Ventilation in a house made of Sibit is not needed. Ventilation in aerated concrete house: device, requirements and norms. Supply valve installation

If in the future gas, then the chimney of the boiler and the ventilation of the boiler room must be done immediately according to the requirements of the gas workers.
And immediately, when building a house, sleeve the channels. Especially the chimney. And best of all, everything

If you put a fan on each channel, then where supply air"appear" to replace the remote?
You won't keep the windows open all the time...

As for the exhaust channels.
In addition to the kitchen and bathrooms, you also have those. rooms, closets. there is something else (this is what I could read from the small text) These rooms, in a good way, also need to be ventilated.

Ideally, with such areas of the house it is better to use mechanical ventilation. Less problems whether it will work or not.
But it can also be natural. But then you can’t get by with channels for the kitchen and bathroom.

And in any case, it is better for a specialist to indicate everything related to the ventilation system and not an architect. Their solutions are always standard and correspond to the proposals of a hundred years ago.

No one will really tell you anything.
You must first understand all your "Wishlist". You give them in doses.

Even now.
You write that "... conditional modes: summer, 20 outside 20 inside; ..."
But do not write anything about the region where the house will stand. A lot will depend on this.
Let's say that the location is such that you have no lower than -5 in winter and no higher than +20 in summer.
In this case, everything is very simple. Heat up the air and don't heat up in summer.

And if you live somewhere that is -30 in winter and +30 in summer, then in addition to heating and not heating, you will also need cooling.

Etc.

So...
Information:
Region - Moscow region.
Wishes - less capital investment, assuming high operating costs (therefore, recovery is not an option).
4 adults and 2 children will live in the house
Aerated concrete house cold attic. Two floors. Ceilings everywhere 2.85

Now the notes:
1. I want to do air exchange in dressing rooms through overflow grilles
2. Inflow - either through the window, or through the supply valves of the KIV type, or through the supply valves to the formation. windows (I will be grateful for the recommendation on this matter).
3. Hood - a recommendation is needed (in fact, that's why I wrote the question).

Questions:
1. Why sleeve channels? I just want a vent. channels inside internal walls from aerated concrete. Sleeve - is it necessary? What are the benefits?
2. Regarding the chimney - I want a stainless steel chimney, "pipe in pipe", between pipes basalt wool. On the first floor, in the boiler room, it will go without any finishing. On the second floor, through the bathroom - I want to sew up the plasterboard, tiles on top. Through the cold attic - I think, too, without everything, just the chimney itself. What do you think of such a decision?
3. Well, in general - how would you recommend organizing a ventilation system? What channel sizes to accept? For example, which channel to take to a bathroom with an area of ​​​​3-4m2? Which one to take in a living room of 30m2?

Good ventilation, as you know, allows not only to feel comfortable in your own home, but also prevents the appearance of fungus and mold in it, as well as the unpleasant smell of dampness.

Houses made of aerated concrete blocks especially need ventilation, because they are usually built quickly and at an affordable price, and after completion of the work it turns out that the air exchange in the premises is not sufficient, and the temperature does not meet the established standards.

Of course, if you order turnkey construction of aerated concrete houses from professionals, you can avoid such difficulties, but most often the problem with ventilation still has to be solved on your own. From this article you will learn everything about installation ventilation system in a concrete house.

Necessary equipment

To create a normal air exchange and maintain optimal performance temperature and humidity in the house, the following equipment should be installed:

• Ventilation shaft on the roof providing natural air ventilation.
• Fans, as well as supply and supply and exhaust systems.
• Compressor-condenser unit for providing air conditioning.
• Fire damper and air damper to remove smoke, if necessary.
• Automation for air conditioning systems.
• Air ducts and silencers.

Despite the fact that the permeability of aerated concrete walls is not high enough, by installing such a system it is possible to provide comfortable conditions to stay at home.

It is immediately worth noting that you can improve the air circulation in your home with the help of supply valves. They can be of two types:

• Window valves.
• Those that are built into the wall.

