Five typical mistakes when building a blind area: what professionals do not recommend doing. Do-it-yourself concrete pavement around the house Low tide around the house

No building can do without a solid foundation to support its weight and ensure the integrity of the entire structure, but it also needs additional protection. If necessary, each person can make a concrete pavement around the house with their own hands, without using the services of professional builders. This process is not very complicated, but it requires careful fulfillment of a number of requirements.

Requirements for the blind area, arrangement rules

This design serves as additional protection for the base of the building, preventing the destructive influence of groundwater and the environment. In addition to protection, it also performs an aesthetic function - a building with a blind area acquires a complete appearance. Before concreting the blind area with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with a number of requirements:

To successfully create a blind area, you should draw up a drawing. You can make it yourself, focusing on standard projects, or turn to specialists. If necessary, it can be limited with . Being a decorative element, it also increases the integrity of the structure and protects against penetration of the roots of trees or shrubs.

Borders are mandatory if you create a blind area around the house from screenings or crushed stone, and if poplar, plane tree, raspberry and blackberry grow nearby.

Do-it-yourself materials for creating a concrete blind area around the house

Before starting work, you need to prepare all the necessary materials and a diagram. Strengthening the foundation should be consistent, but the whole process should take a minimum of time. In most cases, when drawing up a project, you can use typical concrete blind areas, making adjustments to the scheme in accordance with the characteristics of your region. You will need the following materials:

1. Concrete. The resulting mixture must comply with the characteristics of the class from B3.5 to B8. When creating it, cement of the M 400 brand will be the best.
2. Sand. As a pillow, you can use river or quarry sand. The material used when mixing the mixture must be soft, the presence of large impurities is not allowed.
3. Crushed stone or gravel. Fraction of crushed stone for blind area at home - 10-20. It is used as a filler for a concrete mixture, or as a base material.
4. Clay or geotextile. This material is used when arranging a concrete blind area with your own hands for additional protection against moisture, which is important for regions with high humidity.

It is determined by the brand of cement used and its specific gravity as a percentage of the elements of the solution. A good solution would be the material M400 Portland cement. Used cement must be fresh. If the powder forms lumps when squeezed in the hand, it will soon become unusable. The grade of selected cement depends on the planned thickness of the blind area made of concrete. Recommended proportions for mixing 1 m 3 solution:

• water - 190 l;
• filler (screening or crushed stone) - 0.8 m 3;
• sand - 0.5 m 3
• plasticizers (liquid glass and the like) - 2.4 l;
• cement - 320 kg.

When calculating the size of the blind area around the house, you should prepare the required amount of building materials in advance. It is also important to follow the order of feeding materials, which is necessary to ensure the desired consistency. Compliance with the technology will achieve the desired result and create a reliable design. When all the requirements are met, you can effectively equip the concrete pavement around the house with your own hands.

The amount of water supplied is of great importance. Excess will reduce the strength of the resulting concrete. Lack of water will not allow it to harden properly.

How to make a blind area for the foundation with your own hands - step by step instructions

The required amount of cement is poured into a concrete mixer or other mixing container, and then it is filled with water. When mixing, a "cement milk" is formed, into which other components are fed. Next, sand is added in small portions, while the mixture should be constantly mixed. Next, the filler is poured (crushed stone or screenings). If you know in advance which crushed stone is better for the blind area, and you have selected the material of the correct fraction, mixing will not be difficult.

To ensure more efficient mixing, wait 5 minutes after adding each component.

Once the materials are prepared, you can get to work. The blind area around the house includes the following steps:

Also, before pouring, an expansion joint is installed between the blind area and the plinth using boards or plywood sheets - this measure will protect the concrete from destruction when the temperature changes.

Installation of blind area from crushed stone

A more economical option would be to use crushed stone as the main fill material. The same requirements are imposed on its arrangement as on the blind area made of concrete, however, reinforcement and the creation of an expansion joint are not required here. An additional layer of waterproofing (geotextile) is installed between the crushed stone and the sand "cushion". This will prevent the crushed stone and sand from mixing, and will prevent plants from growing from seeds that may have been left in the "cushion".

You can make a blind area from rubble with your own hands without much effort. Large fraction material can be used to fill the bottom of the trench. From above, to give a decorative effect, fine gravel is used. Such a blind area also successfully protects the foundation from the destructive effects of groundwater and the environment. With the right approach, you can give it a neat and attractive appearance.

Do-it-yourself concrete blind area from A to Z - video

One of the ways to protect the foundation is to create a blind area around the house. This design is able to prevent the penetration of moisture to the bearing base and protect the base of the house from deformation and destruction.

Blind area and selection rules

The main elements of the blind area are the substrate and the coating, each of them has a specific function.

The substrate creates a solid and even base, on which a protective coating is subsequently laid. The substrate is made of clay or a mixture of sand and gravel.

The second layer - a protective coating - can be made of any material with high strength characteristics and excellent waterproofing properties. Therefore, in most cases, you can find a concrete, asphalt, stone or tile blind area.

There are several types of construction, each of which can be used on the ground with certain characteristics.

Hard blind area

This design is made of hard surfaces, such as concrete or asphalt, which contributes to increased resistance to mechanical stress. It is mandatory to equip a heat-insulating and waterproofing layer, therefore, the service life of a rigid blind area in most cases is equated to the operational period of the main structure. This type can only be installed on soils of medium or high density.

Soft blind area

A design of this type is equipped according to a simplified technology, does not require large material and labor costs. To create it, several layers of bulk material are poured. The average service life is about 5 years, so most often a soft blind area is used as a temporary option. In addition, the appearance of such a design does not attract much attention. As for the type of soil on which a soft blind area can be laid, there are no restrictions here.

Semi-rigid blind area

Already by the name we can say that this option is intermediate between the previous types of blind area. This applies to both material and physical costs. The protective layer can be made of paving slabs, stone or reinforced concrete slabs. This allows you to repair any part of the blind area without compromising the entire structure. A semi-rigid blind area cannot be equipped in areas where there is a high location of groundwater and deep freezing of the soil. In addition, it is used with limitation on heaving soil.

Materials for the manufacture of blind areas

Different materials can be used as a protective coating for the blind area, its choice depends on several factors. In particular, we are talking about the following:

• Construction budget. If the arrangement of the blind area is not limited by material costs, then it is best to use expensive materials. In this case, the emphasis is on the quality of the design. With a small budget, preference is given to cheaper options.
• Specifications. If the structure will be constantly subjected to mechanical stress, then a material with high strength characteristics is chosen.
• aesthetic requirements. In some cases, the main criterion for evaluating a design is its attractiveness, therefore, when choosing a coating for a blind area, the aesthetic characteristics of the material are taken into account.

In addition, the positive and negative aspects of the coating used should be studied and taken into account.

concrete pavers

One of the most popular types of pavement is concrete pavement. The high demand for this material is explained by a wide choice of colors and shapes. In addition, the elements have different lengths and widths, which allows you to realize any design solution. Installation of paving stones is not difficult, so it is possible to independently carry out the workflow. The main advantage of the material is its strength and resistance to low air temperatures.

Elements of this type of coating have a natural appearance, as they are made of natural materials, granite and basalt. It should be noted that such a coating requires significant material costs, therefore it is used with a sufficient budget for construction.

