Lilac is a shrub native to the Olive family. Today, there are more than a dozen of its varieties, most common in South-Eastern Europe. Varieties of lilacs differ in the color of the flowers and are different in the rules of care. Very popular in Russia: people grow it on their plots, gardens and adjoining territories. Planting a lilac is a simple procedure. The main rule is properly prepared soil, fed with special fertilizers.
Description of the bush
Lilac has whole opposite leaves that fall in winter. Flowers pink, purple or white. They are located in panicles, ending branches. Cup small size bell shaped with 4 teeth. Corolla cylindrical shape, which has a four-part bend. The lilac has two stamens that are well attached to the tube. Ovary single with double stigma.
Today, one of the common types of lilac that is used for planting is the common lilac. Such a shrub has a luxurious look, captivates not only beautiful flowers but also a pleasant smell. Lilac is easy to plant, unpretentious in care, takes root well in open ground.
Today, more than 10 varieties of lilac are known.
Place to land
The best place for planting lilacs will be moist soil with neutral acidity. Lilac bushes love sunlight, so most of the time it should be under the sun.
Such a plant does not grow in swampy areas; a lot of water provokes rotting of the root system. If there is no other place to plant, then lilacs are recommended to be planted on hills that are well lit by the sun. In the shade, the plant does not bloom well.
When to plant
Experienced summer residents recommend planting lilac bushes in late summer and early autumn. Thus, the seedlings will take root well and are likely to endure the winter well. The time for landing is chosen in the morning or evening. It is not recommended to plant a bush in scorching sun cloudy weather is the best time. In order to plant lilac, prepare the soil in advance. 
Lilac preparation for planting
To properly plant a lilac, you need to prepare in advance. 2-3 weeks before planting, dig deep holes - about 40 cm in diameter, 30-45 cm deep. In addition, it is important to properly prepare the soil for planting. Each pit is filled with the top layer of fertile soil, to which it is necessary to add rotted, peat and humus. Next, about 20 kg of organic top dressing is applied. If the soil is acidic, add 2 kg of lime. Sandy soils contain little magnesium, so calcareous tufa is introduced into such soil in the form of dolomite flour. Mineral fertilizers are also added to each well:
- - 1 kg;
- phosphate rock - 0.3 kg;
- potassium sulfate - 100 g;
- wood ash - 800 g.
After mixing all the fertilizers, it is necessary to apply them to the soil so that the main part gets to the very bottom of the pit.
Lilac planting
By planting a lilac in the country, you can not only admire the enchanting beauty in your area, but also enjoy the pleasant aroma of its flowers. Landing can be done in spring or closer to autumn. Experienced summer residents recommend planting bushes in the fall.
Before proceeding with the planting process, it is necessary to inspect the root system for damage. If the root of the plant is damaged, it is cut with garden shears. After pruning, the root must be dipped in a mash of clay and manure.
If the holes are not prepared before planting the lilacs, then they are filled to the middle and compacted well. Next, a small hill is made from the ground where the root of the plant is placed. It is important to direct the root system to different sides. To avoid deepening of the bush after the soil has settled, the neck of the root is placed 5 cm above ground level. After sprinkling the root with 5 cm of a layer of fertilized soil, the pit is covered with the rest of the earth, gently trampling underfoot. Compaction should be done with care so as not to damage the root of the plant. Around the bush, a roller is made of earth 10-20 cm high, forming a hole for good watering. One bush is 20 liters of water. After the moisture is absorbed, a layer of dry soil is laid down and mulching with peat is carried out - 5 cm. Lilacs should be planted in the soil in accordance with all the rules, otherwise there will be no abundant flowering.
How to care
Lilac - the plant is not whimsical, it does not require special rules for care.
It is recommended to plant bushes in early spring or autumn. The best time to plant is in September. The only important rule in caring for a plant is regular watering. This is especially true for young bushes. Mature plants are watered during the dry season.
Lilac pruning
In the spring, the bush requires pruning of dried branches, and those branches that grow inside the plant. Panicles that have already faded are also cut off, but very carefully, without damaging the shoots - soon new flowers will appear on them. Such bushes do not require special conditions of detention, but regular watering and pruning are important rules.
If you cut lilacs in autumn, then on next year it may not bloom.
By mistake, you can cut off shoots with formed buds, which can provoke poor flowering or none at all.
Bush formation
To properly form a bush, you need to create a foundation. The lilac bush is formed from 3-4 stem branches. In the first year, branches that grow crooked must be removed.
The following year, only those shoots that grow inward are pruned. Thus, the crown of the plant without voids evenly overgrows. After this is done, cutting the lilac is not recommended.
top dressing
The plant needs feeding, but not all. It is worth being careful with nitrogen and, otherwise the plant will not bloom and will not tolerate winter frosts well.
The best fertilizer for lilacs will be the introduction of complex dressings in the spring and potassium-phosphate fertilizers after flowering. Loosening the soil is done with care, trying not to damage the root of the plant.
reproduction
Lilac bushes can be propagated in several ways:
- seeds;
- cuttings;
- root growth;
- vaccination.
Reproduction by seeds
Wild lilac reproduces by seed. It is recommended to sow them in autumn or spring. Before planting, the seed undergoes a two-month hardening at a temperature of 2 to 5 degrees. Such lilacs are planted in spring in March in boxes with well-steamed soil. The first shoots appear already on the 10th day. When the leaves are formed, the plants are transplanted into seedling boxes. Later, the seedlings dive. After picking, the bushes are planted in May - early June.
Before planting seeds, it is necessary to carry out the hardening procedure.
