How is parquet board attached to the floor. How to lay a parquet board: methods and technology for the correct laying of a parquet board. Substrate surface preparation for laying

For those who want to emphasize their status, wealth and good taste, when choosing floor covering you should pay attention to the parquet. It has high reliability, environmental friendliness, good wear resistance and excellent appearance. The process of laying parquet has always been one of the most complex types works, but with the advent of massive parquet boards, everything has become much easier. Laying a parquet board is a fairly simple matter, and you can do it yourself, the main thing is to be able to use the tool and follow certain rules and recommendations.

There are two types of parquet board on the market today: solid parquet board and multilayer parquet board. They differ in the way they are produced.

Massive parquet board made from a single piece of wood with a groove and a ridge on the ends. For its manufacture, both deciduous and coniferous woods are used.

The multilayer parquet board consists of different breeds wood

It is created by combining several types of wood with different characteristics, thereby achieving exceptional performance characteristics boards. For the first layer of lamellas, hard and valuable types of wood are used. It is from the first layer that the appearance and strength of the parquet board will depend. The second layer of lamellas is located perpendicular to the first, and softwood is taken for it. This layer is used as a connecting element for both this panel and neighboring ones. The third layer is made of plywood or pine or spruce lamellas up to 4 mm thick.

In addition, the parquet board is sold already coated at the factory and impregnated against fungi and decay. Regardless of the type of parquet board, its durability and strength are directly affected by compliance with the technology of production, storage and installation. And if on manufacturing process and storage conditions cannot be influenced, then the laying process can be controlled, but it is better to do it yourself.

The specifics of laying parquet boards

To create a strong and durable flooring from a parquet board, skill in using a tool will not be enough. If during the work you do not adhere to the laying technology, reliable and beautiful parquet will not work. Therefore, before laying the parquet board, it is necessary to perform a series of preparatory work and adhere to certain technological requirements.

First of all, what you should pay attention to is the base on which the parquet board will be laid. It should be smooth, durable, without cracks, depressions and drops. The maximum allowable height difference is 2 mm per 1 running meter. If the base is damaged, it should be repaired or rebuilt.

Second important point One thing to pay attention to is the level of humidity in the room. The parquet board does not tolerate high humidity, so its laying in the bathroom, toilet or kitchen is undesirable.

Thirdly, after the purchase and delivery of the parquet board, it must be allowed to mature indoors for 48 hours. And only after the board "gets used" to the microclimate of the room, you can start laying it.

Fourthly, in order to get a really strong and durable coating, during laying in the room, it is necessary to observe a certain level of humidity, within 35-65%, and a temperature not lower than +18 ° C.

Scheme of laying parquet board

Another requirement for laying parquet boards is the presence of a substrate and waterproofing, regardless of the type of base and room. The parquet board itself should be laid in the direction of the light rays to hide the shadows at the joints.

Substrate preparation for laying

Before laying the parquet board, the surface is leveled with a self-levelling compound.

Parquet boards can be installed on both concrete and wooden bases. The main requirements for it are strength, reliability and Smooth surface. Therefore, before laying, it is necessary to revise the base and, if necessary, carry out work to repair it.

Preparing the wood floor

If the parquet board will be laid on a wooden floor, it should be checked for dips, squeaks and differences between the floorboards. If the floor is in excellent condition, but there are small differences and gaps between the floorboards, then it needs to be leveled. To do this, the surface can be cycled and puttied, then sanded and proceed to further laying work. If the floorboards creak or dangle a little, they can be fixed to the joists with self-tapping screws, and the surface can be scraped and puttied. But if the wooden floor fails, you will have to disassemble it to the lag, align or partially replace them, and then reassemble the entire structure.

Preparing a rough concrete base

With a concrete base, the situation is somewhat simpler. Its surface should be checked for cracks, drops or depressions. If present, the surface should be cleaned of debris, filled with self-levelling compound and allowed to dry for several days. But if the concrete cracked, turned into dust and staggers in places, then you will have to use a puncher to remove the old concrete screed to the base and fill in a new one. And only after the concrete has dried, you can start laying the parquet board.

How to properly lay parquet board

Before laying a parquet board, it is necessary to decide on the method of laying it. There are only two of them - glue and glueless (floating).

Gluing the parquet board to the base creates a monolithic structure

The adhesive method of laying allows you to create a durable and reliable coating in rooms with a large area. The process itself is quite laborious and requires heightened attention and accuracy of work. In addition, if it becomes necessary to replace one panel, you will have to tinker a lot and, possibly, replace several neighboring panels at once. The glueless method is the simplest and fastest. The panels themselves are interconnected into a lock and laid on a substrate, while the lock connection is sometimes glued.