Concrete

A more economical option is a concrete blind area. The advantage of such a coating is maximum water resistance, the disadvantage is not a very attractive appearance. In some cases, to enhance the aesthetics, concrete is decorated with natural stone.

paving slabs

Such a blind area has many positive characteristics, among them the following can be distinguished:

• Different sizes of elements.
• Wide choice of colors.
• Various surface textures.
• The ability to replace a single element without dismantling the entire structure.

rubble

The easiest and most affordable option is to use gravel as the top layer of the blind area. In addition, this material is most suitable when the groundwater is high and there is a drainage system around the house.

Making a concrete blind area with your own hands

In most cases, private developers prefer concrete pavement. It is quite possible to make such a design with your own hands, if you follow the technology and listen to the recommendations of experienced craftsmen. The construction process is divided into several stages.

Excavation

To equip the blind area along the outer perimeter of the house, they dig a trench with a depth of about 30-35 cm. As for the width of the trench, it depends on the size of the cornice and gable overhang and should protrude beyond the edges of these roof elements. Experts recommend using a value equal to half the depth of the foundation, but not less than 0.6 meters. On subsiding soils, it is allowed to make a blind area up to 2 meters wide.

At the bottom of the finished trench, a clay castle up to 12 cm high is made; for this, high-fat clay should be used. A kind of pillow is formed on top of the clay, which will reduce the impact of seasonal soil movements. First, a layer of crushed stone 5-6 cm thick is poured and it is well compacted. Next, sand is covered with a layer of up to 10 cm and also carefully compacted. In the process of creating the bedding, the level must be controlled, the thickness of the layer of sand and gravel must be the same at all points of the trench. The top level of the finished pillow should be 5-6 cm below the planned blind area.

A groove 2 cm wide and about 2 cm deep is made along the outer edge of the trench.

So that sand and gravel do not mix with each other and do not reduce the strength characteristics of the blind area, you can separate them with a sheet of geological textiles.

Creation of formwork and armored belt

To create the formwork, boards of sizes 2 * 10 cm are used, they are knocked together into shields in two pieces and connected with jumpers every half a meter. The structure is installed along the side of the trench parallel to the foundation. The height of the formwork must correspond to the final level of the blind area. To strengthen the outer side of the shields, wooden stakes are placed in increments of 1.5 meters and sprinkled with soil.

To create an armored belt, steel rods with a cross section of 8 mm are used, of which a mesh is made with a cell size of 20 * 20 cm. The reinforcing structure is laid in one row on special substrates about 5 cm high.

Preparation and pouring of concrete

Before preparing the concrete mixture, the required volume should be calculated. This can be done using a simple mathematical formula, multiplying the height by the length and by the width of the blind area.

Concrete must have a strength class of at least B25, so cement, sand and gravel are taken in a ratio of 1: 2: 3.5 (read also our article about). In some cases, when preparing concrete, a liquid detergent is used, adding it 1 tbsp. spoon on a bucket of solution. Experienced craftsmen believe that in this case, the frost resistance of concrete and its resistance to water absorption increase.

The concrete solution is poured immediately to the upper level, then it is pierced over the entire area with a bayonet shovel to remove voids. You can use internal vibrators for this.

The formation of transverse expansion joints will prevent deformation and destruction of the blind area. This is especially true for areas under the open sun.

After pouring, it is necessary to level the surface of the blind area and remove depressions in which water can accumulate.

The finished structure is left for 7-10 days to gain the required strength. At this time, the surface should be protected from the hot sun and precipitation, for which they regularly spray and cover the blind area with a film.

After two weeks after pouring, the formwork is removed and wet ironing is carried out. To do this, take an equal amount of sand and cement, dilute with milk of lime with the addition of liquid glass. The finished composition should have the consistency of thick cream.

The ironing process is carried out as follows:

1. The surface is moistened.
2. With the help of a metal brush, the structure of the upper layer is broken.
3. The resulting dust is removed and the blind area is moistened again.
4. After drying, the mixture for ironing is poured onto the surface and leveled with a wide spatula, moving it along the structure.

Soft blind area device

Unlike a rigid structure, a soft blind area does not have a hard top coating. To make a soft structure yourself, you must adhere to the following scheme:

1. Perform site marking.
2. They dig a trench about 0.8 meters wide and about 0.4 meters deep.
3. A clay castle is made at the bottom.
4. The clay layer is covered with a waterproofing material, bringing its edges to the wall.
5. Pour a small layer of sand, compact it.
6. Cover the sand with geotextile.
7. Equip a gravel bed.
8. The geological textile is laid again and covered with sand.
9. Equip the top layer of the blind area from the selected material.

A do-it-yourself blind area will not only protect the foundation from getting wet and cracking, but will also delight with its appearance throughout its entire service life.

There is nothing secondary in construction. All structural elements of buildings and structures must be approached responsibly.

One of the final types of work at a construction site is a blind area. It is carried out at the end of the construction of the house, in parallel with the construction of an external staircase or entrance to the garage, but after the facade of the building or at least the basement has been finished.

blind area- this is a strip 0.6-1.2 m wide adjacent to the foundation or basement of the building with a slope, "descent" from it. The slope of the blind area must be at least 1% (1 cm per 1 m) and not more than 10% (10 cm per 1 m).

Do you need a blind area?

The main task of the blind area is to drain surface "rain and melt" water from the walls and foundation of the house. The blind area prevents the penetration of surface water to the base of the foundation, and is also a decorative element of external improvement, forming a sidewalk around the house.

In addition, the blind area does not allow the lawn or plants to grow close to the walls of the house, preventing excessive moisture of its structures and damage to the foundation by the roots of trees and shrubs.

blind area design

The traditional blind area consists of two main layers - a decorative coating and an underlying layer.

Underlayment

The underlying layer serves to create a compacted and even base for further laying the blind area. As an underlying layer, it is used: sand, gravel, clay. The choice of material depends on the top cover of the blind area.

decorative coating

The covering of the blind area must be primarily waterproof and difficult to wash out with water.

In the old days, the blind area was made of clay: they dug a shallow trench around the perimeter of the house and filled it with clay, which was compacted with a slope away from the house and moistened, creating a water-resistant layer, on the surface of which rain and melt water flowed.

Today, when constructing a blind area, clay is replaced with concrete - it allows you to get a monolithic surface without cracks, which is especially important when there is no certainty that the foundation is waterproofed. If the foundation is properly insulated, then piece materials can be used for the blind area - paving slabs (paving stones), crushed stone, slabs.

blind area device

blind area level

The height of the base depends on the type of material from which the blind area is made. If it is gravel or crushed stone, it is enough to raise the base to a height of 30 cm. If it is a hard and flat surface (for example, concrete or paving slabs), the height of the base must be increased to 50 cm.

blind area width

The width of the blind area is set depending on the type of soil and the removal of the cornice overhangs of the roof. On ordinary soils, the width is taken 20 cm wider than the eaves (but not less than 60 cm), so that the water flowing from the roof does not erode the soil and does not stagnate under the house. On subsidence soils 20-30 cm beyond the slopes of trenches or pits, torn off under the foundation, but not less than 90 cm.

blind area slope

For cobblestone and crushed stone blind areas, the transverse slope from the axis of the house is taken within 5-10% (5-10 cm per 1 m of width). For concrete and asphalt 3-5%. At the same time, the steeper the slope, the better the water is drained and the more inconvenient the blind area becomes as a footpath around the house.

