Lilac has grown what to do. How to deal with lilac root shoots in the garden and get rid of them forever. What harm can

Lilac is a shrub prone to growth when adverse factors appear. The root system of the plant is able to spread over considerable distances, releasing young shoots. Not all varieties of shrubs give growth, and an already captured area can be cleaned without much difficulty. There are different ways to quickly and effectively get rid of lilac overgrowth, each gardener can choose the most convenient one.

It is easier to deal with overgrowth, knowing for what reason it appeared. Lilac abundantly releases new shoots when exposed to adverse factors.

Unsuccessful planting site

Lilac actively shoots if the place of growth for her is uncomfortable, threatening with diseases. So the plant tries to save itself if the mother bush dies.

Insufficient deepening of the root system

In a shrub that is not deep enough when planting, the surface roots suffer from a lack of moisture in the upper soil layer, and they begin to actively release shoots. The solution to the problem is deepening the roots. It is only necessary to add soil to the area around the plant.

Different types of shrub damage

A small injury to the trunk is enough for the bush to actively shoot. When the bark and wood are damaged, the circulation of nutrients in the tissues is disrupted. The root system, trying to save the aerial part, starts the process of plant rejuvenation by releasing numerous shoots.

What harm can it do?

An uncontrollably growing lilac is capable of capturing the entire site in a few years. Lateral roots produce several offspring every year, which can appear at a distance of several tens of centimeters from the trunk.

A bush of 50 years of age captures a plot with a diameter of more than 10 m.

Gradually, the shoots begin to give offspring, and the territory of capture expands even more. It is impossible to use the captured area either for beds or for garden plantings.

How to get rid of lilac overgrowth on the site?

Some gardeners strive to completely remove the lilac in their area, others want to leave a beautifully flowering bush, they are not satisfied only with the shoots. There are many ways to clean the site: chemicals and folk remedies are used, they are removed manually.

Use of chemistry

Strong herbicides are used to quickly get rid of lilac offspring. Suitable Tornado, Roundup. However, with a strong growth, standard spraying with these chemicals is useless.

In order to get rid of thickets for sure, processing at the beginning of the growing season is carried out according to a special scheme:

  1. The shoots are not sprayed, but coated with a brush so that the active substance penetrates the plant tissues faster and in greater concentration.
  2. If the mother bush is large, and its growth is abundant, then it will be necessary to process the shoots 2-3 times.
  3. When the growth of young plants stops, it is advisable to cover the area around the bush with dark material, leave until the next season.

If you want to get rid of thickets faster, then you can use arboricides - chemicals that act on tree and shrub vegetation.

Arboricides are potent substances. It is necessary to strictly observe the dosages, use chemical protection means.

Manual removal

Many gardeners use a simple and old way to eliminate overgrowth - they uproot a bush. Usually this method is used if etching with chemicals is undesirable.

Action algorithm:

  1. Saw off the trunks of the mother plant.
  2. Each offspring is cut at the root.
  3. Remove the top soil layer to expose the roots.
  4. Large areas of the root system are uprooted with a shovel.
  5. They are taken for lateral root layers, pull them out of the ground to one and all.

Folk remedies and recipes

If you don’t want to mess with a shovel, you can use effective folk remedies:

  1. Fill the overgrown area with salt (1 kg per 1 m 2). Pour in boiling water. Close with roofing felt or other dark material. Leave for a year or two.
  2. Cover the ground in the area with fresh manure. The procedure is carried out at the end of the growing season, the soil surface is covered with dark material for a year. Due to the saturation of the soil with organic matter, the plant will go into active growth instead of preparing for winter dormancy. The offspring will lose a lot of strength and die.
  3. Sodium nitrate works the same way. It is also applied in high concentration to the soil at the end of the growing season.

A set of preventive measures

Experienced gardeners share tips on how to avoid lilac overgrowth on the site.

Lilac is the most unpretentious, magnificent and fairly large shrub that almost everyone knows, its aroma cannot be confused with any other aroma. It is hard to imagine a summer house or a country house without lilac bushes, this is the most favorite plant of summer residents. For many gardeners, the biggest problem is that this shrub grows very strongly and nothing interferes with it, but here it can interfere with you and your comfort, other cultivated plants. Most summer residents do not know how to get rid of lilacs so as not to fight it endlessly.

