Not every home craftsman knows how to properly install electrical wiring in a house with his own hands. We will help to formulate the basics for a novice master and equip the house with light and warmth.
The electrical communication device can be carried out both in an open and in a closed way. The open type is laid on the surface of the wall, covering the cables with plastic tubes or skirting boards. The height level for this type is not regulated and is chosen arbitrarily. When performing installation work on open wiring, it is forbidden to combine cables of different capacities in one plinth. Moreover, these decorative elements must be selected from non-combustible material, which, moreover, has insulating properties. In basements and attics, cables are reinforced with special brackets.
Concealed wiring is located in voids specially designed for this purpose, inside suspended ceiling structures or partitions. It is recommended to lay the power cable at the same time as laying the floors. If there are no ready-made niches, then it is produced, and the wire is laid in the resulting grooves. When installing an electrical system for lighting fixtures under a layer of plaster, it is necessary to use cables with protective insulation.
When doing the installation of electrical wiring in a private house, it must be remembered that communications hidden by plaster should run perfectly horizontally or vertically. By laying cables in all sorts of voids, you can look for the shortest paths, while saving wire. When installing electricity in suspended ceiling structures, it is necessary to use materials that do not support combustion. When installing in rooms with high humidity, do not use wires with a protective sheath made of metal.
Before starting work, you need to carefully consider how to conduct electrical wiring in the house, observing all safety rules. After all, improperly performed work can have unpleasant consequences. In places where the cable branches, it is necessary to install special junction boxes that will hide the connection points and protect them from unwanted short circuits. When installing a hidden type of wiring, it is necessary to install sockets and switches of a special type.
The installation height of the electric cable is self-adjusting, but must be at least 40 cm from the floor, for the safety of the residents of the house from electric shock in the event of unforeseen flooding. Following safety regulations, sockets should be installed at a considerable distance from sinks and radiators. The distance between these objects must be at least 50 cm.
Installation of sockets in rooms prone to high humidity (baths, saunas) is allowed at a distance exceeding 2.6 m from the water source.
When installing electric motors and various other power equipment, it is necessary to choose models whose interior can only be accessed with the help of special tools. Connecting appliances and electric stoves requires the use of a cable that has an appropriate cross section and is necessarily covered with a metal sheath. Such a wire can be laid under the floor, choosing the shortest path from the machines to the device.
Before laying the wiring in the house, it is necessary to draw up a detailed plan on paper, marking on it each switch and the location of heating and power devices. Using the scheme, you can accurately calculate the required number of cables of a certain section, which will seriously save money. Next, we will tell you how to do electrical wiring in the house, and even the most distant person from electricity can do it on their own.
Do-it-yourself wiring in the house - let's get to work
The installation of electrical communications is not difficult, the main thing is to follow the necessary sequence, and everything will definitely work out. So now is the time to proceed directly to the discussion of the process of how to make electrical wiring in the house.
How to make wiring in the house with your own hands - step by step diagram
Step 1: Markup
Before starting installation, regardless of the type chosen, it is necessary to make markings by drawing directly on the wall the places where junction boxes, switches and, of course, sockets will be located. It is also necessary to note the route of the wires where they will be mounted. Marking is done with a crayon or marker and a long ruler. As a simplified option, to mark the places where the cable passes, you can use a nylon cord painted with bright paint.
Step 2: Preparing the Seats
Using a puncher, in the places where the junction boxes will be located, it is necessary to drill holes, the diameter of which should not exceed 70 mm. And where the wire is supposed to enter, additional recesses are made to facilitate installation work. When working with a perforator, it is advisable to periodically moisten the drilling site with water. This will help save the drill, and there will be much less dust..
In places where electric lighting is carried out through the wall to another room, it is necessary to make holes of small diameter. If a private house being created according to the plan will be mounted in a wall, it is necessary to dig furrows in it that exactly correspond to the scheme. For this, a grinder or a specially designed construction wall chaser is suitable. When working with a grinder or a puncher, in order to maintain your health, you must follow certain safety measures.
Step 3: Wiring
When laying the wires, it is necessary to move from the switchboard in the direction of the mounting boxes, gradually moving to the lighting fixtures. Fixing the cable on the wall must be done using fasteners, which are installed at a distance of about 30 cm. The places where the wire enters the junction box, as well as all bends, are additionally fixed. For fixing, you can use all kinds of remnants and wire cuts that are nailed to the wall, while grabbing the cable to be mounted. It is also possible to fix communications laid in recesses with a solution with the addition of alabaster.
Step 4: Installing Back Boxes
Electrical wiring in the house is done before the plastering of the room. Junction boxes are installed using alabaster mortar, a small amount of which is placed in the recess. Before installing this element, wires are inserted into it, then, using a certain force, they are pressed into the mortar mass, but so that the edges of the box protrude above the wall surface. All such elements must be on the same horizontal line for an even distribution of switches.
But even more important is the first finishing, for example, in a newly built house. Here you can no longer do with simple cosmetics. Sooner or later, you will either have to undertake the installation of electrical wiring yourself or hire professional electricians, because electricity in the house is necessary. And even under the condition of a one-story house, the amount for this will be very rather big.
But what if these funds are already planned to be spent on something else? This question can be answered in the following way. With a great desire, utmost care and accuracy, as well as strict adherence to the instructions and rules, you can do the wiring yourself.
