Ventilation in a two-story bath. How to equip ventilation in the steam room. How does the natural ventilation system work?

There is already a large review material on our website, so now it’s worth talking separately about the hood in the bath: about how it works, how it works and how to make it yourself.

Hood in the bath: depending on which bath

Baths are built from a variety of materials, each of which has its own specifics. This also affects the ventilation systems, which have their own characteristics in each case. We will talk about their differences in terms of organization below.

Extractor in the sauna

A sauna or a Finnish bath differs from a Russian one in a small amount of steam (this is practically a dry bath) and a high temperature (which can reach up to 130 degrees!). During your stay in the sauna, there is a clear rule regarding ventilation: the air must be changed at least 6-8 times per hour. And this requires good controllability of air flows, replacing exhaust air with fresh air less than every 10 minutes.

Ideal option for a sauna, (convection type). Let us briefly repeat that it operates on the principle of an “inverted glass”:

ventilation box, standing diagonally from the oven, takes in ambient air;
brings it out through the roof (wall);
below, next to the stove, there is an inlet through which fresh air enters;
the oven heats the oxygenated air, it rises and is distributed throughout the sauna.

Flow regulation is carried out with the help of dampers that regulate the openness of the box and the inlet. An important point in this case is the constant operation of the furnace, because it is it that performs the function of a “pump”.

And even if the hood in the sauna is done according to a different scheme, the task will remain the same:

controlled frequent air exchange;
good warming up incoming fresh air;
impermissibility fast air currents (more than 0.3 m / s), i.e. drafts.

In a log cabin

The log house was invented long before the laws of physics on which natural ventilation is based took shape. Nevertheless, the builders of log baths actively used these laws so that the owners of the bath would not suffocate in the process of soaring, and the bath would stand for decades due to it. (Of course, the hood in the log cabin will not save her from a fire, but from rot - it may well.) In the log house, the air flow was provided by the lower rims, which were intentionally laid freely, that is, they had slots through which fresh air was “stretched”. In addition, the door to the steam room below did not fit snugly against the floor.

Depending on how exactly the bath from the log house was heated - “in black” or “in white” - it also depended on where the exhaust air went.

In a heated "black" bathhouse, the stove does not work during the soaring process, so an open window or door was used for outflow.
In the melted "white" bath, the outflow was carried out through the chimney. The oven was working.

In principle, nothing prevents organizing the ventilation of the log house in the traditional way today. But it is necessary to decide quickly, even at the construction stage. Because a more modern solution should already be included in the project. Alternatively, you can punch holes (supply and exhaust) directly onto the street and supply them with plugs or dampers. One is next to the stove blower, the second is above the upper shelf on the adjacent or opposite side. Or make two exhaust holes - one above, the other below the top shelf. Another option is to make blinds at the bottom of the steam room door, and an exhaust hole under the ceiling of the shower room.

IMPORTANT! If there is no desire to make an exit to the street, you can lay air ducts, but then you will have to install a forced ventilation system instead of a natural one.

In a foam block bath

A foam block bath is no exception to the rule that you need to think about ventilation when designing a bath. It's easier than hitting ready-made walls. In order to provide a bath of cellular concrete with sufficient air circulation, which will save the structure from excess moisture, it is necessary to lay pipe trimmings at the time of pouring the foundation formwork, which will then become air ducts.

For a bath that is not in a lowland and is not surrounded on all sides by buildings, two air vents are enough on opposite sides, otherwise they are made 4. Do not forget about the ventilation gaps between the walls and the insulation.

The roof must also be ventilated, receiving inflow from the roof overhangs and giving air through the raised ridge. In the premises, supply and exhaust openings are made according to one of the standard schemes.

In case of insufficient natural ventilation, it is recommended to install fans on the hood from the foam block bath.

Extract for a bath: in which department?

If we leave aside the issues of ventilation of walls, foundations and roofs already discussed in other articles, there are rooms - a steam room, a washing room, a dressing room and a rest room - where you need to organize air circulation. At the same time, there are certain standards regarding ventilation in each of them and the specifics of the manufacture of the hood. But first things first.

Extractor in the steam room

For those who soar, the extract in the steam room of the bath is a guarantee that they will come out of there alive and healthy.

IMPORTANT! You can not leave the steam room without ventilation holes at all, this is a big risk of getting black or losing consciousness and suffocating with carbon dioxide. Can't just make one hole- so the ventilation does not work.

The method of ventilation of the steam room can be natural (due to the laws of physics) or forced (due to fans). Openings can lead to the street, to air ducts and to neighboring rooms. On the ventilation openings, either blinds or dampers are placed. Air inflow can be organized through the bottom of the steam room door, spaced 3 cm from the floor or with blinds at the bottom of the door leaf.

With your own hands you will have to make only a box. Everything else (corrugation, valves, gate valves, dampers) is on sale. Fans (if needed) vary in diameter and power. Relays can be used to automatically control forced ventilation. Holes in the wall are either left during construction, or they make their way in an already built bath.

Useful video

See how the craftsmen made a box for extracting ventilation from the boards:

In the washing

According to the already mentioned standards, the air circulation in the washing room per hour should be a multiple of 8 room volumes for supply ventilation and 9 for exhaust. It means:

that the dimensions of the exhaust opening will be more inlet;
or exhaust will be two on one supply;
or put on the hood fan.

In any case, this is an intensive air exchange, which is intended primarily for quickly draining the car wash. During the washing process, it is not required, so it is regulated by dampers.

By the way, air inlets can be made in the dressing room or rest room, and exhaust holes in the washing room. This will allow you to ventilate two rooms at once. Similarly, the hood is done in the bathroom, and forced to create low pressure. Then the air will be drawn from the neighboring rooms and leave through the forced exhaust. Thus, the rooms are connected by through holes, which on the one hand will be supply, and on the other - exhaust.

