We carry out laying of a parquet board: technology and work procedure. Do-it-yourself parquet board Laying a one-strip parquet board

It would seem that due to the impressive size of the parquet board, its laying is much easier than parquet or laminate. This is not entirely true. This material, which has a pronounced layered structure, can easily fail even with minor violations of its laying technology. We have to reckon with the fact that this process is not easy, there are plenty of subtleties and nuances in it. Before the beginning independent work not only should the instructions for laying parquet boards from the manufacturer be thoroughly studied, but also the experience and advice of those who have professionally mastered this process should be taken into account.

What is parquet board

Outwardly, it resembles a laminate: the same oblong panel. Its standard sizes are:

length 1.8-2.4 m;
width 14-20 cm;
thickness 10-24 mm.

A distinctive feature of the division of parquet boards into groups is the structure of the base:

PD-1 - has a single-layer rack base, assembled into squares and rectangles, oriented perpendicular to each other (see Fig. 1a). Longitudinal edges are pasted over with laths.
PD-2 - has a single-layer lath base oriented along the axis of the board (see Fig. 1b).
PD-3 - has a two-layer base of laths oriented perpendicular to each other (see Fig. 1c and 1d).

Figure 1. Types of parquet board.

Another hallmark- number of plates:

One-strip parquet board (see Fig. 1d - 1).
Two-lane (see Fig. 1e - 2).
Three-lane (see Fig. 1e - 3).

This is a natural finishing material. For the manufacture of the outer layer, valuable and coniferous wood is used. The front side is usually covered with a transparent parquet varnish.

Before starting work, stock up on the necessary tools:

a saw with fine teeth;
square, tape measure, ruler and pencil;
a hammer and a block for tamping;
drill and drills;
wedges and braces.

Figure 2. Ways of laying a parquet board: 2a - ultralock, 2b - kombilok.

In the room where the laying is carried out, certain conditions must be maintained: humidity 40-60% and temperature 18-22 ºС. If laying on a heated floor, its temperature should be reduced to 18-20 ºС a day or two before the start of work. You can increase it to the usual values \u200b\u200b(but not higher than 28 ºС) two days after the end of the work.

Wood noticeably changes its dimensions with changes in humidity, therefore, a gap of about 1 cm wide should be left between the coating and the walls. Wedges give the coating reliability. There should also be gaps around the pipes. The finishing material must be kept in the room where the installation is to be done for at least two days. All this time it must remain in the package.

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floating laying method

The most popular method for rooms whose area does not exceed 60 m 2. This technology of laying a parquet plate implies that the base of the floor is well prepared, and the board has a good and reliable lock (see Fig. 2). There are several types of lock connections, but the two main ones are most common:

ultralock (Fig. 2a);
kombilok (Fig. 2b).

Most experts prefer the connection combilok. It is easier to assemble and more reliable to tear.

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Substrate surface preparation for laying

Figure 3. The technology of laying parquet boards.

For laying in this way, you need a solid, very even and dry base. These properties are typical for concrete screed and adjustable wood floors. Both options have their pros and cons:

the screed can be thin, which is especially important for low rooms;
communications can be laid under adjustable floors, but the height of the room is slightly reduced.

A parquet floor on an uneven base will squeak annoyingly, so leveling control must be careful, it is done using a long building or hydraulic level. The screed is best done on the basis of self-leveling mixtures. After laying and leveling, you need to give it about three weeks of exposure to gain strength and dry completely.

The basis of the adjustable floor is a durable plate made of moisture-resistant plywood, into which threaded adjusting legs are screwed. They can adjust the ideal horizontal position. Fast, convenient and reliable way. Another plus: on such a basis you can lead in any way.

For guard parquet flooring from moisture, a synthetic, composite or natural cork substrate must be laid under it. Its thickness should not be more than 2-3 mm. A special adhesive tape is used to seal the seams between the sheets of the substrate.

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The order and technology of laying

Figure 4. Ways of laying a parquet board: 4a - adhesive, 4b - at an angle, 4c - laying on a wooden base, 4d - laying on logs.

The first row of panels is laid with the left side of the lock (see Fig. 2) against the wall with a gap of about 1 cm and reinforced with wedges. The direction is taken along the falling from the window daylight. Each new row usually starts with the remainder of the previous one, if it is not less than 0.5 m. It is necessary to ensure that dirt and sand do not get into the lock joint. To finish off the docked boards, a wooden block can be used.

If desired, the lock joints of the boards can be glued. They do this not to fix the connections, but to protect against water spilled on the floor.

In order to outline the pipes, applying a board to them, they make markings (see Fig. 3a and 3b), drill holes with a diameter 2 cm larger than the diameter of the pipe and saw off the edge of the board (see Fig. 3c). Then the board is laid in place and the sawn-off segment is glued (see Fig. 3d). The edge of the hole can be closed with a suitable ring.

The boards of the last row are cut to the desired width, taking into account the expansion gap, the key edge is cut off from the groove of the boards of the penultimate row, and glue is applied to the groove. After that, the boards are carefully put into place with the help of a stop bracket. Expansion wedges are installed in the expansion gap.

At the end of laying, wedges are removed from the expansion gap around the entire perimeter of the floor and a plinth is installed. The plinth is attached only to the wall.

When choosing a multilayer floor covering from wood, buyers often pay attention to its service life. At the same time, without exception, manufacturers indicate that the finishing material will really last this period only if the rules for laying parquet boards are followed.

The developers of such well-known factories as Chers, Barlinek, Tarket and others are trying to improve their product, working in many respects not only on the appearance, but also on the installation system. To significantly speed up and facilitate the installation process, new lock kits are being developed. Today we can distinguish the following types:

Classic tongue-and-groove or Lock.
Click hitch - connection of planks at an angle of 10-30 °, followed by pressing to fasten the lamellas together.
5G system – volumetric fixation. Its names and basic characteristics may vary, but in general the principle is the same - an additional insert or “tongue” made of dense PVC or aluminum is built into the end lock. This component gives the hitch rigidity and strength, prevents seasonal divergence of the bars, and increases the service life of the coating.

The type of locking system depends on how to properly lay the parquet board. Each package of quality flooring material always contains detailed instructions on installation, answering all the questions of a novice or experienced master.

Let us dwell on the methods of assembling a multilayer wood flooring. Includes:

"Floating" (independent). The floor is assembled exclusively on its own locks, without bonding to the base. it best option if it is planned to lay the parquet board with your own hands.
Glue. One-component elastic polymer-based compounds (polyurethane, MS and others) are used. The adhesive is applied to any type of screed, including cement and dry prefabricated chipboard, OSB, plywood, etc.
On fastener. It is used for rigid fixation of each plank to the base. In this case, special “parquet” (finishing) hardware, air studs (complete with an air gun) or classic dowel-nails are needed.

The scheme of laying the parquet board is standard - with an offset of 1/3. That is, each subsequent row is shifted relative to the previous one by a third of the length of the bar. This will allow you to form a strong, reliable and durable circular “strapping” of all lamellas.

How to lay a parquet board: starting with the basics

The quality of installation of parquet flooring directly depends on how carefully the base is prepared. Criteria:

Floors formed on the ground;
Logs, if under the base base there are too raw or warm rooms(boiler room, boiler room, laundry, basement, etc.);
Systems of water, soft electric or infrared heating;
Aerated concrete beams.

Features of laying parquet boards are not limited to this list. It is necessary to take into account that:

Advice! Remember that beech or maple floors are subject to active deformation, so they should not be placed on the "warm floor" system.

You will need the following materials and tools for laying parquet boards:

Do-it-yourself parquet board laying: step by step instructions

We describe the installation process in stages.

Foundation preparation

First of all, all old coatings are completely removed without exception. If, according to the results of measurements, floor leveling is required, then for mineral bases you can use:

Self-levelling self-leveling floors on a cement-gypsum or gypsum basis;
Dry prefabricated screed from sheet materials (plywood, chipboard and others).

The finished base is checked for evenness with a control rail more than 2 m long, with a hygrometer for humidity. If the base defects are small, then they are filled with quick-drying repair compounds or a cement-sand mixture.

The screed must be primed before work:

Adhesive compounds, if gluing a parquet board is supposed;
Strengthening compositions, if the coating is laid in a "floating" way.

