How to make a cellar with your own hands in the country: types and proper design. DIY cellar at the dacha (56 photos): materials, steps How to make a small cellar

After the harvest is completed, the summer resident is faced with the problem of where to store his supplies. Vegetables will not last long in an apartment or garage.

It would be good if the dacha was purchased already with a cellar. But if it doesn’t exist, then you’ll either have to hire a crew or do it yourself. There is nothing difficult about the work, you can do it yourself. The main thing is to do this in advance, before the harvest arrives. Otherwise, in a hurry, you can make a lot of mistakes.

Types

There are three types of cellars:

ground;
recessed;
semi-recessed.

First you need to determine the depth of groundwater. This is especially true when building a recessed and semi-recessed cellar.

One method requires a fresh egg, a piece of wool and a glass cover. This is a very old technique, which, nevertheless, is quite accurate. It is necessary to place a piece of wool on the ground in the place where you plan to build the cellar, and an egg on the wool. From above, all this is covered with a cap. The cap is left overnight. You should see the results in the morning.

It is believed that if both the egg and the wool contain dew, then groundwater is very close. It is not recommended to build in such a place. If the egg is dry and there is only dew on the fur, then the water is deep enough. And if both the wool and the egg are dry, then the place is simply perfect for construction, because there may be no water at all in such an area.

There are several types of soil:

sandy loam;
sandy;
loam;
clay;
peat;
quicksand.

Peat is one of the best views soil for embankment. It prevents food spoilage, especially when it comes to potatoes and other vegetables.

Quicksand is a very heaving soil that can cause a lot of trouble. It consists of sandy loam, loam or fine-grained sand. Usually, for construction in places with such soil, the soil is replaced by adding sand.

Sandy soil is excellent for building a foundation. Often such soil is used to reduce moisture and heaving.

Construction of a warehouse

A storage shed is a ground-based structure; it can be built anywhere, including in lowlands. Although, of course, it would be simply excellent to do it in a dry area.

The storage shed does not require depth, although some structures of this type are made slightly recessed. Logs for such a cellar must be treated, for example, with liquid bitumen. The main thing is that the coating protects the wood from moisture and mold. The bottom can be waterproofed if necessary.

First, the base of the storage shed is made.
After the base is ready, you need to build the structure itself, which should not be too high. By appearance it is more like a tent or hut.
The logs for the storage shed are being processed.
To protect the cellar, you need to install a sheathing.
It's time to figure out how to waterproof the cellar from above. To do this, it is necessary to lay roofing felt on the roof sheathing. This material will perfectly protect products.
An embankment is made on top of the roof. The material used is peat. This best type soil for such a purpose.

It’s interesting that a storage shed can generally blend into the terrain. After all, it is enough to plant the soil of the embankment with grass seeds or other plants for it to become overgrown.

How to make ventilation in a cellar of this type? For this purpose, there are special boxes in which ventilation can be regulated using a special mechanism - a valve. Each owner sets his own storage shed dimensions. Usually they do not exceed 3.5 m on the sides.

Semi-recessed

The advantage of a semi-buried cellar is that it is less demanding on the soil than a buried one. To equip it, it is enough to dig a pit about 1 meter deep. In some cases, 70–80 cm is enough.

The base is made of concrete or brick. Slag concrete is less often used for such purposes. Slag concrete can be harmful, so it is used only after treatment.
Much attention should be paid to waterproofing the bottom and walls of the cellar. To do this, you can use roofing felt, as well as clay and other coating materials.
A semi-buried cellar requires covering. It is usually made from slab.

Other types

There are many other varieties, although there are three main types. For example, an ordinary above-ground cellar can become a little different if you make a bund on top of it using peat. The same can be said about recessed structures.

It is imperative to conduct soil tests under the garage house so that there are no problems later. However, taking into account the fact that they most likely have already been carried out during the construction of the garage, this will not take much time. Even if there has been no research, the owner of the building is still more or less aware of the depth of groundwater.

Particular attention should be paid to the ventilation of the structure. It is usually done using special pipes. Such tubes serve as channels. According to one of them comes fresh air, and in another way - the spent one goes away.

Since the cellar under the garage is an underground building, more serious walls and waterproofing will be required here. In some cases, such structures are also made in wet soils. In this case, the walls are made of cement and covered with a thick layer insulating material. Do not forget that the soil should be “dried” with sand. This will allow the site to be at least partially separated from groundwater.

