How ventilation is removed from the 2nd floor. Ventilation in a private house - natural or forced? Attic ventilation functions

Natural ventilation system in a private house - features and disadvantages

The natural ventilation system in a private house consists of vertical channels that start in a ventilated room and end above the roof ridge.

The movement of air up the channels occurs under the action of forces (traction) caused by the difference in air temperatures at the inlet and outlet of the channel. Warm indoor air is lighter than cold outdoor air.

The draft in the ventilation duct is also affected by the wind, which can either increase or decrease the draft. The traction force also depends on other factors: the height and section of the ventilation duct, the presence of turns and constrictions, the thermal insulation of the duct, etc.

Scheme of ventilation of premises in a multi-storey private house

According to building regulations, the natural ventilation channel must provide normative air exchange at an outside air temperature of +5 about C , excluding wind effects.

In summer, when the air temperature in the street is higher than the specified one, the air exchange deteriorates. Air circulation through the channels of natural ventilation almost completely stops when the outside temperature is above +15 about C.

In winter, the colder it is outside, the stronger the draft and the higher. Heat loss in winter through the natural ventilation system, according to some estimates, can reach 40% of all heat loss at home.

In houses, natural ventilation ducts usually exit from the kitchen, bathrooms, boiler room and dressing rooms. Additional channels are arranged for ventilation of the basement or, for the device.

On the upper floors of a private house it is also often necessary to arrange additional natural ventilation ducts from living rooms in order to ensure the air exchange required by the standards.

In attic rooms natural ventilation, as a rule, cannot provide the required air exchange due to a lack of draft in ventilation ducts of low height.

Norms of natural ventilation

Russian building regulations SP 55.13330.2011 "Single-apartment residential houses", clause 8.4. require:

The minimum performance of the ventilation system at home in maintenance mode should be determined from the calculation at least one exchange of air volume per hour in premises with permanent residence of people.

From the kitchen in maintenance mode, at least 60 m 3 of air per hour should be removed, from the bath, lavatory - 25 m 3 of air per hour.

The air exchange rate in other rooms, as well as in all ventilated rooms in non-working mode, should be at least 0.2 room volume per hour.

A room with a permanent stay of people is a room in which the stay of people is provided for at least 2 hours continuously or 6 hours in total during the day.

For comparison, I will give the requirements for ventilation performance in apartment building, least:

The amount of air exchange specified in the standards must be provided for the design conditions: outdoor air temperature +5 about C, and the temperature of the indoor air of the room during the cold season, (for residential premises +22 about C) .

The intake of outdoor air into the premises should be provided through special supply devices in exterior walls or windows.

For apartments and premises, where at an outdoor temperature of +5 °С removal of the rated air flow is not ensured, mechanical exhaust ventilation should be provided.

Mechanical ventilation with partial use of natural ventilation systems for the supply or removal of air (mixed ventilation) should also be provided during periods of the year when microclimate parameters and air quality cannot be provided by natural ventilation.

For example, when the outside temperature is above +5 o C, the performance of natural ventilation ducts is reduced. In this case, it is allowed to increase air exchange in rooms with windows by opening windows, vents and transoms. In rooms without windows, mechanical forced exhaust ventilation should be provided.

The natural ventilation system in a private house works as follows

In old houses, apartments, fresh air from the street penetrates into living rooms through the gaps in wooden windows , then through the overflow holes in the doors(usually a gap between the edge of the door and the floor) reaches the kitchen and bathrooms and exits into the natural ventilation channel.

The main purpose of such ventilation is the removal of gas combustion products, moisture and odors from the kitchen and bathrooms. Living rooms in such a system are not sufficiently ventilated. In the rooms for ventilation it is necessary to open the windows.

In the case of using modern hermetic window structures in the house, for the inflow fresh air it is necessary to install special supply valves in the outer walls of rooms or in windows.

Often, supply valves are not made even in new houses. For air supply having to keep the window sashes open all the time, at best, by installing “micro-ventilation” fittings on the windows for this. (First we choose and pay money for airtight windows with several levels of seals to protect against cold, noise and dust, and then we keep them constantly ajar!? :-?)

It is also common to see airtight doors installed in the premises of a house, without a gap near the floor or other opening for air to pass through. Installation of hermetic doors overlaps natural circulation air between rooms.

Many are not even aware of the need provide a constant supply of fresh air to the rooms and air circulation between the rooms. By setting plastic windows and hermetic doors, and live in stuffiness, with condensation and mold. And in the air of the premises, an increased concentration of deadly gases - and insidious.

Disadvantages of natural ventilation

All these open vents, ajar sashes, cracks in windows, openings-valves in the outer walls and windows cause drafts, serve as a source of street dust, allergenic plant pollen, insects and street noise.

The main disadvantage of natural ventilation in our homes is the lack of control and regulation of the amount of air supplied to and removed from the premises.

As a result, often stuffy in the house high humidity air, condensation on the windows and in other places, fungus and mold appear. Usually, this indicates that ventilation does not cope with its task - to remove pollution, pollution and excess moisture released into the air. The amount of air leaving through the ventilation is clearly not enough.

In other houses in winter, it is more often the other way around, the air is very dry With relative humidity less than 30% (comfortable humidity 40-60%). This indicates that too much air is escaping through the ventilation. The frosty dry air entering the house does not have time to be saturated with moisture and immediately goes into the ventilation duct. And heat goes with the air. We get indoor microclimate discomfort and heat loss.

In summer, the draft in the natural ventilation channel decreases, up to the complete cessation of air movement in the channel. In this case, the rooms are ventilated by opening the windows. Other rooms without windows, for example, a bathroom, a toilet, a dressing room, cannot be ventilated in this way. Such rooms that are left without ventilation in summer, humid air easily and quickly accumulates and then appears, smell, fungus and mold.

How to improve natural ventilation

The work of natural ventilation can be made more economical, if an automatic valve controlled by a humidity sensor is installed at the inlet to the ventilation duct. The degree of opening of the valve will depend on the humidity of the air in the room - the higher the humidity, the more the valve is open.