The first type of valve cannot always be installed independently for technical reasons, but it is quite possible to install a window valve yourself. Exhaust fans it is always necessary to choose taking into account the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe premises, while, Special attention it is worth paying attention to the power of the fan.

With no less responsibility should be taken to the choice of equipment supply and exhaust system: calculate the required sections ventilation shafts, as well as the length of the blowers. In addition, it is worth deciding on the location of the supply and exhaust valves. To do this, you need to draw up a ventilation scheme for the house.

Ventilation channels in country house look in the video:

The main element of the natural ventilation system of housing is the general house ventilation ducts, through which stagnant and polluted air is removed outside the premises. AT apartment buildings ventilation ducts must be built during the construction of the house, they are carried out from the basement to the roof of the building and have access to all apartments.

During the construction of private houses, little attention is often paid to the laying of ventilation ducts. They save on the air exchange system, replace it with pipes and take away not enough space in the wall for laying ventilation channels. This leads to air stagnation and can be unsafe when using gas heating boilers.

In this material we will tell you how to make bricks, foam blocks and aerated concrete with your own hands.

Natural ventilation channel in a private house: placement rules

The ventilation ducts are an exhaust natural system ventilation. The air inflow in it is carried out through leaky windows and doors, as well as through special channels in the walls. The air from the street passes through all the rooms and is discharged into the common house ventilation duct, which has branches throughout the house.

In a private house made of brick or aerated concrete, the laying of ventilation ducts should be provided for the following rooms:

• bathroom;
• bathroom or shower room;
• kitchen;
• garage;
• cellar;
• boiler room.

It is in these rooms that there is a high content of moisture, heat and various pollution in the air. For safety reasons, special attention should be paid to the ventilation of the boiler room and adjacent rooms - gas accumulates in this place.

Air ducts in a brick house

Masonry ventilation ducts made of bricks are the most common way to organize air exchange in private homes. The brick does not collapse under the influence of hot air, pollution does not form on its walls and moisture does not settle, so the material is often used to organize chimneys and air ducts.

The ventilation duct is a solid vertical structure, going to a mark above the roof. It is important to organize a constant movement of air masses in the mine; for this, turns and irregularities inside the duct should be avoided.

Brick for ventilation ducts is resistant to moisture and hot air. As a bonding solution, a mixture of sand and cement, diluted with water, is used.

Dimensions are usually 12 × 15 cm, for brick structures- 12 × 25 cm. The wall thickness should not be less than 10 cm. Since the brick ventilation shaft has big weight and creates a strong load, it is installed directly on the foundation of the building.

Stages of work on laying brick ventilation

Installation process brickwork do-it-yourself happens using a template that can be made from plywood or chipboard sheet. This piece is square or rectangular shape, depending on the cross-sectional shape of the future duct. The length of the template is 8-10 bricks in thickness.

The laying of ventilation ducts made of bricks is made from the corner of the wall. The first air duct is created after 2 layers of bricks have been laid. To focus on the template during operation, it must be installed vertically with a plumb line. Between the two channels, a distance of one brick wide should be left.

Bricks must be mounted end-to-end, and excess mortar removed with a spatula. Rows are stacked with a slight shift relative to the previous row. After laying out 5-7 rows of bricks, it is necessary to transfer the plywood template.
If a chimney is located next to the ventilation duct, between them there should be a solid brickwork with a thickness of 40 cm or more. This will avoid mixing air flows and getting combustion products into the ventilation system.

Ventilation shaft in houses made of aerated concrete and foam concrete

Ventilation in a house made of aerated concrete has its own organization features. Aerated concrete is an unsuitable material for the construction of a mine - it absorbs moisture, gases, is exposed to high temperatures. Therefore, in houses made of aerated concrete, other materials and devices should be used to organize air ducts:

• laying out the channel and adjacent brick walls;
• lining the mine with stable pipes made of metal, asbestos, plastic;
• installation of a galvanized box sheathed with aerated concrete blocks.

Brick ventilation ducts in such buildings are built according to the same rules as for brick buildings, however, special attention must be paid to the stability of the structure. For reliability, it is necessary to overlay the walls adjacent to the mine with bricks in order to create a support.

