Proper ventilation device in the bath. Types and purpose of ventilation in a log bath. Scheme #3. Supply and exhaust ventilation

Ventilation in the bath is a mandatory structural element. Without full-fledged air exchange and fresh air supply, even the highest quality wooden building can completely become unusable in 2-3 years. However, even in this short period of time, bathers will have to enjoy such “charms” as dampness, unpleasant smell, lack of fresh air.

Therefore, the installation of the ventilation system must be approached with all responsibility. This is not difficult. Moreover, in most small private baths (especially with the “Russian bath” mode), natural ventilation is the most optimal. And its construction, unlike the forced analogue, will not require the installation of expensive fans. And in some baths, it is generally created "by itself" - only due to the appropriate design of the steam room.

How is the natural ventilation system arranged?

Natural ventilation is driven by air convection that occurs when there is a difference in pressure (temperature) in the room (bath) and outside.

According to the laws of physics, the heated air in the room always rises, and the cold air descends to the floor. The main task of ventilation in the bath is to ensure the flow of fresh air (cold) and displace the exhaust (warm). Therefore, when planning natural ventilation, the inlet is usually located below the exhaust. Then the warm air, rising up, goes out through the exhaust shaft. At the same time, a vacuum (reduced pressure) is created in the room and fresh cool air is drawn in through the inflow near the floor. Gradually, it warms up again, rises and displaces a portion of the exhaust air through the hood. This ensures continuous convection and natural ventilation.

As extracts in a bath with natural ventilation, air vents, vents, and a stove chimney can be used. The air flow is carried out through the crowns of the walls (in chopped baths), ajar doors, ventilation openings. Both supply and exhaust openings (air vents, vents) are provided with shutters or adjustable grilles. This helps to control the air exchange in the room and prevent drafts.

There are several options for natural ventilation. Each of them has its own advantages, special functionality and some restrictions on use.

Option 1. Volley ventilation - airing

Volley ventilation is common in small Russian baths. This is the usual ventilation, which is performed either after bathing procedures, or between entering the steam room. Volley ventilation contributes to a quick change of air, drying the surfaces of the steam room.

With burst ventilation, the role of ventilation holes is performed by a door and a window leaf located on opposite walls. To change the air, they are opened for a short time after soaring (or between visits to the steam room). Depending on which direction the pressure drop is directed, air will move from the window to the door or vice versa.

The role of salvo ventilation is to freshen the air in the steam room, but at the same time not to cool the walls. Therefore, the ventilation time is short - 1-2 minutes is enough.

Option #2. Ventilation with outflow through the chimney

A stove with a chimney can be the driving force behind ventilation. When the fuel is burned, the exhaust air is drawn into the furnace blower and exits through the chimney. In order for fresh air to flow in, a gap of about 5-10 mm is made at the bottom of the door. Or loosely close it during procedures. In log cabins, when a fire is burning in a stove, air from the street is drawn in through loosely fitted lower rims.

Ventilation through the outflow of air through the chimney is only possible while maintaining the fire in the stove. If fuel combustion is not maintained during vaping (e.g. in black-baths or short-duration ovens), no air change will be performed. A more versatile ventilation system will be required.

Option #3. Air exchange through vents

Air exchange through special vents is a universal type of natural ventilation. It allows you to gradually change the air in the steam room several times during the soaring (ideally - 5-6 times per hour). With proper planning of such ventilation, drafts and a decrease in surface temperature will not be observed.

The exhaust hole is usually arranged under the ceiling, above the top shelf. It has dimensions of 15-20 cm, it is square or round. The hood is closed with a removable plug or a sliding damper (door), with which you can change the size of the hood and the degree of air exchange.

A few more rules:

It is undesirable to place the ventilation holes at the same level opposite each other. It is highly likely that fresh air entering the steam room will immediately fly out into the hood. This eliminates the full circulation of air, but leads to the formation of a draft.
The linear dimensions of the hood, ideally, should match the dimensions of the inlet. Or be more. If the dimensions of the hood deviate downwards, new clean air will not enter the bath.
If you want to increase the outflow of exhaust air, the dimensions of the hood make it larger than the supply vent. Or they arrange 2 hoods for 1 inlet.

For the influx of clean air in the steam room, an inlet is equipped, as a rule, 0.2-0.4 m from the floor surface. It can be on the same wall as the hood, or on the opposite side. It is desirable - next to the stove, so that the incoming air has time to heat up and enters the soaring zone already warm. The inlet is closed with a ventilation grill so that the air is drawn into the room in separate streams, and not in a continuous stream.