Let's try to figure out whether it is possible, without special education, to do the wiring in the house with your own hands, how difficult such work is and what rules must be followed in order to conduct electricity in a private house. How to conduct wiring, wiring and complete electrification of the house - these are the questions that we will now try to sort out. So, step-by-step instructions on how to properly perform electrical wiring in a private house.
Preparing for installation
Installation of wiring in the first place implies one thing - it is not to rush and try not to miss a single detail, because this business does not tolerate fuss. Before starting work, it is worth sketching diagrams of future electrical communications (this diagram may come in handy in the future). To do this, first of all, it is necessary to determine the location of the introductory switchboard, all lamps, sockets, and also calculate the maximum power for each of them. Further, having made a schematic sketch on a sheet of paper (an example of such a sketch is above), distribute the load along the lines - this will be the electrical wiring device in the house. It should be borne in mind that modern lighting devices consume a fairly small amount of electricity, and therefore it would be quite acceptable to plan the number of lighting lines at the rate of 1 group for 2 rooms, and this is done only for the convenience of subsequent maintenance and repair.
But with power groups, that is, lines that will go to sockets, the calculations should be more accurate. Indeed, the size of the machines and the cross-section of cables suitable for the total power consumed by household appliances will depend on the detailed data of consumers.
Usually, when installing electrical wiring, the best option is for each outlet group of the room to have a separate line. In addition to reducing the load on wiring and machines, this gives more convenience in the subsequent repair of sockets and cables, if such a need arises.
Naturally, electrical appliances such as an electric stove or a boiler for heating water should go in separate lines.
Section selection
When doing such work as do-it-yourself wiring in a house, the calculation of the necessary cable plays a very important role. So, only after calculating the total load on the rooms, you can proceed to the selection of the section. By the way, the wire diameter can also be calculated not only by power consumption, but also by current consumption. All the necessary data can be found in the technical documentation for household electrical appliances. Such calculations are required before conducting electricity in the house.
Do not forget that the calculation of the cable cross-section is carried out on the basis of all the data, not excluding the distance from the distribution box to the consumer, as well as the type of installation - with an open method of conducting the wire cross-section is allowed smaller than with hidden wiring, for free cooling account.
It is also necessary to take into account the material from which the cable is made. All data on the selection and calculation of the cable section can be seen in the attached table.
An aluminum cable with a cross section of 2.5 square meters will be optimal for lighting. mm, and a copper cross section of 1.5 sq. mm. But this is only under the condition of normal lighting. If high power halogen lamps are used for lighting, the calculation is also made according to the table.
It is important to understand that it will be more reliable if the wire diameter is slightly larger than necessary - this will save you from additional wiring when adding any additional household appliances and electrical equipment in the kitchen or other rooms.
Sockets, switches and lighting fixtures
Having decided on the cross-section and length of the cables, it is necessary to select the necessary lighting fixtures, sockets and switches. This also needs to be done in advance, before going to the store. Sockets are selected depending on the type of household electrical appliance that will be included in it. After all, it's no secret to anyone that the plug of a household appliance can be of an old design, or maybe according to the European standard, that is, with thick pins. This must be taken into account when designing. It is also necessary to determine the degree of protection, that is, IP. To do this, the place of operation of the outlet and the possibility of exposure to aggressive environments, that is, humidity, dust, dirt, and the like, are determined. This also applies to the choice of switches and lighting fixtures.
Another important point. If there are small children in the house, then it makes sense to purchase sockets with protective shutters - they will not allow children to put foreign objects inside, which will protect children from electric shock.
You also need to decide where the switches will be installed, and where the dimmers will need to be installed. Depending on this, it will be possible to choose lighting devices. Do not forget that not all LED lamps are dimmable, and therefore it is better to immediately calculate the number of adjustable and unregulated lamps.
Mounting
After purchasing all the necessary cables and equipment, you can proceed directly to the installation. First of all, you need to draw the routes along which the cables will pass, after which, using a wall cutter or a puncher, you need to make grooves called grooves, into which the wiring will be laid. Also, with the help of a perforator drill and a special diamond or victorious crown, recesses for sockets, switches and junction boxes are also made.
Do not forget that junction boxes are placed directly above each switch and socket. The lines into which the wiring is laid are located strictly vertically or horizontally - in this case, in the future you will not have to guess where the wire is located if you have to drill something.
After the grooves are made, a cable is laid, which is fixed in the stub so that later the channel can be plastered. At the installation sites of sockets, switches and junction boxes, it is necessary to leave at least 10–15 cm of wire stock, which is necessary for connections.
By the way, if the wire goes from the junction box to a single-gang switch, then the cable must be two-wire, and if it's a two-gang switch, then three-wire. It is probably worth dwelling on the methods of installing junction boxes in a little more detail.
Wiring
Surely everyone noticed that the colors of the insulation of the cores of the cables were of different colors. This is done by the manufacturer not for beauty or aesthetics. First of all, this is the convenience of installation and subsequent maintenance, as well as the electrical safety of the fitter himself.
Wiring by color is carried out as follows:
- Yellow-green, light green or yellow wire is always ground. It is these colors that are generally accepted today.
- Blue, blue or white with a blue stripe - always a neutral wire or neutral. It should not be confused with grounding. Of course, when these conductors are bridged, the equipment will not fail, but when a residual current device (RCD) is installed in the input shield, it will be constantly turned off.