Installation of parquet board is carried out as follows:

on a concrete or wooden base we lay waterproofing from a polyethylene film. We lay the film sheets with an overlap (15 - 20 cm) and glue them together with adhesive tape. We also make an overlap of 10 - 15 cm on the walls and glue it with tape;

on top of the film we lay the substrate. For these purposes, you can use foamed polyethylene, polystyrene or cork. Polyethylene foam and cork are sold in rolls, and polystyrene in the form of mats. We spread the sheets of foamed polyethylene and cork along the entire length of the room and glue it with adhesive tape. We lay the polystyrene mats end-to-end and “out of the way”, glue the joints with adhesive tape. If the plans are to create an absolutely eco-friendly floor covering, then cork should be used as a substrate.

The adhesive way of laying a parquet board requires a base made of moisture-resistant plywood

Important! If it is planned to glue the method of laying the parquet board, then waterproof plywood is used as the substrate. Its sheets are laid directly on the base and fixed with self-tapping screws. We start laying from the walls, moving towards the middle of the room so that the last row of sheets lies between the two previously laid.

now it is necessary to small calculations the number of rows of parquet boards. If it becomes necessary to cut the last row, and its width is less than 5 cm, then you will have to make the first and last row of the same width;

The first row of parquet boards is laid with a spike against the wall (the spike is cut beforehand)

we lay the panels of the first row with a spike to the wall;

Important! For a tighter fit, the spike on the longitudinal side of the panels must be cut off.

since wood tends to expand or shrink depending on the seasonal humidity level, it is necessary to leave a gap of 10 - 15 cm between the wall and the parquet board. In order to maintain this gap during laying, we insert special pegs. We put three pegs on the longitudinal side of one panel, and two on the narrow one;

For a snug fit, we finish the parquet boards with a hammer

we connect the panels of the first row together into a lock. To do this, we insert each next panel at a slight angle with a spike into the groove of the previous one and finish it off with a hammer through a wooden block for a snug fit;

In addition to gluing the parquet board to the base, we fix it with pneumatic nails into the groove

Important! If we use the adhesive laying method, then before laying each new panel, apply glue to the place of its laying and level it with a notched trowel. We additionally fix the panels with pneumatic nails in an inconspicuous place - inside the groove. It is necessary to ensure that parquet panels at narrow joints do not form ledges or bevels.

For greater strength, the laying of the parquet board must be done "in a row"

In order for the parquet to be a reliable and durable floor covering, it should be laid "in a row". Therefore, we begin to lay the second row with a shorter board. To do this, you will have to cut the board so that it is 2/3 of the normal length;

the second row of panels is connected to each other in the same way as the first, then the entire row moves up to the first and connects. We insert the panels of the second row at a slight angle into the groove of the first row and, for a tighter fit, finish the panels with a hammer through the bar. We do this gradually, first the first panel, then the second, and so on until the end;

Important! The last panels in each row should be finished with a clamp. With the adhesive laying method, the second row is laid by tying. To do this, glue is applied to the place of laying and immediately the parquet panel is laid, which is hammered, and only after that the next one is laid. We fix the second row of panels additionally in the same way as the first.

we begin to lay the third row of panels from the board, the length of which is 1/3 of the normal one. After that, laying is carried out according to the algorithm of the first and second rows;

we begin laying the fourth row from the whole panel. We lay each next row, completely repeating the above-described laying algorithm for the first four rows;

when laying a parquet board near doorways, it is necessary to make cutouts in the board so that it fits snugly against the door frame posts;

special attention must be paid to places in the room where the riser of heating pipes passes. To make laying in such places, it is necessary to mark the position of the pipes on the parquet board. After that, drill a hole for the pipe with a diameter of 2 mm larger than the pipe itself, and cut off part of the board exactly in the middle of the hole. Now we put in place most of the board, fix it. Apply glue to the ends of the cut piece and put it in place. Around the pipe we lay a special plug of the same color as the parquet;

when the parquet board is laid over the entire area of the room, we take out the spacer pegs between the wall and the first row;

The final stage of work on laying parquet boards is the installation of skirting boards. The plinth itself is attached to special fasteners- kleimer. To install the skirting board, first cut off the protruding part of the substrate and waterproofing with a knife. Then we install the first kleimers at a distance of 15 - 20 cm from the corners, we install the next kleimers in increments of 40 - 50 cm. The kleimers for the plinth themselves are attached to the wall with dowels and self-tapping screws.

Important! If glue was used during the laying process, it is necessary to let it dry for a day, after which the floor covering from the parquet board will be ready for use.

Parquet board and "warm floor"

The parquet board itself is good enough thermal insulation material In addition, the substrate provides additional thermal insulation. But if there is a need for additional heating, then the parquet board can be laid on the "warm floor" system. The main thing to consider is the type of "warm floor". It should be water heated, but not electric. The fact is that "warm floors" with electric heating picking up too fast high temperature, and as a result, the locking joint of the parquet board begins to crack from a sharp temperature drop.

