Several budget-friendly ways to lay paving slabs in your summer cottage. Do-it-yourself technology for laying paving slabs How to lay paving slabs

Contrary to popular belief, do-it-yourself styling paving slabs a completely feasible task. This is one of the options for improving the area in the country or next to country house, which can be executed without outside help. In the article we will talk about the technology of laying paving slabs with our own hands, we will analyze detailed step-by-step instructions, and also show diagrams, photos and video materials.

You should carefully calculate the expected dimensions of the site before starting work on its marking. It is best to make the length and width of the paving area multiples, based on the size of the prepared paving slabs, in order to avoid cutting them. The most durable methods for laying paths are made from solid tiles, so you should avoid cutting them. Having finished with the calculations, you need to measure the area to be laid using pegs and a cord stretched between them, as well as a tape measure. Do not forget that you will need to make a small groove around the perimeter for the curb.

After marking the paths, it is advisable to take a walk along the intended route, because then you will need to walk along it many times. If everything is satisfactory, then you can proceed to the next stage of work.

The first stage is the selection and preparation of a site for paving slabs. Of course you need to see if there is necessary tools. You will need:

• pins or stakes (made of metal or wood, it doesn’t matter);
• rubber hammer;
• building level (for adjusting tiles);
• a hose with a divider or a large watering can (if there is no water supply);
• broom;
• rake;
• an even long object (channel, pipe or corner).

After making sure of availability necessary equipment, you can start working.

To do the job well, you need to know how to lay paving slabs correctly. The guide below will help you complete this task.

We use pegs to mark the boundaries of the area where installation is planned. If you plan to fence with sidewalk curbs, you should leave a small margin.

For tiles measuring 25x25 cm, it is logical to make the length and width of the area multiples of a quarter of a meter. If the tile is 30x30 cm, then in multiples of 30 centimeters, and so on. This will eliminate the need to cut the tiles and make the structure more durable.

Leveling the site

During the installation process, the main task for high-quality coating The prepared, level base will serve as paving slabs. It should be leveled over the entire area so that you don’t have to redo anything later.

The turf must be cut from the marked area. This will ensure that the root system is removed, which will to some extent prevent plants from growing in the tile joints. Such work is also useful in that it prepares the base for bedding, thanks to which the surface can be leveled. Now we are trying to achieve level ground on the site. We do this by cutting off hills and pouring soil into depressions and holes.

During this stage, it is also necessary to take care of the presence of a drain for water, for which it is enough to make a slight slope of the base. We carefully treat the formed surface with a rake and compact it.

If the soil is soft, it should be moistened and compacted well to prevent shrinkage in the future.

Subsequent work on preparing the marked area

Having completed work with the relief, you need to fill 2 layers on top, the first of which consists of gravel, and the next of sand.

If the coating will be used to park a car on it, then in the best possible way suitable styling paving slabs on a concrete base.

Each layer must be compacted thoroughly perfect size which range from 3 to 5 cm. In some situations, geotextiles are placed between gravel and sand, which prevents the gravel from mixing with sand, but does not prevent the outflow of moisture.

Preparing the embankment layer

Here, the general case of laying tiles in a country house can be divided into two options. The first is laying paving slabs on a concrete base, the second is the use of materials that allow installation without cement, for example, on sand. Optimal height embankment about 7 cm. On the marking stakes we stretch a fishing line or rope along the selected level.

At the same stage, you will need to determine the water drainage line. Stagnant water can erode the base of the tile.

Installing a border

We install the border in front of the fill. Prepare a small trench for installing the border and pour a 5 cm layer of sand on the bottom. The depth of the trench is selected so that 60% of the height of the stone is under the paving.

The curb must be installed in such a way that it can withstand not only a child’s steps along it, but also a collision with a car.

As already noted, to avoid cutting, paving slabs should be laid along accurate calculations, based on its size. If you can’t do without trimming, use a grinder with a cutting wheel for concrete. How are paving slabs with cut edges laid? Same as solid tiles, but in in this case More attention should be paid to the layout of the drawing.

After determining the level of the base, we fill the area under the paving slabs with sand, compacting it. Then we level the sand along the tensioned levels with a rake, adjusting it to a smooth surface with a pipe (channel, corner). You should have a level area. Now it needs to be moistened with streams of water (without pressure to avoid washing out).

Laying tiles

When laying paving slabs on sand, carefully press them to the base and, if necessary, knock them down rubber mallet. Do not forget about the drawing that you are laying out, since the pattern must go sequentially and in accordance with the intended scheme. When the tiles are laid, it is advisable to walk over them with a vibrating plate for additional compaction. As a result, the surface will be absolutely smooth, each tile will “grow together” with the base, and water will not accumulate on the surface.

To lay tiles on bends and turns, it is necessary to increase the gap between them, and their maximum width should not exceed 0.8 cm. In general, special tiles with rounded edges (“Classic” model) are sold for laying turns and bends. tiles rectangular shape It's better not to use it for this purpose.

