weeded and mowed weeds, grass;
• bird droppings and rotted two-year manure;
• vegetables, fruits and berries, including cleaning;
• remnants of coffee, tea;
• hay, sawdust, shavings, straw;
• ash from burning wood;
• paper, paper bags, cardboard, napkins.

Tip: If a thick layer of fresh grass is laid in the pit, then the process of its decomposition can be delayed for six months or a year. In this case, cover the grass with soil.

Do not lay in the pit:

• inorganic products that do not decompose. These are rubber, plastic bags, plastic, metal, synthetic products;
• faeces of pets, as they may contain helminth eggs;
• bones;
• the tops of tomatoes and potatoes, as it is often infected with late blight;
• plants treated with chemicals;
• ripe weed seeds;
• thick branches that rot for a long time.

Possible manufacturing options

A compost heap with your own hands can be made in several ways. We list them all, indicating the features of each of them.

The usual heap in which waste is added

• Choose a place on the site where the compost heap will be located;
• As various wastes accumulate, they are laid in the selected place. In this case, it is desirable to lay organic matter in layers. Alternate food waste with grass and manure;
• When the height of the heap reaches 1 meter, make several recesses in it, into which pour special compost liquid. This will speed up the maturation of the compost;
• With regular loosening and watering, the compost will ripen after 3 months.

This is ideal for those who want to get by with minimal effort, but still get some compost. It is desirable to form several such piles, each of which will rot gradually.

simple pit

A simple device for a compost pit in the country with your own hands will be provided by an ordinary pit dug in a selected place:

• The depth of the pit should be small, which will provide easier care for its contents. It is better to make it wider;
• Branches, hay, tree bark are laid at the bottom of the pit;
• Next come layers of food and plant waste;
• Since the temperature in the pit is not very high, it is advisable to cover it with a film.

This is the least successful way to equip a compost pit. To mix its contents, more effort will be required, and the pit will warm up less. The advantages of such a pit are its small area and simplicity of the device.

Box made of wood or other material

How to make a compost pit with your own hands so that it is convenient and inexpensive? Use boards, bars, slate, sheets of metal, etc. for this.

The order of arrangement will be as follows:

• On the soil, the top layer of soil about 40 cm thick is removed;
• Pegs are driven in along the perimeter of the pit;
• A fence is installed around the pit. It can be wooden (boards, pallets, shields, bars) or some other. It is allowed to use any material: flat or corrugated slate, polycarbonate, metal sheets;
• The height of the fence should not exceed 1 m. This is necessary for the convenience of mixing the compost;
• From above, such a structure is covered with plywood or film.

This design allows the compost to warm up well, therefore it is considered optimal for use on land.

There is an original version of the wooden box. Its lower edges do not reach the soil surface by 25-30 cm. That is, boards or other material are attached at a certain distance from the ground. In the lower part of such a box, the compost matures faster, as it was laid earlier. As it matures, the compost is picked up and the pile settles down. Such a pile practically does not need to be loosened. There is always an opportunity to get some amount of ready-made compost.

concrete pit

If you decide to build a durable structure that will last for decades, then use the advice on how to make a compost heap in a concrete pit.

The building is set up like this:

• a plot is marked for future construction (approximately 2x3 meters);
• soil is selected at 60-80 cm;
• a formwork about 10 cm thick is being built along the perimeter of the future building;
• concrete mortar is mixed;
• concrete is poured into the formwork;
• after the concrete has hardened, the formwork is removed;
• waste is laid in layers in a concrete pit;
• from above, the pit is covered with wooden shields or covered with a film.

This is the most costly way to build a compost pit in terms of effort and investment. Such a structure should be placed where the heap will definitely not create any difficulties, since it will be impossible to move it to another place.

Tip: It is recommended to divide the compost facility into at least 2 sections. While you will put fresh waste collected in the current season into one of them, last year's compost will decompose in the second section.

It should also be noted that there are options for organizing a compost pit from a barrel or special plastic containers for compost, but additionally, the use of drugs that accelerate the processing of waste, or the addition of Californian worms, will be required.