Installed in the rooms supply valves controlled by an outdoor temperature sensor. As the temperature decreases, the density of the air increases and the valve must be closed to prevent excess cold air from entering the room.

Automation of the valves will reduce heat loss with the air leaving through the ventilation by 20-30%, and the total heat loss of the house by 7-10%.

It should be understood that such local automation of the operation of each individual valve will not be able to fully eliminate the shortcomings of the natural ventilation system in the house. Installing automatic valves will only slightly improve ventilation, especially in winter.

It is possible, at a minimum, to install adjustable grilles and valves on the supply and exhaust ducts, and adjust them manually at least twice a year. On the winter period cover, and with the onset of heat, the exhaust grilles and supply valves open completely.

Building regulations allow the air exchange rate in the non-working mode of the premises to be reduced to 0.2 room volume per hour, i.e. five times. There will always be rarely used rooms in the house. Especially on the upper floors of the house. In winter, be sure to close ventilation valves in rarely used rooms.

The ventilator in the outer wall provides forced air flow into the room. Fan power only 3 -7 Tue.

The ventilator has the following advantages over a supply valve:

The volume of air coming from the street is limited only by the fan power.
They create excessive pressure in the room, due to which, in houses and apartments with a poorly functioning exhaust ventilation channel, air exchange increases, and polluted air from neighboring rooms and the basement is excluded.
Reduce the dependence of natural ventilation on climatic factors.
Achievable deep air purification from dust, allergens and odors as a result of the use of more efficient filters with high aerodynamic resistance.
Provide the best.

Ventilators equipped with an electronic climate control system, air heating, special filters are often called breathers.

Inexpensive electronic devices are commercially available for home use that measure air humidity. Hang this device on the wall and adjust throughput ventilation channels, focusing on the readings of the device. Maintain optimal humidity in residential areas of 40-60%.

Check availability and dimensions ventilation holes to move air between rooms in the house. The area of the overflow opening for air outlet from the living room must be at least 200 cm 2. Usually leave a gap between the edge of the door and the floor in a room with a height of 2-3 cm.

Overflow opening for air inlet to the kitchen, bathroom or to another room equipped with a ventilation exhaust duct, should be at least 800 cm 2. Here it is better to install a ventilation grill at the bottom of the door or inner wall premises.

When moving from a room to a room with a ventilation duct, the air must pass through no more than two overflow openings (two doors).

ventilation ducts that run through unheated room(loft) must be insulated. The rapid cooling of the air in the duct reduces the draft and leads to condensation from the exhaust air. The route of the natural ventilation channel should not have horizontal sections, which also reduce draft.

Fan in natural ventilation duct

To improve the operation of natural ventilation, kitchen hoods are installed, as well as electric fans at the inlet of ventilation ducts. Such fans are suitable only for short-term and intensive ventilation of premises during periods of significant release of moisture and pollution. The fans are very noisy, their performance, and hence the power consumption, exceeds the values \u200b\u200bnecessary for constant ventilation.

It should be noted that installing a fan in an existing natural ventilation duct reduces the clearance of the duct. The autorotation of the blades (rotation under the pressure of the incoming air of the blades of a non-working fan) further increases the aerodynamic resistance of the channel. As a result, setting fan significantly reduces the force of natural draft in the channel.

A similar situation is when the kitchen hood above the stove is connected to the only natural ventilation channel in the kitchen.

Filters, valves and a fan in the kitchen hood practically block the natural draft in the ventilation duct. A kitchen with the hood turned off remains without ventilation, which worsens the air exchange throughout the house.

To remedy the situation, in the air duct between the natural ventilation channel and the kitchen hood it is recommended to place a tee with a check valve on the side outlet. When the hood is not working check valve opens, allowing free passage of air from the kitchen to the ventilation duct.

When turning on the cooker hood a large amount of warm air is thrown out into the street for the sole purpose of removing odors and other contaminants that form above cooker.

To avoid heat loss, it is recommended to install an umbrella over the stove, equipped with a fan, filters and odor absorbers for deep cleaning air. After filtering, the air purified from odors and pollution is sent back to the room. Such an umbrella is often called a filter hood with recirculation. It should be borne in mind that the savings from lower heating costs are somewhat leveled due to the need to periodically replace the filters in the hood.

Available for sale fans controlled by a humidity sensor. The fan turns on when a certain threshold of humidity in the room is reached and turns off when it decreases. All the above features of the operation of fans in the natural ventilation system are also preserved when working with a humidity sensor.

In any case, the operation of the fan only leads to an increase in draft in the ventilation duct and a decrease in humidity in the room. But he is not able to limit natural draft, preventing excessive dryness of the air and heat loss in winter.

In addition, in the natural ventilation system, several elements located in different parts of the house work in concert - supply valves, exhaust ducts, overflow grilles between rooms.

Turning on a fan in one of the channels often leads to a disruption in the operation of other elements of the system. For example, air inlets in a home often fail to let through the sudden increase in air required to run a fan. As a result, when the hood in the kitchen is turned on, the draft in the exhaust duct in the bathroom overturns - air from the street begins to enter the house through the exhaust duct in the bathroom.

Natural ventilation in a private house is a system:

simple and cheap to install;
does not have any mechanisms requiring an electric drive;
reliable, does not break;
very cheap to operate - the costs are associated only with the need to perform periodic inspections and cleaning of ventilation ducts;
does not make noise;
the efficiency of its work is highly dependent on atmospheric conditions - most of the time the ventilation does not work in the optimal mode;
has a limited ability to adjust its performance, only in the direction of reducing air exchange;
in winter, the operation of the natural ventilation system leads to significant heat losses;
in summer, the ventilation system does not work, ventilation of the premises is possible only through open windows, vents;
there is no possibility of preparing the air supplied to the room - filtering, heating or cooling, changing humidity;
does not provide the necessary comfort (air exchange) - which causes stuffiness, dampness (fungi, mold) and drafts, and also serves as a source of street dust (plant pollen) and insects, reduces the sound insulation of rooms.