All that remains is to fill the finished area of ​​paving stones with sand and scrub it with a hard-bristled brush. At this stage, the work is essentially completed and the new sidewalk can be used.

Sand poured into joints and onto the surface should not contain organic materials and salts that can cause efflorescence.

In addition to a beautiful sidewalk, you can learn great skills that you can easily apply to the foundation of your new paving business.

It is worth mentioning the minimum requirements for basic maintenance of new paths. First of all, paving slabs, like any other coating, require systematic cleaning from dirt and dust. Given this fact, it is better to opt for dark-colored tiles that do not require thorough cleaning. Patterned paths must be washed regularly with a brush and detergent.

Special attention attention should be paid to the cleanliness of the paths in winter time year. It is strictly forbidden to use metal and sharp objects in the process of caring for paving slabs, for example, crushing ice, etc.

Under no circumstances should you sprinkle the paving slabs with salt, as it will corrode not only the ice, but also the top layer. cement layer tiles

If you decide to use special means, then it is better to check it on an inconspicuous area of ​​the tile, since there are many chemicals that can ruin the appearance of the path. It is not advisable to coat paving slabs with paints or varnish to avoid losing the original appearance and aesthetic appearance, especially since they can easily ruin the coating. We sincerely hope that our article will help you in your work.

If option self-installation If you are not satisfied with paving slabs, then you should take a responsible approach to choosing a company!

Schemes

And now you can get acquainted with the schemes for laying paving slabs:

Arrangement local area- this process is very important. And maximum attention should be paid here not only green spaces, but also pedestrian paths, which will not only improve the external aesthetics of the site, but also make it more comfortable in all respects. IN lately as a material for pedestrian paths special tiles are used - the material is reliable and practical, and also quite easy to install.

Choosing paving slabs

Paving slabs are distinguished by high quality characteristics- she is much stronger than concrete, and under intensive use and heavy loads, unlike other materials, it does not crumble and does not lose its attractiveness.

Laying tiles is not a quick process, but it is simple enough to do without the involvement of specialists. It is enough to purchase a sufficient amount of paving slabs in advance, prepare the necessary tools and consumables, and you can start arranging the yard area. If you do not have experience in construction and do not know how to lay paving slabs, a video on the Internet will help you understand the details in more detail.

If you are interested in how to properly lay paving slabs with your own hands, then first you need to find out how to choose tiles so that the end result does not disappoint you. On modern market There is a huge variety of paving slab samples, varying in:

• size
• volume
• pattern
• quality characteristics

Before purchasing material, you must carefully measure the area of ​​the sidewalk and calculate the number of tiles based on its size. The most difficult thing to buy is tiles with figured elements or complex patterns. Here you need to not only calculate its quantity, but also approximately determine its consumption, taking into account undercuts. Since its design will need to be combined, quite a lot of scrap will be generated in the process, which can also be used in the future.

When calculating the number of paving slabs, you need to take into account the laying method. For example, with the diagonal technique, material consumption increases significantly. Therefore, it is much easier and more profitable to install the sidewalk in the traditional way.

When choosing paving slabs, the main criterion is its strength, determined by its thickness. For example, for a walkway, tiles with a thickness of forty millimeters are quite suitable. And if you plan to pave a path to the garage along which passenger vehicles will travel, then it is better to choose tiles at least five centimeters thick.

What is required to install tiles?

Before you study the instructions on how to properly lay paving slabs, you need to prepare the tools that you will definitely need in the process. The list is quite long:

• building level(you can use modern laser models that allow you to make markings as evenly as possible)
• rubber hammer- necessary for adjusting the tiles to each other during the laying process
• wooden pegs(spacers) and nylon thread - markings are made with their help
• trowel- needed to level the sand layer
• rammer- necessary for compacting layers
• sand and small stone- from them you will need to make a mixture that serves as a “pillow”
• angle grinder- tool for adjusting the size of paving slabs

Also, do not forget to prepare the paving slabs and curbs themselves - with its help you can design the path better.

How to lay paving slabs evenly?

When all the necessary tools and consumables are ready, you can begin installation sidewalk path. But, even if you have an idea about the procedure itself, still watch at least one video on the Internet about how to lay paving slabs - the video will become your own best assistant. By the way, about how to lay paving slabs correctly, there are a lot of literary sources and visual aids that you can also use.

So, laying paving slabs with your own hands begins with preliminary preparation territories. Professional craftsmen usually draw up a plan of the territory, measure all the dimensions, transfer them to paper and only after that start working.

• nylon thread
• pegs
• hammer

With their help, you will need to mark the boundaries of the area where you plan to lay paving slabs. Within the designated boundaries, you need to carefully remove the turf to a depth of approximately twenty centimeters, and then remove the soil. Be careful to ensure that no debris or grass remains remain in the prepared area.