How to properly operate a compost pit

We figured out how to build a compost pit with your own hands using various schemes. It remains to highlight the question of how to properly care for the compost pit during the season. It is enough to perform the following simple manipulations:

1. Loosen the compost periodically with a pitchfork. In this case, access of oxygen into the heap will be ensured. In addition, the waste will be mixed with each other, which will accelerate their decomposition.
2. Water the pile at least occasionally, and more often during the dry season. Thus, the contents of the pit will be moistened and rot better. Overdried compost almost completely stops decomposing.
3. It is recommended to cover the top of the compost with a dark film. This will create a greenhouse effect inside the heap, raising its temperature. The film will retain moisture inside and prevent the germination of weeds. In a covered pile, the compost will mature in 3-4 months. If you do not cover it, the ripening process will stretch for a whole year.
4. Periodically plant in a pile of California worms, which loosen the contents of the pile and partially process it.
5. If possible, add preparations to the contents of the compost heap that speed up the decomposition process. For example, Compostin, Baikal EM-1, Embionic, Compostar, Sanex EcoCompost, Bioforce Compost and others.

A properly constructed compost pit, which is regularly maintained, is able to provide site owners with high-quality and practically free fertilizer in a very short time.

How can a compost pit be made with your own hands - the photo manufacturing options will be clearly demonstrated.

Well-fertilized land always pleases with a plentiful harvest of vegetables and fruits. In order to get top dressing for the soil, it is not necessary to buy chemical fertilizers. To do this, a do-it-yourself compost pit can be built on the site. Manufacturing options are different, and it is easy to choose the one that is most suitable for materials, their cost and the size of the site.

Compost is an organic fertilizer obtained from plant waste or the waste products of some animals. This is the result of biodegradation of materials under the influence of various microorganisms.

When composting in the waste layer, substances are formed that are necessary for feeding plants - nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus and other elements, microflora dangerous to health is neutralized. Composts are used for all garden crops, they are applied in a couple, in holes. Such fertilizer is not inferior to manure in terms of efficiency.

Attention! Not to be confused compost pit with cesspool. The second is the simplest autonomous sewer. Fertilizer will not work from these drains. The only thing that can be achieved soil pollution.

Many refuse to build a compost pit on their site due to the fact that they are afraid of an unpleasant smell and an unaesthetic appearance. If you choose the right place, then the design will not create discomfort for the residents of this and neighboring areas.

Find out how, and also check out the scheme, options and the best ideas in a special article on our portal.

When choosing a place, pay attention to which direction the water flows during the rains. If a well is located on the site, then the flows should not be directed in that direction. Otherwise, the water will become contaminated, lose its taste, or even become completely unusable.

The direction of the wind, which is most often observed in this area, should also be taken into account. Then the smell will be minimally distributed throughout the site. Do not forget about the interests of neighbors.

There should be partial shade in the chosen place. If the site is under the sun, then the compost mass dries up, the decay process slows down.

Near the compost pit should not be fruit, coniferous or evergreen trees, shrubs. When the waste rots, aggressive substances are released. This can harm vegetation, in particular, their root system. But if birch or alder grows on the site, then such a neighborhood will not harm. Lush crowns will cover the structure from the scorching midday sun.

Table 1. Distance from the compost pit to other elements.

Attention! The pit is located on the site lower than the well. Also take into account the level of groundwater so that they do not flood the compost tanks.

Although SNiP indicates the minimum required distance to the well 8 m, some owners decide to play it safe, and leave a distance between objects 25–30 m.

What foods can and cannot be thrown into the compost pit

Not all waste is allowed to be composted. into the pit allowed throw:

• raw fruits, tea leaves and coffee grounds, cereals, peelings;
• straw, fresh and dry grass, leaves, needles;
• parts of trees and shrubs - they are pre-crushed, unpainted waste from woodworking;
• wood ash;
• paper products;
• second year herbivore dung.

Forbidden use for composting:

All products are divided into green and brown. The former are the source nitrogen, the latter saturate the soil carbon. The ratio of nitrogen to carbon is considered optimal at proportions 25 to 1. A mass of leaves and freshly cut grass, taken in half, is thrown into the pit. They will give the optimal chemical composition of the mixture.

Compost pit design

Compost pits are made from different materials. Usually use what is at hand. Standard hole size 1500x3000 mm, height - from 1200 mm. The structure can be made large if there is a lot of waste.

The whole space is divided into three compartments:

• for fresh waste;
• for last year's waste;
• for finished compost.

But variations are possible. So, if you achieve rapid maturation of the fertilizer, then one tank will be enough. For example, for this, for 1 part of green waste they take 25 brown, be sure to put manure. The total volume of the heap must be at least 1 cubic meter, otherwise the temperature inside will not warm up to the desired values ​​(in different sources it is called 45-60 °С).

Attention! The larger the pit, the better the temperature necessary for the activity of microorganisms is maintained in it.

Compost pit "for the lazy" - the easiest option

In this case, no building materials are required, only a tool - shovel.