Step by step installation guide

The classic workflow is:

In the walls of the bath, two holes are made with transverse dimensions of 100-200 mm. It is advisable to form ducts even at the construction stage, so that later you do not have to carve them into finished walls. One hole is made behind the stove (or next to it), at a distance of 20 cm from the floor. The other is on the opposite wall, diagonally, at a distance of 20 cm from the ceiling.
Boxes are installed in the holes. They can be bought ready-made - made of metal or plastic. In chopped baths, it is better to use wooden boxes knocked together from boards.
A ventilation grill is placed on the inlet, and a valve on the exhaust. If one of the holes goes outside, an insect net is installed on the outside of the box.

But this order of work is not the only correct one - it all depends on what kind of structure you have and what duct scheme you have chosen.

Advantages and disadvantages of such a system

Among the advantages of natural ventilation, the most significant are:

simple device and easy installation;
low cost - natural ventilation does not require the installation of expensive forced fans;
Efficiency in work - allows you to avoid spending on electricity;
reliability - the absence of mechanical devices makes natural ventilation practically “eternal”, not subject to breakdowns and not in need of repairs.

There are also disadvantages:

the dependence of the ventilation force on the temperature difference in the steam room and on the street;
in autumn and winter, cold air coming from the supply openings lowers the temperature in the steam room, drafts may occur;
smells from the street.

Agree, the shortcomings are insignificant. In a small bath, standing on its own site, natural ventilation is the most rational solution. If there are no pools and large washing facilities inside, there is no point in overpaying for mechanical fans (for forced air exchange). If, for some reason, natural ventilation will not cope with the functions assigned to it, you can convert it to mechanical at any time - just put fans on the holes!

Ventilation is needed in all rooms, the rules for its installation are prescribed in SNiP 41-01-2003. But they concern only residential, public and industrial premises in which conditions favorable for a person are created. At the same time, it is taken into account that people stay in such premises for a long period of time and for everyone it is necessary to create the same standard indicators of the microclimate and air quality.

Baths have completely different tasks, they create a stressful microclimate for the body - high temperatures (in Russian baths up to + 60 ° C, in saunas over + 100 ° C) and high humidity (up to 90%). Moreover, in one room, the temperature and humidity indicators should vary widely, depending on the wishes of the washers. Changing the microclimate parameters should be carried out as soon as possible, and the achieved values should be maintained for a relatively long period of time. And another very important difference between the bath and ordinary rooms. If, secondly, people have the opportunity to “protect themselves” from temporary inconveniences with clothes, then this is impossible to do in the baths.

Illustration of the microclimate in a steam room - high temperature and hot steam

Based on these features, the ventilation of baths must perform individual tasks, and this affects the principles of its design and features of operation. Ventilation in the bath can be natural and forced, each type has its own characteristics, characteristics, advantages and disadvantages. In this article, we will talk in detail about only one type of ventilation - natural.

We have already found out the tasks of bath ventilation and how it differs from the ventilation of other rooms, now it's time to tell you how they can be achieved. The methods depend on the architectural features of the room and your preferences.

First you need to remember the lessons of physics from school. Ventilation of premises occurs due to the difference in air density in the street and in the room. Warm air has less weight and rises, cold air is heavier and sinks down, so-called convection occurs. Accordingly, in order for the room to be ventilated, hot air must be able to leave, and cold air must be allowed to enter, inlet and outlet openings are needed. These can be ordinary cracks in windows and doors or specially made ventilation holes.

On the Internet, you can find statements that these holes must necessarily have the same dimensions, otherwise the ventilation does not work or “blowing in the wrong direction”. Only those who skipped classes can say that. The ratio of the size of the inlet and outlet of air does not affect the performance of ventilation.

Square ventilation window

If the outlet, for example, can release only 1 m3 of warm air per hour, then exactly the same amount will enter the cold room, no matter what the size of the inlet, and vice versa. And the effect of reverse thrust is obtained in the case of wind backwater or in the complete absence of fresh air. In the first case, a strong external wind "drives" the air into the room, in the second case, after the air leaves the room, a small vacuum is formed, which draws the air back into the room. This is not to say that ventilation is completely absent, it just becomes cyclical and works on a back-to-back basis. Of course, the efficiency of such ventilation approaches zero, the air moves a little only near the holes.

And with these phenomena it is clear, now we will consider specific types of natural ventilation of the bath. Let's start with the simplest ones and work our way up to the more complex ones.

The simplest, but also the least effective way of ventilation.

In the steam room, a door opens or a door and a window open at the same time - ventilation occurs quickly, but not in the way we would like. Why?

Steam is removed from the bath, and this has negative consequences.

