Such modern material like foam block and aerated concrete, it is lightweight and durable, which is why it is becoming increasingly popular for erecting a bathhouse. It is easy and convenient to build a bathhouse from it, the cost will suit any pocket, and all its disadvantages offset its advantages. A bathhouse made of foam blocks or aerated concrete bathhouse will be warm and durable. And such disadvantages as shrinkage, instability to moisture and not very impressive appearance will help fix it correct plaster for walls. The main goal of such work is to create a vapor-proof layer on the walls; the quality of such a layer will depend on the ratio of the ball of plaster from the inside to the outside. The main point of such work is to allow steam to pass freely through the plaster, concrete walls and go outside, so the walls of the bathhouse will breathe. If there is no such effect, then after several processes of freezing and thawing, the walls of the bathhouse may crack, and the plaster may begin to fall off in parts. So our topic: plastering walls made of foam blocks and gas blocks, selection of materials.

The feasibility of plastering aerated concrete and foam concrete.

Initially building materials made from cellular concrete, were used only for insulating constructed buildings, since such elements can be cut and made into parts of the desired shape, they are light and warm.

After some time, the masters came to the idea that such blocks can be used not only for interior walls, but also for the entire structure. But they had to come up with ways to plaster such walls, because the surface of the blocks is very smooth, and simple plaster and putty solutions will not stick to it. And since a bathhouse made of aerated concrete or foam concrete will not last long without an additional layer, it is worth learning in more detail about how to properly plaster walls and what composition to choose.

The feasibility of plastering aerated concrete and foam concrete walls:

• A layer of plaster will protect the walls from the influence of sudden temperature changes.
• The thermal insulation performance of the steam room will become better.
• A layer of plaster will help the walls breathe.
• The plaster will protect the bathhouse from dampness, wind, snow and rain.
• A layer of plaster will prevent the walls from becoming saturated with dust and carbon dioxide what is main reason bath shrinkage.

Plastering walls made of aerated concrete - nuances of technology.

The most common type of blocks is Reftinsky, since they have a rough surface, a layer of plaster adheres to them better. Aerated concrete blocks They are similar in structure to foam concrete, which means that the same problems will arise with their finishing. They differ only in manufacturing technology, which improves their coupling performance.

To plaster them, you can choose gypsum-based mixtures. You will also need primer for foam blocks and plaster mesh, but it must be resistant to alkali. The video presented above will demonstrate in detail the process of plastering aerated concrete walls.

Bathhouse made of foam blocks - features of plastering walls.

A bathhouse made of foam blocks must be plastered. But the technology is different: the blocks must first be cleaned and sanded, so that all top layer was removed. To improve the adhesion of plaster and foam blocks, we recommend attaching them to the walls reinforced mesh. Since foam concrete blocks They do not absorb moisture well, before applying the main ball of plaster, you need to spray a thin layer of solution on them, this will also improve adhesion.

Before you start applying plaster, you need to thoroughly prime everything, trying to fill all the pores and cracks, this will protect the walls from fungi and mold.

To get good effect vapor permeability, the foam block walls could breathe, and the heat in the bath was retained, you need to use main secret all master plasterers: the layer of plaster on the outside should be twice as thin as the layer on the inside.

We select the best options for mixtures for plaster.

The following ready-made mixtures are suitable for plastering a foam block bath:

• “Sh-36 Decor” is a ready-made dry cement mix, which contains reinforcing fibers.
• “PROFIT Contact MN” is a mixture for plaster, suitable for application using a machine; it is made on the basis of cement and sand with various additives.
• “Dali” is a mixture for plaster that can be used for both foam blocks and gas blocks.
• “Ceresit CT24” - this mixture contains a special bonding agent; it is used both for plastering and for leveling the surface.
• “Mask mix” – ready mix in dry form, it is made of cement and quartzite with the addition of polymer particles.
• “Atlas KB-TYNK” is considered the lightest mixture for plaster.

Since bathhouse walls made of foam blocks and bathhouses made of gas blocks are characterized by poor adhesion properties, all plaster compositions should be lighter than the same mixture for brick walls. This is why the plaster sticks to the walls quite well. long time, and such a bathhouse made of foam blocks looks no worse than brick or log baths, and has the same qualities.