The components of the hood in the washing bath do not differ from those used in the steam room.

How to make an extract in the bath

This has been said many times before, but it's worth repeating: the cost of arranging ventilation will increase many times if it is done late after completion of construction. At the same time, the principle of creating ventilation in the bath remains unchanged: it is necessary to create conditions for the inflow and outflow of air from the premises. So, how to make a hood in the bath with your own hands or the hands of professionals.

Hood in the bath: scheme

There are many schemes, but any one is suitable for understanding the principle of ventilation. Most often, ventilation schemes for the steam room are offered, but the scheme for the entire bath, with explanations, is of much greater interest.

Look at the sketch. It shows that ventilation is carried out in the washing room, steam room and rest room. Moreover, the air flow is carried out from one pipe to two points, one of which is located in the steam room, and the second - in the rest room. The hood is located in the washing room, and in the steam room, and in the rest room. Let's describe all the ventilation devices in each room:

washing- a window made of metal-plastic, an adjustable hood that takes air through a diffuser located on the ceiling. From there, the air escapes through a pipe to the roof.
steam room- an insulated window located below the shelf, an adjustable hood, which is a vertical box, the intake hole of which is 150 cm² located below the shelf, and the exit from the pipe to the street is near the ceiling. One of the channels of regulated inflow near the stove, cross-sectional area 150 cm².
Restroom- adjustable hood, which is a box with a cross section of 150 cm², the height of the intake hole is 30-40 cm from the floor, exit through the pipe to the street near the ceiling. Regulated inflow through the second channel with an exit near a furnace fire chamber.

DIY: how to do it right

Do-it-yourself exhaust in the bath is not something that cannot be done, but you need to approach the matter prudently and slowly. In order to independently make the hood, you need to prepare materials according to it. It is also necessary to calculate the cross section of the ventilation pipes.

IMPORTANT! The inflow volume must be equal to or less than the exhaust volume.

To do this, you need to know the volume of the room and the multiplicity factor (how many times the air should be updated per hour) - it is in the regulations. In the main air ducts, the speed of movement should not exceed 5 m / s, in the branches - 3 m / s, in the steam room - 2 m / s, natural ventilation - up to 1 m / s. Further in the table we find the value of the pipe section, which most closely gives the desired volume at a given speed.

Knowing the cross section, it remains to prepare a corrugation or pipes of the appropriate diameter, which at one end are mounted indoors at the desired height according to the scheme, and with the other they go outside. Self-tapping screws, metal tape and polyurethane foam are used for fastening. The openings are supplied with shutters in the room, gratings at the exit. By the way, ventilation should be cleaned once a year..

Useful video

Watch a short video showing ventilation in one bath:

+++
Well, now you know exactly how to properly draw a hood in the bath in order to save yourself, your household and guests from suffocation in the bath. It remains only to correctly apply the information received.

In contact with

State norms for ventilation of premises are regulated by SNiP 41-01-2003, the document establishes the minimum frequency of air exchange in rooms, depending on their purpose and features of use. In residential areas, ventilation must perform two tasks - to provide favorable indicators of the percentage of oxygen in the air and to remove exhaust gases.

SNiP 41-01-2003. Heating, ventilation and air conditioning. Download file

For a bath, ventilation tasks become more complicated, it must additionally remove moist air as quickly as possible (fast drying of wooden structures is ensured) and regulate the temperature in the steam room. There are cases when it is necessary to quickly reduce the temperature in the steam room before taking procedures by small children, the elderly or large people. The stove continues to give off heat for a long time, it takes a very long time to wait until the bath cools down on its own. With the help of room ventilation, you can quickly set the desired temperature and maintain it within the specified limits all the time people stay in it.

Prices for ventilation valves

ventilation valves

What are the types of ventilation and the method of their calculation

Ventilation can only exist when there is an inflow of fresh air and an outflow of used air into the room. Often you can find the concept of "supply" or "exhaust" ventilation. These are not quite correct concepts, there cannot be only supply or only exhaust ventilation, it is always only flow-exhaust. Why are these concepts used? Thus, it is emphasized that the supply or exhaust of exhaust air is carried out in a forced way, and, accordingly, the removal or supply of fresh air occurs in a natural way.

Supply and exhaust ventilation

When calculating the parameters of ventilation systems, the initial data take into account the volume and purpose of the premises, the presence of special conditions in them in terms of air indicators, the presence or likelihood of the presence of carbon monoxide or other chemical compounds harmful to health. Based on these data, state regulations establish the frequency of air replacement within an hour, it can vary from 1 ÷ 2 to ten or more.

Next, engineers determine the parameters and location of the channels to ensure the necessary intake and removal of air, taking into account weather conditions and the climatic zone. If natural ventilation cannot provide the required frequency of air changes, then forced systems are used that supply / exhaust air with electric fans. Baths have their own characteristics of each type of ventilation, consider them in more detail.

Prices for supply and exhaust ventilation

air handling unit

General rules for ventilation in the bath

The principles of the ventilation device in the bath largely depend on the architectural features of its design. If the floors have slots for draining water, then supply air can also be supplied through the same slots, there is no need to make a special hole.

Quite often, small windows are installed in the bath - when opened, they “turn” into exhaust holes. In addition, if the furnace firebox is located directly in the steam room, the room can be ventilated even easier - open the firebox and, by changing the position of the damper, adjust the air change rate.

Photo - furnace firebox and open door for ventilation of the room

These are the simplest options for a steam room (by the way, the most efficient and low-cost ones), but there are cases when the furnace firebox is located in another room, there is no window, and the floors are solid without gaps. It is on such a bath that we will focus in our article. Why do you need to do ventilation in the bath?

