In order for air conditioners to fully justify the hopes placed on them, three main points should be observed:
- choose a model whose power corresponds to the characteristics of the room (volume, number of equipment and people);
- correctly install air conditioners (installation site);
- operate them in full compliance with existing rules, timely carrying out the whole range of preventive measures.
Let us dwell on the rules for installing air conditioners, touching on split systems in more detail. As a rule, the main reason for the poor performance of air conditioning systems or their premature wear is improper installation. This fact can reduce to a minimum the resource of any, even very expensive and high-quality unit.
Basic requirements and rules for the installation of air conditioners
Household air conditioning systems such as a split system include two blocks: indoor and outdoor. It happens that there are more indoor units: three or even four. Such a combination is called a multi-split system.
The external unit is assigned the function of a condenser, and the internal one plays the role of an evaporator. The connection between the outdoor and indoor units is provided by a line, which includes control wires and tubes, where the refrigerant, which is, as a rule, freon, circulates.
One more important detail is a drain pipe connected to the outdoor unit and providing evacuation of condensed moisture. In accordance with existing regulations, the drain pipe must be connected to the sewer system.
The design of split systems can be different (we are talking about color scheme and the shape of the controls), but in terms of layout they are all completely identical. The installation principles of the unit are in no way dependent on its design. Therefore, when choosing a place for installing blocks of any air conditioner, it is imperative to take into account:
- the side of the horizon where you intend to install the capacitor unit;
- the design and material of the walls on which it will be installed;
- own weight of the block;
- its availability for preventive work;
- the possibility of protecting the condenser from ice and precipitation.
When choosing the power of a split system when buying, you should take into account the total heat release in the living room. It depends on the:
- the position of housing relative to the sides of the horizon;
- the number of residents;
- power and number of electrical appliances;
- quantity heating batteries;
- the presence of other ventilation systems.
Outdoor unit installation procedure
Before you start installing the outdoor unit, you should make sure that the balcony railing or wall has the necessary margin of safety for the weight of a particular equipment option, the weight of which can even reach 60 kg in case of using powerful models. The margin of safety of walls and fasteners, brackets, screws and dowels must be at least double. Exterior wall modern multi-storey buildings may have insulation from a foam layer, or the facade of the house may be ventilated. In this case, the brackets must be attached not to the insulation, but to the wall itself.
Often in current houses the outer walls enclosing the balcony are made of aerated concrete. This material has good thermal insulation properties, but it is fragile and lacks strength. If the outer walls of your house are made of such material, it is not recommended to install a split system on them.
Vibration may occur when the outdoor unit comes into contact with the ventilated façade type cladding, resulting in additional noise. Therefore, during installation, it is recommended to use special damping type seals. Usually the noise level of a working unit does not exceed 26-28 dB.
The capacitor unit must be installed strictly horizontally and without distortions. The position of the block affects the refrigerant circulation conditions. It is desirable that there is a good wind blowing. The ideal place for the outdoor unit of the system is the balcony railing wall or placing it under a canopy. If your apartment is located on one of the upper floors, the condensing unit, which is part of the split system, can be placed on the roof, but the length of the line should in no case exceed 15 m, as this can cause significant cold losses in the composition. systems.
The drain must be arranged in such a way that drops of condensate do not fall on passing people. Although here it is necessary to repeat. In accordance with the rules for installing air conditioners, the drainage must be docked with the sewer.
It is important to ensure that the external unit of the system is at least 10 cm away from the wall, otherwise hot weather the airflow of the compressor will be poor, as a result of which it may fail.
Outdoor units are usually installed by industrial climbers due to the hazards inherent in working at height.
Rules and requirements for installing the indoor unit
Indoor installation work includes suspension indoor unit systems, as well as the wiring of the main tracks. A separate issue is also the laying of the power wiring.
An air conditioner for a living space consumes up to 2 kW, and sometimes more. In this regard, you should make sure that the electrical wiring of your apartment or house is designed for such a load. If this requirement is not met, then a special line with all the necessary fuses must be laid from the shield. This will protect your home from overheating of the electrical wiring and its ignition.
An important stage of work is the installation main pipelines from the outdoor unit of the system to the place where the indoor unit will be installed. In this case, the laying of the highway can be both internal with its embedding in the wall, and external. In the latter case, the line is laid in boxes.
When choosing a place for hanging the indoor unit of the system, the following should be taken into account important points:
- the smaller the distance separating the indoor unit from the outdoor one, the more efficient the operation of the entire system as a whole and the less level arising losses;
— the evaporator should not be obstructed by objects that interfere with the movement of air: curtains, furniture, etc.;
The minimum distance between the furniture and the unit must be 3 m or more;
- the equipment cannot be installed above heating batteries;
Consideration should be given to the accessibility of the unit to service providers;
It is impossible to hang the block directly above the pieces of furniture or close to the plane of the ceiling;
- the unit must not be installed so that the air flow is directed to the working or sleeping place, otherwise it can be fraught with frequent colds for people in the room:
- it is necessary to take into account the aesthetics of the suspension and fastening elements, the compatibility of the design of the unit with the interior.
Indoor units can be wall-mounted - and their share is about 90% - or ceiling-mounted, but in any case, it is necessary to ensure the geometric correctness and reliability of its fastening. Depending on the modification of the air conditioner, the unit is fixed with screws and brackets to the ceiling or wall. Brackets must be checked for strength.
In the case when a pipeline is used to connect the indoor and outdoor units, it is necessary to vacuum the connections. At the same time, moisture and air should be removed from them. These operations must be carried out using equipment specially designed for this purpose.