And so, you need to make a recess around the bush, all the thickets were drunk at ground level and covered with fresh droppings or manure (about a bucket for each root). Pull off shoots throughout the summer. Another good old way to get rid of the roots is to fall asleep with saline, 1 kg of salt per 1 sq.m. but this method is dangerous, because soil can be saline. In addition, in the spring, when young shoots appear, treat them with a herbicide, it will help get rid of the lilac forever.

But if the shrub is already large, the shoots are constantly growing, and your hand does not rise to destroy this beautiful plant, then the question will be how to propagate lilacs in your summer cottage. The best time for this is spring, it is necessary to dig out young shoots even before the shoots begin to grow. If this moment is missed, then rooting will go worse.

Although in the summer it is possible to successfully transplant lilac branches as soon as the growth of shoots stops and buds form. This usually happens by the middle of summer, in July. When the leaves on the shoot become dark and large, proceed with the transplant. Choose an open and sunny place and immediately consider that the shrub multiplies rapidly, and therefore it is better if you know in advance that in a few years there will be no problem how to get rid of lilacs.

Lilacs are transplanted easily, the main thing is not to make blunders. If you want to learn how to plant lilacs simply and without worries, plant them on time. The best time is from mid-August to the end of September. The plant is at rest, and there is still a lot of time before winter, thanks to which the roots will have time to take root. The leaves on the bushes should not embarrass you, they retain their green freshness until the very frost, but the absence suggests that it is too late to transplant.

By planting at the right time, we simplify post-plant care, it is enough to water well once. Well, what if you can’t plant on time? Then you need to know how to plant lilacs in spring and not kill the plant. First of all, it is necessary to have time before the awakening of the kidneys. In order to help the lilac survive, you will need to remove flower buds (if any), or leave a couple of pieces to determine the variety.

Moreover, they should be watered regularly, especially in dry weather. After each watering, loosen the soil. It also does not hurt to do the treatment with root formation stimulants. If the plant begins to wither, it is advisable to spray it throughout the summer, but if it looks healthy, you should not use the stimulant.

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Good time of the day everyone!

Yesterday my husband and I tried to deal with lilacs in the garden.

It was necessary to withdraw 3 large lilac bushes from the summer cottage with minimal losses for the garden and for our forces.

Our bushes are sooooo old, dried up already in the middle, and along the edge of the bush there is a lot of young growth and this growth stretches almost 3 meters from the bushes ...

Yesterday they tried to lime one of the bushes. First, the young trees were dug around the edges, then they were broken out from the middle of the branches, and then a bonfire was made on the site of the former bush and burned ... The effect, of course, is not very good, but at least for a couple of weeks it will stop our lilacs from active reproduction ... There are a few young cuts left in order to use new ones methods...

The question is the following: How to lime the roots? And how to remove lilac bushes from under an apple tree ??? One sits right up close, so far we are afraid to touch it.

Uprooting with hands and feet - I’m afraid my husband won’t be enough for this ... He tried to lime one bush for 4 hours, then we didn’t solve the issue with the roots ...

I read about herbicides on the Internet, such as ROUNDUP, TORNADO, HURRICANE, etc. But it’s scary for an apple tree ...

Who will advise what???

These are the bushes we have along the fence ... part of the cherry weed was removed, lilacs remained “for dessert” ...





The fruits of labor of men ...





Sometimes the lilac runs wild and behaves aggressively.

How to remove lilac from the plots?

  1. Cut down the bush at the root. Water until completely destroyed with a concentrated salt solution.
  2. Cut down the bush and process "Glyphos" or "Roundup" until the entire bush is displayed.
  3. In winter, you can dig snow from the lilac trunk so that it freezes.
  4. If young growth grows, then it can be cut off near the ground and covered with roofing material or thick cardboard on top. During the summer, the site should be rebuilt. Dig up in the spring and you can grow the most unpretentious vegetables.
  5. By cutting down the lilac and removing as many roots as possible, you can tightly cover the ground with absolutely any dense dark material that is not removed for a whole year. In a year, the roots will rot on their own. For reliability, before covering the earth, shed it with a roundup.
  6. Can be used for watering auto electrolyte. It takes especially well if the lilac is first cut to the base.

Almost every homestead has trees. Sooner or later the time comes when they cease to produce a crop and must be disposed of. Cutting down a trunk is not at all difficult, but not everyone knows how to quickly uproot a stump without effort and spend a lot of energy in an unsuccessful struggle.