The installation of a ventilation duct in an aerated concrete wall can be made using the sleeve method. It consists in fixing the outlet in the lower block and distributing the system from this channel. For docking, air ducts are installed in the holes of aerated concrete blocks. Channels can be made of plastic, asbestos cement or galvanized steel. It is also recommended to insulate it in the upper part facing the roof of the house.

In some cases, another method of making do-it-yourself air ducts is also used. At the same time, the system consists of channels laid under the ceiling of the rooms, which merge into one shaft under the roof of the house, where stale air is removed. The construction of such a structure is cheaper, but it is less efficient due to the horizontal direction of the channels and low bandwidth. In addition, such a scheme is not applicable to two or three-story private buildings.

In a private house made of foam blocks, when installing ventilation ducts, the same rules are used as in buildings made of aerated concrete. This is due to the fact that foam blocks are very unstable to moisture and low temperatures. For the installation of air ducts in such houses, pipes made of PVC, asbestos cement and metal, as well as brick structures, are used.

Requirements for the organization of ventilation ducts and mine parameters

For efficient and safe work, ventilation ducts in brick and aerated concrete masonry must meet the following requirements:

• When removing the shaft above the roof next to the ridge, the exhaust ventilation opening should be half a meter above the level of the ridge.
• If the hood hole is located 2-3 meters from the ridge, it can be on the same level with it.
• When the distance to the ridge exceeds 3 meters, the mouth should be at an angle of 10 ° relative to the horizon and with the apex on the roof ridge.

Technical requirements require the mandatory organization of ventilation ducts in those rooms where there are no windows (bathrooms, toilets, boiler rooms). It is also recommended to install a hood in the kitchen to avoid the accumulation of steam and smoke in the air.

Ventilation ducts can work effectively at air temperatures from +12 °C outside and +20 °C inside the house. When the structure cools, the process of ventilation and air removal slows down, therefore, those parts of the mine that are brought out into the street (pipes on the roof) should be insulated.

The section of the shaft must be the same along its entire length in order to improve traction inside the structure. When constructing a ventilation duct for blocks, bends should be avoided; the angle of inclination of the pipe should not exceed 30 ° relative to the walls. If the shaft is made of brick, it should be laid as evenly as possible, and the seams between the rows smoothed out.

It is necessary to approach the organization of ventilation in aerated concrete from the position that this construction material It has low strength and high hygroscopicity. Therefore, it is very important to comply with all norms for the proper construction of the ventilation system. What are the three main construction options:

1. With a galvanized iron box.
2. With the installation of metal or plastic pipes.
3. By constructing a ventilation duct using brickwork.

In the aerated concrete itself, it is forbidden to build a ventilation shaft without additional protective structures. Because it quickly absorbs moisture, losing its already low strength characteristics.

Why do you need ventilation in the house

So, a house built from gas blocks is a budget option, quickly erected and with good thermal insulation characteristics. But, as mentioned above, this material has a high hygroscopicity, that is, it quickly absorbs moisture. And even if the walls of the house were finished from the inside plaster mortars, this does not mean that it is one hundred percent protection against negative impact moisture. It penetrates the wall and causes peeling finishing materials from the base.

At the same time, penetrating into the body of aerated concrete blocks, wet vapors reduce their bearing capacity. Therefore, in such a house ventilation is necessary. It must work well with exact compliance with the air exchange rates for each room separately.

And, of course, the ventilation system of an aerated concrete house is a network that will change the indoor air to fresh air from the street, remove unpleasant odors.

Kinds

In principle, any type of ventilation system can be used in a house made of gas silicate blocks. Is this ventilation natural or forced. They differ from each other in the presence (in the second) of fans, which form the inflow and exhaust of air masses.

Natural

Air exchange during natural ventilation is carried out by the natural movement of the air flow due to the temperature difference in the street and inside the house. That is, there is a physical movement warm air up. That is why ventilation ducts are installed in such a way that their inlets are located as high as possible, closer to the ceiling.

