What to make a draft floor in the bath. The floor in the bath from which it is better to make: we understand the nuances and choose the best option. Features of the floor device in different rooms of the bath

Once a person becomes the master country house, he has a quite predictable desire to have a bathhouse as well. This building is very easy to construct with your own hands, and you do not have to spend large financial resources. When building a bath, close attention should be paid to the floor structure - a well-mounted coating will ensure the outflow of water, and will not rot, and will not stop functioning ahead of time. In addition, pleasant appearance will always please the eye.

In order to adequately cope with the task, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the types of flooring and the specifics of their application.

Peculiarities

It is very important to pay attention to the design and implementation of the floor structure in the bath. If everything can be done qualitatively, it will be possible to provide high comfort to everyone who is in the room, as well as the durability of its service and versatility.

The peculiarity of the floor in the bath is that it performs several equivalent functions. Firstly, the coating ensures the safety of movement of a person who is at the junction of "two elements". Secondly, in the steam room area, it is responsible for removing excess water. Thirdly, it is an important part of the whole structure of the sauna house. It is worth adding that the floor also contributes to the retention of heat in the room.

Most often, the floor in the bathhouse is made of wood and concrete. Sometimes a brick is also used, which is characterized by high cost and a complex installation procedure.

Floor device

To design a steam room, one of two basic types of floor is used: leaking and non-leaking. The leaky one is always represented by a wooden structure made of floorboards, which is mounted on a supporting lag system. As for the lags, they are mounted at a certain height on the supporting pillars, lower crown or concrete screed. In order for the water to descend unhindered, a tiny gap is left between the rugs.

A non-leaking floor is made of wood or concrete. It is a monolithic coating with a small slope, at the bottom of which a hole is cut, connected to the sewerage system. Through it, the used water is sent to the drain hole.

Both varieties show certain advantages and disadvantages. A leaky floor collects pretty soon, but just as quickly it fails. It is worth adding that if it is not insulated, then the temperature in the steam room will be problematically low.

The impermeable layer exhibits a complex structure, which makes it possible to provide high-quality waterproofing and thermal insulation. In the event of a breakdown, you will have to completely remove the final layer, while for the leaking one, removing only part of the rugs is enough.

materials

According to experts, it is best to make the base of the floor from concrete, especially if there is a desire to build a capital building of brick or stone, with several rooms, which will be used throughout the year. The concrete floor must be supplemented with a water drainage system and provided with waterproofing. This design is strong and durable, it is not afraid of water, steam, or temperature changes. Concrete floors can be used for up to 45 years without additional repairs.

However, there are also certain disadvantages. Firstly, they are cold, so you have to insulate with an additional coating, for example, tiled or bulk. Secondly, concrete floors require significant investments, both financial and labor. Concrete floors can be poured in three stages.

If it is being built small bathhouse, operated only during the summer season, that is, it makes sense to choose wooden floor. It is quickly and easily built from environmentally friendly materials (preferably a larch board), looks very attractive and creates a unique atmosphere of an old Russian sauna in the steam room.

Unfortunately, such structures do not differ in durability, because in any case, wood will lose its original characteristics, being treated with water and temperature changes. From this it follows that it is worth being ready to re-lay the floor after a certain period of time.

During installation wooden floors recommended to choose coniferous trees- fir, larch, pine and others. Since this wood contains a large number of resin, it will be less susceptible to moisture, and the released essential oils will positively affect the health of those taking water procedures. It is worth adding that softwood floorboards, when wet, will not become slippery, which means they will prevent falling.

Wooden structures are divided into leaking and non-leaking. The pouring floor does not have insulation, therefore it is suitable for bathhouses located in the southern regions, or for options operated exclusively in the warm season.

A non-leaking floor is built from two layers of boards. The upper one, which will go on top of the lag, is preferably constructed from a pine or hardwood board, and the lower, dry one, can be equipped with a heater.

Logs are installed on the embedded beam in the case of a column foundation, or on the edge in a situation with a strip foundation. Contact points are insulated with roofing material coated with bitumen, eurobitumen or similar waterproofing material.

If the bath will stand on screw piles, then a hanging, non-leaking plank floor would be a good option. An additional layer of insulation will help you use the bath at any time of the year.

Wooden floors should not be painted or treated with chemical solutions. This is unlikely to add durability, but it will deprive the boards of the opportunity to breathe and fill the steam room with a unique coniferous aroma. The most acceptable solution would be to carefully sand the boards before starting construction. You can also cover the floor with a heat-resistant varnish on water based withstanding up to 120 degrees. The elastic coating resists moisture, fumes and dirt from penetrating into the boards.

The two-layer composition is applied to the sanded and disinfected coating using a paint brush. The whole procedure is carried out in a ventilated room at a temperature of 5-30 degrees. Only after the varnish has dried after 2-3 hours is it allowed to start laying the floor covering.

Preparatory work

Having decided to create a floor in the bath with your own hands, you need to start with high-quality preparatory work. The owner must deal with the type of soil that is present on his territory. If sand, then this is the most the best way, because in order to equip the spaces for outgoing drains, you only have to fill in gravel 25 cm thick. If there is soil that does not filter well, for example, clay, then you will have to make a tray for moving liquid waste outside the bath.

In case of large bath buildings It is also worth considering in advance the supporting pillars. Under each column with a cross section of 25 cm, a small foundation is prepared or sand is rammed. An asbestos pipe with the required diameter, buried in the ground, will become a good support. The soil is rammed around, and then it is poured into the finished formwork cement mortar. Before installation, the lag columns are aligned.

Before installing the floor, it is also necessary to remove excess rubbish, roots, large stones and the like from the ground. If a inner part bearing blocks are clearly damp, then work will have to be postponed until they are partially dry.

Mounting

A concrete floor is a conventional screed made from a solution of sand, cement and special fillers such as crushed stone, gravel or natural marble chips. Ready mixes sold in all construction stores dry and ready for use. The mixture is diluted with ordinary water, according to step by step guide, mixed with a perforator with a suitable nozzle and used for its intended purpose.