Gap between wall and deck

When constructing a blind area, you should remember about the gap between it and the wall. Its purpose is to protect against damage and destruction of the waterproofing of basement walls. If there is no gap, then the blind area made of paving stones or slabs under the influence of frost will put pressure on the wall, and as a result of walking on it, it will settle and damage the insulation on the outer surface of the foundation wall. The facing material may also be damaged, for example, the tiles on the plinth may crumble.

To prevent this, it is necessary to leave an expansion joint 1-2 cm thick and fill it with sand, extruded polystyrene foam or sealant.

Drainage around the blind area

Only a blind area of ​​3 or more meters wide can guarantee complete drainage of water from the foundation and its “dry mode”, which of course is not always realistic, so it is worth using additional protection - a stormwater and drainage device.

For hard blind areas such as concrete and slabs, surface linear drainage is suitable - a drainage groove or gutter along the outer line of a blind area made of stone, concrete, plastic or asbestos-cement pipes, sawn in two along the length. And don't forget about their biases!

Good ready-made drainage elements, complete with upper protective gratings (plastic or polymer concrete). Ready-made trays for drainage, having a drain pipe and an upper grate, adapted for installation in the prepared plane of the foundation blind area.

Blind area from paving slabs
(paving stones)

One of the most commonly used paving materials is concrete pavers. It is resistant to frost and temperature extremes. Paving stones are available in different colors and shapes: rectangle, square, hexagon, wave, etc. The edges of the paving stones can be smooth or chamfered, which significantly reduces the risk of chipping the edges. Paving stones are produced with a thickness of 4-10 cm, a width of 6-20 cm and a length of 10-28 cm. For the blind area, elements 4-6 cm thick are most often used.

stone paving is a natural material and, compared to concrete, does not have such a variety of shapes. Usually it is a cube or parallelepiped made of gray, red or yellow granite, as well as black basalt. Of course, it costs much more than concrete analogues.

Laying the blind area

Prior to the commencement of work on the installation of a blind area around the building, all work must be completed, the execution of which can lead to damage to the blind area, namely:

• the roof, cornice overhangs and canopies over the entrances were arranged;
• metal-covered plums of window openings;
• All fixtures for drainpipes and fire escapes have been installed.

Pegs are hammered in the corners of the building, on which the height of the blind area adjoining the basement is marked, and according to these marks, a cord is fixed around the entire perimeter of the building. A second line of pegs is installed along the outer edge of the blind area. They mark the height of the outer edge of the future concrete pavement of the blind area.

To drain rainwater, the blind area is made with a slope (at the base, the thickness of the coating is 15 cm, and at the opposite edge, 10 cm). The transverse slope from the basement of the building is - 5% (5 cm per 1.0 m of width).

First of all, it is necessary to determine the width of the blind area, which depends not only on the wishes of customers. This parameter is largely determined by the type of soil and the width of the removal of the eaves of the roof overhangs. On ordinary soils, the blind area should be 20 cm wider than the eaves overhang (its minimum width is 60 cm). In the event that the building is built on subsiding soils, the width of the blind area should be at least 90 cm. Sometimes it is made 1.0 m wide or more - in this case, the blind area, as a rule, performs the function of a path around the house.

The construction of the blind area begins with the removal of vegetation around the house and the removal of the vegetation layer to a depth of 15 cm. Carefully remove the remnants of the roots so that in the future the sprouts that have broken through do not destroy the coating.

Along the stretched twine, which marks the longitudinal line of the edges of the blind area, a trench of rectangular section (trough) is manually torn off to make a base for the blind area. The bottom of the trough is compacted.

On the prepared bottom of the trough, crushed stone of the M400 brand is manually scattered with a layer of 15 cm at the base and 10 cm at the opposite edge, leveled with giving the layer a design slope of 5%. The thickness of the crushed stone layer in the loose body must exceed the design one by the loosening factor. A prepared crushed stone surface is considered when the mobility of individual particles is not felt.

On the prepared crushed stone base, a leveling (mounting) layer of a dry sand-cement mixture 3 cm thick is manually arranged. A tight fit of the slabs to the base is achieved by settling them during laying and immersing the slab into the mounting layer of a dry sand-cement mixture for the final landing of the slabs to a predetermined mark.

Laying of paving slabs should be carried out from any conditional line: the edge of the plinth, parallel to which the seams are located, or a verst row laid perpendicular to the plinth, on both sides or one from it. Alignment of the edges of the plates is carried out along a stretched wire or cord located along the stacked row. The slabs are laid in transverse rows from edge to edge towards the slope.

To maintain the slope and evenness of the coating when laying paving slabs in the blind area, it is necessary:

• arrange a verst row along or perpendicular to the base;
• laying of plates to start from the edge of the blind area and lead towards the slope to the base;
• align the laid slabs with a light tapping with a rubber (wooden) hammer on a wooden gasket lying on the tile.

Alignment of the laid plates is carried out by light tapping with wooden rammers. Ledges in the seams of adjacent plates should not exceed 2 mm. The roller formed at the edges of the slabs from the sand-cement mixture is cut off with a manual template.

The width of the seam between the plates should be 3-5 mm. The seams between the slabs are filled with a cement-sand mixture in a ratio of 1:3.

Concrete pavement

Concrete pavement is one of the cheapest and easiest solutions. It is this material that makes the blind area waterproof.

The blind area should be at least 5 cm thick (recommended 7-10 cm). The concrete used for the blind area must correspond to road concrete in terms of frost resistance and the grade must be at least M200.

The blind area of ​​monolithic concrete should be arranged on a sandy base, compacted to a density coefficient of at least 0.98. The minimum preparation thickness in this case is 10 cm.

expansion joints

The concrete blind area must not only be separated from the wall with an expansion joint, but also divided with expansion joints every 6 m of its length. Practice shows that a solid fill cracks in the very first winter. For seams, a tarred or antiseptic-treated board 15-20 mm thick, laid on the edge, is suitable.

The upper surface of the wooden slats is located at the level of the concrete surface, taking into account the slight slope of the blind area from the house. After that, concrete is laid, and the slats serve as so-called beacons, along which the concrete surface is leveled.

Reinforcement of the blind area

To increase the service life of a concrete blind area, especially on heaving soils, it is recommended to reinforce it. This is necessary in order for the blind area to work both in compression and in tension. Concrete works in compression, and reinforcement works in tension.

Reinforcement is carried out with a metal mesh with cells of 100x100 mm or iron bars overlapped.

Iron blind area

At the final stage of manufacturing a concrete blind area (approximately 1-2 hours after pouring the next section), in order to further strengthen the surface, it should be ironed. Freshly poured concrete is sprinkled with cement, creating a layer 3-7 mm thick, and rubbed with a trowel. As a result, the material is protected from atmospheric precipitation by a very durable and stable top layer, which has a characteristic dark blue, steel shade.

So that the concrete does not crumble during rapid drying, its surface should be covered (for 2-3 days) with wet burlap or plastic wrap.

After the concrete has hardened, it is necessary to seal the seam between the blind area and the wall of the house, for which bitumen or sealant is suitable.