Also, before starting the laying process, it is necessary to turn off the system in advance and allow the floors to cool to room temperature, and only then start laying. Upon completion of all work on the installation of the parquet board, the "warm floor" system can be turned on no earlier than after 7 days, and the temperature can be raised to the previous level gradually, 2-3 degrees per day. In addition, in order for the floor from the parquet board to “not lead”, the temperature over the entire surface must be the same. If the "warm floor" system is installed in all rooms, it is necessary to make sure that the parquet floor ends in the doorways in each room.

The parquet board served as an alternative classic parquet, which made it possible to create beautiful and natural floors on their own, very significantly saving on the services of hired craftsmen. But like any natural material, parquet board requires careful work and compliance with all standards, requirements and recommendations of the manufacturer, following which you can create a reliable and durable floor covering.

Hardwood flooring is a popular floor covering that you can install yourself if you choose the right one. necessary materials and spend some time learning about existing styling methods. Today we will talk about the parquet board and common technologies for its installation.

Parquet board - characteristics and design features

The first prototype of a modern parquet board appeared on the market in 1941, when Sweden came up with a way to replace an expensive block parquet more affordable board. Initially, the board was two-layer, but after 5 years three-layer boards appeared on the market. facing materials which have survived to this day almost unchanged.

Currently, parquet boards are produced with various lacquer and oil coatings. Such facing materials allow, with relatively small financial investments attractively and aesthetically decorate the floor in an apartment or a private house. On the market, they are presented in the widest range of colors, textures and technical characteristics, so that the cladding can be chosen for almost any interior.

A modern board is a three-layer shield made of natural wood, up to 2.6 m long, 13 mm thick and 139–210 mm wide. Specifications finishes vary by manufacturer. The top layer of wood is always covered with protective oil or varnish mixtures, which not only prolong the life of the cladding, but also make the board as attractive as possible.

The bottom layer of the finishing material is made of spruce veneer 2–4 mm thick. It acts as a stabilizer, prevents deformation of other layers and protects them from negative impacts. The middle layer has a thickness of 8 mm, it is made of pine planks up to 30 mm wide, which are laid out across the entire width of the product. The top or front layer is lamellas with a thickness of 5 mm or more, made of reliable wood of expensive species. The slats are laid along the entire length of the board and are securely fixed to the middle layer with glue. The top layer provides the parquet board with its excellent visual characteristics and long service life.

The top layer of the cladding is subjected to grinding and additionally treated with protective mixtures. During operation, the board can be re-sanded and re-treated with varnish or oil compositions. Since the material allows at least three grindings and re-coatings, the board can serve the owner of the house for several decades. The fibers of the layers are arranged perpendicular to each other, so that the floor covering is not subject to deformation due to changes in humidity and ambient temperature.

Laying a parquet board without much difficulty can be done independently, since this material has a tongue and groove locking system.

3 styling methods - which one to choose for yourself?

Before buying finishing material, you need to understand existing ways its installation. There are three options for fixing parquet panels on the floor surface:

1. On glue.
2. Floating method.
3. On the logs.

All three mounting options have their own unique features, advantages and disadvantages. The most common method is floating installation, but it is only suitable if parquet slabs with a thickness of no more than 14 mm are installed. The main advantage of the floating method lies in its simplicity - even people who do not have any experience in working with facing materials can easily perform laying, and the floor can be safely operated immediately after the repair is completed.

The adhesive installation method involves fixing the boards on the base with passing gluing of the facing layer elements together. This method usually used when installing dies, the thickness of which is more than 14 mm. The disadvantages of installing on glue include laboriousness installation work, as well as additional expenses for the purchase of adhesives.

The mechanical installation method is fixing the boards with self-tapping screws on wooden base or on the lags. It is usually used for mounting panels with a thickness of more than 20 mm and involves fastening with self-tapping screws that are screwed into the groove of the board at a certain angle. That is, it is necessary to choose the method of installing the board not only taking into account personal preferences and capabilities, but also depending on the thickness of the facing materials used.

How to prepare the base for the installation of facing materials

The procedure for installing the coating will largely depend on the condition of the subfloor. Usually, the preparation of the base includes three stages of work. First, the floor is restored, then adjustments and cleaning are carried out, after which it is already possible to proceed directly to the installation.

First, consider the procedure for preparing for facing wooden floor. First of all, it is necessary to assess the condition of the foundation. If the floor is new, does not have significant defects and significant differences in height, and the boards are not infected with fungus and mold, then the coating does not need to be restored. If you need to veneer the old floor, then it will almost certainly need to be repaired. Typically, wood floor repairs involve replacing individual damaged planks.