By the way, during construction it is necessary to install drainage systems. Moisture, one way or another, is still present in the areas. It can enter the structure in the form of precipitation, so a ditch and drainage system are necessary.

Video: features of cellar design

Photo

Schemes

Of course, you can make a basement with your own hands. But it is worth considering the fact that you will have to spend a lot of time and effort on this process. Time costs will be associated not only with direct construction, but also with studying all the nuances of arranging basements.

Naturally, there is no doubt that the basement is an extremely useful room in all respects. You can equip a workshop in it, make a sauna, billiards, and a gym. In addition, very often from basements and ground floors make additional living room, which is no less comfortable to be in than in other rooms of the house. Having made a spacious basement, you can turn two-story house almost three-story.

The main problem with arranging a basement arises at the stage of its construction. First of all, these are additional financial costs. The money will be used to purchase building materials, tools, etc. Those homeowners whose plot is located in an area with high level groundwater. In this case, it is better to seek help from professionals who will help you correctly calculate the amount of material used and the degree of waterproofing. To understand how to build a basement correctly, you need to have complete information about the type of soil in your area.

In general, the choice of the type of basement construction, like other technical solutions, will depend on two main factors:

Groundwater level in the area.
The owner wants to get a warm or cold room.

Since there are different ways to build a basement, you should collect as much available information as possible.

Excavation work before construction

Before you begin construction, you should accurately determine the size of the basement. They can be very different and depend on constructive solutions future home and the owner’s preferences.

When digging a pit, experts do not recommend deepening the basement into the ground to its full height. If, for example, the ceiling is located at a level of 50-100 cm above the ground, it will be possible to make small windows and vents. This will ensure a high level of comfort when staying in the basement and additional ventilation.

In addition to this, it would be correct to initial stage think about how the room will be insulated from moisture and temperature changes. The higher the basement is raised, the lower the possibility of contact between the base and walls and groundwater will be. When you build a basement yourself, you have the opportunity, if necessary, to deviate from the project and make additional insulating barriers.

Based on the above, taking into account the height of the overlap, as well as the thickness concrete base and a sand cushion, the pit must be dug to a depth of approximately 200-220 cm. Of course, on your own earthworks It’s difficult to do, so it’s better to hire a team of workers or an excavator.

Preparing a pit for construction.

Considering that it will take several days to build the basement, it is likely that it might rain. Because of this, the soil in the dug hole will liquefy, and its edges will slide, losing their strength characteristics. To prevent this from happening, you need to do the following: when you clean out the pit, make small slopes from the edges of the pit to its bottom. Next, dig small grooves around the perimeter with a slope in one direction. At the lowest point of the pit, make a pit into which all the rainwater. Very often, builders dig a barrel there, from which they then pump water. When constructing basements, it is very important to drain all excess moisture.

Once the pit is ready and cleaned, it is necessary to prepare the foundation. The bottom of the pit is filled with crushed stone. It is recommended to use fine-grained stone. The thickness of the resulting layer should be about 10-15 cm. This is followed by laying the same layer of sand, which must be thoroughly compacted. If possible, it is recommended to use vibrating plates for this. If not, you can compact it manually with a little dampening of the sand.

Any roll insulator is laid in several layers on the resulting base. There should be no joints (when using roofing felt, the joints are sealed with bitumen mastic). After this, the formwork necessary to form the cement floor is installed. There is no need to make high formwork - 20-30 cm is enough. If you plan to build a basement with heating for a one- or two-story house, then a heat insulator must be laid on the waterproofing layer. Extruded polystyrene foam boards are ideal. If you are not going to heat the basement, then laying insulation is not necessary (but in this case you will have to carefully insulate the ceiling).

Pouring the foundation and erecting walls

After the waterproofing and thermal insulation layers have been laid, it is necessary to install the reinforcement network in increments of 15-25 cm. The reinforcement is laid in two layers. If subsequently the walls are also planned to be made of concrete, then the ends of the reinforcement along the perimeter are bent upward. This is necessary in order to make it more convenient to bind to them in the future. reinforcement cage walls. If you are building a basement yourself, then at this stage you will still probably need to use the help of partners.