- All other colors are used as phase conductors.
The wiring diagram must match the color marking.
It is important to remember that in order to make the wiring in the junction box to the switches correctly, it is the “phase” that must be interrupted, which means that the neutral wire (and, if any, the ground wire) must be routed so that it goes directly to the lamp, and the phase went down to the enabling device.
Both wires are sent to the sockets from the box, that is, both “phase” and “zero”.
Connections in junction boxes must be tight. For this, it is desirable to use special terminal blocks - Wago. If the twisting method is used, then it makes sense to solder such connections to obtain better contact and prevent heating of the wire.
Installation of the input power cabinet
Probably the most important stage in the installation of electrical wiring in a private house is the connection of the elements of the power shield, through which electricity will be supplied, protection against overloads and short circuits, as well as accounting for electricity supplied to residential premises.
It should be noted that first the entire installation of the electrical cabinet and the switching of the wiring that goes to the premises are carried out, and only after that the main power is supplied.
Modern switchboards have special din rails that make it easier to mount equipment such as automatic devices, RCDs and an electric meter.
The switching sequence of the power cabinet is as follows:
First of all, the introductory machine is attached. Its rating must be higher than the total power of distribution machines. Also, the wire going from it to the electricity meter, as well as from the electric meter to distribution machines, must have a larger cross section than the cable cores going to distribution lines in residential premises.
It must also be remembered that the power input voltage line from the pole to the house is made only by the service organization after the necessary approvals. Under no circumstances should you do this work yourself. This means that wiring in a private house is the work that the home master performs, and supplying the power line to the input is the task of a specialist.
Installation of an electricity meter
The electric meter is installed after the introductory two-pole machine as follows.
The phase wire from the breaker comes to the first, and the zero wire to the third contact. The second contact is the phase output to the distribution machines, and the fourth is the zero output, which is connected to the zero bus, which is usually provided in modern electrical panels. All blue or blue (depending on the cable manufacturer's company) lines that go to the premises are also connected to it. This is where the advantage of color-coded cables comes to light.
When connecting an electricity meter, you can also be guided by the connection diagram, which is always present on the back of the protective cover of the contacts.
The wire strands in the contact terminals of the meter, which has two clamping screws, are fixed as follows: first, the upper screw is tightened, then the lower one is pressed. Thus, the core is evenly and tightly located in the contact terminal, which will avoid heating.
Distribution machines
Purchased by the number of socket and lighting groups, as well as their currents, the machines are mounted on a din rail. From above, among themselves, they are all connected by jumpers. Thus, when power is applied to one of them, the voltage is evenly distributed over all.
After that, without confusing the groups, connect the wires outgoing to the premises to the distribution machines. In this case, it makes sense to sign each of the machines, to which of the groups it connects. This will eliminate unnecessary shutdowns when replacing, for example, a lamp or socket. After all, if a problem occurs in one of the outlets, you can turn off the machine, which is responsible for this particular group. Then electrical appliances in other rooms will work normally, and in the room where repair or replacement is needed, the light will even be on. Therefore, it is worth carefully considering the project of electrical wiring at home.
After all the work done, you need to once again stretch all the contacts on the machines, the power consumption meter and, most importantly, on the zero bus, since with poor contact and heating of the wire, it is “zero” that starts to burn first.
In addition, after 2–3 weeks of operation, these contacts will need to be checked again and, if necessary, extended.
Testing and commissioning
If you are not sure that all the wiring in the junction boxes is done correctly, it is better, of course, to contact a specialist. If there is such confidence, you can proceed to the test. Without installing light fixtures, sockets and switches, it is necessary (of course, after making sure that all the conclusions from them do not bridge with each other), turn on the lines of the power (socket) group in turn. In the absence of short circuits (the machines did not turn off), you need to check all the wires of the sockets using an indicator or a multitester. If everything is in order, you can go to the lighting groups.
After turning off the sockets, the room lighting switches on, and then the voltage at the terminals to the switches is checked, where there should be an incoming phase and one or two outgoing wires without voltage. At the norm, the lighting lines are turned off, and the wires of the breakers are bridged. This will allow, after power is applied, to check the voltage at the cable outlets directly to the lighting devices.
If the testing did not reveal any complaints, you can safely cover up the scratches on the walls, close the junction boxes and (of course, turning off the power) start interior decoration of the room. This completes the installation of electrical wiring in a private house.
Do-it-yourself wiring, as already mentioned, is accuracy and precise implementation of instructions and rules - home electrics are complicated. But the factor of self-confidence is also important. And therefore, if before you do the wiring, there are doubts about the ability to complete the entire installation, then it is better to immediately entrust this matter to specialists.
Do not think that after completing part of the electrical work, you can pay a smaller amount. It won't work, and here's why. No self-respecting professional will undertake to conduct electrical wiring in a house where the installation has already been started by others, because in fact everything needs to be redone and rechecked.
The main thing is accuracy and tight contact. Connection using WAGO terminal blocks.
And therefore, the amount for services of this kind can be not only equal to the cost of a full electrical installation, but even exceed it.
If, nevertheless, work is done in a private house with your own hands, you need to carefully monitor the density of connections and compliance with color coding in order to avoid short circuits, damage to electrical equipment or electric shock.