If the screed will be the final coating or light boards will be fixed to it, no additional ingredients need to be added to the mixture. If the concrete is to be covered with tiles, then it is recommended to introduce gypsum and anhydrite into the initial composition. You can make your own or purchase suitable option in the shop.

The concrete floor is mounted on logs or directly on the ground. If follow step by step instructions, then first of all it is necessary to create a system for removing water. It is a construction of a small hole dug in the ground and two pipes. The pit measures 40 x 40 x 30 centimeters and its walls and bottom are to be covered with concrete. On one side of the pit, a pipe with a cross section of 20 cm is inserted, which will go into the gutter or into autonomous septic tank. The second pipe will connect the pit to the bath itself.

It is recommended to provide it with a valve to prevent unpleasant odors from entering the steam room. In addition, it is recommended to make “vents” from asbestos pipes in the basement of the bath. They will help to eliminate unpleasant "olfactory effects".

At the second stage, it is necessary to prepare a platform on which the screed will be placed. To create a "pit", the top layer of soil is removed, then sand, brick breakage, gravel and crushed stone are poured into the resulting recess. A layer of the first three components should reach a thickness of 25 cm, and gravel - 10. Everything is well compacted and poured with a mixture of sand and cement, up to 6 centimeters thick.

It is important that the concrete layer is sloping towards the prepared hole with pipes.

After the mortar has dried, thermal insulation and waterproofing are laid. Mineral wool and foam plastic or vapor barrier and felt insulation are used as insulation. Roofing material or ordinary polyethylene film can act as a waterproofing agent. The last material is placed under the thermal insulation and on top of it. The next step is to mount metal grate for high quality reinforcement.

Finally, from the far corner to the exit from the steam room, the main screed is poured. Immediately you need to level the solution with a trowel and, if necessary, correct the flaws, which will require the help of another person. The floor will dry out for 2-3 days, and then boards or tiles can already be mounted on top. The trim is also laid at an inclination of 2 cm in the direction of the drain. If the concrete is chosen for the final floor, then it needs to be processed: leveled and sanded. Drain holes for comfort and aesthetic appeal should be closed with wooden bars.

The concrete floor is quite cold, so it is also recommended to prepare special wooden gratings for people to walk on. These grilles are dried after each visit to the bath. The same constructions apply in the presence ceramic tiles. They allow you to limit slipping on the floor and excessive heating of the tile.

The floor in a wooden bath is created in two different ways. The first allows you to make a leaky coating, and the second - non-leaking. In the first case, suitable for beginners, a deck of boards is mounted at intervals of approximately 3 mm to remove liquids. Through them, the water moves immediately into the hole for drainage. The dominant trump card is the fact that such a floor can be removed and dried, which means that it will not rot and can be used for a longer time.

The plot of land is leveled and sprinkled with gravel. Next, a usually clay surface with a pit is formed. If the choice is given cement screed, it is necessary to provide it with waterproofing. Wooden logs, which must first be processed, are mounted on supports through a gap of 50 cm - so the air can freely blow over the structure from all sides. Then the flooring is laid, leaving gaps of 2-3 mm between the walls, floor and boards. A slope for water flow is arranged under wooden deck what gravel is used for. The descending water will be directed to the filter well.

Such a design can last up to 6 years if the coating is periodically dried. It is recommended to collect it from larch or coniferous species, but in no case from oaks, which are very slippery when wet. The boards should be 4–5 cm thick. Usually, leaking floors are used in summer cottages, where the owners come periodically during the summer season.

The second type of wooden floors is non-leaking with a drain, which is chosen by the owners of year-round heating bathhouses. The floor is placed on a concrete screed with a slope, which is formed so that the water flows down without problems and is directed to a sump adapted for this. These coatings can last up to 12 years, due to the presence of draft and heat-insulating layers.

First of all, a hole is made with pipes according to the algorithm given for concrete floors. Then the site is prepared, and, if desired, a concrete screed is poured. The floor base is covered with roofing felt for waterproofing and expanded clay foam for insulation.

Logs are mounted on solid bedside tables, which are cut out of reinforced concrete and decorated with brick or concrete stands, through a gap of 50 centimeters. Then the intermediate base is installed. The height at which the logs are planned is determined depending on the height of the embedded beam (with column foundation) or concrete "tapes" (with strip foundation). Logs are placed in parallel with the narrow side of the steam room away from the walls of the bath - it is recommended to consider a gap of 3–4 cm. Cuts should also be made on the logs to achieve an inclined surface.

A water collector with dimensions of 40 x 40 cm and a depth of 30 cm is placed between the supports and compacted with concrete mortar or clay. At a height of 2 cm from the bottom, a pipe is mounted at an angle so that the liquid calmly enters the cesspool.

The "lower" floor of low-grade boards, fixed at the bottom of the beams, is covered with another layer of insulation and roofing material, as well as vapor barrier, which will protect all previous levels from liquids. After that, with a slope of 10 degrees, a finishing layer of tongue-and-groove boards is mounted. The mounting groove must fit inside the structure. The slope occurs due to the fact that the clearing in the lag increases on the side that goes to the collection point.

It is important that the boards adjoin closely, and the coating is attached to the joists with screws and nails at an angle of 45 degrees. The boards are selected with a thickness of 3-5 cm. The foundation for the stove-heater is mounted after installing the log, but before laying the flooring.

Upon completion of all these works, the room is dried, the boards are finally nailed, and the floor itself is supplemented with skirting boards. The plinth should be mounted so that the flowing moisture cannot be under the slats. This means that there should not be any gaps, and the sheathing should lie down on the baseboard itself.

Warm floor

The warm floor in the bathhouse allows not only to achieve the optimal microclimate in the room, but also to dry it with high quality. Thus, there is an extension of the duration of the operation of the finish and lower floors. The underfloor heating system is actually expensive, but it creates additional comfort for its owners.

To design a heated system in a bath, you can use two methods: water pipes or electric cable. The first option is rather complicated in terms of installation. Water pipes are heavy, especially under water pressure. This means that you will have to make reinforced reinforcement of the floor screed. It is a closed pipeline system, along which, due to the operation of the pump, moves liquid heat carrier. Usually it is water, but antifreeze, ethylene glycol and other varieties are also allowed. In order to equip such a system, you will need a boiler, a pump, plastic or copper pipes, as well as fittings.

