Supply and exhaust ventilation in the bathroom. Proper ventilation in the bathroom and toilet in a private house. What preventive measures will help to avoid the formation of mold in the bathroom

Each bathroom is characterized by an increased level of humidity. In order to prevent such a phenomenon as the formation of mold or fungus, it is worth checking the health of the ventilation system or installing additional equipment. Very often, many people have the question of how to make ventilation in the toilet with their own hands.

Checking the operation of ventilation is simple: a sheet of paper attached to the ventilation hole should not fall.

In order to prevent mold on surfaces, there are several options for dealing with it:

insulate all surfaces - this method will prevent the formation of condensate;
a very effective method is the forced ventilation device.

Natural ventilation cleaning

To clean the ventilation from dust, debris, use a brush with a long flexible handle.

If the natural ventilation system in the toilet is not working well, it is worth cleaning the channels. To do this, it is worth removing all the accumulated dust and cobwebs from the channel. To carry out such a procedure, it is worth using a brush with a long flexible handle.

Air duct cleaners can use a more dangerous cleaning option that uses a gas canister filled with a flammable liquid. This method involves burning dust. It is strictly forbidden to carry out such a procedure on your own, without experience, it is better to entrust everything to specialists.

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Forced ventilation

In order for high-quality air exchange to occur in the toilet, it is worth making ventilation that will work automatically. This is very important so that air with heavy odors and vapors does not penetrate into the living quarters. Forced must be equipped with its own exhaust duct. The owner will be presented with a choice of ceiling and wall ventilation systems.

Scheme of the device of general ventilation in the bathroom and toilet.

To place the toilet, it is worth choosing a supply and exhaust system as forced ventilation. Such a system will regularly circulate the air in the room. In addition, it does not involve cutting out an additional ventilation duct, which can subsequently compromise the strength and reliability of the wall.

The ventilation in the toilet, built with your own hands, is quite simple, the main thing is to understand all the nuances. The need for ventilation often arises at a time when natural ventilation does not perform its basic functions well.

This problem is especially evident in the summer, this is due to the fact that the temperature outside and inside the room is almost the same, and the Bernoulli effect does not work. Also, the deterioration of the work of natural ventilation is due to the fact that plastic windows are installed in apartments and houses, which hermetically close the premises and prevent the penetration of fresh air. Also, doors that close tightly prevent air from entering the toilet room. This problem is especially evident on the upper floors of high-rise buildings, where the temperature outside in summer is much higher than indoors. This problem is less noticeable on the lower floors, where the temperature difference remains even at the minimum.

As an option, an automatic exhaust system can be installed, in which case the air will be forcibly removed from the room to the outside. But it should be borne in mind that due to the lack of air in the room, the maximum efficiency of such a system will not be achieved.

The best option is to make ventilation in the supply and exhaust type toilet.

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What may be required in the course of work

Scheme of connecting a fan to a light switch.

In order to make ventilation in the toilet with your own hands, you should purchase all the necessary tools and materials. Everything you need can be bought in a special department of a hardware store. It’s worth buying everything at once, having previously drawn up a plan according to which a forced ventilation system will be installed.

Examples of materials for creating forced ventilation:

tin boxes - today they are presented in a variety of forms;
plastic boxes;
flexible air ducts, which are made in the form of a flexible aluminum pipe;
corrugated plastic pipes;
flexible plastic air ducts;
fans;
recuperators.

In order to carry out installation work on the installation of a ventilation system, it is worth preparing the necessary equipment:

tape measure and pencil for marking;
hacksaw and scissors;
construction knife;
hammer for driving dowels;
drill and screwdriver;
screwdriver with different nozzles;
fasteners - dowels, screws, self-tapping screws.

In the winter season, it is very important to equip the ventilation system with supply valves.

Scheme of turning on the fan from a light switch with a timer.

This element is a regular hole in the wall with a branch pipe with one or two wings. The location of the valves can be carried out manually or automatically. For maximum comfort, such an opening is located behind the convector or heating radiator.

This arrangement contributes to an increase in traction and simultaneous heating of the air. This will allow you to use the ventilation system without additional fans. One valve is enough to ensure normal air exchange in one room. In order to protect the room from the penetration of debris, it is worth installing a grate.

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The use of recuperators in the ventilation system

To place the toilet, it is still the best option to equip the system with a special fan, which will significantly improve the performance of the entire system. This is especially necessary for the summer period. Modern technologies are moving forward, and one of the modern elements that can be equipped with a ventilation system is a heat exchanger. This device will circulate air regardless of the weather conditions outside. In order to install a supply and ventilation system, you must:

Diagram of a supply and exhaust unit with a heat recuperator and supply air filtration.