A stove is an essential component of any home or cottage. Almost anyone who has at least some construction skills can build it on their own. You just need to take into account one important nuance. The fact is that such work requires the use of specialized materials for furnaces. Or rather, fire-resistant mixtures. Only then will it be possible to ensure that the structure being built will perform its functions and will not become a source of increased danger.

Use when working with stoves, fireplaces, boilers and other buildings that are exposed to high temperatures, simple mortars– unacceptable. This will only lead to the fact that the material used will soon collapse, which will entail not only the failure of the heating element of the house, but also more tragic consequences (fire, penetration of carbon monoxide into living quarters). That’s why special mixtures are produced, for example, such as fireproof plaster or putty.

What are the materials and mixtures for stoves made of?

It is impossible not to notice that modern technologies allow you to create almost any artificial material, who would have the necessary characteristics. But this is not always justified. The fact is that in many cases, natural ingredients turn out to be more effective and cheaper.

Note! The concept of fireproof should be interpreted correctly. By this we mean a material that has the properties of heat resistance and heat resistance, can withstand temperatures higher than the design ones, and also does not react with various aggressive substances (gases).

There are many various materials, which find their application in the construction furnace structures. True, in most cases, they consist of the same thing, clay. This is a rather unique element that perfectly withstands high temperatures. But it also has one drawback. It, by itself, cannot connect two surfaces with each other. Mainly used for work in interior spaces where there is no exposure to an aggressive environment.

The clay undergoes a special process, namely firing. This way it is possible to obtain a very fire-resistant material - fireclay, which serves as the basis for bricks. It is used to create masonry inside the furnace.

Fireclay clay

Note! It is believed that during the use of fireclay bricks, when they are exposed to high temperatures, they further improve their characteristics.

Fireproof mixtures

It is not possible to simply lay a wall of fireclay bricks (blocks). To give it the necessary strength, you need to use a solution that has the same fire-resistant properties. You can make the mixture yourself, or give preference to those sold in the store. In most cases, they do not differ much in their composition. True, it is not always possible to create a truly high-quality solution at home.

When laying or finishing the stove, you must use fire-resistant mixtures

The most common mixture is one that includes:

This solution is used for work if the expected temperature will not be higher than 850-900°C. The components of such a material, in addition to clay, serve to bind surfaces, but do not always have the proper (heat-resistant) properties. This must be taken into account when choosing cement.

To produce mixtures that are sold in stores, a special element is used - mortar. It is clay and crushed fireclay brick. The more it is added to the composition, the higher the possible operating temperature will be. It is important to consider that the seam should be made no more than 5-8 mm. This solution is made right before starting work; it can withstand temperatures up to 16000°C.

Experienced stove makers advise that in order to give the seam an aesthetic appearance, you can add quartz sand to the solution. Then its thickness can reach up to 12 mm.

Mixtures for finishing stoves

Many people leave the stove in its “pristine” state. That is, they specifically use external material finishing so as to give more natural look designs. But still, sometimes you have to use plaster and putty. For what?

1. To give a better appearance. If you do not take care of this initially, the surface of the oven may fall out. general interior. That's when putty is used. The resulting smooth surface is easily covered with paint or special cladding.
2. Safety. Under the influence of temperatures, cracks begin to appear in bricks and seams. This causes smoke to enter the room. Therefore, the structure is strengthened with putty and plaster.

Note! If the oven is already in service for many years, but cracks were noticed, it is not necessary to select a clay mixture. In this case, on help will come heat-resistant putty. With its help, you can seal all the cracks and give a beautiful appearance to almost any stove.

You will also need a heat-resistant primer for ovens. Yes, it is also used to impart enhanced surface properties. It is not advisable to refuse it. It is applied to the putty in the same way as for other finishing works.

A mandatory step in finishing stoves is priming with a special heat-resistant primer.

Fireproof plaster

Plaster is not a fireproof material. To give it these properties, silicates are added to it. Then it can withstand temperatures up to two thousand degrees. Often, so-called liquid glass, which also has another name - silicon glue, is used as such an additive.