Procedure for installing the air conditioner
The main stages of installation of any air conditioner are:
1. Laying electrical wiring for the power supply of the air conditioner.
2. Mounting outdoor unit:
- selection of the most suitable place located at a height of at least 2 m above ground level;
- fastening of brackets using anchor bolts;
- suspension of the outdoor unit on pre-strengthened brackets;
-drilling holes with a diameter of 50-60 mm in outer wall for laying communications;
- laying a waterproofing cylinder and connecting communications in the holes.
3. Suspension of the indoor unit:
- selection of the most suitable place (the distance between the units located outside and inside the room can be from 7 to 20 m, which is determined by the modification of a particular air conditioner);
— fastening brackets;
- installation of the indoor unit.
4. Connecting the wiring of the air conditioning unit:
- installation of a box (internal or external);
- docking copper pipes ok for refrigerant circulation and wiring connection;
- removal of moisture and air from the system - vacuumization (the operation lasts at least 45 minutes, during which special equipment is used).
5. Trial run of the split system. Usually, special hardware and software equipment is used for this purpose.
Typical mistakes when installing air conditioners
Cases of improper installation of air conditioners are quite common. The reason is quite understandable - this is a significant cost of services provided by companies specializing in the installation of split systems, and the presence of non-professionals in this market. Often the cost installation work, usually performed within 2-3 hours, is equal to half the cost of a middle-class split system, as a result of which air conditioner owners often prefer to turn to the services of uncertified specialists or even obvious self-taught.
To the most common mistakes during the installation of a split system include:
- excessive bending of freon tubes or repeated bending of these tubes, which entails an increase in the load on the compressor;
- installation of a condenser unit on a glazed loggia, which negatively affects air circulation;
- installation of air conditioners in rooms where there are devices that emit high-frequency electromagnetic oscillations: turning or drilling machines, equipment for welding;
- installation of the evaporation unit with some distortion, which leads to the leakage of condensate onto the floor;
— Mounting the evaporator unit above batteries or other heat sources.
If mistakes have already been made, then it is necessary to understand their meaning and cause, and then take measures to correct them:
- if the air conditioner creates a draft - change the direction of the air flow by changing the position of the dampers;
- when the air conditioner provides heating, ice deposits form on the outdoor unit. Most likely, the device does not have a system that provides automatic defrosting. Let your air conditioner run in cooling mode, and the plaque will gradually melt;
- in the heat, the air conditioner does not give the desired effect - check and, if necessary, clean the filters, close the windows in the room, turn off the heaters, replace the modification with a more powerful one;
- weak air flow - clean the filters of the unit;
- water oozes out of the evaporator - most likely, the drainage channel is clogged, there may be an ice plug. You should call the wizard to warm up the unit;
— When the air conditioner is running, extraneous noise is heard. This may indicate wear on the bearings or an imbalance in the fan. You should invite the master to diagnose and carry out repairs;
— strong heating of the compressor. This indicates a decrease in freon pressure. In this case, it is necessary to refuel the air conditioner and check the system for leaks (the work is done by a specialist).
Thus, correct installation split systems is a guarantee that the air conditioner will fully cope with the tasks assigned to it. The required quality of equipment installation and the efficiency of its operation can only be provided by true professionals working in this field.
The word split actually means "gap", but in technical English it has several meanings. In this case, we are talking about an air conditioning system using an air conditioner with spaced blocks. We will tell you how to install a split system with your own hands in a city apartment and a private house.
How air conditioner works
Installing an air conditioner is a tricky business. In order not to screw up, you need to know exactly what is being done for what. Therefore, we briefly recall the principle of operation of the air conditioner:
- A refrigerant enters the evaporator through a narrow opening - a die or nozzle - under pressure: a low-boiling liquid with a high heat of evaporation. In the evaporator chamber, the refrigerant expands, boils, evaporates and absorbs a lot of heat.
- At the same time, water condensate forms on the evaporator radiator (dew falls). The condensate flows into the tank, and from it through the drain tube - out.
- The compressor, arranged on the principle of a vacuum pump, continuously pumps out refrigerant vapor from the evaporator chamber. From the increase in pressure behind the pump, the refrigerant heats up and goes into a supercritical state: neither gas nor liquid, something like a very dense fog.
- Next, the refrigerant enters the condensation chamber, also equipped with a radiator, which is blown by a fan. Its temperature drops below the critical one and the refrigerant condenses into a liquid.
- The liquid refrigerant is blown through the spinneret into the evaporator; the work cycle is repeated.
Do's and Don'ts of Air Conditioning
From the principle of operation of the air conditioner, it is clear that for it successful work and economical energy consumption during installation, the following should be taken into account:
- Any thermal contact between the cold and hot zones dramatically increases the power consumption: the compressor, in addition to pumping the agent, now has to drive heat inside the system - at the expense of the owner.
- Dust and debris in the system are unacceptable: Vacuum pump– high-precision device; one piece of metal can destroy it.
- The system must be completely sealed: low-boiling liquids strive to evaporate even through a micron gap.
- The outdoor unit must be located lower than the indoor unit: in this case, the thermosyphon effect (the heated liquid tends to rise) facilitates the operation of the compressor. Otherwise, the compressor, in addition to the additional consumption of electricity to lift the agent, will also have to overcome the thermosyphon effect.
- The outdoor unit should be located in the coolest place possible. Any additional heating is paid by the owner.
- The drain tube must not have an upward bend anywhere. Any "U" quickly becomes a source of infection: condensate - pure water, in which microbes and fungi are free and at ease, and their spores are always in the air.
What is an air split
Air conditioners for split systems are made with separate units: evaporative (internal) and compressor-condensing (outdoor). The names, however, are conditional, because. most modern air conditioners can both cool and heat the room; During heating, the refrigerant condenses in the indoor unit and evaporates in the outdoor unit. Therefore, they often say simply: outdoor and indoor unit.