The blind area works in the most unfavorable conditions for concrete, therefore it is good and correct to use only high-quality cement or concrete, to which it is desirable to add to protect against freezing.

Asphalt pavement

The base for the asphalt concrete pavement should be compacted with crushed stone (15 cm) or gravel with a particle size of 40-60 mm, pressed into the ground with a roller or rammer. An asphalt coating (3 cm) is arranged on top.

The device of a blind area made of asphalt concrete is quite difficult and this material cannot be called popular in private construction. In summer, if the asphalt is very hot, it can soften and give off an unpleasant odor.

Blind area from crushed stone

The crushed stone blind area is the cheapest option for coating. This is an ideal solution for high groundwater levels and where drainage is being done around the building, as the rubble encourages surface water infiltration. Instead of crushed stone, you can use gravel, pebbles, expanded clay. It is recommended to use a crushed stone fraction of 8-32 mm.

A special geotextile material is laid on the compacted mainland soil, crushed stone is scattered on top of it - without sand backfilling. Geotextiles prevent coarse granules from mixing with soil and weeds from germinating. The thickness of the gravel layer is about 10 cm.

However, with unorganized drainage from the roof (i.e., when water does not flow down the gutters, but directly from the entire slope), the coating will have to be regularly corrected.

It should be noted that it will not be possible to compact the granules of the same size tightly, therefore, it will be uncomfortable to walk on them.

Due to geological features, the house is exposed to external factors not only from the atmosphere, but also from the soil. The blind area around the house is one of the stages of complex protection that allows you to protect the building from the manifestations of nature (rain, melt, groundwater). The roof and drainage system protects the walls and the house itself from water, but precipitation flows to the ground near the building and destroys the foundation. What is a blind area? Why do you need a foundation blind area, what is its purpose and how to do it yourself?

What is a blind area at home

The blind area is a coating around the perimeter of the house, designed to protect the foundation, basement and basement from water. It is made of waterproof material sloped from the foundation.

Why do you need a blind area around the house (functions):

• hydrobarrier - protection of the foundation of the building from moisture. First of all, rain and melt water is diverted away from the foundation with the help of a blind area. In addition, the presence of a blind area informs the thermal insulation properties of the foundation;

• comfort - the blind area can be used as a path around the house. A wide blind area can become the basis for arranging a recreation area or terrace near the house. With the correct calculation of the load, it is possible to organize the movement of a car or its parking along the blind area;

• aesthetics - designing the design of the site and the adjacent territory, giving the structure completeness.

• the blind area stabilizes the air-gas regime in the soil surrounding the foundation. The composition of the soil invariably includes oxygen, which is necessary for the growth of plants and the vital activity of soil microorganisms. Large pests also create passages for air to enter the soil;

• eliminates the possibility of damage to the foundation due to frost heaving of soils. It occurs due to the fact that water, solidifying in the soil during the cold season, increases its volume. Soil heaving in itself does not pose any threat, however, it creates a significant lateral load on the foundation of the house, which can result in a distortion of the foundation of the house, which will ultimately lead to the destruction of the building standing on it. Thus, the blind area device allows you to more evenly distribute the load.

Types of blind area around the house

Taking into account the fact that the period of operation of the blind area should be equal to the period of operation of the building itself, special attention should be paid to the choice of material for its construction.

In practice, several approaches are used to make a blind area, but in general it is classified either as a hard or soft category.

Hard blind area

1. Concrete pavement

The blind area is made of concrete in the vast majority of cases. Concrete is a reliable, time-tested and more than one generation of user material. Almost every man has an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bhow to make a concrete blind area. And knowing the nuances of its filling, he can do the work with his own hands.

It is mostly used as protection for the foundation of multi-storey buildings. This is due to two factors. Firstly, the complexity of tamping the material (requires considerable effort). Secondly, in order to keep the asphalt in a condition suitable for pouring, its temperature should be about 120 degrees. Agree, it is difficult to make a blind area from asphalt without special equipment. Thirdly, asphalt emits harmful impurities when heated, and therefore few users are ready to replace the clean air of a country house with a typical urban aroma.

3. Blind area of ​​ceramic tiles

Belongs to the category of rigid, because the tile is laid on a concrete mortar. As a facing material, clinker tiles are used, as they are more resistant to external influences. Such a blind area copes well with its functions, but the cost of clinker tiles is high. Therefore, its analogue - concrete paving slabs - has become more widespread.

Soft blind area

4. Blind area of ​​paving slabs (paving stones)

A relatively new direction in the device for protecting the foundation from the effects of water. Despite the novelty of the material (or rather, the old one, because it is a prototype of paving stones - a cheaper analogue), laying paving slabs with your own hands does not cause any particular difficulties.

5. Blind area made of gravel (crushed stone) or natural stone

The gravel pavement (from cobblestone, rubble stone) has not become popular for several reasons: the complexity of tamping, the inconvenience of movement, the need to constantly correct the coating (it can be washed away by unorganized drainage), the possibility of weed germination. A blind area made of stone is a good option, but installation is more difficult and expensive compared to tiles.

6. Hidden blind area around the house

In this case, the soil acts as the front material, on which you can plant lawn grass, flowers, arrange flower beds. A blind area of ​​a hidden type is made according to the general principle: the top layer of the earth is removed, a layer of waterproofing is covered, a layer of sand and gravel. The difference is that the top of the cake is covered with geotextile or PVP membrane, on top of which soil is poured. It is undesirable to walk along the hidden blind area, there is a risk of damaging the profiled membrane and trampling the grass. But, properly executed, it will serve faithfully for a long time.

Which blind area is better - from paving slabs or from concrete

Each of the above types of blind area has its own advantages, disadvantages and construction features. According to statistics and reviews, today the most popular (more often used) blind areas are poured from concrete and lined with tiles. Therefore, it would be correct within the article to consider which is better, concrete or paving slabs for a blind area?

This question is asked by many masters and users. Practical operating experience indicates the effectiveness of tiles. The pros are as follows:

• the ability to create a solid, durable and stable blind area. At the same time, it is much more difficult to ensure the integrity of the concrete blind area than the tiled one;

• maintainability. The tile can be dismantled completely or partially. Thus, the process of repairing the blind area or laying communications is greatly simplified. In the case of concrete, it is required to destroy part of the blind area, dispose of the concrete fractions, and after laying it, restore it again. Eliminate subsidence of tiles or replace a defective element in the blind area of ​​tiles is not difficult and does not take much time. And most importantly, tiles can be reused;

• reliability. The tiled blind area drains water well due to the large number of seams. This allows us to assert that it is not deformed as a result of heaving of the soil or freezing of water. Water that has frozen on the surface of the concrete pavement can lead to local cracking of the material. At first, these cracks will not pose a threat, but each subsequent flooding will cause the crack to expand and the blind area to collapse.