Prices for bayonet shovels

bayonet shovel

In the ground, they dig a trench of the above dimensions with a depth 0.5 m Sand is poured at the bottom. It performs the function of drainage to remove excess moisture from the pit. Cut branches are laid on the sand. This layer is responsible for aeration - enrichment with oxygen.

Then stack the waste in this order:

• grass;
• dry leaves;
• sawdust;
• table waste;
• manure;
• weeds.

Peat is poured between the layers, watered.

Attention! To activate the process of decay, large waste is pre-crushed.

Total heap height - 150 cm, of which 100 cm rises above the surface of the earth. Covering material or sheets of slate are placed on top. In the summer, when it is too dry, the waste is watered with clean water.

Slate compost pit - a more efficient scheme

Such a tank can be made in just 1 day and it will last for many years. The main advantages of building material:

• cheapness- you can use the old roofing that has become unusable;
• durability- asbestos-cement slabs serve up to 40 years;
• ease of installation.

Such a compost pit consists of slate sheets attached to a wooden frame.

Materials that will be required for it:

• circular saw, grinder, screwdriver;
• tape measure, marking pencil;
• level;
• slate;
• boards for the frame;
• self-tapping screws;
• door handles, hinges - for the cover;
• paint or varnish with antifungal properties, which are used to process the inner sides of the walls of the future pit.

Step-by-step instructions for making a slate compost pit

Step 1. Cut sheets of slate with a cutting tool.

Prices for angle grinders (grinders)

Angle grinders (grinders)

Step 2 They dig grooves for slate along the perimeter of the future pit.

Step 3 Cover the side of the slate, which will be facing the inside of the structure, with paint.

Step 4 Slate sheets are installed in the dug recesses, sprinkled with earth.

Step 5 A frame is made of boards along the outer or inner perimeter of the structure.

Step 6 Knock down covers for compartments from boards, screw door handles. Attach door hinges and install covers. The compost pit is ready.

Such a tank can be hidden underground. Then, at the initial stage, they dig a hole of the required depth. The walls of the recess are sheathed with sheets, tied with wooden blocks from the outside. The slate should protrude above the ground by 10-15 cm. The bars are covered with protective compounds.

Composter from metal corrugated board

The compost bin is also made of profiled sheet (corrugated sheet). This is a facing material that is used to decorate walls and roofs. It is better to take sheets with an anti-corrosion coating that protects the material from damage during the operation of the structure. Usually it is acrylic, polyester, PVC, other materials.

Assembly is carried out in the following sequence:

1. From wooden or metal bars assemble the frame of the desired size. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the sheet. It is undesirable to cut them unless absolutely necessary, so as not to destroy the protective coating. The frame is made into as many sections as there should be in the composter.
2. self-tapping screws attach profile sheets to the frame.
3. Make the top shield of plywood or boards. If you are too lazy to make a lid, then you can cover the container with sheets of the same corrugated board.

The disadvantage of the design is that it has drum effect. So it will be noisy when it rains. However, as the tank fills, the volume will decrease. In addition, the metal under the sun is very hot. The polymer coating can be damaged over time, due to which corrosion centers are formed. Therefore, the structure must be regularly inspected.

Video - Do-it-yourself composter

Compost tank from a metal or plastic barrel - step by step instructions

The advantages of a compost tank from a barrel of this design:

• simple materials that are either at hand or easy to get;
• this design is convenient in that the barrel is simply removed from the pit thanks to the roller mechanism;
• any home master who owns a grinder will make such a design;
• minimal inconvenience due to an unpleasant smell in the area;
• the barrel will not spoil the appearance of the site;
• compost is protected from wind, excess moisture, and other adverse factors.

For the manufacture of fixtures, you will need a barrel - metal or plastic, with a volume 50 liters or more.

To prepare such a compost tank, in addition to the tank, you will need:

• plywood 6 mm;
• wooden bars 5x10 cm(footage depends on the size of the barrel)
• 4 roller;
• fasteners - screws, nails.

A pit from a barrel is built in the following sequence:

Step 1. From plywood using a jigsaw or other carpentry tool cut out the lid for the container. Its diameter should be slightly larger than the diameter of the neck of the container.

Step 2. Cut 4 identical bars 10–12 cm long. Coal or other coloring agent wipe the edge of the barrel. Attach the lid with the side facing the inside of the tank. A square is drawn in the resulting circle. At the tops of the figure, pieces of bars are nailed. This is necessary so that the lid closes tightly.