If repairs can often be dispensed with, then adjustment of the base before facing is almost always required. Most often at wood flooring there are deflections of boards, knots and cracks. In the presence of deflections individual elements it is necessary to strengthen, knots are removed by grinding, and cracks are closed with improvised means. It is very important to check the surface for evenness before installing the finish cladding. If the base is curved, then before laying the board it will have to be treated with sanding equipment or puttied. After these adjustments, it remains only to carry out a thorough cleaning of the premises.

If installation is planned parquet materials on the concrete base, then the procedure for its preparation, most likely, will require a minimum of effort. The concrete floor should first be inspected for cracks, bumps, potholes and areas of brittle concrete where it crumbles. Found defects must be eliminated. The easiest way to do this is with a self-levelling compound. If the floor is in very poor condition, it will be easier to dismantle the old coating and pour in a new screed, which will definitely be even and strong enough for finishing.

Regardless of the installation method chosen, it is best to lay the parquet board on a layer of a special substrate. The substrate between the rough coating and the final facing performs a number of important functions:

1. Smoothes minor unevenness of the base.
2. Improves the sound and heat insulation characteristics of the cladding.
3. Reduces the chance of moisture getting into the wood finish.
4. Evenly distributes the load on all elements of the cladding.
5. In general, prolongs the life of the finish.

Usually foamed polyethylene is used as a substrate, although today substrates are very popular with owners. duplex, layers of foil materials, polystyrene and cork.

Step-by-step instructions for installing on glue - do it together

Adhesive installation is a rather complicated and labor-intensive way of laying a floor covering. Modern adhesives harden very quickly, so no mistakes should be made during installation, because it will be very difficult to fix them. Installation on glue involves the installation of cladding plates directly on the base, so the floor must be perfectly flat and clean.

Lay the board directly on concrete pavement not recommended as the floor will be very cold in this case. It is better to lay moisture-resistant plywood on the surface first. Plywood is cut into squares with a length of one side from 60 to 80 cm. The sheets are first glued to concrete (glue is smeared both on the floor and on plywood sheets), after which they are additionally fixed with dowels. Between individual plywood sheets there should be a gap of 3–5 mm so that they do not deform during thermal expansion. It will be possible to start further installation after 2-3 days from the moment the plywood is fixed, so that the glue has time to dry completely. After drying, the surface is sanded to remove adhesive residue, burrs and possible irregularities.

Now you can attach the parquet board to the plywood. To do this, we recommend using a two-component polyurethane adhesive, mix it immediately before use. The first board is attached near one of the walls. We carefully coat it with glue and press it to the base so that its groove is directed towards the opposite wall, and there is a gap of about 1–1.5 cm between it and the nearest wall. In order not to make a mistake, first place pegs or thin bars near the wall, which can be removed after installation.

The first board must be fixed more tightly on the base, for this we fasten it to the plywood with self-tapping screws. We screw the self-tapping screws into the front side in places where the skirting boards will be installed after installation. Then you need to coat the second board with glue and insert its spike into the groove of the first cladding element, and after that we knock the second board so that it connects as tightly as possible with the first. Thus, we install all the boards of the row to the wall. If necessary, we cut the last board along, and after installation we fix it with self-tapping screws, like the first one. Each subsequent row is also mounted, difficulties may arise only with the last row, which may have to be cut to length.

Floating method - simple and fast

Floating laying technology is rightfully considered the simplest and fastest. It involves fixing facing materials in a dry way using the provided locking system, without glue and self-tapping screws. Before starting laying, the lining must be brought into the room and left there for two days. After that, a special substrate is laid on the floor, which protects the parquet from excess moisture.

First, the first board of the first row is laid with a ridge against the wall. Then the second board of the first row is inserted into the lock of the first board until a characteristic click and is securely fixed by several blows with a special hammer. Laying continues until you reach the wall, at the wall the board is usually cut lengthwise so that there is a gap of 10 mm between it and the wall. After that, we proceed to the installation of the next row of cladding.

To increase the reliability of fixation, the ends of the boards can be pre-lubricated with glue. On the one hand, such a connection will be more reliable, but on the other hand, it will deprive the floating installation method of the main advantage, which consists in the possibility, if necessary, to perform a simple repair of the floor through its partial disassembly and replacement of damaged elements.

Features of mounting the cladding on the logs

Laying the finish on the logs is much more difficult than mounting in a floating way. First you need to carry out the installation of the crate, which is made of wooden bars. For mounting the log, bars with a cross section of 50–100 mm are used. A layer of waterproofing is laid on the concrete base, the insulation strips are interconnected with adhesive tape. The waterproofing should go onto the walls to a height of about 20 cm. The first log is laid on the waterproofing along the length of the wall and with a distance of no more than 5 cm from the wall. Logs are laid along all walls in the same way, and then they are connected and leveled. Smaller lags are laid between them, which should form squares. The distance between individual bars should be no more than 35–40 cm.