Ventilation of the upper floors of a multi-storey private house

AT high-rise building, as in a large ventilation duct, there is a natural draft, under the influence of which air from the first floor rushes up the clearance of the stairs to the upper floors.

If no measures are taken, then on the upper floors of the house we will always have stuffiness and high humidity, and in the house there will be a temperature difference between floors.

There are two options for natural ventilation of the upper floors of the house.

Read:

Ventilation in a wooden house

Interestingly, traditional for Russia houses with walls made of logs or timber do not have special devices for ventilation. Ventilation of the premises in such houses occurs due to walls (“breathing walls”), ceilings and windows, as well as as a result of air moving through the chimney when the stove is fired.

In the constructions of a modern wooden house, more and more often they use various ways sealing - machine profiling of the mating surfaces of logs and beams, sealants for interventional seams, vapor-tight and wind-proof films in ceilings, sealed windows. The walls of the house are sheathed and insulated, treated with various poisonous compounds.

In the rooms of the house, as a rule, there are no stoves.

The ventilation system in such modern wooden houses is simply necessary.

Ventilation of wardrobes and pantries

In the dressing room, pantry must be made ventilation. Without ventilation, the rooms will smell, humidity will increase, and even condensation, fungus and mold may appear on the walls.

The scheme of natural ventilation of these rooms should exclude the flow of air from the dressing room or pantry into the living rooms.

If the doors of these rooms open onto a corridor, a hall or a kitchen, then the rooms are ventilated in the same way as the living rooms in the house are ventilated. For the influx of fresh air from the street, in the window (if any) or in the wall is placed supply valve. In the dressing room door, pantries leave a gap below, between the door and the floor, or make another hole for air to pass through, for example, a ventilation grill is inserted into the bottom of the door.

Fresh air enters the dressing room or pantry through the supply valve, then leaves through the hole in the door to the corridor, and then goes to the kitchen, to the exhaust duct of the natural ventilation of the house.

Between the dressing room or storage room and the room where there is a natural ventilation channel there should be more than two doors.

If the doors of the dressing room open into the living room, then the movement of air for ventilation of the dressing room should be organized in the opposite direction - from the living room, through the hole in the door, into the ventilation duct of the dressing room. In this variant dressing room equipped with a natural ventilation channel.

Ventilation in your city

Ventilation

Ventilation of a private house. Air flow in the house - video:

The purpose of ventilation is to improve the air quality in the home. There is a conflict between the need to improve air quality and minimize device costs modern ventilation and reduce its energy consumption.

Meanwhile, ventilation the only way improve indoor air quality. The most important is the control of sources of air pollution. We are talking about everyday habits, such as no smoking in the room, taking care that bacteria and fungi do not multiply in the apartment.

The quality of the air in the house clearly depends on whether low-level materials are used for construction. harmful secretions. natural materials, such as wood, stone or glass, are considered primarily as such.

With a reasonable choice of materials at the construction stage, good quality home air can be maintained even if a less expensive and energy intensive ventilation system is installed.

Which rooms need ventilation?

Human beings need pure oxygen to live normally. Therefore, its inflow should be ensured in living rooms, such as a bedroom, living room, nursery. Office premises in the house (bathroom,) also need constant circulation. There is often high humidity, the accumulation of odors that need to be brought out. Ventilation of these premises will reduce the formation of dust, dirt, excessive stuffiness, condensation, spread harmful microorganisms, mildew.

Ventilation system, methods of organization

There are two main types of air exchange arrangement in residential buildings:

natural (natural);
mechanical (forced).

Features of the arrangement and the principle of operation of natural ventilation of a private house

Natural air exchange in residential buildings is carried out based on the difference in pressure inside and outside the house, as well as the effect of wind on the building. How it works?

The temperature inside the house is higher than outside, so the oxygen there has a lighter structure. Thanks to this, he climbs the mines and goes out into the street. A rarefaction occurs in the room, which helps to draw a fresh stream from the street through the holes in the building envelope. The incoming masses have a heavy structure, therefore they are located at the bottom of the premises. Under their influence, light warm air pushed out of the rooms.

The wind accelerates the circulation of air masses. With an increase in the difference in temperature inside and outside the cottage, wind speed, the supply of freshness to the house increases. Previously, leaks in windows, doors, porous walls served as places of its entry. But modern systems insulation, as well as plastic windows are designed, so they do not have slots for air supply. In this case, the inflow is carried out through special valves mounted in the windows or walls of the building.

Waste oxygen enters the openings of the vertical ventilation ducts of the house, located in the kitchen, bathroom, and is brought out through them. Replenishment with fresh occurs due to ventilation (opening windows, doors, transoms).

Advantages and disadvantages of the system

Natural air exchange in the house has the following advantages:

economy. The movement of air flows is carried out without the use of additional equipment;
no accidents. The ventilation design is extremely simple, does not depend on the power supply, does not require regular maintenance;
noiselessness of work;
Possibility of combination with filtration and air conditioning systems.

The main disadvantage of natural ventilation is a weak air exchange, which leads to the formation of condensate, the accumulation of unpleasant odors, the occurrence of mold and fungus. This threatens not only the gradual destruction of the house, but also the health of the people living in it.

The natural ventilation system does not allow you to control the volume of air removed and supplied to the premises. The recycled stream either does not have time to go outside, or is removed too quickly, providing heat loss in the house. In the summer, when the temperature inside and outside the house is almost the same, the draft disappears and the air movement in the system stops. Therefore, the natural circulation in modern construction houses are practically non-existent. It is used in combination with a mechanical system.

Forced ventilation - features, varieties

It's artificial organized system, the movement of oxygen in which is carried out by attracting pressure devices (fans, pumps, compressors). It is operated in private areas where natural ventilation is not provided or does not work. Benefits of mechanical organization:

works autonomously, regardless of weather conditions (pressure, temperature, wind);
allows you to prepare the air supplied to the premises to a comfortable state (heat / cool, humidify / dehumidify, purify).