The design is complex, so it will be problematic to identify the cause of the leak, especially if there is concrete screed. And in case of serious damage, you will have to change the entire system. The disadvantages of the water floor in the steam room also include:

• installation complexity - many bends, difficult to maintain necessary intervals between pipes;
• the use of a water pump is a plentiful waste of energy resources;
• difficult temperature control.

There are two ways of laying a water floor: concrete and flooring. The first is similar to laying electronic cables, but is thicker. The pipe laying step reaches 40 cm. Sharp bends and kinks that interfere with the circulation of the coolant should not be observed. The second is carried out on a special basis made of wood or polystyrene foam. In addition, a warm floor can also be mounted on a wooden surface.

For the installation of a floor with water heating, pipes made of metal-plastic, polyethylene or steel are most often used. Their laying is carried out in two ways: "snake" or "snail". The first method is available only to professionals, as it is considered very laborious. Its main disadvantage is that the floor surface experiences different temperature conditions. At the entrance, they are usually the highest, and the farther away, the colder. The fact is that the water supply occurs from one side, and leaves - to the other. The second laying method allows you to evenly distribute heat throughout the floor.

For the construction of the electrical system, factory "cable floors", infrared film models or infrared rod mats are used. Very often there are concerns about the safety of using an electric heated floor in a steam room or washroom. The owners are worried that due to a breakdown there will be a threat of electric shock. However, this option is impossible, because the possibility of the appearance of liquid in the system tends to zero. The design warms up under the action of high temperatures and dry air, and even in the event of a breakdown, moisture simply does not have time to get inside.

Electrical cables are quite simple and in every way easy to install. They are sold ready-made "submarines", which remains to be placed on the floor surface and poured with concrete. The cable must be laid on a mesh base. This system has no special problems with repair and installation. In addition, it is equipped with temperature sensors.

Infrared electric underfloor heating is called the most affordable and the easy way providing auxiliary heating. Thermal film, sold in rolls, is rolled out on the cover, and strips with heating elements are glued to the base with a primitive adhesive tape. There is no need for a cement screed, nor for additional waterproofing and thermal insulation.

Tile adhesive is immediately poured on top of the film, and tiles are mounted, usually from porcelain stoneware or clinker. The floor covering can be placed directly on the warm layer, but the craftsmen still prefer to leave an insulating and leveling layer between the film and the floor lining.

Infrared floors are completely sealed and electrically safe and can be used even on floors with wooden components. The maximum heating temperature is 45 degrees and is very comfortable for visitors.

Elements of a rod infrared heat-insulated floor are also called mats. The heating elements in them are rods that are attached to the power wires. The rod "joins" are made in parallel, so the failure of one rod will not lead to disruption of the entire system, which is very thoughtful. The core floor is mounted in tile adhesive or cement screed.

Conventional underfloor heating is placed on thermal insulation, then leveled with a screed, on top of which the final coating is placed. Professionals also recommend not saving on waterproofing, which can prevent condensation from appearing during the work process. As a waterproofing, a simple polyethylene film is used, as a heater - mineral wool, expanded clay, expanded polystyrene and penofol.

Do not forget that when choosing a warm floor, it is extremely important to correctly approach the purchase of the final floor covering. If it is a tile that heats up quickly, you will have to put wooden grates on top.

Design

There are a huge number of options for finishing bath rooms: steam rooms, washing rooms, rest rooms. However, the design of the flooring is not particularly original - as a rule, it is concise and functional, and other decorative elements are responsible for the aesthetic component. Usually the choice depends on personal preferences and financial capabilities. However, the main criteria are the use natural materials, minimalism and convenience.

The following materials are suitable for the floor:

• wood- looks natural, creates the right atmosphere, affordable and environmentally friendly;
• concrete- durable, but aesthetically unattractive, and the problem of cold is still acute;

• tile- a bunch of color solutions, it is possible to pick up non-slip models;
• porcelain stoneware- looks aesthetically pleasing, but slippery, so if applied, it is better for a rest room, matte or polished.

The traditional finish of the steam room involves the use of hardwood lining as a wall covering. Such walls warm up quickly, but their temperature is considered comfortable for casual touches. In no case should pine lining be used to decorate a steam room, since this base, when heated, produces toxic substances. For ceiling fit lining made of class A or B linden. If there is a desire to decorate a traditional Russian bathhouse, then a linden croaker with a bast will be the best finishing option.

The floor in the steam room can be made of wood or concrete, and a block of tiles can be placed near the stove. If it is decided to cover the entire surface with tiles, you will have to take care of wooden grates that will not heat up.

Most often, preference is given wood flooring. The interior should be lively, natural and without the presence of synthetic materials.

If preference is given to a steam room - a sauna, then you can use a variety of design solutions. For example, combine lining with stone, and brick with granite slabs and a block house. However, for the floor, only wooden coverings are again recommended.

For the washroom, as a rule, combinations of wood and ceramic tiles are chosen. For example, it can be softwood, which has high water-repellent characteristics and an attractive appearance.

The tile must be anti-slip and retain comfortable temperature. Otherwise, a special mat is required.

In the vestibule or rest room, aesthetic combinations of porcelain stoneware, natural stone, wallpaper and plaster are used. The design is carried out by harmonious combination furniture, accessories and finishing materials. There are no special requirements, the only thing is that the rest room should set in the right mood and allow you to spend time comfortably.

So that the process of installing the floor in the bath goes “without a hitch”, experts recommend following a number of regulations.

• For insulation, you should choose materials that are least responsive to elevated temperatures and humidity. That is, it is better to simultaneously organize not only heat, but also hydro and vapor barrier.
• The bars should be laid correctly so that the liquid has the opportunity to descend along the joint line.
• If there is a possibility of moisture filling the space under the floor, it is necessary to lay a gap from the internal backfill on top of the soil to wooden base. Its size reaches 15 centimeters.
• Fiberglass floor pads on waterproofing will make movement on the floor inaudible. They are made in the form of a thick tape, which is extremely convenient.