After checking and leveling the lag, they are fixed on the base with dowels. Many experts recommend filling the empty space between the lags with sand so that the parquet does not sag, if you don’t want to use sand, you can simply install the bars at a smaller distance from each other, for example, in increments of 25 cm.

Now you can start installing the board. The first workpiece is placed with a comb to the wall at a distance of 10 mm and fixed on the logs with nails, hammering them into the lower base of the board at an angle of 45 °. Hats must be sunk into the board with a doboynik. next board inserted into the lock of the previous one and snapped into place, after which they are fixed with nails on the logs. The boards should fit snugly against each other, the allowable gap is no more than 0.5 cm. The last board is cut in width so that there is a gap of at least 1 cm between it and the wall. After that, the subsequent rows of cladding are installed using the same technology.

"Warm floor" and parquet board - is it possible to combine?

The parquet board is different good performance sound and heat insulation, however, you can make living in the premises even more comfortable if you install a heating system such as "warm floor". However, not all heating systems are suitable for installation under wooden cladding. Professionals believe that it is allowed to install a water-heated floor, but from using electrical systems must be discarded, as they create too high a temperature, the effect of which on the facing materials can lead to their premature damage, cracking and other defects.

Installation of the cladding must be carried out on top of the disconnected and completely cooled heating system. After completion of installation work, turning on the heating is possible no earlier than after 2-3 days. After this time, you can gradually turn on the heating, but at the minimum temperature, increasing it by several degrees daily until it reaches the desired level.

It is very important to pay attention to allowable temperature exposure to the cladding before purchasing it. Many types of parquet boards can withstand contact with a temperature of no more than 25-27 degrees. Choose those finishing materials that can withstand the temperature effects created by the heating system installed in your home.

It would seem that due to the impressive size of the parquet board, its laying is much easier than parquet or laminate. This is not entirely true. This material, which has a pronounced layered structure, can easily fail even with minor violations of its laying technology. We have to reckon with the fact that this process is not easy, there are plenty of subtleties and nuances in it. Before the beginning independent work not only should the instructions for laying parquet boards from the manufacturer be thoroughly studied, but also the experience and advice of those who have professionally mastered this process should be taken into account.

What is parquet board

Outwardly, it resembles a laminate: the same oblong panel. Its standard sizes are:

length 1.8-2.4 m;
width 14-20 cm;
thickness 10-24 mm.

A distinctive feature of the division of parquet boards into groups is the structure of the base:

PD-1 - has a single-layer rack base, assembled into squares and rectangles, oriented perpendicular to each other (see Fig. 1a). Longitudinal edges lined with slats.
PD-2 - has a single-layer lath base oriented along the axis of the board (see Fig. 1b).
PD-3 - has a two-layer base of laths oriented perpendicular to each other (see Fig. 1c and 1d).

Figure 1. Types of parquet board.

Another distinguishing feature is the number of dice:

One-strip parquet board (see Fig. 1d - 1).
Two-lane (see Fig. 1e - 2).
Three-lane (see Fig. 1d - 3).

This is a natural finishing material. For the manufacture of the outer layer, wood of valuable and conifers. The front side is usually covered with a transparent parquet varnish.

Before starting work, stock up on the necessary tools:

a saw with fine teeth;
square, tape measure, ruler and pencil;
a hammer and a block for tamping;
drill and drills;
wedges and braces.

Figure 2. Ways of laying a parquet board: 2a - ultralock, 2b - kombilok.

In the room where the laying is carried out, certain conditions must be maintained: humidity 40-60% and temperature 18-22 ºС. If laying on a heated floor, its temperature should be reduced to 18-20 ºС a day or two before the start of work. You can increase it to the usual values \u200b\u200b(but not higher than 28 ºС) two days after the end of the work.

Wood noticeably changes its dimensions with changes in humidity, therefore a gap of about 1 cm wide should be left between the coating and the walls. Wedges give the coating reliability. There should also be gaps around the pipes. The finishing material must be kept in the room where the installation is to be done for at least two days. All this time it must remain in the package.

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floating laying method

The most popular method for rooms whose area does not exceed 60 m 2. This technology of laying a parquet plate implies that the base of the floor is well prepared, and the board has a good and secure lock(see Fig. 2). There are several types of lock connections, but the two main ones are most common:

ultralock (Fig. 2a);
kombilok (Fig. 2b).

Most experts prefer the connection combilok. It is easier to assemble and more reliable to tear.

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Substrate surface preparation for laying

Figure 3. The technology of laying parquet boards.

For laying in this way, you need a solid, very even and dry base. These properties are typical for concrete screed and adjustable wood floors. Both options have their pros and cons:

the screed can be thin, which is especially important for low rooms;
under adjustable floors communications can be laid, but the height of the room is slightly reduced.