For better mixing of air throughout the volume. Natural convection of air masses is not able to equalize the air temperature along the height, the difference in indicators under the ceiling and near the floor can reach tens of degrees. This negatively affects the comfort of taking water procedures.
For the supply of fresh air. If one person is steamed in the steam room, and the residence time does not exceed 20 ÷ 30 minutes, then the oxygen concentration in the air will not have time to drop to critical values. And if several people steam at the same time in the steam room for a long time, then the influx of fresh air becomes mandatory.

Quite often, developers fall into two extremes: in order to save heat, they generally refuse ventilation or make it too strong and unregulated. Both extremes have negative consequences, ventilation should not be neglected, it is cheap, and the positive effect is very impressive. But it should be done correctly, taking into account the features of the premises, the requirements for the temperature in the steam room, the materials for the manufacture of walls and cladding.

In the event of a complete lack of ventilation, the risks of oxygen starvation increase and, if the furnace firebox is located directly in the steam room, carbon monoxide poisoning. In the case of strong unregulated ventilation, the heating time increases significantly, warm air is quickly removed from the room. But that's not all the problems - the rapid removal of warm air automatically causes an equally rapid influx of fresh air - the floors will always be very cold, and this increases the risk of colds.

Uncontrolled ventilation is fraught with cold floors

The influx of fresh air in the steam room is arranged in two places: behind the stove or under the sun loungers.

There are many air movement patterns on the Internet, most of them are made by amateurs, you should not pay attention to them. Follow only two conditions: air inflow at the bottom, exhaust at the top, placement of channels diagonally across the room.

This is quite enough to ensure normal circulation and air mixing. Everything else is reasoning about nothing, they can only confuse inexperienced developers, significantly complicate the ventilation system, make it expensive and unreliable. There are options with two multi-level exhaust valves, with two supply valves, etc. The air outlets are located at different heights.

One under the very ceiling, is used only for complete ventilation of the bath after the completion of water procedures. The second is done 30 ÷ 40 centimeters below the first and is used during washing. Some craftsmen connect them together with internal air ducts, install several control dampers, etc. We assure you that these complications do not have any visible effect on the comfort of staying in the steam room.

A few words should be said about the ventilation ducts in the bath, they are often suggested to be used in steam rooms. In large buildings, ventilation ducts are used to connect several different rooms to a common ventilation system, no matter if it is natural or forced. This is quite justified from both technological and economic points of view.

And what other rooms can be connected to the steam room with ventilation ducts? Weird question. Then why make complex channels under the wall sheathing? Wouldn't it be easier to make ordinary holes in the walls and insert ordinary pieces of pipes and grates with elementary valves into them? Of course, we will talk about a real, effective, simple and cheap way to install ventilation, we will not lay any channels anywhere. This is a universal option, perfect for both "budget" and expensive exclusive pairs.

Prices for air outlets

PVC air outlet

Video - Ventilation in the bath

Natural ventilation of the bath

The most accepted option for most baths, minimal in cost and safety, and quite effective. The specific location of the ventilation openings should be taken into account, taking into account the size of the premises, the location of the shelves, the stove and the material of the building. The general rule is that the holes should be located at different heights, as a rule, the inlet (supply) 20 cm from the floor and the outlet (exhaust) 20÷30 cm from the ceiling. When choosing holes, you need to consider where the holes will be located on the outer walls. It is desirable that they do not stand out too much on the facade walls.

The dimensions of the holes are approximately 300÷400 cm2, it is better to make them larger than smaller. In case of too rapid air exchange, leading to a decrease in the temperature in the steam room, the channels should be covered with control dampers. To improve the appearance, it is better to use decorative grilles, they can be purchased at specialized stores or made independently.

We wrote more about this type of ventilation in the article “. We will tell you how to organize natural ventilation, how to calculate and make ventilation holes.

Somewhat complicates the ventilation system, requires the installation of electrical equipment. Another problem is related to the microclimate in the steam room. There, high temperature and humidity are the main enemies of any electrical equipment. Fans must have a reliable protection of the housing from moisture; during connection, the recommendations of the Electrical Installation Code must be strictly observed. And in order to comply, you need to know them.

Forced ventilation - elements

The advantages of forced ventilation - the rate of air change in the room is significantly accelerated, the control parameters are expanded. Natural ventilation is very dependent on weather conditions, in some cases it can become ineffective. Especially if the wind is at right angles to the exhaust vent. Forced ventilation works with the same efficiency in any weather and regardless of the direction and strength of the wind.

How to calculate forced ventilation in the bath and what is it like? How to choose fans? We answered all these questions in the article. In the same place - detailed step-by-step instructions for installing ventilation and advice from professionals.

How to make ventilation in the bath with your own hands

Initial data. The architectural features of the bath do not provide for air to enter through the cracks in the floor, doors, windows or the furnace. It is necessary to make holes for both entry and exit of air. There is no internal and external wall cladding, the bathhouse is built of sawn timber.

Step 1. Decide on the location of the input and output channels.

We have already mentioned that it is better to place the inlet channel near the stove at a distance of about 20 centimeters from the floor level. Exit channel diagonally under the ceiling. This position of the inlet and outlet openings will ensure the distribution of air flows throughout the volume of the room. Also, the inlet air will not cool the flooring. Channels should be easily accessible. There are recommendations to make an exit hole in the ceiling. We are opponents of such a decision, humid air will certainly cause great damage to the entire truss system.

Step 2 Purchase or make your own grates and valves.

They can be of various sizes and geometric shapes: round, square or rectangular. At the same time, take into account the materials of the future cladding of external and internal walls, consider how the decorative grilles will be attached to them.

Important. Be sure to install grilles with adjustable gaps, only they can provide smooth adjustment of the frequency of air changes in the room.