Step 3. Make a rectangular frame from wooden blocks. Its length is slightly greater than the height of the reservoir, and its width is three-quarters of its diameter.

Step 4. Attach 2 rollers on each long side of the rectangle. Fix them with screws.

Step 5 On the short side of the frame, where the bottom of the tank will be, attach the beam. This is a retaining stop that will not allow the barrel to move down. The beam must be in the same plane as the wheels.

Step 6. Install the hook on the outside of the barrel, and fastened on opposite sides of the loop, two rubber bands holding the lid.

A hole is dug in the area to a depth of 10-15 cm smaller than the height of the tank. The frame is first immersed in the pit, and then the tank.

Attention! To make the frame last longer, it can be treated with various impregnations against fungus and rot, and then painted - for example, with enamels. So the wood will be reliably protected from adverse factors.

Concrete pit for composting

A more durable way to get a place to produce humus on your own plot is to build a concrete compost pit. This design will last for decades.

The construction process is simple, and consists of the following steps:

1. Dig a hole with the following dimensions: width - 200 cm, length - 300 cm, depth - 80 cm
2. around the perimeter make formwork over the entire height, also providing for a transverse jumper (two possible), which will divide the space into separate tanks.
3. Preparing concrete: cement-sand mixture ( 3 to 1) - 5 kg, water - 5 l.
4. The concrete mixture is poured into the formwork.
5. They knock down the frame from the boards. A chain-link mesh is pulled from above - this will be a cover for the structure.

Learn how to make concrete rings in a special article on our portal.

Steel mesh compost bin

For the manufacture of a basket, a metal, preferably polymer-coated, mesh is taken. The advantage of this design is that the compost is well ventilated and does not rot.

For the manufacture of the structure, the following materials will be required:

• protective mesh for fences;
• film or garden textiles (you can use a large trash bag);
• wire to connect the ends of the mesh.

The mesh is cut so that a cylinder of the desired diameter is obtained, and added 20 cm stitching allowance. The same amount of garden textiles will be required. It is placed inside the basket. The edges are turned over the upper edge of the cylinder wall and secured with paper clips.

This is a fairly lightweight design that is assembled in a few minutes and dismantled just as quickly. To give stability to the basket, it can be strengthened along the outer edge with wooden posts dug on 10-15 cm into the ground.

What other composter equipment options are there?

A compact composter can be made from boards. For a budget option, discarded wooden pallets, previously disassembled into parts, come in handy.

The peculiarity of this design is that fresh and mature compost is stored in one tank. Due to the fact that there is a hole with a lifting wall at the bottom of the structure, it is easy and convenient to get ready-made fertilizer. Another convenience is that there is no need to mix the substrate inside the box. Even a schoolboy can knock down such a box.

Attention! Wooden elements are coated with impregnations, as is the case with a frame for a compost barrel.

If you can’t make it yourself, then you can install a regular special plastic container on the site. They are available in capacities from 400 to 1000 l, which allows you to choose the most suitable option for your needs. However, their price can be quite high - up to 10 thousand rubles. It is for this reason that many owners of summer cottages prefer homemade products from improvised materials.

Prices for a plastic compost bin

Punch

A more durable option is to use precast concrete rings. Previously, a recess is dug in the area along the diameter of the structure. Then a ring is installed and partially buried in the ground. A shield knocked down from boards is used as a cover. You can get by with the usual covering material.

However, a concrete ring composter has one drawback: it does not have a low wall that would allow convenient loading of waste or compost. Therefore, for such operations they climb inside the structure.

Video - Do-it-yourself concrete ring for a composter

How to care for a compost pit

In order to be able to prepare high-quality fertilizer, the compost pit should be properly looked after.

Periodically, the waste is watered. This will ensure the correct rotting process. The pile should be moist but not wet. Excess moisture for bacteria is no less dangerous than lack.

Once a month, the pile is stirred to ensure oxygen access. This contributes to the burning of products. If it is not possible to dig up the waste, they are carefully pierced with a pitchfork.

Owners of summer cottages and household plots should not abandon the compost pit. This is not only an opportunity to get affordable fertilizers, but also respect for the environment. After all, burning dry grass and leaves harms nature. The law provides for a fine for such actions. A compost pit solves the problem of waste disposal and disposal.

Summer residents are well aware that organic waste from the sites should not be thrown away. They can become a healthy, environmentally friendly fertilizer. For their competent processing create the so-called compost. This fertilizer is obtained as a result of the decomposition of organic substances under the influence of various microorganisms. Compost can be added to any soil to improve its quality. For example, when using compost on clay soil, you can achieve the effect of loose soil, and sand, when mixed with this fertilizer, will retain water much better.