There are different proportions of adding this material, but two should be highlighted that can give the desired properties to the plaster:

1. If you add less than 17-16% flint glue to this material, it acquires waterproofing properties.
2. Only if the solution contains more than 20% " liquid glass", we can talk about heat resistance.

Heat-resistant plaster for stoves and fireplaces

In many cases, fireclay dust also finds its application. It is added to industrial mixtures, which only need to be diluted before use. The list of elements used is quite large, and is now expanding even further. All this makes it possible to create universal heat-resistant mixtures. Fire-resistant plaster has proven itself as a starting material.

Heat-resistant putty

There are many heat-resistant mixtures that are used for various works. There are solutions that can be used to putty, perform initial work, just like with plaster, and used for facing work.

The composition of all putties is essentially the same. The main difference is the proportions. The main thing is clay and lime. The following types are distinguished:

• lime-gypsum;
• lime-clay-sand;
• cement-clay-sand.

It is also very convenient that the putty can also be used for external works. It is important to exclude gypsum-based mixtures.

Heat-resistant putty is used to create perfect flat surface for further painting of the stove or fireplace

This material has a lot of positive properties:

1. It is environmentally friendly. When exposed to high temperatures, no toxic substances are released.
2. Very resistant to temperature changes. Cracks form extremely rarely.
3. If the putty was applied correctly, it can last more than forty years.
4. It has high adhesion with various building materials that are used in the construction of stoves.

A stove is a decoration for any home. It’s not for nothing that in the old days they paid so much attention to it. But the creation of this design requires compliance with many rules. This is done in order to eliminate the danger that it may pose. And an important component in this process is the use special materials and fire-resistant mixtures. True, we must not forget that they also need to be applied correctly. Only then can you get the perfect oven.

Fireproof mixtures for furnaces: heat-resistant plaster, putty

The importance of using refractory mixtures for stoves. Composition of heat-resistant materials and features of the use of heat-resistant plaster, putty, primer.

Heat-resistant plaster - finishing the stove

Used for finishing stoves and fireplaces special solution, which includes a special heat-resistant plaster for stoves. It consists of red clay, the coefficient of thermal expansion of which is similar to red stove brick.

This means that the appearance of cracks in masonry and plaster mortar is completely excluded. The mixture also includes refractory fillers and aluminous cement.

Furnace finishing with heat-resistant plaster.

Advantages

This type of finishing material has a number of advantages, among which it is worth noting the following:

• excellent grip on the surface;
• convenience and ease of use;
• fire resistance;
• resistance to cracks;
• environmental friendliness of the material;
• no asbestos fiber.

Basic properties and characteristics of stove plaster

1. Despite the fact that plaster requires a rough surface for good adhesion, there are heat-resistant compounds that are specifically designed for metal. Moreover, the solution, applied in a thin layer of up to 20 mm, can last on the surface almost as long as the structure itself will last, and this is on average about 50 years.
2. Fireproof plaster has high strength and reliability. It can withstand minor impacts and slight surface deformations. The only and most important condition for high-quality application is thorough priming of the surface and the absence of dust on it. (See also the article How to make a primer for putty.)
3. Also, heat-resistant plaster for stoves is used for arranging not only stoves, fireplaces and chimneys, but also for lining boilers.

Mandatory primer at the beginning of work.

Job requirements

• It is recommended to work with fire-resistant plaster at a temperature of 5 degrees above zero. In addition, the brick itself must be kept at the same temperature;
• The water used for work must be at least 15 degrees above zero;
• Dry fire-resistant mixtures should be stored in a warm and dry room in undamaged paper containers.

Preparing the surface

Work on plastering the stove is carried out only after it has been firmly shrinked and dried.

1. We clean the surface from dirt, lime, paint, grease, and clear the masonry seams to a depth of approximately 3 to 5 mm;

We clean the oven and unstitch the seams between the bricks.

1. In order for the solution to remain firmly on the surface, it must be applied to metal mesh(photo) with cell size no more than 10x10 mm;

Attached metal mesh.