Firstly, if you open the door, then the steam does not go out into the street, but into other rooms. Humidity rises sharply in them, heated steam immediately condenses on all surfaces. What can happen next - no need to explain.
Secondly. Lowering the temperature in the steam room is only a subjective phenomenon. There are two concepts of temperature - actual and perceived. The actual temperature is a physical indicator, the perceived temperature is subjective. We feel the same actual temperature in different ways depending on environmental factors. Increased humidity "increases" the temperature we feel, strong wind lowers it. So, due to simple ventilation, only excess steam can be removed, and the actual air temperature returns to its previous values within a few minutes.
Thirdly, ventilation will never be able to establish stable indicators of the microclimate in the room. As soon as the doors are closed, the temperature and humidity rise sharply; as soon as the doors are opened, the humidity and temperature also drop sharply.

Bottom line - ventilation is not the method of ventilation that should be used all the time. This is an extreme method, it is recommended to resort to it only in case of urgent need.

This method can be considered more successful, but it is possible only in one case - the furnace of the sauna stove is located in the steam room. Warm air is removed through the firebox and chimney; it can enter through floor cracks, an ajar window or door. Sometimes a special hole is made in the lower part of the door leaf; to improve the design, it is closed with a decorative grille.

Benefits of ventilating a bath with a stove.

Ease of execution. There is no need to make special products in the log house. Any additional hole in a wooden wall does not improve its performance, to put it mildly. If mistakes were made during the period of making the vents and installing decorative gratings, then the risks of moisture getting onto the crowns of the log house increase. Moisture will dry out for a very long time, and prolonged stay of wooden structures in a wet state has an extremely negative effect on their strength and durability of use.
The ability to control the frequency of air exchange in the room. Ventilation is “controlled” by the damper and the stove doors. It is necessary to speed it up - the damper and the furnace door open all the way, the temperature has become favorable - the damper closes a little. You can easily find the optimal position of the gate, the microclimate in the steam room stabilizes, the ventilation rate of the room has stable values.
Stove with gate - photo
Versatility of application. It does not matter what materials the bath is built from, what its dimensions and architectural features are. In addition, this system allows for simple upgrades. For example, it is worth making an inlet behind the stove and the air entering the bath will be slightly warmed up. The exhaust is still the chimney.

There are, of course, disadvantages, we will name the main ones.

Insufficient performance. It will not be possible to quickly change the temperature or humidity in the steam room.
The presence of "dead" zones. Mixing of air throughout the volume does not occur, there are zones with drafts and zones with stagnant air.
Dependence of draft (ventilation) on weather conditions.

Despite some disadvantages, this method of ventilation in combination with ordinary ventilation is very often used in "budget" baths.

For a budget steam room, the best option is to ventilate the stove and ventilate

Airing the bath with a stove - scheme

The best option for ventilation devices for most baths.

Advantages:

Important. It is desirable to think over the ventilation device even before the start of the construction of the bath. Solve questions with the specific placement of holes and their overall dimensions. We advise you to make the height of the ducts no more than the height of the beam, and to adjust the length of the holes.

Prices for bath fans

bath fan

Why is it better to provide ventilation at the construction stage?

Firstly, it is much more physically difficult to make holes in an already finished building.
Drilling a hole in a log house is a laborious process.
Secondly, there is a risk that the hole will hit the dowel, especially for the upper outlet air. It is located in close proximity to the Mauerlats of the truss system, and they are fixed more often than ordinary crowns, and only metal bars or pieces of building reinforcement are used as dowels.
Thirdly, if you make a hole with a metal crown, then an expensive tool will fail after a “meeting” with a dowel. And it will not always be possible to “reanimate” a chisel or chisel after trying to cut through the metal.
Fourthly, the metal dowel in this place is almost impossible to cut off. You can’t get close with a grinder, with a hacksaw as well, but you won’t wish the enemy to cut with a file. We'll have to poke the air in another place. And who needs an extra hole in the bath wall or an increase in its size? Especially if you have already made holes in the outer and inner skin and bought ventilation grilles under its “planned” dimensions. "Meeting" with a metal dowel is a very unpleasant situation from all points of view.

Variants of placement and sizes of ventilation products

There are a few general rules for all natural ventilation products. Firstly, in order to improve the efficiency of the system, the cold air inlets should be located at the bottom of about 20 centimeters from the floor level. The exit holes should be placed at the maximum height - under the ceiling or on the ceiling. Secondly, the mixing of different layers of air in the volume of the steam room is improved if the inlet and outlet are located at the maximum distance from each other, preferably along the diagonal of the room. Where are they recommended to be installed?

It can be done at the bottom of the steam room door leaf.

Advantages - there is no need to make an extra hole in the wall of the bath. This saves time and effort, in addition, the possibility of getting wet of the lower rims of the log house is excluded. The disadvantage is that in most cases the doors are located opposite the shelves for taking bath procedures, cold air flows appear, creating a number of inconveniences.