For a wooden base, the scheme of work is somewhat different. Irregularities (differences, "humps") should be cut off or eliminated with a parquet grinder. Pits, chips must be leveled with elastic putties, and if there are squeaks, “pull” the subfloor to the base with self-tapping screws or nails. In case of multiple defects, it is better to form a new prefabricated screed from chipboard or plywood sheets with a thickness of 16 mm or more. Top is treated with a fungicidal primer.

Preparation for work

After the end of the "wet" work on the prepared surface under the parquet board, a waterproofing and substrate material is laid. That is, neatly, without creases, a film is spread on the floor with an overlap of 15-25 cm, fixed with adhesive tape. Then the sheet or roll substrate is already laid end-to-end. At adhesive method installation, this step is skipped.

Since the parquet board must "acclimatize", the packaged material must be kept indoors for 24 to 36 hours. Experts recommend warming up the floor heating system for 2 weeks before starting installation work, then turn it off 3-4 hours before laying. This will allow you to create the right climate in the premises, to avoid thermal damage to the finish.

Advice! Wood is a natural product, therefore variations in shade and texture are possible. This should not be frightened, it is better to turn it to your advantage - open several packages in advance, lay out the lamellas on the base and form a pattern that is beautiful in your opinion.

The next step is to carefully measure the floor and plan the work. To lay the parquet board as evenly as possible, draw a laying diagram to scale on a piece of paper. The width of the last row should not be less than 5 cm. In this case, a proportional displacement of the first one is necessary.

Floor covering installation

Laying in a "floating" way starts from the longest wall from left to right. Expansion wedges are placed around the perimeter. Some experts recommend doing this after assembling the first three rows: the finished coating is shifted with a bracket and spacers are inserted into the resulting gaps.

The assembly itself begins with the fact that the protruding part of the lock is cut off from the planks of the first row, then the first one is installed in the corner and the installation begins along the end edge. The end plate can be trimmed if necessary. The next row is formed from the rest of the lamella of the previous one. For the parquet board of the classic Click-lock, first the end couplers are connected, then the joining is done along the length with the obligatory knocking out with an impact block.

Note that it is much more convenient to work with Lock and 5G connections. They can be joined as needed both longitudinally and across, which is shown in the video below.

For some types of three-dimensional lock, it is not necessary to additionally adjust the plastic insert. It is enough to click the plates correctly.

The last row of boards must be carefully sized (cut), then assembled by end locks and inserted into the gap between the wall and the outer row. The laid parquet must be pressed with a metal bracket or a wringer.

If the edge of the bar rests against a pipe or other similar obstacle, then the cut line is marked with a pencil, a piece is sawn off, a hole is drilled with a compensation margin of at least 10-16 mm. The lamella is put in place, an adhesive composition is applied to the cut and the cut element is glued.

After the assembly is completed, the wedges must be removed, the floor heating system must be turned on, gradually raising the temperature, the decorative plinth and thresholds in the doors must be mounted. The formation of gaps in the openings between rooms is not a whim, but a requirement of manufacturers.

When installing a parquet board with an adhesive method, the procedure will be slightly different:

Apply to the prepared base. adhesive composition and spread evenly with a notched trowel.
At the boards of the first row, cut the edge.
Assemble the coating in the standard manner, knocking it down with a bar and loading it with a load for better adhesion or fixing it with hardware that is “driven” into the lock groove at an angle of 45 °. In the same way, the parquet is fastened to the base with nails or air gun studs without an adhesive compound.

After completing all the work, many manufacturers recommend washing the floor with special products for parquet and parquet boards so that the wax contained in them securely seals all joints.

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parquet board in last years has become a very popular coating, as it is one of the most aesthetic materials for flooring. It is suitable for flooring in almost any room of the house or apartment, with the exception of the bathroom (due to high humidity). Nevertheless, with the acquisition of high-quality flooring, its proper installation and following the recommendations for use, even in a damp room, a parquet board can last a long time.

In any case, it is not enough to acquire a high-quality coating - its durability depends on proper styling. Call the master? - it can be expensive, comparable to the cost of the material. Maybe you should try doing this yourself? Why not, if you apply your skills and diligence. So, laying a parquet board with your own hands is a step-by-step instruction with illustrations.

What is a parquet board?

The structure of the parquet board

First of all, let's remember once again what lies under the term "parquet board".

This type of coating, as an alternative, was patented back in 1941. During its development, a higher resistance to external influences was achieved, with a significant reduction in the cost of the material. Initially, the parquet board consisted of two layers. Subsequently, with the advent of innovative technologies, it was repeatedly modernized, however, the material of its manufacture remained unchanged - natural wood. Thanks to this, this flooring has remained very popular for many decades. In particular, the parquet board has become popular recently, when eco-style is reviving in designer fashion.

Today, as a rule, three-layer parquet boards go on sale, which first appeared on the market in 1946 and turned out to be much more practical than the original version. The Tarkett company began to produce this coating, which to this day supplies its products around the world, while remaining a leader in this field of production.

The strength and durability of this flooring is due to the structural structure of the board. Each of the layers of the "pie" has different thickness. Well, the position of the wood fibers in each of the subsequent layers have a direction perpendicular to the previous one. In the lower and upper layers, the fibers run along the board, and in the middle, respectively, across. It is this arrangement that gives the material strength and eliminates the risk of deformation.

The top layer of the parquet board is made of high quality hardwood. The layer is not only decorative - it has excellent wear resistance, has a thickness of at least four millimeters. Since the quality of this material depends appearance parquet boards, the wood for the top layer is carefully selected. The lamellas from which the board is made must not have any defects. They are selected according to the textured pattern, as well as according to color shade. The slats are adjusted to each other, glued together, and then fixed to the base also with glue. Some models of parquet boards have a solid coating made of high quality natural veneer. They are also called single-strip boards.
For the manufacture of the middle layer, coniferous wood is usually used. The blanks have semi-vertical or vertical annual rings, which are able to evenly distribute the load and give increased stability to the material. This layer consists of equally wide (20 ÷ 30 mm) perfectly processed dies, which are laid across. The thickness of the middle layer is 7÷8 mm. On it, as a rule, lock connections are located - figured grooves and spikes.
The bottom layer consists of one or two whole boards and is stabilizing. It creates a reliable and stable support for the upper structure and prevents its deflection. The thickness of this layer is no more than 4 mm.

The surface of the outer layer of the finished parquet board is carefully polished, and then covered with protective and decorative compounds, which are applied in several layers - this is putty, then a primer, lining and decorative varnish, which, after application, hardens under the influence of ultraviolet radiation. Thanks to the outer layer, the finished coating becomes resistant to fading and mechanical damage. Such a floor covering does not need additional varnishing after laying.

parquet board prices

parquet board

Advantages and disadvantages of parquet board

Like any other floor covering, parquet boards have their advantages and disadvantages. They are best viewed by comparing it with other popular floor coverings.

The main advantage of a parquet board, in comparison with linoleum and laminate, is its environmental friendliness, since it is made only from natural wood.
The parquet board, with high-quality installation, is indistinguishable from natural parquet, and a film with a textured wood pattern is applied to linoleum and laminate. In the best case, the laminate can be covered with natural veneer glued to MDF.
In a parquet board, solid wood is used only for the top layer, and block parquet It is made entirely of natural wood, but it also costs several times more than the first. However, the parquet board is more resistant to deformation processes than the parquet, as it has the construction described above - the alternation of layers with different directions fibers. Parquet is rather moody material that requires periodic maintenance, and if everything is left to chance, the wood may swell from high humidity or begin to dry out when there is not enough moisture. As a result, parquet slabs begin to deform - to bend and warp.
Compared to the same parquet, the parquet board is much faster and more convenient to lay, as it has a large size. In addition, laying the board does not require special skills. It is enough to have a ready-made even base for coatings and instructions for its installation.

It is not so easy to lay parquet, and therefore professional masters, whose work is quite expensive, are engaged in its flooring.

In the case when any mistakes were made when laying the parquet board, they can be corrected if the material was not mounted on glue. With parquet, making corrections will be much more difficult.
Unlike parquet, parquet board goes on sale with applied protective coating and can be used for a long time without additional processing. Parquet, after its flooring, requires scraping, and then coating with special oil or
A parquet board can imitate parquet, the slabs of which are laid in rows with a shift relative to each other, and also in the form of plank floorboards.
The parquet board perfectly imitates the wooden floor. And the latter is rarely made of valuable wood, as it costs too much. But a parquet board covered with a layer of expensive wood will cost much less.
The service life of a parquet board is 20÷30 years, depending on the quality and timeliness of its care, as well as on the accuracy and intensity of its operation. In contrast, parquet and massive board have a longer service life, but require more careful maintenance - paint scraping or coating with varnish or oil. However, it must be clarified that the parquet board can also be sanded to renew it. And some of its models, which have thick enough the top layer is 6 mm, can be sanded 10 or even more times.