And one more thing - from the outside of the bath, the holes should also be closed. Moreover, the closure should be as airtight as possible, to prevent moisture from rain or snow from getting on the log house crowns.

Step 3 Make holes in the walls.

The most time-consuming operation, you have to work manually. Pre-in the marked places, you need to drill holes around the perimeter. The closer they are to each other, the easier it is to gouge the wood later. When the holes are drilled, take a chisel, a chisel and a hammer in your hands and begin to destroy the timber bridges remaining between the holes. Ventilation holes should be made 1-2 cm around the perimeter more than the inserted pipe. The fact is that then this pipe must be insulated to prevent the appearance of condensate on wooden structures.

Use only a sharp chisel and a chisel - the timber will have to be cut across the fibers, this is quite difficult. If the thickness of the beam is 20 centimeters, then it is better to make half the depth of the hole from the inside of the bath, and the second half from the outside. If you have extensive experience using a gasoline saw, then you can cut a hole. But we immediately warn you that it is very dangerous to work with a gasoline saw in such conditions. You will have to cut with the end of the tire, while grabbing the tree with the lower part of the chain, the saw will be pulled out of your hands. This way of using the saw is strictly prohibited by safety regulations, remember this.

If there is a need to dilute the inlet in the wall and in the bath, then buy a pipe with an elbow. It is advisable to use not round pipes, but rectangular ones, they take up less space under the lining of the inner walls of the steam room.

Be sure to seal the joints of the elbow and pipe with silicone and wrap with adhesive tape for reliability.

Scotch metallized

Step 4 Lay foil or polyethylene film and mineral wool around the perimeter of the holes, the wool layer should be dense, without gaps. It will not be possible to make the edges of the hole absolutely even, carefully make sure that the waterproofing is not damaged by the sharp protrusions of the timber.

Step 5 Insert the pipes into the holes in the log house. They should enter with little effort, quite tightly. In order to increase the reliability of sealing and fastening, be sure to walk around the perimeter of the hole and pipe with foam. Mounting foam eliminates all invisible gaps in thermal insulation between the pipe and the wall and firmly fixes it in the desired position.

We recommend foaming the holes and after wall cladding, the foam will eliminate the gaps between the wall and the vapor barrier. During the expansion of the foam, the vapor barrier will press tightly around the uneven hole, all possible small damages will automatically close.

The pipe to the hood may not be insulated, warm air comes out through it. But we advise, just in case, to do all the operations for her. First, you will lose a little time and money. Secondly, you will make additional and reliable protection against penetration of atmospheric moisture to wooden structures.

When both holes are prepared, you can start upholstering the walls and install decorative grilles with adjustable throughput parameters.

Important. We strongly advise you to ventilate the space between the wall cladding and the aluminum foil during the installation of steam room ventilation. The work is performed according to the above algorithm with one difference. Ventilation should be either permanently closed (during the adoption of water procedures) or permanently open (during the airing of the bath). Using foil as a wall vapor barrier has many benefits. But there is one problem - the difficulty of removing condensate between the skin and insulation. An ordinary hole solves all problems and completely eliminates damage to wood.

Prices for bath hoods

heat resistant fan

Video - DIY ventilation

How to make a hole in a log house with a crown

If you do not want to make holes for ventilation by hand, you can drill them with a special metal crown. They are sold in stores and are inexpensive. The only problem is that the crown requires a powerful low-speed drill or a hand-held drilling machine; ordinary drills can quickly fail due to a heavy load. Another limitation is that the maximum diameter of crowns is rarely more than 120 mm. But for most baths, small volumes of this size are enough.

Step 1. Choose a drill bit of the appropriate diameter and secure it in the chuck. Mark the drilling site.

Step 2 To lighten the cutting force, be sure to lubricate the bit with machine oil. Lubrication should be repeated periodically. Once the bit is about two-thirds deep, stop drilling, remove the bit and re-lubricate its inner and outer surfaces.

Step 3 Mark the center of the hole with any thin drill. Insert a crown into a shallow hole and start drilling the timber.

Step 4 Drill as long as the bit height allows. Carefully monitor the operation of the electric tool, do not allow heavy loads. Loads are regulated by the force of pressing the crown to the bar.

Step 5. The crown does not work further - take it out and gradually remove the cut wood with a chisel or chisel. It is removed quickly, start gradually chipping holes in the corners. Don't cut the log across the grain with the chisel, only chip it along the grain, it's much easier to do the job.

Repeat the steps until the hole is through. If the timber is so thick that the drill cannot go through it on one side, go to the other. To do this, you need to find the center of the already made hole as accurately as possible. The crown has its own centering drill, but its length may not always be enough to reach the reverse side. You will have to find the center yourself. To do this, install a thin wood drill in the drill, insert it into the existing hole from the center drill of the crown and very carefully make a through hole. The more precisely you drill the center, the easier and faster it will be to work on the other side of the wall.

Wood hole drill prices

hole drill for wood

Video - How to drill a hole with a crown

Bath ventilation with heating

A rather original way of arranging ventilation, not only fresh air lends itself to the bath, it is immediately heated. This is very important in winter, as it is possible not only to increase the comfort of your stay, but also to speed up the heating of the premises and save firewood.

The air intake is made at the bottom of the bath and is fed into the air intake duct with the help of electric fans.

The stove has a metal chimney, a special screen is installed around the chimney, air from the duct enters the screen channels. The screen performs two functions: it protects the limbs from burns and serves as a radiator for heating the air coming from the duct. The heated air exits the screen into the steam room.

If desired, you can slightly improve the design. Install a tee with a damper on the air duct. This will allow you to take both air from the bathhouse and from the street - the possibilities for regulating the parameters of the microclimate in the room are significantly expanded.