1. We securely fasten the mesh to the stove using the double ends of the wire, which are placed in the seams during laying;
2. We release the ends of the wire in a checkerboard pattern at a distance of 100 to 120 mm from each other.

Advice. Plaster should not be applied to painted, plastic, metal or wood surfaces.

Preparing the fireproof mixture

When preparing a refractory mixture, you need to limit yourself to the amount of solution that you can use in no more than 2 hours. Otherwise, the solution will begin to set and will become unsuitable for work. The mixture consumption is 5 kg per 1 m2 when applying a layer 5 mm thick. Our instructions will tell you how to prepare the solution.

Method for preparing the solution:

1. Mix the dry mixture with clean water room temperature, exactly as written in the instructions on the package;
2. Stir until smooth. (There should be no lumps in the mixture);

Mix the mixture thoroughly.

1. Leave for 15 minutes;
2. Mix again and you can get to work.

Operating procedure

The solution is applied to the hot surface of the oven, moistened with water in several stages:

• The first layer should be liquid. We apply it as a primer to prepare the surface for applying other layers.
• The second layer is leveling. It is necessary to give the surface a smoother and more even surface.
• The third layer is the final one. It is good if the solution for it is more liquid than the second layer, but thicker than the first.
• After applying the finishing layer, the surface must be leveled and rubbed.

The work should be done as follows:

1. We apply a layer of the finished solution to the surface, after which we level it;

1. We wait until the first layer is completely dry and apply the second layer. In order for the finish to dry quickly, it is necessary to ensure normal ventilation in the room. The use of heating devices, fans and hair dryers for forced drying is not recommended;

We plaster and apply the second layer.

Conclusion

Finally, a few tips:

• If you are doing renovations old stove, then it is necessary to thoroughly clean the surface of even the most stubborn stains, since they may later appear on the plaster.

This is how you can easily and simply plaster a stove or fireplace with your own hands. country house and save on the services of specialists, whose price for services is not affordable for everyone. We hope that our tips and instructions have helped you and will be useful in the future.

Heat-resistant plaster: video instructions for DIY installation, features of heat-resistant products for stoves, price, photos

Heat-resistant plaster: video instructions for DIY installation, features of heat-resistant products for stoves, price, photos

Types of plaster for fireplaces and stoves

On modern market a huge assortment is presented heating devices And hobs various configurations and designs. Despite this, a person is not ready to give up the natural beauty of fire and its magical warmth, which warms the soul.

Plastered stove with tiled benches

Fireplaces and decorative stoves with exquisite and high-quality finishing They will not only become a decorative item, but will also bring coziness and comfort to the home.

Plaster for stoves and fireplaces must be heat-resistant and also different high level adhesion to the base and not lose its properties from temperature changes, namely heating.

Application decorative plaster for oven

Plastering fireplaces: reasons and benefits

It is recommended to cover heating devices built of brick with a special mixture. Plaster solves several problems and design flaws:

• improving the appearance of the heat source, neatness of the design;
• providing a reliable sealing layer that prevents carbon monoxide from entering through cracks between bricks in case of cracking of the surface;
• ensuring the cleanliness of the structure, namely protection against the appearance harmful microorganisms between the seams.

Composition of mortar mixtures for plastering ovens

Ready-made mixtures for plastering

Before choosing a finishing material, you should remember that it must protect the surface and be resistant to high temperatures. Therefore, it is better to give preference to ready-made formulations that are sold in stores. building materials.

• ORTNER - a specialized mixture for performing decorative finishing stoves and fireplaces.
• Plitonit-SuperFireplaceOgneUpor - a composition that has a high level of heat resistance and ductility, and also promotes integrity outer covering. Characterized by the presence of heat-resistant fibers and additional adhesive ingredients. The building material remains pliable and remains plastic for half an hour.
• Rath Hefnerputs – finishing coat, which retains its integrity when heated to 200 °C. The presence of liquid glass makes the mixture more plastic and resistant to external factors, prevents the occurrence of cracks. Heat-resistant plaster for finishing stoves and fireplaces – “Pechnik” and “Terracotta”.