In some (rather expensive) models of air conditioners, several indoor units are connected to one outdoor unit, which can work separately for cooling and heating. Such a split system, with the initial high cost of operation, turns out to be more economical: in this case, interroom heat exchange does not interfere, but helps the air conditioner. How a split system is installed in an apartment is shown in the figure:
When is the best time to split
It is better to time the installation of a split system in an apartment for repairs. The work ahead is serious: for the installation of electricians, you will have to walk along more than one wall. If the walls are already tiled - lay the new cladding in advance in expenses.
Tool
In order for the split to work and not break in a day or a week, you need to purchase or rent the following tool:
- Perforator with a set of chisels - you will have to make a hole under 100 mm in diameter in the main wall.
- Reinforcement detector, if the wall is concrete - hitting the rebar during grooving, you will have to punch a new hole.
- Pipe cutter. Never cut the refrigerant pipes with a hacksaw! Copper chips will definitely remain in the gap, which will quickly kill the compressor.
- Tube flaring kit. When expanding with improvised means, tightness cannot be achieved. About flaring tubes will be discussed separately. Good flaring kits also include a pipe cutter with a scraper.
- Scraper (reamer) - a tool for stripping the ends of pipes. A needle file or file is not suitable because of the same sawdust.
- Bicycle hand pump– to check the tightness of the system.
- Vacuum pump - to evacuate the system before filling. Flushing with refrigerant, which is often recommended, does not remove moisture, which ruins the compressor no worse than metal filings.
- Phase indicator and tester for electrical work.
- Pressure gauge.
About pipelines
Buying pipes
It is better to buy a copper tube in a whole bay: it is better to spend money on some stock, which will then go somewhere else, than to risk the compressor: sawdust may remain in the tube from which it was cut off. Also make sure that the ends of the tube in the bay are factory-rolled, and the tube itself does not have dents or cracks. Long piping will allow the outdoor unit to be lowered, so that some overspending when buying is then offset by a good thermosyphon.
Cutting, scraping and expanding tubes
Before embarking on the installation, you need to practice flaring the tubes: for an air conditioner, this is a vital issue. Flaring is done with a special tool; how it works, looks, what defects are possible, and what the final result should be - you can see in the figure:
For training, you need to immediately buy some kind of scrap of the same with a tube bay; do not touch the bay before installation. At the same time, we will practice cutting and scraping: the tube is cut in a circular motion, and when scraping, the tube must be held with the end down so that the scraped burrs do not fall into its lumen.
Outdoor unit installation
It is strongly not recommended to install the outdoor unit on the wall by yourself, starting from the second floor. Why? See the statistics of the Ministry of Emergency Situations and the Ministry of Health in the sections: "Resuscitation" and "Urgent surgery". Fortunately, the upper floors have balconies or loggias.
On a balcony, the outdoor unit mounts very well on self-made shallow (i.e. shallow) brackets, see fig. On any balcony, no matter how you turn it, there is always a north or east side, just right for the air conditioner. But even when installed in the loggia "facing" to the south, the visor will protect the outdoor unit from the direct rays of the sun during the hottest time of the day, when the air conditioner is just running.
With this installation method, the installation and maintenance of the air conditioner is easy and does not pose a risk. The only inconvenient operation is fixing the block to the brackets; it will have to be done by leaning over the railing.
To install the brackets, the glazing will have to be temporarily removed, and the root parts of the brackets should be cut into the lower frame frame. If the “roots” of the brackets are bent down in the form of horizontally arranged “U”, then you can do without struts and not touch the balcony skin.
Split system installation
Installation of a split system in an apartment is carried out in the following order:
And now we will describe some features of each stage of work. Allowable distances from walls and ceiling for indoor and outdoor units are shown in the figure on the right.
Places for indoor units
Indoor units cannot be installed:
- Above radiators and other heat sources.
- Behind curtains, curtains, screens and other airflow obstructions.
- In rooms with sources of electrical interference: workshops with power tools, induction and microwave ovens, electric ovens - pickups can damage the unit's processor.
The question immediately arises: what about the kitchen? In it, it turns out, the air conditioner cannot be installed at all. Right. The supply of conditioned air to the kitchen is provided.
Wiring
The smallest air conditioner consumes 1.5 kW of electricity. Therefore, for it it is necessary to lay a separate wiring with a cross section of at least 1.5 square meters. mm and put the automatic shutdown - as for a boiler or washing machine.
When connecting the wires to the input shield, we connect the yellow wire with a longitudinal green stripe to the neutral (neutral wire). Phase and zero are determined by the phase indicator. If the wiring is made from wires in non-standard colors, zero and phase must be marked at both ends.
outdoor unit
Installation of the outdoor unit has already been described above.
Hole in the wall
Firstly, if the house is block, you need to determine in advance the locations of the reinforcement. It is impossible to cut off the reinforcement in the hole: outer wall always bearing, and reinforcement violation is unacceptable.
Secondly, a second person is needed: he must stand below and warn passers-by. An accidentally dropped piece of concrete or brick can cost the owner a long prison sentence.
The diameter of the hole must be at least 80 mm. Recommendations about 60 and even 50 mm clearly do not take into account thermal insulation.
Pipelines
We cut the tubes to size with a margin of 1 m, for bends. Bending the tubes must be done carefully to prevent kinks or wrinkles. Wrinkles create resistance to the flow of the agent, and this entails an increased consumption of electricity. Permissible bending radius of tubes is not less than 100 mm.