At the same time, earlier air flow occurred through leaks, cracks and gaps in wooden windows and entrance doors. Today, with the use of airtight window and door structures that possibility simply ceased to exist. Therefore, manufacturers of ventilation systems began to offer all kinds of devices, with the help of which it became possible to organize a natural flow of air.

1. Air valves installed in the walls of the house. The best option for many buildings, including aerated concrete.
2. Air valves installed in window PVC structures models. There are several varieties from traditional slotted to new ones in the form of a handle for opening the window sash. Depending on the room in the house of aerated concrete blocks, one of the types is used, taking into account air exchange. For example, handle valves have small area holes, which does not allow them to be used in large rooms. Most often they go like auxiliary option, an addition to the wall model.

It is very important - natural ventilation will work only if the ventilation duct is clean and free of debris. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure that its mine is always clean. Today, more and more often they are moving away from ventilation shafts located inside walls or in the form of boxes that go out vertical pipe outside the roof. As practice shows, no one monitors such channels, so over time they begin to work inefficiently.

Today, a variant is used with the construction of holes in aerated concrete walls for both air inflow and air extraction. That is, air valves are installed in each room: one at the top under the ceiling, through which the outflow of air masses will be made, the second at the bottom - through it the inflow will be made fresh air. This option makes it possible to avoid the construction of a ventilation duct inside the walls, which will ensure their guaranteed strength.

Forced

Forced ventilation in an aerated concrete house is, in fact, the same scheme as that of a natural one, only a fan is installed in it, which ensures the most efficient removal of air from the premises. There are three options for organizing ventilation:

1. Supply - this is when the fan is installed on the supply duct. A good option, but here it must be taken into account that the fan operates with a certain discharge, which causes the formation of air movement at a low speed. Therefore, it is very important to correctly find the installation location of the fan or place it so that the air flow does not move perpendicular to the wall, but along it. Therefore, caps with inside premises. This cap with slots along the wall organizes the flow along the wall planes.
2. Exhaust - the most common scheme. In fact, this is a fan that works on the hood. It is installed in the wall or mounted on the plane of the wall in which it is made through hole. In the first case, channel models of fans are used - this is a pipe in which the fan is installed. It closes on the inside and outside. decorative grille. In the second case, this wall model installed from the side of the room. It is attached to the wall in the place where the through hole is made. Basic requirements for fans of this type- a precisely matched device in terms of performance, which must comply with air exchange standards. For example, in the kitchen it is necessary to install a fan with a capacity of 60 m / h, in the bathroom 25, in living rooms 30.
3. Supply and exhaust. This is when fans are installed both in the supply and in the exhaust. Today, manufacturers offer whole blocks of this type of equipment, which are assembled in the attic in the form of air ducting for rooms entering through the ceiling, and a fan installation. Such blocks are additionally equipped with filters, recuperators, heaters. For small houses monoblocks of small sizes are offered from aerated concrete.

mixed system

Under this name, ventilation is used, which is divided into rooms. That is, in one the natural scheme works, in the other one of the forced ones. Most often, a natural air exchange scheme is installed in residential premises, in the kitchen, in the bathroom, toilet, pantry and boiler room - forced. At the same time, a house hood is more often used in these rooms with the installation of supply channels.

Pay attention to the fact that kitchen hood. In houses made of aerated concrete, it is better to install exhaust model with the removal of polluted air through a wall or window to the street. it additional unit, which will increase air exchange inside the house and specifically in the kitchen. Installation of a recirculation model is not recommended.

Regulations

As for the standards, here, as mentioned above, it is necessary to be based on the requirements sanitary norms. And they are based on the exchange of air in one hour. Every room has different standards. Some of them have already been said and indicated in numerical terms.

The main thing is that in order to make the ventilation in the house of aerated concrete work efficiently, these normative indicators must be strictly observed. With fans it is easier, knowing their performance, you can easily choose a device that meets the standard. FROM natural ventilation more difficult, because it is just two holes, the size of the section of which will determine the volume of exhaust air.