Of course, making electrical wiring in a house is a very complex and time-consuming process, and besides, it takes a lot of time. But, nevertheless, with the right approach, it is quite doable on your own, which will save money, and most importantly, help you gain a huge and most useful installation experience that will never be superfluous.
The power supply scheme of a private house is a set of ordered cables, wires, protective devices. The correct selection of parameters, characteristics of the circuit elements guarantees the safety and comfort of property owners.
If the scheme is drawn up correctly, taking into account the requirements of the PUE and other regulatory documents, there is nothing to fear - there will always be light, heat in the rooms, and electrical appliances will not break down from power surges or a short circuit in the network. Therefore, the design of electricians should be given special attention.
We offer to understand all the intricacies of this process. The article outlines the general requirements for the design of an electrical network, provides practical advice on choosing wires, and also discusses in detail typical electrical wiring diagrams.
In addition, we have prepared an overview of common mistakes, taking into account which will help to avoid shortcomings in the development and installation of power supply networks.
When there were few electrical appliances, and several 40-60 W light bulbs were enough for lighting, a primitive circuit was drawn up for the device of the power supply system, including several switches and sockets.
Now, with the advent of a large number of volatile household appliances, the circuit is necessarily differentiated into group lines protected by circuit breakers and other devices.
Up to a dozen devices can be connected in only one kitchen, 2-3 of which are powerful units that require dedicated power lines with an increased cross-section cable and separate sockets
If you think through all the nuances of the location of the electrical wiring in a private house, taking into account the use of copper wire, it will last at least 20 years. Usually, the scheme is drawn up along with the design of a new house or before a major overhaul.
You should start by specifying the installation locations of such elements as:
- sockets;
- switches;
- distribution boxes;
- lighting devices;
- powerful household appliances;
- electrical panel.
At the same stage, you should decide on the method of laying cables - open or closed. In houses with plastered walls, a closed method is usually used, with wooden ones - an open method.
Whatever scheme you use, there are a number of rules that you cannot deviate from. They are prescribed in the regulatory documentation, and their effectiveness has been proven for decades.
Here are a few important axioms of wiring that will be required for drawing up a diagram:
Image gallery
To save energy on the stairs leading to the second floor or to the attic, LED lamps with motion sensors are installed, which turn on only in the presence of a person.
Be sure to ground all metal sockets and objects connected with power lines. For grounding in electrical installations, the third core of the cable is used - a wire in yellow-green insulation.
In houses made of bricks, aerated concrete blocks, cinder blocks, interior wall decoration is necessary, which means that a hidden method is used to lay wires.
To provide additional protection, and in case of repair to quickly replace the cable, it is placed in a non-flammable polymer.
Every year we use at home an increasing number of household and digital appliances, which not only make our life more comfortable, but also significantly increase the load on the electrical system. Old wiring cannot always withstand the increasing load, so the owner may need to upgrade or completely replace the power grid. Replacing wiring is a very complex and responsible task that requires special knowledge and skills from the performer. Today we will talk about the rules for the design and implementation of electrical work.
Rules for creating electrical wiring in the house
Any construction work is regulated by a number of rules and regulations described in GOST and SNiP. Work with the electrical system is described in sufficient detail in the PUE - in the Rules for the Construction of Electrical Installations. If you want to do it yourself or an apartment with your own hands, you definitely need to familiarize yourself with this document.
Maximum attention should be paid to the rules affecting the laying of electrical wiring, the selection and installation of electrical equipment. The PUE states that important elements of the electrical system, such as sockets, meters, junction boxes and switches, must be mounted so that they can be easily accessed at any time.
Switches are recommended to be placed at a height of 60 to 150 cm from the floor. It is better to mount them so that the open door to the room does not interfere with access to them. That is, if the door opens to the left, then the switch should be located on the wall on the right. The wires to the switches must be fed from above.
Sockets are best placed at a height of 50-80 cm from the floor level. Electrical consumption points should not be located completely near the floor; this is not safe in case of flooding of a residential facility. Sockets must be located at least 50 cm away from the stove, radiators, pipes and various grounded elements. The electrical cable to the sockets is laid in the direction from the bottom up.
The PUE also regulates the rules for calculating the required number of outlets for the premises of a residential facility. For living rooms, 1 socket is required for every 6 m2 of room area. The only exception is the kitchen, in this room it is allowed to place almost any required number of sockets, their exact number is determined taking into account the number of household appliances installed in the room. In toilets, the installation of points of electrical consumption is prohibited, and in bathrooms they must have special protection against moisture.
Cabling can be done openly or hidden. Regardless of the type of installation chosen, cables can only be placed strictly horizontally and vertically. The turns of the wires must be at right angles. Horizontally located wires should be installed at a distance of 5-10 cm from floor beams and cornices, at a distance of more than 15 cm from the ceiling and at least 20 cm from the floor. Vertical cables are located at a distance of more than 10 cm from windows and doorways. There must always be more than 40 cm of empty space between electrical cables and gas pipes.
Wires should not touch metal elements and building structures. When installing several cables in parallel, there must be a gap of more than 3 cm, and each wire must be located in a protective corrugation or box. Connection and wiring of wires is possible only in junction boxes, all connection points must be insulated, and it is forbidden to connect copper and aluminum wires to each other. Neutral wires and grounding are fixed on the equipment with special bolted connections.