4 holes, which are connected in pairs with special components "street - room", "room - street";
the main essence of the system is that clean air is taken directly from the street and enters the premises, and the exhaust is taken out;
recuperators are equipped with special filters that clean the incoming air from dust;
recuperators operate automatically or with the help of a control system.

At the time of planning the interior and finishing work in the bathroom, you need to pay attention to a very serious issue, this properly functioning ventilation device. Well-arranged ventilation in the bathroom and toilet performs not only the role of the main air exchange, but also guarantees the entry of fresh air into the room.

With the help of a well-equipped ventilation system, a nasty stench and excessive moisture are eliminated from the bathroom and toilet rooms. Therefore, due to a well-thought-out and well-mounted system of proper ventilation, the owners, in whose apartment such an air hood is installed, should not worry about the appearance of various molds and smells of dampness.

Ventilation system.

The building regulations prescribed in the reference books clearly establish the necessary standards that must be followed to achieve a good result when ventilating bathrooms with a high concentration of humid air.

According to the norms, ventilation ensures the supply of fresh condensate in the amount of 25 cubic meters per hour for the bath and toilet rooms, and for a room with combined bathrooms, the norm will be 50 cubic meters per hour. These are average standards for ventilation systems. Sometimes such norms may be recommended to increase to 150 cubic meters per hour.

Depending on the type of air ventilation, ventilation can be divided into natural and forced system . In the first variant, ventilation of the room is carried out due to the difference, which occurs due to different air pressure outside and inside the room.

Air flows through doors and windows, as well as special ventilation holes in the toilet and bathroom. True, it should be noted that due to the special internal arrangement of the bathrooms, the use of a natural method of ventilating a room does not always make it possible to obtain the desired result. To arrange a natural way of ventilation in the room, you need to make an opening connecting the hole for natural ventilation in the house with the bathroom.

During the implementation of a forced or artificial method of ventilation of sanitary facilities, apply specialized fans , giving an intense flow of fresh air, ensuring good air exchange.

Often, an electric fan directs air flows from the bathroom to the street, while fresh air enters the bathroom from the rest of the apartment.

Very often, owners install a small toilet in the toilet with their own hands. electric fan - an air vent, even considering that the house has excellent natural ventilation, this is done to speed up the cleaning of the air space in the room from disgusting odors.

If the owners fail to get good, natural ventilation in the bathroom and toilet, forced ventilation in the premises must be installed.

Types of ventilation.

Ventilation is divided depending on its application into:

Exhaust type of ventilation installed in the premises.
Supply type ventilation.
Mixed ventilation in rooms.

Exhaust ventilation of premises , described by us earlier, is when fresh air enters the room through external sources, squeezing out the old air mass due to the pressure difference.

Supply type of ventilation in the bathroom and toilet rooms it is performed in a different way, the air mass warmed up from the outside is squeezed out through special vents.

During operation mixed system Air ventilation uses an adjustable flow of air mass in rooms for various purposes.

The ventilation system may or may not have a duct to ventilate the airflow, thus it is subdivided into channel and non-channel.

If possible, duct ventilation should be avoided. The best way out in this case is to slightly expand the hole in the wall, which serves as an exit to the common ventilation duct of a multi-storey building, and mount a small fan in it to extract air.

In separate toilet and bathroom, if there is only one ventilation hole with access to the general ventilation in the house, another hole with a fan is made between the bathroom and the toilet.

Installation of a special channel for ventilation makes sense in those places where enhanced ventilation of the room from polluted or humid air space is necessary.

Diagnostics of the ventilation system.

Before you improve ventilation in the bathroom and toilet, you need to carefully familiarize yourself with its device and diagnose its condition.

How to check ventilation in the easiest way, finding out if everything is in order with her. To do this, we first study air draft, a burning match or torch should be brought to the ventilation hole. Fluctuations or displacements of the flame towards the ventilation duct are proof that everything is in order with the air draft. In hot or calm weather, air draft is significantly reduced compared to windy or cool weather. It is desirable to carry out such diagnostics both with the door to the bathroom open and closed, in addition, for a better effect, you need to open a window in the apartment that faces the street. In the event of a decrease in the supply of fresh air, it is best to install means that will complement the ventilation system. Usually, in this case, to improve the ventilation process, special gratings are mounted in the doors to the bathroom and toilet, due to which the normal supply of fresh air mass is carried out with the doors tightly closed.