For example, a pipe with a diameter of 150 mm creates an air exchange equal to 30 m³ / h. That is, for a bathroom, toilet and living room, one such hole will be sufficient for the exchange of air mass to comply with the standard. But it must be taken into account that the hood depends not only on the cross-sectional area of ​​the channel, but also on other factors. For example, on the strength of the wind on the street, the temperature inside and outside the house, on how much exhaust pipe was raised above the roof of the building. And all this must be taken into account when creating a ventilation system.

Optimal ventilation system for aerated concrete house

Let's start again with a reminder that gas silicate blocks have high hygroscopicity. Which means best option construction of the ventilation system in such a house is the installation of vertical channels and shafts. Let it be difficult to install the ventilation duct, let it take a lot of time and money, but perfect option exactly this one.

Installation air valves into the walls gas silicate house- this is a high probability, firstly, to reduce the bearing capacity of the wall, and secondly, it becomes possible for moisture to penetrate into the body of gas blocks when warm air from the premises comes into contact with cold outside. That is, the appearance of condensate - real opportunity. And this is again moisture, which destroys aerated concrete.

Therefore, an additional three options are offered that will help to avoid trouble.

1. Use only supply scheme with a conclusion through the central risers.
2. Use materials for insulating air exhaust valves. By the way, many manufacturers today do just that. Their models use cylindrical shape thermal insulation material which is inserted inside the valve. It also provides protection of the wall from the appearance of condensate.
3. Use as supply units only window structures.

By the way, the supply ventilation system proved to be much better in this situation than the exhaust one. But many craftsmen have found their way out of a difficult situation. For example, to install a valve with a diameter of 100 mm, a hole with a diameter of 130-150 mm was made in the wall. the valve was installed in the wall, and the gap between it and the wall was filled mounting foam. The latter is polyurethane foam with high thermal insulation characteristics.

Another option that is well suited for aerated concrete houses is a system with recuperation or with calorific heating of the incoming air. That is, cold air before getting into interior spaces and pass through the wall, gaining heat, which by itself eliminates the formation of condensate. True, it should be noted that such ventilation systems are very expensive, and besides, they are energy-intensive, so you will have to pay electricity bills all the time.

Calculation and design

Let's look at how you can calculate the ventilation system using an example one-story house from gas blocks. We will take into account that the house uses natural air exchange, where the hood is installed in the kitchen, bathroom and toilet. And the inflow is made in three living rooms. It turns out that for the calculation it is necessary to take into account either the supply volume, taking into account the standard, or the exhaust volume. Therefore, both indicators are first calculated, and the larger one is selected from them.

1. The house has three living rooms with with total area 100 m² and a ceiling height of 3 m. In them, the air exchange according to the norms is 30 m³ / hour. That is, general meaning– 90 m³/hour.
2. Now there are three rooms where the hood comes from: kitchen - 60 m³ / h, bathroom and toilet 25 each. That is, the total air outflow will be 110 m³ / h.

Of the two values, the larger one is 110. So, we take it for calculation. Now we need to turn to the tabular value, which is based on two indicators: the height of the hood, let it be equal to 4 m, taking into account the height of the roof, and the temperature inside the rooms is + 20C. For these two values, a channel with an area of ​​​​204 cm² (0.2 m²) is suitable, which passes 46 m³ of air mass through itself in one hour.

Now you can find out how many ventilation ducts of this size are required to exhaust air in a volume of 110 m³. For this you need to do one mathematical action: 110/46 \u003d 2.4, rounded up, we get "3". This is the number of necessary ventilation ducts installed: one in the kitchen, the second in the bathroom, the third in the toilet.

DIY ventilation device

Installation of the ventilation system aerated concrete house is a difficult process. If you are not a builder, then you cannot master it with your own hands. The thing is that the ventilation duct is assembled in place with the wall. More often it is raised inside the wall by installing a box or pipe.

There is an option to assemble the ventilation system, which is formed outside structural elements buildings. To do this, you need to collect modular system in the attic with the installation of a fan and ductwork. In principle, there is nothing complicated in the assembly. It will not be easy to make holes in the ceilings, insert pipes there. To do this, use a perforator with diamond crown. And here again, if you are not a builder, then it is better not to do it yourself.