Making your own mixtures

Decoration of the fireplace - vine molding and decorative plaster

If you decide to save money, you can prepare the material for plastering the surface yourself. The main components are: clay, cement, sand, lime, asbestos. To increase strength, you can add burlap, fiberglass, and natural fabric fibers. Such additives reinforce the plaster layer.

• The simplest and most minimal costs is a combination of clay and sand. To obtain the mixture, mix clay and sifted sand in a ratio of 1:1 and 5% of total mass ground asbestos. The consistency of the mixture should be similar to batter. The application process will be much simpler, and the material will fill even the slightest cracks, if any. This version of plaster has negative characteristics: low strength. To avoid cracks, you should improve the material and add slaked lime.
• An alternative option is the composition of clay and sand in a 1:1 ratio. To increase heat resistance, it is necessary to optimize the plaster with asbestos powder and two parts of high-quality cement.

Applying plaster

Before applying the mixture, you should heat the stove or fireplace and warm it up, regardless of the time of year and the temperature outside the window. It is necessary to remove excess building materials and dust, clean the surface, and prepare it for plastering. High quality coating depends on the execution of the seams between the bricks.

The layer thickness should not exceed 1 cm. The maximum permissible layer of the mixture is 5 cm. When the material dries, the coating must be rubbed using a special grater. This technique helps neutralize even minimal cracks.

Permissible deviations in the quality of plaster

Before using the fireplace or stove, you must make sure that the applied layer of plaster is completely dry.

The selected material for finishing fireplaces and stoves is the key to success in construction work this category. Compliance and adherence to the stages of work on applying the composition will also ensure long-term operation and high-quality results.

Heat-resistant plaster for stoves and fireplaces

For what purposes is plaster for stoves and fireplaces intended, what varieties does it come in, what criteria should be used to choose, and also how to prepare plaster mixture on one's own.

Heat-resistant plaster for stoves - the ideal solution

Surely you are already thinking about how to improve your existing or only planned stove or fireplace. So, the most the best option Covering the surface of the stove with plaster is considered. But there are many similar materials, and you need to choose the one that will bring satisfaction in the results of the work. Do you agree? I think yes. No one wants to spend time and money and see something completely different from what they expected.

That's why I decided to devote my article to just this finishing material, as heat-resistant plaster for stoves. She has a number distinctive features, which include:

• works well on many types of surfaces, including smooth ones;
• does not have thermal conductivity;
• holds securely even on slightly deformed surfaces;
• a coating made of this material can withstand even mechanical impact small force, provided that the application technology is followed;
• In case of fire, it can contain the fire for a certain period of time.

Separately, I would like to say about the properties of heat-resistant plaster.

1. doesn't let through carbon monoxide in case of cracking of masonry material and prevents the appearance of insects and bacteria in it;
2. does not contribute to the appearance of a bad odor when heating a stove or fireplace due to the fact that the smooth surface of the heat-resistant mixture does not allow dust to settle;
3. To improve the appearance, heat-resistant plaster can be painted or veneered.

Nowadays, you can purchase heat-resistant mixtures without difficulty, just by contacting a specialized store. However, if you wish, you can independently prepare a solution with a composition that is no worse. All recipes are usually similar, but it is worth taking into account the quality of the clay, its type, brand of cement, water temperature and much more.

Ready-made mixtures have a number of advantages over homemade ones, in my opinion:

• high degree of plasticity
• ease of use and ease of distribution over the surface
• high expansion coefficient, which prevents cracking
• maintain good appearance for a long time
• resistance to relatively low temperatures
• relatively inexpensive price
• high resistance to high temperatures.

On the modern building materials market you can find different mixtures, some of which have already gained sufficient popularity. These include:

Plitonit - SuperFireUpor - contains heat-resistant fibers and adhesive components. Capable of withstanding high temperatures and does not crack

Ortner – there are three types:

• for tiled construction;
• modelable (takes on a textured surface on which a drawing can subsequently be applied);
• smooth (if you then want to paint the stove or fireplace).

RathHefnerputs – used in the role finishing plaster, does not crack and can withstand temperatures up to 200 degrees.