Linoleum prices

linoleum

To summarize, we can conclude that the design of the parquet board is less whimsical to maintain than parquet, and also positively differs from laminate and linoleum in its environmental friendliness. The price of a parquet board cannot be called low, however, you can install it yourself, while it is unlikely that you can cope with the laying of natural parquet on your own.

Substrate preparation for parquet flooring

Parquet flooring can be laid on various substrates - concrete floors, plank or plywood floors, and even on old, but durable, tiled floors. ceramic tiles. The main thing is that the base is even, without protrusions and large recesses, so the surface must be carefully prepared.

AT preparations Before laying a parquet board, there are several points, without which it is impossible to obtain a high-quality floor covering.

The first step is a thorough revision of the foundation. If cracks, depressions or protrusions are found, they must be eliminated. Cracks widen and are filled with concrete or other composite repair mortar (special putty). Separate recesses are also leveled with concrete, and big enough protrusions are broken. Small flaws can be smoothed out by laying a special substrate on the floors.
In addition, the surface of the base is checked for evenness using a building level. It is permissible that the irregularities are 2 ÷ 2.5 mm per one running meter, but no more than that.
If the quality of the base does not fit into the permissible errors, then alignment will have to be arranged. Depending on the type of floor, you can use a screed for this (for example,), or you can bring the floor into a horizontal plane with lags and then attach plywood or boards to them.

If only minor flaws in the floor are found, which still need to be leveled, this can also be done by fixing plywood sheets to the concrete base, laying them according to the principle “ brickwork", that is, in a run. Sheets can be screwed or glued to concrete.

Laminate prices

Before laying parquet boards or plywood directly on concrete, the base must be well primed to strengthen the surface and prevent dust.
If the board is to be laid directly on concrete surface, then a substrate is laid under it.

Foamed polyethylene, thin sheets of extruded polystyrene, cork material in slabs and rolls are used as this layer.

A cork sheet or slab substrate is most often glued to the base, as it not only smooths out small irregularities, but also acts as a heater.

Both roll and board materials are laid end to end.

It is not recommended to use an old carpet or carpet as a substrate, as well as linoleum, as this material can deform and pull parquet boards along with it. In addition, the old flooring absorbs various odors during its operation, which the new parquet board cannot hide.

You need to prepare not only materials, but also tools for performing work. The list of items required for installation includes:

- an electric jigsaw, a circular saw or a hacksaw with a fine tooth pitch;

- rubber mallet - for tamping rows;

- screwdriver;

- rule and building level;

- square and tape measure;

- regular and notched trowels;

- a special bracket for pulling boards. It can be purchased at ready-made or make it yourself from a steel strip 4 ÷ 5 mm thick.

- tamping bar. It can also be "store-bought" or homemade;

- expansion wedges.

Having prepared everything you need, you need to once again conduct a conscientious cleaning. In particular, the floor surface before laying any material must be carefully. Any small pebble that accidentally remains under the surface can seriously harm the overall quality of the resulting floor.

Features of laying parquet boards

Before moving on to the step-by-step instructions for installing parquet flooring, it’s worth talking a little about some of the nuances of its installation, which you also need to have information about.

The first thing to remember is that the parquet board purchased and brought into the house must be aged in the room where it will subsequently be laid. This is especially important to consider if the purchase was made in the cold season, and the temperature difference between the room and the street is quite large. In the room where the coating will be laid, the air temperature should be at least 18 degrees, and the humidity should be 30 ÷ 60%. For “tracking down”, it is better to free the board from the factory polymer packaging.

Before proceeding to the preparation of the floors and the installation of the coating, it is necessary to draw up in advance an approximate layout of the board, taking into account its length and width. Thanks to this drawing, it will be easier to navigate when laying. It becomes possible to immediately determine the most successful size of the cut boards, which are usually laid along both edges of the row or only on one side of it.
Segments of boards, reported in a row, must have a length of at least 500 mm.
When drawing up a diagram, you also need to take into account the width of the boards of the last row, since they usually have to be cut. If they have a width of less than 60 mm, then the coating should be moved a little, that is, cutting the boards not only of the last, but also of the first row.
Parquet boards are laid "in a run". This means that the boards of the second row are offset by ½ or ⅓ of the length relative to the first row.
Given the features and shape of the room, the location is chosen, that is, the direction of laying the boards, which determines the pattern.

- The easiest option, which is most often chosen for laying, is to mount the board along or across the room. At the same time, it is worth considering that if the board is laid across the room, it will visually make it wider, and the longitudinal installation will lengthen it. Such an "optical game" will help solve the problem of a room that is too long or narrow.

Prices for flooring under parquet

underlay for parquet

- The second installation option is a diagonal masonry. It is more complex in execution and involves a lot of waste, which means that the cost of buying a board will be increased, as more her amount. This installation method is great for flooring in square rooms and visually expands the space of the room. When making diagonal masonry, the end edges of the boards extreme to the wall are cut off clearly, at an angle of 45 or 30 degrees. Installation of the coating begins from the middle of the room. To do this, along the diagonal of the room - from corner to corner, a line is drawn or a cord is pulled, along which the first row of the coating is laid. Then, the masonry continues first in one and then in the other direction from the central row.

Technology of installation of a parquet board

Understanding technological ways flooring of this coating, you need to consider all aspects.

So, the parquet board can be laid in three ways - "floating" masonry, on glue or on logs. To decide which one is suitable for a particular case, you need to find out what they are, deal with their advantages and disadvantages.

"Floating" parquet flooring

Such laying of a parquet board is carried out without fixing the coating to the base. Well, its solidity is achieved only through locking joints located along the edges of the boards.

Such installation includes several stages, which will be discussed in detail in the instruction table below. Now we can only dwell on the positive and negative aspects of this method.

To "pros" This technology can include:

Simplicity and speed of laying.
Possibility to correct errors made during installation.
Possibility to replace individual floor boards in case of damage.
Ease of dismantling the board and the possibility of recycling. For example, the coating is tired or has lost its relevance or aesthetics, so it was decided to replace it. The board can be easily removed and transferred to the dacha, where it can be put back into one of the rooms.
The resistance of the floating coating to temperature fluctuations, as the design has the ability to expand the material.
Savings on the purchase of glue.
The floating cover can be operated immediately after the completion of the installation work.

"Cons" this method of laying can be considered:

"Floating" coating is not suitable for installation in rooms with an area of more than 50 "squares".
It is not recommended for laying in rooms where a high load will be placed on the floors.
The coating is sensitive even to small irregularities, so it is necessary under it. However, this material will cost less than special glue.

Adhesive way to install parquet boards

The name of this installation method speaks for itself. That is, with this approach, the parquet board is laid on a special glue applied to the base.

And When purchasing glue, you need to make sure that it is suitable for a particular type of parquet board.

Installation according to this technique is carried out in stages. Wherein special meaning acquires a strict adherence to all technological recommendations tested by masters and proven their importance.

The adhesive installation method is used if the board is planned to be laid on a concrete coating, which must be well primed before starting work. If the apartment is located on the ground floor of the house, where there is a high probability of moisture penetrating floors and walls, then it is best to impregnate the floors with a deep penetration waterproofing compound that will protect surfaces from moisture and mold. The primer must be applied not only on the floors, but also on the lower part of the walls, with a strip of 100 ÷ 120 mm. If the solution will be applied in several layers, then each of them must be well dried.
The next step, along one of the walls, a parquet board is laid, between it and the wall, at a distance of about 400 ÷ 500 mm from each other, special plastic or wooden inserts are installed that will provide a compensation gap. They allow the flooring material to expand as the room temperature rises, keeping the flooring level.

Further, adjusting the length of the last board in the row (how this is done will be shown in the table below), glue is applied to the floor surface with a spatula over an area 80 ÷ 100 mm wide more than the outer line of the row. After application, the adhesive is spread over the surface with a notched trowel.
Now it's time to lay the parquet board on the glue layer. It must immediately be precisely joined to each other using locking joints - this process is carried out in the same way when laying the board in any of the three ways.