Once the reinforcement of the base is completed, you can begin pouring the solution. The thickness of the layer should be at least 20 cm. After pouring is completed, you need to wait some time (preferably 3-4 weeks) for the solution to dry. If the walls are also made of reinforced concrete, then the installation of formwork and tying of reinforcement can begin the next day after the foundation is ready.

As already noted, the walls basement It is also recommended to make it from reinforced concrete. If groundwater is below the base of the floor, then for the construction of walls when constructing basements, you can choose foam concrete blocks or red brick. After installing the walls, it is imperative to outside create a high-quality waterproofing layer.

Basement walls.

Insulation works

Waterproofing can be done by applying bitumen mastic or gluing a roll waterproofing material. A few days after waterproofing is installed, it is recommended to insulate the basement walls using extruded polystyrene foam boards. Simple polystyrene foam will absorb moisture, losing its characteristics. To avoid damage to the waterproofing layer, it is best to glue the insulation onto the same bitumen mastic. In areas of the wall where it protrudes above the ground level, it is important to correctly fix the insulation using special dowels.

Waterproofing and insulation of the basement from the outside.

It is necessary to install thermal insulation of walls in any case, regardless of whether the basement is heated or not, as well as one-story house or two-story. Construction of a basement always involves the creation of a small but high-quality layer of thermal insulation. A layer of insulation will protect the walls of the room from freezing. In addition, the insulation will protect the waterproofing layer from possible mechanical damage.

As soon as the wall insulation is completed, it is necessary to carry out backfill soil. When filling the free space on the outside of the walls, the soil must be thoroughly compacted. To protect the basement from rainwater, you need to make a blind area, under which you should also lay insulation.

Also, when building basements, it is necessary to provide for a good ventilation system.

Air exchange in the room

The issue of ventilation during the construction of basements is often very acute. This is due, first of all, to the fact that many owners underestimate the importance of constant ventilation of underground rooms. But a humid environment will form there, which is dangerous not only for the products, but also for the building structures.

Ventilation pipes.

The ventilation system can be forced or natural. Of course, in 90% of cases people choose natural ventilation, consisting of two pipes - supply and exhaust.

The supply pipe should be located at one end of the basement, the exhaust pipe at the other. The lower part of the supply pipe should be located at the base of the room, at a distance of approximately 20-30 cm, and the upper part should go outside. This approach will allow fresh cold air to periodically enter the room, cooling it and displacing warm air masses. When a basement is built on its own, often only one pipe is installed for ventilation, which is often not enough.

IN opposite end must be exhaust pipe, the lower part of which is located under the basement ceiling (at a distance of 20 cm), and upper part(ideally) should go to the roof. It is known that warm air rises upward, so warm air masses through this pipe will gradually leave the basement. This will ensure that there is no condensation.

What to do if the GWL is high?

When building basements, it is often the quality of waterproofing that plays a decisive role. This is especially important if the groundwater level is located above the base of the basement. Very often, when the GWL is really high, homeowners simply refuse to build a basement so as not to waste extra money, time and effort.

At high groundwater levels, moisture comes close to the room.

If the groundwater level is high, it is necessary to protect the basement in two directions:

Waterproofing the walls and floors of the room.
Decrease in groundwater level in the area.

In this case, the device helps very well drainage system, which will remove all excess moisture from the area. Of course, this will result in additional costs, but the effect of this system is impressive. Before making a basement, you should definitely provide for the possibility of drainage.

It is better to use double-sided insulation technology: outside and inside. It would also be useful to use membrane insulation, which is available in a variety on the market.

Construction of a basement is an important and responsible process that must be approached competently. If you doubt your abilities, then discuss all the nuances of arranging a basement with specialists. We must not forget that minor miscalculations in construction and the use of incorrect building materials can result in costly repairs in the future.

The cellar is one of the most necessary premises V household. If you build it correctly, then in the cellar you can store not only canned goods and fresh vegetables, but even meat, dairy and eggs.

Following the advice from the article, you can build a cellar with your own hands from scratch. We will tell you how to properly dig a pit, make walls, a floor and a roof in it, and also consider the main types of basements that can be used in the household.

Building a cellar with your own hands

Species

Construction stages

Additional work

What to consider?