• wooden materials must be treated with an antiseptic. It is desirable to use a composition that can destroy all microorganisms and prevent damage to boards and beams. In addition, all wooden parts are pre-dried or purchased already in this form. If this is not done, the material will curl during operation, cracks will appear and the shelf life of the floor will be significantly reduced.
• If it is necessary to arrange ventilation, it is important to organize its correct output. Usually a separate pipe path follows the wall to the attic. If the foundation is monolithic, then it is recommended to make holes that will connect the ventilation gaps with the air outside.
• If the area of ​​​​the steam room is large, then one drain will not cope with all the water. It will be necessary to think about a few so that the material does not rot too quickly.
• Pouring floors not only eliminate moisture, but also lead to heat loss. In this situation, it is necessary to insulate the foundation and the basement of the log house, and place the sauna stove below the floor level.

• The floor in the steam room rises relative to ground level. And in a separate washing room, on the contrary, it should be lower than in other rooms.
• It is necessary to leave a ventilation gap under the floor. It can be installed with a height of 10-15 cm.
• It is worth mounting the finishing floor so that there is an angle of inclination in the direction that is directed along the length of the boards, and not in width. This will help extend the life of the products, since the direction of water is also one of the causes in the processes of decay.

• To prevent the board from bursting when screwing in the screw, you need to work at an angle of 45 degrees.
• In no case should you use linoleum, laminate and other synthetic coatings in the baths, even in the rest room. In any case, such materials will begin to heat up and release substances that can poison the body. In the dressing room, such a coating should be placed on top of a special flooring that makes it possible to dry the floors.
• Selected boards must be edged or tongue-and-groove. Their thickness varies from 25 to 30 mm.

Beautiful examples

Qualitatively processed concrete screed on the floor will go well with wooden walls and ceiling. The materials for the latter can be boards and lining, forming an original combination. Large window, laconic stove and simple wooden shelves perfectly complement the interior.

The tiled area under the heater can become a bright accent of the steam room and, echoing the washing room, combine two interiors into one. You can add brutality to the room if you replace it with natural or artificial natural stone. He, in turn, will require inserts on the walls of the steam room itself.

The main task of the floor in the bath is not only to ensure safety and convenience when moving, but also to play the role of quality sewer device, capable of removing water, but at the same time not rot or deteriorate. The most important thing is to get acquainted with the basic principles of installing the floor in the bath.

Floor types

When choosing the materials used, it is worth remembering that there are only two options: it is either wooden planks or concrete. The concrete version will be more durable, it will last more than 50 years, but it will also take longer to work on its creation.

As for wooden boards, they are laid on logs, and it takes little time and effort. However, the service life of the boards is about 7 years, and then the floor will have to be changed.

The wooden type of masonry bath flooring can be divided into two types:

Leaking floor. Rightfully considered the most simple type which is fairly easy to install. A distance of at least 3 mm must be observed between the main boards, but it can be increased to 2 cm. The photo shows an example of such a floor.

Tip: Don't nail the wood floor. This is necessary so that the entire structure can be taken out into the street in warm weather for drying. This maneuver will help preserve the life of the product.

The main feature of the leaking type of floor is that water easily gets under the boards, and special gaps for drainage are provided in the bottom cover. But such a floor provides for the presence of an internal drainage structure.

Non-leaking floor. The design of this bath floor is quite complex. It is installed on the so-called subfloor, which is built together with a heater, if necessary. There should be at least two centimeters between the wall and the boards, and the nails for fixing the floor are used quite large - the average size is 8 cm.

To lay such a floor, you need to take durable boards made of deciduous trees and install them in two rows.

Important: the boards must be perfectly flat, without gaps. When installing, they should be pressed tightly against each other, since water should not seep into the coating.

A non-leaking floor is installed on logs fixed to the supports. The supports are made of concrete, and their height should be strictly controlled so that it is on the same level. Concrete must be poured under the supports of the boards. Suitable concrete mix from cement grade M100, formed by wooden structures which are removed after the mixture has dried. Concrete is laid out on the cleaned surface, after which the appropriate amount of time is waited (depending on the characteristics of the concrete used).

When erecting a non-leaking floor, it is necessary to make a gap that will differ in height from the main part of the floor. It should also consist of wooden boards, clearly cut from wood and firmly pressed together. A siphon is inserted into the thickness of the gap, which accumulated water into a septic tank or sewer ditch.

Instead of a siphon, you can use a special tray that will match the depth of the boards. It should be installed at a slight slope so that water can be more easily removed from the bath.

How to make a concrete floor

The subfloor for a suitable bath flooring design is made predominantly of concrete. However, it is better to alternate the components, and it is better to do it in the correct sequence:

We strengthen and compact the soil well. It must be in a dry state, otherwise, when dried, it may shrink in volume, and this will jeopardize the durability of the structure. Soil thickness - 5 cm;

Reinforcing layer. It consists of a gravel-gravel mixture, which must be laid with a thickness of 10 cm;

We lay concrete - the first 5 cm;

If insulation is needed, and it is practically necessary to install it in a non-leaking field, felt or expanded clay can be taken as a basis. The main thing is to withstand the necessary time for drying. It is better to make the layer small, since the material may lose strength;

A layer of concrete with a chain-link mesh - is laid for maximum reliability and durability;

A layer of concrete that will level the surface. Concrete is applied in a thin layer, and the main task during its application is to create the most even surface, removing all recesses and gaps;

Coating.

Important: Smooth surface floor should be achieved considering the slope of the entire floor of 10 degrees. This is done so that the water flows as quickly as possible to the right place and is discharged into the sewer.

Material selection

The wood for the bath floor can be different, but larch is the best option, however, it will be more expensive in price than pine, fir, alder and birch. Larch is comparable in quality to oak, which outperforms all other types of flooring material in terms of wear resistance and service life.

It is best to use boards with a thickness of 30-35 mm and a width of 12 cm.

If you buy insulation in a store, such as cotton wool, it should be about 8 cm thick.

Important: the boards must be well dried after their processing. If this is not done, the material will twist during operation, cracks will appear and the life of the floor will be significantly reduced.