After the soil has been evenly removed, it is necessary to make a cushion of small stone, which is filled in, leveled and thoroughly compacted. Then you need to start laying the next layer of sand or sand-cement mixture. Sand is laid up to forty centimeters thick. If you lay a sand-cement mixture, a layer of twenty or thirty centimeters will be enough. Sand is mixed with cement in proportions 3:1. To make the layer dense, you can slightly moisten the mixture of sand and cement with water. If you want paving slabs to last maximum term operation, you need to take care that plants do not sprout from the soil. This can be done using a layer of geotextile, which is laid between the paving slabs themselves and a cushion of sand and cement.

We mark the site

If you are interested in how to lay paving slabs correctly, you should know that laying paving slabs must be done strictly according to the markings. To do this, you need to measure the level of slope of the area where the path will be built. It is better to do this in the direction from the house to the street.

Drive two pegs along the line and stretch a nylon thread between them. Make sure the thread lies evenly in horizontal plane. This can be done using a level. Next, tie the free end of the thread to the third peg and pull it perpendicular to the first. The third peg needs to be driven in higher than the first two. Then the fourth peg is driven in, the thread is pulled, resulting in a rectangle - this is the area for laying paving slabs with your own hands.

Laying paving slabs

After preparatory work are completed, you can begin the actual laying of paving slabs. There are several ways to lay tiles with your own hands, for example:

• traditional
• diagonal
• combined

If you are not a professional, then it is better to use the traditional one. First, prepare a solution - mix six parts sand with one part cement. It is important that the sand is sufficiently wet. If the sand is dry, moisten it a little and lay the mixture on the prepared area for laying paving slabs.

Compact the layer thoroughly. Place two pipes on the sides - at this stage they will act as limiters. To make sure that the layer is absolutely even, take a fishing line or thread, pull it over the pipes and move it a little to the side - this way you will see where you need to remove a little, and where, on the contrary, you need to add.

How to lay paving slabs correctly with your own hands: tile inspection and installation

Before laying tiles with your own hands, you should carefully inspect the material itself. Take the tiles and carefully check that they do not have cracks, chips or other defects that could negatively affect the final result and quality of use of the paving path.

Laying tiles correctly is not difficult. Simply lay them on the prepared base with minimal clearance. Use a rubber mallet to push the tiles closer together. Do not forget that paving slabs, although durable, are susceptible to defects, so tapping with a rubber hammer should be light.

If tiles need to be trimmed, use an angle grinder. To do this you need:

• make a mark
• cut tiles
• lay the tiles flush with the rest

Periodically check the level of the masonry - the tiles should be level and in one line.

After you have laid all the tiles yourself, you need to sprinkle the paths with fine gravel and rub them thoroughly using a stiff broom or brush. Then you can start grouting the joints. To do this, it is better to use special grouts that are sold in stores. At this point, the process of installing the paving tiles can be considered complete. The only thing you will need to do next is install the curb.

Installation of curb slabs

It has already become clear how to lay paving slabs correctly. Now you need to figure out how to install the border. Here you should pay attention to the fact that the curb can be laid flush with the paving slabs, or raised slightly.

The main task of the curb is not the aesthetic appeal of the path, as many people think, but to prevent the tiles from spreading on soft ground. To install them, you need to dig special trenches, the width of which will be slightly larger than the size of the curb itself. Next, you need to lay a sand cushion in the trenches. A layer of five centimeters will be enough. The sand is carefully compacted and a slab is installed on top, which must be leveled and secured.

Many owners of country houses prefer to pave paths in their local area using paving slabs. As a result, they receive not only a practical and durable coating, but also a real decoration for their site. Correct styling paving slabs are a guarantee that the coating will cope with the tasks assigned to it. The opinion that hired craftsmen who know the installation features well will do the job better than the owner himself is sometimes erroneous. If you understand the technology of laying tiles, then it is not difficult to cope with the work yourself.

Scope of paving slabs

Paving slabs are used for lining pedestrian and park paths, platforms and sidewalks. It can also be used to strengthen lawns, slopes and lining flower beds.

Mechanical properties of the material

Stages of planning, design and site marking

Laying paving slabs with your own hands begins with choosing the material and planning the site.

Site layout

When planning the local area, you should not go to two extremes - do without paving at all or do continuous coating throughout the entire territory. The best option– paths from the gate to the house and to the main buildings on the site and a platform for a car. This way you can avoid mud during rainy weather and at the same time preserve your lawns and perennials.

Looking ahead a little, technically, first of all it is necessary to use “beacons” to mark the area planned for installation. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the angles of the territory and observe both transverse and longitudinal slopes.

Important! The slopes must be determined before the preparatory work begins.

Selection of coating material

Now you need to decide on the choice of covering for the paths. Paving stones are considered the best option because the cost of laying paving slabs is quite reasonable, moreover, the work is not difficult to do yourself. The following advantages also speak in favor of this option:

1. the ability to replace individual elements and dismantle the coating;
2. the tiles are frost-resistant and do not float in the heat like asphalt;
3. unpretentious in care;
4. moisture easily seeps into the seams between the elements.