Ground

Zemlyanoy

Semi-recessed

Wall-mounted

At the initial stage, a dry place with a low groundwater level is selected. After this, they begin digging a pit, erecting walls and pouring the floor. At the final stage, the ceiling is installed and ventilation is installed.

The interior must be waterproofed and supply and exhaust ventilation. This necessary condition to maintain the indoor microclimate.

During construction, the density of the soil and the level of groundwater are taken into account.

How to build a cellar with your own hands

A cellar under the house has certain advantages compared to free-standing buildings. Firstly, it can be done at the stage of building a house. Secondly, it is very convenient to use: you don’t need to go outside to store vegetables or take them out for consumption.

However, the construction of a storage facility also has some difficulties, which will be discussed below.

What is needed for construction

Before you make a basement under the house with your own hands, you need to take into account several features (Figure 1):

The pit must be deepened by at least one and a half meters. This will allow you to create the optimal temperature regime. If the room is less deep, the temperature in it will rise above +8 degrees, which negatively affects the storage of fresh vegetables.
It is imperative to determine the level of groundwater. As a rule, it is carried out at the stage of building the foundation of a house, but if you decide to build a storage facility in an existing building, you can determine the water level yourself. To do this, you need to dig a hole 2.5 meters deep and observe for a week how intensively it fills with water. Do it better in spring or after heavy rains in the fall, when the level underground water maximum.

Figure 1. Drawings and diagrams for building a basement with your own hands

If the water lies at a level of less than a meter, a basement cannot be built under the house. With an indicator of up to one and a half meters, it is possible to arrange a storage facility, but for this it is necessary to drain the soil and the room itself.

Note: It is best to deepen the room two meters or more. This will create a consistently low temperature suitable for storing vegetables and other foods.

A necessary step is also the selection of building materials. The floor can be made of earthen, plank or concrete, and the walls are best built from ceramic bricks, concrete blocks or stone. Use sand-lime bricks and cinder blocks are not recommended.

How to choose a place for a cellar

When constructing above-ground or semi-buried structures, you can choose almost any location on the site. The main thing is that there is no stagnation of water on it. If the basement is located under the house, the choice of location will be very limited.

When selecting a location for an underground storage facility, take into account:

Soil density and composition- it should be loose enough so that you can dig a pit yourself. If the house is located on rock, construction will have to be abandoned, since it will require the use of heavy equipment that physically cannot be driven inside the premises.
Groundwater height- key indicator. It is best that the floor of the storage facility is at least half a meter from the level of underground streams. If this condition is not met, the basement will begin to flood even if high-quality waterproofing is installed.
Login to the vault should be in a place convenient for you (Figure 2). For example, in the garage, hallway or next to the kitchen. It is better to cover the entrance from above with a hatch, and make a staircase for the entrance. How exactly you will go down inside must be determined at the stage of designing and digging a pit.

Figure 2. Arranging a hole to enter the cellar under the house

After procurement of materials and determination of the site, you can proceed directly to construction work.

How to make a cellar with your own hands

The construction of the basement is carried out in several stages, which should be carried out in a clear sequence. First of all, you need to determine the size of the storage. As a rule, a room of 5-8 square meters will be sufficient for home use.

However, it should be borne in mind that the pit should be approximately 60 cm larger on all sides. This space will be needed to build walls and lay a layer of waterproofing.

You can see the main stages of construction in the video.

Pit

The first stage is digging a pit. To do this, you will need standard tools: a shovel, a pick and a container for removing soil (Figure 3).

Note: To dig a pit, it is necessary to completely remove the floor in the room under which it will be located.

Figure 3. Digging a pit for underground storage

Traditionally, a pit is dug to a depth of 2.5 meters under the house. In the future, taking into account the floor and ceiling, the height of the room will decrease slightly, but it will still be enough even for a tall person.

If groundwater is close to the surface, it is advisable to additionally dig drainage well, in which condensation and excess water will accumulate.

Construction of walls

Walls in underground storage facilities are usually made of brick or foam concrete blocks. However, walls made of reinforced concrete. They are made like this (Figure 4):

A reinforcing mesh of rods with a cross section of 10-15 mm is installed around the perimeter. It is advisable to fasten them together not by welding, but with special hooks or pieces of wire.
Formwork can be made from any available materials, even from scraps of wood.
To fill the walls, high-strength concrete is used, adding a small amount of crushed stone to it. Filling is carried out in stages, 10-20 cm, carefully compacting each layer.