Even if there is good air draft in the system, it is not always possible to draw a conclusion about the normal functioning of ventilation. How to make the ventilation in the toilet and bathroom work normally, the way out is quite simple. To do this, it is necessary to check the working condition of the air exchange channel, which may have ceased to function normally as a result of unprofessional repair work or due to some unidentified reasons. By completely eliminating various blockages and blockages in the channel, it is possible to change the operation of the air ventilation system for the better.

Fan characteristics.

By purchasing vent fan , it is imperative to evaluate the noise that comes from the operation of the device. During normal operation, the amount of noise should not exceed 35 decibels. At the same time, in the room, as a result of air circulation, fresh air should update the room from 5 to 8 times in one hour. To calculate the performance of the device, you need to multiply the space of the room, calculated in cubic meters, by 5, and increase the result by 20%. Fans differ in the way of installation, devices of the same type are installed in the duct itself for ventilation, there are also radial devices mounted at the outlet of the duct. Such fans have a discreet appearance, as they are hidden from the inside. Radial models usually have a decent look in order to fit into the overall interior of the room.

Fan models can also have a strong difference:

Ordinary axial devices , supply the air mass along the axis of the structure using the blades used for channelless devices.
AT diametral devices low productivity, a drum-type wheel is used.
Centrifugal models have an increased coefficient of efficiency in operation, as well as a high level of noise.
Centrifugal axial fans emit less noise, but give the same effect during operation as centrifugal models of devices.

Improving ventilation in the toilet and bathroom, in some cases, timers and gyrostats are mounted on fans, with which it is possible to extend the operation of the device to achieve a better result.

Devices whose power is extremely weak cannot perform effective weathering of odors and moisture, but it is not advisable to operate high-power models either. Appliances with high power can give such a high-intensity air flow that the air will not come from outside, but from various ventilation holes, in which case the stale air will again enter the room.

Ventilation system device.

If for some reason there is no ventilation system in the room, it is necessary to immediately ventilate the bathroom, this is not too difficult a process.

High-rise buildings are designed so that the ventilation shaft is located behind the wall of the bathroom or toilet room. Mounting the correct forced ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is not very difficult. It is necessary to make a neat vent, if it was not there, then attach an axial-type radial fan from the inside of the hole, and connect it to electricity in compliance with all norms and requirements for the operation of electrical devices in high humidity conditions.

The outlet for aesthetics is covered with a beautifully made grille. If the living area has a shared sanitary unit, and the ventilation hole is located on the wall between the two rooms, the second fan is installed in the manner described above. In some cases, it is very convenient to use decorative grilles specially designed for the installation of fans in them.

It is much more difficult to install ventilation in the bathroom and toilet, when the ventilation shaft borders on another room; in this case, installation of a channel hood is provided. To start work on the device, you need to choose a place for the vent of the bathroom and in the toilet. After that, you need to think over a plan for constructing a ventilation duct, through which the air masses will go into the mine.

ventilation ducts they differ in the following characteristics:

Rectangular or round box made of plastic.
Hard and soft type boxes made from corrugated iron.
Rectangular boxes made of plain or galvanized sheet.

Plastic products light and very simple when installing forced ventilation in the bathroom. They are much more durable than metal products, have a lower price and are easier to maintain. For this reason, plastic products are actively replacing metal products in the building materials market today. As for the use of corrugated products, its use is extremely rare, and this does not have any effect on the overall picture.

The box is best installed even before the start of the main repair work, but the installation of electrical equipment and gratings on the outlet is carried out after the main finish. At the final stage, the installed equipment is checked.

Errors that are possible with the ventilation device.

Sometimes it happens that the newly installed forced ventilation in the bathroom malfunctions and does not meet its requirements. This is a consequence of improper installation of the device and some errors made at the time of installation. Even before starting installation work, you need to clearly know how to make ventilation in the bathroom and toilet.

Here are some mistakes that are often made at work:

The ventilation channel is not designed correctly, this creates difficulties for the movement of air flow.
Rupture of hermetic connections of the ventilation duct.
Incorrectly installed fans, while they make a lot of noise.
The ventilation duct stretches through the rooms, creating unnecessary noise with its work.

Most of these unpleasant problems can be avoided. How to make ventilation correctly, for this you need to pay attention even at the stage of drawing up and thinking over a plan for the future installation of the structure. If all this was not done, and unpleasant problems arose already during the operation of the ventilation system, in this case a complete redesign of the entire structure may be required.