It is important to decide on the type of paving stones. Thus, factory vibro-pressed and vibro-cast elements are available for sale. Decide on the thickness, color and shape of the products. But if you want to save a little and have the free time and desire, then you can make the tiles yourself.

There are several types on sale tile covering. Each of them differs in its characteristics, scope of use and requirements for the foundation:

1. Vibrocast products up to 4 cm thick Suitable for blind areas and pedestrian paths. The price of such elements is the lowest. Moreover, some owners make such tiles themselves.
2. Vibrocast elements up to 6 cm thick Suitable for paving driveways and parking areas. The price of such tiles is average; if desired, you can make them yourself. A base of cement and sand is prepared for installation.
3. Vibropressed tiles the most durable. Its thickness is 6-8 cm. It is used in places with heavy traffic and loads, and is manufactured only at the factory. Paving slabs are laid on a concrete base and sand cushion.

Important! The type of soil on the site affects the choice of base for paving. On moving soils, a concrete base is installed even for blind areas and sidewalks. In dense soils, a cement-sand base is made under the driveways.

Despite the fact that the technology for laying paving slabs is quite simple, pay attention to the following recommendations:

• When laying the coating on a concrete base, be sure to arrange a slope for rainwater runoff. You can use a longitudinal, transverse or transverse-longitudinal slope of the coating. Optimal slope– 1 cm per meter. As a result, water will not collect between the tiles and the concrete base, which will protect the coating from swelling. In this case, a gap for water drainage is made between the tile covering and the curb.
• The width of the track is selected as a multiple of the dimensions of one covering element. Do not think that large-sized products are installed faster. Due to their significant weight, they are more difficult to lift, move and level on the base.
• All underground communications on the site are laid until the construction of paths and driveways. Otherwise, the coating will have to be dismantled. If some communications are planned to be carried out in the future, then at the place where they are carried out, they are laid under the path plastic pipes(the cross-section is chosen based on the size of communications).
• To between separate elements the covering will not allow grass to grow in the future; a layer of geotextile is laid before the foundation is constructed.
• Laying the tile covering is carried out only on a dry base, so work is not carried out during or after rain.
• The base for the tiles is carefully leveled. To arrange the pillow, purified sand without impurities and clay is used.
• The size of the track is selected taking into account the selected covering elements. If you plan to make a pattern or ornament, then it is worth drawing a diagram in advance and calculating the width of the coating, taking into account the seams. The circular method of laying products will require cutting some elements to the required size.

At the preparation stage, it is worth considering the coating pattern. The sketch will allow you to get an idea of ​​the future creation and calculate the required number of elements of a particular color and configuration. If paving slabs are laid by a master, the price, of course, for paving with a pattern or ornament will be higher.

Advice! The most options for patterned layouts are obtained when using rectangular paving stones.

Tile layout options

Design of paving stones

From traditional design solutions, three main layout options can be distinguished:

1. Geometric, this is the application simple shapes in design, such as line, square, circle and monotonous repeating elements. Similar solutions are presented in layout diagrams.
2. Chaotic layout - elements are laid out in discord, so that it is impossible to trace any patterns. But sometimes they adhere to one rule so that adjacent elements are not repeated, or there are no more than two repetitions.
3. Artistic laying of paving slabs is perhaps the most interesting and expensive option in classic solutions. As a rule, such decisions are of an author’s nature, take into account the peculiarities of the location of objects on the site, emphasize them or, on the contrary, draw attention. In this segment there are both standard solutions, and exclusive design solutions. The latter option may require custom-made paving slabs according to custom sizes and flowers.

And there is another option for modern design, this is imitation of the 3D effect, creating the illusion of volume or violating the laws of geometry. This optical illusion effect is achieved by using the features of our vision and as a result we observe a stereoscopic, three-dimensional image.

And the latest fashion is luminous paving slabs

GOST, SNiP and TU for laying paving slabs

Before starting work, you must study and subsequently follow the following: regulatory documents, they can also be downloaded for review:

• GOST 17608-91, from March 1, 2018, a new document GOST 17608-2017 was released;
• SNiP III-8-76
• SNiP III-10-75 (no longer valid, but we recommend that you read it);
• Instructions VSN-1-94 / VSN-26-76;

Preparatory work and necessary tools

Before starting work, prepare the required materials and tools. To work you will need:

• curbs;
• tile;
• sand;
• cement;
• water.

Also stock up the following tools (an exhaustive list is presented, you need to select the ones you need based on your situation):

• tamper, vibrating plate with pad or hand roller;
• bayonet and shovel shovels;
• paving cutter;
• grinder with diamond discs;
• sieve;
• wheelbarrow;
• stretcher;
• level;
• broom;
• trowel;
• rule for leveling sand embankment;
• rubber mallet;
• pegs;
• guides;
• nylon thread or leveling cord;
• water supply hose.

Advice! If you have to cut the tiles, you will need a grinder with a diamond wheel or for cutting on concrete.