Terracotta – composition: clay, fireclay dust, heat-resistant binding additives. It is used both for stoves and fireplaces made of brick: (fireclay or ceramic). Withstands temperatures up to 200 degrees.

Stove maker - lime, sand, gypsum, asbestos, cement, clay and mineral additives. The disadvantage is that it contains asbestos, but it can withstand up to 600 degrees.

Heat-resistant plaster can be divided into two types:

1. Simple - the composition includes two components: clay and sand.
2. Complex – contains three or more ingredients.

• Clay + sand + asbestos
• The same + lime;
• Sand, clay, asbestos + cement;
• Sand, lime, gypsum and fiberglass.

When preparing the mixture, just keep in mind that asbestos releases harmful substances, so it is better to add fibrous reinforcing additives to the heat-resistant plaster of stoves. Such as fiberglass.

And the technology for preparing the mixture with your own hands is simple. For a simple mixture, sift the sand, mix it with clay, pour it into a container, add water and stir with a mixer until creamy.

The proportions of the composition depend on the fat content of the clay. If its fat content is high, add 3-4 parts of sand to one part of clay. I understand that not all of you are experts in this matter, so I will share how to determine the fat content of clay. It won't take much effort or time at all:

• put some clay in a bucket
• fill with water
• Stir at the same time until you get the consistency of sour cream.
• scoop up a little of the resulting solution with a plate
• If the clay covers the surface of the board by 1 mm, then it is non-greasy; if it is a thicker layer, it is oily.

As for complex solutions, I can offer several simple recipes:

1. Clay, lime – 1 share each; sand – 2 shares; reinforcing additive – 1/10 share. Sift everything, mix dry, add water and stir until it becomes sour cream.
2. Clay - 1, sand - 2, cement grade 300 or more -1, reinforcing additive - 1/10. Also sift everything. Mix clay and sand, add water and stir until a thick dough forms. Add cement, reinforcing additive, mix and fill with water until the mixture becomes creamy.
3. Gypsum - 1 share, lime - 2, sand - 1, reinforcing additive - 2/10 shares. Sift, mix sand, lime and additive, add water and stir until a thick dough forms. Add lime plaster and water. Bring to a creamy state. It is important to remember that plaster hardens quickly. Therefore, do not prepare a lot of solution at once, as it needs to be worked out within 5-6 minutes.

In any case, no matter what you decide: to purchase a ready-made composition or to make it yourself, know that working with such plaster should be done when temperature conditions from 5 degrees above zero. Moreover, the brick must be kept at the same temperature. The water you plan to use for work must be at least 15 degrees above zero. Fireproof dry mixtures should be stored in a warm and dry room in paper containers without damage.

Use the tips given and your work will be fruitful and of high quality.

Heat-resistant plaster for stoves

Heat-resistant plaster. What is its composition and what properties does it have? Its features and characteristics. Ready-made mixtures.

Last year we fulfilled a long-time dream and built a bathhouse at our dacha. After surviving one Ural winter, the cinder block began to crumble, which was expected and quite logical.

We were faced with the question of protecting the walls of our structure from external weather influences. The choice was between covering the house with siding or plastering it with plaster, and was made in favor of the latter, since our calculations showed that it was cheaper. There are also inexpensive siding panels, but you should not forget about the fittings, which significantly round up the amount.

Let's start plastering. The first thing you need to do is install beacons on the walls. We attached them to the rotband cakes, retreating 20-30 cm from the corner and making the vertical distances between the beacons about 40 cm.

The width between the beacons depends on the size of the rule that will be used to level the plaster; our width is about 120-140 cm.

Beacons are installed according to level, this is the most important condition and this will allow us to get perfect smooth walls and right angles at the output.

Next, prepare a cement-sand mortar, keeping the proportions 1:3 (1 part cement (M400), 3 parts river sand). Add water little by little, the solution should be viscous, liquid will drain, and too thick will fall off. To increase the viscosity of the solution, we used people's council and added dishwashing detergent to the composition (1 capful of detergent per 150 liter concrete mixer). The resulting solution is thrown onto the wall with a trowel and straightened from the bottom up along the beacons.