DIY compost pit

Incredibly, almost all structures used to create compost are called compost pits. However, in reality, this is not always a hole.

• With the help of a compost pit (or heap).
• With the help of a special container for compost.

The first method has already become a classic. It is popular because of the low financial costs and ease of organization of the process. To create such a pit, an approximately half-meter deepening is made in the ground, and the resulting volume is filled with waste of organic origin, from which it is supposed to create future fertilizer.

The top of the hole is covered with a black film. Often the edges of the polyethylene are attached to long sticks or cuttings that help hold the film in place. The presence of such cuttings also helps with the further exploitation of the contents of the pit. With their help, it is convenient to remove the film and return it to its place.

In cases where a compost heap is used, the latter is covered with a special wire mesh (a kind of frame is made). Water and oxygen perfectly penetrate through such a grid, enriching the fertilizer and promoting the development of microorganisms.

But this method also has disadvantages. It's pretty hard to mix. If the pile is large, then it will not be able to warm up well. All this can lead to an increase in the period of "ripening" of the fertilizer.

Closed compost bins vary in size, number of bins, color and material from which they are made. You can make such a container yourself, but you can also purchase it in a specialized store. As a rule, a distinctive feature of such boxes is a drum that allows you to turn the contents of the container, as well as a hose for adding water to the box. Another advantage can be called the security of containers from the penetration of unnecessary pests.

The most elementary of the existing containers is single-section. Substances are placed in such a container from above, and the finished compost is taken from below. To do this, a hole is made at the bottom of one of the walls of the container with a removable (opening) door. If a distance of about 40 cm is left between the container and the ground, then the compost will not need to be mixed.

The two-section box consists of two equal halves. In the first compartment, as a rule, the finished substrate is stored, and the “fresh” waste is placed in the second. These boxes have a hinged lid. The main condition is that it should fit snugly against the box, securely closing its contents.

Such boxes are most often made from boards, metal, slate, plastic and other materials. To place such a box in a pit under it, metal supports (or poles) are dug in. Thick metal rods are also suitable as supports, but it is forbidden to set up wooden poles, because. wood is easily rotten and the box will eventually simply fall. Metal parts must be treated with an anti-corrosion coating, and if there are any parts made of wood, the latter must be impregnated with a protective compound and painted twice.

Many summer residents make a box of three compartments. At the same time, mature compost is placed in the first compartment, the second is filled with medium readiness compost, and new organic substances are laid in the third.

A concrete box is one of the most durable structures. It is built once and for a long time. A formwork is built over a trench or pit with a depth of about 0.8 m. Then it is filled with concrete. Ultimately, the formwork is removed, the soil is removed from the container. Instead of a cover, it is recommended to use a shield made of wood or dark polyethylene, pressed against a metal mesh.

A plastic box is a finished construction, equipped with ventilation (holes), a lid and various sizes. They are relatively inexpensive and last a long time.

The ideal dimensions for a compost bin are one and a half by two meters, but they can vary due to the amount of organic matter that is planned to be processed in a two-year period (this amount of time takes the entire process of creating a fertilizer).

It is important to consider that the smaller the size of the box, the slower and worse the process of heating the substrate will go. Because of this, all the toxic substances arising from decay simply will not be destroyed. It has been established that the temperature inside the compost bin cannot fall below 60 degrees.

The location of the box can be chosen based on two criteria: remoteness and the use of the site used for other needs. In other words, the box is built in the farthest and most inconspicuous corner with infertile soil or in a very shaded place unsuitable for growing crops.
It is important when choosing a place to remember the following nuances. Rotting organic matter smells extremely bad. Their stench will interfere not only with the owner of the site, but also with the neighbors.

The pit must be easily accessible. You will need to use these fertilizers throughout the year. It is important to prevent situations where the water will stagnate. For this reason, it is best to choose the most even places for such structures.

Such a pit must be raised above the ground level in order to facilitate its mixing, heating and the process of adding water to the contents. It is not recommended to build a pit near the source from which drinking water is drawn in order to prevent the penetration of harmful substances produced as a result of decay into it.

Do not install the box in a bright sunny place. The rays of the sun can dry out the substrate and slow down the whole process. The box should be placed in a shady place. The source used for the intake of drinking water should be located as far as possible from the compost pit. The optimal distance is 25 meters or more. It is extremely dangerous to arrange compost under the crown of trees. Such a neighborhood can destroy a tree. Coniferous plants are especially sensitive to toxins released during decay. But birch will be more resistant to their effects.