Reproduction by cuttings
Lilacs of other varieties are propagated by cuttings closer to spring; grafting and branching methods are also used. Cuttings are carried out at the beginning of flowering. Such a cutting should have one knot and two buds. A cut is made at the bottom, having previously retreated 1 cm from the kidney, lower leaves are removed.
Planting material can be treated with a growth stimulant. The cutting is planted to a depth of 1 cm.
Reproduction by root shoots
The first growth should be separated in early summer. Before proceeding with reproduction in this way, the soil should be well moistened. It is better to do the procedure on a cloudy day in order to avoid drying out the roots. The length of such roots should be no more than 5 cm. Wet peat or sand is placed on the bottom of a special box for picking. Seedlings are planted in boxes and sprayed from a spray bottle. Next, the boxes are sent to a cool place.
Graft
The graft is done with a dormant bud or cuttings. You can bud the plant in the summer with a dormant bud, in the spring - which has just begun to wake up. When budding in the spring, the cuttings should be prepared in February and stored in the cold in small bundles wrapped in newspaper. The survival rate of such cuttings is 80%. They will endure the winter well, will not be susceptible to diseases.
The stock begins to be prepared from mid-summer. To do this, lateral high branches up to 15 cm are cut off from the plant and shoots are removed.
It is worth taking into account: it is not recommended to cut the lilac before budding, as the cut places may not have time to heal.
The thickness of the root neck of the stock should vary from 0.5 to 1.5 cm. The bark of the plant should be well separated from the trunk. Therefore, a week before grafting a bush, it must be well watered.
On the day on which the budding is planned, the stock is unraveled, and the place where the branch will be grafted is wiped with a wet cloth. Cuttings are prepared for budding as they mature. good thickness one cutting 3-5 mm, length about 30 cm.
Such cuttings are stored in the cold for 10 days with wet moss or sawdust.
From a mature shoot, you can fully get from 10 to 15 buds. Best time for budding - mid-July.
Fight against diseases and insects
Like any plant, lilac is susceptible to disease. One of the most dangerous for this plant are lilac moth and bacterial necrosis.
Lilac moth
The disease affects the green part of the bush - the leaves. At the beginning of the disease, they become covered with brown spots, and then curl and dry. Such a bush is very similar to a burnt one. Unfortunately, the mining moth completely kills the plant, and the next year it no longer blooms.
Fighting moths is not difficult at all. To do this, it is recommended to carry out preventive digging of the soil around the bush. Cut and burn damaged shoots in time.
Bacterial necrosis
Most common in August. The disease is transmitted through water, poor quality planting material or by insect pests. Bacterial necrosis overwinters in the tissues of diseased branches, fallen leaves. Lilac affected by this disease has gray leaves and brown shoots. At the beginning of the disease, the green part of the plant and up the shoots are affected, then the disease goes down.
To protect lilacs from such a disease, it is important to carry out pest prevention in a timely manner. Also to preventive measures include the burning of fallen leaves and diseased branches of the bush. If the bush is completely affected, it is recommended to dig it up and burn it, otherwise the disease will affect everything around.
Bacterial necrosis is a dangerous disease for lilacs. Do not neglect preventive measures.
Lilac transplant
Not many people know that a plant like lilac requires a transplant. During the period of active growth, the bush takes from the soil all the elements it needs. The process of absorption of substances takes place quite actively, even regardless of whether fertilizers were applied during planting.
Before the transplant process, a pit is prepared. Preparation is carried out according to the same principle as for planting - the soil is fertilized with mineral top dressing.
Before transplanting, the bush is inspected for the presence of dry branches that must be removed. After inspection, the bush is placed in a deep hole.
The transplant site should be fertilized in advance with fertilizers and well lit by the sun.
It is worth remembering: the root of the plant must be branched in different directions.
Transplanting a lilac bush promotes active growth and abundant flowering bush.
Lilac is a plant that is unpretentious in care, but requires important rules in content. Proper Care behind the plant - will provide the gardener with beautiful bushes in an area with abundant flowering.
Among all spring flowers, lilac stands out - a lush ornamental shrub that even novice gardeners can grow. Planting lilacs in open ground is not difficult, and the culture itself does not need special care, so this ornamental shrub is grown in a variety of climatic and soil conditions, and is also used for landscaping cities.
If you want to decorate your site with a lush fragrant lilac bush, we recommend that you read this article. In it you will find many useful tips on planting, caring for and growing lilacs in the open field, as well as how to propagate the shrub.
Where to plant lilac
First of all, you need to choose the right place for landing. Lilac belongs to unpretentious crops, but it does not tolerate excess moisture. Under such conditions, the roots begin to rot, and even an adult shrub may die. That is why landing in swampy lowlands or in areas that are regularly flooded with water is not recommended. In addition, the shrub is undesirable to plant in the shade. big trees or at close range from buildings. Such a neighborhood will not only create an unwanted shadow, but also increase soil moisture.
It is also recommended to choose areas with slightly acidic or neutral soils. They contain a sufficient amount of humus for the development of seedlings. When choosing a landing site, be guided not only by the quality of the soil and its moisture content, but also by the illumination of the site. Lilac loves sunlight, but does not tolerate drafts well, so it should be planted in sunny, but protected from strong wind places.
How to choose planting material
An equally important role is played by the choice of the seedling itself. When buying, you should pay attention to the root system: it should be strong and branched, and its diameter should be about 30 cm.
Note: It is better to buy planting material in specialized stores, and not from hand. So you will be sure of the quality and health of the seedlings.
At the time of purchase, you can conduct a small check on the viability of the plant. You need to choose a thin small root and bend it. If it breaks and darkens, then the root is dry, and such a bush will not take root.