Then we put threaded flanges (“nuts”) on the tubes and flare the ends of the tubes. Make sure that the flanges are put on correctly - threaded towards the end of the tube.
Finally, we connect the pipelines to the fittings. This must be done alternately so that the cold fitting of the indoor unit is not connected to the hot outdoor unit. The matter is facilitated by the fact that in most air conditioners hot and cold fittings of different diameters.
We tighten the flanges on the fittings tightly, but not tightly: copper can be easily pinched. We will tighten the threaded connections later, when sealing.
For drainage, you need a piece of reinforced plastic tubing. We connect it to the drain pipe either with a threaded flange, if provided, or with a piece of heat-shrinkable tube. You can heat the heat shrink with a soldering iron with light circular movements, slightly touching the tube with a sting.
Electrical connections
Stranded wires in insulation with a cross section of at least 1.5 sq. mm we connect the terminals of the same name of the indoor and outdoor units. If the names of some terminals do not match, we understand the instructions, consult with a specialist. Of course, both pipelines and wires are passed through a hole in the wall.
Sealing
When sealing, we use a method proven by generations of gas workers: a soap solution. We buy 0.5 liters of distilled water at the pharmacy, heat it “to steam” and, stirring gently, dissolve a spoonful of laundry soap shavings in it.
Installing a split system (or, simply put, an air conditioner) is a laborious procedure, but not as complicated as you might think. In principle, even someone who has never done anything like this before can cope with such a task. This will require some theoretical knowledge that you can learn from this article, patience and desire. Let's talk about how to install an air conditioner with your own hands.
Some general information
Our main goal is to install the air conditioner without damaging it. But, in addition, it is necessary to properly install both the indoor and outdoor units. Otherwise, the performance will be much lower, if the device will function at all.
To get started, you will need a special tool: a puncher and a vacuum pump, a manometric pump, a building level. As for consumables, the installation of a split system is carried out with a standard kit, which should come with the kit. This is a heater, a drainage hose, dowels, brackets, etc. If this is not there, then you need to buy it, and only after that start installing the air conditioner.
Mounting the panel of the indoor unit
In this case, you must follow one simple rule that applies to all air conditioners, regardless of brand and manufacturer. It consists in the fact that at least 10 centimeters must be retreated from the ceiling. If this rule is not observed, then the air conditioner will constantly become clogged with dust. In addition, degraded air intake will contribute to a decrease in performance, and this may affect the longevity of the device as a whole.
It is also necessary to retreat a little from the corner of the wall. The distance from the panel to the curtain must be at least 10 cm. This is necessary so that the curtain does not sway during the operation of the air conditioner. Further, with the help of dowels and a level, the panel is fixed. It must be placed strictly horizontally. This is necessary so that there is no leakage of condensate. Then we temporarily hang the indoor unit.
Cable channel installation
Cable laying must be carried out with at least a slight slope. This is done to prevent condensation. Be sure to take this into account when installing. First you need to drill a hole with a minimum diameter of 55 millimeters. Do not forget about the slope, which will eliminate the appearance in the drain hose airlock. After through hole will be done, we stretch the box, cut the ends, and we customize the whole thing.
The next step is to cut the track. It is extremely important to understand here that the use of a conventional hacksaw is simply unacceptable. This is due to the fact that small chips, dirt, etc., will remain in the copper tube. If all this gets into the compressor, it will soon fail. Therefore, use special pipe cutters, which today can be found in any specialty store or rented from a neighbor. Despite the fact that climatic equipment there are different things, the installation of air conditioners is approximately the same. Split systems at present a large number of, but the principle of operation is the same, and installation is carried out according to general rules.
Laying the track in the box and mounting the brackets
At this stage, you yourself choose the sequence of actions. You can first hang the block on the panel, and only then start laying the track in the box. You can, and vice versa, lay the track, then attach the block. The main requirement is not to bend the copper tubes. If this happens, the compressor will soon break down.
Next, you need to get insurance and go outside, since the next stage is performed there. Whether it is the installation of a multi-split system or the most common one, it is necessary to fix the brackets on the wall. They must be in the same horizontal plane, so use It is advisable to have two people do the work, since the outdoor unit is heavy. After fixing the brackets, the external unit is put on them and additionally fixed with bolts.
Rolling and vacuuming of the route
The essence of rolling is to expand the copper tubes at their junctions. For this, a special rolling machine and nozzles are used. Before rolling the tube, put a nut on it, because after expanding it you will not be able to do this. It is extremely important to ensure reliable connection through which freon would not flow. To do this, tighten the nuts at the joints as much as possible, but do not overdo it.
Vacuuming is necessary to remove residual dust and moisture from the track. To do this, you will need equipment for installing split systems, such as a vacuum pump. It turns on, and at the same time, the port on the pressure gauge opens. When the arrow goes into vacuum, turn off the pump and close the port. If the arrow does not go down, then this means that one of the connections allows air to pass through, tighten the nuts more tightly. If this does not help, then it is worth checking the quality of rolling. If this is not done, then there is a high probability that the compressor will burn out after one winter.
Installation of a split system: instructions for starting freon
After you have successfully completed the vacuum, it's time to fill the system with freon. To do this, use a hex wrench to unscrew the supply hose (this is a thin tube). It is important not to confuse with a thick suction tube, as it can deteriorate which is not good. The sequence is important here, so the supply opens first, and then the suction. At this stage, fix the freon pressure in the system and check all electrical connections. If everything is in order, then you can carry out a test run.
If the compressor does not immediately turn on, do not be alarmed, this is quite normal, there is nothing to worry about. Record pressure and tension. If everything is in order, then the air conditioner to the maximum. So he should work for 10-15 minutes. During this time, freon will go through the system, and the oil will have time to return.