Site marking

According to the outlines of the future path, we drive in “beacon” pegs and stretch the nylon cord. Since the tensioned thread is a guideline for determining the height of the paving, we carry out the tension according to the level.

Preparing the base

The base can be made of:

• sand;
• crushed stone and concrete.

The type of foundation is selected based on the purpose of the future path or site.

The foundation preparation process consists of several stages:

• remove the top layer of turf and soil, remove plant roots and compact the bottom well;
• If necessary, we level the bed with gravel or crushed stone;

Important! If excavation is not carried out, the path will be higher than the level of the lawn. This is not very good, since the coating will be washed away by melt and rain water.

• we fill the bed with a drainage layer 15-20 cm high - for pedestrian paths and 40 cm - for driveways (gravel or crushed stone is used for drainage);
• A layer of sand 2 cm high is poured on top of the crushed stone to level the base.

To prevent erosion of the base cushion groundwater, geotextiles are laid under the drainage layer.

This completes the foundation preparation work. Let's start laying street tiles and borders. Step by step instructions on laying paving slabs with your own hands will help you do the job no worse than professional craftsmen:

Technology for laying paving slabs

Drainage and slope installation

These measures are carried out to ensure that water does not accumulate on the surface. Slopes should not be directed towards the foundations of nearby buildings. Most of the rainwater is removed through slopes and the rest goes into the ground through tile joints. Therefore, it is recommended to use gravel or crushed stone as the main load-bearing drainage layer.

Formation of the carrier layer

Depending on the purpose of the future coating, the base is formed either from sand, if the surface will be used as a pedestrian area with low traffic, or from concrete for areas with high traffic and problem soils.

Important points:

• The height of the layer is determined depending on the expected load on the coating. Those. the higher the permeability, the higher the layer should be and, accordingly, more materials will be spent. In case of significant loads, the base is laid in stages in several layers.
• The load-bearing layer must be laid evenly, but taking into account natural or planned slopes.
• Each laid layer in mandatory compacted using a tamper, vibrating plate or hand roller.

Installation of curbs

There are options for laying paving with and without curbs. But when using curb stone The path is clearly marked and protected from creep. The border is laid after leveling the base on a concrete lock. Plastic tile borders are also permitted. The product is mounted flush with the paving surface or slightly above it. Since the tiles will shrink, it is recommended to lay the paving stones 5 mm above the curb.

Construction of sand or cement-sand layers

If crushed stone or sand is used as a supporting layer, then in the case of sand, an additional layer of sand is a continuation of the base. In the case of crushed stone, this layer is a dry mixture of cement and sand. However, the following rules should be followed:

• it is necessary to set all guide rails in advance, taking into account all slopes and firmly fix them;
• the underlying layer is leveled using the rule so that it is approximately 10 mm above the level of the tiles being laid. This is necessary so that the tile remains at the planned level after leveling the surface of the coating and subsequent subsidence of the sand or cement-sand mixture;
• to receive flat surface, the leveling slats must be removed and the remaining depressions must be filled with sand or dry mixture.

Do not under any circumstances try to lay tiles by eye; do not be lazy and stretch a nylon cord around the entire perimeter of the surface to be laid. This will allow you to monitor the correct geometry of the laid material, tile joints and slopes. It is recommended to check the geometry of the seams every 2-3 rows.

Laying should start from the lowest point and move towards the highest. Or from some important element, for example, the entrance to a house.

Leveling the tiles is allowed using a mallet or vibrating plate if the tiles are higher required level. You can also add dry mixture or sand if it is lower. Based on GOST and SNiP, the surface is considered flat if for every 2 meters the height difference is no more than 5-10 mm.

To form the finish, the tiles are sawed using a grinder with diamond blade.

1. Preparing the base for laying paving. There are three types of bases:
   • sand is poured between the curbs to a height of 5-6 cm, then the sand layer is moistened and compacted, the tiles are laid on wet sand;
   • the paving is laid on a cement-sand base, to arrange it, a layer of sand 3 cm high is poured between the curbs, then a reinforcing mesh is laid and covered with a mixture of cement and sand in a ratio of 4 to 1;
   • masonry on a concrete base, in this case the cake consists of the following layers: sand on compacted soil (10 cm), gravel (10 cm), reinforcement mesh, road mesh, concrete (12 cm), cement-sand composition (2 cm).
2. Paving with paving slabs is carried out in compliance with the following rules:
   • work is carried out from the lower point of the coating;
   • the master is located on the already laid tiles so as not to damage the prepared base;
   • when laying in a circle, work is carried out from its center;
   • elements are laid out not in rows, but in a diagonal direction, which facilitates horizontal alignment;
   • the cord for leveling the first row is pulled across the width of the track;
   • the horizontal is checked with a level after 3 rows;
   • the tiles are installed by tapping with a mallet;
   • if necessary, add sand or a sand mixture under the element;
   • a gap of 3 mm is made between adjacent elements (usually crosses are used if the tiles do not have a remote lock).