Under the shelf

Advantages - the inlet is imperceptible, cold air flows are well mixed with warm air throughout the volume. The disadvantage is that access to the grate for opening / closing the damper is more difficult. If during washing it is possible to regulate the intensity of ventilation only with the help of the upper grate, then after airing the baths, both should be closed. And this means that after some time you will have to visit the steam room specifically to close the vent.

Important. The dampers on the ventilation openings must be installed two for each - outside and inside the steam room. After airing the baths, both should be closed. Choose a grille installation technology that guarantees complete tightness of the external dampers. It is strictly forbidden to get atmospheric moisture on the crowns of the log house.

Behind the oven.

Air inlet behind the furnace - diagram

The best option. Cold air from the street hits the stove, warms up a little and breaks into several separate and low-speed flows. Drafts are completely eliminated. Disadvantages - it is not always possible to install decorative grilles in this place. If the stove is close to the wall, then the high temperature adversely affects the plastic or wooden materials of the decorative grille. In addition, according to safety regulations, such places behind the stove must be insulated with sheet metal using thermal insulation.

Doesn't fit your particular case? No problem, make a hole where you see fit.

As for the outlet, there are fewer problems with its placement. Our only advice - do not do it in the ceiling. Waterlogged air cannot be taken out to the attic, it will cause constant wetting of the wooden elements of the truss system, and its premature repair always costs a pretty penny. To protect the rafters, moist air will have to be brought to the roof. Why make an additional hole in the coating, why worsen the tightness of the roof coating with your own hands and at your own expense?

Dimensions of openings for natural ventilation

The technology for calculating the dimensions of ventilation openings is indicated in the current regulations. Determining the size of vents for natural ventilation is much more difficult than for forced ventilation - there are too many factors beyond the control of people. The main performance parameter of the ventilation system is the frequency of air changes. For residential premises, the minimum value of the multiplicity is regulated, while both the temperature in the rooms and the temperature outside are taken into account. The temperature in residential premises fluctuates within insignificant limits, which simplifies the work of designers.

In pairs, the situation is much more complicated - the temperature and humidity indicators vary over a very wide range. In addition, the rate of arrival / entry of air in different situations may differ significantly. Such preconditions make it almost impossible to accurately calculate the optimum air exchange rate for natural ventilation.

Some bath owners are afraid to suffocate while taking bath procedures due to lack of oxygen. We bring to their attention that one cubic meter of air is enough for one person to breathe for an hour and a half. Calculate the cubic capacity of the steam room and find out how long you can safely steam, the bill goes to tens of hours.

Carbon monoxide can cause problems. If you closed the stove gate before the firewood is completely burned out, then no ventilation will help. It can ventilate the room only if there is no more carbon monoxide coming in. Heat the stove correctly and never burn out, do not rely in vain on ventilation.

How to make a ventilation hole in the wall of the bath

For example, we will take the most difficult option - the outer and inner lining of the walls of the bath has already been done. The hole can be round, square or rectangular.

Step 1. Mark the location of the vent on the inner lining of the steam room. Before starting work, you must not only know the location of the hole, but also its dimensions and configuration. It is desirable that air ducts and decorative grilles are available, this will make it possible to accurately control the size of the hole and not do extra work.

Step 2 Prepare a long drill for wood, the working length should exceed the thickness of the bath wall together with the outer and inner lining. In the center of the drawn contour of the vent, drill a through hole from the inside of the steam room. The exit of the drill outside the steam room will be the center of the air. Draw around it the dimensions of the hole, similarly made in the steam room.

Step 3 Remove the elements of the inner and outer skin in the contour. If your bath is sheathed on both sides with natural clapboard, then the process is simplified, just carefully cut the boards. If metal sheets were used on the outside, use a grinder.

Step 4 Carefully inspect the supporting structures of the skin, if they are damaged, repair. Drill through holes as close as possible to each other along the contour of the ventilation duct, constantly check where they exit from the outside of the wall. The drill must always be perpendicular to the plane. Drill the same holes over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe vent, the more there are, the easier it is to make a hole in the wall.

Video - How to drill a large diameter hole in a tree

Step 5. Next, you need to work with a chisel and a chisel, gradually remove the wooden bridges between the holes. It will not be possible to completely gouge a hole on one side of the wall - it is too difficult to reach with a tool. Do half of the work from the inside of the steam room, and the other half from the outside. It is not necessary to carefully level the surfaces of the holes, the main thing is that the air duct fits easily into the channel.

The most difficult physical work is done, you can proceed with the installation of the duct and gratings. Don't be discouraged if it takes a long time to make holes, even experienced builders can rarely prepare more than two holes a day.

How to install ducts and grilles

For air ducts, you can take metal galvanized or plastic pipes, the length is determined by the length of the passage. Select the grate according to the size of the hole; to adjust the ventilation efficiency, it must have dampers.