Is it necessary to design the electrical system before installation?
Work on the installation of new electrical wiring must necessarily begin with the creation of a full-fledged electrical project, which includes wiring diagrams. This document is the basis of the future electrical system, therefore, design is considered the most important and most difficult task that has to be solved during the electrification of facilities.
It is best to order high-quality design from professionals who have the necessary knowledge and experience to create electrical circuits. The most important reason for turning to the masters is the danger of the electrical network for a person. Making mistakes at the stages of designing electricians is highly likely to lead to emergencies, fires and electric shock to people.
If you do not want to turn to professionals because of a desire to save money or for other reasons, you can prepare an electrification project on your own, but in this case, the PUE will have to be studied thoroughly. After that, you will have to perform load calculations for the electrical system, select the appropriate equipment and wires in accordance with future loads, and prepare a wiring drawing.
To prepare the drawing, you will have to use generally accepted conventions. By using the correct designations on the diagram, you will make it competent, correct and publicly available, that is, outsiders, and not just yourself, will be able to understand the drawing. In the picture below you will find the most common symbols that are used in all electrical projects without exception.
Using these designations, you will need to mark the location of all elements of the future electrical network on the drawing of the apartment, including sockets, switches, lighting points, junction boxes, a shield, etc. When determining the location of power consumption points, it is imperative to use the recommendations and requirements described in the PUE .
At the next stage, you need to lay out routes for the passage of electrical cables so that they connect individual points of power consumption into a single system, originating from the electrical panel. Wiring design is the most difficult design stage, as there are several types of wiring connections:
- consistent;
- parallel;
- mixed.
When electrical points are connected in series, they are connected one after another from one cable, and when parallel, a separate wire from the junction box is pulled to each outlet. A serial connection is considered too unreliable, and a parallel connection is considered very expensive, due to the large number of cables used. Therefore, professionals recommend using a mixed connection, which involves the use of both types of connection in different conditions. Where it is possible to save money without compromising the reliability and functionality of the system, a serial connection is used, in other cases - parallel.
To simplify the laying of wires and increase the reliability of the entire system, all home wiring is divided into several consumption groups, each of which is connected to a separate machine and RCD in the electrical panel. Most often, the following consumption groups are distinguished in a private house:
- 1. Kitchen and living area lighting group.
- 2. Bathroom and toilet lighting.
- 3. Power supply of sockets of living quarters and corridor.
- 4. Power supply for electric stove sockets.
- 5. Power supply for kitchen outlets.
Of course, you can form any other electrical consumption groups if you think that your option will make the electrical system more reliable and convenient to use.
In some cases, to simplify internal wiring, it is allowed to lay wires to the socket under the floor, and wires for overhead lighting inside the floor slabs. Such wires in the diagrams are marked with a dotted line.
The project for the power supply of a residential facility must necessarily contain a calculation of the current strength in the electrical network, on the basis of which materials for the system are selected. The calculation is performed according to the formula:
Where I is the current strength, U is the voltage in the network, and P is the total power of all power consumption devices installed in the house.
First you will need to calculate the total power of electrical equipment. To do this, add the power of the microwave (1,000 W), refrigerator (400 W), kettle (2,000 W), 10 light bulbs (60 W each = 600 W). In total we get:
1000 400 2000 600=4000W
We divide the resulting figure by 220V (mains voltage) and get the current strength at the level of 16.5 amperes.
In most cases, the current strength in modern houses and apartments rarely exceeds 25 A. Based on this, all the necessary materials are selected for the electrical system, including cables, wires, protection devices and automatic shutdown.
The table below shows the required cross-sectional area for aluminum and copper cables laid in the open and in a pipe, according to the strength of the electric current, the mains voltage and the total power of the consumer devices.
The table shows the exact values, but the current strength can fluctuate, so the wires must be chosen with a margin. The stock is also required because over time, the number of household appliances used will only increase and the load on the network will increase.
- VVG-5 * 6 (5 cores, cross section 6 mm2) - suitable for houses with a three-phase power supply for connecting a lighting panel;
- VVG-2 * 6 - used in networks with two-phase power to connect a lighting panel;
- VVG-3 * 2.5 - as wiring from the internal switchboard to distribution boxes and sockets;
- VVG-3 * 1.5 - for laying from distribution boxes to switches;
- VVG-3 * 5 - for electric stoves.
To determine the exact length of each type of cable, you will have to use a tape measure and use it to measure the approximate distance of the route of each wire. It is recommended to add an additional 3-4 meters to the result obtained so that the cable is exactly enough for installation.
In the electrical panel of the house, there must be a place for circuit breakers and RCDs. RCDs are installed on each lighting group. Typically, RCDs of 16 and 20 A are used. Protective devices of 16 A are suitable for lighting groups and switches, and 20 A for socket groups. To install an electric tile, a 32 A RCD is usually used, but if the power of the tile is more than 7,000 W, then a 63 A protection device will be needed.
Next, you will have to calculate how many outlets and junction boxes will be needed in the house. There should be no problems with this, just look at the previously prepared scheme and make a calculation. In addition to electrical appliances, you will need various consumables - electrical tape, cable channels, electrical wiring boxes, socket boxes, etc. Their number must also be calculated in advance in order to purchase everything you need at a time.