Underlayment bars should have dimensions of 70x100x2960 ​​mm. Lags - 5x18x24.6 cm. Skull bar - 4x4 cm. The subfloor is covered with boards of any size, but the thickness should be about 20-25 cm.

Floor assembly procedure

One of the options for assembling a durable and durable floor for a bath is shown in the image:

The procedure is as follows:

Underlayment bars are laid out on the strip foundation;

Two layers of rolled roofing felt are placed on top of the backing bars;

Tip: The underbeams are installed clearly from wall to wall so that there are no gaps. The ideal option is to install the bars on the supporting pillars, which are made of cement. Two such pillars are enough for the reliability of the structure, however, if the bath is large, three can be made.

Lags are installed. They need to be nailed down. It is necessary to install one log at each wall and one 10 centimeters from the previous one. The next one is mounted in the center, and from it you can calculate the distance to the next ones (about 20 cm);

Beams are installed for the subfloor, which are fastened on both sides of the lag firmly with nails;

A moisture-proof membrane is laid out on the damn floor, which is fixed with nails;

A layer is placed on top of the membrane basalt wool. It should be divided into segments that will correspond to the size of the areas between the lags;

Next, a finishing floor is laid, consisting of prepared boards. It is important to maintain a gap of 2 cm between the finished floor and the thermal insulation membrane. It is not recommended to leave a larger gap, as the floor may begin to sag.

Important: the finishing floor must be securely fixed. For this, nails 8 cm thick are used.

How to fix different elements floor structures

The backing beam must be fixed directly to the foundation. Perfect for this anchor bolts with a diameter of 1.2 cm and a length of 14 cm. The bolt must be mounted from above, since all other placement methods will be risky and unreliable. Even in the case of choosing a fixing method from above, care must be taken that the concrete does not crack. Therefore, the work is carried out carefully and slowly.

Tip: each subfloor beam must be fixed with four bolts.

The support bar is attached to the support post using galvanized corners measuring 6x6 centimeters. It must be attached to the beam with self-tapping screws. To support pillars there must be a different fastening - screws 0.5x5 cm. Each fastening will be enough, one for each structure, on each side. One - to the beam, one - to the support post.

Support bars and logs should also be attached to each other using corners in a similar way.

The cranial bars are connected to the previous layer quite simply. The number of nails that are used for fastening does not matter. It also doesn't matter at what distance connections occur.

Tongue-and-groove boards are fastened at well-defined angles of 45 degrees. You can mount them in a groove or in a spike - at the discretion of the master. The main thing is to make the fasteners reliable and correct.

Waterproofing should be fixed to each other and with lags only with brackets. Between fastenings it is necessary to withstand equal distance, which should not exceed 15 centimeters. It is also not recommended to mount at a distance of less than 10 cm, otherwise the material may begin to sag a little. You can take any stapler to complete the work, both small and large will do. It is important to try out the stapler before starting work on the rough material. If gaps are created, it is necessary to adjust the width of its attachment. First of all, it all depends on the quality and origin of the purchased thermal insulation material.

The heat-insulating material, when all actions on the fasteners have already been completed, must be covered with a special self-adhesive tape. For example, great option will be the Isofix brand.

Features of laying the finished floor

First, a rail is taken, the thickness of which can be ideal 2 cm. It is installed along the shortest wall using self-tapping screws. This design will help to create a support on which the entire finished floor will rely.

The very first board must be installed with a distance of about 2 cm from the wall. Fastening can be done with a spike or groove to the wall.

Boards in places where they intersect with lags, and each board intersects in several places, must be fastened with self-tapping screws. It is important to consider that wooden boards can burst from a sharp and inaccurate impact, creating cracks, so work should be done gradually. For high-quality fastening, one self-tapping screw is enough in the area of ​​\u200b\u200beach intersection with lags.

Thus, we connect all the boards, fastening them only with lags. The boards are not attached to each other, this is simply not necessary. In this case, each board must be wound into a spike or a groove, depending on the chosen method of fastening.

Tip: so that the board does not burst when screwing in the screw, you need to work at an angle of 45 degrees - besides, it is very convenient.

If it is necessary to cut the board, it should be done circular saw, which will help ensure the most accurate size and neat appearance of the work.

What tools might come in handy:

Screwdriver;

Plane;

Hacksaw (for wood);

Self-tapping screws, dowels, bolts;

Drills for hard alloys;

A hammer;

Level;

stapler;

Wooden materials of appropriate dimensions

Tip: it is best to lay the final floor so that there is an angle of inclination in the direction that goes along the length of the boards, and not in width. This will help prolong the life of the products, since the direction of the water also plays a role in the processes of decay.

And the last thing to consider: if you cut the boards, be sure to treat the cuts with an antiseptic.

We have already considered various options for flooring, including wooden ones. If you haven't read the article yet, you can do so right now.

In this publication, let's find out how to prepare the foundation for the construction of a leaking and non-leaking wooden floor, how to properly make supports for the log, what to make the logs from, what height to make the supports and consider other issues related to the construction of the foundation of wooden floors in the bath.

How to make logs for the floor in the bath

In order for the wooden floor in the bath to withstand a sufficient load, it is laid on logs - thick beams or logs installed at a certain distance depending on the thickness of the boards from which the floor will be laid.

Larch or pine wood, which is not afraid of moisture and has sufficient strength, is best suited for lag arrangement.

As you know, the floor in the bath should have a slight slope towards the pit to collect water. Therefore, the logs are also not performed at the same level, but with a slight difference in height, so that the boards to be laid go with a slight slope.

Before laying the logs, you need to decide on the direction of water flow, so as not to redo the floor later. But this applies mainly to non-leaking floors, the water from which is completely collected and discharged into the sewer. The direction of laying the log should be perpendicular to the direction of water flow.

If the floor is planned to be made leaky, then the slope can be omitted and the floors can be laid without a slope.

What section to make logs?

In order for the logs to withstand the weight of those who are being washed, their cross section is selected depending on the distance between the supports on which they will be laid. The greater this distance, the thicker the lags will be. The ratio of the height of the log to the width is usually chosen 1.5-2 (that is, the height is 1.5-2 times the width).