There are various methods for uprooting a stump without effort, and each of them has its own advantages, as it is selected individually, depending on the location of the stump itself on the site. Let's learn more about these methods.

The use of heavy equipment

As experience shows, quickly uprooting a stump without making any effort is possible only by using mechanical assistants. It should be noted right away that this method is the most expensive, because an hour of operation of such equipment is very expensive.

But the goal will be justified if there is a huge stump of large diameter on the site, which is simply unrealistic to deal with manually.

As a rule, the stump is first dug around the circumference in order to pass a steel cable under its roots. After it is securely fastened, the caterpillar tractor, with a little effort, pulls the stump out of the ground along with the thick branches of the roots. If you cut down a tree high, then you can simply wrap a high stump without excavation.

In addition to the tractor, a bulldozer or excavator can be used, which can pick up a stump in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe roots with a bucket and completely uproot it in just five minutes.

But, in this way, stumps can be uprooted in the area where it is possible to turn around this large-sized equipment, but in already cultivated areas, this is often impossible. Therefore, heavy artillery is used at the site planning stage, when there are no fences and long-term plantings in the garden and garden.

A completely different matter is a small cutter or stump grinder, which has dimensions no larger than a lawn mower. With the help of such manual equipment, the stump and adjacent roots are easily crushed into sawdust to a depth of 30 centimeters.

manual method

Swinging a sledgehammer and wielding a crowbar is a task that not everyone can do. But you can cheat a little if you use a manual winch as an addition. It is installed near the stump, the height of which should be at least a meter, for a better grip. The roots will need to be bare in order to put a wooden wedge under them on the side opposite from the winch. Without much effort, the stump can be pulled out of its place in a couple of hours of work and taken to ennoble the vacated piece of land.

Chemical method of uprooting stumps

When chemistry began to be actively used in agriculture, people learned how best to uproot stumps without physically bothering themselves at all. Although, it should be noted that this one should not count on a quick result. But if there is a year or two in stock, then it is better to use this simple version of uprooting.

In the stump it is necessary to drill as many deep holes as possible with a diameter of about 10mm. It is desirable to do this in the fall, so that during the winter the chemical processes naturally have time to produce the necessary effect on the tissues of the tree. Urea should be filled into these holes.

Thus, until next autumn, the wood will be completely destroyed and only a pile of dust will remain in place of the stump. Salt has a similar effect, which also destroys the stump, but it can only be used where development is planned, since excess salt in the soil leads to a sharp decrease in soil fertility.

But ammonium nitrate, which is also poured into drilled holes, has a slightly different effect. It is absorbed under the influence of moisture into the tissues of the tree, making them more combustible. Having saturated the stump with such a solution, you can burn it very quickly, obtaining an excellent fertile area.

Those who do not know how to properly uproot a stump on their own can be advised to contact a specialized service that cuts trees and uproots stumps. These organizations have specialized equipment and extensive experience, so they can easily save the site from such a problem as an old stump.

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Reproduction of lilac by rhizome shoots

Own-rooted varieties of common lilac from the age of four and five begin to produce shoots. Not all varieties are able to develop a lot of shoots. There are also those who give it little or almost none. Especially a lot of shoots appear, starting from the age of five to ten, in bushes growing on deep, fertile, well-drained and warm soils. The shoot inherits all the characteristics of the variety, it can be successfully used for reproduction. In small gardens, it is grown up to two or three years, without separating it from the mother plant, then at the end of summer - the beginning of autumn, it is transplanted to a permanent place.

The first time the lilac shoots are separated in early June when it reaches 5-7 cm in height, when the shoots have not yet turned brown. Before separation, the soil on the uterine plot is abundantly watered. The roots of the overgrown are very tender, quickly wither, so you need to separate it in cloudy weather or in the morning and evening hours, as it is planted.

When digging, the roots should be 3-5 cm long. The plants are placed in a pick box, the bottom of which is sprinkled with wet moss, peat or sand, and sprayed. Then planted in a cold greenhouse. The density of planting in a row and between rows is 5-7 cm.

The first week after planting, lilac plants are kept under a film and sprayed twice a day.

During this time, they develop young roots. Then the shelter is removed and watered as needed. In the nursery, it is better to grow the shoots in two growing seasons. In the second year, at the end of summer - the beginning of autumn, seedlings are transplanted to grow into a school of shrubs for two years.