  Another nuance is the place where the blind area adjoins the house. As you know, the blind area should not form a single structure from the foundations (should not be associated with it). Soil movement, freeze/thaw cycles will inevitably break this bond. When laying tiles, it is easier to provide the required technological gap. In addition, the destruction of concrete occurs most often precisely at the place of its junction with the foundation or basement (the blind area leaves);

• foundation insulation. The paving slab laying technology provides for the arrangement of several layers, incl. the use of clay and the possibility of laying insulation. The insulated blind area of ​​the foundation is an additional protection of the basement, basement floor, which reduces heat loss and, ultimately, leads to savings on heating the house;

• plinth height reduction. With a rigid blind area (made of concrete), the minimum height of the plinth must be at least 500 mm. With soft (tiles, paving stones, gravel, natural stone), a height of 300 mm will be sufficient. This reduces the cost of building a base;

• ease of work, no need for a reinforcing frame, a minimum of debris, a slight dustiness of work;

• additional waterproofing of the foundation blind area. While the concrete pavement protects the foundation only from the influence of surface water (rain or melt), the clay hydraulic lock, which is made by forming a pillow for laying paving slabs, allows you to protect the base of the building from groundwater;

• more aesthetic, in comparison with the concrete blind area, appearance. A variety of styling options, designs, sizes and colors allows you to create a unique blind area.

The main advantage that led to the use of concrete as a material for blind areas is its cheapness. Buying paving slabs and materials for laying it will cost more, even if you do it yourself.

The cost of blind area of ​​a private house

In order not to be unfounded, we will give a brief comparative description, i.e. we will indicate in the table the prices for the blind area made of concrete and paving slabs. All prices for 2015, approximate, are presented for review, as a guideline for budgeting.

The cost of a blind area made of concrete (width 1 m, thickness 10 cm)

* we are talking about additives (plasticizers), which give concrete additional properties (strength, frost resistance). The addition of plasticizers to the composition of the concrete solution is at the discretion of the master. In the above "classic" recipe, their cost is not taken into account.

** for the formation of formwork when pouring the blind area, in practice, old boards or used plywood are used. Therefore, their cost is also taken into account.

The cost of the blind area of ​​paving slabs 1 meter wide

How long does it take to install a blind area

An important point, focusing on the experience of arranging blind areas of various types, you can give an estimated time for the construction of each of them. The calculation was made based on the total time spent by one person to make a blind area of ​​​​50 sq.m.

• The performance of all work on preparing the base, forming the formwork and pouring the concrete blind area is approximately 40-50 minutes. per 1 sq.m. (20-25 minutes when using ready-mixed concrete).

• Pillow filling and tile laying 1 sq.m. takes 60-70 min. Moreover, much time is spent on the process of tamping the base.

It should be noted that with an increase in square meters (area), the speed of work increases.

How to make a blind area around the house with your own hands - video

Device blind area at home - SniP and GOST

The second aspect that needs to be taken into account before you start building a blind area with your own hands is the provisions and recommendations of regulatory documents. These include:

GOST 9128-97. Mixes asphalt concrete road, airfield and asphalt concrete. Contain recommendations on determining the angle of inclination of the blind area.

GOST 7473-94. Concrete mixes. Contain requirements for the quality of the concrete used for arranging the blind area. It is required when arranging a blind area that acts as a driveway for a car.

SNiP 2.04.02-84. Water supply. External networks and structures. SNiP regulates the construction of a blind area around the well, contains recommendations for choosing the angle of inclination, as well as for arranging a castle made of clay or greasy loam.

SNiP 2.02.01-83 Foundations of buildings and structures. Regulates the main parameters of the blind area device (dimensions):

1. The width of the blind area around the house (foundation)

It is determined from the position of the type of soil. As you know, soil with different composition sags in different ways. For example, clay soil is divided into two types:

• Type 1 soil does not sag under its own weight or its subsidence is no more than 50 mm and can be caused by external factors.

• Soil of the 2nd type, can sag under its own weight.

Thus, based on the soil data, the composition and thickness of the base layers for laying paving slabs is selected. Based on the position of SNiP, the craftsmen determine how wide the blind area around the house should be.

It has been verified by practice that for the 1st type of soil, the minimum width of the blind area should be at least 700 mm, for the 2nd - at least 1,000 mm.

If there is normal soil on the site, the optimal width of the blind area can be 800-1,000 mm. In this case, the width can be considered sufficient if it exceeds the overhang of the roofing material above the load-bearing walls by 200 mm (for normal soil) and 600 mm for type 2 clay soil.

The final decision on how wide the foundation blind area should be depends on the users and the purpose of the blind area. Which can be as follows: only protection of the foundation, protection + episodic human movement, protection + heavy pedestrian traffic (for example, a terrace or gazebo) or protection + car traffic.

Such parameters as the length and height (thickness) of the blind area are not regulated by SNiP. Users are advised to take them as:

2. The length of the blind area around the house

3. Thickness (height) of the blind area around the house

The minimum thickness of the blind area: at least 70 mm, optimally - 100-150 mm.

Note. The height of the blind area is not determined to zero. It should rise above the soil by at least 50 mm.

For the blind area that performs the function of a pedestrian zone, the requirements are becoming more stringent. They mainly relate to the pillow device. For the automobile zone, it is desirable to make the most solid base and, when choosing paving slabs, give preference not to vibro-cast, but to vibro-pressed.

SNiP III-10-75 Landscaping. The standard regulates the installation site of the blind area. It should fit snugly against the plinth at an angle. At the same time, the slope of the blind area should be within 1-10% in the direction opposite to the bearing wall.

4. The slope of the blind area at home

The angle of inclination of the blind area is measured in percent and degrees. For 1 m of the width of the blind area, the slope should be 10-100 mm, i.e. 1-10%. In practice, the slope does not exceed 15-20 mm per 1 linear meter. Such a slope is invisible visually, but does an excellent job of draining water from the foundation and basement of the house.

Note. A large slope can cause the flow of water to increase speed when moving along the blind area and, gaining strength, quickly destroy its outer edge.

Another document worth considering is "Schemes for operational quality control of construction, repair and construction and installation works." Based on it, you can study the permissible deviations from the specified standards.

5. Compensation seam in the blind area (deformation, temperature)

To compensate for the movement of the blind area and reduce the pressure on the foundation, an expansion joint is provided - a gap between the wall (plinth) and the blind area. A thermal seam is formed by installing an insulation sheet or several layers of roofing material to the vertical surface. Sometimes a wooden board is installed at the junction, which is then removed, and the place of its installation is sealed (covered) with sand. This is a laborious method, because it is quite difficult to remove a board from hardened concrete.

Conclusion

The information provided from the theoretical part will become a useful basis in arranging a blind area around the house with your own hands. Knowing how to make a blind area correctly, you can be sure that the created structure will last a long time and efficiently.

The blind area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house, compared with its foundation, has an incomparably lower cost. Making a good blind area is much easier than building a foundation. But all of the above does not mean at all that attention to this important detail should also be much less, which, alas, often happens. The blind area, in comparison with the entire structure of the house, may seem like a small cog, but the “health” and long life of the entire structure greatly depend on it.

In the article, we are going to consider in detail how to make a blind area around the house, and how to do it correctly, as well as consider different options and indicate in which cases it is advisable to use them. Recommended building materials that should be used to create a good blind area at home will be considered.

What is a blind area and why is it needed?

A blind area is usually called a strip of waterproof coating that encircles the entire house around the perimeter. Most often, we are used to observing blind areas made of concrete or asphalt, however, everything is not limited to these two materials. The main task of the classical blind area is to prevent atmospheric water from entering the foundation structure and into the soils located near it. Why is this being done?