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The soil directly under the pit must be carefully cleared, removing any vegetation, and then making a small depression (about 0.3 m.)

When laying compost, the green and brown layers of the substrate alternate. Wet layers are also interleaved with dry ones. In this case, the green layers should be three times less than the brown ones, and the dry layers should be five parts less than the wet ones.

It should be borne in mind that all large elements of raw materials should be crushed in advance.

Used leaving is usually divided into two types:

• The brown species includes: leaves, thin branches, sawdust, rags (from woolen fabrics or cotton), newspapers, cardboard or paper, plant roots, ash, grass, old rotten wood, etc. It is believed that all these wastes will emit when rotting carbon.
• The green species includes: fruits of plants from berries to vegetables, pomace from ground coffee, tea leaves, food leftovers (especially cereals or soups), egg shells, feces of herbivores. It is important to remember that if there is too much ordinary green grass, then the compost production process will slow down significantly. In this case, it is recommended to sprinkle the grass layers with soil.

The following substances can significantly increase the speed of fertilizer preparation: rotted waste products of horses, certain plants (for example, dandelions or mint), special substances (for example, Compostine), dry bird feces, ground bones, various fertilizers, etc.

Not all organic matter can be useful in compost production. So, the compost pit does not allow the use in it of: the results of the life of pets, some weeds (for example, loach or couch grass) infected with pests of plants (or parts thereof), plants after treatment with pesticides, non-decomposable garbage (inorganic), fats, eggs, milk and its derivatives and others.
All items and substances that cannot be placed in a compost bin are disposed of as household waste or placed in a cesspool.

correct exploitation compost pit

It is required to know not only how to fill the hole with the necessary organic matter, but also how to exploit it, how to speed up decay or improve the quality of fertilizer. For a more productive result, it is recommended to adhere to the following prescriptions:

1. The contents of the pit (container) need to be periodically moistened, but it is important not to overdo it with the addition of water. The substrate should remain moist, but no more. Don't keep it dry either. The decay process will stop.
2. Compost should be periodically pierced and stirred with a pitchfork. This will improve the penetration of oxygen, which will positively affect the process as a whole.
3. It is very important to cover the contents of the pit with black film. This will speed up the composting process.
4. The presence of earthworms in the compost has a positive effect on the process. They can even be artificially planted in a pit.
5. The compost needs to be mixed frequently.

As the contents of the pit rot, the temperature inside rises. In some cases, steam is produced as a result of this process. If it rises from the heap, then this demonstrates to the owner that the composting process is proceeding as expected.

In autumn, the compost pit requires special attention. The bottom layer is already ready for use by this time. It is recommended to remove it from the pit and use it to cover flower beds with perennials. The top layer can be removed and laid separately.

It is very convenient to use old boxes or pallets for sorting compost. It is necessary to sort the substrate. This will speed up compost production and make it more uniform.

Experienced summer residents advise covering compost bins and heaps not with a whole black film, but charmingly making holes in it. This allows you to maintain a stable temperature and humidity inside the pit, and also promotes air circulation.

Creating a compost pit is a rather laborious process, but it is worth it. With the help of such pits, a huge amount of organic waste can be disposed of, while obtaining an extremely valuable fertilizer, the quality of which will not be in doubt.

Before proceeding with the preparation of compost, I suggest that you familiarize yourself with, which are often allowed in the manufacture of this organic fertilizer.

If there is a dacha, then there is a garden, and the most important thing for a garden is fertilizer. Not everyone likes to use mineral complexes as a top dressing. Many prefer organics like humus and compost, which you can make yourself. In this case, composters for summer cottages will be great helpers for the gardener - special containers of various sizes in which it is convenient to prepare and store natural fertilizer.

It is a mistake to assume that these two terms have the same meaning. Common to them is only the essence of obtaining fertilizer, namely, the process of decay. The difference lies in the components used, which will lay the foundation for top dressing and its vitamin and mineral composition.

Humus

This is decomposed manure - cow, horse, rabbit and any other, depending on the farm living on the site. The whole process of debate or decomposition takes from 2 to 5 years. Ready humus should have a pleasant fresh aroma, like earth in a forest. To improve the quality of the fertilizer, manure is mixed with earth, sawdust, straw, adding water if necessary to prevent drying out.

The presence of a heavy ammonia odor indicates that the humus maturation process is not over yet.