A parquet floor on an uneven base will squeak annoyingly, so the leveling control must be careful, it is done using a long building or hydraulic level. The screed is best done on the basis of self-leveling mixtures. After laying and leveling, you need to give it about three weeks of exposure to gain strength and dry completely.

The basis of the adjustable floor is a durable plate made of moisture-resistant plywood, into which threaded adjusting legs are screwed. They can adjust the ideal horizontal position. Fast, convenient and reliable way. Another plus: on such a basis you can lead in any way.

For guard parquet flooring from moisture, a synthetic, composite or natural cork substrate must be laid under it. Its thickness should not be more than 2-3 mm. A special adhesive tape is used to seal the seams between the sheets of the substrate.

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The order and technology of laying

Figure 4. Ways of laying a parquet board: 4a - adhesive, 4b - at an angle, 4c - laying on a wooden base, 4d - laying on logs.

The first row of panels is laid with the left side of the lock (see Fig. 2) against the wall with a gap of about 1 cm and reinforced with wedges. The direction is taken along the falling from the window daylight. Each new row usually starts with the remainder of the previous one, if it is not less than 0.5 m. It is necessary to ensure that dirt and sand do not get into the lock connection. To finish off the docked boards, a wooden block can be used.

If desired, the lock joints of the boards can be glued. They do this not to fix the connections, but to protect against water spilled on the floor.

In order to outline the pipes, applying a board to them, make markings (see Fig. 3a and 3b), drill holes with a diameter of 2 cm larger diameter pipes and saw off the edge of the board (see Fig. 3c). Then the board is laid in place and the sawn-off segment is glued (see Fig. 3d). The edge of the hole can be closed with a suitable ring.

The boards of the last row are cut to the desired width, taking into account the expansion gap, the key edge is cut off from the groove of the boards of the penultimate row, and glue is applied to the groove. After that, the boards are carefully put into place with the help of a stop bracket. Expansion wedges are installed in the expansion gap.

At the end of laying, wedges are removed from the expansion gap around the entire perimeter of the floor and a plinth is installed. The plinth is attached only to the wall.

Flooring is an important element of the interior. The comfort of interior decoration largely depends on the quality of the installation and the properties of the material. A special comfort in the room will be provided by laying parquet boards.

Features of modern parquet flooring

For many centuries, flooring has been formed from wooden planks, with the help of which the parquet floor is formed. It has sufficient strength, and the look of polished wood is much more beautiful and natural than tile, stone or synthetic materials.

Now you can lay the parquet the old fashioned way by gradually laying the floor with wooden lamellas over the screed or on the crate of the beams. However, the technology of laying parquet boards, as well as the installation process, has undergone significant changes over the past decades.

As a material for a parquet floor, you can use a parquet board. It is a cake made of several layers of wood. This was done to make the flooring more reliable. Three layers of wood are glued together, while the wood fibers of each layer are placed at an angle of 90 degrees to the neighboring ones. The two lower layers are made of cheap and strong wood. The top layer, which actually will be visible, is made of expensive wood lamellae.

The range of parquet boards provides the buyer wide selection among various types wood species used. The lamellas of the finishing layer themselves can be placed on the parquet in one, two or three rows, representing classic version placement of parquet boards in stripes. There are also variations in the placement of lamellas in the form of a Dutch pattern, wickerwork and herringbone.

What are the installation methods?

Methods for laying parquet boards are divided into:

dry laying or floating method;
gluing parquet boards to each other and gluing to the base of the floor;
installation using mechanical fasteners;

To facilitate the installation process, the parquet board is equipped with a locking system with adjacent boards. Its three-layer structure in this case gives lock connection even more reliability. This eliminates even the need for gluing or fastening to the base of the floor. It is this method in this moment actively distributed by manufacturers. This technology makes available reliable and quality styling parquet boards with your own hands, and the result will come out no worse than from the hands of a professional.

Let's start laying: the order of work

After purchasing a high-quality parquet board well-known manufacturer You will surely see that the instructions for laying the parquet board are attached to it, however, this is only general information and description of the mounting method.

Let's take a closer look at the procedure for laying parquet boards, point by point:

First, bring the surface of the base in the proper form. On the floor, form a screed that will level the surface and provide a smooth base at one level for subsequent work. The screed can be either wet or dry. This will not affect the quality of the parquet laying.
Thoroughly clean the surface of the screed from dirt and dust.
Lay the first layer of waterproofing film on the screed. Should be used polyethylene film 200 microns thick, or commercially available specialized films for hydro vapor barrier. The film is distributed in strips over the entire surface with the film strips overlapping each other by about 20 cm. Around the perimeter of the room, wrap the film onto the wall by about 5-6 cm.
Lay the next layer of heat insulator. The most commonly used roll of foamed polyethylene. This is quite enough for thermal insulation and sound insulation of the floor. If the project requires more than high-quality insulation, then slabs of expanded polystyrene or similar material are laid. Lay strips or plates of insulator butt-to-wall and without gaps between adjacent elements. In the case of polyethylene foam, glue the strips of material together with adhesive tape.