• Firstly, water that has got to the structure of the base of the foundation can soak the soil near it, and if it is shallow, this can lead to freezing and the appearance of heaving forces. Particularly dangerous are the so-called heaving soils, which include clay and loamy soils. The forces of frost heaving are simply enormous, they are trying to squeeze the house out of the ground. If they are distributed unevenly over the foundation, this can lead to cracks and even destruction of the house.

• Secondly, the forces of frost heaving act not only on the sole, but also on the side structures of the foundation. In building science, such forces are called tangential heaving. According to experts, 1 m² of wall can have a load of 5-7 tons. Not every design will be able to withstand this. The blind area is designed to minimize the ingress of water from above.
• Thirdly, waterlogged soil with poor waterproofing of the foundation can cause water to enter the premises of the basement. Even good waterproofing does not always save you from leaks or high humidity. After all, the proverb is well known to everyone: "Water will always find a hole." And here the blind area also plays a role, reducing the humidity of the soil adjacent to the foundation.
• And, finally, a poorly made blind area will provoke its own destruction, which will have a bad effect on its protective and decorative qualities.

The creation of a high-quality blind area at home is included in the set of measures for waterproofing the foundation and its drainage - wall or ring. By itself, she is “not a warrior in the field” and will be able to fulfill her main protective purpose only together with other elements. Why do you need a blind area at home?

• As noted earlier, the blind area prevents the penetration of atmospheric water to the foundation of the building. Water that has fallen on the blind area must drain from it and enter the surface drainage system.
• The blind area, provided it is insulated, prevents the soil from freezing under it and therefore reduces or eliminates the occurrence of frost heaving forces. Best of all, this function works in conjunction with the insulation of the foundation. In the countries of northern Europe, insulation of foundations and a blind area have long been mandatory measures in the construction of houses.
• The blind area can serve as a sidewalk along which people move.
• The blind area performs a decorative function. thanks to her, any house in combination with the decoration of the walls and the plinth has a harmonious and complete look. We can say that the blind area is one of the important elements of landscape design.

Almost all houses and buildings need a blind area. For a strip, slab, monolithic-strip foundation, it is simply necessary. If the house is built on a pile or, then the blind area will only perform a decorative function.

What are the blind areas

Consider what types of blind areas exist so that there is an “opportunity” to try on one or another option to your conditions and choose the most suitable one.

Clay blind areas

This type of blind area is rooted in the distant past. It was this material that our distant ancestors used to protect the foundation of their house from moisture. And, despite the fact that this method of creating a blind area may seem archaic, which is long overdue to be sent "to the dustbin of history," it may well be used on modern buildings. Everyone knows the properties of clay - its plasticity, fire resistance and the main quality - water resistance. This material is the best natural waterproofing. Almost all underground sources of artesian water are enclosed precisely between clay layers. Another useful property of clay is that it is impossible for any plants to grow on it. Of course, if the clay has a certain degree of its purity.

Such a blind area is made very easily. The fertile soil layer is removed to a given width and depth, and then clay is poured and compacted. It is better to use clean quarry clay. The profile of the blind area is given a slope in the direction from the wall to its edge, and then the clay is reinforced with gravel or crushed stone, which must be imprinted into its layer. An interesting composite coating is formed. Clay provides reliable waterproofing and plasticity, and crushed stone or gravel provide the necessary rigidity of the blind area and prevent water erosion. The clay pavement, together with crushed stone or gravel, looks good and can even become an element of home decor, especially wood. The clay blind area will never crack, it is easy to repair. She can serve for decades. Surely, many have met unpaved roads on clay soils, which are reinforced with stones. They've been around for a long time and will last a long time. Even trucks in rainy weather do not “tread” a rut on such roads.

A significant limitation of the wide distribution of clay blind areas is their main drawback - with direct, prolonged and strong exposure to water, the clay will still be gradually washed out. Therefore, in most cases, more modern materials are used.

sand prices

Concrete blind areas

This type of blind area is the most common. And this is absolutely not in vain. one of the most common materials and blind areas from it have a set of advantages:

• Properly prepared and laid concrete has high mechanical strength.
• Concrete is not afraid of water and practically does not let it through, and treated with various hydrophobic coatings, it becomes an ideal waterproofing barrier.
• Concrete blind areas have a long service life - at least 25 years, subject to compliance with the technology.
• It is quite possible to make concrete blind areas on your own, for this you do not need the services of special construction equipment.
• Concrete blind areas can be decorated with pebbles, gravel, various natural stones.

Concrete blind areas, however, are not without drawbacks:

• Along with high mechanical strength, concrete blind areas are fragile. If heaving forces of different magnitude occur in different parts of the blind area, cracks may appear. This problem is solved by reinforcement, which makes the blind area significantly more expensive.
• Bare concrete has an unpresentable appearance, a concrete blind area will only spoil a beautiful house in a harmonious natural landscape.
• The concrete blind area is very difficult to dismantle, it is difficult to locally repair, the need for which arises sooner or later.

The thickness of the concrete blind area in its thinnest part should be at least 5 cm, but given that it is constantly under the influence of natural forces, it is better to make it at least 7 cm. Naturally, the concrete blind area is given a slope of 3-10 ° in the direction from walls to its edge. The width must be at least 20-30 cm greater than the overhang of the roof eaves, but in no case less than 60 cm.

cement prices

The blind area should encircle the entire house along the perimeter and not have a rigid connection with the walls. The fact is that with seasonal soil movements, the structures of the house and the blind area will behave differently and the presence of a rigid connection will lead to the appearance of cracks. In addition, different materials have different coefficients of thermal expansion. Therefore, they do what is called expansion or expansion joint , which, on the one hand, provides the necessary seal to prevent water penetration, and on the other hand, allows mutual movement of the house and the blind area. Expansion joints have long been made from tarred boards, but now various synthetic materials can be used. Very often, expansion joints are made of roofing material folded in half or foamed polyethylene. There are also special damper tapes for screeds or underfloor heating, which can also be used for an expansion joint between the blind area and the basement of the house.

In a concrete tape, blind areas also necessarily arrange expansion joints. They are made in the corners, and then every 1.5-2.5 meters. Oiled or tarred edged boards 20 mm thick, strips of laminated plywood or OSB are used as seams. When pouring the blind area, they serve as beacons for its alignment and in the future, after setting, they can be removed and filled with polyurethane-based sealants or left in place.

Asphalt and asphalt concrete pavements

Such blind areas are also quite widespread, but mostly not in residential construction, but in industrial or commercial facilities. Asphalt is more plastic than concrete, the probability of cracking is negligible. Asphalt pavements are less material-intensive, since 3-4 cm is enough to create a durable and water-resistant coating. They are quite durable and can last for decades.

However, asphalt blind areas were widely used only in the construction of non-residential stock. When heated by sunlight, the asphalt can soften and hydrocarbons, which are part of bitumen, which is a binder for this type of coating, begin to evaporate from it. In addition, asphalt laying requires the use of special road equipment.

Paving stones or paving slabs

This type of blind area will be most preferable if the house is planned to fit harmoniously into the surrounding landscape. A cozy and beautiful garden with paving stone paths, finished with natural stone or its imitation, the plinth will be in perfect harmony with paving stones or paving slabs. Natural stone can also be included in the same category, since there are no big differences in terms of technology for preparing the base and laying. Natural stone, however, requires a highly skilled craftsman.