The main dimensions of the log, depending on the distance between the supports, are shown in the table below:

As you can see, with a small distance between the supports, you can save on buying thick timber or logs.

You can save even more on the timber by installing columnar supports under the logs. So, with a log length of 6 meters, only one support in the middle will reduce the cross section of the log from 220 x 80 mm to 150 x 80 mm. And if the supports are placed after 1 m, then you can use a bar with a section of 80 x 50 mm. The difference is visible to the naked eye.

When choosing a lag section, do not forget to take into account the required mark of the finished floor, which will depend on the mark of the top of the supports, the thickness of the floorboard, the mark of the crown or strip foundation.

How far apart are the lags?

The distance between the lags (lag step) is selected depending on the thickness of the boards from which the floor will be laid. The thicker the board, the greater the distance between adjacent lags and vice versa.

The distance between the lags, depending on the thickness of the floor boards, is given in the table:

The device supports under the logs

Column supports for logs can be made of various materials - wood, brick or monolithic concrete. In the case of brick or wood supports, a small base should be made as a base. concrete pad 200 mm thick, protruding in each direction by at least 50 mm from under the support, which will be made on this site.

In general, the columnar support will have the following structure:

• 10 cm sand bedding;
• 15 cm of crushed stone or gravel;
• 20 cm concrete base;
• The supporting structure is made of brick (wood).

Under each support, you should dig a hole 40 cm deep, make a sand bed, tamp gravel or crushed stone on top, then set the formwork 200 mm high and pour the concrete base of the support. After the concrete has hardened concrete base lay a piece of roofing material, after lubricating the top of the base with hot bitumen.

The concrete mixture for pouring the base can be prepared in next proportion- 1 part of cement, 3 parts of sand, 5 parts of crushed stone (gravel).

Underfloor space arrangement

After the supports are placed, you can take up the space that will be under the floor.

If you have on the site good soils(sand), then you can make a leaking floor, and pour 250 mm of gravel under the floor onto the ground. Through the gravel, the water will go into the sand and the installation of drainage pipelines will not be needed.

If at the construction site of the bath there are soils that do not absorb water well, then a non-leaking floor should be made with the collection of water in a pit and its subsequent diversion outside the bath into a collection well or onto a relief.

If you want to make a leaking floor, and the soils are bad, then you can use the old folk way. Gravel is rammed into the soil from above, it is well compacted, and on top lay a layer of greasy clay 10-15 cm thick with a slope towards the catchment pit, from which water will subsequently be drained through the pipe outside the bath.

In the figure, the numbers indicate: 1 - gravel preparation; 2 - clay; 3 - drainage tray (pit); 4 - pit walls made of clay; 5 - drainage pipe.

Non-leaking floors can be insulated with expanded clay bedding. At the same time, a layer of expanded clay should be chosen of such a thickness that there is free space up to the logs laid on supports of at least 10-15 cm for ventilation of the underground space. Otherwise, the floor will quickly rot.

* * *
Now you know how to choose the section of the log and the thickness of the boards for the wooden floor in the bath, how to determine the number of columnar supports for the logs, and also equip the underground space depending on the type of bath floor.

In the following articles, we will learn how to lay logs on supports, how to make a subfloor and how to lay insulation in non-leaking floors.

Building your own steam room is a multi-stage process in which each stage is of decisive importance. And the device of the bath floor, of course, is no exception. To ensure water drainage, ventilation, heat and waterproofing, it is necessary to observe simple, but important rules installation. It should also be noted that the life of the floor will depend on the quality of the source material and the chosen technology of arrangement. If the question of how to make the floor in the bath is more relevant for you than ever, then this article will help you understand the types of bath floors and the intricacies of their installation.

To build the right floor in the bath, the first step is to decide what material it will be made of. To date, two options have been recognized as the most acceptable: wooden and concrete floors. Each has its own advantages and nuances of arrangement, which means that one cannot do without appropriate theoretical training.

Wooden floor

A classic solution that has not lost popularity for many years. Even the intensive development of the construction market is not able to negate the natural advantages. Wooden floors:

• environmentally friendly and absolutely safe for health;
• aesthetically attractive and able to demonstrate the impeccable taste of the owner of the steam room;
• do not require a lot of time to erect (compared to concrete counterparts);
• bring a cozy and comfortable atmosphere to the bath.

Varieties

When building a bath with your own hands, the floors (depending on the design) are divided into leaking and non-leaking. In the first case, flooring of single-level floorboards is made, ensuring the exit of water through the cracks, followed by its absorption into the soil under the foundation. Of the minuses of leaking floors, it should be noted the impossibility of warming, because. floorboards are removed and dried after each use.

In the second, installation is carried out with a slight inclination towards the drain hole, equipped with a water collector and a drain pipe leading to the septic tank. The leak-proof design requires the installation of a subfloor and insulation with expanded clay. This method is more expensive and time-consuming, but according to the criteria of convenience and practicality, it has no equal.

Arrangement of racks-supports

It is not difficult to lay a wooden floor for a bath with your own hands. To do this, you will need logs with a section of 18 cm or bars 15x15 cm, on which the flooring boards will be attached. Please note that the logs account for high load Therefore, they must be laid on supports made of reinforced concrete or brick. The thickness of the racks is at least 15 cm, the width of the platform under them is 7 cm more than the supports themselves.

As for the height, this indicator is identical to the height of the edge of the base (with a strip foundation). If the foundation is columnar, then wooden logs they rest on the beams of the embedded crown, and the top of the pillars-supports must coincide with these beams. Before installation, the lag supports are covered with waterproofing (roofing, roofing felt, bitumen or glassine).

Underground construction

The next step in solving the problem “how to put the floor in the bathhouse” is the construction of a subfloor. For a leaking floor on soil with a high degree of absorption, it will be enough to pour crushed stone (25 cm) into the underground. If the earth does not absorb moisture well, then the installation of a drain tank becomes mandatory. To do this, a clay castle is built on the ground at an angle to the pit.

If you decide to install the floor in a non-leaking type bath with your own hands, then the subfloor is insulated with expanded clay, leaving 15 cm to the lag (for ventilation).