The basis for the parquet floor is ready. Next, the direct laying of the floor from the parquet board begins. Laying should begin along more than long wall and not from a wall with a doorway. Put the first board against the wall in the corner. Between the wall and the board, put wedges of the same thickness, about 7-8 mm. This will provide the necessary clearance between the entire plane of the floor covering and the walls. In different seasons of the year and at different temperatures, thermal deformations of the coating are inevitable, and a gap is left to compensate for this process.
Lay subsequent boards along the wall. On the remainder to the wall, attach another one and mark the cut line. Do not forget about the required clearance of 7-8 mm.
The next row should be laid from the remaining piece of board from the previous row. However, if it is necessary to adhere to the pattern on the floor surface, it may be necessary to cut off excess from the remainder to match the ornament. Apply the boards with a lock, to those laid earlier, at an angle of about 20-25 degrees. Push forward and down at the same time. You will feel when the grooves of the lock begin to converge. To speed up the process use rubber mallet. Gently tap on the joint line, and the boards will securely take their place in the joint.
Lay all subsequent boards in the same way, until the floor is completely covered. Insert wedges into the ends of the extreme boards of each row for a gap.
After assembling the entire flooring, remove any wedges that separated the floorboards from the walls. Next, cut off the strip of polyethylene protruding above the floor from the waterproofing layer.
The last step is to install skirting boards around the entire perimeter of the room.

What should be considered when laying parquet boards?

As the parquet board is being laid, obstacles will probably come across in the form of protrusions in the wall or heating pipes. In such situations, appropriate pieces are cut in the board to bypass the obstacle. Again, do not forget about the gap. Cutting boards or cutting them to avoid obstacles is most convenient with a jigsaw. When using it, use files with fine teeth. You can replace a jigsaw with a fine-toothed wood saw or a hacksaw.

If other methods of laying the parquet board from the three listed above are chosen, only the method of mounting the boards to each other will change.

If you lay the version of the floor covering without locks (with smooth edges) on glue, an adhesive is applied to the joints of the boards and the boards are securely pressed against each other. Ultimately, with the help of wedges at the edges of the flooring, the boards will firmly press against each other.

Don't forget about proper floor care!

It should be remembered that, as ordinary parquet, the parquet board has a number of nuances in the way of operation. Clean the parquet floor with a well wrung out cloth, the floor surface is afraid of strong moisture. When cleaning with a vacuum cleaner, be sure to expose the brush on the nozzle. The board, although it has a lot of advantages, both technical and aesthetic, is less strong than other materials. modern coatings. The surface may be scratched or damaged by furniture legs. To maintain the perfect appearance of your parquet floor, consider installing special stickers made of soft material on the legs of furniture and especially chairs.

When choosing a multi-layer wood flooring, buyers often pay attention to its service life. At the same time, all manufacturers, without exception, indicate that the finishing material will really last this period only if the rules for laying parquet boards are followed.

The developers of such well-known factories as Chers, Barlinek, Tarket and others are trying to improve their product, working in many respects not only on the appearance, but also on the installation system. To significantly speed up and facilitate the installation process, new lock kits are being developed. Today we can distinguish the following types:

Classic tongue-and-groove or Lock.
Click hitch - connection of planks at an angle of 10-30 °, followed by pressing to fasten the lamellas together.
5G system – volumetric fixation. Its names and basic characteristics may vary, but in general the principle is the same - an additional insert or “tongue” made of dense PVC or aluminum is built into the end lock. This component gives the hitch rigidity and strength, prevents seasonal divergence of the bars, and increases the service life of the coating.

The type of locking system depends on how to properly lay the parquet board. Each pack of quality floor material always is detailed instructions on installation, answering all the questions of a novice or experienced master.

Let us dwell on the methods of assembling a multilayer wooden coating. Includes:

"Floating" (independent). The floor is assembled exclusively on its own locks, without bonding to the base. it best option if it is planned to lay the parquet board with your own hands.
Glue. One-component elastic compositions are used on polymer base(polyurethane, MS and others). The adhesive is applied to any type of screed, including cement and dry prefabricated chipboard, OSB, plywood, etc.
On fastener. It is used for rigid fixation of each plank to the base. In this case, special “parquet” (finishing) hardware, air studs (complete with an air gun) or classic dowel-nails are needed.

The scheme of laying the parquet board is standard - with an offset of 1/3. That is, each subsequent row is shifted relative to the previous one by a third of the length of the bar. This will allow you to form a strong, reliable and durable circular “strapping” of all lamellas.