Another way to make forced ventilation work properly is to use different noise absorbers and installation of a more powerful fan .

If the bathroom, which should be a model of cleanliness and comfort, is associated with heavy air, damp towels and mold dangerous to health, and smells from the toilet are spreading throughout the house, then it's time to think about forced ventilation at home. Simply put, forced ventilation is the installation of exhaust equipment in the ventilation duct. In addition, coolers can be installed in a hole in the wall, which will ensure ventilation of rooms where there was no ventilation at all initially.

Features of ventilation of a bathroom in a private house

The air enters the bathroom and from other rooms. For ventilation, a small gap (2-2.5 cm) is left between both the floor and the door leaf or special ones are purchased, the canvas of which has round ventilation holes. Air escapes through an open ventilation duct. If the doors are solid, and a very responsible installer also did not leave a single gap, the bathroom will have to be left open for ventilation. The same goes for the toilet. With doors ajar and air flowing, unwanted odors will leave the room faster than if it were clogged. This is how natural works.

A well-designed ventilation system is an integral part of the bathroom or toilet.

This system is as simple as possible, but unreliable. In modern houses and cottages, ventilation is increasingly failing. Complicate work:

Sealed doors and plastic windows;
Reducing the lumen of the channel as a result of contamination with dust, dirt, cobwebs;
Incorrectly designed hood;
Windy weather;
An uninsulated channel, inside which the air cools quickly and slowly rises.

Attention! When the fan is running, it is necessary to ensure the flow of air into the ventilated room. Otherwise, air exchange will not be effective.

If the device removes 100 m3 of air per hour, at least the same amount must be supplied, which is not possible with hermetically closed doors.

Forced ventilation: DIY

It is customary to separate the ventilation ducts of the kitchen and the bathroom by building codes, and the separate bath and toilet are usually combined with a common ventilation duct or a hole in the adjacent wall, which is covered with a decorative grille. Less often, each room is equipped with separate ventilation and its own exhaust “window”.

Varieties of fans for arranging a ventilation system

Types of exhaust devices for the bathroom and toilet:

Axial fan (wall, ceiling) for channels 100, 125, 150 mm.
Centrifugal fan (wall, ceiling) for channels 100, 125, 150 mm.
Supply and exhaust heat exchangers, depending on the manufacturer and model, require one hole with a diameter of 215-225 mm or two 80-90 mm each with a distance of 200-350 mm between them. A device of this type provides supply and exhaust ventilation with the possibility of heating the incoming air.

Re-equipment of natural ventilation

If the bathroom already has natural ventilation, this will greatly simplify the work. It is enough to remove the grille, install a fan in the hole and connect it to the power supply.

Most often, it is necessary to equip ventilation from scratch when in a private house a room not previously provided for this becomes a bathroom. In this case, ventilation is done through a wall or ceiling (roof). Each method has its own nuances of advantages and disadvantages.

Advice. A check valve is a very useful thing when installing ventilation. It does not allow air from the street to get back into the house.

ventilation through the wall

This option has undeniable advantages. Good air exchange can be done where there is no duct system or the ability to build one. The whole installation process is quite simple and relatively cheap. Save space under the ceiling or in the attic. Of the minuses: natural ventilation is almost completely absent, since the channel is blocked by the blades; the likelihood of drips from condensation on the facade of the house; poor thermal insulation of the channel, which will be noticeable in severe frosts.

With a competent and careful approach, even a beginner can install a ventilation system

An exhaust hole is made on the wall opposite the door using a puncher or a powerful impact drill. There is a lot of dust and debris in the process of work, and the edges of the hole will most likely not be very smooth. Another thing is expensive, but almost perfect diamond drilling. The ventilation duct in the wall will be a pipe of a suitable diameter made of plastic or stainless steel. Around the circumference it is fixed with mounting foam. Outside the house, it is impractical to bring the pipe a long distance from the wall. You can cover the channel from the street with an ordinary grate with a visor or a check valve.

Attention! When choosing a place for drilling on a wall or ceiling, you should make sure that there are no electrical wiring and other communications on the site.

Ventilation through the roof

Another option: make a hole in the ceiling, from it, through the roof, bring the ventilation pipe to a height of about 3 m. It is recommended to use galvanized or plastic ones. Preferably no turns. Less resistance, better traction and ventilation. A diffuser is installed on the roof. The deflector is not needed, since ventilation is forced. The pipe is insulated with foiled mineral wool with a diameter of 50 mm. The seams are sealed with foil tape. If this is not done, condensation in cold weather cannot be avoided.