Laying lag and flooring boards

Under the flowing floor, the logs are laid from any wall, under the non-leaking floor - with a slope to the side. We proceed to the flooring of the boards. For a non-leaking floor, a base floor (rough) with thermal and waterproofing is first equipped, on which tongue-and-groove boards are then attached. Please note that the groove of the boards goes inside the bath, fastening to the lags is done with capercaillie screws or nails.

Laying the floor in a leaky bath takes less time and effort. The boards are sawn so that there is a gap of 2 cm between them and the wall. It is recommended to nail the first floorboard with nails, the thickness of which is twice the thickness of the board. The following floorboards are laid in 3 cm increments.

Concrete floor

A concrete floor has many advantages, which often become decisive when choosing:

• not afraid high humidity and temperature fluctuations
• not subject to decay;
• has a long service life;
• easy to care for.

Important Points

The soil is carefully compacted, a cushion of crushed stone impregnated with bitumen (150 mm) is formed on it. In this case, crushed stone can not only withstand loads, but also evenly distribute them.

In order to get rid of one of the main disadvantages of the concrete floor (it is cold), you should think about warming. The problem can be solved in two ways: lay the base in 2 layers, placing thermal insulation between the layers, or form a heat-insulating layer on top of the concrete, on which to equip a warm wood floor.

For double laying, it is necessary to properly prepare the concrete solution. For the lower layer, the composition of the mixture should include large crushed stone fractions (35 mm in size). The thickness of this layer is 150 mm. If the bath is small, then the screed is laid immediately on the entire base, otherwise it is more convenient to divide the territory by means of wooden guides into 1000 mm strips. The screed will turn out beautiful and even.

For the top layer, it is more expedient to prepare a mixture of fine fractions. Level the floor with special care, compact it tightly. Concrete gains strength within a few days. Do not forget to take care of it - do not allow it to dry out, moisten the surface previously covered with sawdust every day.

concrete floor insulation

Regardless of the chosen insulation, it should be laid on waterproofing. For waterproofing, polyethylene film or roofing material is most often used. You can buy a liquid solution. Before applying coating waterproofing, the surface is primed.

After drying the bottom layer, you can start warming. For this, different materials are used:

• expanded clay gravel and sand;
• boiler slag;
• mineral wool slabs;
• expanded polystyrene (half pan);
• foam concrete.

Each of these components has both advantages and disadvantages. For example, expanded clay gravel is expensive, and the thickness required for the appearance of normalized thermal conductivity will be much less compared to boiler slag. Polystyrene is an excellent insulation, but it is powerless against the influence of rodents and can collapse over time. Foam concrete could win the laurels of the "most-most", but it is hygroscopic.

Use of modern technologies

The technologies of the present century offer new ways of arranging the concrete floor in the bath. Increasingly, laying tiles is used, bypassing the formation of a second layer of concrete screed. This method involves strict adherence to the sequence of construction work.

Waterproofing is laid on the thermal insulation, and a special cement screed is formed on top, the properties of which allow a coating with a thickness of only 15 mm to serve as a reliable basis for the finishing floor of ceramic tiles. Tile samples are glued to a thin layer of adhesive that firmly fixes the material. Such a floor is distinguished by a long service life, unpretentious care and excellent appearance.

Now you know what floors are and how to make a floor in the bath, which will be a thoughtful solution that complements and decorates your steam room - the best place for recreation and recreation.

Floor device in the bath: video

When building a bath, special attention must be paid to the floor.

It must be resistant to high temperatures and high humidity, so choose the flooring material very carefully.

In this article we will talk about what types of bath floors are, how to build a concrete and wooden floor with your own hands, what materials are needed for this.

Types of floors for a bath

In addition to resistance to aggressive external influences, such as heat and unnecessary importance, a whole system should be provided in the floor for rapid outflow of water.

The floor coverings in the bath vary:

• By material from which the floor is made;
• According to functional features.

The main condition when choosing a material is its resistance to high temperatures.

How to make a warm water floor on a wooden floor:

• wood flooring is the most popular among those who like to take a steam bath in a hot bath. This option is one of the cheapest, but it is short-lived and deteriorates within 10 years. In the case of an improperly equipped drain, the boards begin to rot faster and emit an unpleasant odor;
• Concrete floor is more durable, but without good insulation on top, it will be cold enough for bare feet, so you definitely need to put extra on top of it flooring;
• Tiled floor often used in showers or rest areas. This is due to the fact that it does not absorb moisture and is very easy to clean with any disinfectants.

Currently, more and more often in the construction of baths use Self-leveling floors with high performance characteristics.

Mixtures for self-leveling floors are created on new technologies and consist of a polymer base with inclusions of gypsum and cement.

Enough combine them with water and pour on the floor to even out any unevenness. They are durable, safe and beautiful in the interior.

The advantages of self-leveling floor are:

• flat and smooth surface;
• durability, operation of a self-leveling floor can reach 50 years;
• impact resistance environment , that is, it is not susceptible to high humidity and hot temperatures, as well as to chemical alkalis and acids;
• safety for human health.

When constructing a concrete floor, a prerequisite is the presence of foundation around the perimeter. A concrete floor will already be poured on it in the future. For these construction works we will need:

• concrete mixer;
• building level;
• shovel;
• buckets and wheelbarrow.

When building a wooden floor, it is necessary to put on wooden logs subfloor, insulate it with a layer of heat-insulating material, and then lay out the floor surface with processed finishing boards.

For this necessary tools will be:

• a hammer;
• plane;
• tape measure and pencil for measurements and design calculations.

We make a concrete floor in the bath with our own hands

A prerequisite for the construction of a concrete floor in a bathhouse is the presence of an established foundation for sauna stove(read about how to do it) and the output drainage system regulating the outflow of water.