Figure 1. Examples of quality planting material with a closed root system You can also check the quality of a seedling by the state of its bark. If you lightly scratch it with your finger, a green mark should remain. A brown or gray surface indicates that the seedling is sick and should not be bought.
Healthy and strong trees reach a height of half a meter or more, and also have from 3 to 6 skeletal branches (Figure 1).
When to plant lilac
Many mistakenly believe that the best time to plant any horticultural crops, including lilacs - this is spring. In fact, this ornamental shrub is best planted in the ground in late summer or early autumn. In such conditions, the tree will have time to take root and grow stronger before the onset of cold weather.
But, if you bought a seedling with an open root system in the spring, and the buds have not yet blossomed on it, you can plant it at this time. The main thing is to prevent the awakening of the kidneys, since planting during such a period can greatly weaken the shrub and even lead to its death.
Also, planting can be carried out in mid-July, when the shrub has already faded and is preparing for a dormant period. But the best time is September, and it is advisable to carry out the procedure before the middle of the month, when the daytime temperature is quite high and there is no danger of night frosts.
Planting in autumn
In autumn, it is advisable to complete planting before mid-September, so that the seedlings have time to take root before the onset of cold weather. During this period, it is still quite warm and there are no night frosts, so the risk of freezing young plants is almost minimal.
Figure 2. Stages autumn planting shrub The landing technology includes several stages. First, you need to clear the area of weeds and roots of other plants. Secondly, it is necessary to prepare pits with vertical walls up to 50 cm deep.
Note: If you plan to plant several bushes, it is better to place them at a distance of 2-3 meters from each other so that the roots can develop normally.
A drainage layer is laid at the bottom of the pit and filled with fertile soil, consisting of compost or rotted manure (about 20 kg) per plant, 20 grams of superphosphate and a glass of wood ash. The resulting mixture must be poured into a mound, in the center of which a seedling is installed and its roots are straightened. It is necessary to deepen the plant into the soil in such a way that its root collar is a few centimeters above the surface. Next, you need to water the ground well, and when the water is absorbed, mulch with any organic material (Figure 2).
Planting in the spring in the ground
Spring is considered not the best time for this procedure, since during this period it is easy to miss the right moment for landing. It is important that the buds on the seedling do not wake up before planting, but if this has already happened, the procedure is postponed until the end of summer.
Note: It is because of the chance to miss the right time for planting that it is recommended to buy seedlings with a closed root system, as they can be successfully stored for several months.
Regardless of the time, you need to properly prepare the soil: free the site from weeds, dig it up and prepare a nutrient substrate from humus, superphosphate and wood ash.
It is also necessary to inspect the seedlings themselves and remove all damaged and dry parts of the roots. In addition, it is advisable to place the roots in a solution of a root-forming preparation for several hours in order to stimulate the acclimatization of the plant in a new place.
It is best to choose a cloudy day or evening time for planting seedlings. After preparing the planting material, they proceed directly to garden work.
The classic lilac planting scheme looks like this:
- Dig a hole measuring 50 * 50 cm.
- The nutrient soil from the hole is mixed with compost or humus, superphosphate and wood ash. In total, you will need about 20 kg of organic matter, 20 grams of mineral fertilizer and 300 grams of ash per plant. But, if the soil in the area is acidic, the amount of ash must be doubled.
- A layer of broken brick is laid at the bottom of the hole, which will act as a drainage. A nutrient substrate is poured from above, forming a small mound out of it.
- A prepared seedling is placed on the mound, its root system is straightened and it is deepened into the ground so that the root neck protrudes 3-4 cm above the soil surface.
- The pit is covered with soil mixture, lightly tamped and watered abundantly.
It is necessary to wait until the water is completely absorbed into the soil and mulch the bed. This will keep optimal humidity soil and will not allow weeds to grow, which significantly slow down the growth of young shrubs.
Step-by-step landing instructions are given in the video.
Distance between lilacs when landing
This ornamental shrub provides a wide scope for imagination when decorating a garden. It can be planted both singly and in groups, but if you want to form strong and beautiful shrubs, it is better to keep a distance of 2-3 meters between individual seedlings (Figure 3).
Figure 3. Distance between lilac bushes when planting In some cases, lilacs are even used to create hedges, but in this case, the plants will need more thorough feeding. If you have the opportunity to maintain the optimal distance between plants, you will not have to fertilize the lilacs especially actively, as it will receive all the necessary nutrients from the soil.
Bouquet planting
This method of placing shrubs is rarely practiced. The fact is that when planting in bouquets, seedlings are located very close to each other, sometimes in the same hole. This allows you to create lush plantings, but it will be difficult to care for adult bushes, especially for beginner gardeners.
Figure 4. Bouquet placement of shrubs In addition, when bouquet placement, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the varieties. Typically, for this purpose, undersized varieties(Figure 4). Tall ones cannot be planted in this way, especially in combination with undersized species.
Planting lilacs with a closed root system
Seedlings with a closed root system have one important advantage over conventional planting material. Since these plants are sold in special pots, they can be planted at almost any time of the year: from early spring to autumn.
Most varieties are resistant to drought and cold, but they do not tolerate stagnant moisture at the roots. Therefore, you should carefully choose a landing site. It should be well lit, but at the same time closed from cold wind and drafts. In addition, it is better to choose areas with loose fertile soil.
Note: If the soil on your site does not meet these requirements, you need to dig holes, remove the soil and replace it with a special fertile soil mixture.
The depth and diameter of the landing pit should be approximately 50 cm. It is important that the walls of the hole are vertical. It is advisable to place individual plants at a distance of 2 meters from each other so that in the process of growth they can develop a strong root system.