Figure 4. Construction of walls

The top of the fill should be at the level of the ceiling. It will take several weeks for the solution to completely dry and harden. Only after this can the formwork be removed.

Floor

Concrete floors are most often used in storage facilities, as they are better able to withstand groundwater than earthen floors. In addition, rodents and other pests will not be able to enter the room through such a floor.

The construction of a concrete floor is carried out in several stages(Figure 5):

At the bottom we make a sand cushion. The sand is moistened with water and compacted so that its layer is at least 20 cm. It must be absolutely flat so that the concrete floor does not begin to bend in the future.
After the sand, a layer of gravel is laid and it is also leveled and compacted.
Lay the next layer waterproofing material. You can use special polyethylene or regular roofing felt. This will help strengthen the concrete floor and protect the room as much as possible from water penetration.
Placed on waterproofing reinforcing mesh from rods of at least 5 mm and fill the structure with a layer of concrete of 10-15 cm.

Figure 5. How to make a floor in the cellar with your own hands

As with walls, concrete needs some time to dry and harden. Therefore, you cannot walk on it for the first few weeks.

Roof

Make a roof (or ceiling) for the cellar under ready home made from slabs is difficult, so they are often used for these purposes wooden beams, between which a layer of insulation is laid. This design allows you to protect the underground storage from heat penetration from the house.

The floor beams are hemmed from below with a continuous panel covered with a heat-insulating film. Between the beams lay insulation (glass wool, polystyrene foam or mineral wool). There is no need to skimp on thermal insulation: the thicker and more reliable the layer, the more stable the temperature in the storage will be. The insulation is re-coated with film on top and the structure is covered with boards, plywood or OSB.

The manhole cover is made according to the same principle, but it is better to make it two-layer, placing heat-insulating materials in the center.

Types of cellars

There are several types of cellars, each of which has certain advantages and disadvantages. For example, underground provides a stable storage temperature, but its construction requires certain skills. It is much easier to build above ground, and the building itself is suitable even for regions with close groundwater. However, in such structures it is more difficult to provide the necessary thermal insulation.

Main types of cellars

Types of basements differ in the degree to which the structure is buried in the soil. For example, a ground-based structure is a full-fledged building with a foundation slightly buried in the soil.

There are also underground cellars(subfloors), which are most often equipped for residential building or a garage. Semi-buried and earthen ones are similar in design. The only difference is the degree of penetration of the structure into the soil. For small plots The optimal ones would be wall-mounted buildings that are simply attached to the main building.

Ground

By ground cellar we mean small room or even a box with a layer of insulation.

It is not difficult to build it with your own hands, since they are small and require minimum costs materials and time. In addition, they are excellent for areas with high underground flows (Figure 6).

Note: It is best to build a ground structure in July, when the groundwater level is lowest.

Construction is carried out in the following sequence:

Select a dry area on a small hill. Top layer the vegetation is removed and a small depression is made in the soil (about 40-70 cm deep).
Bottom of the pit compacted and covered with a layer of drainage (coarse sand, expanded clay or broken brick). The layer of such material should be approximately 10 cm.
Above lay 15-20 cm of fatty clay, in which you need to place bricks at a minimum distance from each other. The side walls of the pit are strengthened in the same way.
Height of brick walls above the ground surface should reach 35 cm. This elevation acts as a foundation.
For walls First, a frame is mounted, which is sheathed with thick boards on both sides. Any available material is placed or filled in the center thermal insulation material(sawdust, crushed stone or mineral wool).

Figure 6. Drawing and photo of an above-ground cellar

The outer part of the walls is sheathed with dense material to prevent drafts inside the room. At the entrance, a vestibule with external and internal door. This will provide additional thermal insulation. For ventilation, a pipe is made, which is covered from the outside mosquito net. To prevent flooding, a blind area and several drainage ditches are made around the perimeter, and the roof is equipped with a gable roof and covered with any available roofing material.

Zemlyanoy

The design of an earthen basement is very simple, and it can be built from almost any available materials. As a rule, a dry site on an elevated site is chosen for construction, preferably with dense soil.

Note: Earthen cellars are excellent for storing potatoes, since the tubers practically do not sprout, do not dry out or wrinkle.