1. Grouting of joints takes place in two stages. First, pour sand onto the paving and sweep it along the seams with a broom. After this, the seams are sprinkled with a cement-sand mixture (proportion 1 to 1). Available for sale ready-made mixtures for seams. Then the path is generously sprayed with water.

Step-by-step technology for laying paving slabs on sand

	Landscape assessment and marking. The site for laying paving slabs must have the necessary slope for the outflow of rain and melt water. The outflow of water, as a rule, is done towards the street. Laying of paving slabs will be carried out from the street line, this is the zero line - the lowest section of the site. Pegs are driven in along the perimeter of the future site, the lowest of which are located closer to the street and the highest - in the far part of the site. A leveling cord is stretched along the perimeter between the pegs at a height equal to the thickness of two paving slabs. The slope of the cord between the highest and lowest point of the platform should be at least 0.5-1 cm per meter, or 2 degrees. Use a level to measure.
	Preparing the bed. Remove the top layer of soil and remove plant roots over the entire area of ​​the future sidewalk path or site. Remove excess soil from the protruding areas and add those areas where there are holes, and carefully compact the bottom. Pay special attention to areas with loose soil.
	Backfilling with sand. Pour sand into the prepared bed in a layer of 5-15 cm and carefully level its surface with a rake or rule. Keep an eye on the level and follow the leveling cord.
	Moisturizing the base. WITH minimum consumption 10 l per square meter Water the entire base generously with a hose or watering can.
	Compacting the base. To avoid subsidence of the base during further use of the sidewalk, carefully compact the sandy base using a hand tamper.
	Laying tiles. The first row of tiles is laid starting from the zero line. Next, the rows are laid diagonally. The master moves forward, kneeling on the already laid tiles, so as not to damage the even base. When laying in a circle, the movement begins from the center of the circle. The gaps between the tiles should be 0.5-0.7 cm. Check every third row of laid tiles using a level, not forgetting the required slope. Using a heavy rubber mallet, drive the protruding tiles to the required depth. Under those tiles that are below the planned level, sprinkle a few stones and a little extra sand.
	Filling gaps. Fill the gaps between the tiles with dry mixture or sifted sand. To do this, pour sand onto the sidewalk and use a brush to move it over the entire surface. Remove excess sand or dry mixture with a weak stream of water. Make sure that sand does not wash out of the cracks between the tiles.
	Surface cleaning. Remove dirt and any remaining mixture from the surface of the pavement using a brush.

Step-by-step technology for laying on crushed stone with a dry mixture

Laying on a crushed stone base with a dry mix is ​​recommended for areas with moderate traffic and light vehicle parking areas.

	Landscape assessment and marking. Laying of paving slabs is carried out from the street line, this is the zero line - the lowest section of the site. Pegs are driven in along the perimeter of the future site, the lowest of which are located closer to the street and the highest - in the far part of the site. A leveling cord is stretched along the perimeter between the pegs at a height equal to the thickness of two paving slabs. The slope of the cord between the highest and lowest point of the platform should be at least 0.5-1 cm per meter, or 2 degrees. Uses a level to measure. Venues large size divided into strips using pegs and leveling cords.
	Preparing the bed. Remove the top layer of soil over the entire area of ​​the future sidewalk. Remove plant roots to prevent future regrowth. Remove excess soil from the protruding areas and add those areas where there are holes, and carefully compact the bottom. Pay special attention to areas with loose soil.
	Backfilling of crushed stone. Fill the prepared bed with crushed stone in a layer of 10-20 cm, carefully level the surface. Keep an eye on the level and follow the leveling cord.
	Compacting crushed stone manually.
	. Dig trenches along the edges of the base to the required depth. Plant curbs on the M100 solution, and then pour concrete over them and fill them with sand.
	Backfilling the cement-sand mixture. Place a mixture of cement and sand on top of the crushed stone in a layer of 5-10 cm. If necessary, install reinforcing mesh. Carefully level the cement-sand mixture.
	Laying tiles. The first row of tiles is laid starting from the zero line. Next, the rows are laid diagonally. The master moves forward, kneeling on the already laid tiles, so as not to damage the even base. The gaps between the tiles should be 0.5-0.7 cm. Check every third row of laid tiles using a level, not forgetting the required slope. Using a heavy rubber mallet, drive the protruding tiles to the required depth. Sprinkle a few stones and dry mixture under those tiles that are below the planned level.
	Wetting the pavement and filling cracks. Abundantly, a large number spill water on the sidewalk surface. After the surface of the path has completely dried, fill all the cracks between the tiles with a dry mixture. Water the path one more time, making sure that the filler does not wash out from the gaps between the tiles.
	Surface cleaning. Remove excess mortar from the pavement surface to prevent it from hardening. Make sure that all joints are completely filled with the mixture and that the sidewalk is clear of mortar. The coating is ready for use.