The bottom of the hole is filled with a nutrient soil mixture, forming a small mound out of it. A seedling is vertically placed in its center, its roots are straightened and sprinkled with the remaining earth. At the same time, it is important that the root collar protrudes several centimeters above the soil surface. After that, the ground around the plant must be carefully tamped, watered, and after absorbing moisture, mulched with peat or sawdust to prevent evaporation of moisture and the growth of weeds.
How and what to feed the lilac
Despite the fact that lilac is very demanding on soil moisture and fertility, it does not require special care. In summer, the earth is watered as it dries up, spending up to 30 liters of liquid per bush, and several loosening of the soil is carried out with the removal of weeds.
Top dressing depends on the age of the plant. Young specimens during the first two or three years are fed only with a small amount of nitrogen fertilizers, and from the second year they begin to apply urea or ammonium nitrate(50 grams for each bush).
Phosphorus and potash fertilizers should be applied every 2-3 years. They can simply be scattered on the surface of the soil, and then carry out abundant watering. Organic top dressings are also considered effective, for example, slurry (1 part cow manure to 5 parts water).
Rules for pruning lilacs, do I need to trim it
This ornamental shrub needs pruning just like other plants in the garden. But this process has its own peculiarities. For example, bushes under two years old are not pruned at all, since they have not yet formed all the skeletal branches. Crown formation begins only from the third year, and this process takes several years (Figure 5).
Figure 5. Shaping and rejuvenating shrub pruning Pruning is best done in early spring, before the start of sap flow and awakening of the kidneys. To do this, select 5-7 strong and beautiful branches located on equal distance from each other. The remaining shoots and root shoots are removed. Next spring, cut off half of the flowering branches. At the same time, the remaining shoots are also shortened, leaving no more than 8 buds on them. This will help form a lush and strong shrub.
Note: Simultaneously with the formative pruning, sanitary pruning is carried out, removing all dry or damaged branches, as well as shoots with signs of disease.
Lilac can be formed not only in the form of a shrub, but also a small tree. To do this, you need to choose a seedling with a vertical straight trunk and, after planting, slightly shorten it (to the height of the stem). As the lateral branches grow, skeletal shoots are formed, leaving 5-6 of the strongest specimens, extending to the sides. At the same time, the crown is cleared of shoots growing inward and root shoots. Gradually, the skeletal branches will get stronger, and further pruning will include only sanitary measures and regular thinning of the crown.
Lilac reproduction
There are several ways to replenish the number of plants in the garden with new planting material. To do this, use the methods of cuttings, grafting, as well as growing from seeds and cuttings.
Each method has its own characteristics, so let's take a closer look. key points each of them.
seeds
Propagation by seeds is used in specialized nurseries to obtain planting material of a certain variety. Some wild varieties are grown in the same way.
After collecting the seeds, they are stratified for two months, wrapped in a damp cloth and placed in the refrigerator. Sowing is carried out in spring or autumn, and after the appearance of several true leaves, seedlings dive into separate containers.
It is difficult to grow a full-fledged seedling from seeds, as this process takes too much time. therefore, at home, it is better to use cuttings or propagation by branches and grafting.
cuttings
Despite the fact that the cutting method is considered one of the best, there are still certain difficulties during its implementation. The main difficulty is that lilac cuttings take root for a long time, so they need to be harvested at the very active period shrub life - during flowering or immediately after its completion (Figure 6).
Figure 6. Stages of culture cuttings In addition, you need to choose the right raw material. To do this, choose young non-lignified shoots located inside the crown. They should have 2-3 internodes or nodes, and it is best to cut the branches in the morning.
The bottom cut of the cutting should be oblique, and the top cut straight. The lower end is freed from leaves and dipped in a solution of a root-forming preparation for 16 hours. After that, the planting material is placed in a container with peat or sandy soil at such a distance that their leaves do not touch. Next, you need to spray the sprouts with water and cover with a jar. The container must be transferred to the shade and periodically inspected, preventing the soil from drying out.
The first roots will appear in about 2-3 months. From this point on, you need to regularly remove the shelter for ventilation. Planting can be carried out in the middle of summer, if the shoots have managed to form a normal root system. But, if this happened in the fall, cuttings should be left until spring.
You will find useful tips on cutting shrubs in the video.
Root growth
Reproduction by root shoots (branches) is also considered effective method obtaining high-quality planting material. To do this, in the spring you need to choose a young shoot that has not yet had time to lignify, and drag it copper wire at the base and at a distance of 80 cm.
Note: When pulling the shoot, it is important not to damage its bark, since in this case the layers may not take root.
Next, the prepared branch is placed in a shallow groove (no more than 2 cm), and leave the top on the surface. To prevent the shoot from being pushed to the surface, it must be fixed with studs. During the summer, the cuttings are regularly watered and weeds are removed around it (Figure 7).
Figure 7. Features of reproduction by root layers When the shoots formed on the branch reach a height of 15 cm, hilling is carried out to about half the height of the shoots. As the branches grow, they fill up the ground, and with the onset of cold weather, the layers are separated from the mother bush and cut into several parts so that each of them has a part of the roots. After that, they can be transplanted to permanent place, but for the winter it is necessary to equip a shelter from needles.
Inoculation
Growing new planting material by grafting is a rather complicated process for which a gardener needs to have certain skills. But you can immediately get a large number of seedlings of the same height.
Figure 8. Features of grafting lilac on a stock For grafting, cuttings or budding are used, and privet or a Hungarian shrub variety is used as a stock. To do this, use the method of budding with a sleeping or awakening kidney (summer or spring). In the second half of June, they begin to prepare the stock: they remove all root shoots and shorten the side shoots so that their height does not exceed 15 cm (Figure 8).