The construction of an earthen storage facility is carried out using the following technology(Figure 7):

They dig a pit with walls at a slight slope to prevent soil from falling out. If the site has sandy soil, the walls are reinforced with boards or other supports. In addition, this will extend the life of the premises and create a favorable microclimate inside the storage facility.
The floors are made of adobe by adding crushed bricks. The thickness of the floors should be 15 cm.
The ceiling is made of poles, covered with a clay mixture and earth on the outside. The thickness of the soil layer should be about 45 cm in order to protect vegetables not only from the summer heat, but also from the winter cold.
The gable roof is covered with light natural material(for example, branches or straw). It is better to lower the roof slopes to the ground. At severe frosts it can be additionally insulated.

Figure 7. Drawing of an earthen cellar

It is better to place shelving inside an earthen cellar on both sides of the passage for ease of use of the room.

Semi-recessed

This type of storage facility is perfect for areas with high groundwater levels, since its floor is no deeper than one and a half meters from the ground surface (Figure 8).

To build a semi-buried basement with your own hands, you dig a shallow pit, then make a low foundation, and build the walls from concrete, brick or stone.

Figure 8. Drawings for the construction of a semi-buried cellar

The ceiling is made from slab mixed with clay. This will protect interior space from moisture penetration and temperature fluctuations. Additionally, the roof can be covered with roofing felt, and thermal insulation material can be applied to the walls.

Wall-mounted

The main advantage of a wall-mounted cellar is that it saves space on the site. In addition, there is no need to specifically choose a dry place for it, since the building is being built close to the house (Figure 9).

Figure 9. Drawing of a wall cellar

How to build a surface cellar next to a house or other building? Any materials can be used, but they must be treated with hot bitumen for waterproofing. A blind area is made around the perimeter and installed drainpipes to remove moisture, and the roof is covered with rolled material.

This is the most simple design cellar, which can be easily done with your own hands from scrap materials. However, if you plan to use such storage long time, it is better to use high-quality brick, concrete and high-quality thermal insulation.

More useful information You will learn about the construction of dry cellars from the video.

A do-it-yourself cellar at the dacha is a good opportunity to ensure long-term, high-quality storage of food. And since, if the cellar is built correctly, it all year round The same temperature is consistently maintained; it is simply indispensable for storing not only canned goods and pickles, but also vegetables and fruits. Cellar in the country - absolutely necessary thing for those who have a vegetable garden or orchard at their dacha.

Cellar in the country: main types

Despite design features construction, cellars can be divided into three types (diagrams of cellar construction, depending on the type, are shown in Fig. 1):

ground - arranged in the case of a very high (0.5 m) groundwater level. It could be simply an insulated box made of wood, a wall cellar (attached to the main wall, in fact - another room, only with an embankment of earth, the diagram is shown in Fig. 2) or a brick storage with embankment (Fig. 3)

semi-buried cellar– arranged in places where the groundwater level is located within 1.5-2 m from the ground surface. A diagram of a semi-buried cellar is shown in Fig. 4.

To build it, you will need to dig a pit 0.8-1 m deep. The base is erected from brick or concrete, raising the walls to a height of 2-2.2 m. The ceiling is made of wood, concrete or slate. The entire structure is sprinkled with soil on top. The entrance to such a cellar is arranged at ground level, with a vestibule, a staircase and a second, necessarily insulated, the door. In principle, all construction operations, including waterproofing, ventilation and insulation, are similar to those carried out during the construction of a deep basement.

deep cellar– the most common type, it can be either separate (having its own cellar, Fig. 5) or located under the house, summer kitchen or a garage. Therefore, we will consider in detail below how to build a cellar with your own hands at the dacha.

For the construction of a semi-recessed, and especially a recessed cellar, it is very important to accurately determine the location of construction, and more precisely, to determine the level of groundwater. To do this, you can use the help of professionals (expensive, but reliable), or you can try folk method, which gives a fairly accurate result. To do this you will need a glass cap, a piece of wool and a fresh egg. In the place where you planned to build a cellar, place a piece of wool on the ground, an egg on top of it and cover them with a glass cap. Leave this “construction” overnight, and evaluate the results in the morning:

wool and egg in dew– the level of groundwater is insignificant, here you will have to limit yourself to a ground cellar

there is dew on the wool and the egg is dry– groundwater lies deep enough for the construction of a semi-buried cellar
dry egg and wool- an excellent place to build a deep cellar.