Disadvantages of the forced scheme for mansions:

significant costs for arranging the system, purchasing equipment, paying for electricity;
the need for regular maintenance.

Mechanical air exchange in a private house can be arranged in several ways. Distinguish ventilation:

supply - provides forced supply from the outside;
exhaust - removes the processed flow from the premises mechanically;
supply and exhaust - inflow and supply in the house are organized artificially.

Supply ventilation in a private house

This system is designed to replace the exhaust air in the house with fresh air. It consists of:

air inlet;
heating and cooling devices;
cleaning filters;
devices supplying air to the premises;
noise absorbing devices.

Through air valve clean air enters the system, undergoes certain processing, is filtered, and is distributed to the rooms in the house with the help of a fan. Getting into the rooms, it displaces the waste stream. The supplied air can be additionally cooled or heated.

Supply ventilation systems are:

channel - air circulation is carried out through pipes;
channelless - the flow is fed into the room through the holes in the walls, windows.

According to the method of the device, they distinguish:

stacked ventilation systems consisting of separate units connected by one air duct;
monoblock - all devices are assembled in one compact case.

Supply air installations have the following advantages:

the ability to regulate the temperature and volume of oxygen supplied;
compact dimensions;
functionality (they have additional devices for cleaning, heating, cooling the supplied air);
ease of installation, maintenance.

Among the shortcomings of this type of ventilation can be identified:

noise. During operation, the units of the system make sounds, so it is necessary to provide a silencer, install the equipment away from the living rooms in the house;
the need for a place to install all its elements (when installing a typesetting system, it will be required);
the need for regular maintenance.

Exhaust ventilation in a private house

When arranging this system, clean air enters the rooms through windows, doors, special valves, and the exhaust is removed using exhaust fans. These devices are installed in the most problematic places at home (in the kitchen, bathroom), they are wall-mounted and duct type.

Advantages of this setup:

air volume control;
independence from environmental conditions;
ease of installation.

Among the disadvantages of the system:

the inability to control the amount of air supplied to the house;
the cost of purchasing equipment, electricity;
the need for regular maintenance.

Ventilation using air handling units

How to make ventilation in a private house With plastic windows finished with modern thermal insulation materials? For this, it is necessary quality system allowing fresh air to be supplied and exhaust air to be discharged into automatic mode. Air handling units will solve this problem.

They provide for the organization of two parallel streams:

for exhaust air;
to serve fresh.

These settings allow you to adjust the volume of output and supply flows, allowing you to maintain the optimal level of humidity in the premises of the house. The main elements of the supply and exhaust system:

air ducts - intended for supply and output of air masses. They form two parallel highways, consisting of pipes and shaped products(tees, rotary elements). Air ducts differ in shape (round, rectangular), cross-sectional area, rigidity (made of aluminum foil, galvanized sheet, plastic);
fan - provides pressure in the ventilation system, necessary for supplying and extracting air. It can be installed on the roof of the building, directly in the air duct, or on a special support;
air intake grille - through them, air from the street enters the supply channel. Also, these elements protect the system from foreign objects, rodents, birds, precipitation;
air valve - prevents air from entering the system when it is turned off. It can operate on an electric drive, in automatic mode, and also be equipped with electric heating, which prevents the doors from freezing;
filters - protect ventilated rooms and the system itself from insects, dust, and other small particles. They require regular cleaning (recommended 1 time / month);
heater - heats the air supplied to the premises, in cold season. This device is water (suitable for large cottages) and electric (used in small houses);
noise silencers - prevent the spread of sounds from working devices through the piping system. They are tubular, lamellar, chamber, cellular. Getting into them, the air passes through special barriers (perforated channels, tubes or plates), as a result of which its intensity decreases. The installation of a silencer is not always necessary. Sometimes, to reduce the intensity of sounds in the system, it is enough to reduce the speed of the installation, to provide soundproofing of the fans;
air intakes and distributors. The former serve to supply the flow to the system, the latter to distribute it evenly throughout the room. These elements are presented in the form of grilles and diffusers round, rectangular shape. They are mounted on the walls or ceiling of the room;
control system. It can be mechanical (represented by a switch), or automatic (work is controlled by a remote control). Its main elements are thermo- and hydrostats, pressure gauges;
security system - represented by a set of additional devices that protect the ventilation elements from overheating, power surges.

An improved model of supply and exhaust ventilation is a recuperation type system. It provides efficient circulation in the house without heat loss. This ventistem is equipped with a heat exchanger, which allows to reduce the cost of heating the air coming from the street. The supply masses are heated by the heat of the processed flows discharged from the house. This is the most efficient and energy-saving way of organizing air exchange in residential buildings, although it is also the most expensive.

Gas ventilation in a private house

The presence of gas appliances in the house makes increased demands on the arrangement of circulation in the premises. Traction disturbance can cause poisoning by combustion products.

For normal operation gas installations oxygen is needed. If it is not enough, the air in the room is discharged. As a result, there is reverse thrust, and instead of a chimney, combustion products enter the surrounding space. They can cause malaise, severe headaches, loss of consciousness by a person, and even a complete cessation of breathing.

Requirements for ventilation of a gas boiler room

Air exchange in a room with a heating device operating on natural gas, must be organized according to the following technical requirements:

no more than two gas units per chimney;
combustion products must enter the chimney from different levels (from a distance of more than 50 cm). With a single-level feed, a cut of the same height is mounted in the channel;
to prevent leakage of soot and carbon monoxide into the premises of the house, the ventilation system of the boiler must be sealed. Processing of joints and seams is carried out with a material resistant to high temperatures;
all elements of the exchange system must be thermally insulated to prevent fire.

The ventilation of the boiler room is constructed on the basis of: air outflow = air exchange x 3.

Air supply \u003d outflow + the amount of oxygen needed for the combustion process.