What are the advantages of a blind area made of paving stones or paving slabs?

• As noted earlier, this is an attractive appearance.

• Properly laid high-quality paving stones or paving slabs have a long service life. According to manufacturers - at least 20 years.
• High-quality stone blocks have good frost resistance.
• Coatings made of paving stones or paving slabs made by vibrocompression (namely, these are recommended for blind areas or paths) in wet weather or in the cold season are not as slippery as concrete, asphalt or made from vibroline tiles.

• Each paving stone is laid separately on the base, so cracking is not characteristic of such a coating.
• Coatings made of paving stones or paving slabs are distinguished by their environmental friendliness.
• The paving stone pavement can also serve as a path for people to walk on.
• High strength and wear resistance.
• Pavement pavements can be repaired locally, no complete dismantling is required.
• or paving slabs can be laid independently. This does not require the use of special construction equipment.

The main disadvantage of the pavement pavement is its relatively high cost compared to the concrete "classics". There is a good way out of this situation - if they only walk along the blind area, then it can be paved with paving slabs, which are both thinner and cheaper than paving stones. Platforms and paths that will be subjected to increased loads can already be paved with paving stones in harmony with the blind area. Most manufacturers of vibropressed paving slabs or paving stones offer products of different thicknesses. After laying, it is no longer possible to distinguish where the stones are thicker and where thinner. The device of the blind area from paving stones or paving slabs is shown in the figure.

Prices for paving stones

paving stones

Paving stones or paving slabs also have one important feature that can manifest itself both in good form and in reverse. Such coatings are laid on a sandy base and have gaps between adjacent elements. When water gets on the pavement from the paving stones, most of it will be taken by storm water inlets, taking into account the mandatory slope, flow down the gutters and the surface into the water intake trays of the surface drainage system. But some part will still be able to seep between the paving elements into the underlying layers. Now consider how this feature can manifest itself in good and bad form.

• First about the good. If water seeps through the seams, then such a coating will be dry, puddles will not stagnate on it. Of course, this is very useful for paths where the surface is horizontal, but the blind areas have a slope and most of it will still drain into the water intake trays. But, all the same, a part will fall into the underlying preparation.
• Now about not very good possible manifestations. Let's say the house is built on heavy clay soils and the pavement of paving stones or paving slabs is done correctly. Beneath it is both gravel and sand layers, which can take a certain amount of water. When the snow melts, a situation may arise when the water completely saturates both the sand and the rubble and there will simply be nowhere for it to go, since on the one hand there is a foundation wall with good waterproofing, and on the bottom and side - heavy clay soils. If the thaw is replaced by severe frosts, which often happens in the climatic zones of Russia, then the water in the gravel and sand layer will freeze and expand accordingly. The blind area can collapse in such conditions very quickly. Even after one season of operation.

At the thematic forums devoted to construction, a lot of questions are raised about paving stones and paving slabs in general and blind areas from them in particular. Developers are sometimes simply at a loss because a good and flawlessly laid paving stone pavement begins to swell after the first winter experienced. And this most often happens due to the fact that gravel and sand, when snow melts, are saturated with water, which simply has nowhere to go because of the clay soils around. This problem is solved very simply, but not free:

• The first solution to the problem is drainage. In the case of blind areas, this is a high-quality near-wall deep drainage, as well as surface point and linear. You can read more about drainage in our portal. Preference should be given to drainage with a wall relief geomembrane. Then the water, having got into the gravel and sand, will not linger in them, but will flow down, where it will be “caught up” and removed by the drainage system.
• The second solution to the problem is the insulation of the foundation. This measure will avoid freezing of the soil in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe foundation and the blind area. Materials and technology are described in our portal.

The blind area around the house, in addition to vibrocompressed concrete pavers, can also be made from more expensive natural materials.

• It may be a natural "wild" stone, which owes its name to its irregular shape.

• As the upper layer of the blind area, natural chipped, chipped-sawn or full-sawn granite paving stones are also used. This is a very worthy option, but at a cost it is very immodest.
• The blind area of ​​clinker pavers in combination with the plinth finish with clinker tiles not only looks rich, but also has a very long service life. This option is no less modest than the blind area of ​​granite paving stones.

We will consider in detail how to make a blind area from paving stones or paving slabs in one of the following sections of our article.

Soft blind areas

It may seem that some kind of catch is hidden in the name itself. We are subconsciously accustomed to perceiving blind areas as a rigid and reliable structure, and the word “soft” seems out of place. However, this is far from being the case. Such blind areas have been used for a very long time and successfully. For many decades, soft blind areas have been serving without repair, and in such climatic zones, where they are affected in different seasons by water, snow, severe frosts, and heat.

Some varieties of soft blind areas are also called Finnish, thanks to the country where they are widespread. It is difficult to catch the inhabitants of Finland in stupidity and impracticality, they live in harsher climatic conditions than most regions of Russia, they build a lot of good and comfortable houses. No wonder Finnish builders are considered among the best in the world. It is possible that it also makes sense for us to learn from the Finns some experience.

As noted earlier, the blind area should solve two main problems. The first is to prevent water from entering the foundation structure and the soil near it, and the second is to preserve the integrity of the blind area itself in order to preserve its presentable appearance and solve the first problem. That is, the integrity of the blind area is one of the main tasks and a person is forced to constantly fight for this by reinforcing, creating expansion joints, drainage and other measures. The wise Finns decided to stop the fight and make the blind area soft. One of the options for implementing this approach is shown in the figure.

The main thing in the construction of soft blind areas is a very interesting approach - you don’t have to worry too much about the integrity, solidity and water resistance of the design of the upper decorative layer, but it’s better to focus on how to remove water that has already penetrated through it. That is, “the most interesting”, those elements that have a protective function, in these types of blind area are out of sight. If water penetrates through the upper layer, then it is better not to interfere with it - let it seep to your health and the sooner the better. But then the drainage pipe is already “waiting” for water, which also “with pleasure” accepts it and carries it away from the foundation into the wells.

The permeable layer on which the blind area and the drainage pipe are located are reliably cut off from other soils by some kind of waterproofing material. Roofing material or other materials, for example, PVC films for pools, can act as it.

The best results for waterproofing are the so-called PVP membranes (profiled waterproof polyethylene). They are made of high density polyethylene (HPDE), absolutely inert to all substances that can be found in the soil. According to official documents - test reports, the service life of the PVP membrane declared by the manufacturers is at least 60 years, and in reality it will be even longer if the installation is done correctly. This means that you will not have to do waterproofing again in your entire long and happy life. In principle, the life of a membrane is approximately equal to the average life of a house.

PVP-membranes have on their surface irregularities in the form of truncated cones, 8 mm high. Thanks to these protrusions, water easily collects on the surface and flows down under the influence of gravity. Therefore, the membrane in the soft blind area is always laid at a slope in the direction of the drainage pipe. For laying in the ground, it is better to use a composite geomembrane consisting of two bonded layers. The first layer is the PVP membrane itself, and the second is a geotextile fabric that freely passes water and does not allow the surrounding soil to fill the entire space between the relief ledges.

In soft blind areas, there may be different finishing layers, that is, those that are visible from the outside.