A home-made ventilation duct is attached strictly vertically with clamps to the rafters, or other durable structures in the attic. From the side of the bath, ventilation equipment is installed in the hole.

How long should the fan run

Usually the fan is connected with the light. The light turns on - the fan works, the light turns off, the device, respectively, and the air movement stops. This may not be enough for normal air exchange. In addition, it is not always convenient.

There are several main ways to connect exhaust equipment:
Along with the light. When connected to the light circuit, the device starts working at the moment the light is turned on;
Simultaneously with the light with the possibility of manual shutdown. If necessary, you can disconnect ventilation and lighting if the device is equipped with a key or a cord on the case to turn off the power;
Simultaneously with the light with automatic fan shutdown via humidity sensor and/or timer;
Independent connection to a separate switch.

The operating time of the fan depends on the temperature and humidity conditions and the power of the device, and therefore in each case individually. Experts say that the best solution is to install a model with a timer and a humidity sensor. That is, every time after visiting the bathroom, the device works for some more time. How much, it is better to calculate individually. For example, the volume of the sanitary unit is 16 m3, and the productivity of the device is 120 m3/hour. It turns out that it takes 8 minutes to update the entire volume of air. The humidity sensor will not allow the device to turn off if the microclimate has not had time to normalize during this time.

Do-it-yourself fan installation

Immediately before installing the device, it is necessary to complete the preparatory work: equip or clean the ventilation duct, supply power. The next key point will be familiarity with the instructions.

Scheme of the ventilation system

The device is installed in the following sequence:

Take off the front cover.
Mark the junction with the wall and drill holes for the screws. Also, fans can be mounted on liquid nails, polymer glue, silicone.
The device is installed in such a way that its working part is completely drowned in the channel.
Fix on the surface of the wall or ceiling.
Connect to power. The standard connection diagram for a model with a timer and a sensor looks like this: N to zero, L to phase, Ls to the phase that comes to the light bulb after the switch.
Attach the front cover, which snaps into place or is screwed on with self-tapping screws.
The last step is to check if the ventilation is working properly.

Advice. Natural and forced ventilation can work simultaneously. To do this, a special fan model is installed in a wide ventilation duct. In addition to the electrical part with blades, it is equipped with a grill for free air movement.

In general, it is not difficult to organize forced ventilation based on natural ventilation. Ventilation equipment from scratch will become more laborious, but even it can be done independently.

Video: Installing a fan in a bathroom or toilet

To ensure normal air exchange in a house or apartment, two components are necessary: the inflow of fresh air through the living rooms and its outflow from the technical ones. Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is one of the components of the outflow. Therefore, it is necessary to do it right.

According to the principle of operation, ventilation can be natural or mechanical, they also say - forced. The natural movement of air occurs due to the movement of wind, temperature differences and, resulting from this, pressure drops. When mechanical ventilation is used, air movement is caused by fans.

From the point of view of an urban man, forced movement is preferable: everyone has long been accustomed to the fact that life support depends on the availability of electricity. And it rarely disappears in cities. But in rural areas in winter, power outages are rather the norm. Therefore, probably, they tend to mainly make systems non-volatile, or at least redundant.

But the natural ventilation in the bathroom and bathroom should be too large. After all, the lower the speed of air movement through the channel, the greater the cross-section of the duct is needed to ensure the transfer of the required volumes. No one will argue that when the fan is on, the air moves faster. This is even reflected in the SNiP: the rate of movement for ventilation systems with natural circulation is up to 1 m 3 / h, for mechanical ones - from 3 to 5 m 3 / h. Therefore, for the same room and conditions, the dimensions of the channels will be different. For example, to transfer a flow of 300 m 3 / h, you will need:

Therefore, few people today manage with natural ventilation. Unless in small houses (up to 100 sq. m.). Even in apartments with channels leading to the roof, bathrooms and toilets are ventilated using fans.

Organization rules

When installing an air movement system, you need to remember the basic principle: in order for everything to work efficiently, it is necessary to ensure the flow of air through the living rooms and its flow into the technical rooms. From there, he leaves through the ventilation ducts.

Today, air flow has become a problem: by reducing heating costs, we have cut off almost all sources of its supply. We install airtight windows, we insulate the walls through which at least a little air enters with airtight materials. The third source - entrance doors - today, almost all have iron ones, with a rubber seal. There was, in fact, the only way - airing. But we do not abuse it at all: it blows out heat. As a result, to the problems of lack of oxygen in the room, the problem of dampness is added: there is no inflow, and the outflow is inefficient. Even forced.