Ways to ventilate a gas boiler room

Air exchange in the room where it is placed gas equipment, can be organized with:

natural and mechanical ventilation traction based. Natural circulation is the result of a pressure difference inside the house and outside. With mechanical ventilation, draft is generated by a fan;
supply, exhaust, or combined system ventilation organized according to purpose. The air supplied to the room forcibly presses on the exhaust stream, pushing it out. Also, oxygen can be supplied to the boiler room in a natural way, and removed mechanically. To organize the ventilation of the room in automatic mode will allow the combined (supply and exhaust system), which works effectively in any weather, since the supply and removal in it is carried out mechanically;
channelless, or channel (depending on the constructive solution of the cottage). In the first case, the boiler room is connected through holes to another room, from where the waste stream is discharged into the air duct. In the second case, it is laid a complex system pipes that provide exchange in all rooms of the house.

Tip: to improve the natural ventilation of a gas boiler room, it is better to additionally install an exhaust fan, which will ensure the movement of air masses in the absence of draft.

Heating devices closed type operating on natural gas are equipped with a coaxial (double) ventilation duct. According to him inner tube combustion products are removed, and fresh air is supplied to the burner through the external one.

If a gas boiler with an open combustion chamber is installed in the house, you should:

install a pipe to remove carbon monoxide to the street;
equip a general air exchange system in the room;
establish the supply of oxygen to the boiler.

Note: oxygen can enter the room from the street through cracks and gaps in windows and doors. If the room is hermetically sealed, you will need to organize the supply of fresh air by force.

Proper ventilation in a private house

The organization of oxygen exchange will ensure a favorable microclimate in the house, the health of its inhabitants and the safety of the structure itself. How to arrange it correctly?

House ventilation rules and regulations

To create in the residential and office premises of the cottage optimal conditions for human life, it is necessary that for 1 hour each of them receive 60 m 3 of oxygen (minimum 20 m 3). Comfortable Humidity air is 50%, and the speed of its exchange is 0.5 m / s.

This can be achieved through proper system design. In this case, the rate of air exchange for rooms should be taken into account. for various purposes. For a bathroom, this figure is 50 m 3, a common bathroom - 25 m 3, a kitchen - 90 m 3. Not only service rooms, but also living rooms should be ventilated, utility rooms. To form a calculated hood, it is necessary to summarize the air exchange rates of each compartment of the house. At the same time, it is desirable that the actual ventilation exceed the minimum standards.

Designing an air exchange system in a house

The development of a house ventilation project includes:

selection of equipment;
drawing up a wiring diagram for communications, taking into account architectural, construction, sanitary, economic criteria.

The purpose of this work is to develop a system that will cope with the supply and removal of air, within the estimated volume calculated for the house. The project should not only provide uninterrupted ventilation of the premises, but also free access to all structural elements (assemblies, chambers). This is necessary for fast elimination malfunctions and regular maintenance.

In order for the circulation to work well, it is important to carefully select all the equipment. It should last as long as possible. The devices used should not spoil the architecture of the house, so it is better to provide for their installation in a hidden way.

When designing the ventilation of a cottage, it is important that the system complies with sanitary and epidemiological standards. It should not only cope with the supply / removal of air masses, but also work as silently as possible. Do not forget about the economy of the system. But the desire to reduce the cost of its installation should not reflect on the quality of the installation. The main task of design is the development the best option ventilation of the house, taking into account all of the above criteria.

The drafting of the project by the contractor begins with the formation of the terms of reference. It contains all the criteria by which the ventilation system should be laid, the wishes of the customer.

Calculation of ventilation in a private house

The operation of the system depends on whether the volume of air supplied and exhausted corresponds to the conditions of the house. This can be calculated using special formulas. The plan of the house is taken as a basis, in which the purpose and area of \u200b\u200beach room is indicated.

First, the air exchange rate is calculated - an indicator that determines how many times in 1 hour the air in the room is completely replaced. For most residential premises, it can be single, for kitchens, bathrooms, boiler rooms - 2-3 times. It is also necessary to take into account the people living in the house.

The air exchange rate is calculated by the formula: L(performance air handling unit, m3/h) = n(multiplicity rate for certain premises) *V(room volume).

Calculation of air exchange, taking into account the number of people living in the house, is carried out according to the formula: L = N(number of residents) * L(air intended for one person is the norm). While doing physical activity one person needs air renewal - 30 m 3 / h, in a calm state - 20 m 3 / h.

Please note: having calculated the air exchange by the multiplicity and the number of residents, they are guided by the larger of these values.

Equipment selection

Criteria by which the main installations of the system are selected:

power, performance;
operating pressure;
noise level.

The speed of movement along the highways directly depends on their cross section, as well as the power of the fan. But it should also be taken into account that the air ducts have a certain resistance, which reduces the performance of the air handling unit.

Note: performance ventilation system cottage should be within 1000-3000 m 3 / h.

At the stage of developing a feasibility study, the type, number and capacity of system elements are determined, its preliminary cost is compiled, and optimization adjustments are made. After that, a working draft is drawn up, based on high-precision calculations of air exchange, heat release concrete house. Devices and air distributors in it are selected according to.

Ventilation scheme of a frequent house

The air distribution network consists of pipes, fittings (rotary elements, splitters, adapters), distribution devices (diffusers, grilles). Based on it, you can determine:

operating pressure of the fan - it depends on technical parameters unit, type and diameter of air ducts, number of rotary and connecting elements, used air distributors. The longer the line and the more different connectors, turns, adapters on it, the more pressure the fan should create;
the speed of movement of air masses - depends on the diameter of the highways. For residential buildings, this is 2.5-4 m / s;
noise level - depends on the section of the highways and the speed of air movement along them. Quiet operation of the ventilation system will be ensured by pipes of large diameter. If it is not possible to install them, use lines with a section of 160-250 mm, equipped with distribution grids 20x20, or 20x30 cm.

According to interstate standard(GOST 21.602-2003), all elements of the ventilation system must be displayed on the diagram. They are designated by certain symbols and signed.