Device concrete pavement is a rather complicated process, so you should follow a certain sequence of actions:

1. First of all, you need to dig a drain hole the size of 1×1 meter in the place where there will be a shower (washing room) and a steam room. After that, the dug recess is filled with broken bricks or large gravel by 15 cm. In this case, it is necessary to compact this layer so that it slopes towards the drain by about 10 – 15 %;
2. In the bath, you must also take care of sewer system . Water after use should drain into a special pit (recess), from where it will be pumped out by special drainage pumps (read how to choose it). This pit breaks out to a depth of at least 2 meters not far from the bath, and is lined on all sides with clay that does not allow water to pass through. The deeper the pit is, the faster wastewater will flow into it;
3. The final stage in the construction of the floor is preparation of concrete in a concrete mixer. Cement packages usually indicate the proportions of materials, however, the optimal ratio of sand to cement 3 to 1, that is, for 1 kg of cement, we need 3 kg of sand. Water is gradually poured into the mixer, equal in volume to the amount of sand. After preparing the solution, they pour the floor in the bath to a height 5 cm. A special leveling mixture of polymer compounds, cement and gypsum is sold on the construction markets, which makes it easier to level the concrete floor at home. It is enough to dilute the dry purchased mixture with water and pour it onto the concrete floor. It has a high fluidity and will independently smooth out almost all the irregularities in the floor. A week is enough for the mixture to dry completely.

We make a wooden floor in the bath with our own hands

The wooden flooring in the bath is built using special floorboards that are laid on the logs- special cross beams.

The construction of a wooden floor should take place in five main stages:

• Initially, it is necessary to dig a hole around the perimeter with a steam depth 40 - 60 cm and fill its edges and base with concrete mortar. This will require approx. 10 liters of solution. After it hardens, after about 3 – 4 days, it is necessary to lay a layer of crushed stone and sand with a thickness of 5 cm, well rammed;
• In the compacted layer of crushed stone and hardened concrete, special brick columns of size 25×25 cm on which the wooden logs will be held. The main requirement for the number of bricks used is that the posts protrude about a couple of centimeters above the pit;
• For the construction of a wooden leaky floor can be used uncut wooden planks with a smooth outer surface. It is necessary to cut the boards depending on the size of the bath, after which they can be laid on the logs. When laying the first board, it is necessary to leave a gap against the wall for ventilation about 3 cm. The first uncut board is nailed with the calculation of ventilation. Subsequent boards are nailed with a mandatory gap of about 5 mm. To save operational properties the tree must be treated with a double layer of drying oil or other protective material;
• During the construction of a non-leaking floor, special wooden beams must be attached to the logs 50x50 cm on which a subfloor with waterproofing will be installed. It consists of several layers that provide leveling and insulation of the floor before top coat boards. When laying the subfloor, edged and non-standard boards treated with antiseptics and drying oil can be used. On the draft boards it is necessary to put a heat-insulating layer of roofing material and expanded polystyrene (polystyrene) 10 cm thick, another layer of roofing material is placed on top;
• On top of the rough coating, grooved boards with a thickness of approximately 15-20 cm. To the lags, each board should be nailed with several nails or screwed with self-tapping screws. We will need from 3 to 5 screws or nails, their number depends on the thickness of the boards.

Important! It is not recommended to lay the boards too close to each other, as they swell and may begin to crack in high humidity. Optimal distance between dry tongue-and-groove boards when laying the floor in the bath is 3 - 5 cm, since with high humidity they can swell several times.

How to insulate the floor in the bath

Any bath should retain heat and heat from the stove for a long time. In addition, the floor in the steam room should be warm but not hot either.

Therefore, when building a bath, special attention should be paid floor insulation.

The main materials used in thermal insulation, are:

• expanded clay. It is made from natural shale, which is fired in a kiln at a maximum temperature of 1000 to 1400°. As a result, expanded clay has a number of advantages over other materials: moisture resistance, strength and long term operation;
• styrofoam or polystyrene are good heaters that do not let moisture and heat out of the room;
• perlite light enough and practically does not have thermal conductivity, so it is often used when insulating the floor in the bath. This material is a volcanic rock, very light and crumbly. At the same time, perlite does not burn and is resistant to aggressive environmental factors;
• glass wool used for concrete floor insulation. Its fibers can absorb moisture, thereby reducing their thermal insulation properties.

Consider the main options insulation bathroom floors:

• Insulation with perlite. To prepare a heat-insulating mixture, it is necessary to mix perlite and water in a ratio of 2 to 1. It is necessary to stir the solution until a film of water begins to appear on the surface of the mixture. This is an indicator of the readiness of the solution. After preparing the solution with spades, a mixture of perlite is laid on the floor covering with a thin layer, leveled and left to dry for a week. After the thermal insulation layer has completely dried, the floor is again poured with concrete mortar to a height of 5 cm;
• Foam insulation the most popular option due to its low cost and ease of use. Foam boards are lightweight and do not rot. Styrofoam is laid out on the floor as a layer between concrete pours in two rows, the gaps between the plates are filled with mounting foam or scraps of foam material. Top foam boards put reinforcing mesh, which is poured with concrete;
• Warming with expanded clay. Depending on what kind of load the floor covering will experience during operation, the required amount of expanded clay depends. Experts recommend filling expanded clay with a layer of at least 10 cm.

Before filling the heat-insulating layer on concrete or on a rough wooden floor, it is necessary to put special beacons on which the floor will be leveled.

The final stage in is the final pouring of the concrete solution to a height 5 cm.

Advice! When buying expanded clay, you should take several types of expanded clay with different sizes of granules at once. This is necessary for better fastening them together.

How to treat the floor in the bath from decay

Most often, when building a floor in a bath, they are used conifers trees.

This wood contains resin, protecting the floor from rapid decay and the occurrence of an unpleasant odor.

However, in order to extend their service life, it is advisable to monitor the condition of the boards and process antibacterial, antifungal means.

Construction stores sell a large number of specialized impregnation for a bath with which it is necessary to regularly process the floor.

Before using the bath, it is necessary to treat the floor covering with antibacterial and moisture-resistant materials several times a day for a week so that they are well absorbed into the wooden boards.

Thus, regardless of what type of floor you have chosen for the bath, a necessary condition for its construction will be thermal insulation and waterproofing. Then the bath will serve you long years bringing joy and giving strength.

A step-by-step guide to building a floor in a bath, you can see in this video.