When the entire row of boards is laid, in some cases the coating can be additionally fixed to the floor using self-tapping screws, through pre-drilled holes in the grooves. Holes are drilled in increments of 300÷350 mm.
Then the adhesive mass is again applied to the concrete base and distributed over its surface.
In the second row, the board is laid with a shift of half (or 1/3) relative to the already glued board. First, the boards are joined along the length, and then connected to the elements of the first row, after which it is fixed with self-tapping screws to the base.

If two rows do not fit snugly against each other, that is, if there is a gap between them, a smooth bar is attached to the edge of the outer row, on which, carefully, so as not to break the lock connection on the parquet board, they tap rubber mallet. Melted tapping is carried out until the gap becomes almost invisible.
In this way, the entire floor covering is glued.
Do not allow glue to get on the front side of the parquet board. If this happens, then the drops are immediately removed - for this, a clean rag should always be at hand.
When the surface of the floor of the room is completely covered with parquet, the coating must be left to dry for 2-3 days, without giving it any load. It is necessary to consider measures to exclude even an accidental passage into the room. The drying time of the glue, as a rule, the manufacturer indicates on the packaging.
After the glue under the coating is completely dry, the seams between the boards must be treated with an acrylic transparent sealant, which will reduce the risk of moisture from getting under the boards from the outside.
When the sealant has completely hardened, you can remove the inserts along the walls, proceed with the installation of skirting boards, as well as an interior threshold.

It must be said that the adhesive method of fastening is selected if the floor surface has small irregularities that can be corrected with a layer of glue. Therefore, when installing a parquet board using a similar technology, you need to carefully press it to the floor surface.

To positive aspects adhesive mounting coatings include:

The possibility of using this material on any size areas.
Higher resistance to increased loads.
The method is suitable for mounting a parquet board on top of a screed, equipped above a warm water floor.

To shortcomings adhesive laying include:

The cost of purchasing glue.
Possibility of operation of the premises only when the glue is completely dry.
More complex installation of the coating.
The impossibility of correcting the mistakes made in the masonry.
Difficulty replacing damaged boards.

Installation of parquet boards on logs

Laying a parquet board on can be done in two ways - fixing it directly on the logs or on the wall on them plywood.

If the first installation option is chosen, then it must be taken into account that the thickness of the parquet board must be at least 22 mm. Only in this case, it is guaranteed that it will not bend under external load. In addition, lags must have large enough width (about 80 ÷ 90 mm) and fit on the base with a small step - usually 400 mm. The parquet board, which is fixed directly to the logs, is laid perpendicular to them. Board joints in one row are made in the middle of the lag width.

The second option involves fixing the lag to the base in increments of 500 ÷ 600 mm, since plywood sheets with a thickness of at least 20 mm are laid on them before laying the board.

Both one and the other installation option is convenient if the floors need to be insulated or leveled by setting the lags in a horizontal plane according to the level.

Logs, selected under the flooring of the parquet board, must be well and properly dried. There should be no deformation of the timber or board, otherwise the finished floor may begin to creak over time.

Prices for parquet glue

parquet adhesive

Depending on how much you plan to raise the clean floor above the base, the logs can be fixed directly to the base, or raised above it and leveled with special racks or studs.

If the floors along the logs are arranged in a private house or in an apartment located on the ground floor of a high-rise building, then a concrete base is a must waterproof. This can be done using special coating solutions, impregnations, a dense plastic film or roofing material.

Logs are fixed on top of the waterproofing, between which insulation material is laid, which is covered with a dust-proof film. It is especially important to take this into account if mineral wool is used as a heater.

Then, along the logs with the help of self-tapping screws, sheets of plywood are fixed, between which a compensation gap of 2.5 ÷ 3 mm should be provided. Mounting screws are screwed into the logs through the plywood coating in increments of 150 ÷ 180 mm. The edge of each plywood sheet should be in the middle of the log.

Installation of a parquet board using "floating" technology - step by step instructions

Due to the fact that the most popular way of laying a parquet board is its "floating" version, it will be considered in the table below - from the beginning of the work to its final.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	So, the first step is laid on a leveled and primed base waterproofing material. In the case under consideration, a polyethylene film was chosen for this purpose. The illustration clearly shows that the waterproofing is laid not only on the horizontal surface of the floor, but also on the walls - it is raised by about 100 mm. It is not necessary to fix the waterproofing on the walls, however, if a thin material is chosen that will fall to the floor and interfere with work, then it can be temporarily fixed to the wall with masking tape. But still it would be better to choose thick film- this will reduce the time for work, which will be required for its gluing.
	The next step, a substrate is laid on the waterproofing material. In this case, dense foamed polyethylene is chosen, but it may well be replaced with cork roll or plate material. First, only one backing sheet is laid roll type along the wall, from which the installation of the parquet board will begin, since if you cover the room completely, it will interfere with work, moving one way or the other. Usually, the flooring is laid from the left corner of the room, no matter how its installation is planned - along or across the room.
	After that, a pre-compiled scheme for laying the material is taken and prepared spacer wedges, which must be temporarily installed between the wall and the parquet board. The thickness of the spacer wedges should be 10÷15 mm.
	The next step is to lay the first parquet board. It is temporarily pressed against the walls to determine the evenness of its position.
	Now it's time to create an expansion gap between the wall and the flooring material. It is created using spacer wedges installed on all sides of the board, bordering the walls. The board is pressed tightly against these wedges. The step between the wedges along the long side of the board should be about 500 mm.
	Next, laying the second board of the first row. It is fastened to the first by means of a docking lock.
	Docking locks from different manufacturers may vary somewhat, but usually when connected, they seem to snap together.
	It is important that the second and subsequent boards are set exactly to the width of the previous board. If one of them is shifted to the outside, the next row will not be able to dock with the previous one. This illustration clearly shows how the connection of two boards along the length of the row should look.
	Having laid out the first row almost completely, except for the last board, which, as a rule, has to be cut, using a tape measure or a metal ruler, measure the distance from the wall to the end of the laid board. At the same time, I take into account the fact that it is necessary to leave a compensation gap of 10 ÷ 15 mm, which was mentioned above. Therefore, in order to avoid accidental errors during measurement, it is best to attach a spacer wedge to the wall and measure the distance already from it.
	The next step, a whole board is applied to the end of the first row, then it is turned face down and the length of the desired segment is laid on its wrong side. Further, according to the mark on the building corner, a line perpendicular to the edges is drawn, along which a cut is made using a circular saw or an electric jigsaw.
	The prepared segment is joined to the rest of the boards of the first row, while expansion wedges are also installed along the wall.
	The second part of the board, from which a piece was cut to complete the first row, very often begins the second row (if the length of this segment allows). It connects to the first row of the castle, located along the long side of the board.
	Next, the second board of the second row is laid. The complexity of its installation lies in the fact that it must be fastened with locks to the previous and adjacent board. Some joints are designed to join the boards first along the length of the row, and then fasten the second row to the first. Others, as shown in the illustration, are first joined to the board of the first row, and then connected to the previous board. In the same way, the entire floor covering is laid. However, probably in any room there are places that complicate the work.
	So that the board lies neatly near the front door, and the threshold is in its opening, at the bottom of the door frame it is washed down to the wall, as shown in the photo. However, the board does not yet fit into place, as it can be damaged by further actions.
	The next step is to mark the location of the threshold, which will press the edges of the boards in the doorway. To do this, it is necessary to lay a sub-threshold along the width of the opening, on which the threshold will then be fixed. Along it, from the side of the parquet to be laid, it is necessary to draw a sharp knife in order to cut off a strip of the substrate material, which will interfere with the tight fit of the footboard to the base.
	Further, through the mounting holes provided in the footboard, marks are made with a marker or pencil. Then the footrest is removed, and holes are drilled along the markings.
	Plastic dowel plugs are inserted into the holes. Then, a footrest is installed in place, which is fixed with self-tapping screws screwed through the holes into the dowel-plugs located in the base.
	Next, you can prepare a place for mounting the board, which will go into the groove cut in the door frame. Since the board, due to its installation in the gap, cannot be lifted and fastened with a lock, as happened during the installation of the remaining boards, part of the lock is removed from the already laid board with a chisel. This process will have to be done not only along the length of the board, but also along its width.
	Then, carpentry or other glue is applied to the cut sections of the boards with a strip, designed to fasten wooden parts.
	Now the board is slipped into the gap under door frame and advances to the already laid coating. The edges of the board are pressed tightly against the cut lock lines with glue applied to them.
	If necessary, the board to be glued can be knocked out through the beam provided for this, using a hammer, since there should not be a gap in the connection of the board with the main coating. Similar operations will need to be performed on the other side of the doorway.
	The next step is to lay the rest of the boards, leaving one edge into the doorway. They are laid with an edge on a footrest fixed with self-tapping screws. After that, the edges of the boards are pressed from above with a threshold, which is screwed together with the boards to the footboard. Thus, the edges of the boards will be fixed to the base, and also sandwiched between the two metal strips of the threshold.
	If you plan to continue laying the parquet board and next room, then instead of a metal nut, you can install a plastic docking profile. To do this, its lower part is fixed to the base, and after laying the boards, the gap between them is covered with a profile that joins with the bottom one. At the same time, it must be remembered that a compensation gap of 4 ÷ 5 mm must be provided between the lower profile element and the boards.
	Another rather difficult area for parquet flooring is heating pipes that go into the interfloor ceiling. Of course, you can finish the board by reaching the pipes, and also put a piece of floor material behind them, along the wall, but such laying will look extremely sloppy. In addition, dust will collect in the remaining gap, as well as between the pipes. Solving this problem is quite simple by laying the board in front of the pipes and noting their location along its width.
	Then the board is moved and laid next to the pipes, and with the help of a building square, a line for the location of the risers is outlined on it, which will cross the previously marked lines.
	Thus, points will be found at which holes will need to be drilled.
	To drill holes, you will need a drill bit of the desired diameter. For this version of the pipes shown in the picture, a 30 mm diameter bit was used.
	The next step is to cut along a line across the board. The cut should go through the middle of the round holes. Now you can assemble the resulting structure into a single coating. To do this, the cut off part of the board is wound behind the pipes and installed so that the semicircles are located near the back of the pipes.
	Then, waterproof wood glue is applied to the end of the board, after which, the rest of the board moves to the front of the pipes and joins with the segment, that is, it is pressed against the end on which the glue is applied. After that, the gaps remaining between the pipes and the board are closed with special decorative frames that look like donuts. These masking pieces have connectors that allow them to be split in two and installed with different parties pipes, and then assembled into a single structure. These elements will not only close the gaps from dust entering them, but also give the passage of pipes through the floor covering a neat appearance.
	Many craftsmen, who are installing parquet boards for the first time, have problems when laying its last row. The difficulty is that you need to manage to dock the board or its trimmed part with the rest of the coating.
	In case of loose pressing of the boards of the last to the previous row, it must be tightened with a special device called a bracket. It is inserted into the gap between the board and the wall, and then tapped on its second, bent up edge. Knocking is carried out until the board is firmly pressed against the rest of the coating and snaps into place.
	After pulling up the last row of flooring, you can remove the spacer wedges and move on to installing and fixing the skirting brackets to the wall.
	These parts can have a different shape, and they are selected depending on what kind of plinth it is planned to arrange the floor covering. The brackets are fixed to the wall with a step of 400÷500 mm.
	The plinth can have a flat or curly shape. As a rule, a cable channel for communications is provided on its inside. Therefore, before installing the plinth into the brackets, cables are laid into it.
	Now it remains to install the plinth in place. It can simply snap onto the brackets or be screwed to them. If the latter option is selected, then a blank strip is temporarily removed from the middle part of the element, which will open the channel through which the skirting boards will be fixed to the brackets. Then, a strip returns to its place, which will disguise the caps of the mounting screws. Important - the plinth may have a different design, fastened in a different way. But its fixation should never be carried out to the flooring - only to the wall!
	At the last stage, using a sharp knife, the waterproofing material protruding above the plinth is carefully cut off. The knife must be very sharp so that the film can be cut easily, as pressing on the wall can damage its finish.
	The result of the work done will be a neat, warm and very practical floor covering that will last, with proper care, for many years.