Video - Ventilation in a steam room with heated air

The temperature background and the high level of moisture in the bath are favorable conditions for the settlement of all kinds of harmful microorganisms. Among them are bacteria, viruses, mold fungi that destroy wood and the pulmonary system of lovers of bath procedures. Properly made ventilation in the bath will get rid of the listed negativity. How to make it?

We will tell you all about the rules for organizing ventilation systems designed to dry wet rooms. The use of reliable information will help to develop and implement an impeccable ventilation project. The data submitted for consideration are based on building codes and the practical experience of builders.

The article describes in detail the methods of construction of ventilation systems designed to remove water suspended in the air, drying finishes and supporting structures. The materials and components required for their arrangement are described. Effective assistance in mastering a difficult topic will be provided by photo applications and video guides.

The bath needs regular air renewal. This is a safety requirement for people taking bath procedures. Also, proper ventilation can extend the service life to 50 years or more.

The type of ventilation system is selected individually and depends on the location, size of the structure, and materials used in construction.

Bath ventilation schemes

All existing ventilation systems according to the principle of operation are divided into natural, forced and combined. In the first case, ventilation occurs due to the arbitrary entry of street air, its mixing in the room and the displacement of the exhaust through the holes in a natural way.

Image Gallery

If there is insulation, then a counter-lattice is required to provide ventilation between the insulation and other layers of the roof. It is also used for ventilation of wall structures so that condensation does not form in the thickness of the layers.

To dry the floors, burst ventilation is used or a ventilated floor is equipped. This option should be considered at the construction stage. To do this, they perform a draft floor, carefully pouring concrete at a slope, and finish it with hardwood boards, leaving small gaps between them. Such floor provides fast removal of excess moisture.

It is important to properly organize ventilation in all areas of the bath. Particular attention should be paid to the washing / shower room, where high humidity threatens the formation of fungus and mold

All bath rooms need ventilation, including:

washing room;
dressing room / rest room;
other premises.

To arrange proper ventilation, you have to choose the optimal scheme that fits the requirements and conditions of a particular bath. It is important to remember that fresh air must be supplied to all rooms and also removed from all.

They build ventilation ducts, make supply and exhaust openings in the walls or mount a whole system of air ducts - everything is very individual

Experienced craftsmen do not recommend laying complex ventilation duct systems, preferring to focus on the simplest solution suitable for a particular case. The rule here is the simpler the better. Yes, and at a price a simple option will cost several times cheaper.

Image Gallery

Among the most important indicators of the Russian bath, they traditionally name the temperature and the level of humidity, forgetting about another fundamental indicator - air exchange. This is very reckless, because even if you carefully insulate the room and achieve comfortable humidity, staying in a steam room with stale air will not only be uncomfortable, but also dangerous. If you want to avoid such a fate, take care of the ventilation in the steam room in advance. You can even equip such a system with your own hands - let's take a closer look at how to do it right.

Why does a Russian bath need ventilation?

Before proceeding to a description of the features of the direct technological process, let's first clarify why ventilation is necessary in the bath in the steam room. It is no secret that many skeptics consider its arrangement only an unjustified waste of time and money, but this is far from the case - the lack of a ventilation system can lead to at least three sharply negative consequences.

Types of ventilation systems for the steam room

Ventilation in the bath in the steam room can be of three types:

natural;
mechanical;
combined.

The natural system assumes that air circulation is provided by the difference in pressure and temperature levels in the steam room and on the street. The principle of operation here is simple: first, hot air rises to the upper zone of the steam room, and then leaves through the exhaust hole to the street, thereby discharging the atmosphere in the bath - this creates the conditions for drawing in new air through the supply hole. The advantage of such ventilation is minimal financial costs. But here one nuance must be taken into account: with insufficient insulation of the structure, the natural air duct will be an obstacle to high-quality heating of the bath.

Mechanical ventilation operates by means of special devices that control the exit of exhaust air and the supply of new air flows into the steam room. As a rule, various kinds of fans act as such devices. The advantage of the mechanical system is that ventilation equipment can be installed in almost any area of the room.

Advice. A classic duct fan is not suitable for a bath, as it will not endure the harsh conditions of a steam room - it is better to use special models made of glass-filled polyamide that can withstand high temperatures - up to 130 degrees.

Combined ventilation combines elements of both natural and mechanical systems. It functions in this way: mechanical devices are responsible for extracting the exhaust air, and fresh air enters through a separate supply opening.

Ventilation schemes

There are at least five working ventilation schemes that can be used in a steam room - choose a specific option based on the design features of your Russian bath.

The supply opening is behind the stove at a distance of 50 cm from the heater, and the exhaust opening is opposite, at a distance of 20 cm from the base of the floor. The air is removed forcibly - this is provided by a fan built into the lower opening.
The supply opening is behind the heater at a distance of 30 cm from the floor base, the exhaust opening is at a distance of 20 cm from the floor on the opposite wall. The air is forced out - with the help of a fan. The main feature of the scheme is a very high rate of heating of fresh air.

Both openings - both flow and exhaust - are placed on one side directly opposite the stove, but at different levels: the first is at a distance of 30 cm from the base of the floor, the second is 20 cm from the ceiling. The system operates using a fan, which is mounted in the exhaust opening.

Advice. Such a scheme is suitable for baths with an internal placement of a steam room - when the room has only one outer side.

The supply hole is behind the stove at a height of 20 cm from the base of the floor. There is no exhaust opening - instead, a special leaking floor is provided: the exhaust air masses pass through its slots to the ventilation pipe. Such a system guarantees the performance of an additional function - prompt drying of the floor.
The supply opening is opposite the stove at a distance of 20 cm from the base of the floor. The role of the exhaust hole is assigned to the blower. Such a scheme is suitable only for those baths where the heater operates continuously.

General rules for organizing ventilation in the steam room

Whichever version of the ventilation system you choose, you need to equip it according to certain rules.