Here, of course, a certain skill is desirable; a beginner will definitely need an assistant.

A flat board was useful to form beautiful, clear corners. It should be secured (nailed or spacers installed) along the corner.

Preliminary plastering is complete.

In hot weather, you must remember to spray the walls with water to avoid cracking of the material. Follow the link for a description of beacon plaster.

Our consumption at this stage was 5 bags of cement per bathhouse with an area of ​​50 sq.m. The consumption depends on the layer of plaster; our layer was about 2 cm.

Before finishing plastering, beacons should be removed from the walls. If you leave them, then under the influence of precipitation, rust may appear on the walls. For the sake of economy, we also did the final plastering with a cement-sand mortar, with the obligatory sifting of the sand through a fine-mesh sieve. We took the same proportions (1:3), but diluted it not with water, but with milk of lime. Lime acts as a plasticizer, improving the properties of the finished solution. Lime milk is prepared from quicklime with water (proportions 1:9).
The finishing plaster is applied with a trowel on a grater and in a circular, as if rubbing, motion, the mixture is applied to the wall moistened with water.

Angles are derived using the same method described above.

The finished result looks like this:

Our cement consumption for finishing plaster was 2.5 bags (grade M400). The last photo shows defects from small pebbles (the sand was poorly sifted). To eliminate them, before painting, you can go over the walls with any final plaster for exterior work, the consumption will be small, and the appearance will be much better.

Bathhouse, sauna [We build with our own hands] Nikitko Ivan

Plastering and painting

Plastering and painting

Oddly enough, oil paint- also an acceptable material for the interior cladding of a bathhouse (however, only in the dressing room and washing compartment and only if you have brick walls).

Let's talk a little more about plastering brick walls in the locker room and washing compartment. First, you should clear the masonry seams by 1.5–2 cm. Then moisten the surface.

The plastering process itself consists of three stages: spraying, priming, covering.

It is best to apply the plaster using beacons positioned at such a pitch that it is possible to level the solution between them using a rule. Remember: the thickness of the beacons is certainly equal to the thickness of the plaster layer (without covering).

If it's dry outside hot weather, it makes sense to periodically moisten the newly applied plaster, otherwise it will dry faster than intended technological process, and will immediately crack.

If defects suddenly appear, such as an incomprehensible roughness or mortar drips, they can be immediately cleaned using the end of a dry tree or a scraper.

From the book Loggias and Balconies author Korshever Natalya Gavrilovna

Glass painting For installation of stained glass windows on glazed balcony or loggias require painted glass. Glass cut to size is thoroughly washed and degreased. The selected drawing is made on a sheet of paper in full size. The contours of the drawing are transferred to glass

From the book Complete renovation apartments. How can a woman cope with renovations? author Shtukina Lyudmila Vasilievna

Plastering walls Question. In what cases is it necessary to carry out plastering work? If the unevenness of the wall exceeds 5 mm, then there is a need for plastering work. Or, for example, if it is vertical installed doors protrude significantly beyond the plane

From the book Natural cosmetics: do-it-yourself soaps and masks, creams and tonics without chemicals author Yankovskaya Elena

Coloring with henna Pour the henna from the bag into a bowl (for short hair you will need 50 g of henna, for long ones - 200 g) and pour boiling water over it, stir thoroughly so that there are no lumps. In order to get very rich color, you can add a few drops to the resulting mixture

From the book Home handyman author Onishchenko Vladimir

Plastering broken areas Broken areas of plaster and especially its edges should be thoroughly moistened with water. The better the edges of the old plaster are wetted, the more firmly the applied solution adheres to them and the more monolithic the plaster becomes. In case of insufficient wetting

From the book Exterior finishing country house and dachas. Siding, stone, plaster author Zhmakin Maxim Sergeevich

Plastering slopes and caps Before plastering window slopes and the plugs need to be caulked (fill the groove between the wall and the window or door frame) and prepare surfaces (if required) for applying thick plaster to them

From the book Wood Burning [Techniques, techniques, products] author Podolsky Yuri Fedorovich