Prices for air ducts

duct

Step 1. Insulate the planes of the hole with mineral wool, carefully insert the air duct into place. In order to firmly fix the pipe in the desired position, use mounting foam. Excess foam that has come out should be cut off after hardening.

Step 2 If there is waterproofing between the sheathing and the wall, foam the gap between the wall and the hole in the sheathing with foam, it will seal the cut and prevent water from entering the wooden structures.

Step 3 Fasten the gratings, the method of fastening depends on the material of manufacture of the wall cladding and the crate.

We fix the ventilation grilles. In the photo - the grill on the outside of the bath

Mineral wool prices

mineral wool

Check ventilation with a smoldering firebrand or other source of smoke. Bring it to the inlet and observe how and at what speed the air flows in the steam room.

In the photo, the air inflow valve and its performance check

Experiment with natural ventilation at various damper settings, from maximum to minimum.

Video - Installing the KPV 125 valve

Video - Ventilation in a bath with a Termofor air conditioner

The ventilation system in the steam room is one of the most important components of a comfortable reception of water procedures and a pleasant pastime. If in a living space its main task is to provide space with fresh air, then in a bathhouse it not only removes excess moisture, but also regulates the temperature regime. In some cases, it may be necessary to quickly cool the steam room (if the procedures are taken by overweight people or children). How to make ventilation in the bath so that it sets the required temperature in a few minutes?

Today's article is devoted to such an important issue.

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Air exchange device for a bath: rules and recommendations

The ventilation device in the bath depends on the design features and architecture of the building. No special hole is required in cases where there are small gaps in the floor for draining the liquid. Obviously, they will be enough to supply fresh air.

Most steam rooms are equipped with small windows. In the open state, they are delegated the role of the simplest device for air exchange. An effective way to change the air is to adjust the position of the gate. But this rule is true only in cases where the furnace is located in the steam room.

Experts state that the listed options are the most affordable and effective in organizing the ventilation system in the bath. But what to do in cases where air does not penetrate from the underground, due to the absence of cracks, and the firebox is located in the next room? I would like to dwell on such pairs in more detail. So, do you need ventilation in the steam room and why exactly?

1. For high-quality connection of air flows. Natural convection is not able to balance the temperature regime over the entire area. The walls have one meaning, the ceiling has another, and the floor has a third. The difference can reach 10-20 °C. In such conditions, it is not too pleasant to take any water procedures.
2. To ensure the influx of masses from outside. For a sauna where there is only 1 person, and not longer than 25 minutes, forced ventilation is not required. The supply of oxygen is sufficient. In other cases, fresh air is an important component.

The most difficult cases arise when negligent developers have an irresistible desire to realize the impossible. In some, the ventilation of the steam room is so powerful that the room simply does not warm up. Others do not have a corresponding system at all. There can be only one advice here - do not go to extremes!

Properly implemented ventilation in a Russian bath, which takes into account the regulatory requirements and features of each room, is inexpensive, and its benefits are enormous. The main task is to take into account all the nuances: wall thickness, material, sheathing, etc.

If air exchange is not provided in principle, there is a high risk of oxygen starvation. In combination with high humidity and temperature, people can even be poisoned by gases. Excessively productive can contribute to a longer heating of the room. Fresh air is sent inside very quickly, the floor remains constantly cold.

Bath ventilation

Where is the air exchange system installed?

Experts say that supply solutions are arranged in 2 zones: under wooden deck chairs or behind the base of the stove. Let's consider these options in more detail.

A huge number of air mass movement patterns are presented on the World Wide Web, but in most cases they are implemented by amateurs and do not deserve any attention. Professionals recommend fulfilling only a couple of conditions:

the hood is done exclusively at the top;
air intake holes - at the bottom of the walls;
ventilation ducts are located diagonally.

Such solutions will be sufficient for good oxygen circulation. Any other reasoning about this is the fruit of a sick fantasy, nothing more. Corresponding valves can be located at different levels, in fact, as well as holes for removing air masses.

Bath ventilation in the form of a small hole under the ceiling is used only upon completion of water procedures, when it is necessary to completely ventilate the room. As for the second opening, it is desirable to arrange it 40 cm lower. The optimal period of use is during the washing process.

Advice! Some novice builders, answering the question of how to make ventilation in the steam room, advise connecting adjacent system holes to separate internal air ducts. Then mount 2-3 valves. This complication does not increase the comfort when taking water procedures. Do not experiment - simplicity is everything!

A well-organized air exchange system for a bath is the simplest, in which there are no common channels under the skin. The optimal solution to the issue is to make several holes for each of the walls located in different rooms and place small tubular elements in them. Grating valves can be used as a plug. This option is successfully used both in the case of a traditional Russian bath and exclusive steam rooms.