Firstly, it is desirable to make all holes for ventilation even at the stage of building a bath, since punching channels in an already finished structure is a very difficult process. The ideal option is to decide on a suitable scheme during the design of a Russian bath in order to make all the necessary changes to the work plan in a timely manner.

Secondly, the dimensions of the exhaust opening should be approximately the same as the dimensions of the supply opening. In any case, the "output" should not be less than the "input", otherwise it will not be possible to ensure a full outflow of exhaust air from the steam room. And in order to speed up this process, it is allowed to increase the dimensions of the exhaust opening and even equip two “exits” in one room.

Thirdly, in order to regulate the airflow of the steam room, all ventilation openings must be equipped with special shutters or shutters. They will come in handy in several situations: when heating the steam room, when the vents will need to be covered to quickly raise the temperature to the required level, as well as in the frosty season, when cold air will actively rush into a warm room.

Fourthly, the cross section of the ventilation hole should be related to the area of the steam room in the proportion: 1 cu. m area - 24 cm section. If the holes are small, the air in the room will not be able to quickly update.

Of course, organizing ventilation in the bath with your own hands is not an easy task. But it is fundamentally necessary: without air exchange, you can forget about the comfort, safety and durability of the steam room. Now you know the main rules and subtleties of this work - if you stick to them, you will definitely be able to make a high-quality ventilation system even without professional help.

Ventilation in the bath: video

Ensuring ventilation in the bath: photo

The positive impact of regular bath procedures on the body is invaluable. At the same time, a bath is not just healthy, it is also a spiritual pastime, relaxation and gatherings. However, all the benefits will be easily blocked by the difficulties that will certainly appear if there is no effective ventilation in the bath.

Importance of the system

Even in the old days, architects understood that the lack of fresh air in the bathhouse can quickly cause dampness, mold, fungal spores, which inevitably leads to the destruction of the structure. That is why even in ancient times, builders left small gaps between the logs - they contributed to the improvement of air exchange and high-quality ventilation. Today, these primitive technologies have been replaced by modern, efficient systems that require effort, money and time for planning and installation.

Some homeowners skip this stage of work, but this is a very big mistake, because after a couple of years such buildings will simply become unusable due to constantly high humidity, and if the bath is built using frame technology, then its service life will be even less. The first sign of the destruction that has begun will be a musty smell, which will be most noticeable at the moment the stove is kindled. This will negate any pleasure from the procedure. Being in such a steam room is not only unpleasant, but also quite dangerous for life and health, since carbon monoxide, fungal and mold spores accumulate in the air, which provoke the development of dangerous diseases of the bronchopulmonary system.

Effective ventilation in the bath must certainly comply with the basic requirements and principles of safety:

Proper distribution of air masses. As is known from the school physics course, high-temperature air masses rush up, and cold ones, on the contrary, fall. Therefore, the flows should be directed so that the legs do not freeze, and the sunbeds have a comfortable temperature.
Maintaining a predetermined level of heating in the steam room. Under no circumstances should ventilation interfere with the functionality of the steam room, that is, air cooling is unacceptable.
The use of waterproof materials. For the arrangement of steam rooms and the organization of ventilation, it is necessary to use materials that are resistant to moisture and elevated temperatures.

The main difficulty in creating an efficient air exchange system is that it is faced with the task of quickly removing hot moist air from all parts of the bath, but at the same time it is required to prevent a decrease in temperature in the hot steam room, so modern systems, as a rule, use the installation of hoods that do not allow cold air to be blown in from outside. The presence of such systems is of fundamental importance for buildings equipped with solid fuel and gas furnaces, since such schemes require a large amount of oxygen to support the combustion process.

How it works?

High-quality ventilation in a steam room consists of airing and completely drying all functional areas, as well as walls, floors, attic and the entire under-roof area. Exhaust openings in the attic are made in the form of small windows, as well as aerators or spotlights - this largely depends on the type of roof and the materials for its manufacture. If the building is insulated, then a counter-lattice is additionally mounted, which allows ventilation to be achieved between the layer of thermal insulation material and other layers of the roofing pie. It is also installed to ventilate wall structures, which is very important to prevent the formation of condensate in the bath.

But for the best drying of the floors, a burst ventilation system is used or a ventilated floor is arranged. Such options should be considered at the planning stage of construction work. To do this, a subfloor is laid and concrete is poured at an angle, then the boards are laid in such a way that small gaps remain between them, through which excessive moisture is removed.

It should be noted that absolutely all bath rooms need airing: a steam room, a sink, a rest room, as well as other rooms. In order for ventilation to be most effective, it is necessary to select in advance such a scheme that will correspond to the characteristics of the bath and the conditions of its operation.

Experienced builders do not recommend complex ventilation systems and recommend giving preference to the simplest and most familiar methods that may be suitable for each individual case. Here, the statement that the simpler the better is 100% true, and at its cost this option will be much cheaper.

The principle of operation of ventilation is based on the laws of physics. As a rule, 2 windows are cut out in such rooms: one of them is responsible for the supply of fresh street air, and the second allows overheated and humid air to come out. How these windows are located in relation to each other depends largely on which zone of the complex and with what intensity the air heated from the furnace will penetrate, since it moves under the influence of cold air masses coming from the street. This explains the fact that in some baths two outlets are cut instead of a single outlet, which makes it possible to redirect heat flows in the desired direction.

Of fundamental importance are the dimensions of the windows, as well as the possibility of full or partial regulation of the clearance. To do this, special valves are fixed on them, allowing you to cover any open slots.

It is very important to make the correct calculations of the window, taking into account the size of the room. If the windows are too large, then the steam room simply cannot warm up to the required temperature and you will have to spend more electricity. And if the windows are too small, then the intensity of the movement of flows will be reduced and a complete supersaturation of the air with water vapor may occur.