Supply valve installation

The easiest option is . Gas blocks - the material is soft and porous, so drilling holes in them will not be great work. This can be done not only with a crown, but also conventional drill, by making several holes of small diameter in the wall, located along a circle that defines the contours of the future through hole.

In principle, a natural ventilation system in an aerated concrete house can be assembled from air ducts with their removal outside the building. How to do it right.

Installation of ventilation ducts

How is the process of assembling ventilation ducts in a house made of aerated concrete with your own hands.

1. First of all, the scheme of installation of air ducts is determined. If this is one system, then the highway will capture all service premises one air duct, held under the ceiling in a horizontal direction.
2. The cross section of the duct is determined based on the calculation of the volume of exhaust air.
3. According to the scheme, the number of fittings and straight sections is calculated, with the designation of the length of the latter for each section.
4. Purchased necessary materials including fasteners.
5. It is better to start assembly from the side of the outermost room.
6. It will be necessary to make holes for the diameter of the duct in each wall separating the rooms from each other.
7. Assembly is carried out on clamps, if these are metal air ducts, or on couplings, if they are plastic.
8. The outlet pipe is usually displayed through the kitchen, or rather through the wall associated with the street.
9. In all rooms, windows for the hood are made in the air duct, which are closed with bars.

Exhaust fan installation

If this is a channel model, then it is simply inserted into the wall into the hole that is made for the hood. If this is a wall model, then it is attached to the wall from the inside of the room. In the bathrooms, the latter option is used. The fan will work correctly if it is set exactly horizontally, meaning its shaft with an impeller.

Popular Mistakes

There are many errors that may be present in the construction of the ventilation system of a house from gas blocks.

1. Cannot ventilate bearing wall, this will weaken its strength.
2. In the boiler room, it is necessary to install both the supply valve and the exhaust valve at the same time.
3. If the room is separated from the room where the ventilation duct is installed by two doors, it is necessary to install both the supply and exhaust valves.
4. A shaft of small section is installed, which cannot provide air exchange, calculated according to the standards sanitary requirements. The minimum cross section of the channel is 0.016 m², which corresponds to a pipe diameter of 150 mm.

The comfort of living in a house or apartment is highly dependent on the correct ventilation settings: it not only freshens the air, but also removes moisture and odors, preventing the appearance of fungus and mold. They especially need it aerated concrete walls, which strongly absorb the air with all the substances in it. The constant accumulation of moisture in the room leads to deformation of the outer layer of the walls, which increases thermal conductivity, as well as the formation of cracks in the cold season.

Depending on the purpose, it is divided into subgroups according to four criteria:

• air movement factor: natural and mechanical;
• in the direction of air movement: supply and exhaust;
• by the size of the service area: general exchange and local;
• according to the method of execution: channel and channelless.

There are natural systems in every house and apartment: they are driven by the pressure difference between a specific floor of the building and exhaust device on the roof. The disadvantages are obvious: when the wind direction changes, the exhaust duct turns into a supply duct, which is not always necessary. The problem is solved by installing a mechanical turbine or a fan on an electric drive.

Strengthen the ventilation effect, for example, in the attic of the gas block will help installation supply device, which will be located at the level of the first floor. It will be very useful due to the input power control and the ability to install additional modules responsible for cleaning, disinfecting, heating or cooling the air.

Local systems are only designed to circulate air in a specific place: for example, above the stove in the kitchen or in small office. General exchanges are aimed at uniform inflow / outflow simultaneously throughout the room.

In duct ventilation, air circulates through channels into a single hole, usually located in the attic ceiling of a building. In ductless systems, fans are placed in through wall openings. They are much cheaper than channel ones, but they let through a large number of heat outside. A good price / quality ratio has a mechanical channelless design in the form of a wall module: it can adjust the power and switch the flow direction. also successful and modern choice there will be a purchase of window valves - they are easy to install, do not require maintenance.