Plastering internal slopes Plastering the upper slopes begins with hanging rules strictly horizontally on the upper parts of the slopes. Having plastered the top of the slopes, the rules are hung strictly vertically on the sides of the slopes and plastered

From the book Master's Handbook painting works author Nikolaev Oleg Konstantinovich

Plastering caps Caps are plastered in the same way as slopes. The solution is leveled with a spoon, at the ends of which two cuts are made. The cutouts are necessary in order to leave gaps between the boxes and the plaster. The dimensions of the gaps are the same as on the slopes. If

From the book Practical summer shower and a toilet in the country author Dobrova Elena Vladimirovna

From the book All about tiles [Do-it-yourself installation] author Nikitko Ivan

From the book Building a house quickly and cheaply author Simonov Evgeniy Vitalievich

Plastering the surface for painting The highest quality layer of paint is obtained if it is applied to thoroughly dried plaster. In this regard, when finishing premises of any type - wooden, concrete, brick or block - walls and ceilings,

As soon as a new stove is installed in the bathhouse, or renovation work on its surface, any bathhouse attendant asks one question: “How to plaster a stove”?

Under the influence of heat, moisture, and expanding stones and bricks when heated, cracks appear on the stove. A small web of cracks gradually turns into solid holes. Therefore, repairing a stove in a bathhouse is common.

There is no need to wait for the moment when the crack turns into a hole. It's time to get down to business right away. They will help you solve the problem of furnace repair. plaster solutions. The main purpose of these solutions is to give the queen stove its original appearance.

The finishing components for furnaces continue to be: clay, sand, lime, cement, asbestos. These are binding materials, and their mixture with water is called a solution.

The most important purpose of astringent solutions is to bind together masonry ovens. Required condition to obtain a high-quality solution - this is good quality source materials.

Therefore, sand, cement and asbestos must be sifted through a fine sieve before starting work. The clay is pre-soaked in water and filtered through cheesecloth, and then thoroughly mixed until smooth. Clean, dry clay will reduce the strength of the mortar.

An important point when preparing solutions for plastering stoves is the correct proportions. The most important thing is the ratio of clay and sand; the ratio is one part clay to two parts sand. The components are mixed dry (with the exception of clay), and filled with clay or lime water. The more water you add, the thinner the solution will be, so you need to add water carefully, in small portions.

There are many types of solutions, I will give recipes for the most popular and simple ones.

Recipes for plaster solutions

• For one part of clay, take two parts of sand and a tenth of asbestos (0.1 part).
• One part clay - two parts sand, one part lime and a tenth asbestos.
• One part clay - two parts sand, one part cement and a tenth asbestos.

When dry, a plaster solution containing cement will dark color, so the furnace repair will not end there. The stove will need to be whitewashed.

The solution with lime and asbestos will be white; if, when applied to the stove, it is well leveled, or as experts say: “rub it,” then whitewashing the stove will not be required.

I would like to say a few words about the shelf life of solutions; it is limited for any composition. A solution containing cement is only good for an hour. A solution containing asbestos, or simply gypsum, is good for only 5 minutes. Therefore, you need to work with it very quickly, and if you are new to this business, then I do not recommend using such a plaster solution.

The tool you will need for the job

For work you will need gloves, a mixing container, and a construction spatula. Astringent materials do not have a positive effect on the condition of our skin, so it is better to work with gloves.

The mixing container should be free of rust, sharp edges, and you should not feel sorry for it. 🙂 The fact is that plaster solutions are washed off quite poorly.

Choose a spatula for work at your discretion. For example, it is more convenient for me to work with a medium-sized spatula.

Before you start filling cracks, old plaster be sure to delete. Moisten the prepared area with plenty of water, this is necessary for better adhesion of the solution to the surface.

Plastering work is carried out on a cold stove, preferably on a fine, warm day. After carrying out the work, open all the doors in the bathhouse wide open, let the queen-stove dry out properly.

As my mother told me: “The eyes are afraid, but the hands are doing.” Remember main principle in this work it’s like: “If you want to do something well, do it yourself”!