Rules for performing electrical work
When the design of the electrical system is ready, you can proceed to the electrical installation, but where to start? It is best to start by learning about safety and preparing the necessary tools that you will definitely need. For installation, you need a tester, wire cutters, screwdrivers, pliers, a screwdriver, as well as a tool for. Chasing is required for the hidden installation of electrical cables, which involves mounting cables into walls. You will also need a level with which you can draw perfectly straight horizontal and vertical lines that will serve as a guide when installing wires.
After preparing all the necessary tools, you can start marking. You will need to mark with a marker or pencil on the walls and other surfaces the routes for the cables and the locations of the points of electrical consumption, in which you will have to make holes for the installation of switches and sockets.
After marking is completed, you need to act in accordance with the chosen method of cable installation. If you plan to make open wiring, then after marking, you can proceed with the installation of cable channels, which are usually made of high-quality plastic. If the wiring is planned to be installed in a hidden way, then it is necessary to perform gating - to make channels in the surfaces, inside which the wires will be laid in the future.
When chasing, it is recommended to first make holes for electrical consumption points - sockets, switches and light sources, and then proceed to create cable channels. Holes in the walls are made with a perforator, and strobes are made with a grinder. Get ready for the fact that the work will lead to the formation of a huge amount of dust and dirt, because the strobes under the cables must be large enough to fit all the wires.
In addition to the walls, the wires will also be located on the ceiling. There are several ways to run cables on the ceiling. If you plan to make a stretch or false ceiling, then the wires must be attached to the ceiling. Otherwise, it will also be necessary to perform chasing on the ceiling for the installation of channels in the surface for laying cables.
To run cables from one room to another, holes must be made in the walls. Holes must be made with a puncher near the corner of the room. After the completion of chasing and drilling, you can proceed with the installation work.
Open wiring is much easier to install than hidden. You need to start work with the installation of an internal electrical panel. If the house has a special niche for it, then install the box in it, if there is no niche, the box is simply hung on one of the walls, next to the place where electricity enters the house. Install purchased RCDs and circuit breakers inside the shield, the number of which should correspond to the number of allocated consumption groups.
In the upper part of the assembled shield there should be zero terminals, in the lower part there should be grounding terminals, and between them there should be automatic machines. After that, you can put the VVG-3 * 2.5 cable into the shield. From the side of the place where electricity is entered into the house, the connection of the shield must be carried out by a professional electrician, therefore it does not need to be touched. Inside the shield, the input wire is connected as follows: the blue wire to zero, white to the upper contact of the RCD, yellow with a green stripe to ground. RCDs are connected in series with each other at the top using a jumper from a white wire.
Further, along the lines marked on the surfaces, plastic cable channels are installed in the rooms. Usually they are placed on baseboards or under ceilings. The boxes are fixed with self-tapping screws every 50 cm. Drill holes in the walls with a perforator in advance and drive dowels into them.
Sockets, distribution boxes and switches are also hung directly on the wall with open wiring, and you do not need to make holes for them. It is enough to fix the purchased devices with self-tapping screws. Now you can proceed to the step-by-step installation of wires. Start by laying the main line, and then move on to the wires that connect the distribution boxes to the points of electrical consumption. Lastly, wires from the junction boxes to the lighting devices are usually installed.
Remember that wires require insulation. All connections must be insulated, otherwise accidents may occur that can endanger you and your loved ones. After connecting each wire in the shield, you need to hang a label so as not to forget which machine is responsible for which group. At the end, you need to "ring" all the wires with a tester to make sure there are no errors and you can call an electrician to connect the shield to the power supply.
Installation of hidden wiring is carried out in exactly the same way, but with the only difference that the wires are not laid in plastic cable channels, but in pre-prepared strobes in the walls and ceiling. After the cables are laid in the strobes, the holes in the walls must be sealed with gypsum putty.
For an experienced electrician, the procedure for electrifying a house is a fairly simple task that he can complete very quickly. But for a beginner, installing electrical wiring can be simply an overwhelming task. The description presented in the article is just an example of how the wiring is mounted, in each individual conditions there are many nuances that are important to consider. In the absence of confidence in your own abilities, you do not need to take risks, it is better to order design and installation from experienced craftsmen.
Electricity is a serious and responsible business. If you are going to do all the work yourself, you need to do everything very carefully and diligently. Proper wiring in a private house is a guarantee of safety, because according to statistics, 70% of fires occur due to electrical faults. If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to entrust the work to specialists, only proven ones.
Action plan
Wiring in a private house is done before the start of finishing work. The box of the house is expelled, the walls and roof are ready - it's time to start work. The sequence of actions is as follows:
- Determination of the type of input - single-phase (220 V) or three-phase (380 V).
- Development of the scheme, calculation of the capacity of the planned equipment, submission of documents and receipt of the project. Here it must be said that not always in the technical conditions they will determine the power you declared, most likely they will allocate no more than 5 kW.
- Selection of components and accessories, purchase of a meter, automatic machines, cables, etc.
- . It is carried out by a specialized organization, you need to decide on the type - air or underground, install an input machine and a counter in the right place.
- Install electricity in the house.
- Laying cables inside the house, connecting sockets, switches.
- Ground loop device and its connection.
- Testing the system and obtaining an act.
- Electrical connection and operation.