Natural air exchange

One of the most affordable options for organizing ventilation in chopped baths. The main advantages are efficiency, safety, simplicity and minimal cost. The corresponding holes are placed taking into account the location of the stove, the material from which the building is made, the number of shelves.

A general recommendation will help to make ventilation correctly - the recesses should be located at different heights - it is enough to raise the inlet from the floor by only 0.2 m, and the outlet - 0.25 m below the ceiling. When choosing, it is necessary to take into account their position not only inside the building, but also near the outer walls. We do not recommend violating the facade composition of the object.

As for the size of the holes for natural ventilation in the bath, they are chosen in the range from 300 to 400 cm2. If in doubt about a specific value, it is better to stop at a larger option. An incorrect system can lead to excessively rapid air exchange, and as a result, cooling in the steam room. In this case, shutters can not be dispensed with.

Advice! Ventilation in a steam room or bath will look aesthetically pleasing if the openings of the system are covered with decorative grilles.

Forced ventilation

Forced ventilation in the bath is more difficult in terms of self-implementation, since it involves the installation of special electrical equipment. Often, for a competent implementation, drawings are required, individual calculations of the power of the exhaust fan, intake, etc. During the installation process, you will also have to solve the problem associated with the special microclimate of the steam room.

Electrical equipment is incompatible with high humidity, harsh temperature conditions. For these purposes, it is better to use fans installed in a protected case. To make ventilation in the bathhouse with your own hands of the highest quality and safest, we recommend that you study the relevant instructions, regulations and recommendations of the PUE. Preliminary theoretical preparation is the key to successful undertakings.

Forced ventilation of the steam room allows you to flexibly adjust the input parameters for the rate of renewal of air masses in the room. It does not depend on the environment, the weather. The ventilation of the floor in the bath according to the forced principle has also proven itself excellently. It remains effective regardless of the strength and direction of the wind.

Option for forced ventilation in the bath (video)

Ventilation in the bath

We master the system with our own hands

So, the main question is do-it-yourself ventilation in the bath - how to implement it, what should it be? First of all, do not rush and chop from the shoulder. Secondly, carefully study the source data. In most buildings, there are simply no holes and crevices in the floor, doors and windows. For a modern Russian bath, this is a typical situation.

Corresponding holes must be made by hand. Do-it-yourself ventilation in the sauna should include recesses for the intake and removal of air masses. A building made according to traditional standards does not include external and internal cladding, since sawn timber is the main building material.

Among the most important indicators are traditionally called temperature and humidity level, forgetting about another fundamental indicator - air exchange. This is very reckless, because even if you carefully insulate the room and achieve comfortable humidity, staying in a steam room with stale air will not only be uncomfortable, but also dangerous. If you want to avoid such a fate, take care of the ventilation in the steam room in advance. You can even equip such a system with your own hands - let's take a closer look at how to do it right.

Before proceeding to a description of the features of the direct technological process, let's first clarify why ventilation is necessary in the bath in the steam room. It is no secret that many skeptics consider its arrangement only an unjustified waste of time and money, but this is far from the case - the lack of a ventilation system can lead to at least three sharply negative consequences.

Types of ventilation systems for the steam room

Ventilation in the bath in the steam room can be of three types:

natural;
mechanical;
combined.

The natural system assumes that air circulation is provided by the difference in pressure and temperature levels in the steam room and on the street. The principle of operation here is simple: first, hot air rises to the upper zone of the steam room, and then leaves through the exhaust hole to the street, thereby discharging the atmosphere in the bath - this creates the conditions for drawing in new air through the supply hole. The advantage of such ventilation is minimal financial costs. But here one nuance must be taken into account: with insufficient insulation of the structure, the natural air duct will be an obstacle to high-quality heating of the bath.

Steam room ventilation scheme

Mechanical ventilation operates by means of special devices that control the exit of exhaust air and the supply of new air flows into the steam room. As a rule, various kinds of fans act as such devices. The advantage of the mechanical system is that ventilation equipment can be installed in almost any area of the room.

Advice. A classic duct fan is not suitable for a bath, as it will not endure the harsh conditions of a steam room - it is better to use special models made of glass-filled polyamide that can withstand high temperatures - up to 130 degrees.

Combined ventilation combines elements of both natural and mechanical systems. It functions in this way: mechanical devices are responsible for extracting the exhaust air, and fresh air enters through a separate supply opening.

Ventilation schemes

There are at least five working ventilation schemes that can be used in a steam room - choose a specific option based on the design features of your Russian bath.