From time immemorial, almost all crops have been fertilized with manure in Russia. It is great for sandy loam, keeping moisture in them. It makes clay soils more loose and aerated. Ready humus is the same humus that is the fertile component of any soil.

Compost

Not all summer residents have the opportunity to fertilize the site with humus. In this case, compost will come to the rescue, which you can make yourself using a pit or a special container - a composter.

For its preparation, they take vegetation and everything that can rot. Grass, sawdust, wood chips, small twigs, haulm leftovers, peelings, tea bags, ashes, and whatever is on hand are great. Some gardeners, if possible, add a little manure or chicken manure - this significantly improves the quality of the finished fertilizer.

It is not recommended to put vegetation affected by fungus and diseases, feces of dogs, cats and humans, fish, bones, meat and dairy products into the compost heap. Violation of the rules for preparing compost can lead to a deterioration in its quality and the development of harmful microorganisms.

Compost fully matures in about two years. But the market today offers various composting accelerators, as a result of which the entire process can take no more than one season. Ready fertilizer, along with humus, improves the structure and properties of the soil, thereby increasing productivity.

What conditions are necessary for composting

The simplicity of making compost only seems at first glance. In fact, compliance with the composting conditions is necessary for the fermentation process to proceed correctly. The main factors naturally affecting the course of this process are:

What is a composter and what is it for?

Traditionally, a hole is dug to make compost. However, its use is not very convenient, especially when only 4-6 acres are owned. The small area of ​​​​the site, the smell emanating from the pit, the inconvenience during mixing the compost heap make us look for an alternative.

The composter is a container of a given volume, the special device of which provides for the creation of favorable conditions for the preparation of compost.

Each design must have:

• a lid where material for composting is laid;
• openings for air intake;
• holes at the bottom to remove accumulated liquid.

Additional features vary by model.

You can make a composter yourself from improvised materials - this is a good money saver. The advantage of purchased models is durability and a beautiful appearance that allows you to put the boxes anywhere.

Composters are made from different materials, such as wood. In such products, the contents are well saturated with oxygen, as a result, the fertilizer is crumbly, but sometimes a little dry. Metal containers are excellent at retaining moisture, so the finished compost is moist and denser. There are also composters made of plastic that is resistant to low temperatures and ultraviolet radiation.

What are the benefits of using a composter

A composter for a summer resident is the same as a food processor for a housewife. This is a handy thing that will help save time, effort and money. Composters, especially closed ones, have many advantages, the most significant of which are:

Modern composters have excellent performance and aesthetic characteristics, so they can be installed without harm to the design of the site. In addition, manufacturers began to produce landscape devices in the form of a small mound, decorative stone or other natural elements. Such models will not only perform their functions, but also decorate the place.

Types of composters

According to the type of their functioning, composting devices are divided into:

• open composters that operate during the warm season. This is the most economical option. It is easy to assemble and convenient to operate in large areas where there is a lot of organic material.

The disadvantage of this type of construction is the spread of an unpleasant odor and the possibility of overgrowing with vegetation. In addition, the fermentation time is increased.

• Closed composters more convenient to use. They are small, their volume is from 200 to 1000 liters. Such composters can be left outside all year round, and if necessary, they can be easily hidden in the garden. Moreover, the chemical reactions inside proceed faster, which means that the fertilizer will be ready earlier.

The only disadvantage of closed composters is the price. It is much higher than that of open type composters.

Models

Among the variety of industrial composters, the following three models are distinguished, which differ in their design features:

How to choose a composter?

Choosing a composter starts with its volume. For small plots (up to 6 acres) or for the disposal of food waste, a design with a volume of 200-300 liters is suitable. For a larger area, a larger capacity will be required - up to 1000
l. Sometimes summer residents purchase two or three composters at once and put organic matter into them in turn, thereby providing themselves with a continuous supply of organic fertilizer.

When choosing a device for composting, they are guided by its structural details. For example, it is important to pay attention to the presence of a bottom mesh that protects the contents of the container from rodents. If it is not included, you should worry about a timely additional purchase. Yes, and it does not hurt to immediately decide whether it will be a summer composter or an all-season organic laying is supposed.

Before purchasing a box, you need to pay attention to the entrance and exit hatches. They should be wide enough to make it convenient to lay armfuls of grass and shovel fertilizer with a shovel. Having a large loading hatch will make it easier to turn the pile to increase oxygen access. As an alternative to the unloading hatch, a retractable pallet with ready-made fertilizer from the lower layers can become.

Hatch mounts are a fly in the ointment for many models. During operation, it is found that the doors dangle and strive to fly off from the wind. Therefore, before buying, you need to check how they rotate and how tight they fit when closed.