Now, after careful study submitted above the material, you can proceed to the practical implementation of the recommendations given in it. As you can see from the step-by-step instructions, it is quite possible to make a “floating” laying of a parquet board on your own, having leveled and properly prepared the base for its installation.

And at the end, traditionally - a small video that demonstrates the process of laying a parquet board on a plywood base.

Video: Adhesive method of laying a parquet board on a plywood base

The parquet board was popular at all times. And today's fashion does not bypass it. At the same time, if you install the parquet board with your own hands, you can significantly save on repairs. Let's try to understand this issue in more detail.

Rules and subtleties

The first copies of this building material were presented to the world in the early 40s of the last century. A small company from Sweden set itself the task of producing an equivalent analogue to expensive parquet. The second task was the desire to significantly speed up the process of laying the floor, since with a small parquet it was necessary to sweat a lot.

The presented board consisted of two layers and was not widely used. The prototype of the modern coating appeared on the construction markets eight years later. And its main difference from its predecessor was the appearance of another layer.

To date, the dimensions of the parquet board have differences depending on the manufacturer. Its length in its minimum dimensions is two meters, in its maximum - 2.6 m. The width starts at 13.9 cm and ends at 21 cm. The average thickness is 14 mm.

A three-layer board consists of a stabilizing layer, a base layer and a top layer. The bottom layer protects the product from concrete base. It is made from spruce veneer. Additionally, it prevents the board from deforming.

The central layer is made from pine. Special strips are laid out across the entire width of the product. And the top layer is directly responsible for the drawing. Depending on the price, these can be expensive and less expensive breeds. valuable tree. Among them are oak, maple and alder. In African countries, cocobolo and mahogany are used. Fix the slats to the board with glue.

The fibers of the main layer are not parallel, but perpendicular to each other. Due to this, good fixation is achieved and the building material is not deformed.

The base can be tinted or whitened to give certain shades. Heat treatment and brushing are also carried out.

The top layer may consist of polyurethane, oil or wax. Some manufacturers additionally cover with alkyd varnish. Since the front layer is sanded and varnished, this building material becomes wear-resistant, moisture-resistant and serves long term. The main thing is to properly install it.

It is very important to pay attention to what exactly the parquet board will be laid on. The floor must be leveled, capital, without chips and depressions. Only a minimal drop is allowed, otherwise the board will not hold.

No need to tempt fate and lay parquet board in rooms with high humidity- bathrooms, kitchens, pools. Otherwise, the laid floor will quickly become unusable.

After transporting the building material, it is necessary to let it get used to the temperature and humidity of the room. Usually, experts wait about two days, after which they proceed with the installation. In this case, the temperature in the room should be above or equal to 17 degrees, and the humidity should be moderate.

Like laminate flooring, parquet boards are laid along the sun's rays, thus hiding seams and minor defects. Do not forget about the substrate. It acts as a noise canceling material.

Tools and fixtures

Start laying the parquet board only after measuring the humidity in the room. Its performance should not exceed sixty percent. A device called a hygrometer helps to make measurements.

A set of tools designed for parquet board installation:

Electric jigsaw. For household suitable for use conventional electric jigsaw, produced in South Korea, Japan, the countries of the European Union or the United States of America. In the hardware store you can find good copies of domestic manufacturers. The main thing is that the power of the device should be at least 550 watts.
Hammer or mallet. It is not necessary that this hand tool was from a well-known manufacturer, for domestic needs, anyone who is at hand will fit.
Roulette and square. Suitable for measuring work.
Pencil. You can use the construction one, you can use the usual one.
mounting bar. With this device, you can reduce the load on the interlocks and on the parquet board itself. Cracks and chips in this case are excluded.

Wedges. They are used as limiters between a wall, a door and a parquet board. Remember that it is unacceptable to lay building materials without limiters, otherwise, at the time of temperature and humidity changes, the board may fail.
Cutters and staples. Required to secure the last row.
Hacksaw. A wood saw may be required when fitting the last boards.
Perforator. With its help, holes are drilled for docking at the location of the heating system. The first holes are made with this tool, and the subsequent work is done with a jigsaw.
miter box. Will be indispensable assistant when installing skirting boards.
sealant and notched trowel.

Types and methods

The floating method of laying flooring is the most popular all over the world. Of the restrictions, only the size of the room can be called - it should not be more than 60 square meters. m. In this case, the base must be leveled, and the parquet board must have either a lock connection, or an ultralock, or a combo.

The second method of laying parquet boards is on polyurethane adhesive. With it, the concrete base must be leveled, the surface must be dried and dry. The moisture content of the screed should not exceed three percent. Special sheets of plywood are laid on the screed, which are subsequently polished.