This is only a general plan, each case has its own nuances and features, but you need to start with obtaining the technical conditions for connecting to the power grid and the project. To do this, you need to decide on the type of input and the planned power consumption. It must be remembered that the preparation of documents can take up to six months, so it is better to submit them even before the start of construction: two years are given to fulfill the technical conditions. During this time, for sure, you will be able to drive out the wall on which you can put the machine and the counter.
How many phases
A private house can be supplied with single-phase voltage (220 V) or three-phase (380 V). According to the energy consumption standards for a private house for a single-phase network, the maximum consumption for a house can be 10-15 kW, for a three-phase network - 15 kW.
So what's the difference? The fact that powerful electrical appliances can be directly connected to a three-phase network - electric stoves or heating boilers, ovens and similar equipment. However, the input requirements and wiring of the 380 V network are much tougher: the voltage is higher, there are more chances of serious injury. Therefore, if your house is no more than 100 square meters, and you do not think to heat it with electricity, it is better for you to use 220 V.
Making a plan and receiving a project
Having decided on the type of input, you can begin to develop a plan for the electrification of the house. Take a house plan on a scale, and draw where the equipment will stand, figure out where to place sockets and switches. At the same time, it is necessary to take into account where what large-sized furniture will stand, and where it can be rearranged so that sockets and switches are not placed in these zones.
On the plan, you will need to put all the lighting fixtures: chandeliers, sconces, floor lamps, lamps. Some of them will need switches, some will need sockets. Then you will need to figure out which devices in each room will need to be turned on. For example, the kitchen has a lot of appliances that work constantly. It definitely needs sockets. There is also a technique that turns on periodically. All this is applied to the plan, the optimal location of the inclusion points is determined. The same approach is in each of the rooms.
Determining the total power
Having decided approximately what equipment will be in your house, sum up its power. Average capacities can be taken from the table: there is probably no technology yet. Moreover, where there is, take into account the starting loads (they are much higher). Add about 20% of the stock to the amount found. The result will be the required power. You indicate it in papers submitted for obtaining permission to connect electricity to the site. If you are allocated the declared capacity, you will be very lucky, but you should not hope for it. Most likely, you will have to invest in the standard 5 kW - the most common electricity limit for a private house.
Breakdown of consumers into groups
All these consumers (this is the term of professionals) - lamps, spotlights, switches, sockets - are divided into groups. A separate branch is diluted with an electrician for lighting fixtures. Usually one is enough, but this is not the rule, it may be more convenient or more expedient to make two branches - for each wing of the house or for each floor - depending on the type and configuration of the building. The lighting of the basement floor, utility rooms, as well as the light on the street stands out as a separate group.
Then they are divided into groups of sockets. How much you can "plant" on one wire - depends on the diameter of the wire used, but not very much - three to five, no more. It is better to allocate a separate power line for connecting each powerful device: this is more reliable in terms of fire safety, and will contribute to a longer operation of the devices.
As a result, you can have three to seven lines going to the kitchen - here the equipment is the most and most powerful too: for an electric boiler, an electric stove, separate lines are needed unconditionally. Refrigerator, microwave, electric oven, washing machine is also better to "plant" separately. Less powerful blender, food processor, etc. can be included in one line.
Usually two or four lines go to the rooms: in a modern dwelling and in any room there is something to plug into the power grid. One line will go to lighting. On the second there will be sockets in which you will need to turn on the computer, router, TV, phone charger. All of them are not very powerful and can be combined into one group. If you plan to install an air conditioner or will turn on an electric heater, you need separate lines.
If a private house is small - a summer house, for example, then there can be two or three groups in general: it is for all lighting fixtures, the second - for the street and the third - for all internal sockets. In general, the number of groups is an individual matter and depends most of all on the size of the house and the amount of electrical equipment in it.
By the number of groups received, the number of machines on the switchboard in the house is determined: to the received number of groups, add two to four for development (suddenly something important was forgotten, or something new powerful will need to be turned on, divide a group that is too large or far apart into two, etc.). The number of automata in it is also selected by the number of groups: a separate automaton goes to each group. If a private house is large - on several floors, it makes sense to put more powerful machines on each floor, and connect group machines to them.
Where to put the shield
The installation location of the electrical panel is not standardized by the regulations. There are only restrictions on the distance from the pipelines; it must be at least 1 meter away. Any pipes are taken into account: water supply, heating, sewerage, internal drains, gas pipelines and even gas meters.
There are no restrictions on premises. Many put a shield in: since the technical room, it is reasonable to collect all communications here. The receiving authorities make no claims. Sometimes it is more convenient to place the shield near the front door. If the protection class meets the requirements, there should be no complaints.
Selection of cables and accessories
The standard wiring diagram of a private house today includes two machines. One - input - is installed before the counter, usually on the street. It and the counter will be sealed upon commissioning. The second RCD machine is placed in the house in front of the shield. The tripping (shutdown) current of these devices is selected so that the machine installed in the house is turned off first (its current value is slightly less). Then, in case of emergency operation, you will not need to climb under the roof.
If the calculated load is less than 15 kW, the scheme is standard - RCD + automatic, counter and further division into groups. With a higher power consumption, it will be necessary to install a transformer, its parameters and the parameters of all equipment will be indicated in the project.