How to lay a parquet board: starting with the basics

The quality of installation of parquet flooring directly depends on how carefully the base is prepared. Criteria:

Floors formed on the ground;
Logs, if under the base base there are too raw or warm rooms(boiler room, boiler room, laundry, basement, etc.);
Systems of water, soft electric or infrared heating;
Aerated concrete beams.

Features of laying parquet boards are not limited to this list. It is necessary to take into account that:

Advice! Remember that beech or maple floors are subject to active deformation, so they should not be placed on the "warm floor" system.

You will need the following materials and tools for laying parquet boards:

Do-it-yourself parquet board laying: step by step instructions

We describe the installation process in stages.

Foundation preparation

First of all, all old coatings are completely removed without exception. If, according to the results of measurements, floor leveling is required, then for mineral bases you can use:

Self-levelling self-leveling floors on a cement-gypsum or gypsum basis;
Dry prefabricated screed sheet materials(plywood, chipboard and others).

The finished base is checked for evenness with a control rail more than 2 m long, with a hygrometer for humidity. If the base defects are small, then they are filled with quick-drying repair compounds or a cement-sand mixture.

The screed must be primed before work:

Adhesive compounds, if gluing a parquet board is supposed;
Strengthening compositions, if the coating is laid in a "floating" way.

For wooden base the scheme of work is somewhat different. Irregularities (differences, "humps") should be cut off or eliminated with a parquet grinder. Pits, chips must be leveled with elastic putties, and if there are squeaks, “pull” the subfloor to the base with self-tapping screws or nails. With multiple defects, it is better to form a new prefabricated screed from chipboard sheets or plywood with a thickness of 16 mm. Top is treated with a fungicidal primer.

Preparation for work

After the end of the "wet" work on the prepared surface under the parquet board, a waterproofing and substrate material is laid. That is, neatly, without creases, a film is spread on the floor with an overlap of 15-25 cm, fixed with adhesive tape. Then the sheet or roll substrate is already laid end-to-end. With adhesive mounting, this step is skipped.

Since the parquet board must "acclimatize", the packaged material must be kept indoors for 24 to 36 hours. Experts recommend warming up the floor heating system for 2 weeks before starting installation work, then turn it off 3-4 hours before laying. This will allow you to create the right climate in the premises, to avoid thermal damage to the finish.

Advice! Wood is a natural product, therefore variations in shade and texture are possible. This should not be frightened, it is better to turn it to your advantage - open several packages in advance, lay out the lamellas on the base and form a pattern that is beautiful in your opinion.

The next step is to carefully measure the floor and plan the work. To lay the parquet board as evenly as possible, draw a laying diagram to scale on a sheet of paper. The width of the last row should not be less than 5 cm. In this case, a proportional displacement of the first one is necessary.

Floor covering installation

Laying in a "floating" way starts from the longest wall from left to right. Expansion wedges are placed around the perimeter. Some experts recommend doing this after assembling the first three rows: the finished coating is shifted with a bracket and spacers are inserted into the resulting gaps.

The assembly itself begins with the fact that the protruding part of the lock is cut off at the planks of the first row, then the first one is installed in the corner and the installation begins along the end edge. The end plate can be trimmed if necessary. The next row is formed from the rest of the lamella of the previous one. For the parquet board of the classic Click-lock, first the end couplers are connected, then the joining is done along the length with the obligatory knocking out with an impact block.

Note that it is much more convenient to work with Lock and 5G connections. They can be joined as needed both longitudinally and across, which is shown in the video below.

For some types of three-dimensional lock, it is not necessary to additionally adjust the plastic insert. It is enough to click the plates correctly.

The last row of boards must be carefully sized (cut), then assembled by end locks and inserted into the gap between the wall and the outer row. The laid parquet must be pressed with a metal bracket or a wringer.

If the edge of the bar rests against a pipe or other similar obstacle, then the cut line is marked with a pencil, a piece is sawn off, a hole is drilled with a compensation margin of at least 10-16 mm. The lamella is put in place, an adhesive composition is applied to the cut and the cut element is glued.

After the assembly is completed, the wedges must be removed, the floor heating system must be turned on, gradually raising the temperature, the decorative plinth and thresholds in the doors must be mounted. The formation of gaps in the openings between rooms is not a whim, but a requirement of manufacturers.

When installing parquet boards adhesive method, the order of work will be slightly different:

Apply to the prepared base. adhesive composition and spread evenly with a notched trowel.
At the boards of the first row, cut the edge.
Assemble the coating in the standard manner, knocking it down with a bar and loading it with a load for better adhesion or fixing it with hardware that is “driven” into the lock groove at an angle of 45 °. In the same way, the parquet is fastened to the base with nails or air gun studs without an adhesive compound.

After completion of all work, many manufacturers recommend washing the floor by special means for parquet and parquet boards, so that the wax contained in them reliably seals all joints.

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