The glue is applied to the surface using a spatula, the parquet board is knocked out with a bar to improve the effect. The glue dries in about 24 hours. But remember that some manufacturers advise using their own adhesive mixtures, so it's best to familiarize yourself with the manufacturer's recommendations in advance.

In some cases, experts resort to a screwdriver and self-tapping screws. If you fix the board with self-tapping screws at a certain angle, then it will fit securely to the base. This method is known among stackers as mechanical.

The methods of fastening the board were discussed above, now it is worth familiarizing yourself with the methods of laying it.

The parquet board is easiest to lay either along or across the room. Often this method is chosen, since installation does not require certain skills and experience. If you lay the parquet board along - along the length, then the room will visually become longer, and if across, then vice versa, it will increase in width.

Mirrors will help enhance this visual effect. This must be taken into account in rooms of non-standard shape.

Diagonal masonry is only possible for professionals in their field. It is less economical than paving along or across, as it produces a sufficient amount of trimmings. From a design point of view, the diagonal laying method is best applied in square rooms. You will need a miter saw to make the right cut. The saw cut angle should be equal in some places to 45 degrees, in others - 30 degrees.

Laying starts in the center of the room. To maintain a straight line, it is necessary to pull the thread or draw with a felt-tip pen on the floor. The first row is the central one, you can continue to lay from it both in one direction and in the other.

The herringbone layout has been known to many since Soviet times. The parquet was laid in this way. The principle of installation is no different, the only difference is in the length of the parquet board - it significantly exceeds the length of the parquet.

Deck laying is slightly different from the longitudinal method - the offset of the new row should be more than half the parquet board of the previous one. Thus, good fixation is achieved, which means that the life of the floor covering is increased.

Foundation preparation

Before laying a parquet board, you need to take care of the base. The subfloor not only levels the surface, but also contributes to noise reduction and thermal insulation. Craftsmen recommend making a capital foundation and never returning to it again. This approach saves not only money, but also time and effort.

The draft floor has two varieties - dry and self-leveling. The first variety is made on logs, and the second is performed using concrete. For a wet floor, concrete expanded clay can also be used. You only need to build on the presence in the hardware store and on the financial situation.

The self-leveling draft floor is mainly made in prefabricated city houses. This is due to the fact that the floors of such houses are made of reinforced concrete slabs. AT country houses it is possible to make a concrete screed, but this requires an appropriate foundation.

Remember that you need to pour a concrete screed only after fixing the waterproofing. For this, a plastic film sold in a hardware store is quite suitable.

If waterproofing is not done, it is likely that liquid concrete through the cracks will get to the neighbors living on the floor below. Therefore, the film must be fixed thoroughly, and along the edges of the room it should be supplemented with penoflex.

The next layer of the "pie" is the insulating material. Of the frequently used ones, polystyrene foam and penofol can be distinguished. The latter has an additional coating consisting of aluminum foil which reflects heat. Foamed polyethylene is a novelty in the construction market, its cost is slightly higher than its predecessors, but due to its unique features material is gaining popularity.

It would be useful to cover the thermal insulation material with another layer of waterproofing.

Before pouring the floor with a concrete screed, beacons must be set. The screed will subsequently be aligned on them. For accuracy, you should use the building level, it must be of suitable size and characteristics.

Concrete expanded clay has improved sound absorption and thermal insulation. It is the benchmark in this segment and is head and shoulders above aged concrete.

Knead the solution according to the instructions, then pour it onto the prepared base in a short time. The leveling of the concrete screed is carried out using a tool - the rules, do not forget about the beacons. Surplus must be removed without regret. After the surface becomes smooth, the floor is left to dry.

A rough wooden floor is mounted on a concrete base. To do this, logs are laid on the prepared surface.

At the same time, the base must be leveled and not have significant distortions, otherwise the parquet board laid on such a base will “creak”. And the floor itself will be crooked.

If the concrete floor in the room is uneven, it is recommended to “correct” it slightly. It is correct, from the point of view of the installers, to use an additional layer of screed. A small amount of solution is enough to just trim this flaw. The next step is started after it has completely dried.

Subsequently, you need to put a waterproofing film on the screed. All slots are thoroughly glued with ordinary adhesive tape. Can be used as soundproofing natural material- cork tree or the previously mentioned polyethylene foam. Without this layer, there is a high probability of noise when walking.

Directly for the lag, it is best to use a high-quality edged board made of solid wood with dimensions of 25 x 100 mm. It is undesirable to save in this matter, otherwise the result will be disastrous. Remember that the miser pays twice. Logs are installed on a noise-reducing layer, the result of the work is constantly checked using the building level. Attach the lags to the floor with corners.

The insulation is laid between the lags in such a way as to be flush with them., there should not be any protrusions. Plywood is laid on top of this structure. If the budget is limited, then plywood can be replaced with a floorboard.

Remember that the thickness of the plywood must be more than 20 mm, otherwise it will deform under the weight of the human flow. Massive furniture can also negatively affect thin plywood.

Plywood must be laid in a checkerboard pattern. This ensures that the joints will not be in the same row. Installation is carried out using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws. Do not forget that you need to lay plywood, indenting from the wall. It must be at least 3 cm.

If the house is wooden, then the draft floor can be installed along the supporting beams. Beams in this case will play the role of a lag, which means that thanks to this you can save a lot. But remember that r the distance between the beams should be small, otherwise you will have to "build up" an additional base from the log.

Substrate selection

If the parquet board is laid without the use of polyurethane adhesive (or any other), then a substrate must be laid between the product and the base. Manufacturers also give recommendations on the underlying layer. This layer is in the form of non-woven rolls or is ordinary mats.

The substrate contributes to the hermetic fit of the parquet board to the concrete or wooden floor, thereby reducing the likelihood of squeaks or other extraneous noise.

The backing layer protects the interlock from premature breakage. It retains heat well in the room, prevents damage to the parquet board under the influence of moisture.

Despite all the advantages, it is worth remembering that they are achieved only if the substrate thickness does not exceed 3 mm. "Overdose", as in the case of tablets, leads to negative consequences, in particular, to the destruction of parquet board locks.

The choice of substrate is determined by the type of subfloor. For concrete, you can use a "non-breathing" substrate. And for a wooden base - only from natural materials, because if you use polyethylene, then the tree can begin to rot under the influence of moisture.

The most affordable is the elastomer backing. It is produced in three varieties. Non-crosslinked polyethylene can be called ordinary, in the second “place” - having a layer of aluminum foil - either on one or both sides. And foamed polyethylene, just do not confuse it with polyurethane and polypropylene.

The popularity of this synthetic material is due to its affordable cost, ease of installation, and excellent water-repellent properties. The material does not deteriorate under the influence of a chemical environment. Unfortunately, there is also a significant disadvantage - during operation, the material may settle, which means that air will appear between the base and the parquet board, which can lead to squeaking.

Used as a backing layer one more synthetic material- expanded polystyrene. On sale it can be found in the form of an accordion, there are also improved versions with a foil heat-reflecting layer. This material is easy to install, it protects the parquet board from moisture, has good noise-reducing qualities, and retains heat. Unfortunately, it also has its downside - the high cost.

Underlayment made of pine or spruce is sold in hardware stores as softwood mats. The coniferous substrate is suitable for any subfloor bases. It has all the previously voiced qualities, like other representatives of this segment. Of the minuses, experts note the high cost and installation - it is uneconomical and labor-intensive.

In addition, like any natural material, it is damaged by pests and fungal spores. It is desirable that the thickness of the substrate be less than 5 mm.

Construction paperboard was developed in the country that invented the parquet board. Therefore, we can safely recommend this underlying layer as an alternative to the rest. Cardboard is dense, it is very difficult to tear, it “breathes”, and has noise-reducing qualities. But like any paper, cardboard does not tolerate moisture; it should not be laid in kitchens or bathrooms. Another downside is the cost.

Cork underlayment is available in the form of special sheets and rolls. It is a natural building material obtained by pressing the bark of a tree. The bark of oak is most commonly used. Glue it with various resins. Like any natural material, it is subject to colonization of fungal spores, so it is imperative to lay waterproofing.

In the store there are varieties that have two layers. The second waterproofing layer is either rubber or bitumen. The addition gives the product soundproofing qualities, resistance to deformation and static electricity. Depending on the presence of the second layer or its absence, the thickness of the cork substrate can be either 2 or 7 mm.