To make it comfortable and safe for a person, it is necessary to organize its ventilation. This will not only provide a favorable microclimate, but also extend the operational life of the structure itself. There are several types of arrangement of air exchange in rooms. The choice of a particular system depends on the area, design features house, the number of people living in it, the budget. In order for it to work effectively, it is better to entrust its planning and installation to professionals with experience in this field.

Full use of the attic is impossible without proper and effective ventilation of this space.

The attic is a residential attic that needs air circulation, like any living space at home, but to create ventilation at home with an attic, you should know some of the nuances.

This room is located above the main living rooms of the house: bedroom, living room, kitchen, shower room. In the process of human life, heat and moisture are released into the surrounding air, which, according to the laws of convection, rises up to the ceiling. The main amount of moist air masses, the ventilation system of the house removes to the atmosphere, but some of it penetrates through the micro-slots in the ceiling and enters the residential attic.

In an attic that is not equipped with ventilation, moist air masses rise to the ceiling, penetrate through the finishing materials and the ceiling, and enter the insulation, and behind it into the under-roof space. Getting into a colder zone, air saturated with water vapor turns into condensate, which settles on the roofing material, insulation and wooden structures causing them to corrode and lead to their destruction.

Regardless of whether residential attic space or not, proper ventilation prevents from:

The appearance and accumulation of excess moisture in the under-roof space.
Wet insulation, which prevents the loss of thermal insulation qualities.
Formations of colonies of fungi and foci of mold on the wooden elements of the roof.
Corrosion formation on metal roofing elements.

Ventilation of the attic above the attic saves it from overheating in the hot season, and also prevents the formation of ice on roof overhangs in winter.

Features of proper air exchange

Natural ventilation in the residential attic space is carried out through supply and exhaust openings, the area of which depends on its area, in the ratio of 0.2 m 2 /100 m 2. The inflow can be carried out through valves installed in the attic windows. Humid air is removed through aerators mounted in the roof plane or in the roof ridge.

Observing the rule of the ratio of the area of supply and exhaust openings to the area of the attic space, the attic can be ventilated through the gables. Air is supplied through wall inlet valves installed in the lower part of the pediment, and the hood is carried out through adjustable ventilation grates mounted at the top of the opposite pediment.

Ventilation of the roof and under-roof space is most often done using soffits. This device is nothing more than a perforated panel made of metal or plastic, and designed for sheathing the overhangs of the eaves. They can be used by installing around the perimeter of the house, or alternating with non-perforated panels.

Soffits as ventilation elements can only be used if, during the installation of the roofing “pie”, gaps were provided for the movement of air flows along the entire roof.

Ways to ventilate a residential attic

To date, there are several basic options for ventilation systems. Air circulation can be natural or forced. The natural movement of air masses occurs due to the difference in temperature, atmospheric and internal air. Forced movement is carried out with the help of fans, supply and (or) exhaust.

The simplest option is to use the natural inflow and exhaust of the air mixture from the attic floor. This type of air exchange is most often chosen by those who do the attic ventilation with their own hands.
With the complex geometry of the attic, you can use the method of creating excess pressure in its space using forced inflow. Thanks to this solution, the supply air masses will displace exhausted ones through natural exhaust openings, aerators, etc.
With short exhaust ducts, they may not have sufficient draft to efficient removal air from the attic. That is why many developers equip hoods with fans. The influx of air masses, in this case, can also be carried out both with the natural movement of the air flow, and with forced.
The most complex ventilation system is the mechanically driven system. With this solution, powerful exhaust fans are used, which are mounted in the space above the attic. Air is supplied by supply fans mounted in the openings of the gables.

In order for the created forced ventilation system not to create discomfort, you should know that the performance of the exhaust fans must be equal to the performance of the supply mechanisms.

The equipped attic space - the attic has gained its distribution relatively recently. A few decades ago, the owners of private houses did not think about the functionality of this special place. Now everything is different - a useful habitable area will not hurt anyone. The main thing is to create the right air exchange on it. Attic ventilation allows not only to reduce energy losses, but also to extend the life of the roof.

Attic ventilation functions

The ventilation system in a particularly hot period, it allows you to eliminate stuffiness, but in winter it effectively counteracts the ingress of cold and moisture into the room. That's why important point is correct installation do-it-yourself ventilation system, because:

the system eliminates moisture and prevents the formation of dampness in the insulation material - it is thanks to ventilation that the heat insulator retains its functionality for many years, preventing the penetration of heat and cold;
with properly created ventilation, the formation of fungus and mold is minimized, thereby eliminating the possibility of premature destruction wooden elements roofing;
in extreme heat, it prevents the penetration of hot air into the house;
prevents the accumulation of moisture, thereby preventing corrosion manifestations that adversely affect the metal tile;
eliminates the formation of icicles under the eaves in severe frosts;
saves energy resources, thereby reducing the costs required for heating a residential attic in winter.

Natural ventilation in the attic

The natural ventilation system directly depends on the correct installation insulating materials. Prerequisites laying insulation is the presence of ventilation spaces between the layers of the material used and under the roof surface. Natural ventilation is based on the creation of natural draft, due to which there is a constant flow of air masses. The total area of the ventilation ducts should be 0.2% total area attic. The simplest installation option is the output of channels through the gables. This technology can be applied to a non-stone roof element.

The size of the gap for free air exchange depends on roofing material which applies to the roof:

when using metal tiles, tiles, metal profiles, the gap must be more than 25 mm;
when applying soft materials and flat products, the space for air flow should be more than 50mm;
when installing waterproofing and insulation, the space between them should be from 20 to 30 mm.

Important! To create high-quality natural ventilation above the attic space, it is necessary to create a hermetic separation of the ventilation cavities, thanks to which the natural ventilation of the attic floor will be carried out evenly, without the formation of "dead" zones.

Installation of natural ventilation

A natural ventilation system is created during the installation of the roof. To implement air exchange, it will be necessary to install special elements responsible for air exchange under the roof. For air flow, soffits are used, which are installed around the perimeter of the building. Thanks to the perforated surface, air enters the attic. To remove the exhaust air, point or continuous aerators are used, which are installed on the roof slope.