Do-it-yourself installation of a split system: important points
It must be understood that there should be no air in the system, which is why evacuation is a mandatory procedure. As noted above, all connections must be reliable and durable. It is advisable to make several checks using a vacuum pump. Only after you make sure that everything is in order, you can carry out a test run.
It is safe to say that the installation of the interblock route and its sealing are the most complex and time-consuming stages. As you can see, you can not do without an assistant. This is due to the fact that it is very difficult and unsafe to install the outdoor unit on your own. In general, there are no overwhelming tasks here. We observe the horizontal, seal the connections, do not use an ordinary hacksaw - and everything will be fine.
Conclusion
So we figured out how split systems are installed. Dismantling / installation in priority should be carried out by specialists with experience and high qualifications. So the equipment will last for years. But it is extremely important not to forget to service it periodically.
By the way, during the time there is a risk of stumbling upon fittings or wiring. So first check if hidden communications, and only then proceed to work. The event is quite noisy and dusty, so prepare the room in advance. In general, there is nothing complicated here, the main thing is to follow all the above rules. But one way or another, self-installation should be carried out only if you are confident in your abilities. But it's better to call the experts. If the installation is carried out incorrectly, then at least there will be someone to make a claim. That's all that can be said about the installation work.
By controlling the microclimate of personal space, we create conditions that are optimal for rest, work, and classes. Installing a split system will allow you to set a favorable level of temperature and moisture for the most in a simple way. Agree, in the summer period there are many days that need to be regulated by climatic parameters.
After reading the article we have proposed, you will learn all the details and subtleties of the installation of air conditioning equipment. Carefully selected and systematized information will be useful both for independent home masters and for customers of installers' services to check proper execution.
We describe in detail the installation process, lists the nuances of the location and fastening of the blocks. The materials required for the installation and connection of the units are listed. A valuable addition to the text, which facilitates the perception of information, are photo and video applications.
When studying information on how to properly install a split system in a private house or apartment, you first need to choose the location of its parts.
To do this, it is necessary to take into account the direction of distribution of the flow of cold / hot air in the room, taking into account the basic technical requirements specified by the equipment manufacturer in the instructions.
The most common options for the location of the indoor unit of the split system are above the bed / sofa. Outdoor - usually taken out into the street and installed on a site near a window or on balcony slabs
There are certain rules that must be taken into account when choosing a block placement point:
- the distance between the unit and the ceiling should be at least 15-20 cm, although some manufacturers indicate 20-30 cm in the instructions;
- from the side to the wall - not less than 30 cm;
- to a barrier that will impede the flow of outgoing air or dissipate it - at least 150 cm.
For the outer part of the split system, the location is chosen based on bearing capacity walls. Installation is possible near the window, on the plates enclosing the loggia, or on the wall next to the balcony.
For those who live on the lower floors, the installation of the block is carried out above the window - as far as possible from passers-by.
Based technical requirements to the wall of the ventilation facade used as a platform for fixing the outdoor unit of the split system - the possible load capacity should be 2.5 times the weight of the installation unit
For high-rise building, especially if the apartment is located on the top floor, you will need to involve high-rise specialists or determine the installation point as close as possible to the window, which will provide easy access during installation.
Determining the distance between blocks
Often the choice of equipment location is regulated by the minimum and maximum distance between its parts. These indicators are mainly indicated by the manufacturer and depend on model range and characteristics.
Sometimes firms do not indicate the minimum length of the circuit between two units, so installation can be done arbitrarily.
The minimum distance between Daikin split system blocks is 1.5-2.5 m, Panasonic - up to 3 m. However, if the blocks are located a meter apart, the length of the route should be at least 5 m (its excess is rolled into a ring and hidden behind the block)
It is a little easier to deal with the maximum possible distance between the two units. The standard indicator is 5 m. It is also possible to increase the length of the route, but in this case it is necessary to rely on additional expenses due to the need to refuel with freon.
Preparation for work
The decision to start installing a split system on your own comes, as a rule, after clarifying the prices from specialists. Incredibly high amounts for the performance of the work, which takes 3 hours, are argued by the presence of expensive tools and its wear and tear during operation. This is what makes up the bulk of the fee for the services of the master.
If the prices from split system installers are too high, it is worth installing with my own hands having thoroughly studied the technology of this type of work
If you look at the recommendations of equipment manufacturers, then often the instructions indicate that preparatory work can be done on your own, but for the installation of pipelines, connection to electrical network, carrying out the vacuuming process, it is advisable to invite specialists with the appropriate tools.
Hardware installation tools
It is possible to carry out independent installation of the cooling unit, because. most of the tools are in the suitcase home master. An exception may be a vacuum pump, but it is not necessary to buy it - make similar unit succeed from old parts.
Some teams of masters do not even use this equipment when laying a route up to 6 m long.
If at self installation the air conditioner could not find a vacuum pump, an alternative could be a powerful compressor from an old refrigerator or an aquarium blower
During installation important aspect is the observance of the horizontal arrangement of block systems. In connection with these requirements, each stage of work must be accompanied by a control check by the building level.
If a tool is not available, it can be rented from a hardware store.
The following equipment will need to be prepared in advance:
- Perforator. It is used to make holes in the facade, through which a route will be laid, generalizing the external and internal blocks.
- Drill with a set of drills. Used for mounting fasteners.
- Pipe cutter for cutting copper pipes.
- Device for removing burrs after cutting pipes. You can use a reamer, file and sandpaper.
- Roller of copper pipes.
Some believe that the use of a reamer does not make sense, especially if the new one does not leave burrs and dents, but in vain.