Lack of mechanical systems only one: an increased price to purchase, install and operate. Usually, within the walls of a house built of aerated concrete, all of the above types are combined in different rooms for effective removal of gases, moisture, heat.

Hood layout

The holes for the channels are thought out even on the diagram before the construction of the building, and in the future it will be a huge problem to change them. They must be in the following places:

• kitchen;
• bathroom;
• attic;
• bathroom;
• boiler room and room above it;
• garage;
• swimming pool, bath.

Channels from all rooms go to the attic or attic, where they are hermetically combined, insulated and taken out to the roof. In houses made of aerated concrete, it is not recommended to lay a ventilation duct during outer walls- this will lead to a serious loss of heat. For these purposes, a special shaft must be equipped, or space must be freed up in the internal walls.

It is better to make an air duct made of plastic, steel or asbestos cement and insert it into a galvanized box, sheathed on all sides with gas blocks. It is believed that the most effective is plastic, because almost no condensation forms on its walls. To make the channel exit stands on the roof of the building, and at its end there should be only a cone or deflector. It is not recommended to decorate in any way.

Another important task is to preserve as much as possible more warmth inside the house. One of the main problems modern houses- large heat losses due to ill-conceived air exchange design. Two things will help you do this:

• good sealing of the air duct;
• the presence of water heaters.

Air exchange system device

Often, residents see only a hood and grate, but even the simplest ventilation in an aerated concrete house consists of many components:

1. check valves: they allow air to move only in the required direction. This is useful in winter when you need to keep the cold out of the street.

2. Filters - there are different purposes: the simplest protect against dust, insects and other debris from the street.

3. Heaters - run on water or one electric heating element. Often their installation in houses is not economically viable.

4. Silencers - this is usually silent pipes lined with sound-absorbing material from the inside. It is recommended to install them near the fans.

5. Fans - there are two types: axial and radial. The first ones are intended for air inlet / outlet into the room, the second ones - for creating pressure in complex channels.

6. Pumps, compressors - create pressure. Needed only for large multi-storey systems air exchange.

7. The recuperator is an optional but useful element. He does main job for heat conservation, returning to the room up to 2/3 of the heat energy lost during ventilation.

8. Air distributors - only for large rooms. They serve to evenly distribute the incoming flow throughout the space.

The system can be automated by adding temperature sensors and electronic control systems to it. This, for example, will allow fans and valves to automatically change the direction of flow.

How to avoid mistakes?

It often happens that the ventilation of a private house from a gas block does not suit the residents, for example:

• damp walls, mold grows;
• windows fog up;
• drafts appear when closed doors and windows;
• works too weakly or too strongly;
• small cracks form in gas blocks;
• The hood is noisier than it should be.

1. The outlet of the air duct should not obscure anything, but it should be located on the roof.

2. The channel diagram should have as many straight lines as possible: each turn reduces the efficiency of the exhaust system by 10%.

3. Common problem: the wind blows out other people's unpleasant odors. The presence of fans operating in the "inflow" and "blowing" modes will help to cope with it.

4. If possible, install forced ventilation. Passive exhaust grilles almost do not work in summer, and in winter they pull out too much and depend on the direction and strength of the wind.

5. Installation of silencers is useful when a noisy hood is working.

6. The presence of a fire damper will allow you to quickly remove smoke if necessary.

7. It is better to entrust the master to make a drawing of the air exchange system. A serious mistake in the design can reduce the efficiency of the hood to almost zero. Only grills, valves, exhaust outlets, fans and other small elements are mounted independently.

8. The length of the channels in all rooms must be equal or equalized with the help of gratings. Violation of this rule will lead to a decrease in traction.

9. The inlet and outlet should be kept away from each other and in different rooms otherwise there will be drafts and an unpleasant howling sound.

10. Improve the efficiency of air outflow by placing outlets above heat sources: oven, stove, battery, etc.

conclusions

For houses made of gas blocks, it is advised to carry out ventilation duct with at least passive air exchange. The porous structure is unable to remove all the moisture received, which is why the walls begin to deteriorate quickly.