Step-by-step laying of paving slabs on a concrete base

	Landscape assessment and marking. For proper drainage of rain and melt water, paving slabs are laid from the zero line - the lowest section of the site according to the plan. Pegs are driven in along the perimeter of the future site, the lowest of which are located closer to the street and the highest - in the far part of the site. A leveling cord is stretched along the perimeter between the pegs at a height equal to the thickness of two paving slabs. The slope of the cord between the highest and lowest point of the platform should be at least 0.5-1 cm per meter, or 2 degrees. Uses a level to measure. Large areas are divided into strips using pegs and leveling cords.
	Preparing the bed. Remove the top layer of soil over the entire area of ​​the sidewalk being constructed. Remove plant roots to prevent future regrowth. Remove excess soil from the protruding areas and add those areas where there are holes, and carefully compact the bottom. Pay special attention to areas with loose soil.
	Backfilling of crushed stone. Fill the prepared bed with crushed stone in a layer of 10-15 cm, carefully level the surface. Keep an eye on the level and follow the leveling cord.
	Compacting crushed stone.
	Installation of formwork. Place formwork boards more than 4 cm thick along the edges of the future site or sidewalk. Secure the boards with stakes driven in at a distance of 60-100 cm from each other.
	Pouring concrete. Concrete is poured in a layer of 5-15 cm. To improve the strength characteristics, reinforcement is made with road mesh. To do this, concrete is first laid in a layer of 3 cm, a reinforcing mesh is placed on it, then concrete is poured to the required height. To avoid the appearance of cracks in the concrete base in winter or when laying a large area, it is necessary to leave so-called expansion joints of 0.5 cm every 3 meters.
	Leveling the concrete surface. Carefully level the concrete surface, taking into account the level of the base and the required slope.
	. Dig trenches along the edges of the base to the required depth. Plant curbs on the M100 solution, and then pour concrete over them and fill them with sand.
	Laying tiles. Moisten the concrete surface and lay the tiles on a layer of 1-3 cm of cement-sand screed.
	Filling expansion joints. To protect against cracking, seal expansion joints with elastic filler.
	Filling gaps between tiles. Carefully fill the gaps between the tiles with grout or mortar, making sure that the mortar does not get on the front side of the stones. Immediately remove excess grout from the tile surface. The coating will be ready for use in 48 hours.

Installation cost and work price per m2

The prices for laying paving slabs are shown in the table below; these are the weighted average prices for the market. The table shows work for both m2 and linear meter in rubles at the rate of 60 rubles. for $. Depending on the type of work. As well as the cost of related and additional work.

Extremely simple technology laying paving slabs in the courtyard of a private house allows the work to be completed by an individual developer without the involvement of specialists. It is enough to organize the slopes of the pavement, install a storm drain, choose a rational layout scheme and the material to be used for paving, depending on the operational loads.

Before you start decorating your yard with FEM shaped paving elements, you need to learn how to properly plan the topography of the site and reduce the budget for landscaping the area. FEM are budget option finishes compared to asphalt concrete pavement, allow you to level out unevenness by terracing and making slopes of 4 - 7 degrees, necessary for gravity removal of rain and melt runoff.

To lay paving slabs evenly and ensure maximum coverage life, the following operating nuances should be taken into account:

Important! Storm drainage (point or linear) is necessary in any case, since FEMs are made of concrete, rubber or polymer concrete, and all these materials retain moisture on the surface.

Paving the yard with paving slabs

Laying tiles in the yard should take into account the technology features:

Advice! It is better to calculate the number of paving slabs after marking the yard, taking into account the layout scheme, the presence of curved sections and retaining walls for terracing the area.

Yard marking

At this stage it is necessary to beat off a single horizontal level yard, create slopes and outline the paving area with cords. To lay paving slabs on granular mixtures, you need a rigid base, preferably from soils with a minimum clay content. In practice, the developer faces the following problems:

The latter option automatically adds steps to transition between terraces. It is better to make them from FEM elements in order to maintain the unity of the landscape design style.

Therefore, marking the yard is necessary to delineate the paving area from the surface of which it will be removed fertile layer and replaced with non-metallic material. To do this, pegs or cast-offs are used, the cord is pulled along the outer edge of the curbs or storm drainage trays.

Base requirements

If there is clay in the soil, it will swell in winter and destroy the coating. On a fresh embankment, on the contrary, the soil will subside over time. Therefore, in the first case, part of the soil (upper 40 cm) is replaced inert material, in which there is no clay and swelling is minimized.

In the second option, the black soil is also removed, but to a depth of 0.6 m, a 15-20 cm layer of crushed stone is poured and a 10 cm footing is cast over the entire yard surface. Figured paving elements are laid on a layer of sand with a minimum thickness of 15 cm or paving (1/6 cement, sand, respectively) with a thickness of 10 cm minimum. All layers are necessarily compacted with a vibrating plate.

Preparing the mixture

Putting road surface You can use a solution, a dry mixture, or clean sand. The first option is expensive, the coating has zero repairability and is extremely sensitive to movements of the base. Gartsovka does not provide any special advantages in comparison with pure sand, since for normal formation cement stone What is needed is at least a minimum water-cement ratio, and not moisture accidentally penetrating into the lower level.