Only after the beveler has been manipulated, the edge of the flared tube can be pressed as tightly as possible with the nut, and, accordingly, freon leakage is unlikely.
The work of the device for expanding copper pipes is carried out by the method of deformation of the tube according to the selected pattern, as a result of which a cone is formed. At the same time, the original wall thickness and round section are preserved.
According to the technical installation rules, a vacuum pump is required - the air conditioning system is sealed with this equipment. After filling the line with refrigerant, the process of evacuation is carried out.
Purchase of necessary materials
You will need a lot of components, but they are all easily available in any specialized store. Do not forget that the materials must be of the highest quality and selected exclusively for a device that is functionally aimed at cold.
It is necessary to purchase a wire for supplying power and connecting the units. The required parameters are always indicated in the passport or in the equipment installation instructions.
Standard is a four-wire power cable with a cross-sectional area of 2 mm 2 or 2.5 mm 2. The length is selected based on the distance of the route, taking into account a small margin.
You will also need to prepare thick-walled seamless pipes made of soft copper, designed for cooling appliances. Pipes are selected smaller and larger diameters. For more specific specifications, please refer to the user manual.
The length is equal to the length of the route plus an additional margin of up to 30 cm. During the transportation of the tubes, their edges must be plugged to protect against dust settling inside the product.
Pipes are selected exclusively for the cooling system, their soft copper alloy lends itself well to flaring and ensures proper tightness
Foam rubber insulation is used to insulate pipes. They sell it in segments of 2 m. To implement measures for thermal insulation, a length equal to the length of the route will be required. Synthetic insulation is used on two pipe diameters.
As drainage tube experts recommend installing a corrugated hose equipped with a plastic spiral inside. You can also use an alternative part - a polypropylene tube. Its length is equal to the length of the track with a surcharge of 80 cm.
You will also need two L-type brackets to secure the unit from the outside. Suitable size parts is determined by its dimensions, and the margin of safety for the bearing load must exceed its weight by 5 times. Such an increase in the maximum allowable stress of the part is required to compensate for the loads of wind and snow.
It is better to buy these components in a company that sells spare parts for household split systems.
After purchasing the bracket for mounting the outdoor unit of the air conditioner, do not make additional holes in it, because. this significantly reduces the margin of safety of the part
As fastening parts are used: anchors, dowels and bolts. Their number, type and parameters are selected based on the type of brackets and mounting plate intended for the indoor unit.
The type of walls where the outer part of the system is to be mounted also matters. To camouflage the laid communication line, you will need a plastic box with standard dimensions of 60 * 80 cm.
Split system installation procedure
Install your own air conditioning system real challenge, however, there are many nuances in the work and they concern certain models, so the installation process may have some differences. To study all the requirements, you must first read the instructions specifically for the purchased equipment model.
Stage # 1 - installation of outdoor and indoor units
The indoor unit is to be installed first. Having decided on the location of its location, the area for the mounting card is marked on the wall. After drilling backlashes, plastic plugs for dowels are inserted, a card is hung and fixed with dowels.
The most thorough fastening should be done at the bottom of the plate, because. on this site are the latches that hold the block
After installing the cassette, using building level the exposure of the strict horizontal placement of the future block is measured. In case of any discrepancy, it will be necessary to redo all the work performed.
At this stage, preparatory work for laying the tracks is coming. First, the line of its location is calculated. Then a hole is drilled in the facade wall, taking into account the required slope of more than 1/100.
Also, a hole with a diameter of 5 cm is drilled with a slope, while the angle of inclination can be increased in comparison with the route. So, the formed condensate will better leave the system.
When choosing a back-to-back mounting scheme for the units, it is required to check the hole designed to accommodate the power cable. To do this, check the location of the power ports on the units.
And now it is the turn of the installation of the outdoor unit. If it's about high-rise building, you will need special equipment for work at height.
As in the first case, the strict horizontal position of the block must be maintained, therefore, a level is also used at the markup stage.
When placing the outdoor unit, it is necessary to take into account the limitation regarding its slope - the maximum allowable angle slope is 45°
At the time of installation of fasteners, each existing hole must be filled anchor bolts(standard diameter 10*100 mm), regardless of their number. After that, the outdoor unit is exposed and also fixed with fasteners.
Stage # 2 - laying a communication line
With the help of an electric wire and two copper tubes, the connection between the outdoor and indoor units is carried out. Additionally, through the wall will be laid drainage system responsible for removing condensate. These elements must be properly selected, connected, laid and secured.
First, you should prepare the copper pipes by cutting the desired length with a pipe cutter and treating the edges with a reamer from burrs and dents after the cutting procedure.
It is not recommended to use other tools such as a file. After its application, metal chips get inside the tube, which will circulate through the system and eventually lead to the failure of the compressor.
To lead copper pipes through the wall, their edges must be insulated with a plug to protect against dust
Thermal insulation of tubes is carried out by putting polyurethane foam hoses on them. Foam rubber cannot be chosen as a sealant - it has a short service life. After completing the measures for thermal insulation, all the connecting sections of the material are tightly glued with metallized adhesive tape.
Now it was the turn to lay the drainage and cable. For each wire you need to put on a special tip. They are installed on cleared from insulating material conductors and crimp with tongs.
The finished cable is connected to the air conditioner according to the diagram given in the manual for the device.
On both units, in the area slightly above the ports, there is a removable plate for connecting copper pipes. Under it there are electrical connectors for the cable.
The drain tube is connected to a special outlet on the indoor unit and is led out through a hole in the wall. The tube must be long enough and end at least 60 cm from the wall.
According to the rules, its laying is carried out at an angle to the exit to the outside. Requires fixing with clamps every meter of length to eliminate sagging in order to prevent the accumulation of condensate.