One of the latest innovations in the construction segment is the Tuplex underlay, which is suitable for parquet boards with a thickness of over 10 mm. This is a synthetic material consisting of a double polyethylene film and a filler. The filler is mainly made of polystyrene. The underlayment is also suitable for the "warm floor" system. Adhesive tape is used to fix it.

A plywood underlay is required only when leveling the base. If there is no such need, then the substrate is not needed.

You can choose a backing layer at any hardware store, starting only from your preferences and financial situation.

Laying on concrete

As an example, will be considered adhesive method styling. Before starting the installation of parquet boards, it is necessary to treat the concrete floor with an acrylic primer. The application layer should not be too thick. After the primer covers the entire surface, you need to wait until it dries.

Glue in its physical parameters should not resemble liquid sour cream, it is better that it be denser. The adhesive is applied to the concrete base in any convenient way, preferably with a brush. It is spread over the surface with a wide metal spatula.

Without waiting for the glue to dry, a backing layer is laid in the form of plywood sheets. The glue must be applied evenly in all areas so that the plywood lies equally even - the work is checked using the building level. Plywood is laid in any way, there is no difference in this, the main thing is not to forget to rub the seams acrylic sealant. After two days, the work is again checked by a level, and if the installation is done with high quality, then it is necessary to fix the result - to grind the surface.

A belt sander is suitable for this stage, it speeds up the process and does its job efficiently. To achieve the same result with sandpaper will not work.

The second stage is connected with laying the parquet board, either polyurethane adhesive or acrylic is suitable for this. First, wedges are installed - they limit the parquet board, and the gap is 10 mm.

Glue is prepared in small containers and used in the first minutes, the board is laid with spikes against the wall. To spread the adhesive, you will need a spatula with a notched design.

If the next row is cut by a third, then a beautiful pattern can be achieved. In addition, the lock connection will hold better and will not collapse after a while. The leveling of the parquet board should be checked with a spirit level.

If the adhesive protrudes through the edges, it must be removed. After installation of the floor, all seams are sealed with sealant. fine finish parquet is made after waiting five days.

If the room has a wooden lining, then the floor is installed without glue and self-tapping screws. The main condition is the small dimensions of the room or terrace. In this case, the lock connection will cope with its task with a bang, and the parquet board will last a long time.

How to put on the "warm floor"?

First of all, I would like to note the fact that for a warm floor it is necessary to lay a parquet board made of either oak or walnut. It is these two types of wood that, in terms of their physical indicators, ensure compatibility with it, since they do not deform under the influence of temperature. If the base is maple or beech, then such a board will fail in a short time period, because their thermal conductivity is higher.

It is very important to take into account the thickness of the parquet board, and if the board is thick, then the effect of "warm floor" will not be felt. The fact is that a thick tree will not let heat out. Only products whose thickness does not exceed 14.5 mm cope with this task.

The floor must be laid in a floating way. With this method of laying, the wood does not deform under the influence of moisture and when changing temperature regime. Not the last role is played by the floor heating system. Remember that wood is flammable, which means that there is a risk of fire.

Warm floors are infrared, water and electric type. Water and electric underfloor heating have been known to the world since the beginning of the last century. Electric heating element cables are, but in a wooden box there is a risk of a fire, and water pipes are completely forbidden to be laid in city apartments, since neighbors can be flooded from below.

Infrared film floor heating was invented in South Korea a few years ago. This is a kind of novelty, although indirectly it can be called a variety electrical systems heating. At the same time, it is worth remembering that the temperature set on the thermostat should not be higher than 28 degrees.

Water floor - the best option for country cottages, provided that the overlap between the basement and the first floor is made using wooden blocks. It has significant disadvantages, including:

Wear of plastic pipes. High chance of flooding basement and damage to parquet boards.
Problematic temperature control.
The floor will be raised ten centimeters.
Be sure to have your own boiler room.

There are a number of rules when installing a parquet board on a heating system. Firstly, the installation is carried out only by a floating method, using plywood as a substrate. Secondly, the parquet board should not heat up to 30 degrees and above. If this happens, the tree will become unusable.

You can lay the parquet board on the underfloor heating system yourself, but for this you need to carefully study the algorithm of work, and if you have doubts about your abilities, it is better to contact specialists.

Installation technology

Let's take an infrared warm floor as an example, since this novelty is the easiest to install with your own hands in city apartments and country houses.

The step-by-step instructions assume that the installation is carried out on a prepared concrete or wooden base, it must be leveled, clean and dry. The differences should be checked with a building level, they should not exceed 2 mm.

For a concrete floor, grinding is to be done, and for a wooden one, scraping. It is very important to clean the surface after completing the work, using a vacuum cleaner and a broom.

Next, you need to secure the heating system from the actions of the concrete base, for this a sublayer is laid. Polyethylene acts as a waterproofing and thermal insulation. It is important to mark out the infrared floor system, find a place for the sensor and thermostat. He is responsible for setting the temperature. Infrared mats are mounted with the film down, fixed to each other with adhesive tape. Bituminous insulation protects products from the external environment.

After all the connecting steps, the operation of the underfloor heating is checked. If the heating occurs evenly, then a plywood layer is attached on top. It is on it that the parquet board will subsequently be installed.

Laying solid parquet boards can be done by one person. Modern models with locking combi boxes are easy to install and reliable in operation. It does not matter whether a two-strip or three-strip parquet board will be used, the installation procedure for all products is the same and it has already been discussed in the previous sections.

How to dock?

Unfortunately, the parquet board does not tolerate moisture, and in some rooms it is necessary to make a transition between the board and tiles or other building materials. Most often, docking is used in the corridor - in front of the front door, between the corridor and the kitchen, between the bathroom and the corridor.

In studio apartments, country houses and other premises, the joint with tiles without a threshold can be sealed with sealant and a liquid plug. It is desirable that the sealant matches the color of one of the building materials.

Remember that a colorless sealant is a general purpose sealant that will work in most cases. Unfortunately, a low-quality substance will quickly become unusable and the repair will have to be redone. Apply it with a gun or syringe.

Liquid cork can be applied even by a non-specialist in this field, since it is like a glue. Glue holds two building materials together, does not deform or crumble. It is desirable to apply it after pre-treatment of the surface with oil. After the glue dries, it is cut off with a knife. To do this, you can use a construction or clerical knife.

As decorative material a wooden cork, plastic or metal profile can be used. A cork made of wood is mounted at the joints before grinding. Main Feature This material can be called the fact that it takes on various geometric shapes, and it looks beautiful in most interiors. Another plus is that the lock connection is not damaged during the operational period.

Metal and plastic profiles are laid only in a straight line. The profile protrudes above the surface. From a design point of view, this is the worst option. The metal profile, as a rule, has additional holes, screws will have to be screwed into them.

Remember that you need to work with a tile with a special drill, otherwise it may lose its presentation.

Wall and ceiling mounting features

Mounting parquet on the wall and ceiling is another recent trend. Thus, the unity of the interior is achieved, a kind of “box” is obtained. This space is suitable for acoustic systems– home cinema, music room and projector room.

You need to fix the parquet board on a special frame, something similar was considered in one of the sections - laying the floor on logs, only in this case the guides are located on the ceiling and on the walls.

If the sheathing is fixed on the wall, and even more so on the ceiling, only with the help of a locking connection, then such a structure will fall apart like a house of cards. This is fraught with injuries and abrasions. Therefore, self-tapping screws are additionally screwed into each parquet board.

The transition between the ceiling and the wall can be left straight, but for elegance, the craftsmen recommend bending the parquet board. With the help of a milling cutter, small indentations are made, after which the board “gives in”. The radius is selected by trial and error, but remember that it should be the same on all walls. The ceiling finish is completed.

Common mistakes

Often, the installation of a parquet board begins immediately after its purchase. This is one of the common mistakes. Construction material must "get used" to the temperature conditions of the room, its humidity.

Remember that the temperature should not be below 18 degrees. The parquet board should lie idle for at least two days.

The subfloor must necessarily be leveled, only differences of about 2 mm are allowed. It is best to use expanded clay concrete, it gives the surface not only a leveled appearance, but also thermal insulation and sound absorption. All further actions performed only after 100% drying.

The waterproofing and underlay layer allows the parquet board to be used for a long time without creaking, and if you save on them, the result will be the opposite.

It is very important to lay the parquet board last, but if you need to wallpaper the walls in the room, then you need to start with them. Remember that wallpaper after pasting release moisture when dried, which means that the humidity in the room will be increased.