Advice! The best time to build a cellar is in the summer, when the groundwater level is lowest.

If the construction of a cellar is planned in a house (more precisely, under the house), then it is better to place it under non-residential (unheated) premises, ideally under a veranda (the temperature there is lower than in the rest of the house, it is easier to arrange ventilation, and in winter the veranda will protect from frost). If the layout of the house allows you to arrange a cellar only in the heated part of the building, additional thermal insulation of the ceiling will be required (for example, lay foam plastic 5 cm thick on the ceiling) and good ventilation, otherwise provide optimal mode food storage is impossible.

After this, you can begin the practical part of construction.

Digging a pit

The construction of a cellar at the dacha with your own hands begins with marking the foundation pit, while adding from 0.5 to 1 m to the planned dimensions - this will make it easier to waterproof the cellar. First remove the top fertile layer soil - it can later be used to create flower beds, terraces, alpine slides etc. After this, the pit itself is dug (Fig. 6).

Advice! To prevent the earth from crumbling down and the soil to hold stronger, the walls of the pit are made not vertical, but with a slight slope, and the steepness of the slope is selected depending on the type of soil (the harder it is, the smaller the slope).

To make sure that water is not seeping through the walls somewhere, the pit is allowed to stand for some time. Places where water has appeared are sealed with so-called “clay tampons” - they dig out a ditch (up to 50 cm deep) and trample it with crumpled fat clay, while compacting it tightly.

Cellar base

To obtain the foundation, the bottom of the pit is leveled and compacted, after which sand and gravel cushion and pour the first layer of concrete 5-10 cm thick. Ruberoid is laid on top of the first layer in 2-3 layers or melted bitumen is poured (waterproofing layer, Fig. 7), after which they are concreted again, pouring a layer 10-15 cm thick. If you are building brick walls (half a brick thick), then this base will be quite enough as a foundation. If the walls are made of concrete blocks or some walls of the cellar will be continued as load-bearing walls home, you will need to pour a separate foundation.

Walling

For the construction of cellar walls you can use different material. Most often, bricks, concrete blocks are used for this (Fig. 8, most often they are used to build load-bearing walls of a house on them), rubble, and cinder blocks (Fig. 9). Another option is pouring a monolithic concrete walls, in this case, the walls can be integral with the base, for which purpose the reinforcement for the walls is initially fixed in it (Fig. 10), then the formwork is installed and the mortar is poured (Fig. 11).

Floor installation

The choice of material for flooring is largely determined by what loads it will have to withstand during further operation. It can be produced:

wood - beams or logs on which boards or beams are laid on top. Because in the cellar there is always high humidity, All wooden elements must be treated with an antiseptic

metal beams on which they can be laid concrete slabs. In this case, it is necessary to especially carefully process and seal the seams (joints of plates)
monolithic concrete floor– poured in the same way as monolithic walls

Ladder

The simplest, but very inconvenient option is ladder, welded from pipes or knocked down from wood. It is advisable to include in the project a stationary staircase made of iron, concrete or metal; it is both more convenient and safer to use:

the minimum width is 30-40 cm, but better order 50-60 cm, it will be convenient to climb

if you plan to lower heavy, large-sized loads into the cellar that need to be carried together, then the width of the stairs should be at least 80 cm

the maximum permissible slope is 75 degrees, but such a staircase will be within the capabilities of the young and energetic. To make the stairs comfortable, but not take up much space, the optimal slope is 45 degrees - it’s quite easy to climb (the flight is not very long) even with a load in your hands
step height – 15 – 20 cm, width – 25-30 cm

Waterproofing basement walls

To ensure waterproofness, concrete and brick walls additionally plastered with cement mortar. After the layer has completely dried plaster On the outside of the wall, bitumen mastic is applied, onto which roofing felt is glued (Fig. 11), after which the soil is backfilled.

Advice! To improve waterproofing, instead of backfilling with soil, you can do clay castle. To do this, clay is mixed with water and coarse sand until a plastic mass resembling plasticine is formed. The resulting mass is placed in a pit between the walls and the ground, compacting it very tightly.