Note: Pruning immediately before budding cannot be carried out, since the wound will not have time to heal and the seedling will be too weak.
Before the start of vaccination, abundant watering is carried out for 5-6 days, and before the procedure, the place where the kidney is attached is thoroughly wiped with a damp, clean cloth. On the rootstock at a level of 3-5 cm from the ground level, a T-shaped incision up to 3 cm long is made, the bark is carefully lifted and a kidney or cutting is inserted into the hole formed. After that, the branch must be carefully rewound with electrical tape or film for fixation.
When is the best time to plant lilacs: in spring or autumn
There are many opinions regarding best timing for planting lilacs. In fact, landing can be carried out from spring to autumn, but certain rules must be followed.
Firstly, if you are planning a spring planting, it must be completed before the start of sap flow and awakening of the kidneys.
Secondly, at summer planting preference should be given to mid-July. At this time, the bushes begin to prepare for a dormant period and tolerate the transplant normally.
If you chose autumn as the planting period, it is carried out until mid-September. During this period, it is still warm enough and there are no night frosts, so the seedlings will have time to take root before the onset of cold weather.
One of the favorite plants of many Russian gardeners. With the onset of spring, lilac pleases the eye with large racemose or paniculate inflorescences, spreading around a strong, nice smell.
And the bush itself is very juicy green, retaining its foliage until the very cold. Lilac leaves always reminded me of a big drop. The timing of flowering of this shrub depends on the species. I have an ordinary lilac growing, and the beginning of its flowering occurs at the end of May - the beginning of June.
There are about 30 species of this flowering shrub, which belongs to the olive family. The name lilac comes from Greek from the word "pipe". Perhaps this is due to the shape of the flower. The lilac bush has many trunks, the bush can be up to 8 m high, with beautiful pruning it can look like decorative tree with a dense crown and fragrant, dense inflorescences.
Lilac planting
Soils and site selection for lilacs
Lilac is very easy to plant, it does not require any additional effort.
- The soil is suitable neutral. If the soil, then it must be treated with lime or dolomite flour. This must be done every 3 years.
- must pass at a depth of at least 1.5 m, as for most plants and shrubs.
- It is advisable to choose for lilac sunny place flat or with a slight slope. However, the plant also tolerates partial shade well, but it blooms incomparably more abundantly in the sun. If the place is blown by cold winds, then it makes sense to choose a place with less cold air currents.
- Lilac is good because in winter it no need to hide because it is very hardy. The unpretentiousness of the lilac is also evidenced by the fact that it can grow on the slopes of the mountains, where the soil is heavy and strong winds blow.
- Waterlogged and damp for lilacs are contraindicated, clay soil is also not recommended for it.
When to plant lilac
It is best to plant lilacs in mid-latitudes in late August - early September. Before the cold weather, there is still time for the plant to take root, and the lilac is already in this period of time in a state of calm from flowering and vegetation.
Foliage can serve as an indicator of the timeliness of planting. If the leaves crumble, you are late with the planting. If you nevertheless planted lilacs late and a cold snap is expected soon, you need a trunk circle. This can be done with sawdust, peat, leaves. This will save you from the rapid freezing of the soil. With the onset of spring, the mulch is removed so as not to delay the thawing of the earth.
If you have already dug up lilacs, but frosts have come, then dig a lilac in an inclined state like fruit seedlings and leave in this state until spring. In this case, prepare pits for spring planting immediately in the fall, because what earlier in the spring you plant a lilac, the faster it will take root. A prerequisite is what you need to land before swelling of the kidneys Otherwise, the risk of plant death is high.
Landing in the pits
Usually, lilac seedlings are planted in the ground to a depth at which the root neck will be at the level of the soil. An exception are varieties grafted on common lilac. In this case, the root collar should be 2-3 cm above ground level to reduce or prevent the lilac growth that appears from the stem.Pits at good fertile land make 50x50 cm. Directly when planting they prepare soil mix by adding to it organic fertilizers and wood ash. For better survival, you can plant lilacs in the evening when it is cooler.
Buy lilac seedlings with, in this case there will be no problems with planting and care. Seedlings with an open root system are not yet a sentence, but they take root worse and require more care.
Lilac Care
Lilac - very unpretentious plant. General recommendations care is the same as for most flowering shrubs.
Watering
After planting, water thoroughly and mulch the soil, then water as the soil dries. Lilac grows well and blooms with sufficient moisture.In May-June, water more abundantly, because the plant begins to bloom and requires more moisture. But you can't overflow.
From mid-July, lilacs are no longer watered so as not to provoke the awakening of the kidneys.
Fertilizers and dressings for lilacs
If upon landing landing pit you have made a sufficient amount, then the plant does not need to fertilize the soil for about 3 years.Your further feeding will consist in making (manure, bird droppings, compost slurry) and (phosphorus and potassium in August every 2-3 years, ammonium nitrate - when it snows).
When the plant is gaining strength and actively growing, you can sprinkle mineral fertilizers on the foliage.
Lilac pruning
- Faded brushes are needed, this is due to the fact that flower buds are formed on summer shoots. If you cut off faded inflorescences in the fall, then next spring lilac won't bloom.
- If the lilac requires sanitary pruning, then it does not matter what time of the year it is carried out, but it is better in the spring.
- To renew old branches to new ones in adult lilacs, do it gradually, cutting out 1-2 old branches per year in spring.
- Many gardeners do cultural pruning of lilacs. To do this, leave the main 6 or more branches at some distance from each other to give the bush a sprawling appearance, and cut off all the rest, the same ones that are directed inside the bush are cut out completely. This gives shape and a beautiful appearance when flowering. It is advisable to carry out such pruning every year in the spring, before the buds swell.