The supply opening is behind the stove at a distance of 50 cm from the heater, and the exhaust opening is opposite, at a distance of 20 cm from the base of the floor. The air is removed forcibly - this is provided by a fan built into the lower opening.
The supply opening is behind the heater at a distance of 30 cm from the floor base, the exhaust opening is at a distance of 20 cm from the floor on the opposite wall. The air is forced out - with the help of a fan. The main feature of the scheme is a very high rate of heating of fresh air.

Bath ventilation systems

Both openings - both flow and exhaust - are placed on one side directly opposite the stove, but at different levels: the first is at a distance of 30 cm from the base of the floor, the second is 20 cm from the ceiling. The system operates using a fan, which is mounted in the exhaust opening.

Advice. Such a scheme is suitable for baths with an internal placement of a steam room - when the room has only one external side.

The supply hole is behind the stove at a height of 20 cm from the base of the floor. There is no exhaust opening - instead, a special leaking floor is provided: the exhaust air masses pass through its slots to the ventilation pipe. Such a system guarantees the performance of an additional function - prompt drying of the floor.
The supply opening is opposite the stove at a distance of 20 cm from the base of the floor. The role of the exhaust hole is assigned to the blower. Such a scheme is suitable only for those baths where the heater operates continuously.

General rules for organizing ventilation in the steam room

Whichever version of the ventilation system you choose, you need to equip it according to certain rules.

Firstly, it is desirable to make all holes for ventilation even at the stage of building a bath, since punching channels in an already finished structure is a very difficult process. The ideal option is to decide on a suitable scheme during the design of a Russian bath in order to make all the necessary changes to the work plan in a timely manner.

Secondly, the dimensions of the exhaust opening should be approximately the same as the dimensions of the supply opening. In any case, the "output" should not be less than the "input", otherwise it will not be possible to ensure a full outflow of exhaust air from the steam room. And in order to speed up this process, it is allowed to increase the dimensions of the exhaust opening and even equip two “exits” in one room.

Make a valve to block the air flow in the cold season

Thirdly, in order to regulate the airflow of the steam room, all ventilation openings must be equipped with special shutters or shutters. They will come in handy in several situations: when heating the steam room, when the vents will need to be covered to quickly raise the temperature to the required level, as well as in the frosty season, when cold air will actively rush into a warm room.

Fourthly, the cross section of the ventilation hole should be related to the area of the steam room in the proportion: 1 cu. m area - 24 cm section. If the holes are small, the air in the room will not be able to quickly update.

Of course, organizing ventilation in the bath with your own hands is not an easy task. But it is fundamentally necessary: without air exchange, you can forget about the comfort, safety and durability of the steam room. Now you know the main rules and subtleties of this work - if you stick to them, you will definitely be able to make a high-quality ventilation system even without professional help.

Ventilation in the bath: video

Greetings, dear host. You built a house, gave birth to a son, planted a tree near the house, it's time to think about health. Yes, yes, about your health, and your family. It's time to build a bathroom!

How to build, from what materials, where to choose a place - you decide - you are the owner, and I will talk about, probably, the most important and important part of the construction - ventilation. Ideally, the calculation and organization of the ventilation system should be carried out at the construction planning stage. But in real life, there are many options:

the bath is being built, but they forgot about ventilation
construction is over, and then they remembered
steam room inside the house

Building a bath without ventilation is not a rare case, you should not sprinkle ashes on your head and think that you are stupider than others. Not at all, at least you remembered, and this is already something. Adjustment of air circulation is possible, even if it has not been provided.

It is not advisable to rely on burst ventilation: the accumulated heat does not go away with the door open, but, according to the laws of physics, turns into steam and settles in the form of condensate on the walls and floor. Hello fungus! It’s a pity, of course, because redevelopment, and this is what it is, will cost a pretty penny. And when in the house? What about a brick house?

air is enriched with oxygen
creates the optimum temperature
removal of excess moisture
removal of accumulated carbon dioxide

The diameter of the ventilation carried out affects the quality of the process: a small traction force will not allow the entire system to work fully, which will nullify all the work done, and an excessively powerful traction, on the contrary, will not allow creating the optimum temperature. Proper ventilation requires compliance with indents:

for supply air flow 10-30 cm from the floor
for the upper hood 20-30 cm from the ceiling

Do you need a steam room?

Yes, definitely yes. This famous and very useful building is being erected with the main goal: recovery. Steamed skin passes accumulated slags and dirt through itself, while saturating the body with oxygen, and what kind of oxygen are we talking about in a tightly sealed room?

A steam room without ventilation is more like a hyperbaric chamber with carbon dioxide; within a few minutes, unbearable heat and lack of oxygen will drive you out of the steam room. To arrange an outlet with a natural outlet, forced exhaust - depends on the technical and your capabilities. The main thing. The hood from the stove, it is gas, wood, must have a separate overpass.