The mobility of the composter is important, especially if it is stored away for winter or moved regularly. If composting is planned throughout the winter, a thermal composter with a thermostat, thermal insulation and peat in the kit will be indispensable. For lovers of Californian worms, a vermicoster is suitable.

Top Producers

Kekilla Global (Finland)

Perhaps the first place can be assigned to the Finnish manufacturer Kekilla. Their composters are distinguished by excellent resistance to severe frosts, and therefore are considered universal. The most popular Globe model has no heavy or small parts. Rounded design, easy to use, safe for children.

Due to the high speed of composting, the device with a volume of 310 liters. in terms of the amount of ready-made fertilizer per season, it is comparable to 600 liters. In addition, the volume can be artificially increased by adding a pair of 160-liter rings, which are purchased separately.

The compost is reliably isolated from the environment, and after maturation it is easily removed with a shovel. To do this, simply remove the cover and body, opening access to the contents. The Finnish key-flag on the composter is a sign of the highest quality of products made from our own raw materials.

The analogue of the Finnish composter is the Russian Meridian, which has been on the market for 5 years. It has the same characteristics as the Finnish "brother", but on the outside it has a pattern in the form of parallels and a meridian. Differs in the favorable price.

graph Thermo King(Germany)

Another model of thermocomposter, which has proven itself in practice. Its body is made of UV-resistant plastic, the foam structure of which perfectly maintains the optimal temperature inside the box. There is support for selecting summer and winter operating modes.

The lid consists of two flaps and is securely fixed. Does not open even in strong winds. The loading of the material, respectively, is carried out from two sides, as well as the extraction of the finished compost. The design of the device is beautiful, ergonomic, fits easily into the landscape.

Volnusha (Russia)

This is a cone-shaped container, the body of which has a wavy shape (hence the name). It is made of frost- and heat-resistant propylene of increased rigidity, which, due to its shape, perfectly distributes the compost mass. At the same time, it does not oxidize and does not enter into a chemical reaction with other substances.

Volume Volnushi - 1000 liters, ideal for six acres. It does not have a bottom, so excess moisture will go into the ground. However, an additional purchase of a bottom mesh to protect against rodents is required.

The body has ventilation holes and four holes for compost extraction. Easily disassembled and transported in the trunk of a car. Of the shortcomings - the opening of the lid in strong winds.

Operating rules

• Do not overload the container - the finished fertilizer should be loose and slightly damp. Material must be immersed in it no higher than the maximum mark.
• It is recommended to install the composter on the ground or grass, but not on a wooden or concrete base. This is necessary to ensure the access of worms to the inside of the structure and to remove excess moisture.
• The best place to set up a composter is in a shaded and wind-sheltered area away from open flames.
• The bottom of the composter must be protected with a metal mesh to prevent mice from entering.
• When cold weather sets in, the device must be switched to winter mode of operation or wrapped in a film to maintain the internal temperature.
• Stir the compost heap regularly 1-2 times a month to improve chemical reactions. In this case, it is better not to touch the lower, ripened layer.

DIY composter

The composter can be made from improvised materials - boards, old furniture, building residues. Most often, wooden containers are made, since working with wood easily allows you to meet all the necessary conditions. Furniture in this respect is ill-suited, it is usually only enough for one season.

For convenience, you can prepare a drawing of the box. It will be easier to navigate in the process of work, as well as calculate the amount of material needed. The optimal size of the composter is 1 m 3, that is, 1m × 1m × 1m.

For work, you will need a 5-centimeter beam and boards 2.5 cm thick. All material will need to be pre-treated with an anti-rot agent, which will prevent the hull from participating in fermentation.

First, columns are made from timber, which are dug into the ground and, if desired, fixed with cement mortar.

Next, collect the side walls, followed by the back and front. Between the boards leave 1-2 cm gap for oxygen access. A small gap is also needed from the surface of the earth. The front wall can be slightly shortened for convenience, then the hinged door will lie at a slight angle. The side door will greatly simplify the extraction of finished compost.

By the same principle, two- and three-section composters are made. While the process of debate is going on in one section, plant material is being laid in another. It is possible to make the side walls of the device not from boards, but from a fine-mesh stainless mesh enclosed in a wooden frame. Frames are attached to timber posts, creating a perfectly aerated container.

There are a lot of options for making composters. Here you can really show your imagination and your skills. It is only important to observe the basic principles of operation of the device, which are responsible for the quality of the finished fertilizer.

Video instructions for building a composter