Preparation of prancing from cement and sand.

Curbs and storm drains

The resource and quality of paving directly depend on the technology for installing storm drains and garden borders. These elements are higher than paving slabs; for them, trenches will have to be deepened along the perimeter of the paving area. When laying them on the base, you should follow the following technology:

The laid curb is covered from the outside with soil, from the inside with non-metallic material (sand or crushed stone) at the same level with the surface of the underlying layer. Storm drainage trays and storm water inlets are installed at the lowest points of the paving area. To reduce the landscaping budget, storm drainage trays can replace curbs on one side of the yard.

Laying solid tiles

The paving stones are laid on the manufactured base using the following technology:

Rice. 8 Alignment of the prancing rule

• paving – according to the selected pattern and layout of the shaped paving elements, paving slabs are mounted on leveled bulk material close to each other.

The rule is made from flat, dry edged boards, in the lower part on both sides of which rectangular cuts are created with a hacksaw. Unlike tiles laid with glue, paving stones can be walked on immediately, so the work more convenient weight in front of you. This makes it possible to level the entire paving surface along the beacons and lay the FEM elements in one go, which dramatically increases productivity.

Tool-free laying of paving stones on leveled and compacted sand

Advice! At quality leveling along the beacons of prancing or sand, the paving slabs do not even need to be upset with a rubber mallet. After filling the seams, the entire surface of the FEM is leveled and compacted with a vibrating plate, eliminating home handyman from manual labor.

Trimming and filling seams

It is possible to avoid cutting figured paving elements only in areas of correct geometric shape, and even then, not for all FEM collections. Trimming of paving slabs is necessary at junction points:

• at curbs, foundations, plinths;
• near rainwater inlets and at intersections;
• on radial, winding sections.

The FEM is cut using a diamond disc or an angle grinder using stone tools. Unlike some curbs, paving slabs do not have reinforcement and are quite easy to cut.

For some modifications of FEM, manufacturers produce halves, which allows you to do without trimming.

On last stage laid facing material must be additionally protected from displacement during operation. To do this, the seams should be filled with quartz or washed quarry sand. Particles of these materials have a torn edge, so they self-weed inside the seams under their own weight, are not washed out by rain and are not blown away by the wind.

Backfilling of joints with FEM.

Sand is poured in heaps over the paving area before compacting the lining with a vibrating plate, and swept with a brush over the entire surface of the yard. Bulk material penetrates into the seams on its own; after treating the surface with a vibrating plate, the remaining bulk material is swept away.

Interface with blind area

If you plan to pave the entire courtyard area with paving slabs, then the blind area is also decorated with this material by default. Therefore, it is necessary to take into account the nuances:

• the width of the blind area should be 15–20 cm greater than the projection of the roof onto the ground;
• the slope of the blind area should be from the walls outwards within 4 - 7 degrees;
• the topography of the courtyard area, in turn, may have a slope towards the cottage.

Therefore, a linear storm drain from surface trays should be installed along the perimeter of the blind area. Or provide drainage from a waterproof surface concrete covering into point rainwater inlets installed at the lower points of the yard, and arrange the slopes of the paving stones in their direction.

Unit for connecting the blind area and paving of the yard with storm drainage elements.

Important! At the stage of manufacturing the underlying layer, drainage pipes are laid from storm water inlets towards the underground reservoir to receive and accumulate wastewater.

Thus, paving the yard with paving slabs on our own does not pose any difficulties for an individual developer, even on uneven terrain. It is necessary to take into account the composition of the soil and its bearing capacity depending on the operational loads on this decorative coating.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for selecting them. Just submit in the form below detailed description work that needs to be done and you will receive offers with prices from construction teams and companies by email. You can see reviews about each of them and photographs with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.

The technology of laying decorative paving slabs on sand with your own hands has a number of nuances, knowing which you can do all the work easily and without serious mistakes. Thanks to this material, you can create a unique coating in a parking lot, sidewalk or garden. Let's figure out what this technology is.

Most often, paving slabs are laid on a dry cement-sand mixture

Types of paving slabs

Before considering the technology of laying tiles with your own hands, you need to find out what types of material are used for finishing sidewalks and areas. Today there are a huge number of product variations available, first of all, they differ in shape, the most popular are:

• paving stones;
• clover;
• scales;
• fleece;
• wave;
• honeycomb;
• flower;
• Gzhelka.

Main types of paving slabs

Production technology also affects the final result. According to the manufacturing method, tiles can be divided into two types:

• Vibropressed. The machine feeds the mass into the mold, then compresses it and vibrates under pressure, after which the matrix is ​​removed and the tile is left to dry.
• Vibrocast. The liquid solution is poured into the mold, vibrated for a certain time and dried.

You can use both approaches yourself. At the same time, if you make the solution yourself, it is important to maintain the proportions and use suitable raw materials.