Recently, when connecting a private house to the mains, it is required to install a meter and a machine on the street. This requirement is not legally confirmed by anything, it’s just that it’s easier for the electric service to control consumption. If you want, you can fight, if not, choose a counter and an automatic machine in a case with increased dust and moisture protection - the protection class is not lower than IP-55. For installation inside a building, protection should be less - IP-44, and the price will be lower accordingly.
Cable selection
For electrical wiring in a private house, it is better to use cables, not wires. They have at least twice the insulation, so the laying requirements are not so strict, and it is safer to use them. All internal wiring should be done in a private house with. Previously, there were no such requirements, but now many electrical appliances have three-prong plugs and require grounding for safe operation. Therefore, the cable must be three-core.
In electrical cables, the conductors are made of copper or aluminum. Although aluminum is cheaper, it is used less often: it is hard, breaks more often, and is more difficult to work with. With self-wiring in a private house and lack of experience, this can become a problem. In addition, it cannot be used at all in wooden houses inside.
Determining the cross section of the cores
After you have decided on the material, you can choose the diameter of the cable cores. They do this depending on the planned load on the line according to the table.
Calculation of electrical wiring - the choice of the cross section of the cable cores is carried out according to this table
The cross section of the core is selected by current or by the power of all consumers connected to one machine. This is where the house electrification plan comes in handy again, where you have drawn consumer groups. Count the sum of the currents or powers of all devices and select the desired cross section of the wires according to the table.
How to use the table? If you decide to lay copper wires, the input voltage is 220 V, then the left part of it, the corresponding column, is suitable for internal wiring. It will compare the found power of all consumers connected to the group (it is easier to find and calculate it). In the part where we are talking about copper wires placed in trays, voids, channels, the column "220 V" find the nearest higher value. On this line, move to the right to the column “Section, sq. mm". The figure indicated here will be the required core size. From conductors of this diameter, it will be necessary to make electrical wiring from the machine to sockets or switches.
In order not to get confused when counting and laying, mark the conductors of the same diameter on the plan with a certain color (write it down so as not to forget what color they marked). After the diameter is determined for all consumer groups, the length of the required cables for each size is calculated, a margin of 20-25% is added to the figures found. You have calculated the wiring for your house.
Shell type selection
There are certain requirements for the type of sheath only when laying electricians in wooden houses: it is recommended to use triple (NYM) or double () cable insulation there. Houses made from less combustible materials can use any kind of insulation. The main thing is that it be intact, without cracks, sagging and other damage. If you want to play it safe, you can use conductors with enhanced protection. This makes sense in rooms with high humidity (kitchen, bathroom, swimming pool, sauna, etc.).
Choice of sockets and switches
For some powerful devices, sockets are selected according to the maximum (starting) current. For other low-power consumers, they are standard. You need to know what they are:
- External - when the case sticks out of the wall. They are easier to install: a substrate is attached to the wall, and a socket is attached to it from above. But few people use such models now, even in summer cottages. The reason is aesthetic: not the most attractive sight.
- Internal. Under the electrical part, a recess is made in the wall, a mounting box is installed and walled up in it. Inside this box is inserted the electrical part of the socket or switch.
It is indoor electrical sockets and switches that are most commonly used today. They are decorated in different styles, painted in different colors. They are selected mainly to match the finish, and if this is not possible, they are put in white.
Read how to connect walk-through switches (turn on / off the light from two or more places).
DIY wiring
Modern construction trends include hidden wiring. It can be laid in grooves specially made in the walls - strobes. After laying and fixing the cables, they are covered with putty, comparing with the surface of the rest of the wall. If the erected walls are then lined with sheet materials - drywall, GVL, etc., then strobes are not needed. The cables are laid in the gap between the wall and the finish, but in this case - only in corrugated sleeves. The sheath with laid cables is fastened with clamps to the structural elements.
When laying, you need to remember that the internal wiring of a private house is done in accordance with all the rules and recommendations. This is the only way to guarantee safety. The basic rules are:
- wiring only vertically and horizontally, no rounded corners or beveled routes;
- all joins must be made in ;
- horizontal transitions must be at a height of at least 2.5 meters, from them the cable goes down to the outlet or to the switch.
A detailed route plan, similar to the one in the photo above, must be saved. It will come in handy during the repair or modernization of wiring. You will need to check with him if somewhere nearby you need to ditch or make a hole, hammer in a nail. The main task is not to get into the cable.
A large percentage of wiring problems stem from poor wire connections. They can be done in several ways:
And still, the most reliable connection methods are welding and soldering. If it is possible to make the connection like this, we can assume that you will not have problems. At least with connections.
Do-it-yourself installation of electrical wiring in a house requires careful fulfillment of all requirements. This is a guarantee of your privacy and the safety of your private property.
After the wires from the machine to the point of connection of the socket or switch are laid, they are checked for integrity with a tester - the cores ring among themselves, checking the integrity of the conductors, and each individually to the ground - checking that the insulation is not damaged somewhere. If the cable is not damaged, proceed with the installation of the socket or switch. Having connected, they check it again with a tester. Then they can be started on the appropriate machine. Moreover, it is advisable to immediately sign the machine: it will be easier to navigate.
Having finished the electrical wiring throughout the house, having checked everything on their own, they call the specialists of the electrical laboratory. They check the condition of conductors and insulation, measure grounding and zero, and give you a test report (protocol) based on the results. Without it, you will not be given a commissioning permit.