Lilac reproduction
Varietal garden lilac reproduces by layering,.When propagated by layering by autumn, you will already have a good one-year-old seedling ready for transplanting. To do this, make horizontal furrows near the lilac, bend the branches to the ground and secure. And layering will develop from the shoot buds. At the same time, the mother plant will retain all its decorative properties. Personally, this method seems to me less laborious than green cuttings. But not all types of lilacs breed like that.
If you still want to propagate by cuttings, then take semi-woody, well-developed shoots in summer (June - early July), take cuttings middle part shoots.
Rootstocks can be grown from seeds and grafted on them. Seed collection is in October.
You can sow in the fall, after you pour them out of the boxes and dry them. To do this, prepare a bed for seeds in advance, sow with the first snow in a dead bed, burying it by 1.5 cm. In the spring, you can dive and grow ready-made seedlings.
You can plant seeds in the spring, but this will require stratification (long-term keeping of seeds at low temperature). Somewhere in mid-March, the seeds are sown in boxes with steamed earth. Seed germination is different for different types of lilac, for ordinary lilac, seeds will sprout on the 12-15th day, and, for example, for the Amur lilac in 2-3 months. After the formation of 4 leaves on the seedling, the seedlings dive at a distance of 4 cm from each other.
In May, seedlings are planted in a permanent place in the garden. For seedlings, autumn planting is less preferable, due to their freezing in winter.
For vaccination, you can take the stock of common lilac, privet or Hungarian lilac. An oblique cut is made at the rootstock, and a cut is also made on the selected cutting (oblique cut at an angle of 45 °). Attach the scion tightly to the stock with a cut and tie with ropes. This method is called, it is the simplest among the vaccination methods. Lilac is also perfectly grafted onto privet.
Types and varieties of lilac
Today in culture there are many species of not only natural, but also hybrid origin. Therefore, the number of lilac species is growing rapidly.Common lilac
While in Russian gardens The common lilac (Syringa vulgaris) is the most common, with about 500 different varieties. The flowers are very fragrant, the colors are all shades lilac, White color. Generates a large number of shoots, after planting it blooms for 4 years.
The only lilac variety with yellow flowers. yellow tint they have only at the beginning of flowering, towards the end it becomes closer to white.
Terry lilac
Many types of lilacs have varieties with double flowers. Terry flowers are “double”: from the first tube with four petals, another one grows the same. If there are fewer petals in the second tube, the lilac is called semi-double.- Lilac terry varieties Taras Bulba
- Terry lilac varieties Monique Lemoine
Lilac Hungarian
Very resistant to any adverse conditions lilac, she is not afraid of either drought, or waterlogging, or frost. Blooms a couple of weeks later than regular lilacs. Flowers on long stems, tubules, sharp petals, longline brushes of inflorescences, up to 30 cm long.
Amur lilac
Amur lilac bushes reach 10 m in height. The leaves do not differ from ordinary lilacs, the flowers are small, dense, with a shade from white to cream, a very strong aroma. It is resistant to temperature changes in a very wide range, but does not like poor soils. It blooms late, at the end of July, for about 2 weeks.
Lilac hybrid
There are many types of hybrid lilacs formed during artificial or natural hybridization of different natural species lilacs ("hybrid races"). These include hyacinth, Persian, multi-leaved and other types of lilac. Many hybrids are superior in quality to their parents: they grow faster, do not give root shoots, and bloom earlier.- Persian lilac
You can learn about other types and varieties of lilacs from articles and.
1. Lilac is one of the most beautiful shrubs.
You probably met such a shrub in city parks, or in personal plots. Looks impressive, doesn't it?
Lilacs take pruning very well, so this shrub can make a wonderful hedge.
From this wonderful, complete interesting messages articles, you will learn how to plant lilac and care for it in the open field.
The best time to plant a plant with an open root system is early autumn. It is best to finish planting this no later than September. On a seedling that is meant to be planted in the fall, the leaves should be green because these leaves retain their colorful color until the onset of frost.
But if the seedling did not have leaves, then this, unfortunately, means that the planting dates, alas, have passed. You ask: “What to do with this seedling,
don't throw it away?" - The answer is here! This seedling must be placed in the trench until spring, the same is done with seedlings of fertile trees.
The timing of planting lilacs in the spring is very short. You must dig up that very cherished seedling and plant it on
permanent place of residence. This must be done before the buds open.
(Advice: it is better to dig a hole in advance - in the fall, so as not to peck the frozen soil at the right time).
A lilac seedling can be planted in the summer, but on one condition: if you purchase a seedling in a container.
Most Common Mistakes
2. Here are the most common mistakes people make when planting lilacs:
- - Planting a seedling at the wrong time.
- - Planting a seedling in unsuitable soil.
- - Planting a seedling in a place that is too shaded.
- - Planting a seedling in a place prone to periodic flooding.
What if you have already planted lilacs in a dark place? Do not despair. Lilac is quite unpretentious. The plant will not die and will even bloom. The truth is not
magnificently. In the same way, the lilac will not die if it is planted in a poor nutrients soil. Nevertheless, if you want the lilac to delight you with lush flowering every year, you should carefully select a place and soil for it, believe me, this will pay off handsomely.
How to plant a lilac
3. How to plant a lilac:
- First you need to dig a hole.
- The grafted lilac should be planted so that the grafting site is flush with the edge of the hole.
- The hole is covered with soil, the soil is lightly compacted.
- Water the seedling thoroughly.
All types of lilacs are planted according to this principle.