The second time the lilac shoots are separated in late August - early September, in more southern zones - later. Its height at this time is 15 cm or more, and the shoots are somewhat woody. The roots when digging may not be very long, but rather well branched. According to the degree of development, the shoots are sorted into two varieties. The first includes stronger plants. They are planted for two or three years in the school of shrubs for growing, after which they are sold as standard seedlings. The second grade shoots are dived onto the ridges, where they are grown for one or two years, and then transplanted for two years into the school of shrubs.

When caring for lilac mother plants, special attention should be paid to the timely thinning of the bushes, the removal of old and diseased branches; faded panicles are cut if seed collection is not expected. The soil of the near-stem circles is sufficiently fertilized, moderately moistened and mulched.

Lilac bushes grown from shoots enter a period of mass flowering at the age of five to seven years, that is, about two years later than with those propagation methods when shoots are taken from already flowering branches. However, the late start of flowering seedlings of coppice origin more than pays off with their longevity.

The degree of development of shoots in own-rooted plants of different varieties of lilacs has been little studied. It is known that many shoots are formed in such varieties as Buffon, Madame Casimir Perrier, Captain Balte, Condorcet, Reaumur, Furst Bülow.

Lilac. How to fight? Help Wanted!

Good time of the day everyone!
Yesterday my husband and I tried to deal with lilacs in the garden.

It was necessary to withdraw 3 large lilac bushes from the summer cottage with minimal losses for the garden and for our forces.
Our bushes are sooooo old, withered already in the middle, and along the edge of the bush there is a lot of young growth and this growth stretches almost 3 meters from the bushes.
Yesterday they tried to lime one of the bushes. First, the young growth was dug around the edges, then they broke out the branches from the middle, and then they made a fire in the place of the former bush and burned it out. The effect, of course, is not very good, but at least for a couple of weeks this will stop our lilacs from active reproduction. There are a few young cuts left to use the new methods.
The question is the following: How to lime the roots? And how to remove lilac bushes from under an apple tree. One sits right up close, so far we are afraid to touch it.
Uprooting with hands and feet - I'm afraid my husband won't have enough for this. He tried to lime one bush for 4 hours, then we did not solve the issue with the roots.
I read on the internet about herbicides, such as ROUNDUP, TORNADO, HURRICANE, etc.

But scary for an apple tree.
Who will advise.

These are the bushes we have along the fence. part of the cherry weed was removed, lilacs remained “for dessert”.

Fruits of men's labors.

First, cut down everything. And it’s even easier to mow small branches with a trimmer. Good trimmers take branches up to 3 cm. That is, in five minutes the husband will mow everything that is needed and unnecessary. Only instead of fishing line, you need to put knives. And then let him take an ax, which is not a pity, and cut all the branches right in the ground. The apple tree will not suffer. If new ones come out over the summer, let them cut them again. You can then dig this place several times with a cultivator without going too deep. Then dig it with a shovel. I so exhausted the bird cherry bush. And the bush was not like yours. It was five meters high.

Daughter Carlo writes:

Good trimmers take branches up to 3 cm; I need to have such a dead one, only cut grass and only not dry. but I still can’t afford a more powerful one, I also dream

Ask your neighbors. Someone in the village puts hayfields with such a thing. Or ask if there are knives for your dead one too.

there are no knives on my dead one)))) his motor will not stand it, I thought to independently come up with something like that and ask. and it is not necessary! pay and you will be mowed down

Well then, ax in your hands and cut down everything right in the ground.

noooo! everything is fine with me with lilacs!))))) I'm not going to cut it down, on the contrary, I want to plant it along the back boundary of the plot instead of a fence, this is the author of the post, the lilac has grown)))))

Maybe you will find something useful for yourself here?
http://www.asienda.ru/post/1428/
Cutting down, as I understand it, is not difficult? But to remove the roots.