• The blind area can be covered with rubble or gravel, which will give it a natural look. Such blind areas will always be in harmony with the surrounding landscape.
• Colored decorative or gravel is currently widely used. With their help, you can realize the most daring design ideas. Such and blind areas, and other elements of the landscape, look very good.

• The outer layer of a soft blind area can generally be made from fertile soil on which to plant a lawn. It will give the impression that there is no blind area, although we already know that the main thing is underground. Houses made of logs or standing in the middle of emerald green lawns look simply amazing.

Soft blind areas are more and more used in individual housing construction in Russia. And this is quite justified, because their advantages are obvious:

• The soft blind area is not afraid of seasonal ground movements, which have always been, are and will be in any, even an impeccable design. After freezing and thawing, and, accordingly, movements, the blind area returns to its place. Accordingly, there is no need to equip expansion joints.
• It is not necessary to make a soft blind area under a slope, since water is drained under it. This allows them to be used as a pedestrian zone. Even a blind area with a top layer of lawn can be a pedestrian zone if it is well drained and reinforced, for example, with geogrids.

• The soft blind area is easy to repair in case of local damage, and also easy to completely dismantle.
• Soft blind area has an attractive appearance, in harmony with nature. The use of colored decorative crushed stone or gravel allows you to create unique compositions. And also on such a blind area you can plant various plants: lawn grass or various flowers and small shrubs. For this, however, special measures will have to be taken.
• Soft blind area is cheaper than concrete or paving, the process of its creation is less laborious.

The disadvantages of soft blind areas include:

• When constructing a soft blind area, special attention should be paid to the preparation of the base, waterproofing the foundation and the drainage system. If the concrete blind area is guaranteed to “throw” water from the foundation to its width even with a poor drainage system, then soft under the same conditions may not be able to cope with the incoming water.
• The crushed stone or gravel covering of the soft blind area is more difficult to clean from dust and debris than concrete or paving stones.
• Various weeds can grow through the gravel, which will require periodic removal.

• The blind area from the lawn also requires constant care.

In some sources, blind areas made of paving stones or paving slabs are classified as soft, arguing that such structures do not have a rigid base. We intentionally do not do this for two reasons:

• A blind area made of or paving slabs, even by tactile sensations, can hardly be called soft.
• Very often, in order to increase the reliability of the pavement from pavers or paving slabs, it is made on a concrete base, on which a thin (5-7 cm) layer of cement-sand mixture is poured. Clinker tiles or paving stones are laid only on a concrete base using special adhesive mixtures. Such blind areas are simply impossible to call soft.

In order to avoid unnecessary disputes about the belonging of one or another type of construction to soft or hard, we consider in the article blind areas made of paving stones or paving slabs in a separate category. That will be much easier.

Is it necessary to insulate the blind area?

In the recent past, some 20-30 years ago, when building houses in our country, such questions did not arise at all. The foundation could be insulated with expanded clay poured into the sinuses, and the blind area was not separately insulated at all. The foundation was always laid below the freezing level of the soil. And this was one of the few measures to protect the foundation from seasonal soil movements on heaving soils. However, building science and technology did not stand still, new materials appeared along with them. As a result, in the global practice of construction, they came to one conclusion in order to reduce the negative impact of frost heaving forces on the foundation, especially on heaving soils - it must be insulated. In addition, this allows you to reduce the depth of the foundation sole in the ground, which significantly reduces the cost of it. And if the foundation itself is insulated, then the blind area is mandatory too. Only this way and not otherwise! Here are the main reasons why it is necessary to insulate the foundation and the blind area.

• If the house has a heated basement floor, then the insulation of the foundation and the blind area is mandatory. This, firstly, will reduce heat loss, and secondly, it will prevent soil freezing, which will reduce heaving forces. In a properly calculated foundation and its insulation, soil freezing can be avoided.
• If the house has a shallow foundation, then insulation of both the foundation and the blind area is mandatory. The shallow-depth slab foundations of the USHP type (insulated Swedish slab), which are now gaining popularity, are necessarily insulated from all sides, including from below.
• Insulation of the blind area still makes sense so that the melt water that has fallen into the crushed stone and sand layers of the substrate does not freeze when the temperature drops, but calmly goes into the drainage pipes.

Insulation of the blind area does not need to be done only in two cases:

• When a house is built on a pile foundation. But then, in principle, no blind area is needed.
• When the house has a deep, non-insulated foundation and does not have a basement. In this case, the insulation of the blind area is just a senseless burying of insulation in the ground.

Completely different materials are offered as insulation, but in order to save readers from the torment of choice, we offer only the best in terms of price and quality. This is extruded (extrusion) expanded polystyrene - EPS. Why is this material recommended?

• Firstly, EPPS has a low thermal conductivity (0.029-0.032 W / (m * K °), which, in principle, explains its use as a heater.
• Secondly, XPS has high mechanical strength. The compressive strength with a deformation of not more than 10% of it is not less than 0.25-0.5 N / mm². That's enough. On this insulation, the foundations of houses are erected.
• Thirdly, XPS has a low density. One cubic meter of this material has a mass of 38 to 45 kg.
• Fourthly, EPPS has extremely low water absorption (no more than 0.2-0.4%) and vapor permeability (0.013 Mg / (m * h * Pa)), which is very useful when located in the ground.
• Fifth, XPS is very easy to process and install. A minimum set of tools is required.
• Sixth, XPS is durable. Its service life in the ground is at least 30-50 years.
• Seventh, XPS under normal operating conditions does not emit any harmful substances, does not harm either living beings or nature.
• And finally, XPS has a reasonable cost. The presence on the market of a large number of this heater from different manufacturers is in the hands of us - consumers.

The thickness of the blind area insulation is calculated, but in no case should it be less than 5 cm.

As an example, let's take a closer look at the processes of creating three types of blind area: reinforced concrete, pavers and soft.

Do-it-yourself concrete pavement

Consider the process of creating a concrete insulated blind area around the house. At the end of this section, a calculator will be offered that, based on the perimeter of the house, its configuration and the size of the blind area, will help calculate the amount of concrete required for laying.

Let's say right away that the number of options for implementing a concrete blind area using various materials and technologies is endless. It is simply impossible to describe them all, not only within the framework of one article, but even in a multi-volume edition. We will describe one of many, but one that has been implemented on a large number of objects and has been successfully operated for quite a long time to say that such a design justifies itself. For ease of perception, we present the main stages of the process of creating a concrete blind area in the form of a table.

In the future, the blind area can be equipped with a curbstone, a storm sewer can be made along the edges - drainage trays and sand traps can be installed. How to do this is described in detail in an article on this topic on our portal.

Video: Concrete pavement device

Calculator for calculating the required volume of concrete for the blind area

We provide readers of our portal with the opportunity to independently calculate the volume of concrete required for the blind area. The initial data for the calculation are the geometric dimensions of the blind area: its height at the wall, height at the end, width. And also for calculations, you need to know the perimeter of the house: the sum of the lengths of all its sides. This calculator calculates the volume only for houses that have a rectangular configuration, if there are any rounding of the foundation, then this calculator cannot be applied or it will be possible to calculate the volume only on straight sections.

The calculations also take into account the configuration of the house, namely how many external or internal corners it has. If you need to calculate the volume of concrete for any straight section, then you must specify that the number of external and internal corners is zero.