Stage # 3 - connecting the system blocks
Communications carried out through the wall are connected to the corresponding ports. It is important to remember that the total length of the drainage pipeline cannot be more than 20 m. Copper pipes are laid in a loop to trap oil, which is contained in a small amount in freon.
Drainage can be diverted in two ways: bring it into the sewer or into the street. The first method is technically correct, however, due to the complexity of reproduction, it is not widely used.
When laying the drain pipe, it is better to avoid sharp turns, sagging is also not allowed - condensate will accumulate in these areas
At the bottom of the indoor unit of the system is a tube with a plastic tip. A corrugated hose is put on it and tightened at the junction with a clamp.
For the outer part of the device, a similar procedure is performed, but many people ignore it. If a polymer pipe is used instead of a hose, an appropriate adapter is selected. With it, connect the output of the block and the tube.
To connect copper pipes, you need to initially lay them along the wall using a pipe bender. If such a tool is not available, then we suggest that you read the article, which describes in detail how to bend a pipe without special equipment. Read more - read.
The tubes must be given the necessary slope without kinks and a sharp crease. First of all, they are connected to the indoor unit. To do this, loosen the nuts on the respective ports.
When unwinding, a characteristic hissing sound of escaping nitrogen will be heard. It is pumped at the time of production to eliminate the oxidation of parts. After lowering it, it is necessary to remove the plugs and unscrew the nut completely. Next, the rolling procedure is performed.
During the flaring process, the pipe is held with the hole down to prevent metal chips from entering the system.
The edges of the pipes in a section of 5 cm are aligned. Then flaring is carried out to ensure the connection of the input and output of the blocks. This will create a closed circulation system. The correctness of the installation plays an important role in acquiring the properties of maximum tightness, in the process of moving freon.
The flared end of the pipe is connected to the required outlet and fixed with a nut. It is forbidden to use any additional devices here - sealants, gaskets, etc. The applied copper tubes provide the necessary sealing.
When connecting copper pipes, it is necessary to apply a force of 60 kg, only then the copper will solidly compress the fitting, and the contact will be tight
Similar actions are done with all four ports. After connecting, the last stage of the installation of the air conditioning system follows - the elimination of air and moisture, as well as possible argon residues that could accumulate during the installation process.
Stage #4 - evacuation of the system
During installation work, air enters the air conditioner tubes and if it is not removed, it will end up in the air conditioning system. The result is an increased load on the compressor, respectively, its rapid heating.
Also, water particles adversely affect all details. Freon contains a proportion of lubricating oil, its hygroscopic consistency becomes less effective when it comes into contact with water. As a result, the wear of components will accelerate.
Two methods can be used to remove air: a vacuum pump or a small amount of freon liquid that descends from the unit located outside. In the manufacture of the outdoor unit, manufacturers with little surplus.
The “puff” method is repeated several times, while the second attempt is made with the top valve. If the length of the route is 2-3 m - the procedure is carried out 3 times, with a four-meter - 2 times
An alternative to an expensive vacuum pump is to release excess freon from the outdoor unit system. To do this, the plugs are unscrewed on its valves. You need to work with the bottom port larger diameter. Under its cover is a hexagon socket. Based on its parameters, the appropriate key is selected.
the right key rotate the valve by 90° and after a second return it to its previous position. Thus, a small amount of freon enters the system and increased pressure is created. With a second finger pressure on the spool located on the same port, excess freon and gases are released from the system.
After complete removal air, the spool outlet is screwed with a plug, and the valves open completely and freon enters the split system. To check the tightness of the joints, they are coated with soapy foam.
It is worth remembering that with independent, minor factors do not exist. And everything that was done incorrectly, for example, rolling pipes without stripping the rim, or an insufficiently fixed connection, ultimately leads to rapid wear of the components of the cooling system. Therefore, during the installation process, you need to be extremely careful in all details.
If you have the necessary experience or knowledge in the issue of installing split systems, please share it with our readers. Perhaps you know some subtleties that we did not mention in this material? Leave your comments, ask questions in the block below.
All more people Recently, they have been thinking about the purchase and installation of devices for controlling the microclimate in the home. In urban areas, especially if the apartment is entirely on the sunny side, air conditioning is the only option to create comfort during the hot summer months. The great cost of this useful device makes you want to save money by installing a split system with your own hands. Is this procedure as complicated as air conditioning installation companies assure? And how to install the air conditioner yourself according to all the rules to ensure it smooth operation for the longest possible time?
Types of air conditioners
For creating comfortable conditions used in apartments the following types conditioners:
Monoblock systems
All blocks of the conditioner are located in one case. This reduces the cost of the device, but also leads to certain inconveniences: the bulkiness of the system and the rather high noise from the compressor, not even at full power. They, in turn, are divided into two types:
- Window air conditioners. Pioneers among apartment systems. The main disadvantage: the device block occupies a significant part of the window opening. This prevents access sunlight into the room, and it is extremely difficult to harmoniously fit its interior. Therefore, air conditioners of this type are becoming rarer.
- . Much more attractive in design than windowed ones. In addition to the tempting possibility of movement, they have one more indisputable advantage: the block practically does not require installation. It is enough just to equip with your own hands the hood from the room to the outside, to which the system is connected. But the cost of such air conditioners is quite high.
Two-block systems
In devices of this type, the refrigerant circulates between the outdoor and indoor units of the air conditioner. The main advantage of such systems is noiselessness. The main "troublemaker" - the compressor, is located behind the wall. The indoor units come in a variety of designs and can be placed in most convenient location. They are divided into 3 varieties:
- Wall split systems. The most affordable and common at present, have a power of 2 to 7 kW. They are perfect for maintaining the desired microclimate: in summer they create coolness, but it is also possible to operate the air conditioner for heating in winter. It is for such systems that the most relevant question is: how to install an air conditioner without resorting to the help of professionals?