Lilac Care
4.
Lilac can easily survive a harsh winter. Only in young plants in the year of planting we recommend to surround the trunk circles
fallen leaves. After planting, the plant needs intensive watering until the plant takes root and begins to grow.
After that, the plant is watered as needed. In the early years, until the shrub began to grow, it is better not to use fertilizers.
Young bushes need periodic loosening of the soil. Lilac bushes begin to grow in the third year. From now on you can start
to feeding. In the spring, before the start of the flowering period, you need
loosen the soil several times and feed with mineral fertilizers. BE CAREFUL: you need to loosen the soil carefully and shallowly!
Loosening usually stops along with watering, i.e. in August. When using nitrogen fertilizers, be careful, an overabundance of such
fertilizers can harm the plant. Unlike nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium minerals can bring nothing but benefits.
Phosphorus fertilizers are applied in early October in the amount of 40 grams per young and 60 grams per adult bush. This essential element influences
size and quality of flowers. Potassium makes the plant hardy. Potassium is added along with phosphorus (about 3 tablespoons per large bush).
Lilac loves top dressing with wood ash (this substance alkalizes the soil). Ash needs to be poured cold water(about 1 cup per 10 liters).
Then they insist for two days and pour two buckets of this infusion onto each bush. But first you need to water the roots with clean water.
Ash bushes are fed immediately after flowering and in October. Lilac is grown as a bush, with branches extending from the ground.
Hedge seedlings are planted a meter apart. Unfortunately, such a hedge will not grow, but it will look great!
In the second year, you will notice that the branches are already intertwined with each other, it looks like a fishing net.
After some time, neither a person nor a large animal will be able to crawl through these intertwining bushes. Lilac fast growing plant
so... After three years, you can start cutting it. High hedges need to be cut after flowering, and low hedges any time you wish.
PROMPT:
if you set yourself the task of getting a harmoniously developed bush, then when choosing a place for planting a seedling, you need to make sure that neighboring friends - plants are not closer than 1.2 - 2 meters from it.
By following these simple rules for planting lilacs and caring for them outdoors, you can grow them on your own. personal plot this is a great plant.
Lilac is flowering shrub with lush clusters of delicate flowers, pleasing no less delicate and delicate aroma. This plant lends itself well to pruning, which allows you to decorate the site and single decorative forms, and groups, and even live fences.
Where to plant lilac
Better conditions for lilac are as follows: flat place; the soil is moist, with good drainage and acidity close to neutral; passage ground water at least one and a half meters from the surface; sun exposure most of the day; shelter from drafts. Lilac does not grow in swampy or often flooded areas. In these cases, if there is no other possibility, it is planted on the hills, poured following the example of an alpine hill.
Acidic soil must be treated with lime or dolomite flour before planting. Lilac tolerates partial shade, and in the shade it weakens, growth and development slows down, blooms poorly and not plentifully. But in a lighted place it is a bright shrub with lush greenery, strong shoots and many inflorescences.
In areas open to the wind, especially in cold season, lilac buds freeze, which affects flowering. Choose a warm sunny place for planting, sheltered from the wind, for example, among perennial tall plants.
When and how to plant lilac
Lilacs take root well, all she needs is compliance with planting conditions, healthy planting material and attentive care.
Did you know? Once the ancient Greek goat-like god Pan was inflamed with feelings for the nymph Syringa. The beauty ran away in fright, not responding to Pan's sympathy. Fleeing from Pan, who was pursuing her, Syringa stopped at the river, which blocked her path. She called for the help of the river god, and he turned her into a lush bush with delicate flowers lilac shade. Since then, lilac has been called the name of a beautiful nymph.
The optimal time for planting shrubs
The best time to plant lilacs is August-September. During this period, seedlings have time to take root before frost. Plant the plant in the evening or on a cloudy day. It is possible to plant in the spring before the awakening of the kidneys. In this case, it is necessary to prepare the soil for planting in the fall.
How to choose planting material
The solution to the question: how to breed lilacs on the site, begins with the choice of a seedling. A lilac seedling should have green leaves, a well-branched root system with densely growing thin roots.
best age for a seedling - 2-3 years, the plant can be both grafted and own-rooted, and the growth of the seedling is from 50 to 70 cm, the diameter of the root lobe is about 30 cm. Such plants tolerate transplantation more easily and take root more easily, their root system less injured. Keep this in mind for the future when you dig up your own seedlings: the roots cannot be damaged, the seedling is dug out with a clod of earth.
Lilac planting scheme
When planting, first, deal with the pit for the seedling: in fertile soil, the depth of the pit is equal to the length of the roots (up to 30 cm), on poor soils, the pit has a meter by meter size. Lay drainage at the bottom of the pit (brick fragments, large pebbles), fertilize with soil mixed with humus (15 kg), wood ash (200 g), superphosphate (30 g).
Plant a bush, spreading the roots, leave the root collar at ground level, if you do not want a lot of root shoots to develop, 2 cm above ground level. If you plan to propagate by shoots, on the contrary, deepen the root collar. Sprinkle the seedling with soil, compact around the trunk and water. After the soil absorbs water, mulch with peat or other material.
How and what to feed the lilac
If the soil was well fertilized during planting, top dressing is not needed in the first 2-3 years. Further, to stimulate growth, lilac top dressing in spring is carried out with nitrogen compounds, for better flowering- phosphorus. Feed once every 2 years potash fertilizers after flowering.
Important! Nitrogen mineral fertilizers are contraindicated in the second part of the growing season. You can not overdo it with nitrogen: lilac blooms worse, sprouts more, which do not have time to get stronger and freeze in the winter.