I read this post, thanks. The trouble is that there is no trunk as such. only branches and roots. (((((Therefore, it was not possible to use this post. (((

Here, for example, the first way, where you need to fill in saltpeter, can help. If you cut everything down, make holes in several stumps and fill it with saltpeter.
Or method number 4, where to pour salt

I also sprayed the bushes and even drained the wild tornado and all the roots were gone without any problems

I have not been able to grow lilacs for years, they are dying in my swamp, and you don’t know how to get rid of them. Probably we are in the north only happy with every flowering stick

I would also be happy to bloom. BUT our junk is not something to bloom. it can't really grow anymore. a rotten stump sits, and a trifle climbs around. husband said LIME. and dot. I wanted to dig her. young man on the fence. but he is totally against it.

Although the lilac looks very nice and smells good.

Here you can clean up.

They began to clean up the lilacs, the old fence began to collapse. It turns out he was on the bushes. Now we need to wait for the repair of the fence.)))

I just started a repair, I wanted to change the wallpaper, I began to tear off the old ones, and the ceiling fell on me), or rather the wallpaper from the ceiling, it turns out that they were holding on to the wallpaper on the wall, I also had to make the ceiling.

Encyclopedia of Plants

Stinky basil is part of a family called Ranunculaceae, in Latin the name of this plant is as follows: Thalictrum foetidum L. Description of stinky basil Stinky basil is a perennial herbaceous plant, the height of which will fluctuate between fifteen and sixty-five centimeters.

http://www.asienda.ru

A well-groomed shrub is not only a striking subject of landscape design, but also brings delicious fruits.

How beautifully lilac or jasmine blooms in spring and what delicious strawberry or blackcurrant jam can be. It's almost a taste of childhood. But fruit or ornamental bushes need to be constantly monitored, cut, cleaned and sometimes dug up in order to allow other crops to fully develop. A perfectly reasonable question arises how to remove shrubs correctly, so that next year he does not give new shoots. As with removing trees and stumps, the manual removal method is most often used. It is the most simple, accessible, understandable and cost-effective. In addition, removing shrubs is not such a large-scale event as uprooting fruit trees, for example.

So, we will consider options for solving the problem in various ways, so that it is easier to navigate when choosing the right one:

  1. How to remove shrubs from the site manually - to begin with, the bush needs to be inspected and assessed the scope of the work in order to determine what kind of cutting tool may come in handy.

    If the plant is small, a hand saw will suffice, if the main branches are somewhere as thick as a thumb, then it is better to take a chainsaw. First, the largest branches and the crown of the bush are cut off, then with the help of a shovel, you should dig it up and take it out along with the roots. It is imperative to remove all the roots so that next year there is no annoying overgrowth. The process of removing shrubs is greatly facilitated if you first water the rhizome with a good pressure of water from a hose.

  2. How to remove shrubs from the site using a mechanized method? Heavily overgrown areas, where there is a lot of vegetation, are not entirely advisable to clear by hand, and it will take a lot of time. In such a situation, it is best to involve special equipment (tractor) for work or remove the bush with special equipment - a brush cutter. For uprooting, you can use a winch, which makes it much easier to pull large roots out of the ground.

    It will be an indispensable assistant in a small summer cottage or in the garden, where it is simply impossible for a tractor or excavator to drive. With a large amount of shrub vegetation, one should not forget about the disposal of logging residues and wood debris. You can’t just throw them in the trash, and lighting a fire is not always a safe undertaking. That is why it is worth taking care of cleaning the territory and removing the leftovers in advance.

  3. How to remove a lilac bush in the garden? In most cases of bush harvesting, it will be sufficient to cut down only the visible part of the ground. But some types of bushes give such abundant root shoots that sooner or later you still have to bring the process to the end. These plants include lilacs. As a result of its vital activity, it gives a lot of lateral roots, which are almost impossible to remove manually. If the bush is quite large, you can uproot the largest roots, and chop the ground around it with a shovel and sprinkle with ordinary edible salt, at the rate of 1 pack per square meter. True, the soil after such an operation will be unsuitable for growing other crops for some time. It is better to use a herbicide (for example, Roundup), which is great for cleaning shrubs. And next year, the territory can be dug up and planted on it with the most “fastidious crops”. Treatment with a chemical preparation is also suitable in the case when you do not know how to remove the roots of shrubs, usually ornamental. This event will not require special physical effort, and the territory will be fully cleaned.

"Treemaker" - a company with vast experience in the fight against unnecessary green spaces. Any process carried out by our specialists takes place in accordance with the schedule and all legal regulations. Waste disposal is also an integral part of our work. If, in order to make a decision, you need to know how much it costs to cut down a shrub in your garden, call us, our consultants are always happy to answer all your questions and offer options for a way out of the situation.