If you want the ventilation to be normal, and the walls in the rooms not to “wet”, make ventilation holes. There is such an option on metal-plastic windows, and there are separate devices that are mounted anywhere on the wall. They are available with adjustable shutters, of various shapes and sizes, and are covered with bars from the outside. It is best to install under the windows, above or behind the batteries. Then they are not visible in the room, and in winter the air coming from the street is heated.

Having ensured the inflow, care must be taken to ensure that it enters the technical premises through the doors. Therefore, there should be gaps under all doors: through them, air will flow into other rooms. It is advisable to install a ventilation grill in the bathroom doors and / or also make a gap of at least 2 cm from the floor. The same rules apply to other technical rooms: kitchen and toilet. Only if there is movement of air masses will ventilation work.

The doors of technical rooms - kitchens, bathrooms, toilets - must have ventilation grilles or valves. There are even valves with noise absorption, and the smell, if properly organized, will never get into other rooms

Calculation of fan performance for bathroom and toilet

To decide which fan to put on the bathtub with a toilet, you need to calculate the necessary air exchange. The calculation is a whole system, but when installing a fan, the main attention is paid to its characteristics: it provides the required air speed. In order not to interfere in the calculations, its performance can be taken according to average numbers.

Air exchange rate for different rooms. With their help, ventilation is calculated in the bathroom and toilet

As you can see from the table (this is from SNiP), for a bathroom, at least 25 m 3 / h should be “pumped” per hour, for a toilet or a combined bathroom, the speed should be twice as high - 50 m 3 / h. These are the minimum values. In reality, through three (or two) technical rooms - a kitchen, a toilet, a bathroom - as much air should leave as it enters through the supply ventilation.

The calculation of the inflow is carried out according to the volume of all residential premises and usually exceeds it by 1.5-2 times, and the minimum values \u200b\u200bindicated in the table are not enough to ensure the required air exchange. Therefore, the performance of the fans is taken with at least a double margin, and even more for kitchens: this way there will be no unpleasant odors in the apartment, as well as dampness and fungi. Therefore, when going to the bathroom with a fan with a lower capacity than 100 m 3 / h, it is better not to take it.

Choice

First of all, you need to decide where you will put the fan: in the duct or on the wall. Accordingly, the type: channel or wall. In wall-mounted versions, there can also be two types: for installation at the inlet of the ventilation duct - they create more pressure, and for ductless installation - exit directly through the wall to the street. For a channelless installation, axial-type fans are usually used - they cannot create a pressure of more than 50 Pa; for this reason, they are not installed in channels.

In addition to the performance that you calculated, another important characteristic is the noise level. The smaller it is, the better. It is good if the noise level is no more than 35 dB.

Another thing to pay attention to is the level of electrical safety. For use in rooms with high humidity, a protection level of at least IP 44 is required (indicated on the fan housing).

Connecting a fan in the bathroom

For the fan to work, power is needed and the main question is how to connect it. There are several possibilities:

Connect in parallel with lighting. When you turn on the light in the bathroom or toilet, the fan automatically starts. But it also turns off automatically when the light is turned off. For the toilet, this situation is normal, but for the bathroom - not always. For example, after taking a hot shower, all the steam will not go away. Therefore, for bathrooms, you can use a different way to connect the fan or set a shutdown delay (a special device on which you can set the time interval after which the power will turn off).

Output to a separate switch key or put a separate toggle switch / button.
Set a timer that will automatically power up according to a schedule.

The electrical part is the hardest part. You will have to punch a strobe in the wall, “pack” the power cable into it, bring it to the installation site of the switch and connect it there, depending on the chosen method.

Checking the ventilation duct

Installing a fan in the bathroom with your own hands begins after checking the condition of the channel. To do this, remove the grate, if it has not been dismantled yet, and bring a flame (candle, lighter) or a piece of paper to the hole. If the flame or leaf is pulled steadily towards the channel, the draft is normal. If it stretches, then bends back - the thrust is unstable. In this case, if you live in an apartment building, smells from neighbors upstairs or downstairs can get to you. Then the smell in the toilet from the ventilation is possible. Traction needs to be stabilized.

If the flame or leaf almost does not deviate, the channel is clogged or blocked. In this case, mold and dampness, as well as unpleasant odors are guaranteed throughout the apartment, and in the bathroom, so be sure.