Ventilation in the steam room in the Russian bath

The Russian bath differs from the sauna in the principle of operation of the steam room, the method of heating and ventilation. The bathhouse was heated "in black" and "in white". In the first version, the stove was heated, the stones laid on top of the hearth were heated, the burnt coals were raked out and carried away, the heat came from the stones, the air was outflowed through the door or window. In the second version, the stove worked during the park, the smoke came out through the chimney, and excess heat also went through it. In a modern bath, in addition to the chimney, additional exits are used.

There are many options: in the finished room, connect the steam outlet of the vent to the existing air ducts, through other rooms, when the wiring goes inside the house, bring a separate pipe to the street by drilling a hole in the wall.

The location of the holes varies depending on the desired result: the hood is lower - the temperature rises faster, higher - better air circulation.

Steam room ventilation

Supply and exhaust diameter

Basement. The steam room is ready. The only opening is the front door. Already good. For the organization of forced ventilation we use it. It's easier - cut a hole at the bottom of the door with a jigsaw, put blinds, grating.

Better - in front of the door, from the side of the steam room, build a box with outlets from sewer pipes under the stove and to the side. Use the grate with a valve - in winter, the air is colder, it will take longer to warm up the room.

The air flow from under the stove will rise up, capturing heat, and an additional draft of fresh air will go from the pipe laid aside (in winter it can be tightly closed with a valve). Next, we cut a window to Europe. Kidding. Outside.

From the outside, we mark the approximate place where you need to make an extract. Above the ground - lucky, below the level - we remove the soil, make a dig (so as not to miss, it is better to take it wider). A concrete wall or masonry can be drilled with a special tool. It is unlikely that he will be found by a non-specialist.

Alternatively, rent a tool. You go to the Internet, open sites that specialize in such a service, and place an order. But you and I are simple people, we will break through. A puncher is not a rare thing, I have it, I think you will also have it.

We go down to the basement again. I managed to sheathe the walls - nothing, we will remove the sheathing. On a bare wall, mark the place where the pipe exits with a marker. Be careful with the diameter! Above, I already gave the calculation formula. You can take a piece of pipe and circle around. Silently stepping back along the perimeter of the circle (the hole should eventually be slightly larger than the diameter of the pipe), a through hole is drilled with a perforator, after 2-3 cm the next one, and so on in a circle.

With a chisel you break the formed jumpers - that's it, the opening is ready. You take out the remains of the wall, trim the edges and walls of the tunnel, and try to advance the pipe. Happened? Cool. No - pay attention to what interferes, bring down the excess.

When the wall is made of timber, the technology for cutting the opening is on the same principle as on brickwork, with a small difference: a jigsaw is taken instead of a chisel. Sewer pipes are not suitable for an exhaust pipe, galvanization is required.

We insert the segment into the opening, fill the voids with insulation (glass wool, mineral wool), sew up the walls with wood. The gap between the casing and the pipe must be foamed. We make a box. It is needed to regulate the degree and height of heating the room. The thickness of the box corresponds to the diameter of the pipe with which it is connected, the length depends on the height of the steam room. Two windows are cut out on the box, which are equipped with a blind valve. One window is located about twenty cm from the ceiling, the lower one is 50-60 cm from the floor.

When the stove is fired, both exhaust dampers in the steam room are closed, as a result, the lower one opens first, and then, if necessary, the upper one. So you can easily adjust the temperature right during the procedure.

Using the built-in fan will improve the outflow of hot air from the room. Don't forget about gratings at the outlet of the duct to keep dry leaves and other debris out. By the way, it is necessary to clean the hood at least once a year.

Bastu has become widespread. The system has taken root due to the ease of installation and efficient heat distribution. Only now it is better to mount it initially, at the construction stage. The above scheme and the device for circulating air flows are fundamentally different from those described by me in this article earlier.

The bastu principle is an inverted glass. As you can see, both the supply air duct and the outlet are almost at the same height - just above the floor level.

The lower pipe, through which air enters the steam room, originates from the street, the outlet is located behind the stove - in fact, this is the thrust. The heated air outlet is located strictly diagonally from the stove, located below the bench. Warm air from the stove rises, creates an increased pressure under the ceiling, and cools down a little in the opposite corner and, descending, enters the ventilation.

The main difference is approximately the same air temperature along the height of the room, while in the Russian bath the upper bench is hotter, and the lower one is more comfortable.

When the heated air masses rush to the lower point of the exhaust, they will take heavy moist air with them and dry the floors faster.

The downside here is the dependence of effective work on the strength of the wind on the street, when the air blown into the exhaust pipe interferes with the natural outflow, moreover, it can reverse it. Then the steam room will be filled with the smell of burnt fuel, which will not allow you to get the proper result from the procedures.