Ventilation device

Properly organized natural ventilation will avoid excessive humidity and dampness, maintaining optimal temperature and humidity conditions in the cellar. To do this, two pipes are installed in the cellar (metal, ceramic, asbestos-cement, plank, etc.):

exhaust - installed at the top, almost under the ceiling, and it must be insulated

supply air – located at a height of 50-60 cm from the floor

To ensure maximum air exchange, the pipes should be located as far apart as possible. The cross-section of the pipe is selected in accordance with the size of the cellar, for example, for normal ventilation of a cellar with an area of 8 m2 and a height of 2 m, a pipe with a cross-section of 12X12 cm is required. The main signs of impaired ventilation: the appearance of condensation on the ceiling, dampness, signs of mold, musty, bad air. Figure 12 shows a diagram of the organization of ventilation for a separate cellar

Figure 13 shows a diagram of the organization of ventilation for the cellar in the basement of the house.

It is worth paying attention that it is necessary to install a grill on the supply pipe, which will prevent rodents from entering the cellar.

Advice! If natural ventilation is not enough; to combat excess moisture, you can install boxes with substances that actively absorb moisture (quicklime, salt).

The main purpose of the cellar is to store canned goods, vegetables and fruits. But not every cellar can guarantee the shelf life of food. Therefore, it is worth paying attention to the construction of your subfloor. special attention. The main thing is to decide for what purposes it is needed.

In a cellar with a temperature of -7 degrees, you can store various products for about one year. Therefore, many housewives value and use such premises for long-term storage of vegetables and fruits. After all, its main advantage over a refrigerator is capacity.

Such construction is a serious step, so the work must be based on diagrams and drawings of the cellars. To understand which option is most suitable, you can look at the photo of the cellar. There are many options on the Internet. The picture will show a finished layout of the building, all that remains is to match it.

What is important during construction?

When building a cellar with your own hands, you should adhere to the following recommendations:

the use of wood materials requires pre-treatment by special means. This procedure protects the room from moisture;
summer - perfect time for installing a cellar, since groundwater is at a low level;
It is advisable to immediately equip a ventilation system;
It is best to build two doors inside the storage room. This will allow you to maintain the correct temperature;
For optimal temperature It is recommended to provide thermal insulation;
think about all the equipment in advance so as not to delay it later construction work due to their absence.

Instructions on how to make a cellar

Place

It is necessary to choose a place for the future cellar. Dry, elevated areas are best suited; in the future there will be no need to install waterproofing. In this case, there is no risk of moisture ingress. The choice of depth depends on the desire of the owner, approximately 2-3 meters.

A certain distance should be ensured between the base of the cellar and groundwater(50 cm), otherwise flooding may occur.

Material

The construction of a cellar should be approached responsibly, taking into account all the nuances, otherwise troubles are inevitable. Another main point is the choice of material for construction.

Natural stone, wood, red brick and others are suitable for such purposes. Wood lining is required when building an earthen cellar. Metal structures It is best to avoid, as they are picky about climatic conditions.

Ventilation

This element is necessary to combat moisture and gas accumulation. Most often a pipe is used that connects inner part and the surface of the cellar. But you can install two pipes that will serve as an exhaust hood.

Advantages

A cellar under the house, built with your own hands, has many advantages:

site saving;
ease of use. Especially in winter time, you can quickly go down and just as quickly go up;
waterproofing and underground drainage help you forget about dampness;

Characteristics of the above-ground cellar

When building an above-ground cellar, it is important to consider the soil level. Such a room is built on the surface of the earth, as opposed to underground structures. The above-ground cellar occupies less space, does not flood, operates all year round, has an impressive size and is very convenient to use.

However, such an extension requires hydraulic engineering work. The storage needs maintenance: periodic cleaning and disinfection.

There is a ground cellar three types: above ground, semi-buried, buried. You can build such rooms with your own hands using bricks, logs or concrete.

Features of building a wine cellar

Wine drinks require special storage, because this affects their taste characteristics. Construction wine cellar very popular.

In such a room it is important to provide a thermal insulation system. Closed-porous materials are ideal for building a wine cellar. They are responsible for maintaining temperature.

The entrance door should be well sealed. Excessive air penetration will negatively affect the quality of the wine. Any materials are suitable for the floor, as long as they do not emit harmful chemical elements.

Drink bottles are stored horizontally and it is not recommended to move them. All necessary equipment there must be good quality using natural materials.