In case of abnormal draft, residents of high-rise buildings clean the channels themselves or call maintenance services. In private homes, in any case, everything falls on the shoulders of the owners. If the channel is unstable, you may have taken it out without taking into account the wind rose and the thrust periodically overturns. You can solve the problem by moving the exit, but it's not easy. To begin with, you can try to put a deflector (if it is not there) or slightly increase / decrease the height.

Features of forced ventilation in the bathroom

When the fan is installed while it is running, the amount of air discharged increases significantly. But due to the fact that the case covers part of the channel section, at other times, when the fan is not working, the flow decreases three times. As a result, the overall performance of the ventilation system drops.

To prevent this from happening, you can install a fan with an air intake grille located below and thus increase the performance to normal. The second option is to leave a gap of 1.5-2 cm between the case and the wall during installation, i.e. make legs. Air will enter the slot and ventilation will be normal in any case. See the video for more on this.

Having chosen the installation method and the type of grille, you can proceed directly to the installation. Fan sizes may vary. Therefore, each case is individual. But the basic steps are standard:

A hole must be made on the tile under the body. The easiest way is to attach a fan and outline. Then, with a special nozzle on a drill or a grinder, cut a hole of the appropriate size.
Remove the front panel from the fan. It is attached with one bolt at the bottom. The bolt was unscrewed, the grille was removed. Holes for fasteners are now visible. We insert the fan in this form into place (into the channel), mark on the tile with a pencil or marker the place where the bolts will be.
With a drill of the appropriate diameter, we make holes in the tile and wall to fit the size of the dowel.
We make an incision in the tile, where we will pass the power wire.
We insert dowels.
We stretch electrical wires through a special hole on the fan housing (if there is no hole, it is drilled).
We install in place, tighten the bolts.
We connect the wires.
We check the performance and install the grate.
For wooden toilets, all this is only partly true. Read about
Ventilation in the bathroom in a private house

Here the main difficulties may arise in the construction of exhaust channels. When planning, they can be brought together in one place and then brought to the roof. This is more difficult in terms of internal wiring - you will have to pull the ducts to the right place, and also more expensive during construction. But the look is solid.

Another way to arrange ventilation ducts: bring it through the wall, and then lift it up along the outer wall. According to the rules, for normal draft with natural ventilation, they should rise 50 cm above the ridge. But one common duct will be brought out by you or a separate one for each room - it depends on your desire or on the layout. The picture will look something like this.

There is another option: to make a mechanical hood that will work exclusively from the fan. Then, depending on the layout, one of the two options presented in the photo is suitable.

In the first case (on the left), the exhaust hole is made right in the upper part of the wall (in order for air exchange to be effective, it must be located opposite the door, obliquely, at the top). With this device, a conventional wall fan is used. The same figure shows how the number of required channels can be reduced. If your bathroom and toilet rooms are nearby, through a thin partition, then you can make a hole in the partition and install a grate. In this case, the ventilation of the bath will go through the toilet.

In the second option (pictured on the right), an air duct with a duct fan is used. The solution is simple, only there is one caveat: if the air duct ends under the roof overhang (it is short in the photo, but there are also long ones), then the tree will turn black after a while. If you draw a conclusion from the toilet this way, this may not happen, and in the case of the bathroom, high humidity will make itself felt in a couple of years. In this case, you can “pull out” the air duct to the roof cut or bring it up through the knee (but raise it 50 cm above the roof).

Designing a private house without taking into account the ventilation system is considered incorrect. For a toilet, bathroom, air change improves its composition, prevents mold from appearing on wall surfaces and ceilings, and is flexible. Air exchange improves the microclimate in the premises, protects structures from destruction.

Air exchange options for bath and toilet

Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet in a private house is carried out mainly natural and forced. The first option is more economical and easier to implement. Does not require electricity costs. A gap between the door and the floor is enough for fresh air to enter through it. Sometimes for these purposes, a ventilation grill is equipped at the bottom of the door. But the effectiveness of this method is low. The required air exchange is not performed, so mechanical devices are installed.

Forced air change does not depend on external conditions. The flow is supplied and removed in the specified mode. Energy dependence is the main disadvantage, because the fan is powered by electricity.

Features of ventilation of the bathroom and bathroom

Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet in a private house can be installed by hand. At the same time, there are no significant differences between devices and installation technologies. Difficulty can be caused by the fact that the main ventilation duct is located at some distance from the bathroom. To ensure the required and high-quality air exchange, it is necessary to organize the flow of fresh air. For this, a separate ventilation sleeve is assembled specifically for the bathroom. It should be oriented to a common (stationary) duct.