"Treemaker" separately provides the following services: cleaning of wood debris from the territory of the customer, purchase and export of firewood of fruit and ordinary tree species from any site.

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Lilac. How to fight? Help Wanted!

Good time of the day everyone!
Yesterday my husband and I tried to deal with lilacs in the garden. It was necessary to withdraw 3 large lilac bushes from the summer cottage with minimal losses for the garden and for our forces.
Our bushes are sooooo old, withered already in the middle, and along the edge of the bush there is a lot of young growth and this growth stretches almost 3 meters from the bushes.
Yesterday they tried to lime one of the bushes. First, the young growth was dug around the edges, then they broke out the branches from the middle, and then they made a fire in the place of the former bush and burned it out. The effect, of course, is not very good, but at least for a couple of weeks this will stop our lilacs from active reproduction. There are a few young cuts left to use the new methods.
The question is the following: How to lime the roots? And how to remove lilac bushes from under an apple tree. One sits right up close, so far we are afraid to touch it.
Uprooting with hands and feet - I'm afraid my husband won't have enough for this. He tried to lime one bush for 4 hours, then we did not solve the issue with the roots.
I read about herbicides on the Internet, such as ROUNDUP, TORNADO, HURRICANE, etc. But it's scary for an apple tree.
Who will advise.

These are the bushes we have along the fence. part of the cherry weed was removed, lilac remained "for dessert".

Fruits of men's labors.

First, cut down everything. And it’s even easier to mow small branches with a trimmer. Good trimmers take branches up to 3 cm. That is, in five minutes the husband will mow everything that is needed and unnecessary. Only instead of fishing line, you need to put knives. And then let him take an ax, which is not a pity, and cut all the branches right in the ground. The apple tree will not suffer. If new ones come out over the summer, let them cut them again. You can then dig this place several times with a cultivator without going too deep. Then dig it with a shovel. I so exhausted the bird cherry bush. And the bush was not like yours. It was five meters high.

Daughter Carlo writes:

Good trimmers take branches up to 3 cm; I need to have such a dead one, only cut grass and only not dry. but I still can’t afford a more powerful one, I also dream

Ask your neighbors. Someone in the village puts hayfields with such a thing. Or ask if there are knives for your dead one too.

there are no knives on my dead one)))) his motor will not stand it, I thought to independently come up with something like that and ask. and it is not necessary! pay and you will be mowed down

Well then, ax in your hands and cut down everything right in the ground.

noooo! everything is fine with me with lilacs!))))) I'm not going to cut it down, on the contrary, I want to plant it along the back boundary of the plot instead of a fence, this is the author of the post, the lilac has grown)))))

Maybe you will find something useful for yourself here?
http://www.asienda.ru/post/1428/
Cutting down, as I understand it, is not difficult? But to remove the roots.

I read this post, thanks. The trouble is that there is no trunk as such. only branches and roots. (((((Therefore, it was not possible to use this post. (((

Here, for example, the first way, where you need to fill in saltpeter - can help. If you cut everything down, make holes in several stumps and fill it with saltpeter.
Or method number 4, where to pour salt

I also sprayed the bushes and even drained the wild tornado and all the roots were gone without any problems

I have not been able to grow lilacs for years, they are dying in my swamp, and you don’t know how to get rid of them. Probably we are in the north only happy with every flowering stick

I would also be happy to bloom. BUT our junk is not something to bloom. it can't really grow anymore. a rotten stump sits, and a trifle climbs around. husband said LIME. and dot. I wanted to dig her. young man on the fence. but he is totally against it.

Although the lilac looks very nice and smells good.

Here you can clean up. They began to clean up the lilacs, the old fence began to collapse. It turns out he was on the bushes. Now we need to wait for the repair of the fence.)))

I just started a repair, I wanted to change the wallpaper, I began to tear off the old ones, and the ceiling fell on me), or rather the wallpaper from the ceiling, it turns out that they were holding on to the wallpaper on the wall, I also had to make the ceiling.

Encyclopedia of Plants

Stinky basil is part of a family called Ranunculaceae, in Latin the name of this plant is as follows: Thalictrum foetidum L. Description of stinky basil Stinky basil is a perennial herbaceous plant, the height of which will fluctuate between fifteen and sixty-five centimeters.

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