Special aerators are mounted on the ridge. It is thanks to ridge aerators that the efficiency of all natural ventilation increases, because the area of \u200b\u200bthe outlet surfaces of the elements is much larger than that of ordinary ones. The number of aerators is calculated in individually and depends on the total area of \u200b\u200bthe roof. 2 aerators are installed per 100 m2 of area to be ventilated.

Important! Natural ventilation functions flawlessly only in the cold season, since air exchange requires a difference in temperature between the street and indoors. That is why ventilation mansard roof requires installation compulsory system for air exchange.

Residential attic ventilation with dormer windows

The dormer window is installed in accordance with SNiP II-26, SNiP 21-01:

mounting dormer windows possible with a roof slope of more than 35 degrees;
the minimum leaf size is 0.6x0.8 m;
the allowable size of dormer windows is 1.2x0.8 m.

The shapes of dormer windows in a private house can be different and depend on the style of the building. Dormer windows are mounted using frames during the construction of the roof, making up a complete structure. Ventilation with dormer windows improves the aesthetics of the roof, its functionality.

For a shed roof, windows with one inclined plane are ideal. Mounting scheme: 2 beams are located at the distance required by SNiP and are fixed with uprights connected at the top with a jumper. The outer sides are sheathed with facing material, a decorative grille is installed on the side of the facade.

System with one ventilated gap

When arranging the ventilation system of a shed roof, it is worth considering that the size of the ventilation duct directly depends on the length of the slopes and the angle of the roof.

According to SNiP II-26-76:

the height of the gap is no more than 5 cm, an increase in the indicators of which can lead to the formation of turbulence, which will significantly reduce air exchange;
with a coating length of more than 10 m, forced ventilation is required;
ventilation system openings must be reliably protected from debris.

Forced attic ventilation

When installing forced air exchange, a fan is installed in the ventilation duct. It is especially necessary to install the device in the presence of short ventilation ducts that are not able to provide high-quality traction. When installing the fan in country house the air supply is installed in the same way as with a natural system. The roof fan is installed from the outside at a distance of more than 8 m from the supply openings. It is also very important that the installation of the fan is not carried out close to the windows, as exhaust air can be sucked into them.

The performance of a fan installed on the roof depends on:

impeller dimensions: larger diameter - higher performance;
the angle of the blades: the larger it is, the large quantity air will be recycled;
electric motor power.

The best way to improve performance is to install multiple fans. Using a powerful cooler is impractical.

Important! To prevent the formation of condensate, the fan must be insulated with special materials, for example, by applying mineral wool.

The attic ventilation system is a very important element in creating comfortable conditions in the house. It must be installed in accordance with regulatory requirements construction industry. As a rule, the ventilation system is developed at the design stage of the building itself and is installed at the time of the construction of the roof.

From the author: hello dear friends! It has long been known that a properly equipped ventilation system is the key to a comfortable and healthy life. After all, the microclimate is of great importance. That is why today we will talk about how ventilation is arranged in a two-story private house.

Strictly speaking, the layout of the system does not change much depending on the number of floors. The only difference is that when using forced ventilation, it is necessary to use more powerful equipment for two-storey cottage than for a single storey. This is due, first of all, to the volume of air available in the house.

In general, the methods are not too different. And certainly for a house of any number of storeys, it is necessary to approach the issue equally competently. Oddly enough, among some owners of suburban dwellings there is an opinion that private buildings do not at all need special organized system air exchange. Especially often such doubts arise if the house is built from "breathing" materials - for example, from wood.

But let's look at the big picture objectively. Think about it, because you are unlikely to leave the erected walls bare. They will most likely be placed with an insulating layer, and then with a finish, giving the building a beautiful and aesthetic appearance. All of these additions will definitely cut off access to fresh air, which otherwise could pass through the walls.

Even if you are planning to build a house from wood that does not require finishing, keep in mind that modern lumber has completely different qualities than the wood that was used in the good old days. Now the material is impregnated with various compounds designed to protect it from harmful effects external environment. In addition, timber is often glued. All these substances tightly clog the pores, so there is simply no possibility for air exchange.

Also, do not forget about double-glazed windows, which are everywhere installed on windows. Previously, ordinary wooden frames with glasses. They had wonderful gaps in their design, through which fresh air successfully circulated in the direction of the house and back.

In general, there are a lot of arguments in favor of arranging a ventilation system. Let's finally start looking at how this can be organized.

Type of ventilation

First of all, it is worth understanding two types of air exchange. It can be natural or forced. Each option has certain advantages and disadvantages, so let's look at them in more detail.

Natural air exchange

Natural ventilation is called ventilation, which does not require the installation of any equipment designed to stimulate the movement of air. Simply put, air masses lead a completely independent life. To remove the exhaust air, ventilation shafts are provided - in other words, channels cut into the ceiling and wall that go to the roof.

The air that has been in the house becomes warm. As everyone knows from school physics lessons, in this case it starts to rise up. This is what they are designed for, the entrance to which is located in the upper part of the room. Air masses reach them naturally, and then follow the shaft up, leaving the pipe to the street.

With this, everything is clear. But as you know, the amount of air that has left the house must somehow be replenished. And here lies the problem. It has already been discussed in detail above that modern walls and double-glazed windows make the dwelling a real fortress, into which the enemy, perhaps, will penetrate, but fresh air will definitely not.

The problem can be solved in two ways:

ventilation. Everyone seems to know how this is done - if it becomes stuffy in the house, you need to open the window. In fact, when stuffiness sets in, your brain has already begun to get tired and experience oxygen starvation. This should not be allowed, since such situations often repeated can seriously harm health. For example, it is fraught with migraines - rather unpleasant conditions that are difficult to get rid of. So, in order not to bring yourself to oxygen starvation, you need to do airing not on the fact of the onset of stuffiness, but at a certain frequency - every three hours. The duration of the procedure is 15 minutes. The problem is that not every family has a person who will agree to stay at home all day long to periodically open the window. As a rule, most people work, so in the evenings they have to return to their dwelling with stale air;
use of an inlet valve. This simple equipment is an excellent alternative to ventilation. The supply valve is installed either in the window or in the wall. It consists, in fact, of an air duct, through which air masses circulate. The equipment is designed in such a way that its installation does not affect the occurrence of drafts or temperature changes in the home. Thus, there is no need to constantly open the window - freshness and oxygen flow continuously through the supply valve.