When the main channel is located in the bathroom through the wall with the toilet, it is allowed to install ventilation grilles in both rooms. In this case, the exhaust shaft should be located directly behind the wall of the toilet room, but not behind the door.

Attention! Mechanical air exchange is universal. It is suitable for combined and non-combined bathroom and bathroom ventilation systems.

With a small room size and a closely passing main channel, an overhead fan model is mounted. It is quite powerful, does not create noise in operation (up to 40 dB), consumes a small amount of electricity, fits into any room design.

Fan performance selection

The efficiency of air exchange depends on the correctly selected power of the equipment. Approximately its calculation is carried out according to the scheme.

The area of the bathroom (bathroom) is calculated.
The result obtained is multiplied by a factor of 6 (when using the premises up to three people) or by 8 (with a visit of 3 or more people).
The resulting product of numbers is the required fan performance.

In an example, it looks like this. Bathroom with an area of 15 sq.m. used by 4 people. For calculations, a correction factor of 8 is taken. Then the required fan performance will be: 15 * 8 = 120 cubic meters / h.

Attention! If it is necessary to ensure air exchange in a room with an area of more than 15 sq.m., the overhead fan model will be ineffective. Centrifugal duct blowers are better suited here.

Installation procedure

With self-installation of ventilation, the ventilation duct is preliminarily cleaned. For this, a brush or a load suspended on a rope is used. It descends several times into the channel in a rotational motion. The channel is cleaned if the indicator - a sheet of paper brought to the ventilation shaft - deviates towards the room or is not held by gravity on the grate.
All work is carried out with the electricity meter turned off at a height. To do this, you need to provide a stepladder.
Installation of the unit is carried out under the ceiling itself in the zone of maximum humidity, opposite the source of air intake.
Given the size of the fan and the location of the power supply, the position of the wiring and the installation itself is marked.
Installation work is carried out in the presence of a grate, glue for fixing it, a screwdriver, dowels. You may also need a piece of hose for the duct, as well as a drywall box to mask the pipe and unit.
The fan is installed in the air duct. If the model is of an overhead type, the box is first strengthened.
The terminals located on it are connected to a two-wire cable line with a cross section of 0.2 cm.
The fan housing is mounted directly. For this purpose, latches are provided in most models. Otherwise, dowels are used for these purposes.
If it is impossible to directly connect the installation, the air duct is built up. It is disguised in a box or decorated. In this capacity, a flexible, semi-rigid or rigid hose is used.
For economical use of electricity and rational use of equipment, it is convenient to start the fan into operation along with turning on the light: you need to run a cable from the fan to the switch.
After installation and connection, voltage is applied to the network, the operation of the forced ventilation system is checked.

Before assembling the fan into the duct, the power supply is also turned off, but the procedure is somewhat different.

The unit in the channel is placed strictly vertically, as deep as possible. This position is securely fixed so that during operation it does not fall from the generated vibrations.
The supply cable must be new, without kinks and damage to the insulating winding, designed for "zero" and phase. It connects to the fan.
In a convenient place, a switch is installed to start the equipment in operation.
Voltage is applied to the network and the correct connection is checked, as well as the operation of the equipment.

Attention! The main link of forced air exchange is the ventilation unit. You need to buy it according to the calculated parameters with a passport and a manufacturer's warranty.

Check valve in the ventilation system

With incorrectly selected equipment or inaccurate calculations, the ventilation system does not work efficiently enough. As a result, the effect of reverse ventilation is observed. The exhaust air is blown back into the bathroom or toilet. Installing a check valve solves this problem by shutting off the return flow.

The choice of device depends on the type of ventilation system. With a vertical arrangement of the channel, air flows move along it. To block them, a horizontal valve is installed. In the case of longitudinal installation of the air duct, the cut-off piece is mounted vertically.

Some notes on the arrangement of ventilation in the bathroom and bathroom

The fan is bought according to the estimated performance. Its increased power "eats" expensive electricity without increasing the efficiency of the process.
You can automate air exchange in a bathroom or bathroom using a timer. Regardless of the presence or absence of the owners in the house, it will maintain the specified mode, periodically turning the system on and off.

Thus, in a private house, ventilation in rooms with high air humidity, the release of unpleasant odors is definitely needed. Another thing is how it will be organized. Often, along with forced air exchange, natural aeration is used (open window, door, etc.). Of the existing methods, you can always choose the best option and do it yourself to create comfortable living conditions.