The size and location of the ventilation windows primarily affects the ingress and uniform mixing of air, as well as its removal from the overheated room. As for the uneven distribution of temperatures in different parts of the steam room, this phenomenon cannot be completely avoided, but it is possible to ensure that the effect is invisible to visitors to the steam room and washing room and does not cause any discomfort.

Kinds

High-quality ventilation of bath rooms extends the life of the steam room up to 50 years and even more. The variant of the ventilation system in each case is selected individually and is largely determined by the location of the building and the materials that were used in its construction. All the options for arranging ventilation developed to date, according to the basic principle of operation, are divided into natural, forced, and also combined.

natural ventilation assumes that the change of air is carried out due to the unimpeded flow of flows from the outside, their mixing with the air layers of the steam rooms and the removal of the exhaust through special openings.

Forced the system is based on the use of fans. As a rule, they are installed on the hood and much less often on the inflow. Typically, fans are installed not only in the steam room, but also in the washing room, as well as in the rest room.

combined option, as the name implies, it includes elements of natural and forced ventilation.

Among the popular schemes, “bastu” is the most common. It involves the formation of a small opening with an adjustable valve, which works for inflow and is usually located behind or below the furnace.

As additional elements, vents are equipped above the stove, which are controlled by a valve and a valve - it is through them that air enters from the outside through the vents from the underground. Usually the opening of such a box remains closed for some period, however, as soon as there is a need to reduce the level of humidity in the bath, both exhaust valves open. This scheme could be considered ideal if not for some of its limitations. Unfortunately, it is far from suitable in every case, therefore, in some situations, the installation of an exhaust system becomes a more preferable ventilation option - for this, a fan is attached to the bottom of the box. If you install it in the supply hole behind the stove, you can get a supply type of ventilation.

There is another scheme that is quite often used in steam rooms - with it, moist superheated air is removed from the steam room space through the upper and lower openings equipped with valves, and fresh air enters through vents in the floor under the firebox. From the outside of the building, such holes are interconnected by a special ventilation duct. Less often, an exhaust hood is installed in the baths, in which one single channel works for the entry of air jets and one for their removal, while both are equipped at the same height from the floor level: one is placed behind the stove, and the second is opposite on the opposite wall. This system requires mandatory installation of forced ventilation.

The most unfortunate way involves arranging both inflow and exhaust on one side opposite the firebox. In such a system, fresh air coming in from the street seeks its way to the stove and, during its movement, stumbles upon the feet of the steamers. This creates a draft, which significantly reduces the level of comfort from staying in the steam room. However, such an arrangement is also quite common when it is not technically possible to make holes from different sides of the room.

materials

The choice of the bath ventilation system is largely influenced by the type of structure and the material from which it is made. If the bath is equipped in a separate building, then it is quite simple to plan and install the most preferred type of ventilation. But if the bath has a common wall with living rooms, then ventilation must be taken especially carefully in order to prevent waterlogging and rotting of the wall.

The ventilation system in the baths of the second type can only be forced, that is, it must necessarily include a fan, which will help to effectively dry the wall. The ventilation of the bath can be connected to the elements of general house ventilation or independently go outside. Ventilation ducts in frame buildings are equipped directly in the walls, and later they are brought out to the roof or even higher. For maximum air flow, functional air vents are installed in the foundation or a ventilation valve is installed.

The peculiarity of the buildings according to the frame method is that the walls in them are covered with a large number of heat-insulating layers, which completely excludes the possibility of arranging natural ventilation. That is why the best option here would be to create a supply and exhaust ventilation system. In order for the air exchange to be of the highest quality, they use the creation of two channels: one is placed near the floor and supplemented with a fan, it is used for inflow, and the second serves to remove the exhaust air - it is mounted a little higher. The openings of such openings are closed with shutters.

In baths built from gas blocks and foam blocks, due to the individual characteristics of the material, galvanized air ducts are equipped. To do this, they purchase ready-made pipes, some even make them from simple sewer pipes. Some masters create a ventilation duct on their own from galvanized leaves, after giving them the necessary configuration and reliably sealing the joints. As a rule, in such buildings, air ducts are laid over the side walls.

The easiest way to arrange ventilation is in a classic Russian log bath. Here it makes sense to equip a natural exhaust system. If the wood is breathable, gaps are formed between the logs from the floor to the bottom edge, and windows are provided in all the rooms of the bath, then additional ventilation structures will not be required. However, the problem often arises of creating optimal proportions between the air entering from outside and leaving the street. In order to prevent the occurrence of drafts and not to "heat the street", experts recommend additionally insulating the bath well and equipping small holes with special valves inside the thermal insulation material, which serve to enter and remove flows.

In buildings made of wood, the burst ventilation method is often used, in which all windows and doors are opened at the same time.

Brick buildings initially do not provide for the possibility of air exchange, so any natural exhaust is absolutely excluded here. Because of this, ventilation should be planned at the stage of drawing up a construction project. At the same time, it is important to accurately imagine how many bathers will take bath procedures. If the bath is being built for a small family, then you can simply arrange a small supply hole near the stove and an exhaust hole under the ceiling, and if the building is focused on a large company, then forced options should be preferred.

How to make your own?

In order to create comfortable conditions in the steam room and other bath rooms, it is necessary to properly equip the ventilation system. You can spend it in the bath both on your own and with the involvement of specialists. This will require a project of work, materials and tools, as well as a little time and effort.

What will be needed?

For the installation of ventilation ducts in the bath, preparation is needed. In the work you will need components:

several ventilation valves;
valve;
metal grating;
mosquito net;
ventilation box;
corrugated air duct;
hygrometer;
fan;

thermometer;
metallized adhesive tape;
collar;
mounting foam;
sealant;
fasteners;
decorative overlays for facing inlet and outlet openings.