But even the use of a supply valve is not able to solve the main problem of natural ventilation. This is a low air exchange rate. The fact is that, regardless of the method of fresh air intake, it depends on some external factors. First of all, on the air temperature outside and inside the room.

To ensure at least a relatively normal air exchange rate, it is necessary that it be cold outside and hot in the house. The smaller the temperature difference, the slower the air exchange. But what then happens in the summer, when it is equally hot outside and indoors? Never mind. There is simply no air exchange, or it is, but at such a level that there is no sense.

In principle, natural ventilation can be more or less suitable for small houses - there is a small amount of air, the change of which does not take so much time. But since today we are talking about two-story buildings, we immediately dismiss this option for the reasons described above.

Forced air exchange

But this method is the one that is suitable for consideration as an application in a private house of any number of storeys. In this case, the air circulation is affected by the use of special equipment, which is installed either in the shaft, or on the roof, or in one of the non-residential premises - for example, on the attic floor. Also available separately standing devices, which will be discussed below.

Forced ventilation options

The arrangement of a forced air exchange system is a fairly broad topic, so it is necessary to consider it in as much detail as possible. You should start with what this method is divided into three types: supply, exhaust and supply and exhaust ventilation.

Supply equipment

supply ventilation equipment Responsible for pumping fresh air into the house. At the same time, the spent waste comes out naturally through all the same exhaust shafts. This principle is based on the difference in density between cold and warm air.

The first, getting into the room, has a denser structure due to its temperature, it is heavier and is located first in the floor area. Due to these properties, it pushes out the already heated exhaust air masses. Those rise up and go out through the ventilation ducts.

Then the process is repeated. Cold air in, the old one out. In general, natural ventilation works on the same principle. But forced is characterized by a high injection rate, due to which the intensity of air exchange increases dramatically.

For the equipment of such a system, there are two most popular type devices:

supply valves. Yes, they have already been mentioned in a conversation about natural air exchange. But in this case, these devices also have a fan in their design, which is responsible for forcing air into the room. Despite this, the device is still quite simple. An air duct is laid inside the wall, into which the fan is installed. From the side of the room, the structure is closed with a lid, and outside the building - with a protective grill, the purpose of which is to create a barrier in the way of precipitation, debris, small rodents and various living creatures, which have absolutely nothing to do in a decent house. Installation of the supply valve is very simple: just drill the wall with a puncher, then clean the hole, place the air duct in it and assemble the entire structure;
breather. In fact, this is the same supply valve, but with extended functionality. There is also an air duct, a fan and protective grilles. But in the kit they also come with some “chips” that are responsible for the comfort of people living in the house. For example, these include temperature and humidity sensors, with which the equipment can automatically start when necessary. In addition, a small convector is built into many breathers, which heats the air entering the house in the current mode. Thus, the temperature level in the room does not change in any way - this is both comfortable and saves on heating resources.

Extraction equipment

Another option for arranging a forced ventilation system is to use exhaust equipment. It is installed, as a rule, in places with an increased need for air removal. This, of course, is a sanitary unit and a kitchen room.

In the first case, the need is mainly due to high level humidity. If you do not fight it in any way, then over time it will lead to damage to the finishing materials, as well as to the formation of mold, which is directly harmful to health.

The kitchen also needs air removal for obvious reasons: this is grease, and high humidity, and not always pleasant smells. And sometimes it happens that the food is burnt, and you need to get rid of these flavors as quickly as possible.

For such cases, set kitchen hood- equipment that is located above the stove and is connected to ventilation shaft. A fan is located inside the device, which is responsible for the retraction and further removal of air masses along with odors and humidity.

In the bathroom and toilet, the role of exhaust equipment is also performed by a fan, which is installed at the inlet to the ventilation duct and is closed with a protective grille. It helps to quickly normalize the level of humidity in the room.

The disadvantage of the exhaust forced ventilation system is the same modest amount of incoming fresh air. This has already been discussed many times today, so we will not repeat ourselves. But the problem isn't going anywhere. This is especially true for two-story houses, in which the volume of air is quite large. He just won't be able to fill up. Therefore, for this case, it is worth considering the third method of arranging the ventilation system.

Supply and exhaust equipment

From the name it is clear that the devices installed within the framework of such a system are responsible for both the supply and exhaust of air. Most often this is achieved by combining different devices. For example, breathers can be installed as a quality, and exhaust devices can be placed in the kitchen and bathroom.

This approach solves two problems at once. Firstly, the required intensity of air exchange is achieved. Secondly, you can fully control the volume of both incoming and outgoing air masses.

In addition, there are special devices double action- supply and exhaust. As a rule, they are equipped with recuperators. This element is designed to retain thermal energy from recycled air and release it to fresh air as it arrives.

Agree that such savings on heating in a large house is very helpful. You will kill two birds with one stone: you will gain a healthy microclimate, and you will not disturb the temperature regime in the room.

Of course, supply and exhaust ventilation costs much more than other systems. First, the equipment itself costs a lot. Secondly, all devices are connected to the mains and consume a certain amount of electricity during operation.

The latter factor, by the way, is the main disadvantage of forced ventilation, regardless of what type of ventilation is used. Dependence on electricity leads to the fact that in the event of a power outage, all equipment will simply stand up.

So it is recommended to be puzzled in advance by purchasing and installing a backup generator. It will be useful to you to maintain the efficiency of not only the ventilation, but also the heating system in case of force majeure.

As for the installation of equipment for forced ventilation, it is not so complicated. You can read about how to do the installation with your own hands in the articles on our website dedicated to this topic. Once you have the information you need, you'll be fine. Good luck!