The wooden base of the parquet board is not intended for rooms with high humidity, its performance must be normal and comply with the recommendations given by manufacturers.

Examples in the interior

In a country house with a parquet board, you can beat the upper floor at the transition point of the wall to the roof. Such a smooth transition is achieved due to milling grooves, it is only important not to forget about self-tapping screws when fastening. A conventional locking joint will not be able to withstand the own weight of the parquet board.
In studio apartments It is very important not to forget that the parquet board does not tolerate high humidity, and from this it follows that it is advisable to lay tiles or moisture-resistant parquet in the kitchen or in the corridor. Docking in this case can be done in any convenient way. In an apartment, most often such a transition is made in the hallway, because if you step on the parquet board with wet boots all the time, then it will become unusable in a short time.

The choice of flooring is quite milestone when installing floors in a house or apartment. And it depends on what materials will have to be used to finish the interior space of the room. And since wood has always been the most popular material, many people still try to use a parquet board.

Depending on the professionalism of the parquet installer, the service life of such a coating directly depends. In addition, for the installation of the floor, you can not hire craftsmen, especially if it is possible to complete everything necessary work personally. Thanks to the step-by-step plan, you can easily lay the flooring on your own.

Types of parquet board

Traditionally, specialists classify a parquet board according to the number of stripes that are visible on the decorative layer. According to this classification, it can be:

Single lane. In this case, thanks to a special technology, it became possible to manufacture a panel from solid wood while preserving the natural texture of wood.
Two-lane. In this type of coating, the base is made from a single or composite web. Finishing layer made from two planks.
Three-strip, where the panel design consists of three fragmented strips.

Advantages

The widespread use of parquet boards is due to a number of such important reasons as:

higher resistance to external influences, compared with natural wood;
impregnation of the surface in the factory with special protective compounds and no need for additional processing;
lower cost compared to natural parquet;
no need for cycling.

However, like any finishing material, the parquet panel also has some disadvantages:

since the texture of the board has a one-sided direction, it is worth forgetting about the curly laying of the flooring;
does not have high moisture resistance, so additional protective measures must be taken.

First stage

Having decided to use a parquet panel, you must first calculate the area that you want to cover so as not to buy extra material. Next, you need to examine the base for cracks and potholes, and if there is a slope, the need to create an additional screed using a cement-sand mortar.

In the event that the defects are not significant, then a conventional substrate can be used. Direct laying of the coating is carried out on a pre-fixed plywood sheet, on which a special cardboard is lined to create a vapor barrier. In this case, a polyurethane substrate is used. Also, very often, when laying, a cork substrate with a thickness of 3-4 mm is also used.

Mounting methods

The parquet board can be laid in the following ways:

floating;
adhesive.

In the first case, the panels are connected to each other by means of special technology locking connection, making installation or dismantling very easy and simple.

The second method involves the use of glue to connect the flooring to the base. It is necessary to apply the adhesive along the entire length to the lower grooves of the board, and if the laying is carried out diagonally, then it should start from the corner of the room.

The laying process takes more than one day and requires minimum set tools, namely:

wood saw or electric jigsaw;
plastic block for tamping and hammer;
clamps and restrictive wedges;
square and building level;
roulette.

Base and floor covering

For high-quality flooring of a parquet board without adhesive bonding, it is required that the base be strong, clean and as even as possible. There are two types of bases for flooring - concrete screed and wooden floors with height adjustment.

The concrete screed should be without significant drops, otherwise the flooring will creak. And wooden floors with the ability to adjust in height allow you to raise the surface by five or more centimeters, which makes it possible to save time on the device and lay various communications under them.

Before proceeding with the installation of the floor covering, the packaged material should be left for 2-3 days in the room where the repair will be carried out. Under the panels it is necessary to lay a cork or synthetic substrate, which will protect the board from excessive moisture, for which the joints are subjected to additional sealing.

First, the first two rows are installed, which must be laid parallel to the rays of daylight falling from the window. To do this, along the walls, you must first install special wedges, and lay the first panels in a checkerboard pattern. The gap must be at least 10 mm. This gap is an expansion joint that allows you to protect the parquet board from mechanical impacts when the material expands in case of temperature and humidity changes.

After laying and pressing the first two panels to the wedges, you can proceed with the installation of the second row. The length of the panel closest to the wall of the second line should be at least 80 cm. Ideally, the transverse seam of the first row is exactly in the middle of the parquet board of the second. The distance between the transverse seams of parallel rows must be at least half a meter, otherwise the fastening of the panels will be fragile.

Further, the panel of the second line enters the locking mechanism of the parquet board of the first row at an angle of about 20˚, but is not fixed. The next panel of the second row is inserted in the same way, but it is already snapped into place and pushed together with the first board into lock connection. After the parquet boards are adjusted to each other with the help of a beam until the seams disappear, they are firmly fixed in the same way the entire floor in the room is laid, with the exception of the last row.

For laying the last parquet panels, it is necessary to accurately measure the distance of the edge of the penultimate row to the wall. The panel of the last row to create an expansion gap must have a width 10 mm less than the measured distance. After that, on the grooves of the penultimate row, it is necessary to cut off the key edge, fill it with glue and insert the panel of the last row. You can firmly insert the board of the last row using the mounting foot, which is supplied with the parquet board.

On the last step perform the installation and fixation of skirting boards, for which all spacer wedges should be removed. Skirting boards are fastened directly to the wall, and they should not be pressed tightly against the parquet board. When choosing a plinth, it should be borne in mind that in width it should easily cover the expansion gap.

Which is better: parquet, parquet board or laminate

Laminated and parquet boards are currently the most popular types of flooring. Both of these finishing material allow you to get a durable and reliable coating, and sometimes they are so similar in appearance that it can be difficult for a person far from construction to distinguish them. So what is the difference between hardwood flooring and laminate flooring?

Production . Laminate panels for flooring can be compared to photo wallpapers transferred to multi-layer fiberboard, while parquet board is three layers of natural wood glued perpendicular to each other and two of which are made from cheap raw materials, and the top one is made only from precious woods. .

Appearance. The laminated panel most often has an imitation of natural wood, but all planks have the same pattern. With a parquet panel, everything is different, since the pattern on it is identical to the natural structure of the tree, and you simply cannot find two identical panels.

Practicality. Laminate, due to its resistance to abrasion, is more practical than parquet board. Parquet panels need more careful treatment and do not tolerate large mechanical loads, as well as temperature changes and humidity surges.

Features of care. If you plan to install flooring from parquet boards in the kitchen, then you must immediately buy special means care. If the floor is washed with a mop, then it should be slightly damp, and when using a washing vacuum cleaner, it is not recommended to turn on the “steam” function. The laminate is also sensitive to humidity, but not as much as a parquet board. It is not recommended to use household chemicals.

Lifetime. Hardwood flooring may seem like a fragile material, but if properly cared for, it can last up to 30 years. In addition, a parquet board can significantly increase its service life due to periodic restorations, but no more than 4 times for the entire time. The laminate will last 7-20 years, and with more high class wear resistance, then longer.

Price . High-quality laminate does not differ much in cost from parquet boards, therefore, when choosing a particular floor covering, take into account its properties and the features of the room in which the laying will be performed.

It is advisable to choose a floor covering from well-known manufacturers due to the good geometry of the panels.

Hardwood flooring should not be done in high-traffic areas, such as a hallway, as floor restoration will need to be done much more frequently than in a living room or bedroom.

Installation of parquet panels should be carried out at +18-24˚C and humidity of about 30-60%. In this case, the floor covering will last a very long time.

Before starting work on the floor covering, parquet panels must be left for about 2 days in the room where the floor will be laid.

When laying the board, special gaps of 10-15 mm wide are created near the walls for expansion joints, since the wood can expand with changes in humidity and temperature and this measure will avoid swelling of the coating.

The lock connection between parquet boards can be greatly facilitated if the locks are lubricated with wax or paraffin impregnation. Sealants should not be used in this case.

Laying should start from the doorway, moving towards the window.

Following this simple tips will allow the coating of parquet panels to last as long as possible.

How much does installation cost

The price for laying work largely depends on the method of installation and is about $ 9-10 per 1 m² for a "floating" floor and for an adhesive version on a cement screed it will cost about $ 13-14 per 1 m². This is due to the fact that additional materials are needed with the adhesive installation method.

And in conclusion, we present to your attention a video tutorial that shows the whole technology. phased installation parquet board