By the way, the latter are widely represented in any store in a variety of colors and textures, so getting the best option will not be a problem. Vent valves are installed on the exhaust and supply openings. They may differ in shape, as well as in size and material of manufacture. Gate valves are used to quickly open or close openings. They are made from a wide variety of materials, and some home craftsmen even make them with their own hands, and in terms of strength and fixation strength, they are in no way inferior to store options.

A grid with a grid, as in ordinary houses, is necessary in order to create a barrier in the way of insects and rodents, whose presence is highly undesirable either at home or in a bathhouse. Most often they are made of metal, but there are options made of heat-resistant plastic.

The box, as a rule, is attached from the outer wall, but if there is no technical possibility for this, it is simply laid along the top. This arrangement is typical for buildings made of aerated concrete. Some make the box on their own, using corrugated pipes for this. Keep in mind that plastic options are not suitable for double rooms, since most types of plastic begin to deform under the influence of high temperatures.

The fan in the steam room is used for both supply and exhaust air. It is optimal if in the room it will work only in the general direction. Such a device should be purchased in a heat-resistant version, which is specially made for Finnish saunas and baths. Thermo and hygrometers are used to make the use of the bath as practical as possible. For example, in systems with forced ventilation, temperature sensors are often installed that analyze the real state of the air and, depending on its performance, open the supply valve or start the exhaust.

Planning for the construction of the steam room

It is optimal if the entire ventilation system is thought out in advance - even at the design stage of the building. To choose the most suitable design, it is worth focusing on some of the nuances of installation work. The ventilation system, as a rule, is laid at the construction stage of the bath, it is at this time that all the necessary channels are laid and openings are formed into which they will later be walled up or to which they will be attached. The adjustable windows themselves are fixed only after the completion of the decorative finishing of the complex.

All ventilation openings usually have an identical size, and if the task is to increase the degree of air outflow, then the exhaust window is made slightly larger than the supply window, but in no case vice versa. The formation of an exhaust hole with a diameter lower than that of the supply one is strictly not allowed, because such a design can pose a threat to the life and health of users.

By all means, dampers and valves must be provided in the system, and the latter are considered the most preferable option, since they allow you to close the holes with the greatest tightness without the formation of any gaps. Adjustable shutters are also important because the air flow depends not only on the size of the window, but also on the season. In winter, when negative temperatures prevail outside the window, cold air masses penetrate the bathhouse more intensively, which is why the windows are partially opened in the autumn-winter period, thereby delaying the entry of large volumes of frosty air masses.

As for the ventilation window, the size of its cross section is calculated based on the volume of the steam room. A standard has been conditionally adopted, according to which the window area must correspond to 24 cm2 for each cubic meter of space. If the calculations are made with violations and deviations in one direction or another, then the room will be too much ventilated, or vice versa.

Even at the design stage of the bath, it should be remembered that ventilation windows should not be located exactly opposite each other at the same level. In this case, warm air masses will not have normal circulation and will not be able to cover all the required areas of heating. Exhaust openings should be located slightly below ceiling level. This is because warm air rises. If the system has an outlet for superheated air flows, then they are effectively removed to the outside, and if the holes are low, then the exhaust air cannot find a place for removal and the general microclimate in the room becomes uncomfortable.

Separately, floor ventilation should be provided, since with constant contact with water, wooden surfaces lose their performance characteristics after 3-5 years, therefore important requirements for a ventilated floor:

to form the possibility of a flow in the foundation, it is necessary to build small vents;
the floor should be laid in such a way that there are gaps up to one centimeter in size between the boards;
the finishing floor must be laid without fail above the level of the blower, which contributes to the fact that the stove starts to work as an additional hood;
after taking bath procedures, you should leave the front door completely open until the floor dries.

As for the dressing room, it is easiest to equip ventilation here, since there is no direct contact with water in such a room. As a rule, a combined or natural ventilation method is formed here, when cool air enters through the supply duct and is removed using the exhaust mechanism of the steam room, where it enters under the action of a fan.

In addition, it is allowed to install ventilators here, which may require connecting to an electrical network and access to the street. As for the washing room, forced ventilation is usually built here, and air is exchanged here using an electric motor.

We organize the hood in an already built bath

Even ancient architects, far from the laws of physics, invented a method of ventilation, which was based on the creation of natural draft. Depending on how the bath was heated - in black or white, it also depended on where the heated air was discharged. In the first case, the stove did not function during direct soaring, so open windows and doors were used for ventilation. The white scheme provides for the construction of a chimney. As already mentioned, the main elements of the air exchange system should be laid at the construction stage, however, there are options when it becomes necessary to equip the hood in an already built building.

To do this, you should punch holes right in the walls and supplement them with special plugs. One hole is punched in the area of the furnace blowing, and the second - near the ceiling on the opposite side. Of course, this is easiest to do if the bath is built of logs. If the building is built of aerated concrete, and even more so of brick, then it will be much more problematic to form holes and equip the hood, since in the process of such work it is possible to violate the integrity of the walls at all in the wrong place, and the risk of destruction of the bath as a whole is quite high. That is why you should not independently do ventilation in already operated baths. Entrust these works to professionals who have the necessary skills and special tools. But if you are still determined to do all the work yourself, study the step-by-step guide.

In conclusion, it should be noted once again that the basic principles for creating an effective ventilation system largely depend on the dimensions of the bath and the materials from which they are made. However, in any case, there are a number of requirements that must be observed regardless of the specified parameters. Each steam room must have at least two openings. One is used for inflow, the second - for the removal of air masses. If you plan in advance the hood in the bath under construction, you can avoid serious problems with the installation of the ventilation system, which can cause air exchange problems in the steam room.