- Channel conditioners. They are installed under the false ceiling structure and have a high power - 12–25 kW. This is enough for quite spacious apartment. Complicating the task is the need correct calculation air exchange in the room. When installing thermostats and special electric valves, you can set your own temperature for each room in the apartment. Naturally, this complicates the installation of system blocks and significantly increases its cost.
- Cassette air conditioners. The main system is also hidden false ceiling. Cassette split systems are made so as not to stand out. As a rule, the dimensions of the grille of the cassette air conditioner coincide with the dimensions ceiling tiles: 600 by 600 mm, and with more power - 600 by 1200 mm. The dimensions of the indoor unit allow you to easily place it and all the necessary communications inside a standard lattice made of metal profile used in the installation of suspended structures.
Preparing to install an air conditioner with your own hands: choosing a place
Since the most popular wall split systems, then we will describe how to install an air conditioner with our own hands, we will apply to them.
Choosing the location of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner in an apartment building can cause some difficulties:
- The outdoor unit of the system is cooling the refrigerant, so it should be placed so as to avoid heating as much as possible sunbeams. The north or east side of the house or balcony is well suited.
- The massive outdoor unit of the air conditioner should be placed so as not to disturb the neighbors.
- It is unacceptable that condensate from drainage pipe running down the wall of the house. It must be taken out as far as possible.
- Like any device, the outdoor unit of the air conditioner needs periodic maintenance. Therefore, it should be located so that it can be approached without much effort and risk.
When choosing a place for the internal part of the system, there are also a number of conditions:
- It can not be placed near the elements of the heating system.
- It is unacceptable that inner part split systems closed curtains or other objects that prevented the free movement of air.
- The A/C unit processor may be damaged if placed in an area of intense electrical noise generated by household appliances. Therefore, for example, it cannot be placed in the kitchen.
Instruments
Selection necessary tool it won't be easy either. For work you will need:
- Pumps: vacuum and bicycle.
- Pipe flaring kit. Better with a pipe cutter. Copper tubes cannot be cut with another tool - sawdust will surely get inside them, which will disable the vacuum pump.
- Reamer for finishing expanded pipes.
- Pressure gauge for measuring pressure in the air conditioning system.
- Indicator screwdriver and mounting tester electrical wiring blocks.
- Perforator.
- Bay of copper pipe.
It is better to take a whole bay of tubes, with the ends rolled at the factory. You can never guess with what tool the tube was cut if you buy only a part of the coil. Copper tubes must not have dents, cracks or other defects.
Installation of the external unit of the air conditioner
It should immediately be noted that the outdoor unit of the air conditioner should be located below the indoor one.
- After marking the mounting points of the brackets, a hole is drilled for communications. Of course, in this case, it is necessary to avoid getting the drill into other communications or fittings, so the place for the hole must be chosen carefully. AT brick wall it is better to lay it along the seam of the masonry. If a concrete slab has frequent fittings, then the only way out is to drill a separate small hole for each wire or tube of the system.
- Brackets are attached to the wall with anchor bolts. You can fix the outdoor unit of the air conditioner directly on the balcony by slightly changing the mounting scheme. But in any case, it is important to maintain the level: at the slightest distortion of the system, there will be problems with the condensate drain.
- The most difficult stage of the operation is the direct installation of the external unit with your own hands. It weighs at least 60 kg, which is why this work must be done by at least two people. It may be necessary to use the help of industrial climbers or special equipment to securely fix the air conditioner to the brackets.
For normal operation system, it is necessary to leave a gap of at least 100 mm between the air conditioner case and the wall.
Installation of the indoor unit and necessary communications
Work progress:
- The indoor unit is attached by hand to the mounting plate using a latch system. The plate is securely attached to the wall at a distance of at least 10 cm from the ceiling and at least 5 cm from the corner of the room. Having lifted the inner part together, it is fixed with latches.
- The copper pipes of the air conditioner for the refrigerant supply are cut off with a margin of a meter for the expected bends. The minimum length of these communications is at least 1.5 meters. Carefully bending them, put on the nuts and flare the ends. The nuts are tightened tightly on the fittings, but without much effort.
- The drain tube is attached to the block with a threaded flange or with a piece of heat-shrinkable hose.
- The power supply of the air conditioner must be done through the machine. For a split system, its own wiring is laid with a cross section of at least 1.5 square meters. mm. yellow wire with a green stripe is usually zero. This is where an indicator and a tester come in handy.
- Both parts of the air conditioner are connected stranded wires according to the instructions in the diagram. At the slightest doubt, it is better to consult a specialist, repairing the system in case of incorrect connection will cost more.
Leak test and system filling
It is performed in the following sequence:
- A bicycle pump is attached to the nipple, and all joints and tubes are covered with soapy water. If bubbles appear during the air supply, then tighten the nuts on the fittings.
- After checking the tightness, air is pumped out of the air conditioner. A vacuum pump is attached to the nipple and runs for at least an hour. This is necessary to completely remove moisture from the system.
- By attaching a freon cylinder to the unit using an adapter with a pressure gauge, the system is filled until the pressure specified in the instructions is reached. Then turn on the power supply through the machine.
If the air conditioner independently switched to the system test mode, then everything worked out. If not, then starting from the remote might help. Otherwise, you will have to call the wizard.
At a positive result it remains only to insulate the wiring harness between the blocks with foil and waterproof electrical tape, after which the hole in the wall is blown with foam. Everything, you can enjoy the operation of the air conditioner.