Do not abuse organic nitrogen fertilizers for lilacs in the spring: manure, chicken droppings - this will also affect flowering. Lilac watering is needed in the first year after planting for a good survival rate of seedlings. Adult bushes are watered only during dry periods.
Rules for pruning lilacs, do I need to trim it
To keep the bushes neat and elegant, lilac pruning is necessary. Fading, lilac partially loses its attractiveness. By nature, the shoots of the bush grow too quickly and a little sloppy: in all directions, thickening greatly.
When is lilac pruning needed?
Optimal time- the period before the start of the movement of juices along the branches - early spring. In summer, only damaged or useless shoots are removed. When to cut the lilac, the calendar will tell you: in the summer, the results of pruning can be used as cuttings or scion. After the flowering period, dry inflorescences are carefully removed, try not to damage the leaves. Broken and dried branches can be removed from the shrub during the entire period of development - flowering. Grafted plants are cleaned mainly from abundant wild growth.
Attention! It is not recommended to form lilac bushes in autumn - in winter, a branch that has not healed from a cut will freeze.
How to trim correctly
The formation of the bush "under the natural" will look good against the background rustic style in the garden. To form such a crown, create a base. The bush is formed from 3 - 4 stem branches, removing in the first year all crookedly growing and inwardly directed branches. If 2 branches approximately the same in development are formed, growing crosswise, one of them, the weaker one, is removed. The branches of the base are shortened by half the length, leaving the buds oriented in the direction of growth of future branches.
In the second year, all branches that have grown inside the bush are cut off, annual shoots are cut to buds, from which shoots forming a shape will grow. The main task this year is to evenly overgrow the crown, without voids and chaotic directions. Once this is done, trimming is stopped. Next, you need to maintain shape, sometimes removing damaged or growing inward branches, unnecessary shoots.
If there are a lot of bushes, shaping can be made easier. For the first couple of years, let the bush develop freely, and then cut off all the weak shoots that interfere with each other, leaving the strong ones. After flowering, you can carefully shorten the branches so that they all look the same.
To form a lilac in the form of a tree - a trunk - an annual bush is shortened at the height of the trunk, leaving 3-4 buds. The shoots that have grown from these buds are formed in the same way as a bush, laying the basis of the crown from them. Next, you need to cut off all the shoots in the stem area and thin out the crown.
Lilac reproduction
There are several ways to propagate lilacs. Having understood them, each gardener will choose the most suitable one for himself.
Interesting! Elizabeth I Tudor, Queen of England and Ireland, was delighted with the gift of the Austrian emperor. The Austrian autocrat brought a purple bush from Istanbul. Lilac has become one of the Queen's favorite flowers.
seeds
Seeds are collected in late autumn in wet weather so that the seeds do not accidentally wake up. The seed pods are dried for several days, the seeds are shaken out of them, removing debris.
Seeds need to be stratified: sprinkle with wet sand, fill in containers with holes at the bottom and send for 2 months to a room with a temperature of 0 to 5 degrees Celsius. In March, they are sown in a box with steamed earth (for disease prevention). Depending on the variety, seedlings appear after 10 days or 2-3 months.
When the second pair of leaves is formed, the sprouts dive into seedling boxes at a distance of 3 cm. They are planted in open ground in the month of May. You can sow before winter in a snowy crust. Seeds are buried 1.5 cm into the ground, and in the spring they dive into boxes and grow.
cuttings
Cutting lilacs with lignified shoots does not give results, it is rather an exception to the rule. Consider reproduction by green shoots. Harvest cuttings at the beginning of flowering. The cutting should have 1 internode and 2 buds. The lower cut is made, stepping back 1 cm from the kidney, the leaves are removed. For better rooting, treat with a growth stimulator before planting. Plant to a depth of 1 cm.
Propagation of lilacs by cuttings in the spring is also possible at home: you can root in a container with a transparent lid. To do this, prepare nutrient soil and coarse sand. The temperature should be maintained within 25-28 degrees Celsius. Spray the sprouts daily with water from a spray bottle. A month later, roots form, and in the fall they can be planted in the ground on the site, protecting them from freezing.
Root growth
The first growth is separated in early June before the shoots turn brown. Before separating, the soil around the donor bush must be moistened. Since the roots are still weak, carry out the procedure on a cloudy day so that they do not dry out. The length of the roots should be 3-5 cm. Put wet sand or peat on the bottom of the dive box, plant seedlings there and spray with water. Then plant in a cold greenhouse at a distance of 5 cm.
The first 7 days the plants are under the film and sprayed twice a day. Then the film is removed, and watering occurs as needed. Optimal period rearing - two periods of vegetation. Then the bushes are planted in a permanent place. Care consists in maintaining soil moisture and thinning if necessary. Priming trunk circles mulch.
Mass flowering of such bushes begins at 5-7 years of age. Despite late flowering, this method of reproduction gives the shrub longevity.
Inoculation
There are several methods of vaccination, let's talk about the most common of them.
Copulation- this is a method when the tissues of the scion and rootstock most closely match. Rootstock and scion shoots should have the same thickness. Copulation is carried out at the root neck into a trunk at a selected height and into the crown. Each branch of the skeleton is grafted separately. At correct execution actions after 2.5 months, the scion grows together.
Copulation simple, or oblique cut carried out before the onset of sap flow. The stalk is cut at an angle of 45 degrees to 2 cm in length, the cut of the stock is also. The scion is pressed against the rootstock and tightly tied.
English copy. Sections are made at an angle of 45 degrees to the longitudinal axis of the branches. To increase the area of contact and connect the scion and stock more densely and stronger, longitudinal cuts are made on both sections.
